Introducing YLVA by Hey Mama Wolf

Ylva is an exceptional yarn created by the highly innovative Jule Kebelmann, who now leads as the creative director of Hey Mama Wolf. This yarn goes beyond just being a simple yarn and showcases the beauty and practicality of eco-friendly knitting.

Hey Mama Wolf Ylva comes in 12 beautiful colours - 100% wool - ( 240m / 100g)

Each skein of Ylva is carefully spun from fibers collected from small sheep farms in Northern and Eastern Germany and dyed using plant dyes in Vienna, Austria. The result is a yarn that boasts of rich, subtle shades that only Mother Nature can create.

We are thrilled to offer this fantastic plant-dyed yarn to you, and we can't wait for you to appreciate its exquisite craftsmanship.

Meet Jule Kebelmann, A Pioneer in Plant-Dyed Yarns and Advocate for German Yarns

Jule Kebelmann isn't just the brains behind Hey Mama Wolf; she's a passionate advocate of sustainable knitting and a champion of German yarns, with a profound expertise in plant-dyeing techniques.

What to Expect When Knitting with Plant-Dyed Yarns

• Unique Colour Variations: Each batch of Ylva is like a box of chocolates – you never quite know what you'll get. Influenced by everything from the local soil quality to the seasonal rainfall, the natural dyes deliver vibrant, earthy tones with slight variations that make each project distinctly yours.

• Colour Fastness: A bit of a pickle with plant-dyed yarns is that the colours might bleed or fade as time goes on. This happens because natural dyes aren't as fixed as the synthetic ones.

Tip: Give your yarn a gentle wash in cool water with a bit of pH-neutral soap before you start your project. It'll help keep any colour bleeding to a minimum.

• Dye Transfer to Hands: Don't be surprised if some dye rubs off your hands or needles while knitting. It's all part of the charm with these natural dyes.

Tip: Have a damp cloth to wipe down your hands or tools if you spot any dye sneaking onto them. It'll keep your work tidy and consistent.

• Eco-Friendly Knitting: Choosing Ylva means you're not just knitting; you're doing your bit for the environment. Plant-dyed yarns skip the harsh chemicals you find in synthetic dyes, making them a safer bet for the planet and your home.
• A Connection to Tradition: Knitting with Ylva ties you to the deep-rooted history of textile art. Plant dyeing is an age-old method used for centuries across cultures. Every stitch adds beauty and warmth and carries the legacy of traditional craftsmanship.
• Sensory Pleasure: The texture and scents of plant-dyed yarns turn knitting into a profoundly sensory experience. The natural softness of the wool, mixed with the gentle natural fragrances, makes your knitting session that much more relaxing.
• A Rustic Charm That Softens Over Time: Ylva is a rustic yarn that embraces its natural texture, enhancing the sensory experience. With each wash, you'll find the wool becomes softer, evolving beautifully as it becomes even more comfortable to work with and wear. This unique characteristic ensures that your knitted creations not only last but improve with age.

Wrapping Up

Having discovered Ylva at H+H Cologne, our shop is now a sanctuary for knitters who prize sustainability and uniqueness in their knitting. Whether you’re a seasoned knitter or just starting, Ylva provides the perfect chance to enjoy knitting with yarns that are as beautiful as they are environmentally friendly.

Today, we're diving into the fascinating world of steeking - an advanced knitting technique that might make some of you a tad nervous. We get it, the idea of cutting your beloved knitting can send shivers down your spine. But fear not! Steeking can be a thrilling adventure, especially when you have the right yarn by your side.

You see, steeking isn't as scary as it sounds. The key to conquering this technique lies in choosing the perfect yarn for your early steeking projects—one packed with natural fibres that will easily 'stick' together. Trust us, with the right yarn, you'll be amazed at what you can achieve!

To get your creative juices flowing, we've gathered a beautiful collection of stunning steeked patterns paired with the perfect yarns that will bring your projects to life, stitch by stitch.

So, let's dive in:

Budding by Anna Joanna

If you love the look of yoked sweaters but prefer the versatility of a cardigan, adding a steek makes the process seamless (by adding the ability to add a seam!). Yokes don't come much more striking than Budding and we've paired it with the stunning dLana* Sorrosal as its ideal yarn partner. It's 100% Merino and comes in a gorgeous selection of colours.

Budding by Anna Joanna

Hirne by Kate Davies Designs

If you want to try a yoked cardigan as your first steek project but would prefer not to keep things simple and not include colourwork, Kate Davies' beautiful textured yoke, Hirne, is a great choice. Knit in DK weight, we have paired it with Retrosaria Brusca. This 100% wool yarn is perfect for steeking, and it comes in a palette of heathered shades ranging from neutrals to jewel tones.

Hirne by Kate Davies Designs

Snowy Shawl by Jessica McDonald

If garments aren't your thing, check out the Snowy Shawl by Jessica McDonald. This triangular shawl features stunning colourwork with increases placed to create a triangular shawl that is longer across the top without becoming too deep. Worked in one of our favourite yarns, De Rerum Natura Gilliatt. It is sure to work up quickly and produce the cosiest shawl for the cooler months, and with a fibre content of 100% French Merino, it's perfect for steeking projects.

Snowy Shawl by Jessica McDonald

Eaves By Kate Oats

If you are looking for a steeking project that is a little different, take a look at Eaves by Kate Oats. Here the steeks are placed at the neck and sleeves to create this gorgeous colourwork across the front and back of the shoulders. The suggested yarn for Eaves is Biches & Buches Le Petit Lambswool, and we couldn't agree more that it's a perfect choice! With 100% Lambswool, it's ideal for steeking and blooms to the softest fabric.

Eaves by Kate Oats

 Fairy Ring by Katie Green

And finally, we couldn't talk about steeking projects without including the pure joy that is Fairy Ring by Katie Green! A circular yoke of sweet toadstools sits on delicate all-over colourwork to create one of the most magical cardigans we've seen in a while. The Fibre Co. Lore would be our yarn of choice for Fairy Ring. It is made up of 100% Lambswool and comes in the most gorgeous colours that include options for similar colours to the ones Katie has used.

Fairy Ring by Katie Green

The Importance of Yarn Weight

Let's start by understanding why yarn weight matters. It's not just about thickness; it's about how your project turns out. Whether you're crafting a light-as-air lace shawl or a toasty winter sweater, the yarn weight you choose sets the stage for success.

• Project Success: Yarn weight affects your project's appearance and drape. Using the correct weight ensures your project's intended outcome; the wrong weight can result in an ill-fitting or overly tight/loose fabric.
• Gauge and Fit: Yarn weight influences gauge, crucial for a proper fit, especially in garments.
• Pattern Compatibility: Patterns are often designed with specific yarn weights in mind. Deviating from these recommendations may necessitate challenging pattern adjustments.
• Yarn Substitution: Understanding yarn weight enables informed yarn substitutions and desired project results.
• Yarn Quantity: Yarn weight directly impacts the quantity required, reducing the risk of shortages or excess.
• Texture and Aesthetics: Yarn weight determines the texture and aesthetics of your project, making it easier to select the right yarn for your desired style.

In a nutshell, understanding yarn weight enables you to make informed choices, complete projects successfully, and avoid disappointments! It's a fundamental skill that enhances your creativity and enjoyment in the world of knitting and crocheting.

Standard Yarn Weight Categories and Confusing Terminology

So what are yarn weights? Yarn weights are organised into standard categories, such as lace, fingering, sport, worsted, bulky, and super bulky, to help you make sense of your yarn selection and give you a rough idea of what you're purchasing. You can often spot these categories on yarn labels, which is where your yarn adventure begins.

But, here's where it gets fun. The terminology can be all over the place. Different brands and regions have their own jargon, and you might see words like Aran, Worsted, or #4, all talking about the same thing but using different code words. Luckily for you, we're here to help you crack it with our yarn weight conversion chart!

The Importance of Considering Yardage and Weight Variations

However, even with our hand chart, however, you can run into issues. Have you ever looked at a knitting pattern and under the suggested yarn details read, "...or x (x, x, x, x, x, x, x) skeins of DK weight yarn"?

It makes total sense in theory; the designer used a DK weight yarn, so if you don't want to use the same yarn as them you can just substitute it for another DK yarn. Not quite, yarn weight can be quite the chameleon, shifting depending on the brand or base, even if they all have the same "weight category" label. A DK-weight yarn from one brand could be worlds apart from another's DK, so it's crucial to check out the yardage, especially if you are substituting yarn. 

For example, let's take a look at two yarns from The Fibre Co. Lore and Arranmore Light are both classed as DK weight yarns, but Lore has 250m in 100g, while Arranmore has 300m in 100g. 

Another example from two different yarn companies is dLana Sorrosal and Kokon Merino Fingering. The Kokon has 320m in 100g and is classed as a fingering-weight yarn. Sorrosal has 370m in 100g, so it's a lighter yarn, but it's classed as a sport weight, which is supposed to be heavier than a fingering weight. Do you see how things can get confusing?!

In both of these examples, there has been a difference of 50m between the two yarns. While it's not a huge difference, it's still good practice to keep yardage in mind as it can still influence your project in a few ways, such as:

1. Project Completion: As we saw above, yarns with the same weight might have varying yardage, and picking a yarn with less yardage for a big project could lead to playing yarn chicken. Not fun!
2. Budget: Some lighter-weight yarns can pack more yardage, making them a budget-friendly choice for larger projects. By keeping an eye on yardage, you can stay within your crafting budget without compromising on the projects you want to undertake.

So, when you're picking your yarn, always keep the yardage in mind, and you'll be crafting the FO of your dreams in no time!

Final thoughts…

The takeaway is this; looking at the yarn weight and understanding what it means is a great first step, but remember that no two same-weight yarns are created equal! Always check out the yardage, especially if you are substituting yarn, and as always, swatch!

By now, you should be well on your way to mastering the art of yarn weight. While the terminology can be puzzling, we're here to tell you that you've got this. Embrace the variety that different yarn weights offer and let your creativity flow.

We'd love to hear about your yarn weight adventures and any terminology mysteries you've unravelled. And if you're itching to put your new yarn conversion chart to use and do a little shopping, hop on over to check out our virtual shelves!

What Knitting Skills Do I Need?

To knit this top-down sweater, you should have knowledge of knitting in the round and short rows, which are crucial to shaping the neckline and creating the sleeves caps. Additionally, you must be confident in picking up stitches as it is used repeatedly in this project.

Although most of this design is knit in the round, some sewing is involved. You will use mattress stitch and whipstitch to finish the neckline and saddle shoulders.

Lily recommends using a tubular cast-off for a more polished and professional appearance. There are links to video tutorials to guide you through techniques you might not be familiar with.

Needles, Notions and Gauge

Gauge is crucial to ensuring the success of any knitting project, so make sure you knit a swatch in your chosen yarn using the knitting needles you plan to use. The gauge for this project is 22 sts and 32 rows knit in stocking stitch. 

Needle: 3.75 mm and 4 mm circular knitting needles in 60 cm and 80 cm. You will also need both needle sizes in double point needles or short circulars for knitting the sleeves in the round.

Notions: a tapestry needle for seams, four yarn bobbins to use with the contrast colour, stitch markers always come in handy for making the start of your round, and finally, you'll need two stitch holders and scrap yarn for setting your saddle shoulders on hold.

How Much Yarn Will I Need?

Lily used Di Gilpin Lalland DK in Flame and Sea Thrift for her sweater. She is wearing size 2, with 9" of positive ease. 

NOTE - All values given in the table are for Lalland DK only!

Colour Inspiration!

We have had so much fun coming up with colour ideas for you and can't wait to see which is your favourite, so leave a comment below, letting us know which colour combo you plan to knit.

Lily Kate's pattern is available to purchase through Ravelry. 

Colour illustrations drawn by @graphicsbymeb 

If you have any further questions regarding colour or sizing please don't hestiate to get in touch you can use the live chat or email us on enquiries@tangled-yarn.co.uk

How do I choose the right yarn for a steeked project? 

In theory, all yarns can be used for steeking, but some will definitely be trickier than others. Ideally, you'll want to use a 'sticky' yarn, meaning something with a high wool content that isn't superwash. This is because the stitches will cling to each other and make unravelling much harder.

If you do use a slippery yarn, you really need to make sure your stitches are extremely secure once reinforced, and this is where an alternative technique to the crochet method we shared above may be better.

What other methods of reinforcing the steek are there besides the crochet method?

