Oh hello, Spain

Seeing Madrid in style... without breaking the bank

2016-05-23T14:36:00.004+02:00

It's been a long time since I've devoured a sandwich on a street corner in the interest of saving a few euros. The idea of a shared dorm fills me with dread. It's safe to say that as I've grown up, my travel priorities have changed. I'm not always searching for the cheapest deal; convenience and ease now have a big part to play in travel planning. You can definitely have fun on a budget, but some compromises need to be made along the way: and style is usually one of them. Street corner sandwiches aren't usually the chicest of snacks.

When WeSwap challenged me to spend £50 on a day in Madrid, my focus wasn't purely on stringing out every last cent in order to maximise the money. I live in one of Western Europe's cheapest capitals, so it wouldn't be difficult. But seeing Madrid in style without scrimping? Now that's more of a challenge.

Thinking of the sort of places I love to take my friends and family who visit, I planned a day of culture, cool hangouts and copas. But how far would my £50 stretch? First, I converted my currency to euros using WeSwap's handy app. Opting for the instant exchange,* I received €62. Now to spend it...

Morning: Getting cultural on a budget

If you only see one art gallery while you're in Madrid, make it the Thyssen. The least famous of the Golden Triangle (also comprised of the Prado and the Reina Sofía), the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza is a compact treasure housing works spanning the centuries. If you fancy seeing some Dutch masters, you'll find them here. If contemporary American's more your thing, check out the Chagall and Lichtenstein. There's a smattering of Spanish artists too, including works by Dalí and Picasso. A visit to the Thyseen is like a one-stop whirl through the decades of art history - but unlike the Prado and the Reina Sofia, its free opening hours are limited (12-4pm on Monday), so I handed over €12 for a ticket.

Centro Centro: A stunning building, inside and out

Post-Thyssen and feeling culturally virtuous, I popped into Centro Centro, the impressive exhibition space located in the Palacio de Cibeles. Worth a visit if only to marvel at the architecture, Centro Centro hosts a variety of rotating exhibitions - and entry is free. If you've had your fill of culture, there's a rooftop bar and restaurant with great views of Cibeles fountain.

Running total: €12

Lunch: Stylish sandwiches

In need of a quick refuel before an active afternoon, I headed to cool cafe Harina. A sleek white space known for its light lunches and baked goods, Harina's a handy spot for visitors to nearby Retiro Park. If the weather's being kind, make the most of the outdoor terrace in the shade of the Puerta de Alcalá, one of the city's two remaining gates. At Harina, I tucked into a multi-grain baguette with tuna and roasted peppers, washed down with a homemade spearmint lemonade.

Running total: €21.50

Afternoon: Retiro rowing and sundowners with a view

Before getting our row on in the Retiro

Madrid may not be the greenest city, but it's easy to forget once you step into Retiro Park. The capital's prettiest park once belonged to the royal family, but nowadays it's open to the public and mixes formal gardens with wilder wooded areas, a boating lake and even exhibition spaces. It's also traditional to take a post-lunch paseo in the Retiro, but if you're feeling more active, you can rent a rowing boat for laps of the lake. Post-rowing, check out the Palacio de Cristal for temporary exhibitions in association with the Reina Sofía.

In need of some refreshments and a rest, I headed to the Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes. I've tried a fair few rooftop bars in Madrid, but this is the terrace I always return to. With its almost 360 DEGREE views of the city and out to the mountains beyond, plus decently-priced drinks, it's a winner for some relaxed sunset sipping. The only downside is the entry fee: €4 per person. Still, the wine's a relative snip at €4 per glass, so sit back and watch the sun go down over Madrid.

View towards Gran Via from the Bellas Artes roof terrace

Running total: €37.50

Evening: Dinner at La Pescadería

When dinner time rolled around, I still had more than a few cents to spend on dinner, so I made my way to Malasana. A winning formula of hip hangout, fantastic food and surprisingly good service add up to make La Pescadería my favourite restaurant in Madrid. Their tapas are like other bars' raciones, so 4 between 2 is more than enough. My challenge partner and I shared cod fritters, baby squid, a goat's cheese and pumpkin salad and the best patatas bravas in Madrid, washed down with a glass of wine. Once the bill was paid, I even had a few euros left for la penultima at a nearby bar.

Running total: €61.40

Challenge completed: I'd had a culture-packed, fun day in Madrid without even worrying about my budget. Turns out staying stylish in the city isn't so costly after all...

It's easy to pay bills with the WeSwap card

This post is sponsored by WeSwap as part of the #WeSwap50poundchallenge. WeSwap offers a social currency exchange with better rates than the banks. Sign up here or download their app to get started.
*Rates are always competitive, but vary depending on how quickly you need your money. 3 day and 7 day options also available.

5 things I'll never understand about living in Spain

2016-05-02T20:21:00.003+02:00

I've now lived in Spain for five years. There was my first stint in Alcalá de Guadaira back in 2004–5, a few months in Seville in 2008, a year in Madrid from 2009–10, and my current three-year stretch. On some levels, it feels like home. It's where I spend the vast majority of my time, where I work, pay my rent and tax. It's also where part of my heart is. But even after five years living in two different regions, do I understand everything about living in this incredible country? As they say in my native Lancashire, do I heck.

5 things I'll never understand about living in Spain

1) The amount of bureaucracy

Spain takes paperwork to a whole new level. From compulsory tax returns to admin that can only be done in your bank branch, there's a whole lot of bureaucracy even a native Spaniard has to deal with. Throw in your expat status and the form-filling, officials to speak to and inevitable misunderstandings triple. Why does Spain love admin so much? Well, I once heard that the number of bureaucrats had to do with creating employment. So rather than having one form to fill in and one official to talk to, you have several. I'm not sure whether I believe it, but it's a convenient theory to explain away the dreaded papeleo. Come on Spain, let's streamline.

2) The toilets

Many a guiri blogger has already expounded the horrors of Spanish servicios. Restaurant and public bathrooms are almost always dirty, with wet floors and a distinct lack of paper or soap. Find both of those two commodities and you feel like you've hit the jackpot, no matter how skanky the surroundings. And don't get me started on the amount of pee on the ladies' toilet seats, or the number of women who don't wash their hands on exiting the bathroom. Spanish homes may be immaculate; Spain may be the number one consumer of bleach in the world, but when it comes to public toilets, the characeristic cleanliness goes out of the window.

3) The obsession over what you can eat and when

Paella: Not to be eaten in the evenings

Now I may have adopted the maxim that rice is for lunchtime, but I'm all for freedom of foodie choice. In England, anything goes. Here you'd never eat anything legume-based in the evening, street snacking is a no-no that will earn you a few frowns, and choosing a drink is a minefield according to the time of day. Take this recent example. I was with a close friend, waiting to pick someone up from the train station. It was 2pm, I wanted my lunch, but we had to wait until the other friend joined us. 'What do you want to drink?' she asked. I thought, 'Nothing, I am absolutely starving and would really like my lunch right about now'. I said, 'I don't know, maybe a juice?' 'A JUICE?? What are you going to have a juice NOW for?' was the incredulous reply. Well, maybe because I don't like fizzy drinks, I've already had a coffee and if I have wine on an empty stomach I'll get drunk. I had no idea there was a time window for juice consumption, but apparently there is. Live and let live, people. I don't judge you for thinking a tuna sandwich is a breakfast food. Oh OK, maybe I do. Just a little bit.

4) Unnecessary greetings

In an increasingly online age, it's easy to feel like we're losing human contact. So although I think it's charming that in small shops in Spain, customers greet everyone present with a general 'Buenos dias', and I'm on board with the 'lift hello' when taking an elevator in a shared office building, there are some situations where it's just not necessary to saludar. Keeping yourself to yourself in a gym changing room is preferable: greeting strangers in the buff is just plain awkward, in my humble opinion. Nor do I need colleagues to say 'Hola' or 'Hasta luego' to me in the office bathroom, particularly when this is the only interaction we ever have.

5) How difficult it is to make Spanish friends

I may have been here five years, but I can count the number of close Spanish friends I have on one hand. And I don't even need all my fingers. I know it's not just me: plenty of expat acquaintances have the same problem. But if I ever tell this to a Spanish person, they look at me with confused disbelief. Now Spaniards are very friendly, but there's a difference between being friendly and being friends. I'll admit that the problem is worse in big cities: one of my friends lives in a medium-size town in Andalucia and has far more Spanish friends than I do in Madrid, But still, it's often the case that Spanish people move around the country less than Brits – they usually attend their closest university, for example – and so maintain the same group of friends they've known since school. When people do change cities for work reasons, they often return to their pueblo at the weekend. I've found most people to be very welcoming and hospitable, and have many times hoped things will translate into the foundations of a friendship. Of all the things I don't understand about Spain, this is the one I'd most like to crack.

Do you agree? Is there anything else you don't understand about living in Spain?

Plane-train-Spain: Sights, bites & insights from my Spanish roadtrip

2016-04-10T20:55:00.001+02:00

One thing I discovered: it gets cloudy in Canarias too

In February, I visited nine out of 17 regions of Spain. Madness for 4 weeks, but it really reminded me how diverse Spain is. Each autonomous region has its own government, with the possibility to modify certain centrally-set laws, and the ability to introduce others. Several also have their own regional language, and they all have a strong identity which distinguishes them from each other. A short distance can mean a lot in Spain, but the most marked differences were when I visited 2 or 3 far-flung regions in one week. The cosmopolitan whirl of Barcelona contrasted sharply with the slower pace and wetter climate of Galicia: as did the average price for a meal.

Four weeks on the road allowed me to fuse business and pleasure, and as well as working I had time to take in a few sights and try out a few local dishes.

Sights

My visit to Gran Canaria may have conicided with the worst weather in the Canary Islands for the past couple of years, but this did little to detract from the beauty of Playa de las Canteras (above). Located in the capital, Las Palmas, the bay is protected from big waves by a sandbank, making it a calm stretch of sea. With a sweep of sand stretching just over 3km, Playa de las Canteras is vast. No doubt it heaves with suncreamed bodies in the summer months, but on damp February days it was almost deserted.

Inside La Sagrada Familia

In Barcelona, the Sagrada Familia was a rather more crowded sight. I first visited Gaudí's masterpiece in the making aged 21, and my return 10 years later saw plenty of progress to the interior in particular. The sense of height inside is astounding, and the level of intricacy and detail in the architecture means you could marvel at the craftmanship for hours. Unfortunately we didn't have hours: if you're booking a ticket, I'd recommend you don't opt for the last slot as you only have an hour to enjoy your visit.In addition, what you can see on with a standard ticket is now limited: last time I'd been able to climb the towers, but the €14 basic admission now excludes this. A complete visit will now set you back €29. This disappointment aside, it was well worth checking up on the builders' progress a decade on.

Bites

Solo dining can be dull. Not so in Alicante, however. I dropped into cosy wine bar Alioli for a pre-dinner drink and came out hours later with a bunch of new friends and a tummyful of tapas. The best part was that my new friends invited me to most of the drinks. So if you're looking for a vino and a tapa in Alicante, check out Alioli. I challenge you to leave after just one drink.

In Gran Canaria, our hosts shunned the tourist traps and took us to cute cantina La Bikina. Right by the beach, this little spot serves up fusion food, including Mexican and Thai. After a few weeks chowing down on menú del día and deep-fried Spanish grub, their veggie take on Pad Thai went down a treat. We also had the chance to try some more typical Canarian cuisine such as papas negras (black potatoes) served with 2 types of mojo (sauce), and grilled smoked cheese sprinkled with herbs. Dessert was a hit too: creamy polvito uruguayo is very popular in Gran Canaria, and if you've got a sweet tooth you'll love this confection of crumbled biscuit, cream and dulce de leche.

Papas negras: a typical dish from the Canary Islands

What was on offer varied from region to region. Being winter, there were more stews and hearty dishes on the menu, particularly in the centre and north. These menus were also the most meat-heavy, while on the coast and down south, there was plenty more fish on offer. Alicante, Barcelona, Valencia and Murcia also boast lots of rice dishes, while Sevilla has a sgood choice of tapas.

Insights

The limited time available on a business trip may not allow for deep reflection, but region-hopping to certainly highlights superficial differences between Spain's comunidades autónomas. Beyond the landscape, one thing that varies wildly is price: a menú del día costs anywhere between €9 and €13 in the areas I visited, but the biggest difference is after dark. Dinner for one rounded the €20 mark in Alicante, Barcelona and Gran Canaria, while I dined out on the cheap in Murcia and Sevilla. Food at transport termini is almost universally expensive; only Bilbao airport could offer me a reasonably-priced coffee and sandwich. Taxi fares also differ from region to region: the 20-minute ride from Gran Canaria airport set me back an eye-watering €40, while journeys in Andalucía and the Comunidad Valenciana were much more reasonable.

Valencia's Estacio del Nord train station

The welcome from hoteliers and waiters varied too: solo travellers don't always get the most effusive of greetings (looking at you, Baleares), but in general everyone was polite and amiable. Everything's a bit more reserved in the heartlands of Madrid and Valladolid, but on the coast and in the south, the friendliness scale shot up. It's not just the professional reaction that you notice either, it's how the locals respond to you. Let's just say they don't get many blonde business travellers in Playa de las Canteras – I was breakfasting with the socks & sandals brigade before heading off to deliver a day's training.

In terms of local languages, I heard no Euskera or Galego spoken in the cities; while Catalan was very much in evidence in Barcelona. In Alicante, my ear didn't tune into any Valenciano, and in Valencia itself I heard very little. I imagine that outside the cities, regional languages remain more widely spoken. The regional differences are still very much in evidence though, in terms of the local character, what's on the menu and the topography of the areas. This taster tour has whetted my appetite to return to areas of the country I know less, such as the north, to see more of what Spain has to offer.

Have you travelled around Spain? Do you have any sights, best bites and insights to share?

A month on the road: Plane-Train-Spain

2016-02-29T13:10:00.000+01:00

One month. One country, nine autonomous regions, 11 cities. During an intense few weeks travelling around Spain for work, it's fair to say that I woke up more than once wondering where I was. Covering thousands of miles by plane, train and car in the space of four weeks, early starts and late nights became the norm.

But I'm not complaining: the chance to get to know new places, try new foods and meet new people is always welcome. Although I'd visited most cities previously, Vigo and Las Palmas were new to me - in fact, I'd never set foot in the Canary Islands before. I did manage to visit during the most inclement weather they've had in the past couple of years (think cold winds and lashing rain falling diagonally), but it did nothing to dampen the fun. Yes, fun: the nights of room service and my head hitting the pillow by 10pm were counteracted with lots of laughs and plenty of long lunches (hey, it's Spain).

