Terrainspotter's Travelogues

Among the Theravada Budhists - Karla Caves

2010-09-06T22:04:00.015+05:30

Karla caves are one of the best example of rock cut caves in India.Build during the 2nd century B.C, the caves are a sight to behold with it's intricate craftsmanship and Buddhist style grandeur.Located at Karli near Lonavala, Maharashtra(11 Km's from Lonavla off the NH4 highway), the caves were in terms of ancient relevance on a major ancient trade route, running eastward from the Arabian Sea into the Deccan.Karla caves lie on top of a hill and in case you are there during the monsoons, the scenic beauty is wonderful.

Greenery all around, small houses with hills at the back and a flowing waterfall in sight...one has to first drive up the steep road leading to the base from where the climb begins.Its again a fairly easy 1/2 km trek up the rugged stairs which lands you in front of the caves.

The caves really blow you away as it must have been some work to cut out designer balconies from a giant hill. Built in the time of the Theravada Buddhists(The oldest surviving Indian Buddhist schools), these caves do not actually show the image of Buddha but instead intricate carved drawing of humans and animals.

Some tremendous craftsmanship that has lasted many thousand years. Our current day real estate buggers need to learn something from them.

The main cave has a magnificent Chaitya(Buddhist Shrine) with huge pillars and intricately carved relief's dating back to the 1st century B.C.

By common belief people try to throw a coin accurately inside the elevated funnel structure(see above photo) in one try(That's my friend trying his luck!)

Outside the Karla caves also coexists the Ekaveera Temple(A temple devoted to Goddess Kali). This temple is revered by the Koli tribes of Lonavla and other nearby regions.The tribal Goddess Aai Ekvira(another avataar of Kali Goddess) is the main deity here. The Koli tribes throng to this temple during special occasions like navarathri and chaitra(major hindu festivals).Koli tribes offer animal sacrifices in this temple and they offer the sacrifice of goat or chickens and they believe that the tribal Goddess has majestic powers. This ritual still goes on today and even a normal person can ask for the sacrifice a Goat/Chicken and once the Bali(sacrifice) is done, the meat is cooked and given to the devotee who ordered the sacrifice!

Keep reading this space as the wanderlust will continue!

In the land of the Peshwas - Pune City!

2010-09-05T20:39:00.020+05:30

Pune has kind of always played second fiddle to Mumbai and I was always keen to find out more about this seventh largest Indian metropolis. So when my close friend Kishor told me that we could stay at his flat in Pune for a day and roam about...I did not let go of the opportunity. Pune city is known to have existed as a town since 937 AD. Shivaji Maharaj, the founder of the Maratha Empire, lived in Pune as a young boy, and the city oversaw significant growth and development during his reign. Around 1730, Pune city became an important political centre as the seat of the Peshwas - the prime ministers to the Chhatrapati i.e 'The Ruler'. The whole of Pune city is abound with the signs of the 'Glorious Age' gone by of the Peshwas.Moropant Trimbak Pingle was the first Peshwa (Prime Minister) in the court of Shivaji in 1647, and post that the Peshwas became stronger and stronger in stature and later became the hereditary rulers of the Maratha Empire from 1749 to 1818.

(I loved this painting above at a shop which shows the Chatrapati interacting with his ministers .What a grand era it must have been!)

The thing with Pune is that like all great cities, you have to digest the good with the bad. The road sense of Pune traffic goers really puts a bad taste in your mouth. Please be very alert when you drive in this city...VERY! The number of two wheelers are so immense that it reminds you of the 'Soldier Ants' on Discovery channel who go about chopping the leaves with their tongs and destroying everything in their way. There are men on bikes with men, men sitting behind women, women driving alone, old uncles driving their scooty - all of them appearing from one invisible side lane or other giving you the brakebumps. Kishor told me that the high number of two wheelers is due to the fact that there is no local train system in Pune...but that has nothing to do with developing bad traffic sense. The autowallahs are no good either...and I will explain that with a funny incident. Another friend of mine joined us from Mumbai in the night and his travel expenses were like this : Mumbai to Pune Shivaji Park(140 Km's) - 150 INR and Shivaji Park to Patwardhan Baug(probably 10 Km's - Where Kishor stays) in an auto : 100 INR. Ridiculous...Isn't it?

The first thing you gotta do in Pune in case you have a slight empty stomach is try out the awesome Vegeterian Thalis(Authentic Maharashtrian Style) around the city. Since I was with a local guy, I was taken to the one of the best - Krishna Dining at Law College Road.

An authentic Maharashtrian Thali will have a salad called 'Koshimbir'(Small pieces of Cucumber mixed with cold curd - the white salad in the picture) and the trademark 'Batata Bhaji'( Boiled and dry fried potatoes spices with curry leaves and other Indian masalas). What I really loved was the Matarchi Usal( A mildly spicy Green Pea centric gravy - the bowl on the right side of the roti/bread). The food supply for the thali is unlimited and the final serving in main course is Rice with Yellow Dal(Pulses) with a cheerful sprinkling of ghee. I will give this restaurant a five star rating not only for the taste but also cleanliness and manners. The staff is polite yet forthcoming. One full veg thali costs 170 INR but believe me...It's worth it!