There are lots of ways to reinforce your steek stitches. Check them out:

• Machine Stitching: If you're comfortable with a sewing machine, you can use a straight stitch or zigzag stitch to sew along the edges of the steek. This provides a secure reinforcement that's great for projects with thicker yarn. Check out this handy tutorial from Mary-Ann Stephens.
• Hand-Sewn Backstitch: Employ a simple hand-sewing technique by stitching along the steek edges with a contrasting yarn or thread. The backstitch creates a strong bond that helps keep everything in place. Aleks Bird has a great tutorial on this.
• Felted Reinforcement: For wool projects, felting can be an option, but we can stress rough to make sure it is 100% wool and does felt well (not all do!). Gently agitate the steek area in hot soapy water to encourage the fibres to mesh together, creating a secure edge.

After cutting the steek, how do I finish the edges to make them neat and tidy? 

• Fold and Sew: Fold the steek edges to the inside of the garment and sew them down using a whip stitch or blanket stitch. This method creates a clean finish and extra reinforcement.
• Bias Tape or Ribbon: Sew a strip of bias tape or ribbon along the steek edges. This not only reinforces the steek but also adds a decorative touch to your project. Hélène Magnússonis shows how to do this here.
• Knit facing: The entire steek edge is enclosed in a tube of knitting. It gives a lovely edge and opens up lots of finishing possibilities, just check out this tutorial from Kate Davis.

Are there specific knitting stitches or patterns that work best for the steek stitches?

We suggest keeping steek stitches in stocking stitch (knit all stitches) to make it easy to reinforce and cut in the correct place.

What if I'm nervous about cutting my knitting? Are there any tips to ease my anxiety?

Of course! Here are our top tips:

• Take your time! Steeking is not something to be done in a rush. Find a quiet moment and don't rush through any of the steps.
• If you are using a natural, non-superwash yarn and want to add an extra layer of security, you can give the steek stitches a steam block before cutting. This allows your steek stitches and crochet reinforcement (if using) a chance to get cosy and stick together.
• Don't be tempted to use any old scissors to do the cutting. Small, sharp scissors work best, preferably fabric ones, although bonsai scissors work really well for this too!

Do I need to be an advanced knitter to attempt steeking, or can beginners give it a try?

While it is certainly classed as a more advanced technique, there is no reason why you can't try steeking early in your knitting journey. Our advice is to practise with swatches first and choose a simpler project to start with. While we're talking about it, the Tangled Cowl is actually a fantastic introduction to colourwork and working in the round too!

And that’s it! Do you feel empowered to give steeking a try, or are you already a master steeker and have some of your own wisdom to share? Let us know in the comments below! And don't forget to explore the magical Tangled Cowl pattern, designed as your companion on this steeking journey.

Happy knitting and steeking!

So, what is a 'Steek' anyway, and why add one?

In a nutshell, a steek is a deliberate cut made in your knitting to create openings or to turn a circular piece of knitting into a flat one. They are often used in projects with colourwork or complex patterns.

Extra stitches are added to where you will make the cut, these are your safety stitches, aka "steek stitches," and when the big moment comes and you're ready to cut, these trusty stitches take one for the team, making sure your main pattern stays totally unscathed.

Steeking allows you to effortlessly integrate colourwork designs into your knitting projects, like Fair Isle or stranded knitting, or textured patterns. You can knit garments in the round, and maintain the flow of your colourwork or pattern design without having to make adjustments for armholes, necklines, or other openings. This ensures that your intricate motifs are preserved and showcased seamlessly. The result? A more streamlined and polished finished product!

Steeking Step-by-Step

So let's really break things down and look at how to steek step-by-step. This tutorial features Tangled Cowl by Flossi Knits. The wonderful Claire aka Flossi Knits has designed this cowl with an introduction to steeking in mind!

1. Planning and Preparation

Knit your project in the round, ensuring you leave space for the steek. In the Tangled Cowl, you can see in the image above that we have 5 stitches for the steek, defined by alternating the main and contrasting colours. Once the cowl is complete, none of these stitches will be seen from the right side.

2. Reinforcing the Steek

For the Tangled Cowl, we used the crochet method* to reinforce the steek stitches. It creates a lovely neat edge and gives a clear guide for when it comes to cutting your steek. 

For this method, use a feltable (non-superwash) wool yarn and a crochet hook a size or two smaller than the knitting needle size you used. For this tutorial, we have used a contrasting colour yarn so you can clearly see the crochet line, but using one to match your work will give a more subtle finish. 

*if the crochet method doesn't appeal to you there are other ways to reinforce your steek. Check out our post 'Steeking FAQs'!

For this method, you’ll work two lines of crochet to secure your stitches on either side of Steek Stitch 3 as follows.

Set-Up Step 1. Make a slip knot on your crochet hook, then insert it from front to back through the Cast On edge directly under the 4th steek stitch. Pull yarn loop through so you have two loops on your hook.
Set-Up Step 2. Using the working yarn, pull another loop through the two loops on the hook so you have one hook

The edge stitches are secure and you can proceed to Step 1.

Step 1. Insert your hook through the Right Leg of the 4th stitch (light blue) and the Left Leg of the 3rd stitch (dark blue).

Step 2. Pull a loop through both stitch legs so you have two loops on your hook.

Step 3. Pull another loop through both loops so you have one loop on your hook.

Continue moving up the 3rd and 4th steek stitches in this manner, securing Left Legs to Right Legs, until you reach the Bind Off edge.

Step 4. To secure the stitches on the Bind Off edge, insert your hook through a bound-off stitch above Steek Stitch 4. Pull a loop through so you have two loops on your hook.
Step 5. Pull another loop through both loops already on the hook so you have one loop.
Step 6. Break your yarn and pull through the remaining loop on your hook.

To complete the second crochet line, join your yarn at the Bind Off edge, above Steek Stitch 2, following the Set-Up instructions for attaching your yarn.

Continue down the steek in the same manner as you did for the Left Side, but this time insert your hook through the Left Leg of Steek Stitch 2 (light blue) and the Right Leg of Steek Stitch 3 (dark blue). Once complete, you will have two crochet lines running down the centre of your steek. If you look between the two you will see the horizontal bar of Steek Stitch 3. This is what we're going to cut!

3. The Moment of Truth – Cutting

Lay your reinforced steek flat on a stable surface. Take a deep breath – it's time to cut! Use sharp scissors to snip the horizontal bars of Steek Stitch 3 between your crochet lines. Take your time and carefully work from bottom to top.

4. Finishing Touches

Weave in your ends and admire your work!

And there you have it, didn't we say it wasn't super scary?! At this point with the Tangled Cowl, you'd go on to add the ribbed edge, and if you think you'd like to give it a go, check out the pattern here!

A Fresh Twist on an Old Favourite

Drumroll, please! Say hello to the new Tukuwool Fingering yarn, now available in 100g skeins, giving you a generous 370m of pure knitting delight. Which means more yarn to cuddle up with as you embark on your creative journeys!

But that's not all – this vibrant Finnish yarn has embraced a kaleidoscope of colours, ranging from the natural, undyed shades of sheep wool to stunning heathered and melange hues, along with rich and saturated tones that are practically begging to jump onto your needles.

A Symphony of Softness and Texture

If you were already a devout fan of Tukuwool Fingering, fear not, with the new updates it's lost none of its rustic charm – it has simply dialed up the softness factor. Crafted with the same meticulous care, this woollen spun, two-ply yarn maintains its light and lively character, promising you a knitting experience that's as enjoyable as a cosy evening by the fireside.

And as always, once it's off your needles and takes a relaxing soak, it blooms to woolly perfection, revealing its true beauty. 

Pattern Perfection 

Now, let's talk patterns, shall we? We've handpicked five fantastic designs that are practically begging to be knit with the fabulous Tukuwool Fingering yarn. Whether you're a colourwork connoisseur or titillated by texture, this yarn is here to play matchmaker with your next project. Get ready to fall head over heels for these patterns that perfectly complement the charms of Tukuwool Fingering:

Poet by Sari Nordlund

Poet was originally featured in Laine Magazine and was designed by the wonderful Sari Nordlund with Tukuwool Fingering in mind. This stunning sweater really makes the most of this yarn's stitch definition, with delicate lace and pockets of moss stitch.

Mare by Nataja Horrnby

This beautiful crescent shawl, Mare cleverly combines two shades of Tukuwool using slipped stitches, so only one strand of yarn is used at a time (that means no carrying floats or attempting stranded colourwork on the wrong side!). We love how it is finished with a delicate picot edge!

Thistle by Anna Johanna

As Tukuwool Fingering is 100% wool, it's ideal for steeked pieces like Thistle. The 'sticky' nature of this yarn will make cutting your work a breeze, and the extended colour options will have you spoilt for choice when making your own version of this boxy cardigan.

Underwing Mitts by Erica Heusser

If you want the colourwork without a big time commitment, check out the Underwing Mitts by Erica Heusser. These sweet fingerless mittens will bring a little whimsy to the transitional seasons ahead and with Tukuwool's 100g skeins you could whip up several pairs for a head start on any gift knitting you had planned.

Rusty Tuku by Susanna Sommer

And finally, if you are a fan of stripes and interesting construction, take a look at the gorgeous details of Rusty Tuku from Susanne Sommer. It's full of interesting details from its striped yoke to its split hem.

So, there you have it, friends – a yarn that's not only a joy to work with but blooming with possibilities for your future WIPs. As we head towards Autumn, why not dive into the world of Tukuwool Fingering, and let your creativity run wild? Happy knitting! 

The best cast-on techniques and ideal bind-off methods

Choosing the right cast-on and bind-off can be a huge step to achieving polished knits. While most knitting patterns will specify the cast-on and bind-off method to use, it's always worth experimenting with other options if the ones suggested aren't giving you the desired results. For the best results, it's important to consider the following to ensure your project begins and ends with perfection!

1.  Project Type and Stretch: Consider the project's purpose. For socks and garments, a stretchy cast-on like the german twisted cast on works well, while non-stretchy options like the cable cast on suit items that require structure.
2. Stitch Pattern: Your stitch pattern plays a role. For ribbing, the long tail tubular cast on or the alternate cable-cast on complements the rhythm. For lighter projects that would benefit from a clean edge, an i-cord cast-on may be ideal!
3. Yarn Weight and Fibre: Lighter-weight yarns with delicate fibres can easily get weighed down by bulky bind-offs, but pair well with delicate techniques such as the eyelet bind-offs airy finish.
4. Project Tension: Just as you would for the main part of your project, adjust your needle size to get the correct tension for your cast-on and bind-off.
5. Consistency: For a really polished look try using a cast-on and bind-off method that match each other and the overall project style. A tubular cast on and bind-off, while more advanced methods, give a beautiful seamless edge, especially on ribbing. However, simple methods can work beautifully too, the crochet cast-on perfectly matches a traditional knitted bind-off and gives a lovely clean edge to chunky cowls.

Sassy Seams

Seaming is something that some knitters may shy away from, and while we are huge fans of a seamless knit, there are lots of benefits to trying seamed projects; structure and stability, the opportunity for adding different design elements and creating visual definition to name just a few. But how do you choose the best method? Let's take a look at a few.

1. Mattress Stitch: This creates an almost invisible seam by working through the horizontal bars between stitches. It's great for side seams, shoulder seams, and other areas where an inconspicuous seam is desired.
2. Backstitch Seam: Backstitch involves placing the right sides of your pieces together and moving your tapestry needle in and out along the seam line. The seam is bulkier in comparison to Mattress stitch though, so it works better with lighter-weight yarns.
3. Grafting: Used to seamlessly join two sets of live stitches, creating an invisible, seamless join. It's commonly used for joining the toe of socks, the top of mittens, and other areas where a continuous fabric is desired, but isn't ideal for any areas that need to support any weight, for example, shoulder seams.
4. Three needle bind off:This technique joins two sets of live stitches while binding them off at the same time. It creates a sturdy seam, so ideal for joining shoulder seams! It can be worked on the wrong side for a discreet seam, or on the right side in a contrasting colour to add definition and visual interest.
5. Slip-stitch crochet seam: Creates a seam very similar to the mattress stitch and you can see a side by side comparison in this video, but you can also do it in this way too to create a more decorative seam!

Wet blocking vs. steam blocking

One of the most important finishing techniques is blocking, the final touch that transforms your FO into a masterpiece. But did you know, the blocking method you choose can be influenced by the fibre content of the yarn you used? Here are some general guidelines for blocking based on fibre content:

1. Animal Fibers (e.g. wool, alpaca, mohair): These fibres are more receptive to blocking and have excellent memory, meaning they hold their shape well. You can use either wet blocking (soaking the finished project in water, then laying it flat to dry) or steam blocking (applying steam without direct contact with the project).
2. Plant-Based Fibres (e.g. cotton, linen): Plant fibres have less elasticity than animal fibres, making them more resistant to blocking. Wet blocking is the most effective method for these fibres, as it helps the fibres relax and settle into the desired shape.
3. Synthetic Fibres (e.g. acrylic, nylon): Synthetic fibres don't have the same response to blocking as natural fibres. Steam blocking is usually the best method for acrylic and other synthetics, as wet blocking may not be as effective.
4. Blends (e.g. wool/acrylic, cotton/linen): For yarns containing a blend of fibres, you can use a blocking method that suits the majority fibre content. For example, if a yarn is mostly wool with a small amount of acrylic, treat it like a wool yarn.