As I travelled around the country, I posted photos on Instagram using the hashtag #planetrainspain. In my next post, I'll be detailing some of the highlights of my month on the road (rails?), but for now, check out the maths that made up February 2016.

2015 in Travel: The highs... and lows

2015-12-31T16:46:00.000+01:00

Despite jaunts to Portugal, France, Croatia and Slovenia, my 2015 travel was mostly in Spain (for a change). I saw in a new year of travel with a work conference Zaragoza, and my final destination of 2015 was another business trip to Murcia. There was plenty of travel for pleasure, though, with long weekends in the Basque Country and Extremadura, and a week touring the Costa Brava on two wheels.

So what were my 2015 travel highs... and lows?

Favourite new destination

I have boomerang tendencies when it comes to travel, bouncing back to destinations I've loved. So in 2015 I tried to branch out, ticking off a few 'new' towns and cities – including Girona, Baiona, San Sebastián and Cáceres – plus a previously unvisited country, Croatia. When it comes to picking a favourite, I was torn between the pretty cities of Girona and San Sebastián. Both beautiful, compact, with buzzing food scenes and lively bars, San Sebastián ultimately swung it thanks to the sandy sweep of La Concha beach. Given its lack of stand-out museums and tourist attractions, San Sebastian is all about the food and drink: the bars in the old town and seafront Gros come alive at night, when pintxos washed down with txacoli steal the show. With nothing more pressing to do than eat, promenade and party, San Sebastián is a fun, fuss-free weekend break destination.

Stunning San Sebastian: My favourite destination of 2016

Most visited destination

This will come as no surprise to regular readers, but I clocked up 5 visits to Barcelona this year. With its cosmopolitan charm, great restaurants and firm grasp on tradition, I'm a sucker for the Catalan capital. I particularly enjoyed learning more about Catalan cuisine with Devour Barcelona, and finally witnessing castellers assemble a human tower during September's Festes de la Mercè. Watching a correfoc (fire run) from the sidelines is one experience I'd be happy not to repeat, though: the flying sparks and booming firecrackers just centimetres away were a bit too much for me.

Castellers in Barcelona (and anonymous selfie snapper)

Favourite hotel

In terms of Instagram-worthy images and a stunning setting, it would hands-down have to be the Parador in Baiona. But when comfort, service and food are thrown into the mix, there's no contest: Hotel Sa Punta in Platja de Pals takes the title. From a room upgrade to friendly but professional service, a gorgeous freshwater pool with spa jets, big balconies and a tranquil location, the scene was set for serious relaxation. My expectations of hotel restaurants are generally low: often overpriced and uninspiring, I tend to avoid them. But the Sa Punta restaurant is no standard hotel dining room: it pre-dates the hotel itself and attracts diners from around Catalunya. And you can see why. With three-course menus drawing on the best of local produce and combining delicious flavours with perfect presentation, it's a real treat. Service is attentive yet discreet, and the wine choices were spot on. I'd return in a heartbeat.

Biggest surprise hit

The first time I visited Palma de Mallorca as a teen, I was so ill I ended up in hospital the following day. With clouded memories, I was unsure what to expect from my second trip years later - but I was blown away. Chic and international with a very Spanish feel, Palma is packed with impressive architecture, interesting sights and top-notch bars and restaurants. I felt so at home there, I didn't want to leave. Watch this space for a return visit in 2016.

Palma de Mallorca: Picture perfect

Best trip

Sometimes the best trips are the ones that push you out of your comfort zone, that challenge you, show you something new – and allow you to relax. In 2014 it was my yoga and pilates holiday in Morocco, in 2015 it was cycling around Catalunya. Thanks to Headwater Holidays, a friend and I cycled through the gorgeous (and thankfully mostly flat) countryside on and around the Costa Brava. Starting in seaside Calella de Palafrugell, we visited medieval hill-town Pals before arriving in Platja de Pals. The next few days took us to Begur and La Bisbal d'Empordà, before heading back to Calella via pretty Peratallada. Despite the August heat, the cycling was achievable and a unique way of seeing areas of the country that would doubtless lose some of their charm from a car window. With time to chill out, enjoy our hotels' pools or the beach and sample some local cuisine, this was a pretty perfect holiday. You can read more about it here.

A sample of the Catalan countryside I cycled through

Most disappointing destination

After years of hearing rave reports, I couldn't wait to visit Croatia. Italianate Istria in the north west may not have been my first choice of destination, but I was happy when circumstances took me there for an eight-day holiday. Eager to explore coastal Rovinj and Rabac and the hilltop 'truffle town' of Motovun, the reality turned out to be rather different than expected. With accommodation issues, countless incidents with unhelpful locals and a food poisoning incident, Croatia failed to wow us. For a holiday that was supposed to be relaxing, we spent far too much time dealing with local-induced stress and eating homemade cheese sandwiches. It's a long story that will be told soon, but suffice to say I've never been so keen to leave a country. So keen, my friend and I cut our trip short by a day and retreated over the border to Slovenia, a country so amiable it even has 'love' in its name. Maybe we were unlucky, or maybe the more-visited areas around Split, Zadar and the islands would have made for a more successful trip, but I'm not in an immediate hurry to find out.

Rovinj, Croatia: Pretty (disappointing)

Worst journey

After 48 hours in Paris, I hoped for a smooth journey back to Madrid so I'd be fresh and ready for work the following morning. No such luck. There was a 6 hour delay at Charles de Gaulle, during which fellow passengers got increasingly agitated about circumstances beyond their control and obsessively photographed the boarding gate, as though this would help in some way. Conspiracy theories that we were not in fact going to get back to Madrid that night spread like wildfire, so I retreated with a book. Yes, I got home in the small hours of the morning and had to shell out for a taxi from the airport, but I claimed compensation through EasyJet and received the €250 I was entitled to for a delay of over 4 hours within the EU. Not such a bad ending.

What were your 2015 travel highs and lows? Do you have any 2016 travel plans?

Festive fun in Madrid: Christmas 2015

2015-12-12T11:10:00.000+01:00

Last year's Christmas post proved pretty popular, so here's an updated version for those who'll be in Madrid over the 2015 festive season. In Spain, the holidays last longer than many other European countries, culminating in the traditional present-exchanging on 6 January, or Three Kings Day. If you're around on the 5th, be sure to check out the Cabalgata de Reyes (parade) which runs down Paseo de la Castellana – but only if you don't mind the crowds!

What else can you do in Madrid during the lead-up to Christmas?

Seeing the Christmas lights

Christmas lights seen from the Navibus. Photos from my Instagram feed

Madrid puts on a good show in the evening (until the oddly early hour of 11pm). All around the centre, streets are illuminated with glitzy lights, some of which were dreamed up by top Spanish designers. Most of the conical Christmas trees which pepper the city's plazas are unfortunately sponsored, with the names of multinational companies festooned in lights, but the huge gold tree in Puerta del Sol is sponsorship-free. Sol looks particularly good at Christmas, and Gran Vía and Cibeles to the Puerta de Alcalá are also festively lit. If you want to get a good look at the city's best displays, take the Navibus from Plaza Colón (opposite Calle Serrano 30); an after-dark tour of the city's Christmas lights. Costing €2 for adults and €1.50 for children (under 7s go free), the trip on an open-top bus runs daily from 6–11pm until 6 January. The route takes in Puerta de Alcalá, Cibeles, Calle Alcalá, Gran Vía up to Santo Domingo where it doubles back and follows the same trail in reverse, adding in some of barrio Salamanca on the return journey. The tour lasts about 40 minutes and is fun for kids of all ages.

Christmas shopping: Markets, pop-ups & local brands

If high-street Christmas shopping isn't for you, you might want to check out some of the many markets and pop-up stores on offer in Madrid this month. There's a very comprehensive list (in Spanish) over on Madrid Diferente, but a few highlights include the Mercado de Motores (12 & 13 December) and the Mercadillo del Gato from 11 December–2 January with vintage goods, jewellery, cosmetics, artisanal products and more.

The Hovse: Pretty but pricey

On the pop-up front, the much-hyped (and stupidly-named) The Hovse is back for another year. Cute and very Instagram-worthy it may be, but unless you spend triple-figures on Christmas presents, it's best for a browse, a drink and a snack from Olivia te Cuida's pop-up area. All the independently-designed goods are beautifully presented, but their price tags are not within reach for your average mil eurista. If you're looking for similar gift items, clothes and jewellery at a more reasonable price, try boutiques La Intrusa and Nest instead. Nest also sells Christmas cards.

More traditional outdoor markets selling artisanal goods, food and jewellery among other gift items can be found around Plaza Mayor, near the Palace and in Plaza Santo Domingo.

If you're more of an online shopper, check out some homegrown brands such as jewellery label Tartesia (25% off with the code TARTESIAFRIEND) and the cute Mr Wonderful.

Spanish-made Tartesia jewellery

Ice skating

Although you can glide on the ice year-round at Palacio de Hielo, a few outdoor ice rinks pop up in Madrid during winter. They're usually not quite the grand rinks in prime locations that London and New York have to offer, but they're fun for a quick spin, especially for kids. This year however, there's a new offering that could challenge other cities: the Hola! (yes, the magazine) rink at Plaza Colón (until 6 January).You can find another central rink at the normally borderline salubrious Plaza de la Luna, and if you venture a little further out of town, you'll find one at Parque Berlin.

Seeing some real snow

Although snow rarely falls in the city, the sierra of the Comunidad de Madrid features several little towns where you can rely on a good ground covering of snow, and even some ski stations such as Valdesqui in Rascafría. If you enjoy a good train journey, try Los Cotos, which is accessed from Cercedilla by a two-carriage train that chugs up the mountainside through a pine forest. Visiting this weekend, we saw the odd patch of snow for the first twenty minutes or so, and were starting to feel a little disillusioned until the train entered a tunnel. Emerging from the other side, the ground was coated in thick white powder, and the higher we climbed, the better it got.

Visiting Cotos in the Sierra de Guadarrama

You can rent all manner of mountain equipment from Todoaventur inside the train station, such as cross-country skis, boots and sledges. They also organize showshoe walks and offer accommodation, and their website features several deals including the train fare from Madrid. We rented a two-person sledge for the day for €10, and made our way to a snow-covered slope a few minutes away.

If you fancy a different day trip from Madrid, Cotos is definitely worth a visit. Even if you're not feeling active or don't have any mountain-appropriate gear, the train ride from Cercedilla is beautiful and there are a couple of good spots to eat, including La Cantina inside the train station. To get there from Madrid, take the C2 cercanías and change in Cercedilla. The trip costs €17.10 return and takes around 2 hours each way (including waiting time at Cercedilla).

What's your favourite festive activity in Madrid?

A secret garden in the heart of Madrid

2015-11-06T09:30:00.003+01:00

It may boast the beautiful oasis that is Retiro Park, but Madrid can't claim to be Europe's greenest city. Now autumn's set in and the leaves have started to darken, the capital's looking far from verdant. But one pocket of greenery remains year round. It's not a public park, nor the Botanic Garden. You wouldn't stumble on it while out for a walk. No, you'd be more likely to find this secret garden while out shopping.

El Jardin Secreto: A haven in central Madrid

On the third floor of the Salvador Bachiller shop on decidedly unglamorous Calle Montera, there's a surprise in store. El Jardín Secreto is an outdoor tearoom where trees grow and flowers bloom. Just a few metres above the city streets, this rooftop cafe is a quiet haven where patrons sip tea with petit fours or indulge in a slice of cake. There's an English air about the place, but the menu features typical Spanish fare too, like ham and cheese plates, plus raciones such as burrata, quinoa salad and tuna tartare. And if tea isn't your thing, you can sip on sangría, cocktails or milkshakes.

If you are a tea fan though, you won't be disappointed by the pages of teas and infusions on offer. Everything is beautifully presented, with glass tea pots and delicate floral cups just inviting you to take their photo. Another photogenic curiosity is the jardín, a dessert that looks exactly like a seedling nestling in a plantpot. When you look a little closer, the soil turns out to be grated oreo cookies, garnishing a layer of vanilla ice cream which sits atop a layer of carrot cake.

No, that's not a plant: It's dessert

With soft background music and discreet service, El Jardín Secreto is the perfect place to relax and savour a few moments' calm in the centre of the city, even when it's raining. Unlike parks, this secret garden has a retractable roof to keep you dry and cosy if the weather doesn't want to cooperate. When the sun goes down, the candles come out and you can continue sipping your cocktails after dark.

El Jardín Secreto is in the Salvador Bachiller store at Calle Montera 37, Madrid. For opening times and further information, check out their website.

PS You may have noticed it's been pretty quiet on Oh hello, Spain lately. It's not down to a lack of travels and things to share but a lack of time in which to sit down and write. I started a new job in September so my time and energy has been concentrated elsewhere. I'm hoping to find the time to get back to (semi) regular blogging soon, but in the mean time I'd be interested to hear from guest bloggers, especially those living in Spain. If you'd like to write a post for Oh hello, Spain, please send me an email with your idea.

A Different Dinner in Madrid: Dining Withlocals

2015-09-14T12:30:00.000+02:00

There's a huge emphasis on 'eating authentic' while travelling. Although we all know you're unlikely to be served home-cooking as grandma intended anywhere which uses photos on its menu, wading through the selection of restaurants in a city can be daunting. And if you want to sample real cuisine as the locals eat it, the best way is obviously to dine with them, at home. But last time I checked, securing an invitation to a stranger's house for a slap-up meal was no mean feat (not to mention risky).

Step in Withlocals. Already hugely successful in Asia, the peer-to-peer site launched earlier this year in Spain. Locals who enjoy meeting travellers and showcasing their regional cuisine can offer themselves as hosts, providing different types of dining experience in their homes. Tourists who are keen to sample real home cooking and meet residents can browse and book experiences via the website. All hosts are thoroughly vetted by Withlocals and previous diners leave reviews, so you can be sure you're booking a genuine experience. Hosts set their own prices, which are reasonable and cheaper than a similar meal in a restaurant - with local knowledge thrown in.

Although I've been to a few supper clubs in England, I'd never tried home dining, so I was curious as my friend and I trotted off to our chosen experience. We'd booked dinner at David's flat in La Elipa, where he offered a choice of a tapas menu or gazpacho and paella according to guests' preferences (and dietary requirements), all arranged in advance by email. As an adopted española, I'm well aware that eating arroz in the evening is almost sacrilegious, but I was willing to give it a go because not only would David serve us dinner, we'd also learn to cook it.