After such a meal which fills you up till your throat, what do you do! Well, in Pune you can always land up for a panoramic view from Parvati hill that also mounts a 'Bhavani Temple'(In hindu mythology 'Bhavani' is the ferocious aspect of goddess Parvati).

It's not a trek to the hill...in fact it's an easy climb...but definitely useful to digest your food and savour the 360 degree view of Pune city.

When evening falls , the best place to meander is the impressive Deccan area. It is upmarket, upbeat and not to forget...very crowded with both people(a lot of students as Pune is one of the leading educational lanmarks of India with over hundred Institutes) and branded shops. One must try the Chole Bhature(A traditional Indian veg dish) at Shiv Sagar and the Vada Pao at Sambhaji park opposite to it.

The weather of Pune is an added attraction...maybe because of the fact that its 500 Mts higher than the sea level.The evenings are nice and cool and it's a great change from Mumbai's constant humidity. You will see some outrageous hoardings behind the auto rickshaws and I saw two : 'Meri chalti hain toh teri kyun jalti hain'(I really cant translate this one...:-(...so sorry my non Indian readers) and 'Mujhe nahi pata aapko jaana kahan hain toh kripya bata do pehle se'. Very unique...I must say!

There are a few other must do things when in Pune and they are(Although I did not go there...but this post is about everything that's uniquely Pune...so what the heck!) :

A. A visit to the bakeries of Pune ( German Bakery at Koregaon park or Kayani Bakery at M G Road)

B. Shanivarwada - the palacial residential forts of the Peshwas

C. Purandhar Fort - located 40 Km's from Pune on the Narayanpur Seswad road(on the way from Pune to Satara)

Hope you all liked this post. Will cover places at a much faster frequency from now on!

Lake Placid

2010-07-18T21:22:00.011+05:30

Lonavla is truly the home away from home for all Mumbaikars.It's 40 Minutes from Panvel, easy to reach...and does have a great cloudy & cool weather from mid June to September.There's just one small problem - "The Crowd". When a destination becomes generic for a whole city, there is bound to be trouble...and trouble comes in the shape of "Availability of Hotels", "Quality of Food" and "Unrealistic Rate Demands"(Both in terms of stay and food).

That is why Pawna Lake is the perfect getaway, and go there while its still desolate(I just read in the papers that Bollywood/Business sector is buying Bungalows by the dozen there). Pawna Lake is an artificial lake formed by the a Dam built across the Pawna River nearby Lonavala. About 11 Km's from Lonavla, the road leading to the lake is very beautiful. You drive through quiet villages that silently greet you from their slumber, green ghats that lay tall on both your sides and a weather that is to kill for(Be ready to get wet,as theres a slight drizzle always during the period mentioned by me above)

Don't expect to find places to stay at Pawna Lake as there are no Hotels.I hope it remains that way and there are only some select high priced resorts available in the future to avoid the "Aam Janata". In case you dont know what I mean, go on a Saturday evening to Bhushi Dam or Lions Point.Tourist swarm like mosquitoes and a cup of cutting chai costs 10 INR!!!Need I say more?

Will keep searching for offbeat places within the vicinity of Mumbai NCR....Keep Reading!

Singapore : The Lion City!

2010-06-11T21:35:00.025+05:30

For a person living in the cacophony of a bustling Indian metro like Mumbai, the first glimpse of Singapore City reminds him/her of a "Real Estate Prototype Model". Tall high rises , clean wide roads and an impeccable MRT(Mass Rapid Transit) are part of the Singapore's Infrastructure that blows you away. Not surprising for the initiated though, as this country of 5 Million people is the world's fourth leading financial centre(Source : Wikipedia) and even tops Tokyo as its other Asian counterpart in terms of "Quality Of Life Index"(Source : Economist Intelligence Unit).

The first thing that one needs to know is the MRT service that connects straight from the Changi International Airport(Just after Immigration Check towards the left) and is the vein through which the city travels.There are four lines : Circle Line,Downtown line, Thomson Line and Eastern Region line. There are Interchange Stations(see below the circled stations) where one changes from one line to other. The locals are very courteous and will politely guide you in case confused.For example, if I am going to Chinatown then I will get down and Interchange at two stations - Paya Lebar(to Circle Line) and Dobhy Ghaut(To North West Line.

One thing you gotta be really careful with in Singapore is how you spend your money, or rather where. It's a mightily expensive city(guess its the charge they take to keep the city so clean) and in case your purse strings are tight coz you gotta do all that shopping,be very careful.The top hotels are all 300 - 400 $ + and even the 2-3 stars are costly. Before embarking on the journey,visit international travel sites like Tripadvisor and Expedia and try to get a picture!http://www.expedia.co.in/Hotels?rfrr=-0&#sb=10&st=1&nm=0&ar=180027&am=x&sd=15/6/2010&ed=16/6/2010&ad=1&pg=0\

Geylang is where one will find the really cheap ones(2500 INR - 3500 INR, Basic Amenities only i.e Bed and Bathroom).Though Geylang is the notorious Red Light District, yet for a bachelor this can turn out to be cheap and an effective stay. Little India and Chinatown have Hotels ranging from 4000 - 6000 INR and are good options too. The added attraction in Little India is the Mustafa Shopping Arcade for Indians(open uptil 3 AM) which is a great place to shop for Electronic Items.

