Tales Of A Nomad...!!

Murud Beach...!!

2013-06-14T08:37:00.001+05:30

Murud beach, Maharashtra. May 2013.

Amidst a Sea of Blue...!!

2013-06-11T10:35:00.000+05:30

Padmadurg fort (Kasa fort), Murud, Maharashtra. May 2013.

Alibaug- Beyond the Beach...!!

2013-06-06T12:09:00.002+05:30

Alibaug is a cliched place as every other person in Mumbai has this beach destination as their first weekend option. For non- mumbaiites like myself, Alibaug has always been an exciting beach destination. However I wanted to explore beyond the beach and after a lot of research, Alibaug itinerary had quite a few places besides the beach. A fort, a synagogue, a 900 feet high temple and the colonial remains at Revdanda formed the list of places to explore.

The journey began with an early morning rickshaw ride to Kanakeshwar temple, 13 kilometers from Alibaug. We were advised at our hotel to leave as early as possible as the climb would get tough once the sun was out in its full vigour. Situated on a hill at a height of 900 feet above sea level, the Shiva temple has an ascend of 5000 feet. The climb initially was quite moderate but we were easily deceived by the hill top. Every time we looked up, there was some board or a resting place which made us feel we reached the top, but on reaching there we had to laugh at ourselves and climb further. The paved pathway is in fact over a couple of hills before it ends at the temple. The path has well laid steps which turned steep at certain places making our climb difficult. However, the aerial views got better with hills and greenery all across as we went higher. A noticeable fact was that there were hardly any people hiking up to the temple. We met a couple of people descending but otherwise it was just the two of us. Half way through our rickshaw driver caught up with us and gave us company till the top and all the way down. The place is also quite thickly vegetated with lots of trees on either sides. It was just nature, chirping birds and us during the climb to the top. There are also a couple of small shrines on the way. After a long tiring climb of more than an hour we reached the top to find the main shrine also to be devoid of any devotees. There were a couple of temple authorities who wandered around. After taking the blessings we walked around and found a couple of pilgrims who were residing on top of the hill. There are also a couple of small tea shops next to the temple. The whole place was so serene and peaceful with very few people, absolutely no sound and majestic vistas from the fringes of the hill. The trek down was easier and we were back in the rickshaw in 45 minutes.

The path that leads to Kanakeshwar temple

Beautiful vistas

Well paved pathway to the temple

A stepped well en route to the temple

Main entrance to the temple

Kanakeshwar temple

From Kanakeshwar temple we went to the brightly coloured Bet El Synagogue. The rickshaw took us through the narrow alleys of Alibaug and came to a halt in front of the pink painted Synagogue in Israel lane. Another deserted place of worship. Except for an old Jew who was lost in his prayers, there was no other soul in the vicinity. The Synagogue looked beautiful with its external architecture and captivating with its internal glass works.

The Synagogue

The famous Alibaug beach was the next destination where we got dropped off by our guide cum driver who had been with us since morning. Even though the beach looked dirty with litter all over, its vastness is what attracted me and kept me engaged. Being the peak of summer, the water had receded quite a lot and the beach had become sluggish. The ubiquitous tiny crabs was the other attraction on the beach. Even though it was mid noon, people were loitering around and children were having fun on the beach.

Alibaug beach

The biggest eye catcher on Alibaug beach was the Kolaba fort. It only seemed a few hundred meters away from us, but since the beach was not very conducive for a wade across the waters, we opted for a boat ride. However the boat ride also did not happen as the water was very shallow. Now the only option left was a bumpy tonga (horse cart) ride wading through the sea waters to the fort. I had doubts about the cart getting stuck in the sands but the horses gleefully pulled us into the waters and took us to the fort.

Kolaba fort

Kolaba fort (also known as Alibaug fort) which gets secluded like an island during high tide was ruled by the Maratha ruler, Shivaji. This 17th century fort was used by Maratha admiral Kanhoji Angre as the naval base to fight the British. The tall fort walls and a big gateway at the entrance makes this a very attractive fort by the sea. However the inside of the fort looked dilapidated. The fort houses ruins of residences and offices of the Maratha army, a few temples, a huge pond, tomb of a sufi saint, a couple of canons and many bastions which were used during attacks. Vistas from the top of the fort walls looked stunning with the expansive sea and the distant horizon. After walking around the fort and gazing at the vistas in the hot sun we got back to our tonga for a water ride to the mainland.

Fort walls and bastions

Entrance of the fort

Remains inside the fort

Inside the fort

A temple inside the fort

An exit into the sea

Canons

A view from the fort

From the main attractions we decided to go the less trodden paths and ended up at Chaul near Revdanda. Chaul, 16 kms from Alibaug is an old Portuguese settlement which boasts of exciting places for the traveller. We had an hour to rush through whatever possible we could see before the sun went down. Our new guide, another rickshaw driver took us through a neglected Hammam khana (royal bath) , an old but still active church, Revdanda fort and Revdanda beach. The 16th century fort built by the Portuguese by the beach is completely in ruins. However there is one single tall tower that still stands along with the fort ramparts amidst coconut plantations. Sunset on Revedanda beach was a riot of colours. We had to miss out on Korlai fort, Datta temple, Rameshwar temple and Buddhist caves in Chaul-Revdanda due to shortage of time.