Paella preparation

I can't deny than turning up at a stranger's door was a bit daunting, but David was just as friendly as his emails, and before long we were in the kitchen 'helping' him prepare gazpacho, Spain's most famous cold soup. David's take had a twist: he added beetroot for a change from the traditional tomato flavour. We followed along with the recipe sheets he'd given us to take home, ably assisting with a bit of chopping. As we prepared the starter, David explained that he'd signed up as a Withlocals host after trying a similar experience in India and enjoyed the concept of trying home-cooked food and meeting local residents. Next up came the paella preparation: David's originally from the coastal region of Murcia, and used a family recipe to create a seafood rice. He told us that stock is the key to a good paella, which he prepared with fish stock combined with leftover liquid from cooking the mussels and frying the prawn heads. Sounds grim, but tasted good. In addition to prawns and mussels, David's paella featured squid, red pepper, tomato, garlic and peas. The seafood was purchased from the local market that day, giving it a gorgeous freshness - no rubbery squid here. True to his roots, David used rice from Murcia, explaining the importance of using a round-grain rice for paella as it absorbs more water.

Our friendly host David

Over dinner and a bottle of albariño, we chatted like friends, swapping travel and language learning stories. While David works in an office job, he's taken several weekend cooking courses, including Italian, bread-making and (of course) arroz. The results of our (well, David's) efforts in the kitchen were a refreshing gazpacho, the beetroot giving a tasty kick, plus one of the best seafood paellas I've ever tasted (even if I found the addition of peas a bit unusual). To finish, David prepared us a watermelon granizado (crushed ice): the perfect dessert for a hot summer evening. Everything we ate was tasty and well-made, clearly home cooking rather than restaurant takes on the dishes. The participative element made this experience more like popping round to a friend's flat for dinner than the often fine-dining of a supper club. Would I try home dining again? Definitely. If you're curious about local cuisine or are travelling solo, it's a great window onto local culture. And will I be trying that paella recipe at home? I'll need a paella pan first!

Withlocals experiences are available in 10 countries in Asia plus The Netherlands and Spain. You can find out more and browse dining experiences here.

I was a guest of With Locals but opinions are my own.

Pedal power: Around Catalunya on two wheels

2015-08-27T11:38:00.000+02:00

Cycle on holiday? Sure, I once rented a bike in Valencia for a few hours to cycle round the Jardines del Turia. But a cycling holiday? Well, let’s just say I'm more likely to be sporting a sun dress than pulling on padded shorts when on vacation. But when I got the chance to try out UK-based travel company Headwater’s Contrasts of Catalunya trip, a 6-day holiday relying on pedal power, I reconsidered my holiday wardrobe. After all, the yoga and pilates retreat I went on in Morocco turned out to be one of my most relaxing trips ever – could active holidays be the way forward? It was certainly worth finding out: after all, Catalunya is one of my favourite parts of the country, and true to the Contrasts of Catalunya name, the routes took us both along the Costa Brava and through the beautiful (and thankfully relatively flat) countryside of the Empordà.

The Emporda countryside

So before I knew it, my suitcase was packed with the aforementioned padded shorts and a cycling helmet nestling between sun and swimwear. I was Costa Brava-bound to show off my new gear on routes that would take us from Calella de Palafrugell to Platja de Pals, then inland to La Bisbal d' Empordàbefore returning to Calella. The routes sounded idyllic: apparently we’d ride through rice fields, alongside orchards and through the picturesque medieval villages of Pals, Toroella de Montgrí and Peratallada, pausing at our leisure (or perhaps when we were panting for breath).

Headwater has been offering self-guided cycling, walking and activity holidays for 30 years. Specialising in ‘relaxed activity holidays’, their trips are planned with the less-sporty in mind, making them well suited to very occasional cyclists like me. With holiday options in Europe and further afield, Headwater offers cycling trips in Andalucía and Asturias as well as Catalunya, plus walking holidays throughout Spain. Holidaymakers are provided with extensive route notes, a map and, in this case, GPS files to navigate from hotel to hotel by bike. There’s no group, no guides: you can travel solo, with friends or family and go at your own pace. There’s thankfully no need to pack light either: Headwater transport your suitcases to your next destination while you’re transporting yourself.

First & final stop: Calella de Palafrugell

My friend and I were met at the train station in Flaçà (almost 2 hours north-west of Barcelona) by our Headwater reps, who drove us to our first stop: Hotel Garbi, perched above coastal Calella with a commanding view of the bay. Having already received our route notes and detailed information about all our destinations by post, the reps briefed us on the practicalities of cycling in Catalunya and gave us tips on the towns we’d be visiting. Information absorbed, we were fitted with our transport for the week: two slick silver 21-speed bikes, complete with handy panniers. After a year out of the saddle, I was surprised by how wobbly I felt – how was I going to cycle 24 kilometres the next day? Clinging to the fact that the Headwater brochure describes the Contrasts of Catalunya trip as ‘ideal for first timers’, I tried to relax and enjoy my seafood dinner with a spectacular sea view.

All too soon we were bidding adéu to the Hotel Garbi and hitting the road. For all of two minutes: a few metres down the road, we turned onto a country track. Well-surfaced and wide, we rode side by side and contemplated the views across freshly-harvested fields, admiring hilltop villages in the distance. A few kilometres in, with the town of Palafrugell in sight, we paused for water – and to reassure each other that actually, this cycling lark wasn't so bad. It was certainly relaxed going so far despite the encroaching August heat: the terrain was mostly flat and the scenery stunning. Our confidence had grown: we pushed onwards, guided by the GPS files mapping our route. I greeted fellow cyclists with a breezy ‘Bon dia’, acting as though this was how I spent every Sunday morning. The road cycling was easy too; roads are blissfully quiet out in the country so we barely had to contend with traffic.

Could I pass for a pro cyclist?

Our route that day took us through the medieval town of Pals, a maze of cobbled streets lined with houses hewn from honey-coloured stone. If it hadn't have been August, we would have lingered in Pals until lunch time, but despite the breeze that accompanied us most of the way, we were keen to reach Platja de Pals before the afternoon heat set in. And what a treat when we did arrive, just in time for lunch: the Hotel Sa Punta is a welcoming oasis above the main beach resort, with its saltwater swimming pool, its tranquil gardens – and its incredible restaurant. Dinner was included on 4 of our 6 nights (guests make their own arrangements in Calella), and with food this fantastic I wasn't complaining. Our 4-course menu degustación was a treat on both evenings: the menu changes daily, drawing on local and seasonal produce, and offering meat, fish or vegetarian options. Impeccable service meant we never had to lift a hand to pour a drink: we felt like (cycling) royalty.

Dinner at the Sa Punta

Although rest day routes are provided for those who want to use pedal power to explore the local area on the days when they aren’t changing hotels, we chose to interpret ‘rest’ literally and sit cycling out for a day. After all, we were near the 2-mile sandy stretch of Platja de Pals, plus a host of coves such as Sa Tuna and Sa Riera, famed for their turquoise waters and pine-tree backdrops. We also explored the hilltop town of Begur, topped with a castle from which there’s a beautiful view out to the Mediterranean Sea and the Illes Medes. By day 3, we were sufficiently rested and fortified by the Sa Punta’s divine cuisine to cycle 34 kilometres, this time rolling through rice fields, alongside apple orchards and rivers, and through the medieval town of Torroella de Montgrí. Our destination this time was the Castell d’Empordà, a castle-turned-luxury hotel deep in the countryside of the Empordà. This fertile region is known for its rice production and its wine – and we tried both on the terrace at the hotel’s restaurant. Being in the middle of the countryside was an excellent excuse to rest up and enjoy lounging by the pool, admiring the views out over the fields.

Castell d'Emporda: One of the three hotels on the Contrasts of Catalunya route

By our final day’s cycling, we were pros: packing our panniers was a cinch, our bikes were an easy ride and navigating was a breeze. Shame there wasn't an actual breeze that day though: although the August temperatures had been manageable, the muggy weather made cycling a bit of a slog. Our route took us through several pine forests, which may be picturesque, but their sandy ground is harder work than road cycling. Still, day 5’s route took us to our favourite village of the week. Peratallada is one photogenic place: narrow streets leading to pretty plazas, window boxes adorned with bright geraniums and local crafts on sale everywhere. It was a shame to leave, but we pushed on to the town of Palafrugell itself, and finally made it to coastal Llafranc for lunch by the beach. It was about 4pm by the time we reached Calella – plenty of time to catch a few last rays of sun before enjoying our last evening meal in this pretty seaside town.

The pretty village of Peratallada

So, would I take another cycling holiday? Absolutely. Although on the occasional uphill stretch I may have been praying for four wheels instead of two, bikes are a great way to get around. Due to the tracks available to cyclists in this part of Catalunya, we saw far more than we’d have been able to by car, and being out in the fresh air makes you appreciate scenery in a different way. I’d probably avoid August next time, and pace my days more slowly to spend more time in the hamlets and villages we passed through, Peratallada and Pals in particular. The possibility of going at your own pace is a real draw of Headwater holidays – you aren’t under pressure to complete routes in a certain timeframe or keep up with anyone. Detours are entirely possible too – the routes are intended as a guide, but we stuck to them as they were so well-planned, taking in a good balance of coast and countryside, and ensuring we had plenty of opportunities to stop for food or drink in the villages we visited. I certainly saw more of Catalunya than I would have done on an average beach holiday – and there’s nothing more satisfying than flopping down by the pool, sweaty but safe in the knowledge that you've earned some tanning time. And that someone is going to cook you a delicious dinner.

Headwater offers cycling, walking and activity holidays in Europe and the rest of the world. Contrasts of Catalunya runs from April until 20 October and costs include transfers, use of bikes, route notes, support from Headwater reps and accommodation (half board for 4 nights, B & B for 2). For more information on Headwater’s holidays, see their website.

All photos from my Instagram feed.

The faded charm of Faro, Portugal

2015-08-20T10:30:00.000+02:00

The pace in Portugal is different. Although similar in some ways to its Iberian neighbour, Portugal lacks the frenetic fiesta vibe often associated with Spain. Instead Portugal has an old-school charm I adore, and nowhere is this more evident than Faro.

In addition to being the country's third city, Faro is the capital of the southern Algarve region. It's far from a bustling metropolis though: this seaside town is little and laid-back. In the cidade velha, Faro's partly-pedestrianised old quarter, storks swoop through the skies, settling on church spires. From the vantage points of their nests, they keep watch over Faro's residents as they go about their daily business in the streets below. Tourists mingle with locals, usually taking a break from a resort holiday to do a little shopping and admire Faro's discreet charms.

Faro's storks survey the streets

And they are discreet: Faro has no prime tourist attractions to speak of. Instead, visitors will find tumbledown houses alongside local businesses, sunbleached stone next to intricately-worked tiles. Local businesses mix with high-street chains, family-run restaurants nestle next to boutiques. Faro has a decadent air to it that's far-removed from the flashiness of some resorts. This is the Algarve at its purest.

In recent years, restoration work has been carried out gradually, bringing some of Faro's facades back to full glory. A few new businesses have opened up too, with high-end boutiques alongside chain stores. But in true Faro fashion, this development is low-key and slow-paced, a gentle polish rather than gentrification.

Tiles in Faro's cidade velha

Dining in Faro's cidade velha also offers a sharp contrast to the Algarve's resorts: this time for price. Beachside restaurants often come with a premium price tag, but in Faro you can easily pay around €10 per person for lunch. Piteu offers good value fish and meat dishes with friendly service, which you can round off with an artisanal ice cream from Chelsea cafe (I can only assume the non-local name is Mourinho inspired). Faro's mini marina is also worth a wander: here you'll find petite pleasure boats rather than super yachts. And that's the beauty of Faro: its charm is in the small things.

Faro marina

You can find more posts on Portugal here.

How (not) to do Ibiza

2015-08-13T10:30:00.000+02:00

A summer playground for the global jet-set. A boho paradise of sandy beaches and yoga retreats. A raucous party destination beloved of inebriated Europeans. Whichever tagline you go with, Ibiza certainly has more alternative personalities than your average holiday hotspot.

Growing up in the 90s and noughties, I was used to seeing San Antonio antics hit the headlines every year when summer rolled round. I saw the headlines change as Ibiza welcomed more of the celebrity crowd and became a boutique, luxury destination. For some reason, the White Isle had always intrigued me with its chameleon character. So I decided, for means of deadline setting rather than a genuine sell-by date concern, that I had to 'do' Ibiza before a certain significant birthday.

As someone who travels fairly err, frequently, the prospect of a holiday can lose the shine it should have. Not so with Ibiza. Flights for the August trip were booked in February, accommodation in March, club tickets in a fit of excitement in June. By the time the departure date rolled around, I'd read reams of Ibiza info – where to wine and dine, the best beaches, what to wear, the lowdown on the club scene. My suitcase was packed with more fringed items, flat sandals, bikinis and beach cover ups than were strictly necessary for a one-week break. I was ready.

Or so I thought.

All the Ibiza advice in the world couldn't account for the fact that when it comes to a party holiday, I was an extreme novice. From cereal bars in my handbag to overestimating what to wear to a beach party, I made all the Ibiza mistakes so you don't have to.

This actually happened. Don't make the same mistake.

The Don'ts

DON'T book all your club tickets in advance. My friend and I got a little over-excited and paid for four nights' entertainment before we arrived, based on which acts we liked rather than other factors like timing and venue. As a result, we went to Ibiza Rocks twice and missed out on iconic Pacha and Space, and did most of our partying in the afternoon/evening rather than all night in classic Spanish style. By all means, have a look online before you jet off (we managed to save €5 on Ellie Goulding tickets by booking in advance), but don't plan everything before you leave. Instead, listen to travellers' tips on the ground – you're likely to bump into a few island veterans who can advise you on where to go. And you're on holiday, be spontaneous.

DON'T dismiss package holidays. We booked our flights and an apartment separately, which gave us more independence, the ability to self-cater and a great choice of location. We ended up in Figueretas, a more Spanish area which is home to one of the closest beaches to Ibiza Town. We didn't want to be in the thick of the party action, so this suited us perfectly, but I'm not sure how much we saved in the long run. Apartment rental prices soar in summer, so it might be worth checking out package deals to see if you can save a little on travel costs.

DON'T arrive at clubs when the doors open. We attended a few events at Ibiza Rocks and Ushuaia with an early-evening kick off and, wanting to get value for money, turned up to the first one at the time specified on the ticket. This was a rookie mistake which gave us no alternative but to people watch until the warm-up DJ arrived. Yes, we arrived before the warm-up DJ.

