Are you a NEW buyer or USED buyer? The difference being; a new buyer will most often loose money on the eventual sale of the camper, whereas a used buyer, if done right and timed well, will probably make money on the sale of the camper, at worst, the used buyer will retain much of their purchase price on the eventual sale. The old adage is true; “You make your money when you buy”

This article is about maximising your return on investment and buying below market value is the most obvious way to achieve this. You’re also correct if you buy a new camper far enough below market value that you can sell it for more at a later stage.

Here’s an important tip: Be careful you don’t get so caught up in finding a bargain that you miss the greatest opportunity! The freedom of camping is a great opportunity. To have fun that the whole family can enjoy is priceless especially with kids.  What Im saying though is, getting outdoors doesn’t have to be expensive AND can even be profitable.

Now let’s get down to bargain hunting!  Sellers basically fall into one of three categories;

1. those that are seeking to upgrade or change
2. those that are cashing out.
3. those that have already upgraded or changed and haven’t yet sold their old camper

The second and third categories are where you will find the best buying opportunities because they have not taken the option of trading in and prefer the DIY selling method. If they have already upgraded and still have to sell their old camper, they are more likely in a position where they need to sell and have the “dont want it” mentality.  It’s often the case that people who purchase new and wont have it any other way, also expect to loose money on the resale of the item. After all, we are talking about depreciating assets. That’s why its important to buy the best available for much less than market value, if you want to avoid loosing money on the item when you sell it.

To find a good deal on a camper the first place you can eliminate is “Dealerships” or advertising by dealerships”.  Caravan dealers who sell used CV’s, have priced in their margin. The brand name dealerships will usually come by their used campers by trade-ins and are capable of giving the seller a higher perceived price for their CV. (CV meaning: Camper Vehicle = RV’s, Camper Trailers, Campervans, Caravans).  If you were able to get to the seller before they trade in, you might have a better chance of buying at the “right price”.  There are also tricks to be aware of when buying a used CV from a dealer. For example; they will often remove the jockey wheel and annex from the sale and offer these separately for increased price.  It stinks, because every camper needs a jockey wheel and an annexe will give good resale value if you buy it with the camper.  These items cost about $60 and $1800 respectively! Better in your pocket than not.

Now, focusing on category 2 and 3 sellers, you will find that most will place an advertisement, some will rely on word of mouth. The type of CV will largely determine  where you will find the For Sale ads.  For example; Motorhomes of the Winnebago or Swagman type are best exposed via RVPoint.com.au because the potential buyer will be looking in all states and prepared to travel to pick up the vehicle.  The site also provides detailed description with photos that can be enlarged and direct contact with the seller.  If the site was not “buyer friendly” it would not work as well for sellers.

Ebay Advertisement

The same is true for camper trailers of the Jayco, Coromal and Goldstream pop top type. The best place to find these types of CV’s is Ebay.com.au and Trading Post.  You will also find these CV’s in newspaper classifieds where there is a strong classified section for major capital cities.  I prefer Ebay and Trading post because if you know what you are buying a good camper can be purchased online using photos and communication with the seller over the internet and email. I did just this recently with great success.

Using these sites first will allow you to make comparisons between price and different models of CV’s which is a fast track method to educating yourself in preparation for finding a bargain. Ebay has excellent photo options for viewing items for sale, and communication channels that allow easy transfer of additional photos should you need to see more.

Trading Post Search Results

Trading Post is popular with sellers because it’s a well known publication Australia wide and has good representation in its camper categories for CV’s.  Both websites have an essential search bar to the left of the screen that allows users to enter the particular make of the CV to produce a current list of available CV’s for sale.  People seeking a camper will mostly look in their own state and within a radius of 1-2 hrs travelling time.

You might want to think about buying interstate if you live in Queensland since CV’s seem to be valued less in New South Wales and Victoria than in Queensland. A Qld Camper Checklist customer recently purchased in NSW and paid far less than what they would have in Qld. They made a trip out of the return journey taking a week to get back, in the process ironing out any bugs and getting their camping list together.