Hammam Khana

Remains of the fort

Revdanda beach as seen from the fort

Alibaug as a destination has definitely grown beyond the beach and there are lots more to explore on this beach hamlet. Islands of Khanderi and Underi, the beaches of Varsoli, Akshi and Kihim and a few other temples are the other attractions of Alibaug.

Signing Note- Alibaug has transformed from a weekend getawy to a traveller's delight...!!

Distance- 100 Kms (by road from Mumbai)
20 Kms (from Mandwa to Alibaug after a one hour boat ride from Mumbai to Mandwa)

The Long Way Home...!!

2013-06-03T16:47:00.003+05:30

Rayalseema, Andhra Pradesh. March 2013.

Nagaon Beach- Mini Goa...??

2013-05-28T11:08:00.004+05:30

I was roaming around in the Raigad district of Maharashtra and was on my way back to Mumbai when I casually asked my auto rickshaw driver if there were any beautiful places to see around. He named a few places, most of which I had already visited and the rest were too far. The last place to pop out of his mouth was Nagaon beach. He called it Mini Goa and when I enquired for the reason, he was quick to mention about the water sport facilities and other activities there. Nagaon beach is also the third most popular beach in Raigad after Alibaug and Kashid. No second thoughts and I headed there.

I was not convinced about the mini Goa tag even as I got out of the rickshaw and walked to the shady trees. That is something I loved at the first sight. Lots of trees where you can sit under and stare at those blue waters. Blue waters? When I had a closer look, the water was not all that blue. It was murky and brown, at least the water that waved into the sandy beach was. This is something that I found in Alibaug beach too. Probably it is because of summers and the water had receded a bit.

It was mid noon and those trees were the apt place to sit, sip a beer and enjoy the vistas (Beer being easily available near the beach could be another reason for the tagline). The clear blue sky, the long and expansive sands, the blue waters in the distance and the odd para-sailor/ camel/ horse cart made for a lovely landscape. The beach is quite long and the waters are quite far off. The sand displayed different shades from white to dark chocolate across the beach. The distinguished colouring made the beach look all the more attractive. The brown sands blended so beautifully with the blue sky. Undoubtedly it is the sands that attracted me more than the waters on this beach. The place also seemed quite free of litter. Sunset on the expansive Nagaon beach would definitely be a mind soothing experience.

As my driver had mentioned, the beach indeed had a lot of activities like para-sailing over the waters, horse carts for the kids, camel rides and water scooters. Surprisingly for a hot and humid day there were quite a few people exploring the beach. The beating sun made me sit under the trees and those activities had to be given a miss. Evenings would be the ideal time to explore those vast sands, the low tides and you can finish off with a camel ride. After enjoying the lovely landscapes for a couple of hours I was back in the rickshaw.

The mini Goa tagline might not be very appropriate for Nagaon beach but the glimpses of it being one very soon is definitely there. Though there are no shacks right on the beach, a few of them are there just before you enter the sands. As far as activities are concerned, they did remind me a bit of Baga and Calangute. Travellers from Mumbai can now think beyond Alibaug and Kashid for their weekend options.

Signing Note- Definitely a mini Goa in the making...!!

Route- Alibaug- Akshi- Nagaon

Distance- 10 Kms

Haji Ali Dargah...!!

2013-05-21T12:16:00.002+05:30

The only time I had seen Haji Ali Dargah, that too from a distance was when my taxi sped past its silhouette during a late evening (http://rajniranjandas.blogspot.in/2011/04/hue.html). Sun was about to retire for the day and the dargah in the distance looked gorgeous against the orange background.

However this time I walked to the islet to visit the beautiful Indo Islamic architecture called Haji Ali Dargah. It is half a kilometer walk from the coast along the causeway to the dargah. It was crowded as it has always been and the tides were not very calm. Vendors were selling everything from flowers to eateries and it was a shoulder rubbing walk all the way. People asking for alms with held out hands were quite frequently seen. Summer was at its peak and the local kids enjoyed the heat by jumping into those brown waters. The saline waters thrashed on to the causeway and kept flowing over it to the other side all along. There are restrictions on entry when the tides are high. People throng into this dargah in huge numbers irrespective of their religion and that is the best part that I liked about Haji Ali.

It was quite crowded inside the Dargah too and after a quick blessing from the saint I came out to have a cup of tea. The walk back was a content one. I have always wanted to visit this dargah every time I was in Mumbai. A visit during the evenings when the sun sets would be a lovely experience.

Haji Ali Dargah was built in AD 1431 in the memory of Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, a Muslim saint whose body peacefully sleeps inside.

Signing Note- A Dargah that charms you with faith...!!

Location- Near Worli, Mumbai

Juhu Beach...!!