Food again is one of the big highlights of Singapore - especially if you are open to experimentation. Then again, theres a word of caution here too - eat where the crowd is, else you will be overcharged. One of the unique experiences to walk through the narrow lane at Boat Quay or sitting at one of the shacks to try out some seafood. Theres fierce competition so negotiate as much as you can and you might get a Pitcher free/Two pints free - totally depends.

The Beef Satay and the Spring Rolls with Beer is a must try Starter Course. In the Main Course, in case you wanna try Crab, check the per 100 gm rate first(normally 5-6 Sing $/100 gms) and then order(1 Kg needed for two foodies).

You can have the traditional Pork Meat rice along with the Chilly Crab.Overall a meal for two(with Beer) at the Boat Quay will cost you anything between 100 -120 Sing $.After you finish your meal,walk down by the numerous bars and surely you will be called by the Filipino girls sitting outside. There are plenty of them outside every bar and you can walk inside and have a beer with them and leave.I did not see any hanky panky(am not sure what goes on beyond serving beers) and rather sat and chatted away with this Bar dancer called Michelle from Philippines.It was nice sitting with a complete stranger and telling her about India,the roads, the people and the Himalayas.

Clarke Quay is the sophisticated version of Boat Quay and is probably the party place of the Singapore Corporate audience.On a Friday evening even at 0100 AM, this place is hustling and bustling. One of the craziest thing to do is to do a Reverse Bungee Jump near the riverside inside a pod.One cant explain the rush but I will try!They put you in a pod(secured) and hurl you upwards(about 200 Ft) at 200 Km/hr and then the pod swings merrily and comes hurtling down and again goes up.The ride costs 45 Sing $ but trust me - its worth it!Moreover at 200 Ft , you can see the whole of Singapore upside down - hows that for an experience! There are numerous pubs all around and the most unique one is Clinic - a dummy hospital that serves alcohol with nurses as waiters.

(Image Source : Travelerfolio.com)

Sentosa Island is something that one must visit in order to understand the architectural effort that must have gone it to make this man made haven.Be it the Universal Studios, Butterfly Park or the Luge rides, Sentosa is a whole day of Fun and Frolic(Perfect for families with young children).

My favourite at Sentosa was the Cafe Del Mar where I could dip my feet into pool and sip on my LIIT. The poolside bar overlooked the sea and with relaxing lounge music playing, one could not ask for more.

Overall, Singapore is a great experience. The food, Modern Malls(visit Takashimaya to see the world famous labels - even if you cant buy them!),the polite people, the amalgamation of cultures(Indians,Thais,Chinese etc) all make you want to go back again and again and again...and "Go back" I will!

Singapore : The Lion City - Prelogue

2010-06-06T23:14:00.008+05:30

It's common enough to hear tits and bits about Singapore all the time...isn't it? Some friend or relative goes and comes back with the Duty Free whiskey and stories about how strict is the law in Singapore and how developed it is. Well no doubt, they are right...but what about the little things? Yours truly was recently in Singapore for the first time for a Digital Conference and in true terrainspotter style , I did try to seep up everything that I could - the modernity , the night life and of course the food.

The Modernity : (In the photo - Fairmont Hotel @ Bras Basah Road)

The Night Life : (The Riverside Point @ Clarke Quay)

The Food(Beef Red Chilly Fry and Chilly Crab @ Boat Quay)

Well, in true advertising style,that's the teaser!Read this space for the detailed travelogue!

Time Stops in Calcutta - Docking at Dacres Lane!

2010-03-13T19:30:00.009+05:30

I will take the liberty in this post to call Kolkata as the Good Old Calcutta.I have mentioned it before in one of my earlier post that in Calcutta - sometimes time stops.It really does!There are nooks and corners in this city which suddenly makes you forget that you are living in this "Neo Modern - Heavy on Pocket - Mentally Stressing" era!

Take a walk down Dackers Lane and you will know what I mean.For the Calcutta Initiated, Dacres Lane is between Esplanade Row and Waterloo Street.Nevertheless,for the occasional Calcutta visitor like me,walk down straight from the famous K.C.Das and after about 100 meters you will see a lane to your right.If you are there about 1.00 PM onwards, you will instantly recognize Dacres Lane by the sight of a number of office going people sitting on benches and eating.I must confess that I went there on a Saturday and had my dad along to narrate me the history of this narrow lane.

Named Dacres Lane after Milner Dacres , then collector of Calcutta , this lane was for 200 years the eating grounds for Sailors from various countries.In the 19th century,especially after the British leaving , the tradition has been carried forward by the fiercely food loving Bengali's.The first picture given above are the Live Chinese Stalls(like Bangkok) , who make delicious Chinese Fare right in front of your eyes.My dad even swore that in his last 40 years, he hasn't heard anyone falling sick from their cooked delicacies.In front of these stalls is the famous Chittoda's Stall - known for its tongue tingling Ghoogni(A spicy chick-pea dish) , which is followed by the mind freshning tea given in the earthen cup - called as Bhadh(in Bengali)

After finishing your meal,please dont forget to taste the healthy and tasty Lassi prepared by the quiet Halwai (Sweetmeat Maker) , who sits beside Chittoda's.