Now that you know the best places to search for CV bargains, make a habit of checking these sites regularly as new listings come online daily all over Australia. Be prepared to travel interstate if necessary, getting directions is easy using Google Maps or satellite navigation.  By using the Camper Purchase Checklist you will have all the tools needed to help you identify the best deal then secure it on favourable terms between the seller and the buyer. Also, if you sit around and predetermine the outcome without calling upon an advertisement or making an enquiry, you will not find the best opportunities.  If you are serious about saving money on the purchase, then you need to be making enquiries and maybe even offers over the phone and upon inspection.

Best of luck, and remember to be patient.

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Make your own quality beer at home, and stock up for your next camping trip!

Let me ask you a question. Are you sick and tired of spending your hard earned money on bottle after bottle of expensive beer? Or maybe you’re sick of watered down, low cal, low carb, light or imported beers and the like that are either expensive or lack taste and the body of a REAL BEER?

Help has now arrived! We’ve found this unique beer brewing guide that will allow anyone to make great tasting quality beer from the comfort of their home, garage or caravan if you like. Its easy to follow and utilises some everyday items found around the home/campsite.  As you know, one of the luxuries of camping is to enjoy a cold beer whenever you like. Wouldn’t it be great to not only save money on buying case after case, but impress others with your tasty home brewing skills and your endless supply of almost free beer.

Click Here to learn more or access this product immediately

Whether buying your first camper, upgrading or just thinking about it, the Camper Purchase Checklist will help clarify your thoughts and prevent you from missing the most important considerations in the decision making process.  If you experienced difficulty downloading your Checklist kit after payment, please send me a message via the Contact page.

The Camper Purchase Checklist is a complete camper buyer’s tool-kit containing:

• The BIG list of  important items you need to check when buying a camper
  
• Bill of Sale agreement to secure your interests as a buyer
• Cost Calculator for you to assess the expense of buying the camper (bonus #1)
  
• Research form for recording all the necessary information from your dealings with a seller
• Additional instructions about things to check when buying
• Inquiry register to record and keep track of campers you have enquired about
  
• Plus 2 bonus document lists for your use
  

For those who are using the Camper Purchase Checklist, share your comments, tell readers about your buying experience.

WARNING: Self proclaimed “Experts” will find no value in this material.

Members: Click Here to watch a video about what to check when buying.

Presuming you have a caravan, campervan, camp trailer or poptop camper with a 3 way fridge, it will be necessary to “fire it up” and keep the food cold until you reach your destination. As simple as it may seem, getting this process right can sometimes be a challenge if you haven’t used the camper for a while or you have a lot on your mind, or you are too busy and likely to forget some other important thing.  Well I’ve put together these instructions to follow for “preparing the camper fridge”, and although there are many different types of fridges and set ups, I hope you get the general idea.

1. Before your trip and hitching the campervan to your vehicle, connect the electricity and run your fridge at least 2 hours before packing the cold food into it. This will ensure your fridge has chilled down sufficiently to prevent food spoiling. It could also take a some time to prepare other items before you depart so its good practice.
2. If using a 3 way fridge (runs on either GAS, 12volt or 240volt electricity) when your van is plugged into the 240 volt mains power, that it is set to the “AC” position (this is the 240v function)
3. If you dont have mains electricity and intend using gas to run the 3 way fridge, then switch it to run on gas. Using the gas guage on the fridge, check the fridge is running before leaving because the gas burner will sometimes stop just after initial starting and will need to be restarted.
4. Allow your fridge to chill down. This generally takes between 1 – 2 hours depending on your make and model.
5. Once chilled to about 2-3 degrees C, start packing the food into the fridge. It’s important to allow the fridge to then regain its temperature before you depart, so leave it closed and running on power or gas for another 30 minutes or so before departing. It will usually take you this long to hitch the campervan or make other preparations before departure anyway.
6. Lock the fridge door in place so that it wont accidently open during travel.
7. Now, before you lock up your camper ready for the trip, be sure to set the fridge to “DC” mode (12 Volt) so it runs on your vehicle’s power while travelling. It’s easy to close the campervan and forget to switch the fridge over to “DC” power before you leave, so remember to close the camper only after you have set the fridge to run on “DC”.
8. Next you will need to hitch the camper if you haven’t done so already and plug in the electrical plug from the camper to the vehicle. You should be ready to depart so start your vehicle’s engine to avoid the fridge sucking the power from your car battery before you leave.
9. Check your brake and indicator lights are working on the camper as this will evidence that power is running to the camper’s fridge also.
10. Assuming you’ve completed all the other tasks needed for your trip, you’re ready to set off.
11. While driving your fridge will be running on 12 volt DC power from your vehicle. This is important to remember especially since you will probably make a few stops where your vehicle’s engine will be stopped. If the engine is stopped the fridge in your camper will continue to suck power from your car’s battery, and it wont take long to drain it preventing you from starting the car.
12. Here’s what you do when you take a short break (5mins – 30mins) and stop your vehicle’s engine. Simply disconnect the camper’s electrical plug from your vehicle.  This will mean your fridge will be without power, but if left closed, it should safely maintain its low temperature without any food spoilage for upto 30 minutes.
13. Very importantly, REMEMBER TO PLUG IN THE ELECTRICAL SOCKET from the camper to the vehicle before you set off again. leave yourself a note just in case. I can tell you, its very easy to forget.

