Textile Aid

Textile Calculations | All Formulae of Textile Calcualtions for Spinning/Weaving/Knitting

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 20 Apr 2019 18:22:00 +0000

Important formulas for blow room section:

Amount of Trash removal
Cleaning Efficiency of Blow room section: -------------------------------- x 100
                                                                      Total amount of Trash

   Length of Lap (yds) Unit weight
Lap Hank : -------------------------------- x --------------------------
                          Unit length                          Weight of Lap (lb)

                                 Surface speed of calendar roller x 60 x Eff % x wastage % x scatcher number
Production of Blow room/hr : ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ,lb
                                                               36 x 840 x hank

D    Knock off Wheel Warm Wheel
Length of Lap : ----- x ------------------------ x -------------------, yds (D= Dia of Bottom calendar roller)
                           36            Change Wheel       Single Warm

Important Formulas for Cotton Carding Section:

                           Present DCP x Present Hank           Present DCP x New Sliver weight
Required DCP : ---------------------------------- =      -------------------------------------------
                                Required Hank                            Present Sliver weight

                        Lap Length (Yds) x 1 lb
Lap Hank : ------------------------------------
                       840 x Lap weight (lb)

                      Sliver Length (Yds) x 1 lb
Carded Sliver Hank : ------------------------------------
                    840 x Sliver weight (lb)

                          Carded Sliver Hank           Feed or Lap Weight       Mechanical Draft x 100
Actual Draft : ------------------------   =    --------------------------- = -----------------------
                           Feed or Lap Hank            Carded Sliver Weight           100 - wastage

                              Actual Draft x 100 - wastage            Draft Constant
Mechanical Draft : ----------------------------------     =   ---------------------
                                           100                                              DCP

   Speed of the circumference of Doffer (inch/min) x Efficiency x 60
Production of Carding Machine: --------------------------------------------------------------------------, lb/hr
                                                                             36 x 840 x Hank

or

   Speed of the circumference of Calendar roller (inch/min) x Eff x 60 x Tension Draft
Production of Carding Machine: --------------------------------------------------------------------------, lb/hr
                                                                             36 x 840 x Hank

What is Yarn Count? | Yarn Numbering System

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 20 Apr 2019 16:46:00 +0000

Yarn Count: Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and also indicate the relationship between length and weight (the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn count has been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of length to weight.

Type of Yarn Count:

One distinguishes between two systems:

Direct Count System:

The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count! The common features of all direct count systems are the length of yarn is fixed and the weight of yarn varies according yo its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

W x l

N = ------

Here,

N= Yarn count or numbering system

W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system.

L = Length of the sample

l = Unit of length of the sample.

Definition of the above system is as follows :

Tex System : No of grams per 1000 meters
Denier: No Of grams per 9000 meters
Deci Tex : No Of Grams per 10000 meters
Millitex : No of milligrams per 1000 meters
Kilotex: No Of Kilograms per 1000 meters
Jute Count: No Of lb per 14,400 yds

The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grams of 1000 meters yarn, thus 40 Tex means 1000 meters of yarn weight 40 gram.

The Denier of a yarn indicates the weight in grams of 9000 meters yarn, thus 150 D means 9000 meters of yarn weight 150 grams and 100 D means 9000 meters of yarn weight 100 gm.

From above discussion it is concluded that higher the yarn number (count) coarser the yarn and lower the umber finer the yarn.

Indirect Count System:

The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count.

The common features of all indirect count systems are the weight of yarn is fixed and the length of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

L x w

N = ---------

W x l

Here,

N= Yarn count or numbering system

W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system.

L = Length of the sample

l = Unit of length of the sample.

w = Unit of length of the sample

Definition of the above system is as follows:

English count system (Ne) : No of 840 yds lengths per pound
Metric Count System (Nm) : No of Kilometers per kilogram
Woollen Count (YSW) : No of 256 yds lengths per pound
Worsted Count, NeK: No of 560 yd lengths per pound
Linen count, NeL : No of 300 yd lengths per pound

The English Count, Ne indicates how many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English pound. Thus, 32Ne means 32 hanks of 849 yards, i.e. 32x840 yards length weight one pound.