If you take one thing away let it be this...

Swatch! Remember, all of the above options depend on the type of project, the stitch pattern, and the desired finish. Experiment with different methods to find the one that works best for your specific knitting project by swatching. Try out different cast-ons and bind-offs, practice seaming them together, and block them to see the final result. These swatches don't have to be huge as you are not trying to work out your gauge, just how the different methods look, and even if you decide something isn't right for your current project, you can refer to them for future ones as well!

The techniques listed in this post are just a handful of possible options, so we encourage you to explore other methods out there too! Do you have a favourite finishing technique you'd love to share with us? Let us know in the comments below!

Casting on

As with any knitting, we start with the cast-on, but how many stitches should you have? As we said in our previous post, bigger is better, and you want to aim for a swatch that's at least 6"/15.25 cm square. But how do we work out the cast on number?

Use the pattern gauge

Though we don't know our stitch gauge yet (that's what our swatch is for!), we can use the one listed in the pattern as a rough guide. 

Let's say we are knitting a sweater flat in stocking stitch, and the stitch gauge listed is 24 sts in 4"/10 cm. We can work out how approximately many stitches we need for a 6"/15.25 cm swatch by doing a few sums. The below is based on inches, but the same rules apply if you wish to calculate for cm.

• Work out how many stitches per inch in the pattern gauge: 26 sts / 4" = 6.5 sts per "
• Now work out how many stitches are in 6 inches: 6.5 sts x 6" = 39 sts 

So now we know we need to cast on approximately 39 sts. To be safe we'd suggest adding a few extra and cast on around 44 sts. The sweater is knit flat, so we will swatch flat by knitting the right side, then turning our swatch and purling the wrong side.

Remember, when it comes to knitting a swatch flat, it may look prettier and stop it curling if you add a border of garter stitches, but it can distort the gauge of your swatch. This is because the stitches are really short in garter stitch, so only swatch for the stitch listed in your pattern and avoid adding a border.

What if the stitch pattern is more complex?

You won't only be swatching stocking stitch, so check the pattern details for information about the stitch patterns used. There it should say how many stitches there are in each pattern repeat. 

For example, the twisted stitch pattern I used for the above swatch uses a multiple of 9 sts, so my cast-on number must be divisible by 9. Let's use the numbers from our previous example. We needed approximately 39 sts to get 6"/15.25 cm, but does that work with our stitch pattern?

39 sts / 9 sts = 4.33 repeats

Nope, so what do we do? We take the whole number from the above result, which in this case is 4, and to be sure our swatch will be big enough, add one more repeat. So...

4 + 1 = 5 repeats 
5 x 9 sts = 45 sts

We need 45 sts to have the right amount of stitches for the pattern repeat and make sure our swatch is big enough, simple!

Swatching in the round

Swatching in the round is a technique some knitters are less familiar with, but even with something as simple as stocking stitch, your gauge in the round can be significantly different to when you knit it flat. That's why it is important to know how to swatch both ways, so let's check out some swatching in the round methods.

Tubular method

This is where you knit a tube and work in the round for your entire swatch. You calculate your cast-on stitches as we did for the flat swatch, join to work in the round and start knitting.

While it's the simplest way to swatch in the round, it has drawbacks. Remember, to work out your gauge you need to measure over a 4x4" / 10x10 cm square, with some wriggle room at the side for accurate measuring, so to get a flat section of knitting you'll need to knit at least a 10"/25.5 cm circumference.

You can get around this by knitting a smaller circumference and then cutting your swatch to lay it flat to measure the gauge. While this could work for some, be cautious, as many knitters will naturally knit tighter for small circumferences. If you're swatching for the body of a sweater that is knit as a much larger circumference, you may find your swatch gauge doesn't match your project gauge and cause fit issues.

Loop method

This brings us to the loop method. You work on the right side of the swatch only and use circular needles so you can slide your work back to the other end of your needles and work the right side again, carrying the yarn loosely at the back. It may feel clumsy at first, but it's a great way to knit a swatch quickly, accurately and without using a large amount of your yarn.

One of the problems with this though is because we are carrying yarn across the back, the edge stitches can get loose. We can counteract this, however, by knitting the two stitches at each edge through the back loop (tbl). Here's a breakdown of this method:

Once your swatches are complete, it's time to soak them in warm water and your wool soak of choice and leave them to dry flat. Remember, you should take gauge measurements when your swatch is completely dry and with any pins you used removed. 

Have you swatched in the round before? What method do you use? If you haven’t, do you think you’ll give the loop method a try? Let us know in the comments below.

Silk - Elegance and Lustrous Drape

Silk, known for its luxurious feel and lustrous sheen, is ideal for summer knits. Its natural temperature-regulating properties keep you cool on warm days, making it a popular option for summer tops. 

One of my favourite silk yarns is BC Garn Tussah Tweed. A cruelty-free silk Tussah Tweed is spun from the cocoons wild butterflies have left behind. These cocoons are made into silk, which gives this silk its beautiful tweed nubs.

Our top pick for Tussah Tweed is Suri Shirt by Caidree. A simple classic tee makes the most of this tweedie silk as it's knit in stocking stitch, so it lets the silk yarn take centre stage and exudes sophistication.

Cotton - Breathability and Softness

When it comes to summer knitting, cotton is a classic choice. Renowned for its breathability and softness, cotton yarn ensures maximum comfort even in the hottest weather.

 Summer Blossom Tee by Irene Lin

Krea Deluxe Organic Cotton is for creating lightweight and airy tops. For a versatile design, try the Summer Blossom Tee by Irene Lin. With its eye-catching cable detail and relaxed fit, this pattern will be a joy to knit and wear. Choose two colours of Organic Cotton to complement one another, or use one colour for a more understated look.

Linen - Coolness and Textured Appeal

Linen is a beloved fibre for summer garments, thanks to its exceptional cooling properties and distinct textured look. The more you wash and wear linen, the better it gets. BC Garn Lino is a top pick for linen yarns. It's an excellent choice for creating stylish and breathable tops. Consider casting on HØR No.14 by Lone Kjeldsen to make a chic linen top that combines simplicity and elegance. The delicate stripes and relaxed fit make it a versatile piece that can be dressed up or down for any occasion.

 
HØR no 14 by Lone Kjeldsen

Cotton and linen work wonderfully together. BC Garn Allino gives you the best of both worlds with 50% cotton and 50% linen. It is soft and drapes beautifully, making it ideal for knitting and wearing through summer. For this Allino I have chosen Santa Eulària by Entre las Manos- Susana Guasch. A sleeveless summer top with the prettiest lace and bobble detail it is sure to turn heads. 

So why not embrace your knitting this summer and showcase your individuality with your handmade knits? Explore the patterns we've suggested from Ravelry, select the perfect yarn from our exquisite silk, cotton, and linen offerings, and create garments that blend style and comfort seamlessly. Knitting summer tops has never been more exciting, so grab your needles, indulge in the beauty of Tangled Yarn's Summer Yarn Collection, and let your creativity shine!

From lightweight tops to functional dishcloths, from charming baby garments to stylish accessories, cotton yarn holds a treasure trove of possibilities, ready to be transformed into your very own masterpieces. But while cotton boasts an array of benefits, it's important to note that it may not be the perfect fit for every pattern, but fear not! By harnessing cotton's advantages, we can create projects that allow it to shine, even when the sun isn't.

In this post, we'll explore the advantages of working with this fantastic fibre, while also giving you a heads-up on a few things to keep in mind and cotton knitting tips. We'll take a closer look at the types of projects where cotton truly excels, and empower you to choose the perfect yarns that will bring your creative visions to life. Let’s take a look!

The advantages of cotton yarn

• Soft and Comfortable: Cotton yarn is known for its softness, making it a popular choice for garments, baby items, and accessories. It provides a comfortable feel against the skin, which also means...
• It's Allergy-Friendly: Since cotton is a natural fibre, it is generally hypoallergenic and less likely to cause allergic reactions or irritate sensitive skin. 
• Breathable: Cotton is highly breathable, allowing air to pass through the fibres. This property makes it ideal for warm-weather garments as it helps to keep the body cool and prevents overheating. Think flowing summer tops and wraps.
• Absorbent: Cotton yarn has excellent absorbency, making it suitable for items like dishcloths, towels, and bath accessories. It absorbs moisture well, making it a practical choice for functional projects.
• Stitch Definition: Cotton is not elastic, which gives it fantastic stitch definition and really makes stitch patterns pop.
• The Colours: Cotton takes dye beautifully and you can always find your favourite hue to work in. Just check out the colour palette of Krea Deluxe Organic Cotton.

Things to keep in mind:

• Lack of Elasticity: As mentioned above, compared to other yarns like wool, cotton has less elasticity. This can make it harder to keep an even tension and put more strain on your hands and wrists, so if you struggle with mobility or discomfort in those areas it's worth starting with smaller projects, such as a dishcloth.
• Lack Of Memory: When a yarn is described as not being elastic, this can mislead makers into thinking it won't stretch, but that's not true. Cotton will stretch, but the lack of elasticity means it won't spring back again, so you want to avoid patterns that need a yarn with memory to keep their shape. Think form-fitting tops with negative ease. Cotton is much more suited to tops that require a loser fabric, such as the Ola Top by Irene Lin or Hermaline by Audrey Borrego.

Ola Top by Irene Lin and Hermaline by Audrey Borrego are perfect for knitting in cotton

• Drape: Cotton is a little tricky when it comes to drape. As the fibres are short, they have to be spun fairly tightly creating a yarn that can feel a little stiff and will not easily drape. But then it’s also a heavy fibre, so depending on the size of the project and the stitch pattern it uses then drape is not impossible. That’s why it’s really important to knit up a swatch at least 6x6 inches first.
• Consider Cotton Blends: If you're concerned about the lack of elasticity or drape of pure cotton yarn, consider using cotton blends. Blends that incorporate other fibres, such as wool, silk, or linen can add softness, elasticity, and drape to your projects while retaining the benefits of cotton. 

Some of our favourites are Camarose Økologisk Sommeruld that blends organic cotton with organic merino, The Fibre Co Luma which blends organic cotton with merino wool, linen and silk, and BC Garn Allino, a gorgeous blend of cotton and linen.

• Tension and Gauge: Due to the lack of stretch in cotton, it's important to achieve the correct tension and gauge for the pattern. It's always important to swatch, but cotton will be far less forgiving if you have gauge issues, so make swatching a priority!
• Longer Drying Time: Cotton has a high absorbency rate, which means it can take longer to dry compared to other fibres, especially if you live somewhere that is humid. Wearing cotton garments when they are damp or wet may cause them to stretch and sag*, resulting in them losing their shape, so always allow them to fully dry before wearing. 

*If you only take one thing away from reading this blog post let it be this; Don't use 100% cotton to knit your summer bikini or swimsuit! Unless that's a look you are going for, and if so, we support you all the way. (But your bikini won't!)

• Cotton Yarn Care: The good news is you can speed up the drying time by using a dryer as cotton won't felt, but did you know that it can shrink when exposed to high heat? Be mindful to keep temperatures low when using a washing and drying machine and lay flat to dry if you can.
• They Can Be Slippery: Due to the smoothness of the fibre, cotton yarns can be slippery making them tricky to work with at first. Try working with wooden needles if you find metal ones are causing problems.

And there you have it! Working with cotton yarn is as simple, just remember to honour its unique qualities and select patterns that let them shine. Whether you adore the softness, breathability, or absorbency of cotton, there's a world of projects waiting for your creative touch.

Now, it's your turn! We would absolutely love to hear about your own experiences with cotton yarn. Share your tales of triumph, your tips and tricks in the comments below.

One of the joys of running Tangled Yarn is getting to know my customers and striving to bring them the best possible products and shopping experience. Another is connecting and nurturing relationships with the wonderful companies I work with. These past twelve years have given me a real appreciation for other people who also run small businesses, and it's here that I've found myself contemplating the concept of 'sustainability', and what that means for Tangled Yarn.

The word 'sustainable' is heard a lot these days, and it's easy to become overwhelmed as to what it means. This one word seems to contain a plethora of topics, and that's just within the fibre community alone! That's why I wanted to write today to share a little insight as to what it means to me at this point in my Tangled Yarn journey, and give you a little more insight into running my business.

As Tangled Yarn doesn’t produce products the core of my sustainability strategy focuses on where I source my products from, and where and whom I do business with. I choose to only spend my money with businesses that share my values. 