Please go for this small one hour lunch visit to Dacres Lane, next time when you are in Calcutta.I assure you , that like me...you will also be surprised by the little money that goes out of your pocket(average gastronomic lunch : 80 -100 Rs , with Sweet Dish and Tea included) when you are here.

Zebopping in Goa - Part III

2010-02-11T20:59:00.015+05:30

Taken at Utorda Beach - Dec 2009 while sitting and sipping golden froth in one of the manyshacks that cater to the vast foriegners and sparse Indians in this region.
Sunset at Utorda Beach.It is a great feeling to move to a quiet corner, move into the water and seep into the golden calm of the evening low tide.
I wonder what the guy whos upside down is singing - probably "Stuck in the middle with you".By the way there are two people because one is a local guide(hes alright in the pic)

(Parasailing at Utorda Beach - 800 INR(Negotiated) per ride)

Zebopping in Goa - Part II

2010-01-30T23:42:00.010+05:30

Apologies to all my readers for being away so long.I think what I developed was a "Blogger's Block".Nevertheless I am back...back with a bang.A bang that guarantees one quality post per week.Did I ever tell you that in Goa there is a place in Panaji called Fountainhas...that takes you to the laid back old days...that reminds you of the "Good ol susegad life"?

Fountainhas,which means small fountains is located at the heart of Panaji(Reach the Panaji Church and then ask someone) and has mostly the catholic community(of Portuguese Descent).The place has been listed in the Lonely Planet guide and has an amazing feel about it.

A visit to Fountainhas also means a visit to Mrs Linda D'souza's gastronomic restaurant called "Viva Panjim".The food is authentic(Please please try the Pork Sorpotel,Prawn Curry rice and the chicken cafreal), the service quite good(Considering the fact that you are in Susegad land) and the benches laid out in the narrow alley add to the rustic charm.

Goa has many thousand restaurants...but some are worth going.Here's a small list that wont let you down:

* Souza Lobo - Calangute - Prawns,Prawns,Prawns

* Fiorentinos -on way from Porvorim to Calangute - Chicken Cafreal

* Casa Moderna - Panjim(Near National Theatre) - Rawas Fish Fry

* La Pastelaria - 18th June Road - Pastries Galore

* Kamat Hotel - Panaji(Near Panaji Church) - Great Veg Thali

I guess I could be pretty pissed off about my 0900 AM to 0900 PM job schedule,grumpy about no increments in 2009,or about the fact that India again lost a cricket match...or whatever!

"But it's hard to stay mad when there's so much beauty in the world. Sometimes I feel like I'm seeing it all at once, and it's too much. My heart fills up like a balloon that's about to burst. And then I remember to relax, and stop trying to hold on to it. And then it flows through me like rain. And I can't feel anything but gratitude for every single moment of my stupid little life"

(Excerpt from Americal Beauty - Narrated by Kevin Spacey)

Aint that apt?

Zebopping In Goa - Part I

2010-01-01T22:21:00.020+05:30

If you are a long term reader of my blog,then you will know by now my fascination with Goa.It is not only because I have spend my adolescent years there,but also because of the fact that Goa is truly an unique place.A place that has beauty,culture,diversity,tranquility and Unhurriedness - all in equal measure.I stayed this time at South Goa and its easy enough to notice the small differences between South and North Goa.South Goa is the true un-commercialized Goa...the Goa with those "Quiet Beaches"...the Goa with those "Empty village roads"...the Goa with those great "Local cuisine stopovers".On the other hand,North Goa looks nowadays(Especially Baga and Calangute) like Juhu Beach(with a few more foreigners actually).I stayed at Royal Orchid based at Utorda Beach,Salcete and the experience was awesome.

I stayed at this 4 Star hotel chain called the Royal Orchid(Owned by Galaxy Group).This hotel has all the luxurious amenities required to be called a star hotel,a great staff and most importantly...Utorda Beach just a stones throw away(see above).Most importantly,the hotel does offer some great deals on its rooms - more so if you are a REPEAT visitor.The rooms are fabulous,the modular bathrooms fascinating and the the room service is prompt.What more does one want?

Utorda beach is a very unique beach.At one glimpse,I does feel like you have come to a Russian Beach.Surprised?Well,I think many years back an influential Russian Man must have visited Utorda and when he went back...he just blurted the place out to everyone he knew.So now - every kind of Russian visits Utorda Beach i.e "The Couple" , "The Old and married" , "The Familyman" and the "Adventurer".So much is the Russian influence,that even "Food Menu Boards" at shacks are written in Russian.I took my best sunset photo yet at this beach and the feeling was great.

The evening time at the beach actually belongs to the shacks -and above all "Zebop by the sea" at Utorda.Every sea-food item at Zebop is Dige-licious .One must try the "Mussels Rava Fry" and "Prawns Curry Rice" to understand what I am saying.In case you want to try something more fancy in Seafood - try the Lobster Butter Garlic(1200 INR for a piece : serves 3 people) with steamed rice.