2013-05-17T11:52:00.000+05:30

A colourful and crowded evening at Juhu Beach, Mumbai. May 2013.

Haziness...!!

2013-05-13T14:19:00.000+05:30

Marine drive, Mumbai. May 2013.

Gateway of India...!!

2013-05-09T17:44:00.002+05:30

Gateway of India, Mumbai. May 2013

Vythiri- The Gateway to Wild Wayanad...!!

2013-04-29T14:31:00.001+05:30

The title might not sound apt for people travelling from Bangalore or Mysore to Wayanad as Vythiri would be the last stoppage before going down the hills. But for travellers from Cochin, Kozhikode and other places from Kerala, Vythiri is the gateway to heavenly Wayanad. From the bustling roads of Kozhikode I rode past the small towns of Koduvally and Adivaram on an early morning in October to enter the Thamarassery ghats.

Mist, waterfalls, blue hills, lush green surroundings and bonnet macaques welcomed me as I rode into Vythiri. The black tarmac was splendid all the way with nine hair pin bends and the views from some of them were breathtaking. The lush green valley and distant hills looked surreal. With mist hovering over the roads, visibility was limited to a few meters only. It also made the ride a chilly one.

The misty green and dark thamarassery ghats

I had a break at the first hair pin bend, where there is a small shack which sells fruits like mango, pineapple, gooseberry dipped in salt water. The stall also serves hot tea, coffee, different varieties of eggs and many more. To have had a sip of coffee, a hot spicy duck omelet and some mangoes on that misty morning gaping at the scenic vistas was one of the memorable moments during the ride.

The first hair pin bend

The shack at the first hair pin bend

Soon I was back on the winding 14 km ghat road going past the loitering monkeys, honking vehicles, chirping birds and cicadas to be engulfed by the mist and to fill my lungs with fresh air. The green canopy is present during most of the distance and that gives the feel of a forest ride. The forest cover clears up only in some places giving way to mind blowing vistas. Small shacks also pop up in between with the views of the valley and they definitely are the best places to take a coffee break.

Misty ghat roads

A Bonnet Macaque

One of the nine hair pin bends

Vythiri view point is where the lovely ghats come to an end before entering Wayanad district. This view point blew me off my feet with its magnificent offerings. The first hairpin bend where I had my break was visible from the view point despite the heavy mist. The expansive valleys and the green canopy makes this place a captivating one. I was wonder struck for a long time gazing at the scenic beauty of the Thamarassery ghats.

The ghats

Misty view of the first hair pin bend

Vythiri does not offer a lot to the visitors besides the brilliant vistas and Pookote lake. However immediately after entering Wayanad district, keep an eye to your left. You will see a ficus tree by the road that has a chain wound around it. The chain tree holds a lot of significance in Wayanad's history. Legend says that the spirit of a tribal by the name Karinthandan has been chained to the tree after it started troubling travellers on this route. Supposedly the tribal helped a Britisher to reach Wayanad after crossing the treacherous forest hills. However to claim that he had discovered the place, the Britisher killed the tribal. The spirit of the tribal troubled people travelling on that route ever since till he was chained to the tree by a priest. It was a different experience to stop by and pay homage to Karinthandan.

Chain Tree

From the chained spirit, I rode to the famous Pookote lake, a couple of kilometers from Vythiri. It is a detour from the main road to the left and there are enough sign boards to guide you there. Pookote lake looked serene and placid with the beautiful green background and dark clouds. It was about to pour when I reached the lake. The lake is also known for its boating facilities and there is also a small park and a souvenir shop next to it. As it began to drizzle I rode further ahead and was welcomed by tea estates and forests into the wild Wayanad.

Pookote lake

For people travelling from Bangalore and Mysore, Vythiri would be the last stop on your Wayanad itinerary before hitting the ghats on your way down. There are numerous resorts and other stay options in Vythiri to make your stay comfortable.The vistas, the ghats and the Pookote lake makes Vythiri one of the best locations in Wayanad which you should not miss out on. Though it is misty and cold during the months from October to February, the best views are experienced during the summers when the mist clears and valley spreads out before your eyes.

Signing Note- Absolutely Captivating and Breathtakingly Beautiful...!!

Route-

Kozhikode- Kunnamangalam- Koduvally- Thamarassery- Adivaram- Vythiri (65 Kms)

Bangalore- Mysore- Sulthan Bathery- Kalpeta- Vythiri (290 Kms)

Pregnant Clouds and a Sensuous Lake...!!

2013-04-25T10:18:00.001+05:30

Pookote Lake, Wayanad. Octiober 2012.

The Valley View...!!

2013-04-22T19:10:00.000+05:30

It would be blissful to stay in that house and wake up to those breathtaking vistas every morning. Coonoor, August 2011.

Talakona Waterfalls- A Hidden Secret...!!