So early, there isn't even a queue

DON'T go to Amnesia. Unless you like crowds so dense it takes you half an hour to elbow through them to get to the loo, music you have to be out of your head to enjoy, people smoking indoors and suspecting the capacity rules have been totally ignored. It felt like an accident waiting to happen, so we left before it did. Es Paradis was a much nicer 'super club' experience: supposedly the most beautiful disco on the island, it's well decorated, numbers are controlled and the music was much better (ie had lyrics). It's not all about the super clubs either: I wish we'd tried some of the beachside chiringuitos with afternoon DJ sessions for something more chilled. I think this was what I was hoping for when we ventured to Bora Bora in Playa d'en Bossa: roll in off the beach, into the bar and have a bit of a boogie. What we found was roaring drunk revellers in full-on rave mode wearing scanty swimwear you definitely wouldn't want to attempt a front crawl in. Not really our scene, to put it mildly.

DON'T feel like you've got to go out clubbing every night. Two of the nights I enjoyed the most were the ones when we went for a long, leisurely dinner and enjoyed a wander round Ibiza Town followed by a couple of cocktails. For delicious French food by the water's edge, try Soleado on the Figueretas beach front, and for something more traditional in town, La Brasa has great Mediterranean cooking and a gorgeous garden.

The garden at La Brasa restaurant in Ibiza Town

DON'T go to Ibiza in high season if you aren't interested in clubbing. We were restricted by school holidays so visited in August, but clubs stay open into autumn, so for slightly better value visit in September. If you aren't interested in the party scene, skip summer and head to Ibiza any other time of year – the weather is decent all year round, and with a beautiful landscape, photogenic villages and great food, it's a top destination in any season.

Now, to prove I'm not a complete dimwit, here's what we got right in Ibiza.

The Do's

DO tuck into a menú del dia at lunchtime, especially if you're hitting an afternoon session. Eating on Ibiza can be pretty expensive, so take advantage of the best value dining of the day with a 3-course set meal offered in many restaurants around the island. Our favourite was Fusion in Figueretas, which had a decently-priced menu that changed weekly. I found mealtimes a bit of an issue when it came to evening events so, cool kid that I am, I took a cereal bar with me in my handbag. Hey, nobody likes to be around me when I'm hungry – just ask my family.

Sunset at Cafe del Mar isn't too shabby

DO enjoy sunset at Café del Mar. Yes, it's a cliche, but it's worth it. We enjoyed a relaxed glass of cava as the sun went down across San Antonio bay. It may not necessarily be the best sunset in the world as is claimed, but with lounge beats playing in the background, the sun on your face and a friend by your side, it ain't half bad.

DO stock your own bar. As Ibiza's pricey, we enjoyed an aperitif on the terrace of our apartment before heading out at night. There are also numerous bars with evening drinks offers around the port in Ibiza Town, but drinks in the clubs are even pricier than in mainland Spain.

DO leave the heels at home. My pre-trip reading informed me that flat sandals were ideal for a long day/night's dancing in Ibiza, and the advice was correct. Style on the White Isle tends to be boho and beachy rather than the bodycon and stilettos you'd see in Bolton on a Friday night. Much more comfortable, and dare I say classy.*

Ses Illetes beach on Formentera

DO try out different beaches around the island. The bonus of going out early was that we rose early to hit the beach. Figueretas beach was on our doorstep, but we also ventured to much bigger Las Salinas, famed for its golden sand, pine-tree backdrop and beach bars, and across the water to Formentera. This smaller island is well worth a visit: its azure waters and white sands give Formentera a Caribbean feel. Boats depart regularly from beaches around the island, taking around half an hour. Once on Formentera, you can reach the different beaches by bus or bike. If you have time, it's worth heading a little further away from the port of La Savina – we headed to Playa de Ses Illetes along with what seemed like half of Italy. You can find more beach information here.

DO use public transport to get around. If you are visiting Ibiza primarily to sunbathe and party, there's no need to hire a car. The bus network connects the airport with the major resorts and Ibiza Town, and you can also reach beaches like Las Salinas from Ibiza Town bus station. Regular buses link San Antonio and Ibiza Town, and at night the Discobus (yes, really) runs this route, stopping at Amnesia and Privilege on the way. The Discobus has other lines connecting both San Antonio and Ibiza Town with Playa d'en Bossa, where Space is located.

Of course, there's no right or wrong way to 'do' Ibiza: people visit the island for many different reasons. Despite our first-timer howlers (or maybe because of them), we had an incredible week of sunbathing, eating and drinking, plus some memorable partying – cereal bars and all.

*I am allowed to say this. I used to go out in Bolton on Friday nights many moons ago. I didn't wear bodycon though,

10 things I learnt about Catalan cuisine with Devour Barcelona

2015-07-18T11:01:00.000+02:00

Just like Spain's geography, its cuisine is diverse. So when I visited Barcelona recently, I was excited to learn more about Catalan gastronomy with Devour Barcelona. The second city to hold a Devour Spain food tour, the Barcelona route focuses on the Gràcia neighbourhood north of key city artery Passeig de Gràcia. Unlike this busy boulevard flanked by designer stores, Gracia is best-known for its local vibe – so much so that it's often referred to as a 'village in the middle of Barcelona'. Knowing how crowded the Catalan capital can get, I was sceptical of this claim: disproving it wasn't the only surprise I had in store that morning.

Founded by food and travel blogger Lauren Aloise of Spanish Sabores, Devour Spain began life as Madrid Food Tour. I was lucky enough to try out their Tapas, Taverns and History tour last year, so when they expanded to Barcelona in 2014, I couldn't wait to try their food tour. Running every morning from Tuesday to Saturday, the Barcelona tour takes you all the way from breakfast through to post-lunch coffee & cake, with 9 stops dotted around gorgeous Gràcia. I met friendly tour guide Renée on Passeig de Gràcia, and our group headed up to the barrio of the same name. En route, Renée explained that Gràcia actually once was a village, cut off from the city itself, which at the time centred around Barceloneta and El Born. Passeig de Gràcia was built to link the two, and the rest is history. In my opinion, this pretty barrio is perfect food tour territory: it's still largely off the tourist itinerary, and is home to plenty of family-run businesses which Devour Spain likes to support.

But enough about Gràcia: my mission was to eat. So, here's what I learnt during one food-packed morning with Devour Barcelona.

1) Drinking cava for breakfast is encouraged

Feeling decadent with cava for brekfast

At stop number one, wood-panelled, family photo-bedecked Can Tosca, I tucked into a green garlic omelette sandwich washed down with a glass of the sparkling stuff. At 10am, No, I'm not a secret daytime drinker or a decadent type – Renée reassured us that quaffing cava with your breakfast is totally normal in Catalunya. The Spanish version of more famous sparkling wine champagne, cava is made with different grapes to its French cousin, but the process used is the same (unlike Italian prosecco). Its price tag is lower than champagne as the conditions in Catalunya are more favourable, so a higher volume can be produced. If that means cava from 85 cents a glass, I'm not complaining. It made quite a change from my usual coffee or tea, and got the tour off to a great start. Can Tosca has been run by the same family since it opened in 1961, and the friendly crew certainly know how to cook – my omelette (butifarra sausage for the meat-eaters) was flavoursome and served on fresh, crusty bread.

2) The Mercat de la Boqueria isn't the only Barcelona market worth a visit

Taking a bite out of Barcelona

Tour founder Lauren is of the opinion that the best way to get a flavour for a city is through its markets. Entering Gràcia's market, the Mercat de l'Abaceria Central, I could see why: locals thronged the aisles picking up daily groceries, selecting the best produce. We made our way to Josep's olive stall (aka Selecció d'Olives i Conserves Glória) where the owner sells olives and marinated vegetables to take away, as well as serving up tasty skewers loaded with different flavour combinations – apparently inspired by Madrid's own Mercado de San Miguel. We polished off a huge mouthful of green olive, pepper and salt cod before making our way to cheese stall La Trobada del Gourmet, where we sampled three varieties of Spanish and Catalan cheese accompanied by membrillo, or quince jelly. La Boqueria may be impressive, but if you'd rather see a snapshot of regular city life, the Mercat de l'Abaceria is a great spot to try.

Cheese heaven at La Trobada del Gourmet

3) When it comes to olive oil, 'cold pressed' means nothing

At chic oil boutique Oli Sal, Renée explained the process of producing extra virgin olive oil. This highest quality golden liquid is the only variety stocked there, and after our guide's explanation I understood why. Extra virgin is to other oils what freshly-squeezed orange juice is to from concentrate: the one that you want. I found out that the term 'cold pressed' means nothing – heat is never used in the olive oil making process. Still, not all extra virgins are created equal: we tried a selection of flavours, running from smooth and light to a deeply fruity number. I skipped the traditional tasting method of using a spoon and tasted the oils on crusty bread instead. Two varieties we sampled were from Catalunya; the most punch-packing was from Jaén, Spain's main olive-growing region.

Olive oil boutique Oli Sal

4) There's an art to pa amb tomàquet

Almost any meal in Catalunya comes accompanied by a healthy helping of bread rubbed with fresh tomato and doused with olive oil. It's at once incredibly simple and delicious. At Gràcia tapas bar L'Anxoveta, owner Carlos demonstrated with flair how best to produce the perfect pa amb tomàquet using fresh pan de cristal, tomatoes purchased at the market that morning, local olive oil (and optional garlic). After watching the process, we each had chance to try making it ourselves – and savouring the results.

5) It's possible for patatas bravas to be genuinely spicy

All too often, patatas bravas are served with a tomato sauce that's more soso than spicy. Not so at L'Anxoveta: chef Iqbal is originally from Pakistan, so knows his stuff when it comes to spice. The potatoes themselves were perfectly cooked, and the sauce was to my taste, although it's no doubt a bit too picante for the average Spaniard. The meat-eaters among us tried a bomba: a round potato croqueta with ground beef served with ali oli and the same spicy sauce. This tapa originated in the Barceloneta area, but is now popular all over Spain. Here at L'Anxoveta, we learned more about the tradition of tapas and how to order – very useful for those visiting Spain for the first time.

Gorgeous Gracia, where the Devour Barcelona tour takes place

6) Outside influences are welcome

Despite the name, our sixth stop was far from a traditional Catalan bakery: Pastisseria Príncipe is a Syrian pastry shop in the heart of Gràcia. Owner Mustafa came to Barcelona on holiday 30 years ago, and within two months was married to a local lady and set up his business. His shop seemed a cornerstone of the community, with a queue of customers selecting their Friday treats. Príncipe has an on-site kitchen which produces 2000 pastries a day. To be honest, my cashew number was a bit dry and the least interesting bite of the tour – perhaps I should have gone for the pistachio, chocolate and almond instead.

7) When it comes to aperitivo, Catalan granddads are trend-setters

Vermut at Ca'l Pep

In recent years, vermouth has been embraced by hipsters, but Catalan granddads were in the know about this aperitif years ago. La hora del vermut falls before lunch time, when hipsters and avis alike enjoy this fortified wine laced with caramel and herbs. The city of Reus in Tarragona is Spain's key vermouth producing area, so understandably it's a popular tipple throughout Catalunya. We tried some accompanied with a refreshing spritz of sifón (soda water) at classic 'old man bar' Ca'l Pep, whose doors opened around a century ago. As is typical, we accompanied our vermut with boquerones en vinagre (pickled anchovies), the marinated taste offsetting the sweetness of the vermouth. This is one tradition I'm glad the hipsters revived (the giant beards less so).

8) Catalan take-ways do exist (sort of)

What a Catalan take away looks like

The 'lunch' element of our tour was provided by La Botigueta del Bon Menjar, a 'llegums cuites' vendor. Apparently, these shops came into existence when women started working outside the home, selling prepared produce such as cooked chickpea and lentil dishes. Nowadays, this tiny spot has a counter for clients to eat at as well as selling take-away home cooking: fideuà (similar to paella but cooked with noodles instead of rice), pulse-based dishes, salads and the like. We samples creamy espinacas a la catalana, spinach served Catalan-style (which I discovered meant with raisins and pine nuts). We also tried a taster of escalivada, a roasted vegetable salad served with romesco sauce. The old-school nature of this 'take away' with its delicious home cooking was preferable to a fast-food joint any day of the week. This spot is also close to Gràcia's 'secret' Gaudí house: Casa Vicens was the architect's first private commission. It's currently closed to the public, but its doors are set to open in the next few years, which will no doubt disrupt the area's peace and quiet. For now, you can grab an exterior view of this tiled masterpiece.

Casa Vicens, a Gaudi house in the heart of Gracia

9) There's a pastry form of crema catalana

Dessert came in the form of a cremat, a semi-solid version of crema catalana, which apparently preceded its more famous French counterpart creme brulée by around 300 years, with the first written record dating back to the 14th century. The Catalan dessert is made with lemon and orange rind and cinnamon, rather than vanilla like creme brulée. After sampling so many tastes all morning, a huge helping of rich crema catalana would have finished me off, but a mini-cremat washed down with a cortado coffee ended the tour on a sweet note. The cremat is a invention of Pastisseria Ideal, a traditional pastry shop and cafe that opened in 1919 on Carrer Gran de Gràcia, the continuation of glam Passeig de Gràcia. They certainly got the recipe right: this rich morsel had a melt-in-the mouth texture and came perched atop a brioche-style bun.

The perfect mini dessert: A cremat

10) It's delicious

Yes, my final lesson about Catalan cuisine is a bit of a cheat, but it's also true. During my morning with Devour Barcelona, I learnt that Catalan cooking spans a wider variety than I'd originally thought, and the quality of food we sampled was excellent. So much so that it's hard to pick my favourite stops, but if I had to, I'd probably choose Can Tosca, the market, L'Anxoveta and Pastisseria Ideal for a combination of food and atmosphere.

If you're heading to Barcelona soon, I'd highly recommend checking out Devour Barcelona for a great introduction to the city's cooking and a tour of Gràcia, a neighbourhood that swept me off my feet. As well as learning about the individual dishes you try and the people behind them, the tour is great fun and Renée is full of quirky facts about Gràcia and Barcelona, teaching us more about local festivals and traditions such as caps grossos (big heads) and correfocs (fire-runners). Wonder what on earth I'm talking about? You'll just have to take the tour and find out for yourself.

Devour Barcelona Food Tours cost €65 and run from Tuesday-Saturday at 10am. As well as the tour, you receive a guide to eating in Barcelona. Devour Spain also run tours in Madrid and Sevilla, with Málaga coming soon.

You may also be interested in:

Madrid Food Tour
Sevilla Tapas Tour

I was a guest of Devour Barcelona but all opinions are my own.