Theres lot more to write...lot more unique places...In time,I will!

The Lonely Konkan Coast - Epilogue!

2009-12-07T08:43:00.013+05:30

Looked deep into the April face,

a change has clearly taken place...

We were looking for the summer!

The eyes take on a certain gaze,

and leave behind the springtime days...

We were looking for the summer!

The Lonely Konkan Coast - Velneshwar!

2009-12-01T08:31:00.011+05:30

Velneshwar Beach is about 26 Kms from Guhagar.The journey is a green one,as there's thick vegetation all around as one twists and turns on the western ghats.The first view of Velneshwar Beach is pure magic as one sees it from a distance while coming down the ghats.

At the entry of the beach,lies the Velneshwar Temple.Built to honor the great lord Shiva,this temple is as old as 1700 years(One part only - the rest was build in 60's - 70's).I spend a lot of time there,mostly because the temple had no touts.I must applaud the Marathi Manoos for this, as in all the temples in Maharashtra I have been to,there have been zero touts,and each one has been sparkling clean.

The water at Velneshwar is definitely the cleanest of all beaches I have been to(Alibaug,Kashid,Kihim,Guhagar etc) on the Konkan coast.Add this to the fact that there are a handful of people about,one can really have a great swim in the Arabian Sea.

There is always so much not to do :-)...but just laze around when you are at places like these.Sit along the benches and feel the ocean breeze.Wait for the sun to dip in and then start the evening siesta...create a bonfire...raise a toast...to the almighty...for giving us all this beauty.

The Lonely Konkan Coast - Prelogue!

2009-11-30T08:32:00.015+05:30

This boat wreck was seen at Guhagar Beach,a desolate stretch of white sands sandwiched between the western ghats.

Guhagar lies about 280 Kms from Mumbai on route to Goa.This beach really offers all sanctity one looks in a serene and secluded beach. The invasions of modern concrete buildings are scanty in this beach. The beach offers a perfect place for sunbath, relaxation and meditation, all far far away from the madding crowds.

The town of Guhagar bustles with quiet energy,people going about their jobs without much worry.Although the town seems held back in town due to the serenity,there are stores and shops with most of the latest products.

One unique feature of the place are the countless "Supari Trees" (Betel Nut).Going by the way they spread these Betel Nuts to dry of every rooftop,these villagers must be taking their "Betel Nut Harvesting" seriously.

Also while you are there,please eat the "Pomphret Fry Thali" or the "Mutton Kolhapuri"(Very Spicy...but worth it) at Hotel Annapurna.The hotel is clean,service is prompt and sharp and the owner looks genuinely happy.

To sum it up,Guhagar is a great destination to chill off during a weekend without any stress given to you bosses,as you can be back before Monday.It's a place that also has other adjoining locales worth seeing.Will talk about them in my next post.

Bulls Eye @ Pindari!

2009-11-15T01:03:00.014+05:30

After Phurkhiya literally takes your breath away,thankfully the trek to Pindari is not very steep,but more or less up and down.Some guys may have slight trouble in breathing(Smokers beware) because of the height.One climbs from Phurkhiya (12000 Ft) top Pindari(14000 Ft).The route is just magical and makes you forget the pain,troubles,anticipations of the last six days.I had to wrap my T- Shirt on my head as my ears were paining due to cold air.

Vegetation starts to slowly disappear as you go higher and higher.More you start seeing barren rocks,with flakes of snow on them.A little away beckons the Pindari Glacier...standing Majestic in all its glory.I must tell you all here that in the hills,whatever looks near can be miles away.I remember that Pindari was still 3 Kms away when I took the photo above.Moreover,don't ask you guides how far...ever...coz they will only sat - "Thoda Door" ...i.e...just a little far away.They always say this in order to motivate people to trek happily and not grumpy faced...and gloomy...about the tough prospects ahead.

The sight of the "Valley Of Dreams" will be imprinted in my mind forever.The ecstasy and joy of reaching your destination after 6 days of toiling and hiking through the terrains...is indescribable.Maybe the picture above can only sum up my feelings.

The small hutment that you can see in the picture is Pindari Baba's camp.Swami Dharmananda,is truly a unique character.He stays in Pindari Glacier almost 8 months and moves back to Khati during the peak snowfall.

Guarded by his two trusted pahari dogs,Swami Dharmananda helps you to free filling of Tea,Biscuits(Unlimited) and even lunch.An extremely friendly guy,he does sometime border of discussions that sometimes sound TRULY COSMIC:-).For example he told us that he can do the six day trek that we did within 1 day and that too till Almora(The main town).Well,I don't blame him,as he stays all alone there,and besides the occasional hiccup...Pindari Baba is a pretty great guy and an attraction in himself.

I remember after the Tea and Biscuits how we sat and seeped in the surroundings.The surrounding peaks,the humming and groaning air...they all seemed magical.

The ending shot has to be the two musketeers and a word of loving praise from my side for Mr Badru.I can bestow a true compliment on him by saying that he till date was my most compatible travel companion - No Complaints...No Issues...all cool.