2013-04-15T12:14:00.000+05:30

Most part of the drive from Bangalore was through state highways, dusty side ways, tiny villages, dried up lake beds, brown fields, dying sunflowers, leafless trees, red earth, big boulders, cattle and other interesting landscapes. Summer had set in and the Rayalseema region of Andhra Pradesh was showing signs of a harsh one ahead. We were heading to Nallamala Hills, a part of the Eastern ghats which looked green in patches. Talakona waterfalls situated in the Sheshachalam range of the Nallamala hills was the destination. Nestled deep inside the forest within Shri Venkateshwara wildlife reserve, the falls drop from a height of 270 feet and is the highest waterfalls in Andhra Pradesh. The place is also quite well known for its rich flora and fauna. Tirupathi, a famous pilgrim place is very close to these falls.

This eco project of Andhra Pradesh Tourism invites you with a nice little temple at the foothills of the falls. There are numerous monkeys loitering around who are ready to flick your things if not careful. There is a small pond near the entrance and being a sunday, the place was crowded with kids and families splashing around. From there a narrow walkway led us to the falls and we had a first glimpse of Talakona after 15 minutes.

Children merry making at the pond

Pathway to the falls

The first glimpse

As we approached the falls, the sound of water thrashing on to the rocks was quite audible. The first glimpse made me sigh as I felt water was less and would be just trickles all over. I was however wrong when the whole falls came into sight. Yes, the water was not at its fullest, but the sight of the cascading falls was breathtaking. There was enough water and there was more than enough tourists, all excited to get under those cool waters. The falls has one big fall and then it cascades over many rocks as it flows down into the forest valley. The magnificent fall of the waters was a real stunner. It was crowded at the bottom of the falls and we were thinking whether to get under them or not when we spotted people taking bath at a higher tier, under the first big fall.

The big fall

Cascading waters

We trekked further up and the sound of water thrashing and people howling became so obvious as we neared it. Thankfully it was less crowded there. The rocks near the falls were quite slippery and you just have a chain rope to cling on while you walk to the base of the falls. It was not a trickle that was falling down as it seemed from far. It was a thunderous experience to stand under those gushing waters and enjoy the feel of being thrashed by the force of them. I could hardly look up and when I did for a second, all that I could see were droplets falling through the sun rays. Absolutely an overwhelming experience!

The big fall

It was getting painful after a while as the force of the water was getting stronger and our bodies found it tough to take. We all turned red by the time we came out of it. After a precarious walk over the slippery rocks we walked back. This place would be flooded during the monsoon and that would be a totally different experience. I am not sure whether one can get under the falls at the higher tier during the rains as chances of getting washed away with the waters are quite high. During the monsoons or immediately after that, the best place to get yourself a waterfall bath would be under the cascading falls. There is also a trek route all the way to the top of the falls. The views from there are supposedly exhilarating. It is advised to take guides along when trekking all the way up.

Signing Note- An enthralling falls set inside an engulfing forest...!!

Route- Bengaluru- Hoskote- Chintamani- Madanapalle- Vayalpadu- Pileru- Bakharapeta- Talakona

Distance- 240 Kms

Standstill...!!

2013-04-12T10:25:00.000+05:30

From a street in Allahabad. February 2013

Jain Temples of Wayanad...!!

2013-04-09T09:50:00.000+05:30

It was recently that I had my knowledge updated on the spread of Jainism in Wayanad. Though Jains are very sparsely populated across Kerala, Jainism has quite a prominence in Wayanad and this can be seen from the numerous Jain temples spread across the district. Jainism ventured into Kerala in the 12th century and many temples that you see in Wayanad are a proof of the same. However the decline was quite soon from the 16th century onward. There has been many reasons behind their decline and the main ones seem to be the resurgence of Vaishnavism and Shaivism and the attacks of Tipu Sulthan. Over a period of time many got converted into Hindu temples while the other remained

Inner sanctum

There are numerous Jain temples on the Kalpetta- Mananthavady road, most of which remain dilapidated and neglected. The Jain temple in Sulthan Bathery remains the most famous of the lot and is also considered one of the most important temples of the Jains in Kerala. The 13th century Jain temple in Sulthan Bathery is quite well maintained and is a beautiful remnant of Jainism in Wayanad. This Basadi (Jain temple) also played a big role during the historical times as an ammunition for Tipu Sulthan. It is also sometimes referred to as Tipu's fort for the same reason.

Jain Basadi at Sulthan Bathery

The Basadi has been beautifully built with wonderful architecture and carved pillars. The inner sanctum has a carving of Mahavir Jain. There is also a raised platform with chiseled pillars in front of the main sanctum. Though most of it is in ruins, efforts have been made by the authorities to the maintain the temple. However the case is not the same with other Jain Basadis of Wayanad. They look dilapidated due to negligence and need to be given given attention. The beautiful architecture and engravings are covered with bushes and over grown creepers. Hopefully the concerned authorities would look into it and maintain them as beautifully as the one in Sulthan Bathery.

Signing Note- Ruined, dilapidated, neglected...yet beautiful...!!

Location- Sulthan Bathery and Kalpetta- Mananthavady road.

The Waterfalls of Thusharagiri...!!