There you have it! A simple procedure for preparing your camper fridge and keeping food cold during a trip. Your camper set up may be different in several ways, but this should provide a general guide for people to overcome a common dilema that is experienced by many camper owners.  Want to add anything here?

Here’s a brief run down on how you can achieve this and eliminate stress at the same time.

If you’ve read the other articles on this great site, you will by now know that our research shows most people only get to use their camper 4 times in a year. (Stats taken from people who use this site only) I would say this is a good generalisation and reason enough to address one of the biggest time saving tasks you can perform. You see, if don’t use your camper regularly how do you know if everything still works, like I recently found out:

• Ants or bugs could have taken over and made nests in your cupboards
• Rubber seal in your manual water pump/tap might be perished
• Bedding could be mouldy
• The fridge doesn’t get down to a suitable temperature
• Your gas bottle may be slowly leaking and become empty

And on goes the list!

I’m not trying to be pessimistic, but if your camper has been sitting around in storage for 3-4 months or more, you shouldn’t take for granted that everything will be OK or working as you expect.  Imagine arriving at your destination to find the onboard pump that draws water from storage to the sink was buggered! You know the replacement rubber diaphram from one of these basic hand pumps is about $26.00. Amazing, since one would expect such a simple item should be closer to $5.00.

My point is this; you owe it to yourself and your family to do a “dry run” in the days or week prior to your leaving for holidays.  A “Dry Run” is the practice of setting up the main part of your camper at home and checking to see if all onboard sytems are working and in good order as well as testing out things that you might be using when on your trip. If you were using the camper on a daily basis, you’d have a regular maintenance program, so why not at least perform some ‘preventative maintenance’ before your leave.  By the way, here’s a similar article you might not have seen.

In fact this is the best time to carry out maintenance on the camper and if you find a problem, most likely you will have time to fix it without delaying your trip. The other part of the deal is you get the camper set up, tested out and packed up ready to leave. On the day of departure, all you have to do is put the food and drinks in the fridge, hitch her up to the vehicle and drive off.  Best of all, there’s no stress and last minute issues that can get your trip off to a bumpy start, as long as everyone has performed their roles in getting ready. Click here for a checklist you can use as a preventative maintenance check when doing your ‘dry run’ a few days before you leave.

I trust this helps get you organised for your next adventure and adds a level of preparedness that gives you and your family confidence that there is less chance of a problem arising that might otherwise spoil a good holiday. As Steve likes to say, “happy trails”.

Are you getting your money’s worth buying an older model camper, or should you ‘bite the bullet’ and get a new one?