The Spanish Costas, revisited - It's not all suncream & sangria

2015-07-06T20:01:00.000+02:00

If you're British, chances are your childhood will have featured at least one bucket-and-spade holiday on one of the Spanish costas. There's no denying that despite the travel trends that come and go, Spain is a national favourite holiday destination for us, with breaks on the Costa del Sol, Costa Blanca and Costa Brava remaining popular. But how well do we really know the Spanish costas?

For those who shudder at the thought of holidaying on the Spanish coast, automatically thinking of the high-rise hotels of Benidorm and crowded beaches thronged with fellow Brits, think again. Like the rest of the country, Spain's coastline is incredibly diverse, with both rugged, wild stretches dotted with rocky coves and sweeps of sandy beach. Temperatures vary too, with the north a more temperate option at any time of year.

So if you haven't sorted a summer holiday yet, it's time to revisit the costas.

The lesser-known costas

If you're more into verdant landscapes than sunbleached beaches, the Costa Verde in north-eastern Asturias may be for you. More commonly associated with cider and its mountainous interior, Asturias has 350 kilometres of coastline. Key coastal towns include Cudillero and Llastres, where the Spanish equivalent of Doc Martin was filmed. If you're into more active pursuits than just sunbathing, the Costa Verde won't disappoint – it's a perfect location for rafting and hiking thanks to milder temperatures.

San Sebastian, the stunner of the Basque coast

Also in the north, the Costa Vasca has on old-school glamour reminiscent of the south of France - but without the hefty price tag. The cities of Bilbao and San Sebastián are key Basque Country attractions, meaning that this coastline of the Basque Country is ideal for combining a city break with some beach time. San Sebastián offers both in the same gorgeous package: the wide sweep of La Concha beach is one of the country's most photographed, while the laid-back little city is renowned for its gastronomy, particularly its pintxos (tapas). With little to tick off on the museum front, you won't feel guilty moving from beach towel to pintxo bar.

The Costa del Sol isn't the only stretch of coastline in Andalucía – Spain's southernmost region is also home to the Costa de la Luz, Costa Tropical and Costa de Almería. These three areas are better known among Spanish than British tourists, so if you're looking to blend in while still enjoying some tanning time, try one of these costas. Stretching from Cádiz to Huelva, the province which shares a border with Portugal, the Costa de la Luz is on the Atlantic coast. It's home to wide sandy beaches ideal for sunbathing – or if one of the famous levante winds hits town, for windsurfing or kite-surfing too. Laid-back Tarifa has a surfer vibe all year round, and is this coast's jumping-off point for Morocco, as the ferry to Tangier departs from here.

View of Africa: Tarifa is the southernmost point of Spain

The province of Granada may be best known for the Alhambra, but its also home to the Costa Tropical, a short stretch of coast where the main beach towns are Motril, Almuñécar and Salobreña. If you're looking for more dramatic landscapes, try Almería: the Cabo de Gata has some impressive rock formations as well as some quieter beaches.

The costas you think you know, revisited

Home to the renowned resort of Benidorm, the Costa Blanca has more to offer than English breakfasts in the sun. 2800 hours of sunshine and warm temperatures year-round make this coastline popular with Spanish visitors too – the city of Alicante and neighbouring resort Playa San Juan are favourites among Madrileños who escape the city heat in August. Pretty Jávea and Altea have well-preserved old towns, while laid-back Calpe's mountain backdrop means that a quiet retreat from the beach is an easy option.

Stunning Cadaques

Perhaps best known among Brits for gay tourism in Sitges and the party resort of Lloret de Mar, the Spanish associate the Costa Brava with its rugged coastline and great seafood. Stretching up to the French border, this area of Catalan coast is studded with rocky coves and harbours, making it ideal for those who like to explore different towns. Soak up some culture and cuisine in stunning Cadaqués: artist Salvador Dalí's former home is just a few kilometres away in Portlligat, while a group of graduates from El Bulli are cooking up a storm at Compartir.

No article on the Spanish costas would be complete without a mention of the grande dame of coastlines, the Costa del Sol. Beloved of Brits for decades, it isn't just home to the party town of 'Marbs' (or more accurately Puerto Banús, not much of the partying goes on in Marbella itself) and family-friendly resorts like Torremolinos, you can also find low-key beach towns like pretty little Estepona. Visiting last year, I was surprised at my misconceptions of the Costa del Sol: I spent a long weekend in Fuengirola, fully expecting to find fishbowl cocktails being slurped by rowdy teens, but instead encountered a very Spanish town centre blended with a touch of that British home-from-home on the beach front. Any place where I can enjoy a morning cup of tea with a sea view followed by pescaíto frito for lunch is just fine by me.

Need more information on the costas? This fun infographic gives the lowdown on the Spanish coastline's top picks. You can also find information on every stretch of Spanish sand here.

Embedded from The TravelRepublic Blog

Which is your favourite Spanish costa? Will you be heading to any of them this summer?

Fritanga-free zone: 6 Madrid restaurants for light summer dining

2015-06-15T10:30:00.000+02:00

The Mediterranean diet is renowned for being one of the healthiest in the world. I beg to differ. Show me a Spanish restaurant menu that doesn't feature deep-fried croquetas, patatas bravas smothered in sauce, plates of fatty jamón and a vegetable that isn't an oily pimiento de padrón, and I'm there.

I wish the Mediterranean diet in Spain looked like this

Don't get me wrong, I like Spanish food. But I also like variety. And even more than that, I like eating healthily rather than consuming daily doses of fritanga (deep-fried food) when I dine out. This is particularly the case during the heat of the summer months, when greasy grub doesn't exactly sit well in the stomach. Of course, restaurants here do offer grilled fish, gazpacho and salad; but while choosing lighter options on a lunchtime menu del dia might be reasonably easy, finding a restaurant with healthy raciones for dinner is more of a challenge. Even the latest wave of identikit rustic chic eateries' menus are peppered with traditional Spanish dishes with a 'modern twist': read, croquetas with unusual ingredients.

So, if like me you're looking for some lighter dining options this summer, read on to find a few fritanga-free restaurants in Madrid.

Lunch

Xanacuk – This Australian-owned lunch spot in Chueca is the place to go if you're craving quinoa salads, tabbouleh, juices and healthy snacks. The Augusto Figueroa branch has a few tables (including a terraza), but you can also take away and even order online for home delivery. Great value and bound to leave you feeling virtuous. Note that they haven't yet updated their website, but the Calle Orense branch closed last year. Xanacuk, Calle Augusto Figueroa 13. Open for lunch Monday-Friday.

Vegetarian moussaka at Health & Go

Health & Go – Since the closure of Xanacuk Orense, this little place in Moda Shopping Centre is my lunchtime saviour. With a daily choice of 6 or more primeros and segundos, with ingredients and health benefits clearly explained, you can get your fill for €7.95 for 2 courses or order just one course. There are always vegan and vegetarian options, plus freshly-made juices. My favourites are the aduki bean salad, the tofu red curry and the pez mantequilla served with wholegrain rice. You can order online & collect in-store. The only downside is that even if you eat in (a few tables are available), you're given disposable packaging and cutlery. Health & Go, Moda Shopping (Calle General Peron). Open Monday-Friday until 6.30pm, weekends until 2pm.

Viva Burger – The long-standing vegetarian buffet restaurant Viva la Vida is now Viva Burger, a vegetarian burger place. I know, burgers aren't exactly light, but they still offer a range of meat-free dishes in addition to a huge selection of burgers. The location in pretty Plaza de la Paja in the heart of La Latina is also part of the charm – get there early to grab a spot on the terraza. Viva Burger, Costanilla de San Andres 16. Open daily from 11am until midnight (2am weekends).

Dinner

El Huerto de Lucas – This airy interior patio in Chueca is ringed by 'stalls' selling juices, drinks, bread and more, but take a seat in the centre for table service from La Cantina. The menu at El Huerto de Lucas is based around market-fresh produce, and is full of light options suitable for both vegetarians and meat eaters. Try the quinoa and amaranth tabbouleh with citrus dressing, the Sicilian caponata with free-range eggs or one of the organic steaks. Vegan, dairy free and gluten free options are clearly indicated on the menu. El Huerto de Lucas, Calle San Lucas 13. Open Monday to Saturday until 10pm.

Inside El Huerto de Lucas

myVeg – Don't be fooled by the name; there's plenty of meat and fish on the menu at myVeg in Triball. Vegetables are given far more of a starring role than the usual green salad – there's a selection of entirely meat-free dishes such as vegetable quiche or pisto which can be mains or accompaniments, plus a variety of meat and fish dishes, from roast beef with rocket and parmesan to squid with avocado tartare. The minimalist interior is chic and simple, and the service is friendly. This year, they opened a terraza and now offer breakfast too, During the week, myVeg offers a €15 menu del dia at lunchtime. myVeg, Calle Valverde 28. Open Monday-Saturday. Monday until 6pm, other days until 2am.

Rayén – Even though I don't eat meat, the idea of a vegan restaurant puts me in mind of austerity, a hippy atmosphere and flavourless food. Not so at Rayén: this place in Barrio de las Letras is kind to the planet but also trendy enough to keep diners who like a bit of style happy. With world flavours such as chipotle-grilled tempeh, cardamom-spiced squash with seitan and shitake mushrooms plus salads of the leaf, grain and pulse variety, you won't be short of tasty options. They also serve craft beers and organic wines. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Rayén, Calle Lope de Vega 7. See website for opening hours. Dinner on Friday & Saturday only.

What are your feelings on fritanga? Do you have any favourite restaurants in Madrid with light options?

Photos from jeanetteshealthyliving,com, Health & Go and El Huerto de Lucas.

My May in -ings: Watching flamenco in Seville, devouring Barcelona & shopping in Girona

2015-06-04T09:37:00.000+02:00

As usual, my recent online low profile isn't due to a lack of subject matter: quite the opposite. As I've been too busy to blog regularly, I thought I'd update you on what I've been up to and give a preview of upcoming posts, plus a few tips that probably wouldn't have made it onto the blog otherwise.

So, in May, I've been...

Visiting

Seeing La Giralda from a different angle

Seville. For this year's Puente de Mayo, I hopped on the AVE to my favourite southern city for a weekend of sun, tapas and good times with fellow blogger Becoming Sevillana. We had some top-notch bites to eat (and good service) at modern tapas bars La Pepona and La Chunga, with breakfast at characterful old-school Casa Moreno thrown into the mix. We also toured the rooftops of Seville's Cathedral, a badly-advertised visit that proved to be a brilliant way to see this incredible building from some very different angles. We learnt much more about the construction and history of the cathedral than you would on an unguided visit, plus we got to wander the interior at our leisure after the tour. Visits now seem to have ended for the season (due to the summer heat), but you can book them (in Spanish only unless you can fill a tour) through Conocer Sevilla. Another 'typical sevillano' moment which made me question why I no longer live here was an evening of flamenco en estado puro at Bodeguita Fabiola. By en estado puro, I mean the real deal: although clearly aimed to draw in the tourists, there were no unbuttoned white shirts or slicked back hair here; just 4 blokes with earrings, tattoos and rhythm. One wiry young lad turned out to be a mesmerizing dancer, while the singer had a captivating voice. There's no entry charge, just (cheap) drinks, so it's well worth dropping in.

Barcelona. A quick work trip ended with a rare day to myself in the city: I decided to skip San Isidro in Madrid and spend the weekend in Catalunya. Before moving on to my next destination, I spent the morning eating my way around the Gràcia neighbourhood with Devour Barcelona (see below).

Girona. After being won over by this colourful city in March, I returned for a long weekend in May. This time, my visit coincided with the Temps de Flors festival, but even outside this event Girona has lots to offer: a relaxed environment, great food and a casco antiguo so beautiful you'll be reaching for your camera at every turn. Saturday afternoon at Temps de Flors proved a bit overcrowded and saw my friend and I retreat to the shops, where we discovered beautiful boutique Maison Marina. Their own designs are made in the shop itself; the soundtrack to your browsing is the whir and clack of a sewing machine. The advantage of this proved to be easy alterations: I fell in love with a daisy-trimmed top that was too big, so I was measured up and returned in 20 minutes to pick up a perfectly fitting version.

Gorgeous Girona

Eating

The best of Barcelona. After trying out Madrid Food Tour last year, I couldn't wait to take Devour Spain's tour of the Gràcia neighbourhood in Barcelona. Much as I love the Catalan capital, I can't help but feel overwhelmed by the tourist hordes in the centre. I'd often heard Gràcia likened to a village (which it originally was), but was sceptical until I witnessed it for myself on a four-hour tour led by the lovely Renee. In addition to trying out Catalan cuisine at nine different stops, I also learnt a lot about the history of Barcelona, and of this lovely neighbourhood in particular. But the best revelation of all was that it's not only OK to drink cava with breakfast, it's positively encouraged. There'll be a full post on my Devour Barcelona experience soon, but in the meantime I'd recommend that anyone visiting Barcelona, Madrid or Seville soon checks out Devour Spain's tours (and their handy blog posts).

Visiting Gracia with Devour Barcelona

Cheese, wine and ice cream in Girona. Not together, of course. Our best find during Temps de Flors was cheese and wine bar La Simfonia, a relaxed spot on shady Plaça de l'Oli in the barri vell. With a menu of carefully-selected wines (mostly regional), cheeses both Spanish and international plus other cold cuts, a trip to La Simfonia makes for the perfect relaxed evening. Of course, Girona's cuisine has been hitting the headlines due to El Celler de Can Roca reclaiming its crown as the world's best restaurant, but it's almost impossible to get a reservation (booking opens at the beginning of each year). I found out that the Roca brothers' mum runs a menu del dia-style restaurant next door, but rather than checking out Mrs Roca's homely cooking we opted for ice cream at Rocambolesc. Excited by promises of intriguing flavours, we were a little disappointed to find only 6 on offer that day, and although my baked apple and yoghurt ice cream was pretty tasty, the addition of all kinds of toppings (my choices) really made it. The third branch of Rocambolesc has recently opened in Madrid, at El Corte Inglés on Serrano – I'll be popping along to give those more creative flavours a go.

It's all about the ice cream toppings at Rocmbolesc in Girona

Learning

Catalan. Since October 2014, I've been studying Catalan at Centre Cultural Blanquerna in Madrid – and I've been loving every minute of it. As a self-confessed language geek, picking up a new lingo from scratch has been both a fun and an enriching experience, and I've unexpectedly acquired a bunch of friends in my fellow classmates. My choice to study Catalan raises a few eyebrows and attracts the odd unkind comment, but I'll be keeping up my studies next year. I took the official A2 (elementary level) exam in May, but I don't find out the results until September. A veure!