2013-04-05T10:04:00.001+05:30

I was riding through Wayanad when Thusharagiri beckoned (Thusharam- white snow, giri- hill). I have heard the name many times before but never been to it. Kerala tourism has made it an eco tourism project with a lot of trekking options besides the falls. Visitors inflow has also been on the higher side ever since. The falls which were earlier visited only by the locals and people from Kozhikode now attracts visitors from other places too.

After an enjoyable misty ride through the curvaceous Thamarassery ghats, I took a deviation from Adivaram to Thusharagiri. The next 10 kms was through narrow roads lined with rubber, arecanut and spice plantations . It was green and misty everywhere. Large hills loomed up at every corner and the ride was blissful through the lap of nature.

I was surprised to find myself as the first visitor of the day. Even the information centre was not open when I reached Thusharagiri eco tourism project at 9 am. It was a small walk past a couple of tiny water trickles to reach first of the many falls, Erattumukku waterfalls. Two rivulets join here to form River Chalippuzha and hence the name Erattumukku. If not keen on trekking, this is the only falls one can enjoy. There is a hanging bridge in front of the waterfalls from where one can get a good vista of the falls and if you turn around, it is a carpet of greenery everywhere. Cascading from a good height, the waterfalls look gorgeous even from a distance. It very much seemed like white snow sliding along the black rock background. One can walk across to the falls and have a thunderous bath under it. With no soul in the vicinity I was not sure about going under the falls. Time constraint also pushed me to avoid the bath and return back.

To do justice to Thusharagiri, one must keep aside a full day for the falls and the trek through the forest cover. From Erattumukku one can trek up 400 meters further to reach the next waterfalls called Mazhavilchattam (Rainbow falls). Bathing under this falls is dangerous and visitors need to be extra cautious before taking the plunge. A kilometer of further trekking takes you to Thumbithullum para (Thumbi- dragon fly, para- rock), the third waterfalls. In addition to the falls, there is also a natural pool where one can enjoy a refreshing dip. Another kilometer through the greenery and you reach Thonikkayam (Thoni- boat). Here water is stagnant in the shape of a boat and hence the name. The best time to visit the place would be immediately after the monsoons when the water is ferocious and at its best. Make sure to pack delicious lunch from the famous Johnettan's shop near the information centre before you begin the trek.

When I reached back the information centre, the office was open and I had second thoughts about taking a package tour and hiring a guide to trek into the forest. However, I put the thoughts aside and rode back through the winding roads to Wayanad.

Signing Note- Thusharagiri is a trekkers delight with the waterfalls adding charm and freshness to the verdant forest.

Route-
Sulthan Bathery- Kalpetta- Vythiri- Adivaram- Thusharagiri (60 kms)

Kozhikode- Kunnamangalam- Thamarassery- Adivaram- Thusharagiri (54 Kms)

Ruralscapes of India...!!

2013-04-02T11:53:00.002+05:30

Frames from rural central India captured from a moving train. January 2013.

The Mughal Wonders of Lucknow...!!

2013-03-28T10:37:00.001+05:30

As soon as I stepped out of Lucknow railway station there were a swarm of cycle rickshaw drivers ready to take me around the city. Most of them put forward a complete package of taking me around the Mughal quarter in an hour which I was not keen on. However, I just wanted to be dropped at the beginning of the Mughal quarter and then roam on my own. After a lot of haggling, I was on a cycle rickshaw wading through the congested roads to that section of the city that has some magnificent structures of the Mughal era. After getting off the rickshaw at the entrance of Bada Imambra I hired another rickshaw for Rs.50 which would take me to Chota Imambara, Clock tower, Rumi Darwaza and Jama Masjid. My rickshaw driver also turned out to be a good guide as he passed on many information with regards to all the beautiful structures.

Rumi Darwaza was the first monument that I passed through. Standing like an imposing gateway it stunned me with its impressive Awadhi architecture. This spectacular work is undoubtedly an architectural splendour. My guide was quick to point out that you can see only one door from one side, but once you pass over to the other side you can see there are actually three doors. Built in the late 18th century by Nawab Asaf-Ud-Dowlah, this 60 feet tall structure which is a symbol of Awadhi and Mughal architecture was built on the model of a similar gateway in ancient Constantinople.

Rumi Darwaza

We cycled down further to the Chota Imambara, one of the most extraordinary Mughal structures I have ever seen. I was so awed by its exteriors which had beautiful Arabic calligraphy all over and a gleaming golden dome on its top. The interiors of Chota Imambara swept me off my feet with exquisite chandlers, colourful wall coatings and glittering mirrors. I kept gawking at the wonderful architectural designs for a long time. It is definitely a visual treat. Also referred to as Hussainabad Imambara, this exceptional monument was built by Mohammad Ali Shah. When lit up on auspicious days, this structure is a magical sight.

Chota Imambara

Jama Masjid was not earlier included on the itinerary mentioned by my guide. However when I mentioned about it, he was more than keen to take me to this massive mosque. I had never been to such a huge and elegant mosque before. The whole mosque is built on yellow sand stone. The minarets, the pillars, the arched domes, the main entrance and the interiors of the mosque are in true Mughal style. I especially loved the colourful interiors. The serenity inside the mosque made me stay a bit longer.