God bless the terrains of India...God bless terrainspotter...I shall be back for more!

Phurkhiya - At the edge of the mighty Himalayas!

2009-11-02T08:51:00.010+05:30

It is said that Pictures speak a thousand words.This is my 100th post on www.terrainspotter.com and I won't write anything about Phurkhiya.About 5 Kms uphill from Dwali(And really uphill)...Phurkhiya is the last junction with houses before Pindari Glacier,Kafni Glacier and Sunderdungha Glacier.

From Purkhiya,the peaks can be seen with amazing clarity,and the Pindari Glacier just seems a stones throw away.There is a KMVN(Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) rest house here too,but bookings have to be done way way in advance.Thus it is advisable to bring your own tent.Eat properly before starting for Pindari the next day,as there are no dhabas or even tea stalls between Phurkhiya and Pindari.

Cheers to my 100th post.It took one and a half years to reach here:-).

Dwali - The village by the river!

2009-10-19T19:48:00.012+05:30

Dwali is about 11 Kms from Khati Village.The entire journey is done besides the Pindar River,through narrow manmade lanes cut across the hills.In fact,i strongly believe that a Khati - Dwali trek makes you understand the true beauty of the great Himalayan valley.

There are scores and scores of waterfalls on the way,water coming out of low lying holes,water falling from 100 ft,water flowing besides you as you walk and water flowing below you as you walk.The entire trek to Dwali is the easiest,full of visual delights...with the cool river breeze hitting you all the time!

There are numerous rickety wooden bridges that pass on the way,which creak precariously and freak you out as you are on them.I also want to say a thank you through this site to my Travel Mate - Mr Badru for his Never-Say-Die spirit.A quiet person in nature,Mr Badru was far fitter than me(A true desi ghee khaya hua Punjabi Mumda) who did the entire Pindari Trek terrain without a single complaint.

Evenings are a great time in the hills,when you can see the dim red light of the sun set across the nearby hills.You see the clouds pass by and rub your shoulders.It's a great time to sum up your life till now and think practically about the future.In the above photo,Mr Badru seems to be doing just that.

Dwali indulges you in the simple pleasures.As you can see from the video,even simple Dal,Chawal and a double omelette can taste like heaven...WHEN YOU ARE IN HEAVEN!

Myriad Dreams at Khati!

2009-10-19T13:54:00.012+05:30

From Dhakuri top,it's a downhill trek of 8 Km's to the beautiful town of Khati.Khati lies at a height of about 7600 Ft,surrounded by all sides by the mighty himalayas.

Khati looks like a town...that's long lost in time.10 A.M in the morning and you will see people playing cards,snakes and ladders,Carrom and have the least care in the world about earnings and moolah.The best thing to do in Khati is to sit at the wooden benches besides the stalls and sip your tea as the clouds pass you by.

If you are bored with the tea and the sitting a wee bit,then take a 2 Km downward trek to the Pindar river,which especially during rains...looks scary to say the least...with rapids well above level 4.(ferocity of Rapids are are identified by levels : 1-5).

In the evenings,sit on the cottage balcony and take a look at the silence around you...the occasional cattle's grazing by...the stray mountain dog looking for pieces of food on the wet grass.

One of the scariest natural things that you see around Khati are the Landslides.Imagine,you are standing on the hilly landscapes and suddenly the ground beneath you collapses.Gives me the shivers even thinking about it.The villagers say that landslides can happen anytime and there are no signs...but any ground that's loosely hangs from protruding rocks is considered dangerous.

We stayed two whole days in Khati,as we were stuck because of perennial rains.It was a great soul searching time for me in this quiet easygoing town.Khati is the last town going ahead which has solar powered STD booths.So traveller's to Pindari,Kafni,Sunderdungha or the basecamp...do make your calls here because then you get completely cut off from the world.

Do visit by for my next travelogue on the village by the Pindar rapids - Dwali

Song,Loharkhet and Dhakuri - The Lost Villages!

2009-10-16T16:57:00.018+05:30

The foundations of the Pindari Glacier trek that I undertook with Mr Badru,started from a place called Song.Song is a small and beautiful village about 199 Km's from Kathgodam(The place till where Indian Railways takes you).Kathgodam is a low lying workmanlike town and the real beauty starts once the jeep starts winding up from Bhowali(30 Km's).

From then on,you are taken on a picturesque yet topsy-tipsy-curvy ride besides river after river,stream after stream,crossing Almora(109 Km's) and Bageshwar(164 Km's) until you hit what looks like a dead end(See Photo)

The bridge adjoining Song to Loharkhet frequently collapses due to rains and landslides,and thus there's a separate solitary jeep which takes travellers 3 Km's up to Loharkhet.The ride is scary as hell as there IS no road...just a pile of rocks with a sheer drop on one side.The pahadi's(Mountain men) call this driving feature as "Mausam banake chalna"(Driving in one weather mode!).Beats me how they find humour in such situations:-).