That’s why I mostly work with amazingly talented, independent businesses with purpose. From the outset, it has always been my preference to lend my support to other female-founded independent businesses, where I can, and that hasn't changed. But as I learned more about the yarn-making process I started to see areas that I felt were important to consider when it came to selecting products to stock.

From animal husbandry to a passion for more sustainable operating practices and care for those in their supply chain, I actively seek out progressive businesses that can evidence their standards at every stage of production and who of course sell wonderful products that I know you’ll love.

Here’s a little about what matters to me at each stage of wool production:

Sheep:

The breed of sheep dictates the wool it produces, and how the animals are treated throughout their life is where it all begins. There have been numerous undercover reports revealing poor practices in large-scale wool production, such as the barbaric practice of museling in the production of merino wool.

I only work with those who can provide evidence of good animal husbandry. I want to source from businesses that care about the flocks and the people who look after them. One way of doing this is to seek suppliers who have achieved GOTs accreditation (Global Organic Textile Standard) which means that standards at every stage of production from sheep to skein can be traced and meet the highest ethical standards.

While seeing this credit makes my job much easier, it's important to note that the GOTs assessment process is quite involved and costly, so it's not always financially accessible for a lot of small businesses to attain, despite them operating within the GOTs criteria. This is why I like to take the time to build relationships with my suppliers, so I get to really know them and what they stand for.

Cleaning & spinning 

Is mostly a mechanised process but this still requires people. I want to know that the people cleaning and spinning the wool that I source for you have work that they are passionate about and they are treated fairly, properly compensated and work in good and safe conditions.

Dyeing:

The process of dying wool isn’t simple or straightforward, to produce some colours requires the addition of heavy metals and none of us want that. That’s why, where possible, I try to select products from suppliers who can demonstrate that they are taking active steps to reduce the use of chemicals and water in their dying process.  

Final thoughts

If there's one thing I've learned about sustainability in my business, it's that it is constantly evolving. I don’t pretend to be an expert, but I am determined to keep my eyes and mind open so I can continue learning. There are so many factors at play when we talk about sustainability, and as individuals, it's not possible to be able to do all the things all the time, but I firmly believe that together we can make a difference and I’m passionate about playing my part.

To you, my wonderful customers, I am committed to making the right choices so that when you purchase from Tangled Yarn you know I have sourced the right products and you can buy with confidence.

Thank you for reading and I hope you enjoyed this insight into how I run my business. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to leave a comment below or email me directly at rachel@tangled-yarn.co.uk

Happy knitting!

Rachel x

So your gorgeous new yarn has arrived, and you're excited to get it on your needles, but before you begin, you need to change that skein into a ball. If you have a swift and ball winder handy, you're good to go, but we don't all have those around the house, so what then?

Worry not, we're here to help! Here's a step-by-step guide to help you wind your yarn into a neat and tidy ball:

Step 1: Untwist The Skein

At one end of the skein, the yarn will have been tucked into itself to keep it secure. Carefully untuck and lay your yarn flat and get everything as straight as you can

At this point do not be tempted to cut any ties! 

Step 2: Find Something To Loop The Yarn Over.

Now find something that will keep your yarn from getting tangled while you wind your ball. You can get creative here! As long as it's going to keep your skein in a tidy loop while you wind and won't lift off while you work, you're all set. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

• Around your knees or feet
• A volunteer's arms
• A chair back ( a swivel chair works similarly to swift!)

Step 3: Identify The Ties And Cut

Once your skein is in place, you can cut the ties, but before you get started, identify how your skein has been secured. All skeins will have a knot where the two ends have been fastened together, but it will also be secured by either looping the yarn from the skein around itself in several places, or it will be tied at certain points with a different yarn.

If a different yarn has been used, simply cut these ties off and discard them before cutting the yarn just above the knot tying the two ends of your skein.

If the yarn has been looped around itself, as in the photos, you will need to cut the knot tying the ends together first, then carefully unloop the yarn from around the skein until you can easily unravel the yarn.

Step 4: Start Winding!

Hold the end of the yarn between your thumb and forefinger, and create a loop by wrapping the yarn around your index and middle fingers. Using your other hand, wrap the yarn around the loop a few times to create a small bundle of yarn.

Slip your fingers out and hold the bundle of yarn securely. Continue wrapping the yarn around the bundle, working from side to side, until you have a small, neat ball of yarn.

As you wind the yarn, rotate the ball in your hand to help keep it even. Use your thumb as an anchor point each time you rotate.

Step 5: Squeeze!

Finally, once you've wound all of the yarn into the ball, give it a gentle squeeze to help it hold its shape, and enjoy your newly wound ball of yarn!

A few extra tips…

If the yarn is prone to tangling or twisting, you can unwind a few feet of yarn at a time and lay it flat on a table or other surface as you wind it into the ball.

Also, if you need to take a break while winding your yarn (we’re looking at you, lace weights!), simply tuck the ball into a bag or container to keep it tidy, and if you need to move the skein of unwound yarn, secure it first with a few ties so it doesn't get tangled.

Lastly, don't worry if your ball isn't picture perfect as long as your able to knit your garment that's all that really matters!


Do you like to wind your yarn by hand and do you have any tips for winding your yarn at home? Tell us in the comments below!

Let's take a look at what we wish we'd have known before we started knitting!

Don't start with a scarf, make a hat!

New knitters often start with a garter stitch scarf, but it can be time-consuming, and by the end, all you've learned is how to do the knit stitch and probably how to cast-on and off (but then the cast on was so long ago you've already forgotten!). 

Instead, knit a few small swatches to start and then try a simple stocking stitch or ribbed hat in chunky yarn to learn knitting in the round, combining knits and purls to create stitch patterns, decreasing and shaping - all in one project that you will be wearing long before that scarf is cast off.

© Lavanya Patricella - Winter is Life Hat

Tangled Yarn Recommend: Winter is Life Hat by Lavanya Patricella, as a first project, Kaos Chunky Andean Wool, would make the perfect yarn and bonus! It's available in 12 different colours!

Your swatch can lie!

Swatching is an essential part of knitting, but did you know that your swatch can sometimes lie to you? Many things can alter your gauge between your swatch and final project; the size of your swatch, if you added a border, how you blocked it, and even your mood! 

To keep your gauge consistent, never add a border to the stitch pattern you are swatching for, always wash it in the same way you will be washing your FO, and measure the gauge of your swatch before and after blocking it. That way you will be able to check the gauge of your project as you work, and not only when it is finished and has been blocked.

Learning to cable without a needle will save so much time!

We love cables, but they can be slow to knit (mainly because we spend most of the time hunting for the cable needle between the couch cushions!). Cabling without a needle can seem scary at first because it involves slipping live stitches off the needle, but once you get the hang of it it's not that bad. Just be sure to practice with a 'sticky' yarn first like something non-superwash with a high wool content.

Check out this tutorial for cabling without a needle if you'd like to give it a go!

Count your stitches regularly! 

It's easy to accidentally add or drop stitches, and catching the mistake early can save you a lot of time and frustration later. If you are working with a pattern repeat, add markers between each repeat so you can easily see if your stitch count is looking off somewhere.

And finally, don't worry about getting it wrong!

You can read all the tips and tricks in the world before picking up your needles, but you will always make mistakes, and it's a good thing! That's where you learn the most and grow as a maker, and before you know it, you'll be sharing your own list of things you wish you'd known to new makers picking up their needles for the first time! 

Do you have any tips that you wish you'd known when you started knitting? Share them with us in the comments below!

My name is Patsy and I’m a knitter and sewist based in Yorkshire. I was thrilled when Rachel asked me to write a blog post for her about BC Garn Loch Lomond. I have recently used it for the first time and, not to give away the ending or anything, I downright loved it!

I started knitting regularly at the end of 2008 – I learned when I was a child and went back to it a few times in the intervening years, but it didn’t stick until then. It may have taken some time, but I quickly became very passionate about knitting and even found a part-time job at a knitting shop for a while. Over the last 10 years, however, knitting has taken more of a back seat while I’ve been more interested in sewing. Until the end of last year, that is, when I eagerly picked it up again and haven’t slowed down.

If you’d like to see more from me, I can be found on Instagram @patsypoomakes where I share my sewing and knitting exploits from time to time and I also blog sporadically on WordPress at patsypoomakes.

Linen is a natural fiber that is produced from the flax plant. With its natural moisture-wicking abilities and lightweight, breathable nature, it's ideal for keeping you cool and dry as temperatures increase. While it may feel crisp at first, it softens with every wear and wash, giving it a beautiful drape and texture, making it ideal for creating summer garments such as dresses, tops, and lightweight shawls. 

It also takes colour beautifully as the surface of the fibre is smooth and reflects the light to give a wonderful lustre. Check out the colour palette of De Rerum Natura Antigone to see what we mean!

If you are new to linen yarns, however, it can feel a little unfamiliar at first, and let's face it, we knitters are all about our comfort! But that is where we come in because below we are sharing our tips for working with linen yarns. Let's dive in!

Our tips for working with linen

Wash your yarn

One of the most obvious differences between linen yarns compared to other natural fibres is how it feels. Linen doesn't have the same elasticity and bounce as wool or other fibres, so it can feel quite hard and even scratchy, which can initially put some makers off. 

Remember what we mentioned above though? Linen gets softer the more you wear and wash it. This process will begin as you start to work with it but don't be afraid to give your yarn a pre-wash before you even cast on. Soaking it in warm water for at least 30 minutes will help soften the fibres and make them easier to work with. Just remember to only soak your yarn when it is in a skein, not a ball, and make sure it is fully dry before you begin to work with it or it may stretch the fibres and give you an uneven gauge as it dries.

Swatch, Swatch, Swatch!

It's always important to swatch, but especially with linen yarns. As mentioned, linen doesn't have as much elasticity as other fibres and the stitches are crisp, so it can feel like they are too large. This leads to knitters pulling the yarn too tight and creating an uneven tension. Keep your stitches relaxed and be guided by your swatch. If the fabric isn't right, adjust your needle size and swatch again. It will make for a much more enjoyable knitting experience!

Once your swatch is knit, be sure to block it, even if you have previously soaked your yarn to soften it. Blocking your swatch will give you an accurate gauge and allow you to see how any stitch patterns look after washing to be sure you are happy with everything. As linen doesn't have as much elasticity as wool, more intricate stitch patterns can be difficult to work with. Complex cables, for example, can highlight tension issues making the fabric look messy.

Wash your swatch using the same method you plan to use for washing your FO (see below) for the most accurate results.

Think about your stitch pattern

As we pointed out above, not all stitch patterns will be appropriate or look the way you wish when you work with linen. While it's always worth experimenting and there are no hard and fast rules, if you are just starting out, try simple stitch patterns first like stockinette and garter. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, lace patterns are always a great choice for linen as its natural drape really opens up the design and lets the stitch pattern shine.

It's also worth mentioning too, that linen is a heavier fibre than wool, so if you do end up working with a complex stitch pattern that uses more yarn, the result will be a heavy item, and the larger the project the heavier it will get. The weight paired with the natural drape of linen could result in a FO that is much larger than you expected that continues to grow over time as it softens. So while it may look great as a swatch, it's smart to consider the final piece.

Avoid frogging if you can

At some point frogging is inevitable, but linen yarns can be tricky to get back on the needles if you've removed them to frog back, especially if you are used to working with 'stickier' fibres such as wool. Instead, try 'tinking' back one stitch at a time if you need to fix a mistake, or add lifelines at different points as you knit.

Avoid joining yarn in the middle of a row

As the surface of linen is very smooth and the stitches are crisp, inconsistencies in the fabric can be quite noticeable, even if they occur on the wrong side of your work. To prevent knots, uneven joins and bumps caused by weaving in ends, it's best to join new yarn at the beginning of a row.

Finishing

To finish, wash and block your FO in the same way you blocked your swatch. At this point, you would normally be heading to the sink to handwash your project, but it's worth noting that linen loves the washing machine and tumbler! Using them can really encourage the fabric to soften, but we would still recommend keeping temperatures low and testing this out with your swatch first to see the results as every yarn is different.

So those are our tips for working with linen! Are you already a linen fan, or did you begin a little hesitant and are now ready to give it a try? If there is anything we haven't covered here that you would like help with, please do ask us in the comments below and we'll be happy to help! Also, if you have your own tips to share in the comments, we're all ears!

Spring is here at last, but that doesn't mean we can't still indulge in cosy knitwear, especially living in the UK. A cardigan is essential to our spring and summer wardrobe, so now is a great time to think about casting on a new project.

I have just the thing for you. Today, our lovely friend and knitwear designer Lily Kate France has released a new design, the Calm Down Cardigan, and it's a beauty. You'd be mistaken to think it's a box standard stocking stitch cardigan. The Calm Down Cardigan is more complex. It has an air of Chanel sophistication; you might think this gem of a cardigan was from a fancy boutique and not a handknit. 