Jama Masjid

Entrance of Jama Masjid

Interiors of Jama Masjid

The tallest clock tower in India is situated in Lucknow. Constructed in the late 19th century by Nawab Nasir-ud-Din Haider, this elegant looking 221 feet tall clock tower also adorns the most expensive clock of those times. My guide pointed out that there is a metal bird on top of the tower which turns its direction to indicate the wind flow.

Clock tower

From the clock tower we came back to our starting point, the Bada Imambara. This imposing structure is a landmark in Lucknow. Built in the late 18th century by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, the Imambara was a part of the relief measures during the famine that struck Awadh. An elegant looking gateway leads to a huge open garden area which houses the Bada Imambara and Asafi mosque. It is also referred to as Bhool Bhulaiyya because of the numerous zig zag passes inside the structure that leads to a series of labyrinths. The inside chambers and hallways look stunning with its ornamentation and the corridors are absolutely a maze. Asafi mosque with numerous steps, minarets and domes look equally grand and gorgeous and is frequented by Shia Muslims for prayers.

Bada Imambara

Asafi mosque

Gateway to Bada Imambara

Half a day was not enough for me to cover the whole of Mughal quarter and I did skip a few like Chattar Manzil, Residency etc. However the few structures that I had a glimpse of were astoundingly beautiful, intricate and wondrous. My biggest exposure to Mughal architecture before visiting Lucknow was The Taj. Now after visiting these magnificent Mughal architectures of Lucknow am awed as every structure they have built (even the small minarets) are absolutely spectacular in all means. Absolutely great creations.

Signing Note- A day with the Mughals was architecturally memorable...!!

Location- Mughal quarter, Lucknow

Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2012...!!

2013-03-25T12:29:00.000+05:30

Kochi - Muziris Biennale was the first of its kind to be staged in India in more than 110 years of its history. Held in the old world town of Fort Kochi and surroundings, this exhibition of contemporary art was also an amalgam of culture and history. With artists from different corners of the world uniting for the brilliant displays of art work, the whole of Fort Kochi was painted down. The old spice godowns, the dingy rooms, the dusty attics, the narrow alleys, the barren walls, the uprooted trees, the disused structures, the old dilapidated buildings and the galleries and halls of Fort kochi and surrounding islands came alive during the biennale which was held from December 2012 to March 2013. With the tourist season at its peak, the visitors kept profusely flowing in and it included not only the locals but also foreign tourists, celebrities and politicians. The biennale a magnificent visual experience with a plethora of paintings, photography, sculptures, graffiti, videos, seminars, documentary screenings, workshops, music and performance art. The dingy and spicy aroma filled rooms and attics of the many heritage buildings and dilapidated structure were so thoughtfully used for the art display. The main venue was Aspinwall House along with Pepper house, Moidu's Heritage Plaza, David hall, Kashi Art gallery and Durbar hall. Even though there was not much support from the well known artists, this display of contemporary arts by numerous artists from across the globe did turn out to be a huge success. I did have a few personal favourites- Look Back by Daniel Connell, Last Supper Gaza by Vivek Vilasini, Black Gold by Vivan Sundaram, Shock of Time by Sun Xun, Islamic Violins by Ibrahim Quraishi, Life is a River by Ernesto Neto, Citizens Band by Angelica Mesiti and Oil canvases by Ratheesh.T.

I was there on the final two days of the event and that is the reason why this post could not reach out to all when the event was in its full swing. Here is a link to their website- http://kochimuzirisbiennale.org/

For those who could not make it to Kochi- Muziris Biennale, here are a few photographs from the same.