Loharkhet gives a great view of what's to come - wave upon wave of green hills that we have to cross!Loharkhet has a forest rest house,and we halted there at night.The stay was more than comfortable(In case you are the kind of person who looks for a clean bed to be satisfied at the end of the day).Since Loharkhet is a halting place before the start of the trek,one sleeps early and gets up early,because the hardest part of the trek lies ahead - THE UPHILL TREK TO DHAKURI.

Loharkhet to Dhakuri is a continous 11Km upward trek.It's tiring,hard,neverending,but the cool air hitting your sweat buds keeps you pleasant....and Mr Badru in this photo epitomizes my thoughts.

The vegetation starts getting greener and greener as one treks up,with the temperature dropping accordingly.There are tea/maggi stalls every 4/5 km's so one can take a well deserved break.

Dhakuri top is my Switzerland of India:-).I was mesmerized when I reached here after such a long and winding road.All perspirations,fatigue and frustations vanished when I saw the above picture in real.

On a clear,non cloudy day,the great himalayan peaks like "Baijuri","Nanda Khat" "Changus" and Pindari Glacier" are all clearly visible from Dhakuri.In fact our guide told us that many people return back from Dhakuri itself,as they feel that they have seen what they wanted i.e the mighty peaks!

Obviously I amd Mr Badru did not do that and kept on going.My next post will talk about the further lost villages of Khati,Dwali and Purkhiya.Till then...keep reading this space.

The Hills are alive... - Pindari Glacier Trek (Prelogue)

2009-10-14T09:16:00.008+05:30

Near the Pindari Glacier,the wind sings its own tune and the hills seem to orchestrate the entire melody.The rocks lie cold and bored with wrinkles formed due to years of wear and tear.

The Icy peaks stand proud and upright,defiant of storms and thunders and whatever beckons.They await the next brave men who will attempt to cross their icy path.

And then as one goes far,the valley and the peaks look even more intimidating from a distance,as if daring a novice like me not to come any closer.

It was not easy reaching all the way up there,as shown in the photos.It took 3 days of trekking and a bit of lady luck,combined and spiced with danger and the occasional adrenalin rush.Read this space for more on that.

Learning to fly!

2009-10-02T09:30:00.005+05:30

Into the distance, a ribbon of black,

Stretched to the point of no turning back.

A flight of fancy on a cloudswept field,

Standing alone my senses reeled.

A fatal attraction holding me fast,

how Can I escape this irresistible grasp?

Cant keep my eyes from the circling skies,

Tongue-tied and twisted just an earth-bound misfit I...

I took these mesmerizing photos en route to Delhi for my Pindari Glacier Trek.Looking down at the earth below,with the sea of clouds...with the half shining,half fading horizon...makes us realise how inconspicuous we are...in the bigger cosmic scheme of things!

The Sea beckons from the hilltop-Utan

2009-09-05T21:54:00.007+05:30

Imagine a place from where you can see the Arabian Ocean's vast expanse - left,right and centre.A place located on a hilltop with Coconut trees lined along the gravelled path,swayed to and fro by the strong wind that the Sea brings.Utan is a small fishing village located near Bhayander and I went there Friday night with three of my office colleagues.

The unique thing about Utan is that,there is no beach.The road runs along with the Sea,with 100's of fishing boats(Large,Small,Elaborately Designed,Plain)...waiting to get to the deep waters - so that the Koli fishermen can bring the evening's catch for their families.Wild Hen's,playful dogs and mischievous kids all run amok on the narrow broken down roads,and once a while they look up to the strangers entering their town.

Utan Resort is a exotic getaway build on a hilltop(about 75 Mt's high) overlooking the vast expanse of the Arabian sea.The owner as I was made to understand is a dentist from Mumbai - and I must say that the man has done a great job.The resort is tastefully done - wether in terms of the ambiance,Furniture or the quality of food. There are three kind of cottages - Double Bed Cottages,Double Bed Cottages with Balcony or Bungalows.The Bungalows I heard are used for shooting Bollywood movies.The basic charges for the Double Bed Cottages is 3000 INR and that's worth it,because the rooms are clean,the outside ambiance lush and green.Moreover Utan Resort definitely has a fantastic cook in the Kitchen.We tried the Prawn Koliwada and Pomphfret Curry along with Yellow dal and Rice - and it was fresh and extremely delicious.The most important thing is that the staff is extremely friendly and courteous.I had to check my e-mails and they told their back office girl to stop her work and allow me to surf.Now that's what I call - "Pleasing the Customer by making him King".

The Terrainspotter strongly suggests Utan to those who are looking for Quality - not Quantity.It's definitely for those with a great taste for aesthetics - wether man made or natural.

The Details to get you there:

Location : Utan Village,Bhayander(West),District Thane

Place to stay : u-tan Sea Resort

Things to do : Nothing:-)

Contact Number : 9821759882(Mr Morris)

Photo Courtesy : Mr Elton D'souza

Gastronomy Divine!

2009-09-02T14:06:00.021+05:30

In Mumbai,there lies a place called VT.In VT,there's an area called Fort and in and around Fort are Gastronomic delights.Delights - that - give - your - stomach - the - taste of Malwani,Gomantak,Parsi and even classic Chinese and Indian Veg cuisine!It's been six months and I thought it's time to list out some of the best places to eat at Fort,Mumbai.