If you are a process knitter, you will love the overall construction of this cardigan. This project starts with the saddle shoulders as a top-down seamless knit. You work the shoulder saddles first in ribbing and go on to pick up stitches and make increases for the armholes. Clever short rows give the Calm Down Cardigan a pleasing shape. It hangs beautifully from the body and will suit many shapes and sizes. 

Every good design starts with an idea, quickly followed by finding a suitable yarn to transform an idea into reality. So when Lily visited us in December, she had a clear idea of what she was looking for in a yarn. Specifically, she wanted a DK-weight yarn that was slightly rustic yet soft, with a texture that was not too smooth and a colour that was not too flat. With this in mind, we turned to BC Garn Loch Lomond GOTS.

BC Garn Loch Lomond GOTS ticks all the boxes for Lily. It's a woollen-spun yarn DK making it lightweight, warm and soft. The colour palette consists of quiet neutrals and jewel-like colours. There are subtle flecks of tweed that bring the knitted fabric to life. Loch Lomond is also certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which ensures that the wool has been produced without harmful chemicals and in an environmentally and socially responsible way. Lily settled on the colourway Silver for the Calm Down Cardigan with the minimal tweed neps in tonal shades. 

I don't want to give too much away about the Calm Down Cardigan, only to say that Lily has exceeded all expectations in this design. It's in the little details that Lily outshines many of her peer group. She is an accomplished knitwear designer who doesn't shine away from a challenge. 

Whether you are an adventurous beginner looking for a challenge or a knitter with lots of experience, the Calm Down Cardigan is a great spring knitting project and the perfect accompaniment to your spring/summer wardrobe. Head to Lily's Ravelry store to purchase your pattern.

 
BC Garn Loch Lomond GOTS is available to order through our online shop. It comes in a wonderful array of colours, we are excited to see what colour you choose so do share your finished projects on Instagram using the hashtag #calmdowncardigan

If you are still deciding whether to cast on the Calm Down Cardigan, remember to add your favourite colour of Loch Lomond to your wishlist.

Congratulations to you and Helena on becoming proud owners of John Arbon Textiles. Thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule to chat with us today. 

What inspired you and Helena to take on the challenge of owning a textile mill, and what has been the most rewarding aspect so far?

Both Hels and I had been working at JAT for rather a while before taking the helm, so really it's just been a natural progression. When Juliet and John told us they were looking to retire, it was very much only if we fancied taking over and continuing on – I always joke that we were the only two Mill Folks foolish enough to take on all the responsibility! 

In terms of what's been most rewarding, I reckon it's exactly the same as it was when we were both employees: being able to dream up desert island yarn in our favourite shades and then a few months later, we're getting that first swatch on the needles and dreaming of projects… Pure magic every time! 

Please tell us a bit about the history of John Arbon Textiles and how you plan to build upon its legacy with your new ownership.

JAT was started by Mr John Arbon himself, along with his wife, Juliet. They owned the business for 21 years and gradually built it from the bones up. When it started, I think they were selling mostly Alpaca and finished items like socks and scarves along side yarn and tops. Initially, they were working out of a historical water-powered mill, Coldharbour, but over time John was able to re-home enough machines to be able to move to our current unit in South Molton. By this time, they were making more and more yarn for crafters – as woolly folks make the best customers – and decided a few years later to let go of the sock business entirely. It was around this time that Helena and I started, and the yarn and tops ranges began to expand a little and reflect our current offerings. 

Helena and I are both millennials, and our intention and focus with JAT is to ensure that we run it in a way that best reflects our ethics. We are adding more and more UK-grown fibre, as we strongly believe in buying locally from an environmental and economic perspective. Being employers is new for us, but as we're both socialists at heart, everyone at the mill (including ourselves) is on the same hourly wage. After all – none of this would happen without all of us Mill Folks working together as a team! Hels and I are doing our best to put down solid foundations, and once we feel like we have these in place, who knows what's next?  

Mill bobbins 

What are some of the unique challenges of running a textile mill, and how do you navigate them?

Every day is different and one has to be quite good at thinking flexibly, but then I imagine this is true in any micro business. Honestly, I've spent most of my adult life working at mills, so it all seems normal to me! 

How do you source the materials used in your fibre tops and knitting yarns, and what factors do you consider when selecting them?

We buy our fibre via two sources. We source the finer stuff like Merino and Corriedale (outside the UK) from our wool agent, the splendid Andrew Bowman. He purchases it directly from farmers in the Falklands and overseas and visits every few years to see the flocks and build those relationships.

The UK grown fibre we purchase through the British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) via auction. This is a farmer-run organisation which was set up during WWII with the aim of achieving the best possible price for producers. They do this by categorising the fibre into over 120 different grades depending on various qualities like softness, length, colour, lustre and percentage of vegetable matter, etc. Similar fibre is gathered together into a single grade, tested and then sent to auction. 

We buy specific grades and then blend these to create each of our unique yarns. From time to time, when planning a new range, we will add in a new grade (or type) of wool. When doing this, we walk the ten mins up the road to our local BWMB grading station and take a look at all the fibre on offer, give it all a squish and see what takes our fancy. 

Yarnadelic 

Can you walk us through creating a new yarn or fibre blend from conception to production?

So this is my very favourite part of the entire thing, such a magical process and never gets old! First comes the initial spark of an idea about a specific handle or feel of a yarn – or a particular way of blending shades we think will be interesting. We'll kick the idea about a bit, make a few samples, knit them up, and see what we think. After a few iterations, we'll end up with a blend which everyone is excited about, by which point, a theme and an idea of a colour palette will have emerged. Many of our ranges have specific palettes which are based on the fibre composition or production method. So once you know which qualities are most important, other factors will slot into place around this. 

Next up, the hand carders come out and all the Mill Folks have the opportunity to whip up a few shades. Then it's a case of narrowing this incredible rainbow of delights down into a palette which will work with our existing ranges whilst being different. Once this process is complete, we send it to a few pals for feedback, start working on some designs and plan the launch. This final stage of getting the yarn ready for its debut probably takes about six months, minimum, and the conception stage can't be rushed and has been known to take up to a few years. We were down at the BWMB grading station a few months back and found something new as it happens… so watch this space! 

Martha coning on Gino

What sets your products apart from other knitting yarns and fibre tops on the market in terms of quality, sustainability, or other factors?

The main thing which sets our yarn and tops apart is that we have our own mill. This means that we have greater flexibility about what we make and, in most cases, a deeper understanding of what fibre we are using and where it is coming from. Like most products out there, the majority of yarn in the world is made in giant factories by an exploited workforce. 

That being said, what we do is by no means unique – once you start hunting, there are many independent mills around the world creating beautiful, bespoke yarns. So in terms of this smaller pond, I reckon the thing that sets us apart is how we blend up our heathered shades from tops rather than dyeing the finished yarn. This allows us to make those magic shades which, from further away, appear as a solid colour but up close, have a kaleidoscope of different hues living inside them. There aren't many worsted mills using a dyed-in-the-wool process. 

Yarnadelic 

How do you engage with your customers and the broader crafting community, and what role do their feedback and suggestions play in your product development?

It's the opportunity to play with colours and the yarn that got me into the fibre industry, but it is most certainly the people who have kept me here. There are so many kind, generous, hilarious, creative souls about. We love the ideas and creativity that emerge from chatting with our customers, whether they're industry bods like dyers, designers, bloggers and yarn shop owners like yourself or someone wanting to spin and knit up the perfect shawl they've imagined in their heads. The joy of having a mill is being able to make the raw materials which then go on to fuel someone else's creative process. 

We make rather a lot of limited editions, and collaborating with other folks is always a treat. We even take to Insta Stories a few times a year and ask all our followers to help us design a limited edition shade. It is always a joy to see what folks come up with. 

What are your goals for John Arbon Textiles, and how do you plan to achieve them?

Hels and I look forward to continuing to do what we love. This year we're changing the blend in our Knit by Numbers range from 100% Merino to 50% BFL / 50% Merino. Merino is a beautiful fibre, but there is more than enough of it out there in the world without us needing to add more. The new 50/50 blend is glorious and has a little more drape and sheen than the original version, so we're excited to start sharing it with folks! 

We've also got some schemes for adding a few new yarns, down the line. But it's still early days on all of these. Designing a yarn takes time. 

Knit by Numbers

How has the COVID-19 pandemic impacted your business, and what adjustments have you made to adapt to changing circumstances?

Before Covid, we used to go to rather a lot of in-person shows, so it was a shock when all of these became an impossibility overnight! I'm rather an introvert, so it was a terrifying prospect to be suddenly hosting Zoom sessions and recording YouTube videos – not to mention a steep learning curve. Happily, all our customers seemed to enjoy our virtual witterings and, especially in the early days of lockdowns, knowing that you've brightened someone's day even a little felt worth the slight terror of waving into a camera – hehehe. 

These days we have an active YouTube channel and a number of virtual events each year. It is such a joy to be able to connect with a broader audience than would be able to attend in-person shows. That being said, nothing beats seeing folks in person and having a good ol chin wag. These days we vend at Wonderwool Wales (22nd – 23rd April, 2023) and host our own Mill Open Weekend (16th – 18th June, 2023) every year. This year we're also chuffed to be adding a return to Yarndale (23rd – 24th September, 2023) into the mix. 

What advice would you give someone interested in starting their own textile mill or yarn business?

Find your niche, and don't second guess yourself by trying to make things you think other people will like. Instead, make the thing you personally love, and chances are, plenty of other folks out there love it for all the same reasons you do. 

And remember to have fun! Running a small business can be a tad stressful at times, so it's only worth doing if you can stop and laugh with pals along the way. 

Joining us today is knitwear designer Annika Konttaniemi, Aninika lives and works in Lapland and is the author of Arctic Knitting. This recently published book features 20 knitting patterns inspired by Lapland's seasons. Discover Annika's inspiration and personal connection to Arctic knitting as we explore the world of this fascinating knitting tradition.

Thank you for joining us today Annika. Can you tell us a little about your knitting background?

Like many Finnish kids, I had a subject called handicrafts in school. There usually is a choice between woodwork and textile work. Back in the 90s, when I went to school, it was still very common for girls to choose textiles, and boys did woodwork, so I also learnt the craft in school. I found knitting challenging to learn, however and did not get excited about the craft then. In fact, I hated it! I did not knit at all for an entire decade.

Kinos by Annika Konttaniemi

I started knitting again as an art student in my early twenties to make my own sweater. DIY was a massive part of my style back then, and of course, actually still is ;) Since then, I got swept up in Ravelry, knitting everything that looked challenging and difficult. Kaffe Fassett was a source of inspiration for me, and so was Norah Gaughan with her book Natural Knitting.

I wouldn't have gotten so interested in knitting if it was not for Ravelry, which came out right around this time. I became mesmerized by the newly developing online supply of astonishing patterns. I also joined a local stitch'n'bitch group in Rovaniemi, which was initiated by an Australian. I had just been on a student exchange to the USA and was excited to find an international knitting group in my home town. Some like-minded sisters joined us over the next few years, and 15 years later, we are still best friends!

In 2014-2017 I had a brief affair with hand weaving and actually wrote some patterns for the loom as well, but I returned to knitting as I realized I was more interested in expressing myself in clothing style rather than interior design (I was mainly designing and weaving home textiles)

What inspired you to write your new knitting pattern book, Arctic Knitting?

Icelandic knitting became really popular in Finland during the covid-pandemic and lockdown. I joined a nationwide Finnish Facebook group where people knit Icelandic-style sweaters and passionately discussed them. I joined in on the conversation and realized I wanted to do more. 

Nokko by Annika Konttaniem

I then started a Youtube channel, my knitting vlog, and also provided some tutorials for basic techniques used in yoke knitting. People responded well to my channel, and I thought this might be a good time to make my knitting book. I'd worked previously with an outstanding technical editor Heli Rajavaara on some of my past knitting patterns. Once I got her and my publisher on board, I knew this could be an enjoyable book to work on. However, I wanted the book to be different from traditional Icelandic knits. Though stranded knitting in Lettlopi is fun, I wanted to do more and use other yarns.

Soutu by Annika Konttaniemi

The book's narrative is based on seasonal changes in Lapland, and I wanted the patterns to be seamless and easy to modify for more advanced knitters. The patterns in the book were designed to have more advanced design features for all the newborn knitters of the pandemic to learn. The idea is that if you were to knit through all the patterns of the book, a very beginner knitter would get a good idea of how to do a basic version of more advanced knitting techniques like pockets, slits, stitch textures, lace and stranded knitting, steeking and button holes. 

Additionally, I wanted the book to be educated on choosing colours for knitwear, so it also includes a substantial section on colour harmonies.

What is your design process, and how do you develop your knitting patterns?