Kalamkari art

HFV Project by Ariel Hassan

Old paper cuttings framed inside Kashi art cafe

An old cartoon strip by O V Vijayan

Look Back by Daniel Connell

Dutty Water by Wangechi Mutu

Ways of Seeing by Vivek Vilasini

Last Supper Gaza by Vivek Vilasini

Display of different varieties of rice grains

Art work by Maya Arulpragasam

Art work by Maya Aulpragasam

Art wok by Rashid Rana

Soundtracks by Dylan Martorell

Lonely Planet by Julian Rosefeldt

Disturbed Places by Marcel Odenbach

Silent Dialogues

Cloud for Kochi by Alfredo Jaar

Celebration in the Laboratory by Atul Dodiya

Veni, Vidi, Vici by L.N.Tallur

Stop Over by Sheela Gowda and Christoph Storz

Stopover by Sheela Gowda and Christoph Storz

Black Gold by Vivan Sundaram

Drawings by school children

Crossfire by Shahidul Alam

Open and Close by Zhang Enli

Tug of War by P.S. Jalaja

Talking Skins by Clifford Charles

Shock of Time by Sun Xun

Shock of time by Sun Xun

Mahayanam- The Great Procession by Prabhakaran.K

Pancha Mahabhuta by T.Venkanna

Pancha Mahabhuta By T.Venkanna

Visitors watching a documentary

Leave Your Shoes Here by Hossein Valamanesh

Islamic Violins by Ibrahim Quraishi

Destuffing Matrix by CAMP

Thoombinkal Chathan by K.P.Reji

Boatman by K.P.Kishnakumar

The Insufficiency of Images by Gert Jan Kocken

The Insufficiency of Images by Get Jan Kocken

Steps from Villa Sebollini, Belaggio by Clifford Charles

Life is a River by Ernesto Neto

Desert of Pharan by Ahmed Mater

Photography by Srinivasa Prasad

Citizens Band by Angelica Mesiti

Art work by Thomas Florschuetz

Sculpture by K.P.Krishnakumar

What are We? by Sosa Joseph

Queen City Series by Cyprien Gaillard

Work by Carlos Garaicoa

Oil Canvas by Ratheesh.T

Indian Jewish Identity by Rahul.S.Ravi

Kochi- Muziris Biennale 2012 was a brilliant display of extra-ordinary works by a set of highly talented artists.

River Narmada...!!

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The expansive and serene River Narmada flowing through the heart of Madhya Pradesh. These frames were captured from a moving train. January 2013.

Baba and Bullets...!!

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I was confused what to capture, the ash smearing baba or the gleaming bullets. However when I did, I had them both in the same frame.
Maha Kumbh mela, Allahabad, February 2013.

The Photographer and His Model...!!

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A happily posing Naga Sadhu at Maha Kumbh mela 2013. Allahabad, February 2013

Maha Kumbh Mela...!!

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It all began when Lord Vishnu in the form of Mohini ran off with the pot (kumbh) carrying nectar away from the devas and the asuras (The fight between devas and asuras was to have the nectar to attain immortality). On the way four drops spilled over at Prayag (Allahabad), Haridwar, Nashik and Ujjain. Prayag is considered the biggest of them all due to the confluence of Ganga, Yamuna and the mystical Saraswathi. Even after thousands of years people including pilgrims, sadhus and foreigners descend upon the Kumbh mela site and have a dip in the waters to attain salvation or moksha. Considered the biggest religious gathering in the world, Kumbh mela happens once in twelve years at each of the four places. Ardh kumbh mela takes place once every six years at Prayag and Haridwar. Prayag also hosts a magh mela (a miniature Kumbh mela) every year during the months of february and march. The Kumbh mela of 2013 in Prayag is called the Maha Kumbh mela as this comes after 144 years (after 12 cycles of 12 years each). I do not think anyone who is alive today would be witness to the next Maha Kumbh mela. Shouldn't that be the reason to head to The Kumbh?

So I was aboard the train to Allahabad and after an engrossing two days reached the confluence. The road to the confluence had a plethora of activities like exhibitions, magic shows, adventure parks, eateries etc. Elaborately spread over more than 50 sq. km., the mela area next to the sangam (confluence) is heavy on security, well directed with boards, markings, temporary lanes, tea stalls, numerous pontoons to cross over to the other bank, confusing intersections (all look like one another), shops selling everything from blankets to temple paraphernalia, hundreds of camps, thousands of tents and lakhs of visitors. The blaring speakers are always flowing with either devotional songs or with the names of the people who have been separated from their family. The place is quite windy and can leave you covered with white powdery sand. Areas close to the waters have been covered with hay and sand sacks to avoid slush. It is a huge colourful crowd with people from all walks of life flowing through all possible ways like the Ganges. You have to wade through people to move ahead or else be ready to get pushed and elbowed all along. The crowds come in huge families, and with similar attire they are so easily distinguishable. Fathers, mothers, children, uncles, aunts, nephews, nieces, grandparents, brothers, sisters, wives, husbands, in-laws... there is no member who is not a part of this holy dip.

The entry point to the main fair area

A procession by ISKCON

A typical tea stall

The numerous stalls selling anything and evrything

A section of the fair area

Sadhus being served food

One of the pontoons

This largest religious gathering is an electric synthesis of pilgrims. Visitors include pilgrims from different parts of the country, celebrities who have come to take a dip in the waters, politicians who have their stage set for another speech, media personnel from across the globe who have come for the Kumbh coverage, foreign backpackers who seem excited to see the congregation at the confluence, kalpwasis who have been camping under strict religious observations during the Kumbh mela period, the different akharas (sects) with huge camps, different types of sadhus in all kind of forms and attires, people seeking alms, kids posing for photographs and then stretching their palms for money and people like me who go capturing and enjoying every moment which would be memorable for a lifetime.

A gang of Sikhs

This sadhu was happily dancing to some music

Media coverage

Undoubtedly, the most crowded areas were the ones close to the waters with people taking a quick dip and an even quicker dress change. On auspicious dates, the numbers have been quite staggering with millions taking the holy bath. The pilgrims can only wade a few feet into the waters as the access is limited with blockades extending along the whole length of the bank. Security on boats are also placed next to the blockade after every 100-200 meters. Visitors also give offerings to the rivers in the form of flowers and coins. Once the crowd moves out by late evening, young boys throw magnets into the waters to collect the coins. They also get chased by policemen for their act.