Horse riding. From starting new hobbies to picking up old ones, I've recently taken up horse riding again. I'm enjoying going back to basics with the excellent tuition at Aula Ecuestre, and escaping to Colmenar Viejo in the sierra is a weekly treat. If any Spanish-speakers fancy taking riding lessons in the Madrid area, I'd highly recommend this riding school – the horses are well-cared for and Nacho has years of experience in the equestrian field.

HDR view of Colmenar Viejo

So, that was my month in -ings! I look forward to writing more about Barcelona and Seville soon. What have you been doing lately?

Temps de Flors: Girona's Flower Festival

2015-05-25T10:30:00.000+02:00

For me, the term 'flower festival' conjures up images of posh middle-aged ladies in fussy blouses and pearls, primping their prize hydrangeas before the judges pass by. Thankfully, Girona and Chelsea couldn't be further apart: Temps de Flors is a city-wide event that appeals to a much broader demographic. And best of all? It's free.

Located north-east of Barcelona, the petite city of Girona is photogenic at any time of year. Its Barri Vell (old quarter) has a definite French feel, its winding alleyways opening out onto unexpected placas ideal for a leisurely drink. It's a colourful place at any time of year: its riverside is flanked by multicoloured houses, representing every shade in an artist's palette. For eight days each May however, Girona takes on an even greater charm when spaces around the city are decked with floral exhibitions for Temps de Flors.

Gorgeous Girona from its Eiffel-designed bridge

Celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2015, Temps de Flors is no fusty flower festival; it's a vibrant event that appeals to all ages. Both public and private buildings can put on floral exhibitions and invite visitors inside to admire their creativity – this year, there were over 100 spaces listed on the Temps de Flors map. Some of the most impressive entries are outdoors, such as the floral carpet covering an alleyway leading to the Cathedral, or the flower-bedecked steps leading to the Cathedral itself. Others are tucked away in private patios, opened to public eyes for the duration of the festival.

Look a bit closer at those flowers...

Let's be clear, we aren't just talking about a few bouquets or floral tributes adding a splash of colour. Some of the Temps de Flors exhibits are on a seriously grand scale, enlivening a whole street, while others are enticingly creative. Stepping closer to view a patio wreathed in a wave of white flowers, I realised that said flowers were actually plastic cups – it's certainly one way of avoiding the wilted look of some exhibitions come the final day. Non-horticultural items are often integrated into exhibits at Temps de Flors: one popular entry featured orange bicycles, while another placed wire sculptures of animals alongside floral tributes.

Don't forget to look up

Girona goes all out for Temps de Flors, with a gastronomic strand completing the offer. As part of Gastroflors, a range of restaurants around the city offer set menus, often with a floral twist (although this isn't universal). What is universal though is the fact that they're better value than eating à la carte: 4 tapa-sized courses at divine cheese and wine bar La Simfonia set us back €18 each, while El Boira's €20 three-course menu proved a much bigger lunch than we'd bargained for. If you fancy something a little lighter, other restaurants and bars offer a special tapa during Temps de Flors. In addition to gastronomic treats, there are also free concerts which pop up at venues around the city.

Unfortunately the festival's now over for this year, but if you fancy visiting in 2016 I'd highly recommend it. It's a fresh way to see beautiful Girona, with the bonus of free entry to sights that would normally be closed to the public.

Wilted, but still pretty

Top tips for visiting Temps de Flors

Visit early in the week. Temps de Flors spans two weekends, so if possible plan yours for the first – some of the flowers were looking decidedly sad by Sunday 16 May. Even better, visit mid-week - Saturdays in particular can be crowded, with queues to visit popular exhibits such as the Arab baths.
Pick up a map. All participating venues offer a free A3-sized map with the 100-plus entries marked. There's also a summary of their 10 top picks, which this year included the Cathedral, Sant Martí church, the Arab baths and Casa Lleó Avinay. If you're more digital than print, you can download an audioguide app.
Take the train. During Temps de Flors, Renfe offers a discount on return tickets between Girona and Barcelona – this year it was 35%.
Stay overnight. Days can be overwhelmed by coach trips, and with exhibitions open until 10pm (midnight on Wednesday and Saturdays), it's worth staying over to see Temps de Flors crowd-free – and to take advantage of Gastroflors, of course. This year, the river lit up at night with illuminated floral decorations twinkling like jewels on the water.

Have you visited Temps de Flors? What's your favourite spring festival in Spain?

Temps de Flors 2016 runs from 7–15 May.

Local travel: Seeing the best of Madrid with Trip4Real

2015-05-11T10:30:00.000+02:00

Here's a preview of my latest piece for Flush the Fashion...

If you’re an independent traveller, the phrase ‘guided tour’ probably conjures up images of a busload of backpack-wearing, camera-toting tourists being shepherded round a city’s top five sights. And the guide themselves? No doubt a strident umbrella-waver feeing their flock with facts. You’ve likely observed many such scenes around the world as you sloped past, preferring to retreat to a nearby café.

Locals can show you where to take the best photos...

But by opting out of tours, are we missing out? Guide books, blogs and websites can give us pointers, but their inanimate nature can’t make up for the human touch. What if the guide wasn’t a shouty tourist board official, but a friendly local – maybe someone you’d be friends with if you met them back home? And what if they offered the tour in a group that’s less-than-bus-size – maybe even private? Well, not only does such a tour sound highly unlikely, it also sounds expensive.

Step in Trip4Real. This Barcelona-based business counts Catalan chef Ferran Adrià s one of its investors, and connects savvy European locals with travellers who expect more from a tour. Research can tell you where those top five sights are, but it can’t necessarily show you the city’s quirkiest street art, its most Instagram-worthy angles or its coolest cafés. Residents with a particular expertise or just a desire to show off their city at its best can offer tours and experiences via the Trip4Real website: from photo walks to cooking classes to country hikes. The range of activities varies from place to place but is ever-expanding, as is Trip4Real’s list of cities. And what do they all have in common? Invaluable local knowledge at a reasonable price.

For my first Trip4Real experience, I thought I’d put this local knowledge idea to the test and see what difference a personal insight makes. I skipped the tapas tours and personal shopping services in favour of a walk around my current home city, Madrid. The ‘From Madrid to Heaven’ experience is offered by lifelong resident Montse, and takes the popular local saying 'De Madrid al cielo' as a starting point for showing you what she believes to be the best of the capital city. But would her ideas teach a resident of three years anything new?

You can find the rest of the article, including the best views of Madrid and a surprisingly good tapas spot on the Plaza Mayor here.

Visiting Spain in Spring: Where to go, What to do

2015-04-27T12:30:00.000+02:00

If you take one trip to Spain, take it in spring. From the confetti-like petals of almond blossom in early spring to the beach-ready temperatures towards the end of the season, spring can do almost no wrong in Spain. Not withstanding the odd April shower, we are often blessed with warm, bright days at this time of year. And as if that wasn't enough, there's also a packed calendar of festivities to keep you entertained.

Where to go in Spring

Welcome to La Malagueta, Malaga's city beach

In short, anywhere you like. Those chilly cities in Spain's heartland have shaken off their winter frosts and their trees spring back to life; interior cities like Madrid and Seville that broil in summer languish at almost ideal temperatures. If you prefer to escape the coastal crowds, it's a good time of year to hit the beaches of the Canary Islands, the Balearics, Málaga and around Valencia. Beach weather's not always guaranteed on the peninsula, and you may not be brave enough for a dip off the Costa Brava unless you like things icy. If you're planning on taking an active holiday involving walking, cycling or horse riding, spring's a great time to do it: generally warm enough to be pleasant, but little risk of sweating buckets.

The Costa Brava is a good choice for spring breaks

Although the whole country's a good bet in spring, a few areas in Spain stand out for their festivities, notably Córdoba in May (see below) and Andalucía in general for its Semana Santa celebrations closely followed by all the fun of the fair.

Spring fiestas

Falla ready to go up in flames

Spring is a fine time to shake off the winter slump with some Spanish-style festivities. One of the first is Las Fallas, Valencia's fire-cracking, sculpture burning festival which takes place from 15–19 March each year. Fallero groups construct huge multi-coloured papier-maché figures, nowadays often representing politicians or other contemporary figures of fun. For several days these are displayed around Valencia, as locals and visitors alike tuck into paella, enjoy street parties and gawp at fire works. On the final night of the fiesta, all but the winning falla is set alight. It's an intense festival I've yet to experience: the constant noise of firecrackers and the idea of burning these elaborate works of art has so far put me off.

Semana Santa usually falls after fallas. Holy Week is celebrated around the country, with particular fervour around Andalucia and in Toledo, Valladolid and Zamora. Visiting the Caminos de Pasion towns in 2014, I was surprised to find Semana Santa a much less religious affair than I'd imagined – for most capillitas and costaleros I encountered, the celebration was far more about culture and tradition than Christianity. Obviously this is not always the case, but it certainly makes Semana Santa more accessible for those who don't consider themselves religious.

Spring means feria time

After any Semana Santa solemnity is shaken off, feria season begins. The first of these huge Andaluz parties filled with flamenco frills, sleekly-groomed horses, jugs of rebujito and fairground rides is Seville's Feria de Abril. This is also the most exclusive, with most of its casetas (marquees providing food, drink & dancing opportunities) open to members only. It's worth a visit to marvel at its grand scale, but for guiris other ferias are more welcoming. Other notable spring fairs include the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera and the Feria de Nuestra Señora del Salud in Córdoba, both in May. I'm also a big fan of small-town affairs: they can often be less commercial and more welcoming. You can find a full calendar of ferias here.

If you're more into food than frills, you may be interested in checking out the pungent Feria Nacional del Queso in the Extremaduran town of Trujillo. Conveniently timed this year to fall over the May puente from 30 April–3 May, this event showcases producers from all over Spain and features tastings, workshops and more.

May is also a fantastic month to visit Córdoba: not only is the city at its best temperature-wise, but there's a calendar of events that makes the celebrity party circuit look dull. First up is Las Cruces de Mayo from 29 April–3May, when normally nondescript crosses are dressed up in their flowery best by their hermandades (brotherhoods), hoping to win a prize. These eye-catching crosses aren't the only element of the fiesta, though – it's also an excuse to party (how unlike Spain). Brotherhoods set up bars serving drinks and tapas next to the crosses, and you'll hear live music from rock to flamenco. One floral fiesta leads to another: from 4–17 May,it's the turn of Los Patios de Córdoba. Courtyards all around the city spring into full bloom, get groomed and open to the public especially for the occasion. In true Spanish style, it's not just a visual event, but there's a programme of cultural activities and concerts to tie in with the horticultural aspect. The floral trend clearly hit Spain before the fashion world: Girona's Temps des Flors festival has now been running for 60 years. Held in mid-May, this quintessential spring event sees city monuments decorated in floral fashion, restaurants offering menus with a horticultural twist and an all-round good time on offer. Back in Córdoba, May ends with all the fun of the fair: the city's feria is one of the biggest outside Seville, and lasts a mighty ten days. You can read about my experience of Córdoba's Feria de Nuestra Señora de la Salud here.

The portada at Cordoba's fair

Other May events include the celebrations in honour of Madrid's patron saint on May 15. San Isidro pales somewhat in comparison with feria, but you'll find madrileños of all ages wandering the streets in full chulapo garb for a few days. In addition to traditional costume wearing, there are concerts at Las Vistillas, parades around the centre and it's traditional to picnic on the Pradero de San Isidro.

What to do

If the packed fiesta calendar doesn't do it for you, spring's a great time for sporting activities. The Camino de Santiago starts to fill with pilgrims after the winter lull, so if you've ever fancied hiking part of St James's Way, this is your season. Routes extend over much of Spain, but the most popular sections are those closest to Santiago, the pilgrims' goal. If you'd rather strike out alone, try the Sierra de Guadarrama outside Madrid or the Aragonese Pyranees. The mild temperatures also make for good cycling weather.

If your idea of being active involves jumping up and down to the sound of your favourite band, you're in luck. In late May, Barcelona plays host to Primavera Sound, one of Europe's biggest music festivals.

And if all that activity doesn't sound like your idea of a holiday, why not try some wine tasting? La Rioja is Spain's most famous wine producing region, and while a car's necessary to reach many vineyards, Logroño's Vinobus is the perfect solution for the vehicle-free (thanks Gee, Cassandra! for that tip!). The bus seems to only operate on Saturdays and sells out quickly, so book well in advance. If you've got your own wheels, go off the beaten track in Catalunya: well-curated site Catalunya Wine gives you the lowdown on the area's top vineyards.

Have you been to any spring fiestas? Where's your favourite place to visit in spring?

Fallas photo by Calafellvalo/Flickr.

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Catalan-speaking cities: Girona, Barcelona & Palma

2015-04-18T10:04:00.001+02:00

The month of March took me to Girona, Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca. These three cities on Spanish soil have one thing in common: an additional language. Although castellano is the most common language in Spain, there are several regional tongues spoken in different areas. These include Gallego (spoken in Galicia) and Euskadi or Basque, but the most widely-used is Català, or Catalan.

Catalunya is the region in the north-east of Spain which runs down from the French border to Alcanar, just above the Valencian Community. Currently hitting the headlines on an almost daily basis thanks to the independence dreams of its regional president Artur Mas, Catalunya has long had a stronger identity than some other areas of Spain. This could be partly down to linguistic reasons: Catalan and other regional languages were banned during Franco's regime, and have come to the fore again in recent years. Cultural activities in Catalan have increased, and there's now a bilingual Castilian-Catalan education system in Catalunya. But Catalan isn't just spoken here: regional variants Valenciano and Mallorquín are used to communicate in the Valencia region and on the Balearic islands. There's some controversy over naming and difference, but essentially a Catalan speaker and a Valenciano or Mallorquín speaker can understand each other without any problem.

Catalan is most widely spoken outside big city centres, but even in the heart of Barcelona you'll hear plenty of passers-by chatting away in the local language, and all street signs are written in Catalan. Once you reach the regions' smaller cities, towns and the countryside, you'll usually find that Catalan predominates over castellano. As a tourist, you'll still be fine with Spanish, as the vast majority of people are bilingual. Arriving in Girona, I was pleased to be momentarily mistaken for a local and managed a few transactions in Catalan, a language I've been studying since late 2014. Just 40 minutes by high-speed train from Barcelona, Girona's a stunningly photogenic little city, perfectly placed between the mountains and the sea.