I have a background in fine arts, so I approach knit design very similar to visual arts; I strive for a balance in colour, texture and composition. I often draw from my surroundings, so sometimes I make designs based on moments and places I've experienced in nature. Sometimes an animal or plant will be represented in the design. Only rarely do I make elaborate sketches or mood boards for my designs. I tend to visualize my design with my "inner eye", and then that vision somehow becomes strong enough for me to start knitting. For Arctic Knitting, I often designed with colour in mind, meaning I often aimed at precise colour representations, which also set some limits for my yarn choices.

Jäljet by Annika Konttaniemi

How does your life in Lapland and culture influence your knitting designs?

We have a very outdoorsy lifestyle, so most of my knits are appropriate for outdoor activities. I've discovered the dirt repellency of rustic wool yarns is very practical because I still do art and ceramics. Wearability and comfort are very important to me as well. I've always enjoyed outdoor clothes and denim, so I often design sweaters that go well with jeans or outdoor clothing.

What is your favourite pattern from the Arctic Knitting book, and why?

Koiju is a special pattern to me because I designed it with my father-in-law in mind. My father-in-law fishes a lot, especially vendace. Vendace is a big part of our food culture in Lapland. Koiju is where he grew up, and we spend our summers nearby. 

Koiju by Annika Konttaniemi

The yarn is Finnsheep wool in natural shades plus one watery blue shade. In this design, I chose a split-complementary colour harmony that symbolizes a natural rustic lifestyle, and the pattern simplifies the fish theme. (The black and silver vendace swim in big fish schools).

Can you share a tip or trick for knitters new to working with seamless yoke sweaters? Which design is a good pattern to start with?

Koiju is the perfect project to try top-down knitting for the first time. Vilske is a kids' sweater pattern and is an excellent project if you want a quick glimpse into how yoke sweaters are constructed when starting with the neckline. 

For bottom-up knitting, Kaamos is an enjoyable design that can be made with pockets, and excluding sleeve and hem pattern makes it easier to knit.

 Kaamos by Annika Konttaniemi

The benefit of knitting from the top down is that the piece can easily be test-fitted along the way. Sleeves and hem will also be easier to make in a length that fits your body when coming from the top.

How do you choose the yarns and materials for your knitting projects, and what factors do you consider?

I almost solely use different animal wools because animal fibres are the best to wear up here and don't need to be washed so often. We toss our sweaters and wool blankets in the snow in the winter to clean! I often choose yarns by colour, and I look for very nuanced colour combinations, so yarns like Cascade 220, Lettlopi and Rowan Felted Tweed are fantastic in the range of colours they provide.

Kuura by Annika Konttaniemi

I love looking at hand-dyed and speckled yarns in merino, but I usually use mostly semi-solids in my knits. Lately, I've been drawn to tweed, but those are difficult to come across where I live, except online. 

 
By now, I also have a pretty big stash of excellent left-over yarns at home, so I plan on designing more for scrap yarns in the future. I am also interested in making more designs for Finnsheep wool specifically.

What advice would you give someone wanting to start designing their knitting patterns?

If you haven't learnt about different constructions yet, find patterns with very different constructions. A knitted piece can be constructed in any number of ways, really, and so apart from stitches and colours, you can learn a lot about designing yourself by understanding construction.

Are there any other creative outlets or hobbies that you enjoy besides knitting?

Lately, I've been enjoying hand-building in ceramics a lot. It's so different from knitting and allows for more immediate self-expression. I also enjoy making quick watercolour sketches and have taken some illustration classes on Domestika.org.

I hope you enjoyed this interview with Annika Konttaniemi and our exploration of Arctic knitting. If you're feeling inspired to try out some of the patterns featured in her book, Artic Knitting, it is available to purchase now. Whether you're an experienced knitter or just starting out, these patterns offer a unique and beautiful way to explore the knitting traditions of Lapland. Thank you for joining us on this journey into the world of Arctic knitting!

If Lalland DK is a new-to-you yarn, let us give you the full tour. Di Gilpin is a Scottish-based knitwear design studio, operating from the beautiful Comielaw Farm on the Balcaskie Estate. As well as creating beautiful patterns and books, collaborating with businesses small and large, and teaching from their studio, they have also created their own wool label. Lalland Lambswool is produced with a local cashmere mill and then the yarn is twisted and plied to their own special recipe at Laxtons in Yorkshire - and now it is available to you here at Tangled Yarn!

Lalland DK is a light double-knit lambswool that is created with a firm two-colour twist that gives it a wonderful stitch definition with a vintage look. It comes in 21 stunning shades and a host of beautiful patterns created specifically to showcase just how special this yarn is. Shall we take a look at some of them?!

Carrington

Carrington is a beautifully textured sweater featuring a rolled funnel neck and A-line shaping through the body that gives it plenty of swing! It's pictured here in the colour Furze, a vibrant yellow that will never fail to lift your spirits, even on the rainiest days, but it would look equally lovely in a neutral such as Agate.

Lyra Fair Isle Slipover

You know we are big fans of a knitted vest here so the Lyra Fair Isle Slipover was sure to catch our eye. With all the stunning colours available, it only made sense to indulge in a little colourwork, and Di Gilpin has curated two beautiful colourways that you can choose from, though you can always put a selection together of your own too!

Colourway A; Seaglass (Agate, Crowdie, Laggan, Bellrock, Furze, Coruisk and Storm Petrel)

 Colourway B; Northern Lights (Beechnut, Driftwood, Jasper, Coral, Bell Heather, Storm Petrel and Bellrock)

Geo Yoked Fair Isle Sweater

If you are up for a slight challenge (the challenge being cables and colourwork in a yoke!) then take a look at the Geo Yoked Fair Isle Sweater. It may seem like a lot but the finished result is totally worth the effort! Here Di Gilpin used a stunning combination of colours Driftwood, Crowdie, Silver Birch, Flame and Haar.

Geo Snood

If colourwork and cables pique your interest, but the thought of trying to navigate them in a sweater is a step too far, then perhaps you can begin with the Geo Snood. Featuring the same stitch pattern as in the Yoked Fair Isle Sweater, here it takes center stage to create a visually striking snood that you’ll be reaching for year after year. It’s pictured here in colours Haar, Coille, Driftwood and Furze, and do you want to hear the bonus? Two snoods can be knit from the quantities of yarn listed for this pattern, all you have to do is swap the order of the colours!

So what do you think of our latest yarn addition? We'd love to know, have you used Di Gilpin Lalland DK before, or is it a new-to-you yarn also? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below!

Do you spot a favourite?

Don't forget you can use your wishlist at any time. Just click on the handy ‘Add To Wish List’ button on each product page and it will keep track of all your favourite items!

Friday Slipover by PetiteKnit

Vests are a fantastic first garment project, and PetiteKnit is the queen of simple, elegant pieces that are very wearable. Petiteknit has a plethora of beautiful vest patterns for both adults and children, but our favourite has to be the Friday Slipover. The sample is knit using a strand of fingering weight yarn held with a strand of lace weight mohair, but a single strand of DK weight yarn will also work.

We'd love Biches & Bûches Le Petit Silk & Mohair and Le Petit Lambswool in Nude Pink and Light Peach to hit another 2023 Knitwear trend (hello, blush sweater!), but it would look equally good in any of the stunning shades of The Fibre Co.'s Cirro.

Coco Mohair Slipover by Katrine Hannibal at Önling

We are in love with this Coco Mohair Slipover by Katrine Hannibal. Using a sport and lace weight mohair yarn held together, Coco can be made in one colour, or you can knit with changing colours of mohair to create gorgeous stripes, making it the ideal stash-busting project for any leftover mohair.

We'd make our Coco Mohair with Krea Deluxe Organic Wool 1 and Silk Mohair. Whether choosing a single colour or stripes, you'll be spoiled for choice with their selection!

Adelita by Sari Nordlund

For a slightly more challenging project with lots of texture and cables, check out Adelita from Sari Nordlund. With thoughtful details such as a split hem mirrored by the front cable panel that splits to form the v-neck, it's sure to become your go-to garment to keep you cosy in the cooler months. 

Kelbourne Woolens Scout would work beautifully here and really let those cables and the texture pop!

The Academic by Skeindeer Knits

If you want to add a vintage vibe to your wardrobe, look no further than The Academic by Skeindeer Knits. This is more of an advanced project, as colourwork and steeking are involved, but it's certainly worth it for this timeless pattern. Also, steeking looks scarier than it is!

The Academic calls for a fingering/sport weight yarn, and the colour selection of Garthenor's Preseli will give you so many options and is a dream to work with.

Cloud Slipover by Ksenia Naidyon

We know steeks and colourwork aren't for everyone, so if your dream project is something big and cosy that will fly off your needles in no time, the Cloud Slipover by Ksenia Naidyon may be the answer. It has a cosy, squishy texture with a voluminous cowl neck to keep out the cold winter air. Knit in a bulky weight yarn, you will be wearing it in no time, and when made with The Fibre Co's Tundra, you won't want to take it off!

What do you think? Do you have a favourite vest pattern from here, or do you have one we missed? Share it with us in the comments below, and remember, you can save all your favourite items by clicking on the handy 'Add To Wish List' button on each product page to save all of your favourite items right here on the website.

Just so you know, at the time of publishing this blog post, there is still time to place your orders for Christmas delivery, but just in case you are reading this after December 12th, all of these projects are super stash-dive friendly, so let's take a look.

Sophie Scarf by Petiteknits

Worked back and forth in one piece, The Sophie scarf is knit from tip to tip in garter stitch with built-in i-cord edges. Beautifully simple but with those thoughtful details that Petiteknits has because so well-loved for. It only uses one 50g skein of DK-weight yarn and would be perfect for Cardiff Cashmere Classic.

Easy Headband by Sari Nordlund

If you have multiple gifts still needing to be knit, a simple headband might be just the thing! They're quick to make and are so handy through the winter, so you know they will get a lot of use. This pattern uses a fingering weight yarn held double with a laceweight mohair, but you can also use a single strand of a DK weight yarn.

Koas Organic Soft Merino and Kaos Organic Brushed Alpaca would work beautifully, or for just a DK weight, The Fibre Co. Arranmore Light comes in the most beautiful colours!

Tiilda Hat by Inese Sang

If you are looking for a super speedy project with a little drama then the Tiilda hat may be for you. With its chunky cables and cosy ribbing, it screams winter cosiness, and as it is knit in a bulky weight yarn you can have it completed in just one evening. Kaos Chunky Andean Wool would work so well, and the colour range is fantastic!

Braven Mitts by Ruth Werwai

The Braven Mitts were designed with beginners in mind, so if you would love to gift a pair of handmade mittens this year but haven't quite got your head around knitting in the round, these mittens are ideal. They are knit flat and seamed at the end and are a great introduction to cables. They call for a worsted weight yarn and would look great knit in Erika Knight Wool Local Aran, or for a completely different look, how about CaMaRose Snefnug?

Mistake Stitch Rib Hat by The Fibre Co.

 The Mistake Stitch Rib Hat was designed to make the most of a single skein of The Fibre Co. Tundra, their gorgeous bulky weight yarn. If you are wanting to add a pom pom, that does take more yarn than a single skein, but then that's what those leftovers are for in your stash!

'Wish' you could save your favourites?

Don't forget you can use your wishlist at any time. Just click on the handy ‘Add To Wish List’ button on each product page and it will keep track of all your favourite items!

Christmas Posting & Holidays

Royal Mail has brought the cut off date forward for delivery before Christmas. The last advised day to send a parcel is Monday 19 December for Express delivery (Tracked 24). We feel this is cutting it a little fine as there is somewhat of a backlog due to the strikes. Our recommendation is to order before 2 pm on Monday 12 December for our UK customers. 

We will continue to post orders up until Friday 23 December, please order before 2 pm. We will then be taking a much needed break and will return in the New Year Tuesday 3 January. 

Wray

The Wray cardigan was Lily Kate's first published design in 2010.

My first published design was the Wray cardigan for The Knitter Magazine, released days before my 13th birthday in November 2010. The publication came about as a result of a chance conversation with Juliet Bernard, then Editor-in-chief. I was sitting on a hay bale at a woolly gathering in Grasmere (where all the cool tweens hang out, I'm sure you'll agree). Obviously, I was beyond excited to have my name in print and for people to knit actual clothes following my pattern. Back then, I kept my first published pattern under wraps and didn't let on to any of my peers. Unlike now, I'll shout about knitting from the rooftops and talk stitches to anybody who'll listen.

Haslam Scarf

Lily designed the Haslam Scarf as a teenager.

As a young teen, I designed quite a few accessories for my own Ravelry store and for other publications, some of which I still wear to this day. The Haslam Scarf has recently been resurrected as I like narrow scarf and shawl shapes once again – funny how trends come back around so quickly!