Sangam area

Sangam bank as seen from the boat

Though most people take dip near the banks, the actual sangam or confluence of the Ganga and the Yamuna (not to forget the mystical Saraswathi) is further upstream and can be reached by boat. I had an early morning boat ride on the Yamuna with a Bengali family to the exact location of the confluence. With mist, sea gulls, ghats and pilgrims, the ride was serene and memorable. As we neared the confluence, my boatman was quick to point out and say "This is Yamuna and that is Ganga". I could very easily distinguish the green Yamuna from the brown Ganga. Also, the ripples were quite obvious making the joining of these two great rivers a very holy one. There were large number of boats that had arrived with pilgrims who had come for the holy bath. My co-travellers also got ready to take the dip and jumped over from one boat to another till they could get into the waters. The holy bath of pilgrims signified their faith, belief and the quest for salvation. Each face had a different expression which was tough to decode. Those undefinable expressions and silent prayers spoke a million words. After being dropped off on the other side of the bank (boats are not allowed near the sangam bank), I had a long walk across pontoons and crossings to reach the main fair area.

Location of the actual confluence

The green Yamuna and brown Ganga

Sangam bank as seen from the opposite bank

All the three days that I was at Kumbh mela were largely spent walking across the numerous camps which were active either with devotional songs or with religious talks by religious leaders or with enacting of the stories from the epics. Most camps were crowded with viewers and looked colourful at its best. Thousands of pilgrims have camped at the mela area and they are provided with rice, wheat, kerosene etc. at subsidised rates during this period. Kalpawasis form a huge part of this pilgrim crowd. Kalpawasis are pilgrims who camp at the site during the whole Kumbh period and undergo rigorous religious observations like having only one meal a day.

A large gathering inside a camp

Campers cooking their daily meal

Ramayana on stage inside a camp

A section of the tents

More tents

One of the camps

The other prominent tents belong to the Akharas. Akharas are sects which were initially formed by Adi Shankaracharya inorder to preserve Hinduism from external factors and internal aggression. The number which was initially 7, broke down further over a period of time and now stands at 13. Some of the well known Akharas are Juna, Agni, Avahan, Digambar, Niranjani etc. All these Akharas have separate camps which in turn have numerous individual tents. Juna Akharas are supposedly the most popular of the lot. Naga sadhus who smear ash on their body, wear absolutely no clothing and happily smoke ganja are the ones who form a part of Juna akharas. I enthusiastically spent two to three hours on all three days at their camp. It was pure fascination that made me go there again and again. With long braids, ash smeared bodies, long rudrakshas, ganja pipes and burning wood, they seemed like aliens from a different galaxy. But, they too flash symptoms of civilization. They carry one or more cellphones and some even speak English. I went up to one of them, took his blessings and he gave me a powdery ash. The fragrance of the grass was ubiquitous. There was also a naga sadhu who was flexing his body, walking on his hands, twisting his legs and performing acrobatics. As the cameras flashed, he happily smiled at them and performed more for the crowd. Must say he has one extraordinary body. There was a huge gathering of people with shaven heads, ceremonial threads and little clothing who were performing certain rituals and were being led forward by the saints from Juna Akhara. Supposedly, they were undergoing rites to become the next Naga sadhus. There was extensive media coverage for the same.

The naga sadhu who blessed me

A Naga sadhu on a call

The acrobatic naga sadhu

Large gathering of the next naga sadhus

Apart from Naga sadhus there have numerous other saints who are well known. Some for their laptops, some for their dogs, some for their phones and some for their luxurious vehicles. There are also quirky sadhus like phool baba (he is always covered in flowers), jhoole baba (he is always on a swing), haath yogis (they have held up one hand of theirs in upright position continuously for the past many years and have over grown finger nails) and many more.

The sadhu in the centre kept flashing his i-Pad

Phool baba and his followers

Haath yogi

Jhoole baba

These sadhus were watching ramayana on a laptop

One of the floating stones from Ram sethu

If Kumbh mela is colourful and vibrant during the day, it gets bright and beautiful as the dusk sets in. The whole place is well electrified and my evenings by the confluence were serene. As the sun sets, the rays spread itself onto the flowing rivers creating a gorgeous picture. It becomes colder, the crowd gets feebler, the yellow light from the electric lamps emanates everywhere and pilgrims return back with a content, hopeful and a peaceful mind on their road to salvation.

A serene evening by the confluence

No photographs or visuals or writings can explain the festival to you. The largest religious gathering in the world has to be visited in person to see, to smell, to touch, to hear, to feel and to experience its moments.

Signing Note- The Kumbh Mela is all about faith, blind faith...!!

Colours of Maha Kumbh Mela...!!

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Maha Kumbh Mela, Allahabad. February 2013.

Welcome to Benares...!!

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From the alleys of Varanasi. February 2013.