Girona Cathedral, in the heart of the old town

Having seen multiple pictures of Girona's rainbow-coloured riverside houses, heard about its world-class cuisine and imagined wandering its beautifully-preserved old town, it was a wonder it took me so long to visit. The brief introduction offered by this work trip didn't disappoint: Girona is petite enough to explore in a day, but its good looks and tempting-looking restaurants showed me it merits further exploration, so a return trip has been booked.

La Pedrera: One of Gaudi's most famous designs

Catalan city number two was Barcelona, a destination that needs no introduction. A city that's as cosmopolitan as it is Catalan, Barcelona boasts gorgeous Gaudí-designed architecture, sights aplenty, a food scene that's strong on both local and world offerings – and a beach. The vibe here is much busier and more dynamic than laid-back little Girona, and its big city status has linguistic effects too. In Barcelona, Catalan and Castilian co-exist comfortably, with speakers often changing languages mid-conversation. Here, my practice was limited to listening and reading, as I interpreted the menu in cosy Bar del Pla in trendy El Born.

My final March trip was to Palma de Mallorca. The capital of the largest Balearic island and I had history: my last visit was aged 18, when I was horribly ill and ended up in hospital. Round two was much more successful and thankfully illness-free – I'd go as far as to say Palma stole my heart. I've always had a weakness for beachside cities with enticing old quarters and great restaurants (hello, Valencia!), so it was no surprise that I fell for pretty Palma. I was also pleasantly surprised to find I understood Mallorquín just as well as Catalan, despite having heard that the accent was more challenging. In Palma, you're more likely to find information and menus in Spanish than Mallorquín, and official signage is usually translated. However, in certain shops I was addressed in Mallorquín, and heard plenty of the local language spoken in the street. A visit to my employer's Palma office showed me that it's commonly used on a daily basis, with locals often choosing it over Castilian.

Bon dia, Palma!

These three cities have something else in common too: the smile you can put on locals' faces with a few simple words of Catalan. It's by no means necessary to pick up a Catalan phrase book, Spanish will suffice, but addressing someone in their local language adds an extra touch. If you're visiting any of these cities or other Catalan-speaking areas, try some of these Catalan words and phrases:

Bon dia – Good morning
Bona tarda – Good afternoon/evening
Bona nit – Good night
Adeu – Goodbye
Sisplau – Please
Graciès/Merci – Thank you
Em dic Kate / Sóc la Kate – My name's Kate / I'm Kate (swap 'la' for 'el' if male)
Molt de gust – Nice to meet you
Parles anglès? – Do you speak English?
esmorzar – breakfast
sopar – lunch
dinar – dinner
un cafè amb llet – a white coffee (café con leche)
un suc de taronja – an orange juice
vi blanc / negre – white / red wine

If you're interested in learning more, Parla.cat is an online resource run by the Institut Ramon Llul, which promotes Catalan worldwide. If you live in Catalunya, beginner-level courses are free and other levels cost very little. In Madrid, you can study Catalan for minimal outlay at the Centre Cultural Blanquerna on Calle Alcalá. As part of Catalan Culture Week from 20–27 April, they are holding a free beginner level class at 5pm on Thursday 23 April. 23 April is also both World Book Day and Sant Jordi: in Catalunya, it's traditional to gift men a book and women a rose. Centre Cultural Blanquerna is hosting many other festivities that evening to mark Sant Jordi, involving roses and books (of course), plus cava, vermut and a few other surprises. The event is free and open to all.

What's your favourite Catalan-speaking city to visit?

5 Years of Travel Blogging: Lessons Learnt

2015-04-06T12:30:00.000+02:00

I can't quite believe it's now been 5 years since the Sunday night when I sat down, decided to start a blog and didn't stand up again until the first post was online. Of course, this impulsive decision is how I ended up with the name Tales of a Brit Abroad, but that's been remedied now. Back then I certainly didn't think I'd still be putting fingers to keyboard in five years' time; I wasn't even thinking beyond post number two.

So what's changed since then? On the face of it, little apart from my blog's name and design. Oh, and I don't try and embed photos within the text of the post. Not sure what that phase was about. But in the past five years of blogging and four years of living in Spain (not concurrently), I've learnt plenty about being a blogger and about being an expat.

But before we get down to my lessons learnt, I'd like to say a heartfelt thank you to everyone who has ever read this blog, shared a post, subscribed or commented. I do this for the love of writing and sharing my experiences with everyone in the hope that someone somewhere will find it useful, amusing or entertaining. I really appreciate all the support my readers have shown me since 2010, and I hope you keep returning to Oh hello, Spain for many years to come!

Then: Posing with Madrid monuments

Lessons learnt: Blogging

1) Consider your reader

When you read blogs, do you want a thousand-word waffle peppered with pictures or a post that gets to the point, with useful information or a carefully-considered idea? Yep, the latter. At the beginning I definitely tried to do too much; now I attempt to keep to the essentials. It's still easier with some topics than others, though. As a general rule, I find that posts that range from 500–700 words are the most successful.

2) Aesthetics matter

Bright, well-lit photos of an interesting subject draw the eye in. Which means people stick around to read the words. When it comes to blogging, images are practically as important as the text. It took me a long time to grasp this one, and it's still a bit of a work in progress. Even if you don't have a swish DSLR camera, these days you can do a lot with a simple smartphone. I edit my Instagram images with free app Snapseed, and my blog photos with Picasa. Picmonkey's great for adding effects and making collages.

It's not just photos that count, though: design is key. Since I switched to a simple, clean blog design my readership has increased. If people see a cluttered page drowning in sidebar widgets and a dodgy font fighting through a coloured background, they're going to click away. I don't have the time or inclination to get involved with Wordpress at this stage in the game, so I purchased a blog template from Etsy. Minimal outlay, maximum result. If you do want to pimp up your posts or shake up your design with some DIY, this site is really helpful.

Now: Still posing with Madrid monuments

3) Do what you feel comfortable with

Some will tell you that you need a .com address to be successful, that you need to post weekly or even daily and that you need a presence on every social media channel going. I say do what works for you as long as you're (reasonably) consistent. I still haven't got round to buying that domain name, and although it definitely looks more professional, people read my blog regardless. It definitely helps to publish on the same days of the week or the month, as I found out when I was firing out two per week in the later months of 2014 (no idea how I managed that). Even if you can't commit to a regular post, I recommend scheduling your posts for certain days of the week rather than churning out a glut of entries when you have time on your hands. If one or two a month is all you have time for, that's fine if you're a hobby blogger. Just post regularly enough to keep people coming back.
In terms of social media, I think it's best to pick the two or three you feel most comfortable using and concentrating on content for those rather than spreading yourself too thinly. The ones I prefer are Twitter, Facebook and Instagram. The latter may not bring me that much traffic, but it's a way of connecting more regularly when I'm travelling – and it's fun. For the sceptics, hashtags do work – just keep them relevant.

4) It doesn't have to be personal

One thing that put me off blogging for a while was the idea that the general public would have a window onto my life. Well, it's as personal as you make it. Some feel comfortable sharing details of their family, work and relationships – and I enjoy reading posts by bloggers who do. When it comes to my own blog though, I prefer to keep it factual unless my personal experiences are really relevant, such as in the expat issues posts.

5) Blogging can bring you opportunities

I'm not talking about those offers of poor-quality sponsored posts that pile up in your inbox, but the chances to go places and meet people. Expat and travel bloggers don't get as many freebies and flashy invitations as their fashion and beauty counterparts, but I have had a few great writing opportunities through my blog, and I was recently invited to be on a panel at the Festival del Viaje y sus Culturas. When I wrote food blog Girl Eats Oxford, dining invitations came creeping in from restaurants, and I was honoured to be selected as a food correspondent for BBC Radio Oxford. Blogging can open doors you don't expect and allow you to have experiences you never imagined you would. For me, it's also been a way of making friends and meeting people: most notably, my Brit Abroad series of guest posts in 2010–2011 introduced me to Kim of Becoming Sevillana who is now a close friend, and I also have regular contact with other Spain bloggers, both online and in person.

Not so much a lesson, but something else I have learnt is that I don't want blogging and writing to be my main source of income. In the last five years, I've found a job I really enjoy and realised I like the challenges working for a large company can bring, as well as the structure and camaraderie of office life. Right now, writing is a hobby for me, but if it were to become something I depended on for finances, it may become less enjoyable. This is obviously a personal realisation, and I admire those who have the dedication and skills to turn their blogs into a business.

If you're an expat or soon-to-be year abroad student considering starting a blog, I would recommend going for it. It's a great way of sharing your adventures not just with your family and friends back home, but also with those in a similar position who can learn from your experiences. It's also a great record of your experiences for the future. Depending on who you imagine your audience to be, I'd also recommend you have a good think about your blog name before you start – learn from my mistake! This post may be helpful to new and would-be bloggers.

Thanks for reading over the past five years!

Semana Santa in Madrid: What to do

2015-03-30T13:13:00.000+02:00

Madrid is known for many things: its art galleries, its nighlife, its football teams. It is not, however, known for its Semana Santa. While parts of the rest of the country spend this week gripped by procession-watching fever, Madrid carries on doing its own thing.

If you're in Madrid this week and hoping to catch a paso or two though, fear not: a few processions do pass through the city centre. And if you're enjoying a week's holiday in the capital, there are plenty of other things going on to keep you amused.

Staying in the city

See a procession

The paparazzi couldn't get enough of Mary

If you've never experienced Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Spain before, it's worth making the effort to see a procession. It's also worth securing a spot early: make as the Spanish do and stock up on drinks and snacks. During the week, there are 13 processions in Madrid's city centre, most notably on Thursday (Jueves Santo) and Friday (Viernes Santo) evenings. Note that processions move very slowly and take several hours: this website has maps of the routes of each one so you can try to calculate the best time to arrive at your chosen spot. To find out more about Semana Santa in general, read this post. The Madrid Town Hall has set up a website specifically for Semana Santa, so if you fancy trying any more traditional activities such as concerts and exhibitions, check it out (Spanish only).

Eat torrijas

Honey-soaked torrijas with ice cream: Hello, heart attack!

During Semana Santa, it's traditional to eat torrijas, a sugar-high inducing dessert that marks the end of Lent (cuaresma). Made with bread, milk, eggs, cinnamon, honey and plenty of azúcar, this recipe came about as a way to use up hardening bread. Nowadays, you'll find torrijas on offer in cafés, pastelerias and restaurants all over the city during Semana Santa. The most famous place to tuck into torrijas is La Casa de las Torrijas (Calle Paz 4), which has been cooking up these treats since 1904. They're hearty and delicious – perfect procession-watching fuel. Other typical Semana Santa sweets include pastry flores and pestiños, although these are more common in Andalucía.

Go sightseeing

If you're a Madrid resident who's staying put for the week, use this opportunity to sightsee and visit those places that are closed at the weekend, such as the Real Fábrica de las Tapices, or those with limited opening on Saturdays and Sundays. If you're on a budget, you can find a list of museums with free entry here. It's worth bearing in mind that Patrimonio Nacional sights like the Royal Palace and Convento de las Descalzas Reales offer limited free opening times on Wednesdays, so if you usually work during the week, now's the time to visit.

Getting out of town

If the idea of staying in Madrid for the whole week is too much to contemplate, plan an easy day trip.

Traditional: Alcalá de Henares

The pretty town of Alcala de Henares

An easy bus or train ride from the capital, Alcalá de Henares is best-known as the birthplace of famous Spanish writer Miguel de Cervantes. His birthplace is open to visitors, and those interested in theatre can also book a guided tour of the Corral de Comedias, a historical theatre. The ancient university is well worth a visit too, but if you feel more like wandering than ticking off the sights, Alcalá's pretty plazas and streets won't disappoint. The town also goes in for Semana Santa in a big way, so if you'd like to get closer to a procession than you could in Madrid, check out the programme.

Relaxing: Manzanares el Real

The castle at Manzanares el Real

For some time out of the city, catch the bus from Plaza Castilla to the pretty sierra town of Manzanares el Real. With a picturesque reservoir, medieval castle and easy hill walks, Manzanares el Real is the perfect day trip when crowds become too much to handle and a breath of fresj air is needed. It's also filled with restaurants and cafés with prices that put central Madrid's to shame.

Different: La Catedral de Justo, Mejorada del Campo

Don Justo's Cathedral: A work in progress

La Sagrada Familia isn't Spain's only cathedral-in-progress: the other one can be found outside Madrid in the town of Mejorada del Campo. Rather more impressively than Gaudí's design, this place of worhsip is being constructed by one man, using only materials he finds or receives as donations. Don Justo has been working on his cathedral since 1963, with only occasional help. It's a bonkers building site of half-finished walls, staircases that lead to nowhere and roofs that only partly cover the essentials. It's also an impressive testament both to one man's faith and his building skills, and is well worth a visit. Full details here.

What will you be doing this Semana Santa?

Georgina's Year Abroad in Huesca: Part 2

2015-03-26T12:30:00.000+01:00

Back in December, Georgina Dorr shared her experiences of her first term as a language assistant in Huesca. Now two-thirds of the way through her year abroad from Exeter University, she gives us an update on life in Huesca, learning Spanish and travelling around Spain. You can also find her over at her blog The Treasured Notebook.

Where does time go?

It only seems like yesterday when I was writing the post about my first three months in Spain and how I was just settling in. Flashforward three months and I’m two thirds through my year. How did that happen?!

So, an update.

I’m still loving my Year Abroad, and although there’s the odd moment of sadness and home sickness, it’s very rare and overall I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. I really feel settled in Huesca, and am still getting on wonderfully with my housemates. Six months of living together and not a bad word has been said, if only student living in Exeter was this easy!

Exploring what's on her doorstep: Castillo de Montearagon

As for my Spanish, it’s slowly getting there! Some days are better than others and one moment I feel like I’m really there and understand it all, then someone mentions something that leaves me dumbstruck (but that happens to me in English too!). But overall, I’ve improved leaps and bounds since my first day here when I sheepishly muttered ‘Soy Georgie’ and hoped for the best.

In my last post I mentioned that I accidentally signed up for an Economics Masters, and I’m very proud of the fact that I completed the course! It was Economics from a touristic perspective, which was right up my street with my love for travel so I really enjoyed it. 5 hour lectures will make returning to lectures in Exeter next year so much easier, but I actually really enjoyed the module and learned loads, both Spanish-wise and Economics-wise.

Wine tasting with fellow auxiliares in La Rioja

As my course finished in January, I decided to fill my Wednesday afternoons with something else productive, so have started Salsa classes! I have never been any good at dancing and have absolutely no coordination so it’s interesting to say the least, but it’s great fun, as well as being a good place to meet people my own age and to practise some Spanish.

Visiting Sevilla - girl after my own heart!