Art Deco Skirt

The Art Deco Skirt was inspired by the lines of the Chrysler building. 

Knitting doesn't feature on any GCSE / A-level textiles curriculums here in the UK, much to my disappointment. Imagine how many more potential knitters may exist if it did? Luckily my teachers were happy to indulge my passion and allow me to do my own thing (read: give myself 10x more work than necessary), and for my GCSE exam piece, I made a lace, ribbed, bodycon midi skirt inspired by the lines of the Chrysler building. It was complex, frustrating, time-consuming, and SO SATISFYING to make. The pattern will never ever be written up (please give my head a wobble if I think that's a good idea).

Lawrenson Sweater

The puff sleeves of the Lawrenson Sweater brought Lily's designs to the forefront.

We'll fast forward through the few years when knitting wasn't as big a part of my life. I focused on A-levels, started my Astronomy degree, and worked across travel blogging, modelling, and photography (creative jack of all trades just about covers it). I always knitted, but FOs were less frequent, and the patterns needed to be written up. Until the lightbulb moment in the Spring of 2019, it dawned on me that if I could make a 'thing' of this as a young teenager, I should probably make a 'thing' of it again as a (supposed) adult. Part of me wishes I'd had this realisation sooner (and written notes for those sweaters I freestyled!), but overall a break from the knitting industry was valuable. I was able to see it with fresh eyes. Instagram now existed, and starting my @lilykatemakes account gave me a new focus and opportunity to connect with knitters worldwide in a different way than the Ravelry forums of 2008.

The Lawrenson Sweater wasn't my first item after re-joining the knitting world, but it was the sweater that kicked things off. It felt (and still feels) so 'me'. It was the first of many puff sleeves, for starters! The phrases' elegant everyday' and 'casual vintage' have been used to describe my design style. I love that, especially since it's an aesthetic developed naturally over time. The Lawrenson sweater uses Aran weight yarn, knits up quickly, and is seamless. I've been told it makes a great first sweater for newer knitters.

Livingstone Vest

The Livingstone Vest is a bestseller.

The Livingstone Vest is possibly my quickest turnaround to date! I was inspired and figured that striking while the iron was hot would be wise. The yarn was purchased, swatches were knit, calculations were made, and I turned my sketches into a finished garment in around 5 days. Grading was challenging but satisfying, so off the pattern went to test knitters to be released a month later. This pattern writing speed was fuelled by sheer excitement about an item different from anything I'd created. It remains a bestseller to this date.

AXIS by Lily Kate

AXIS is a worsted weight yarn making is perfect for accessories and garments

From knitwear designer to Yarn Person! When the opportunity arose to have my own yarn line in collaboration with Fyberspates, obviously, I jumped at the chance. Jeni and I have known each other for a long time – I designed and modelled for her books back in 2011 – so developing AXIS by Lily Kate together felt like a significant next step. I had complete control over the fibres, colours, name, label, shade names, patterns and everything creative, whilst Fyberspates dealt with everything else. That is an excellent setup for me! AXIS is a worsted weight blend of 90% non-superwash merino and 10% undyed Suri alpaca, now available in 16 colours with a variety of supporting patterns.

Over It Slipover

Everyone should have the Over It Slipover in their wardrobe, a key staple for 2023.

Oh, how I adore this one. The Over It Slipover is relatively new, but I'm sure it will remain a favourite for some time. As a designer, creativity can ebb and flow. There are periods when I simply need more hours in the day to knit all my ideas. Everything turns out exactly as I'd imagined (or better!), and there are periods when nothing seems to work. I rip back the same upper sleeve 5 times before calling it quits. Which, as you can imagine, is not conducive to creativity. The Over It Slipover followed a period of creative frustration and re-ignited my love for the whole process. It's been well received at yarn shows and online, which feels very rewarding!

I could go on and on but shall leave it there. You can find me on Ravelry and on Instagram as @lilykatemakes. Best wishes for your knitting and the memories it holds. Thanks so much Rachel for featuring me!

Love Lily xx

Hello everyone! It's Claire here from Flossi, and I'm so happy to be joining Rachel, not only here on the blog, but for the launch of a new cardigan pattern we've collaborated on that will be released on Tuesday 18th. Joanie is a dropped-sleeve, v-neck cardigan of cosy goodness, and a lot of that cosiness is due to the yarn we chose.

When Rachel and I were discussing the pattern, I jumped at the chance to work with Biches & Buches Le Petit Lambswool and Le Petit Mohair & Silk. Their yarns are so beautiful and work gloriously on their own, but when you combine them, you get such a special fabric. It's light as a cloud and so soft and warm. It also comes in a stunning array of colours, and for Joanie, we chose Candy for the Lambswool and Grey/Beige for the Mohair/Silk.

As with most of the knitting trends, I was more than fashionably late to the 'holding double with mohair' party, but once I got here, I didn't want to leave. If you've never tried it or wondered what 'holding double' means, you hold two strands of yarn at the same time and knit with them as if they are one. You can do this with any yarn, and even combine more than two if you wish. Over the past few years, this technique has become really popular for using with mohair, and it's a trend that isn't going anywhere soon. It adds a gorgeous halo to the fabric, and as you are combining two different yarns yourself, the colour options are endless and allow you to get really creative!

But what if you don't want to use mohair?

While I'm a huge fan of the mohair trend and holding yarns double, there are a few reasons why you may not want to use it, or simply are unable to use it. In these cases, it can be frustrating to see a pattern you would like to make, but be unsure of what yarn to use because the pattern is suggesting this technique. Let's take a look at some reasons why holding yarn double with mohair may not be an option, and some alternatives!

Allergies

As lovely as mohair is, it can often be not so lovely to wear if you are allergic to it. One solution is to use an alternative fibre such as alpaca. There has been an increase in lace weight, brushed alpaca yarns appearing that work well as an alternative to mohair yarn, and a great example is Kaos Organic Brushed Alpaca.

If animal fibres in general cause you issues though, don't be afraid to try out your prefered plant-based or synthetic fibres too. While you may not get the same look as the original sample, that doesn't mean it won't be just as nice, and probably even more so, if it means you are comfortable and wearing something that you love!

Financial Accessibility

Mohair is a beautiful, luxury fibre, so understandably, it can come with a higher price tag than some other yarns. While it's lovely to indulge in projects that you know you are going to wear for years to come, the truth is it often just isn't financially possible.

One option is to look at an alternative fibre to mohair. As we have already mentioned, there are some fantastic lace-weight brushed alpaca yarns, which often come at a lower price point, which may make more sense for your yarn budget.

But, even if you use a more budget-friendly alternative to the mohair, the truth is it's always going to be more costly to hold two yarns double because you are essentially purchasing two lots of yarn for your project. If this has held you back from knitting certain patterns in the past, then please don't let it, because you can totally knit patterns written for two yarns held double with one single strand!

Matching fibre

If you are hoping to achieve the same look as the original sample, but only using a single strand, look for yarns that combine the fibres used in the original yarn. It doesn't have to be an exact match, but something close that will give you a similar fabric. For example, Joanie is a combination of lambswool, mohair and silk. It's the 'toothiness' of the lambswool that gives it the structure, and it’s the light airy texture of the mohair that gives it its gorgeous halo. Kelbourne Woolens Andorra is 60% Merino wool, 20% Highland wool and 20% mohair, so this would be a great alternative option for Joanie. 

Of course, you may not be too worried about creating the same look for your finished project, so in this case, you'd be less concerned about the fibre content, and more focused on finding a yarn that will give you gauge. This leads us to...

How to know what weight to choose when using a single-strand yarn

This is the part that knitters often struggle with; What weight of yarn should you choose when using a single strand of yarn instead of two?

When you hold a yarn double, the length of the yarn you are using doesn't change, but the overall weight does. So if you are looking to use a single strand of yarn in place of a double strand, the important thing to look at is how many grams there are compared to the yardage when the two yarns are combined.

For example, if you are holding two fingering weight yarns double that are 420 yds per 100g, the length of the yarn isn't going to change, because both of the yarns are being knit at the same time, but the weight of the yarn doubles:

100g x 2 = 200g per 420 yds

We now know how many yards there are in 200g, but it's more helpful to work out the yardage to 100g, so we simply divide the yardage in half to get our answer:

420 / 2 = 210 yds per 100g

So now we know we need to find a yarn with a yardage of around 210 yds in 100g, which falls into a worsted weight category. 

Working with two different weights of yarn

When you are working with two different weight yarns it can be a little more complicated, but the same rules apply! You need to work out how many grams there are between the two yarns over the same distance of yarn. Let's do a quick hypothetical example:

You have your fingering weight yarn that is 420 yds in 100g, but this time you are holding it double with a lace weight yarn that is 210 yds in 25g. I always find it easier to work out the yardage to the nearest 100g, so let's start by working out how many yards are in 100g of the lace-weight yarn:

100g / 25g = 4 (so we have to multiply the yardage by 4 to find out how many yards are in 100g)

210 yds x 4 = 840 yds in 100g

So we now know that in 100g, the fingering weight has 420 yards and the lace weight had 840 yards. We now need to work out how many grams of yarn there are over the same distance, so let's see how many 100g skeins of the fingering weight yarn we need to match the yardage of the lace weight yarn:

840 (the lace weight) / 420 = 2 100g skeins of the fingering weight yarn

So to match the same yardage, we now know we need 200g of the fingering weight yarn and 100g of the lace weight yarn:

200g + 100g = 300g per 840 yds

Now let's work it out per 100g:

840 yds / 3 = 280 yds per 100g

We now have our yarn weight for the single strand of yarn we need to replace the two held double! 

Alternate yarn for Joanie

If you are interested in knitting the Joanie cardigan but would like a few yarn options to choose from, then you are in luck! Below are some gorgeous yarns that you could use (available right here at Tangled Yarn!), with options for holding yarns double, and for using a single strand. That's right, I've done all the maths so you don't have to! 

Yarns held double: 

• Lanivendole Stormy Blend or A Chic Blend & Kaos Organic Brushed Alpaca (no mohair)
• Lanivendole Aestiva & Fyberspates Cumulus (no mohair)

Single strand yarn options:

• Yarnadelic Sport by John Arbon
• The Fibre Co. Cirro (No mohair)

I hope you have found this post helpful! If you have any questions at all, or are struggling to decide on your yarn for a project, remember you can always reach out to Rachel for help! And if you have any questions about Joanie, please feel free to get in touch at hello@flossiknits.com. 

Claire has been self-publishing patterns since 2016, she has also had patterns published by Making Stories and Laine. you can find Claire's designs on her wesbite www.flossiknits.com and she has a YouTube Channel where you can follow what Claire has been making.

I often wile away the wee small hours browsing Instagram; this is how I discovered Pixie Yarn. There was an instant attraction to the rich jewel tones of her yarn!

Sophie has an excellent eye for colour; she can take an undyed skein of yarn and transform it into something quite spectacular. Her colours have genuine depth and a richness that shows a true understanding of hand-dying. It didn't take me very long to ask Sophie to dye up some yarn for us here at Tangled Yarn, and I was so happy when she said yes!

I managed to catch up with Sophie last week to find out a bit more about Pixie Yarn...

Tell us a bit about yourself? 

Hi, I'm Sophie, the owner/dyer at Pixie Yarn. I live in rural Somerset in the UK with my husband, 2 teenage boys, a couple of kooky cats, Houdini the chicken and yarn. There is always lots of yarn!


Where does the name Pixie Yarn come from?

My Mum's side of the family is from Cornwall, and I love the lucky Cornish Pixie she's always carried with her keys.Grandma was either knitting or darning socks for their large family. One of Mum's brothers knit beautiful Fair Isle jumpers. So it seemed a fitting nod to my Cornish, woolly roots.

How did you start dyeing yarn, and when did it become a business?

I was so inspired by the beautiful hand-dyed yarns other knitters were using, but I could not buy any at the time. I studied textiles at uni many moons ago and figured dyeing yarn might be something I could turn my hand to for my own knitting projects.

I dyed my first skein of yarn in 2016 and fell in love with the process instantly! From then onwards, I wanted to spend as much time dyeing yarn as I could. After a year of learning and experimenting, I opened my Etsy shop. I filled the shop with project bags to begin with, just in case my yarn didn't sell. I needn't have worried! For 2 years, I put everything back into the business, and we lived on toast whilst I saved for a studio. I moved out of our tiny kitchen and into my own dedicated dye space in January 2020. Little did I know how perfect that timing would be as we entered lockdown shortly afterwards.

Can you remember the first colourway you ever created?

Oh yes! My Christmas colour 'There's Soot In My Sack' closely followed by 'Kitty Ate The Tinsel'. I still dye both of them in the winter months. They are like old friends, so many memories are entwined with them.

What fibres do you like to work with?