(the writing on the side of this camper reads: “We got our money’s worth”)

Some of the issues you need to consider with older campers are these:
1. 50% or more of the camper is canvas and age will cause deterioration, especially when stored outside. Additionally, the later models have improved quality in most areas including fabrics resistant to UV rays and extreme outdoor exposure in our climate.
2. Jayco, Goldstream and other quality Australian made campers have to be made robust enough to last the years of punishment, weight is also critical and something Im sure they aim to keep to a minimum. They also use the faults and failings of the older models to make improvements to the new models. New materials and new equipment, including improved strengthening is likely to add a small amout of weight, but not so much that it should deter you from buying a later model.
3. As a general rule, older model campers will fall into 3 broad categories of use: 1. Well used 2. Moderately used , and 3. Rarely used. When inspecting you can usually determine their condition visually, then by asking the seller how much use they have put it to, they will give you a cross referrence to visual condition. This is a basic step towards the pending negotiations, but remember even a “Rarely Used” camper that is more than say 6 years old will have things that need fixing. For example, common things to watch for are eyelets, pumps, electical items, awning poles, tears in the canvas. There is also the cables that hold the roof up; they may be rusted and on their last legs. (has it been stored near the ocean?) People I met at a campsite recently told the story of their roof colapsing on them because the cables broke. The Jayco was a 2002 model and had roof racks – a sure indication the cables and pulleys have been stressed, the camper was owned since new, but they had a preference for beachfront locations, as we often do!
4. When you add it all up, the extra cost you need to factor in could make the camper overpriced in the market.

5. Resale value of an older camper will usually decrease faster after the first or second year of ownership. This means that if you buy say a rarely used 2000 model camper for a price consistent with reasonable market value, its unlikely to change much over the course of a year, but after another year of age it no longer is a 10 year old camper it’s an 11 year old camper. Something to be mindful of.

Should you consider a late model camper, you will immediately overcome many of these issues mentioned above. I’m not suggesting buying a new camper, however if you use the Checklist and read the information in this article, you will increase your chances of getting the best deal possible and avoid losing money longer term. I recommend a lot of looking and even visit a Jayco sales yard (don’t get caught by the hard sell) and view the features of the new campers.

Not much has changed since 2007 & 2008 and stats show people use their campers just 4 times a year. This is why there are so many opportunities to get a used late model camper in good condition. Much of the information you need can be found here on the website, if you find some great information we don’t have, please post about it here.

Preparing an advertisement on eBay is a multi step process, whereas writing an ad deals only with the copy you insert that compliments the photos and other components of the advertisement.

Firstly, it’s important to prepare a list of all the features of the camper you are selling because buyers need to understand what is on offer. If this list is sufficiently detailed it will allow the buyer to quickly determine what makes your camper different or worth more thann the others.  If you are including the two gas bottles for example, then why not tell the reader.  When preparing the list, start with the big items first, like annexe, air conditioning and solar power system.  You might not have thought about the number of features before so now is the time to sit down with a pen and go to it.  If you are struggling for items to list or you want to check you have sufficient items listed, go to eBay and view similar campers and compare your list with others for sale.  Note also that your list should be in point form so it is easy to read.

The second challenge is to write your ad copy so it sounds genuine. To achieve this, you need to be objective towards the item you are selling. If it is damaged then state what damage there is. If you have added extra items or modifications, then it would be wise to give details about these things.  I suggest being positive in your appraisal rather than negative because talking the buyer out of purchasing is the last thing you want to happen.  Have your spouse or a friend check your written copy and see if it has all the elements needed for a winning ad.

1. List of features
2. Sounds genuine
3. Positive appeal
4. Reason for selling
5. Willingness to assist with information and inspections
6. Age, model and condition of camper
7. Price indicator

We’ve covered the first three listed points, now you need to let the reader know why you are selling. If it doesn’t sound genuine, then leave it out, but make sure you have an idea of what you are going to say when speaking with people at an inspection. Allow your reader to make contact with you to ask any questions or arrange an inspection. Its ok to include your phone number is you wish.  The inspection process is another topic altogether, but taking the time to write a detailed advertisement will prepare your brain for the questions ahead and get you in a better frame of mind for dealing with the sale.

The title of the ad should include the make, model and year of the camper. For example: “Jayco Swan 2004 camper”.  This means eBay will categorise your advertisement so that people can find it easily in a search.  It is also important for the buyer to make comparisons with other year models of the same make. In other words, Jayco buyers for instance, will be looking for price related differences in the year models listed for sale in an attempt to identify a bargain. If your price is indicated to be lower than the next guy, then you will get the bulk of the inquiry (as long as the listed features appeal).