Although perhaps my favourite past time of them all is travelling, and I’ve so far spent three weekends in Huesca since arriving in September – having the whole of Spain on my doorstep is just far too tempting! Since my last post, I’ve visited Barcelona, Logroño, Bilbao, Sevilla and also hopped on a plane to both Munich and Paris. You’ve just got to make the most of having friends living in amazingly cool places for Erasmus!

For me, travelling is a massive part of my Year Abroad and I just love nothing more than discovering somewhere new and exciting. With Fridays off work too it’s just so easy and an opportunity that I probably won’t have again.

Inside Sagrada Familia

Speaking of work, I’m still enjoying teaching and wouldn’t rule it out as a career. I prefer teaching the little kids and I’m really enjoying seeing them improve throughout my time here. In September, my Primero de Infantil class couldn’t even say ‘hello’, and this week we taught them about The Beatles and they all recited The Beatles’ names and their songs. It definitely makes the teaching worth it. (I also quite enjoy the power of marking speaking exams!)

Snowboarding in the Pyrenees

So overall, my Year Abroad is still going swimmingly, and with less than three months left, I’m trying to squeeze in as much as I possibly can. I’ve spent the last few weekends really exploring Huesca as a region as I said before, it’s really underrated. Huesca boasts two beautiful castles – Montearagón and Loarre, which are both absolute gems. I also ticked a major thing off my Bucket List this term, and learned how to snowboard in the Pyrenees. The opportunities that the Year Abroad scheme throws at you are incredible, and I’d advise everyone to take a year out.

I’ll report back at the end of my year, hopefully I’ll be fluent in Spanish and quite the Salsa expert by then!

Caminos de Pasión: Semana Santa in small-town Andalucía

2015-03-13T09:41:00.001+01:00

Being from a country where traditional festivals have all but died out or become so commercialized they bear no resemblance to the original event, Spain's fiestas fascinate me. It's no secret I'm a fan of feria, and I'll attend any saint's day going (although you won't catch me running with any bulls or getting involved in a tomato fight any time soon). However, until 2014 I hadn't really engaged with one of the country's biggest events: Semana Santa.

A paso begins its journey in Carmona

Easter is taken much more seriously in Spain than in the UK, with its supermarket shelves of chocolate eggs distributed by the Easter Bunny. Semana Santa (Holy Week) retains a strong religious link, with towns and cities around the country (notably in Andalucía, Toledo, Valladolid and Zamora) hosting processions of pasos (huge wood and metal platforms) topped with biblical figures, often intricately adorned and bedecked with candles. As someone who isn't remotely religious, I was never quite sure about Semana Santa: what would it mean to me?

In 2014, Caminos de Pasión invited me to experience Semana Santa in the eight Andalucian towns that make up its route: Alcalá la Real, Baena, Cabra, Carmona, Lucena, Osuna, Priego de Córdoba and Puente Genil. These small towns provided a unique insight into Semana Santa: the cultural and traditional implications; the way the festival weaves itself into the fabric of local life. Through meeting members of cofradías of all ages, both men and women, I learned that Holy Week is more than a religious ceremony. It's an event of huge cultural significance, a social opportunity, a shared experience that has the ability to unite a community, even if just for a few days.

Starting young: Nazarenas in Priego

In the Caminos de Pasión towns, it's also much more fun than I had imagined. Yes, there's pomp and ceremony; there are solemn moments such as the poignantly silent night-time processions. However, there's also a riot of colour, notably so in Baena with its red-blazered drummers in their feather-topped helmets, and noise – the characteristically Spanish soundtrack of chatter overlayed with the blast of a marching band. Add in high emotions and a high calorie count from traditional Easter dulces such as honey-soaked torrijas and pastry flores and you have a sensory feast.

Flores: A Spanish Easter treat

In this article for Flush the Fashion, I explain more about Semana Santa and its traditions, as well as the experience of visiting the Caminos de Pasión towns. Here's an extract to whet your appetite:

The heady waft of incense hits you first. Then you notice the relative hush settle over the expectant crowd. Next, it’s the distant bang of the drums and the strident notes of the brass band starting up. The guiding cross and its bearer step into view. The procession is beginning.

No matter where in Spain you find yourself during Semana Santa, or Holy Week, this will be how most processions start. A tradition observed mainly in the southern region of Andalucía and certain pockets around the country (including Valladolid and Zamora), processions during Easter week involve members of local brotherhoods carrying ornate figurines of Jesus, the Virgin Mary and sometimes other saints and biblical characters around the town’s official route. If this sounds deeply dull or irrelevant to all but the most devout, throw in crowds of hundreds (or even thousands), from newborns to the elderly; a marching band or two; rich cultural traditions, and above all some Spanish passion, and it may start to sound more inspiring. And if that doesn’t move you, maybe the night-time fiestas that often accompany Semana Santa celebrations might.

You can read the rest of the article and see more photos here.

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Semana Santa 2014: Holy Week in Andalucia (photo post)
Semana Santa 2014: Saturday in Seville

February Travels: One night in Lleida, two in Utrera

2015-03-05T12:30:00.000+01:00

I have a tendency to return to old haunts. My affection for Andalucía sees me journeying down south more than I do up north. But it's more than just familiarity that pulls me back to places: so many Spanish cities have charmed me with a taster visit and drawn me back in for more.

Lleida by night

This may prove to be the case with Lleida, a pint-sized Catalan city I had no expectations of. Work rather than choice took me there in February, a month when the mercury often drops below zero at night and the famous cathedral is commonly shrouded in Lleida's characteristic mist. Armed with only the information that the aforementioned cathedral – La Seu Vella – was beautiful and that Lleida smelled of cows (I'll leave you to judge on that one if you've ever visited), I rolled off the AVE and into town.

La Seu Vella, Lleida

Business trips don't often allow much time for sightseeing (funny that), but even a post-7pm arrival time and the damp chill in the air didn't put me off hitting Lleida's casco antiguo. With a population of around 140,000, Lleida (also known by its castellano name of Lérida) is pretty petite, but it's the provincial capital and one of inland Cataluña's biggest cities. The old town was easily walkable; its smart streets lined with a good selection of shops and broken up by a scattering of pretty plaças. The real highlight, even from the exterior, was La Seu Vella, one of two cathedrals in town. Perched atop a hill, La Seu Vella lords it over Lleida and is spectcularly illuminated at night. Reached either from Pla dels Gramatics (the easier way, although it is in a bit of a dodgy barrio) or via a lift from Carrer Canyet, the 'old' cathedral sits behind defensive castle walls, adding to its imposing position. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries on the site of a mosque, it's impressive from the outside, with carved doorways, windows onto the cloisters and a staggeringly high bell tower. The interior is meant to be equally beautiful, giving me a good reason to return and explore.

Outside La Seu Vella

Following a local tip, the rest of the evening was spent in city-centre Restaurant Aggio, a friendly pizzeria and braseria. Serving a range of local and regional specialities at a decent price, it's worth a visit. The decor may be a little tired but the food's decidedly fresh: a platter of seasonal grilled vegetables and octopus cut and seasoned in front of us didn't disappoint. One night in Lleida was enough to whet my appetite to return one day: a world-class cathedral, a friendly low-key atmosphere and the chance to practice una mica de català are all fine by me. I'll just return when the temperature's a bit more inviting.

From a city with a small-town feel to a little town with a big heart, my next trip was to Utrera. I mentioned last month that the tricky part of the #take12trips challenge would be visiting new places. Well, although Lleida fit the bill, Utrera decidedly didn't. Small-town Sevilla at its finest, Utrera is home to one of my best friends and this weekend break was my eighth visit there. Around half an hour from central Sevilla on the cercanías, it's a pretty little place with an Arab castle, plenty of churches, a lively central square... and an abundance of great bars. Not just of the tapas variety.

Lovely Utrera

Long referred to by Vicki and myself as 'the party capital of Andalucía', Utrera's livelier than most small towns. Its bustling bar scene isn't just a night-time fixture: things get going with a pre-lunch tipple at Bar Carlos on Calle Corredera before moving on to the town's various tapas spots. My tried-and-tested favourites include gourmet Besana (although the pescetarian choices are a bit limited), Abuela María which has the bonus of a lovely terrace, and Doña Juana, to name but a few. Tapas are generally priced between €2 and €3.50, which is a welcome relief after Madrid's expensive raciones.

You'd think by the eighth visit to a small town there would be nothing new to see. Well, welcome to Utrera. I hit up two new (to me) tapas bars, traditional El Arco and chic El Caballo Blanco, but most memorably of all, I was introduced to the concept of salir de día (going out during the day). In England, this would be reserved for alcoholics and football fans, but in Utrera it's a family-friendly option (as long as you're happy to let the little ones entertain themselves a bit, that is). The Carlos-tapas circuit continued with a 5pm visit to Taberna Gómez Mier, a spit-and-sawdust tavern with fortified wines in dusty barrels and a bring your own food policy that sees it packed to the rafters. A swift vermouth led to another, and before we knew it a table of locals had erupted into raucous flamenco accompanied by top-volume clapping. ¡Viva Andalucía! Tavern led to tapas to a gig in a local bar and we were home before midnight. See, even Cinderella would salir de día.

So it turns out you don't necessarily have to visit somewhere new to experience something new. And if it involves traditional taverns and more visits to Andalucía, I'm OK with that.

A visit to El Valle de los Caídos

2015-02-23T20:09:00.000+01:00

Hoping not to be overheard, I almost whispered my destination. 'El Valle?' the bus driver almost yelled back, his eyes wide with surprise.

El Valle de los Caidos: Spain's most controversial monument

Such is the infamy of the Franco-commissioned monument El Valle de los Caídos (the Valley of the Fallen) that it doesn't appear on the bus timetable, even though I was reliably informed that it was on the route. On the approach to El Escorial in the sierra outside Madrid, El Valle was constructed under the former dictator's orders as a memorial to those who fell in the Civil War. Work began in 1940, and the idea was that it would serve as a final resting place for victims from both sides. However, there are estimated to be far more soldiers from the Nationalist (or Franco's) side than Republicans, although exact figures are unknown. This is just one reason why El Valle is incredibly controversial.

It took almost 20 years to build the huge Basilica of the Holy Cross into the rock mountain face, and to top it with a huge cross that's visible from miles around – even as you land at Madrid Barajas airport on a clear day. During this gruelling process (building something of this scale into rock can't exactly be easy), a number of prisoners of war who were working on the construction died. I say a number: what little information is out there varies wildly, sometimes depending on the political persuasion of the author. Once El Valle was finally completed, more bodies began to be moved there, as mass graves around the country were exhumed and the dead reburied at El Valle. This is another sore point, as many families of Republican soldiers were against their relatives calling this pet project of Franco's their final resting place. In a further twist, Franco himself and Primo de Rivera, the founder of the Falange Española (Spanish Fascist Party) are both now buried inside the Basilica. In the past few years, suggestions have been made that their bodies should be moved to another site.

Inside the basilica at El Valle

So controversial is the monument that several years ago it was closed to the public for a time. Now reopened (although you can no longer go up to the base of the cross), it's a sight that divides opinion. Its absence from the bus timetable is telling; some of the reactions I received to my visit plainly highlighted that even the subject of this monument can still cause a lot of pain. The best reaction I received was puzzlement. As a foreigner who's interested in Spanish culture, I was spared the accusation of being a fascist, but I know this insult has been levelled at others who have visited. However, that interest in the culture and history of the country where I live is what drove me to visit: unfortunately, we can't skip over history's unsavoury chapters, and I wanted to see El Valle de los Caídos with my own eyes.

On a warm autumn day, Kim of Becoming Sevillana and I set out for the sierra. El Valle is accessible from Madrid by bus 664 from Moncloa, but what its's website makes clear is that it's a 6km walk uphill from the entrance to the monument. Seeing no alternative, we weren't deterred by this, but in hindsight it would be a better idea to take the bus to El Escorial and then a taxi from there to the monument if you don't have your own wheels. After almost an hour in the heat, we made a half-hearted attempt to hitch-hike: not something I'd normally do, but as we were off public roads and exhausted we thought it was worth a shot. We were picked up by a maintenance man in a van who was rather puzzled by the pair of day-tripping guiris on foot, but thanks to him we saw a little more than the average visitor, including accommodation for workers and visiting priests.

Finally arriving in front of the basilica, we were staggered by the scale of the huge cross that had been guiding us uphill. At 152.4 metres, this is the tallest memorial cross in the world. The entrance to the church itself is stark and imposing, but once you get inside, you really appreciate the huge effort that went into its construction. It's a chilling place, both literally and metaphorically. The high vaulted ceilings and hushed atmosphere make it almost overwhelming. Those familiar with the ornate adornments of Catholic churches in Spain, which are almost crowded with chapels, pews and carvings, will be surprised by the almost stark nature of the basilica. It's a windowless space, which makes it a rather creepy place to visit.

Far from warm and welcoming...

On our walk around the basilica, we were struck by the number of happy, smiling tourists, as though this was just an average day trip. Families, babies in pushchairs, young students, well-dressed elderly people: many sectors of society were represented on that sunny Saturday. We understood our own motivations for making the journey, but wondered about some of the other visitors. Was this a fun day out for them? Or were they too trying to get to grips with Spain's history? Were some even making a sort of pilgrimage?

The graves of both Franco and Primo de Rivera lie in a prominent position at the top of the nave, where any visitor can walk over them, something I found both surprising and poignant. Do some people come here just to trample over the man who trampled their country for decades?

Back in daylight, we admired the beautiful views of the sierra and made use of the picnic tables, pondering the significance of this curious monument. A historical event; a tourist attraction – El Valle is a paradox. But given the number of people wandering around the complex, it's a well-visited one. Interestingly, when I told my international friends of my visit, none of them had heard of El Valle. I chose not to tell many Spanish friends, concerned about being judged. I may have been wrong to do so, but the bus driver's reaction was enough to instil some Catholic guilt in me for wanting to witness El Valle for myself. And I'm not even a Catholic.

Kim embracing the hike (which we don't recommend)

Is it worth a visit? Yes. If you want to go deeper into Spain's history and try to understand what makes this place so controversial, you should see El Valle for yourself.

This account is a personal one rather than a historical one. As I mention above, sources vary a great deal regarding the facts surrounding El Valle's construction and those buried there. For more historical information, I recommend this excellent post on Spanish Sabores.

Have you visited El Valle? If not, would you?

The details
El Valle de los Caídos is currently open Tues–Sun from 10am–6pm in winter and until 7pm in summer.
Entry is €9. Also included in the Patrimonio Nacional bonos (multiple site tickets).
Parking is available for those who drive (recommended). There is also an on-site café.