My favourite yarn to dye is merino single-ply. It takes the dye so beautifully, like nothing else. It's my go-to yarn for shawls, as the drape is perfect. My most popular yarn base for the shop is fingering weight sock yarn merino/nylon. My favourite spinning fibre to dye and spin is BFL/Seacell, such fun to dye and has a lovely sheen. I try to keep a variety of bases and weights of yarn and fibre in rotation, depending on the season.

What dyeing processes do you use?

As many as I can! I've experimented with lots of different techniques over the years and still use a good mix of them now, sometimes even several on one skein. I dye in catering pans and large stock pots on gas burners. I love speckling, it's so much fun to watch the dyes break and set. But even wearing a respirator and with good ventilation, I am mindful of the airborne dye particles, a good reason to switch around techniques. Resist techniques are fun and build up lots of layers of colour. Low immersion dyeing is excellent for variegated yarns.

What's your favourite colourway from your current range?

Probably Picotee... or maybe Mirkwood. I enjoy dyeing all kinds of colours, but I'm really a fan of rich jewel tones for my own knitting projects.

What are the highlights and challenges of running an indie dyeing business?

I love my days in the studio dyeing yarn, introverting. It's a beautiful space that is all mine, and I still can't believe I spend my days playing with colour! Creating custom dyes for people, you learn so much and visit corners of the colour wheel you maybe wouldn't instinctively visit. I often find myself falling in love with colours I didn't think I was that fond of. Fades are another highlight; creating the jump from one to another is a challenge but satisfying when you see it all come together at the end. Flinging dye around is hugely satisfying. I'm definitely more on the creative end of the scale rather than the scientific one! The very long hours are challenging. If I'm awake, I'm usually working; it always occupies your mind. Yarn dyeing is extremely physically demanding. I live with some chronic illnesses that can be a bit of a juggling act. Naps are essential! But I am so very thankful for the business that my circumstances have allowed me to build.

Where do you find your inspiration?

Everywhere all of the time! There is so much inspiration around, from the landscape to packaging, vinyl covers, films, graffiti, dreams; the list is endless. Sometimes it is just a case of 'I wonder what would happen if...'

What has been your proudest achievement?

This will sound cheesy, but my proudest achievement is usually the last, which just happens to be working with you. Honestly, I still can't quite believe I will be alongside my all-time favourite dyers. Unless you count childbirth? That tops everything, hands down!

Pixie Yarn Sock is available now to order through our online shop; we have 20 beautiful colours in stock.

If you love Sophie's work you can find her on Instagram as @pixieyarn, also through her website www.pixieyarn.co.uk

Tell us a bit about yourself – where do you live, and if with family/pets? 

I have two young kiddos and chihuahua/pug mix named Fargo! My small family moved to Maine a little less than 2 years ago. We love living close to the ocean and getting out for hikes in this beautiful part of the country! I have to live in a place with all four seasons, and Maine does not disappoint!

How did you learn to knit? 

My amazing Grandma Ginny taught me to knit when I was about 9 years old. I thanked her every time I saw her for giving me such a gift that really shaped my life. She passed away 2 years ago, and my knitting keeps her close to me. I think about her with every stitch that passes over my needles.

How did you get into designing? 

When I really got into knitting again as a teenager, I relied on my Elizabeth Zimmerman books to teach myself how to knit different things. Her books are amazing guides that really empowered me to begin designing right from the start! I spent my twenties as a baker, and have always found pattern writing to be really similar to writing recipes. Once my first child was born, I decided to try publishing my first pattern. It has been almost 6 years since then, and I've never looked back!

How would you describe your design style? 

I think, above all, I am curious. I like to learn, so I am constantly playing with new stitch patterns and techniques. I think the constant in my work is I almost always involve color and texture! Those are the ingredients that make knitting super engaging for me. It's hard to set down a project when you are having fun with a stitch pattern of you just can't wait to add the next color!

What has been your most popular design? 

Can I do two? ;) I'd have to say Find Your Fade and The Weekender!

The Weekender, one of Andrea's most popular designs. 

Tell us more about your design (Mondim Socks) for Black Lives Matter. You've raised a lot of money so far, how can knitters support this fundraising? 

The Mondim Socks are a really fun knit with toe-up construction, a Fleegle heel and some ribbed lace that makes for a comfy fit. I wanted to raise more money then I could donate by myself by utilizing one of my patterns. They cost $7 and I am donating all of the proceeds (so the entire $7) to support the Black Lives Matter movement for all of 2020. Knitters can purchase the Mondim socks in my Ravelry shop (or of course donate directly to the foundation of their choice!)

Mondim Socks knit in Retrosaria Mondim

What is your favourite thing about being a designer? 

Seeing knitters knitting and wearing my patterns. I feel so honored when someone chooses my pattern, and then to see the joy and pride on their face as they show off their finished project - it's just the best! (And, of course - Knitting! I always say I knit all day for work and then knit all night to relax.)

What inspires you? 

Color and texture. I love to utilize them (separately or together) to create movement thru a piece.

Do you have a favourite knitting technique that you couldn't live without? 

Oh, this can shift and change with my mood. Sometimes its brioche, most the time its bobbles. How do you choose?? You know what - I'm gonna go with Garter stitch. It's so reliable and SO squishy!

Which other designers do you admire? 

All of them! I admire any artist putting their work out into the world. It is so vulnerable and takes courage. Norah Gaughan has always been on the top of my list - her patterns are so clever and always among my all time favorites.

Andrea Mowry designs under the label Drea Renee Knits, discover more of Andrea's designs on her website. If you like a printed pattern we do stock a wide selection of Andrea's designs here at Tangled Yarn. You can also follow Andrea on Instagram, she can be found as @dreareneeknits.

All images are © Andrea Mowry

Rosy Green Wool has just launched their 11th series of limited edition colours to their beautiful Cheeky Merino Joy. Fresh and uplifting, the new colours are sure to bring a ray of hope to your knitting this winter!

There are three new colours Frost, Olive and Seaweed. They work in harmony together as a trio when knitting a three colour shawl such as Melanie Berg's Drachenfels or Matilda Kruse's Joyful Shawl with its garter stitch stripes. 

Seaweed has khaki tones, bringing a classy dark green with a hint of grey. This beautiful shade, while working well with its partners works wonderfully on its own for a cardigan or sweater, how about casting on Matilda's Flow Sweater or April Cardigan. 

Fancy a colour pop to your next knitting project? Then Olive with its zesty greenish-yellow tone which will pack a punch. Palmetto by Emilia Jensen would look amazing with Olive used as one of the contrast colours combined with Frost for the striped epaulette and two colour ribbing. If you feel like being a little more adventurous in your knitting, then why not cast on Luna by Anna Strandberg. The brioche in this sweater would look incredible with Seaweed as the background colour and Frost coming to the foreground. If colourwork is more up your street then perhaps you should consider knitting Erika Åberg's Visborg, how lovely would this be in Seaweed and Frost?

These three lovely new colours bring our range of colours for Cheeky Merino Joy to 48! Frost, Olive and Seaweed are only available for a limited time; once they are gone, it's highly unlikely we will be able to get more. 

Here are a few other knitting patterns you may wish to knit this season.

• Rosemary by Matilda Kruse
• Let it Fall by Matilda Kruse
• Deleite by Kari-Helene Rane

Rosy Green Wool was this week awarded a platinum rating by Four Paws for their efforts against mulesing. Well done Rosie, Patrick and the Rosy Green team for this aclaimed award.

You can find more information on mulesing on the Four Paws website on their page "Wool with a Butt".

Please note that all the merino yarns we stock here at Tangled Yarn are mulesing-free, animal welfare is important to us as a yarn seller. 

I was asked just the other day if I knew what would be popular among knitters this coming year, I can only say what I see on my Instagram feed and Ravelry, but the trend of brushed alpaca and mohair are set to stay it would seem. I'm thrilled that this is the case as I've been longing to cast on PetiteKnit's Sunday Sweater which is designed to be knit in CaMaRose Snefnug held double with a silk mohair lace.

My desire to knit Sunday Sweater lead me to CaMaRose a Danish company owned and run by Trine Bertelsen. Trine started her company in 2010; she works closely with mills in Italy and Peru to produce her yarns. Before this Trine was a freelance knit designer, she continues to design both knitting and crochet patterns but now for her yarn.

I've been waiting very patiently for CaMaRose to restock their hugely popular yarn Snefnug. Snefnug has a cotton mesh tube as the core with a luscious blend of merino and baby alpaca blown into it, making it a hard-wearing but super soft, light and airy. It comes in a wide range of colours from pale pinks to zesty lime. We have 20 colours currently available. 

Trine from CaMaRose has designed several patterns for Snefnug; her designs include those for children as well as adults. Dreamy Cardigan in both adult and children sizes. 

Darling by PixenDk is on my shortlist to knit, a simple sweater with a lacy panel and puff sleeves will look great worn with jeans. 

Talk about serendipity, independent designer Vanessa Pellisa has also released a new design this week for Snefnug. Kume Sweater is a seamless sweater that is worked from the bottom up and features a simple cable on the side seams and sleeves. 

Snefnug knits up to a gauge of 12 - 16 stitches on needle size 4 - 6mm so can be used for both Aran and chunky knitting patterns making it an excellent alternative to chunky yarns. Snefnug can be used as a substitute for Woolfolk Luft and has been used to knit The Daily by Andrea Mowry, Kouhei by Whitney Hayward from Issue 7 of Laine Magazine and Turtle Dove by Espace Tricot.

While spring is just around the corner, there is always a need to knit something lovely to pull on for those days when you need to hibernate. I hope this has given you a few ideas of what to cast on next.

Hearing the words, I'm sorry you have breast cancer in October 2017 brought my world crashing down! 

I'd found a lump in my left breast, it was painful, and I'd heard that pain was a good sign, it was likely to be a cyst, nothing as sinister as cancer. I saw my GP the following day, she referred me to our local hospital, and I was seen a week later. After a mammogram and ultrasound, the consultant gave me the news I really wasn't expecting; it was a tumour. So a biopsy was taken, and after a week's wait, I told that it was breast cancer. And that they were now waiting for further results to confirm the type of breast cancer so that a treatment plan could be put in place. 

I'm not telling you this to scare you but to let you know that there's always hope. I'm here today two years on after chemo, a mastectomy and immune targeted therapy.

Early discovery and taking action saved my life. Making checking your breasts as part of your daily/weekly routine is so important. In the UK, women aged 50 to 70 are invited for breast screening every three years so do attend. Survival rates have improved, the earlier it is diagnosed, the better the chance of successful treatment. 

• Breast cancer is the most common cancer in the UK
• around 55,000 women are diagnosed with breast cancer each year
• men can get breast cancer
• it affects younger women although it's more common in women over 50 

Breast Cancer Now does an incredible job of educating and supporting women with breast cancer. This month is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Tangled Yarn will be supporting Breast Cancer Now during October and will be making a company donation to the charity.

If you'd like to make a donation to Breast Cancer Now you can do so through our Just Giving Page.

Resources

• Breast Cancer Now
• Cancer Research UK
• Macmillan Cancer Support

I love knitting cowls; they are a great way to accessorise an outfit especially during the colder months where you need to wrap up and keep warm!

One of my all-time favourite yarns for knitting cowls is Mrs Moon Plump; a blend of merino and baby alpaca this is a super chunky roving yarn. Knitted up Plump creates a lightweight but warm fabric making it ideal for keeping out the winter chill!

Here are my favourite cowl patterns to knit in a super chunky yarn like Mrs Moon Plump.

1. Fisherman's Rib Cowl in Four Gauges 

Fisherman’s Rib is a simple cowl. The fisherman's rib stitch pattern creates a cosy fabric with unmatched warmth and volume; it's perfect for knitting in Mrs Moon Plump, shown here in the colour Gooseberry Fool. 

2. Toffee Cowl 

Super simple and quick to knit up, this lovely soft cowl twists to fit snuggly around the neck to keep you warm. The clever zig-zag pattern is reversible, so there is no wrong side! You can download Toffee Cowl free when you purchase the yarn from our store.

3. Frost at Midnight Cowl 

 Frost at Midnight Cowl is by designer Helen Stewart of Curious Handmade. A quick knitting project this cowl needs just two skeins of Plump and can easily be finished in a couple of hours making it a great last minute gift knit.  

4. Marion 

Marian by Jane Richmond

Marian is a free pattern on Ravelry. Easy, quick knitting this is an ideal project for a beginner looking to learn to knit in the round. You could also try casting Marian on in Mrs Moon Podgy.

5. Varm 

A twisting cable sandwiched between garter stitch, Varm is knit flat beginning with a provisional cast on and then joined to create the cowl. The cable is pretty in reverse too! To knit in Mrs Moon Plump you'll need just two skeins.