Hotel Fountain Plaza(Malwani Cuisine) - Malvani cuisine is the standard cuisine of the Konkan region of Maharashtra,Goa and northern parts of West Karnataka. Although Malvani cuisine is predominantly non-vegetarian, there are many vegetarian delicacies also.When in Fountain Plaza,try their Chicken Biryani,Standard Fish Thali(Rs 50) and of course Porota and Sukka Mutton/Chicken.You can go for normal rice or red rice(the fat rice with a slightly red colour).

Pradeep Gomantak : This place really is unique.It looks like a staff canteen,there's hardly any place to sit and the restaurant owner looks at you with glaring eyes.Add to that a long queue of people waiting for their turn,the initial feel would be a sickening one.But rest assured,once you have the Pomphret Thali here(for an unbelievably cheap Rs 70) you will be coming out singing praises of this Gomantak food joint.Gomantak Cuisine is the cuisine of Goa specifically!

Ideal Restaurant : From Malwani to Gomantak to Parsi now...ahhh...in Gastronomic explosiveness,Parsi food has no other equal.Also the right style is to take starter,then food and end with dessert.So start with "Bombili Fry"(Bombay Duck fried in Rawa),move on to the Achari Chicken with Chapatti and then dive later into the Lagan Custard.Although Ideal is far costlier than the other two mentioned above.A meal for two hungry people can come for about 350-400 here!

Aaaram Veg Restaurant : Once in a while,after a hard nights party and too many Non Veg meals later,you long for simple Veg food and Aaaram gives you that.Bang opposite to VT station,Aaaram is filled to the brim with people between 1-2 PM.Try out the plain but tasty Puri Bhaji,Veg Pulao and the Batata Vada.Prices not to mention are super cheap.By the way,beware of the angry and defiant waiters,who dont like you calling them...hehe...they come to you.Aaaram has been there at VT for Donkeys years and it runs on word of mouth only.So please leave your ego aside when you go in!

Shaan Chinese Corner : Run by a Musalman,ironically this restaurant makes some mouthwatering Chinese Dishes instead of Mughlai.Bang opposite to the Bata Showroom in Fort,try out their Schezwan Fried Rice with Chicken Hot Garlic.It's quite a treat to the tongue!

Well,now you know what I have been doing in Mumbai between 1 -2 PM all this while!The other two guys in the picture are my fellow office Gluttons:-)

P.S : Fountain Plaza,Pradeep Gomantak and Ideal Corner are all behind Times Of India Building!

Days and Nights in the Forest-Satyajit Rays Genius Unfolded!

2009-08-29T22:51:00.007+05:30

I have been writing about travels and terrains for the last two years.Is there a movie that defines the urban middle class's search for solace and tranquility in the jungles,in the still of the night?In 1969,Satyajit Ray directed "Aranyer Din Ratri"(Day's and nights in the forest).It was a movie that pitted four urban youths against the rural heartland,the rawness on life and the lust for it!It was a movie that showed the "Urban Middle Class" in search of that elusive answer.Soumitro Chatterjee(Asheem) as the main protagonist -the urban middle class model man,Hari(Samit Bhanja) as the rebel,Dhuli(Simi Garewal) as the lure and Sharmila Tagore(Aparna) as the ideal match for Asheem.Subendu Chatterjee(Sanjoy) defined the hesitant urban middle class - confused over following his own heart or his own inner fears - etched in the scene in which Kaberi Bose(Jaya) tries to seduce him.

The movie makes you think.After all,what is life?Is it an unknown journey or a quest?Is it a void that is filled with daily chores - of joy and sadness?Or is it all mapped in our palms...our paths decided...our destiny written?Is it friendship,relationships,affinities...that withers away?or is it a maze of paths that we choose that decides the outcome?Is it our missed chances or the lack of it?Are we all victims of our own karma?Or are we cursed to be living a life in which we have our physical needs fulfilled in this middle class urban psychobabble and our self actualisations unfulfilled?

I don't know because if I did...I guess I wont be asking.

Comfortably Numb!!

2009-08-23T21:06:00.004+05:30

Hello,Is there anybody in there?
Just nod if you can hear me...
Is there anyone home?

The Mental Orgasm Theory - Part 9(Satiated)

2009-08-16T23:36:00.010+05:30

The beauty of the Western Ghats in the rains can only be understood once you visit them.

Just stand beside the edge of the cliff,take a whiff of the fresh air and seep in the wonderful sight!

Moreover the roads are a joy to drive on!You feel like stopping after short spurts of driving and get out of the car to feel the hills and savour the view!

Come October!

2009-08-09T22:48:00.005+05:30

I am going to the heavens in October.A heaven where there is peace...tranquility....and an ultimatum...that this life is for living.

I am going where the chosen few tread.A place which awes you...and holds you breathless!!!

and most of all...I am going with my chosen few!Athos,Aramis and Porthos!

Photo Courtesy : Was lying in my hard disc for years.It's not shot by me.But it probably is captured by some of my older group i.e Mr Handbomb,Mr A,Mr V.Whoever it is,thanks for the lovely pics!