In relation to price, there is a particular procedure I advocate when selling on eBay and so I use the term “price indicator”. The price indicator needs to be realistic for the offer. You could be selling a 2001 model caravan that has twice the number of features as another similar van in a 2003 model.  Often the condition determines whether you get a premium sale price, so if your van is only slightly older but is “hardly used” there is the chance your caravan will sell for a price close to the 2003 model. I’ve seen some things happen that dont make sense when it comes to price. For example, if you sell at the right time of year, you could expect to sell for 5-10-% more than other times when the demand is lower.

I hope this helps your marketing efforts should you decide to sell your camper. Most importantly, have fun and learn from the process since it will probably help in other areas. You might like to download the 23 page report “How to sell your camper fast on eBay” since it contains the entire process needed for selling successfully online.

Most camp sites have bare ground or grass on which you place your annexe, tent or camp kitchen, and while there are many different flooring types you can use, a sheeting of some sort is the accepted rule.

An ideal camp floor is the shadecloth sheeting. We recommend a knitted polyethalene fabric in preference to a woven fabric because it doesn’t need to be stitched along the sides to prevent it breaking down or falling apart. In most cases the shadecloth is far superior to a poly tarp or canvas placed over the ground.

What ever you decide to use for the floor the Stayfast Floor Clips come in a pack of 10 and provide strong anchoring for your floor sheeting. These sturdy self locking clips can also be used to secure sheeting material in a vertical position such as a screen or wind break and the elastic tensioners will eliminate much of the shock forces that cause sheeting material to tear under normal conditions.  They can even be used to add extra support to fixing with eyelets.

Get yourself a pack of 10 Stayfast Floor Clips complete with sheet tensioners and discover how easy and versatile they are around the campsite. Postage and packaging is included in the price. Click Here to purchase.

Here are a few tips make your drinking water safer and taste nice too!

Often with new caravans or campers the water tank can have residues from the manufacturing process or simply give off a plastic taste from the water stored in it. There are several things you can do if your drinking water from the on-board storage tastes nasty. Consider these tips:

1. Garden hoses are not the best to use to fill your caravan’s water tank, especially if its been laying in the sun as the chemicals in the nylon or plastic will leach into the water. Its unlikely to cause any harm, but it can make your drinking water taste like…well….drinking from a garden hose!
2. Use a coloured hose specially for drinking water – they can be found at Bunnings and are usually light blue.
3. After each trip empty the tank and leave the bung screw off along with the filler cap open so that the air is allowed to flow into the tank and dry it out between trips. If you park your caravan outside or it doesn’t get used often, place some insect mesh over the holes to prevent spiders or cockroaches making a home out of your water tank.
   
4. After the tank has dried out (allowing about a week or so, depending on air temps) replace the filler cap and tank bung.
   

To clean a contaminated water tank try these ideas:

1. Fill the tank with water and leave it for a week before draining it completely. Let the tank air out, then fill it again repeating the process once more and flush it thoroughly;
2. Buy a product called “Tank Clean” from your nearest caravan shop and follow the instructions (Fill & add cleaner, let sit for 12 hours then flush with clean water);
3. Leave the caps off the tank and let it dry out.

The thing that works well is to always make sure you put clean water into the tank in the first place. It also helps to install a water filter in the inlet line if you are drinking water from suspect locations or areas where there might be contamination in the water. You can also use a portable filter like a Britta filter jug to pre treat drinking water.

I recently replaced a short manual water pump in the Jayco since the seal split in the existing one.  The water tasted like rubber and straight away I realised the new rubber diaphram in the pump was the problem. Pumping warm water through the unit will speed the cleaning process up, but to clear the taste it was just a matter of time.  Until the water was OK to taste, I’d use the bad water for washing up. After a couple of days it came good.

Just a quick note on this topic: Never use chemicals or treatments that are unsafe for drinking water, always read the instructions, if in doubt…flush it out, every couple of years give your tank a complete flush clean.