The Metric Count, Nm indicates how many hanks of 1000 meters length weigh one kg. Thus 50Nm means 50 hanks of 1000 meters i.e. 50x1000 meters length weigh one kg and 100Nm means 100 hanks of 1000 meters i.e. 100x1000 meters length weigh one kg.

From above discussion it is concluded that higher the yarn number or yarn count finer the yarn and lower the number or count coarser the yarn.

Most important conversion factors:

1 yard = 0.9144 meter
1 meter = 1.0936 yard
1 meter = 39.37 inch
1 cm = 0.3937 inch
1inch = 2.54 cm
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
1 gm = 0.0353 oz
1 oz = 28.350 gm
1 lb (pound) = 453.6 gm
1 lb = 0.4536 kg
1 kg = 2.2046 lb (pound)
1 m/kg - 0.4961 yd/lb
1 yd/lb = 2.0159 m/k

Textile and Garments eBook Download | Get Your Required eBook From Textile Aid

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sun, 17 Mar 2019 15:34:00 +0000

eBooks are essential for the students and professionals related to the study of Textile and Garments. But the eBooks are not available for free download from any website thus it is to be purchased spending money. Textile Aid is offering eBooks to the publishers who publishes at least one article in this blog.

Your published articles will be read by numerous visitors across the glob and we will acknowledge you as the writer of the respective article. Please select your required eBooks from below list.

Please go to Publish Article Page and get your required eBook.

Book List of Textile Fiber:

1. Bast and other Plant Fibers, Edited by Prof. J E Mcintyre

2. Cotton: Science and Technology, Edited by S. Gordon and Y-L, Hsieh

3. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers by E. R. Trotman

4. Fiber Bragg Gratings by Raman Kashyap

5. Physical Properties of Textile Fibers by W.E. Morton and J.W.S. Hearle

6. Polymer Chemistry, Edited by Fred J. Davis

7. Process of Fiber Formation by Zbigniew K. Walczak

8. Smart Fibers, Fabric and Cloting, Edited by Xiaoming Tao

9. Synthetic Fibers

10. Textile Reference Book for Man Made Fibers by Cesare Andreoli & Fabrizio Freti

11. High Performance Fibers, Edited by J W S Hearle

Book List of Yarn Manufacturing Technology:

1. Textile Reference book for Spinning by Ezio Canssoni

2. DRawframe

3. Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology by Carl A. Lawrence

Book List of Fabric Manufacturing Technology:

1. Knitting Technology, David J Spencer

2. Textile Reference Book for Knitting by Carmine Mazza Paola Zonda

3. Fabric Structure and Design by N. Gokarneshan

4. First Book of Modern Lace Knitting by Marianne Kinzel

5. Handbook of Weaving by Sabit Adanur

6. Handbook of Textile Design by Jacquie Wilson

7. Textile Reference book for weaving by Giovanni Castelli

8. Fabric Testing

Book List of Dyeing and Printing Technology:

1. Textile Printing, Edited by Leslie W C Miles

2. Basic Principles of Textile Coloration by Arthur D Broadbent

3. Color Space and Its Divisions by Rolf G. Kuehni

4. Dyes and Pigment, Eidted by Arnold R. Lang

5. Environmental Aspects of Textile Dyeing, Edited by R.M. Christie

6. Industrial Dyes, Edited By Blaus Hunger

7. Textile Dyes by Mansoor Iqbal

8. The Chemistry of Dyeing by John K Wood

9. Absorbent Technology by P.K. Chatterjee & B.S. Gupta

10. Chemical Technology in the Pre-Treatment Processes of Textiles by S.R. Karmakar

11. Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers by G. Von. Geogievics

12. Chemistry and Technology of Fabric Preparation & Finishing by Dr. Charles Tomasino

13. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers by E.R. Trotman

14. Encyclopedia of Textile Finishing by Prof.Dr. rer. nat. Hans-Karl Rouette

15. Handbook of Detergents, Edited by Heinrich Waldhoff & Rudiger Spilker

16. Textile Reference book for Finishing by Pietro Bellini

17. Textile Processing with Enzymes, Edited by A. Cavaco-Paulo and G.M. Gubitz

18. The Finishing of Textile Fabrics by Roberts Beamont

19. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers by E. R. Trotman

Book List of Apparel Manufacturing Technology:

1. Advances in Carpet Manufacturing, Edited by K.K. Goswami

2. Sewing Machines Operations Manual

3. Innovation and Technology of Women's intimate apparels, Edited by W.Yu, J.Fan, S.C. Harlock and S.P.Ng

4. Engineering apparel fabrics and garments, Edited By J.Fan and L.Hunter

5. Fashion Drawing by John Hopkins

6. Fashion Marketing, Edited by Mike Easey

7. The Apparel Industry by Richard M. Jones

Book List of Fashion Design:

1. Figure Drawing For Fashion Design

2. Fashion Drawing by John Hopkins

Book List of Technical Textile:

1. Handbook of Fiber optic data communication, Edited by Casimer Decusatis

2. Military Textiles, Edited by Eugene Wilusz

3. Non woven Fabrics, Edited by Wilhelm Albrecht, Hilmar Fuchs & Walter Kittelmann

4. Textiles in automotive engineering by Walter Fung and Mike Hardcastle

5. Composite Forming Technologies, Edited by A.C. Long

6. Design and Manufacture of Textile Composites, Edited by A.C. Long

7. Coated and Laminated Textiles by Walter Fung

8. Handbook of Technical Textiles, Edited By A R Horrocks and S C Anand

9. High Performance Fibers, Edited by J W S Hearle

10. Recycling in Textiles, Edited by Youjiang Wang

Book List of Textile Calculation:

1. Textile Calculation by E.A. Posselet.

Book List of Textile Glossary:

1. Complete Textile Glossary

2. Dye Glossary

Recylced Polyester (rPET) | Sustainability of Polyester Recycling

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 16 Mar 2019 14:35:00 +0000

Polyester is one of the popular man made fiber which is used 49% in garment industries. Like 100% polyester made fabric, blended fabric like TC, CVC or TR are still famous in the current world.

What is Polyester or Virgin Polyester?

Polyester is a synthetic fiber that is synthesized from crude oil or petroleum products which are commonly known as ethylene glycol, dimethyl terepthalate and mostly from polyethylene terepthalate (PET) which is the most common class of plastic in the in the world. It is all around a polymerization process. It is used in clothing to reduce the price, make more durable, wrinkle free appearance, high strength and more resistant. The other advantages of polyester garments are easy to clean and dries quickly. But the garment made of polyester is not environment friendly and it is notorious for many reasons.

The main reason that is harmful for environment is the production process of polyester fabric involves consumption of huge quantity water, chemicals, dyes and energy resources. Thus the water level is reduced, cause to increase the global temperature due to high energy requirement and discharging polluted chemical mixed water into the adjacent water bodies which is harmful for flora and fauna. Also the raw materials and their by products are toxic that pollutes the water and air which are the reason of many diseases.

This artificial fabric is non biodegradable and also less comfort in comparison with cotton due to not presence of breath-ability.

What is Recycled Polyester?

Recycled polyesters are made from the plastic bottles that are used for water, juices, oils or soaps. Here, the main raw material is PET and after recycling it is known as rPET. In most of the plastic bottles we find a mark with he number "01" inside the triangular symbol for recycling along with the acronym "PET" below it. It means the PET can be recycled to produce further polyester material.

The process of Polyester Recycling:

The collected PET bottles are sorted by color such as to make white polyester yarn separate transparent bottles and for blue separate the blue bottles.Then they are sterilized, dried and crushed into small chips passing trough a grinder.
The chips are then heated and dried to avoid any moisture. After that they are passed through a spinneret to form the filament of polyester fiber.
The filaments are then strengthen and wounded up in spools.
Need to give some texture on the filament is the next process which makes the fiber fluffy.
Then the filaments are dyed or colored.
Then they are baled and made ready for weaving and knitting.

Sustainability of Recycled Polyester:

The process Polyester Recycling requires less energy which is supposed to be 50-60% than the production process of virgin polyester. This is the huge difference between Recycled Polyester and Virgin Polyester. Also the consumption of water, chemical and dyes are very less for rPET. Also using rPET reduces the dependency on petroleum which is the main raw material of polyester. Converting the PET bottles into rPET reduces landfill and thus less soil contamination, air and water pollution.

Since PET bottles are non biodegradable products the Recycling process gives a second life to the material. According to the NGO: Ocean Conservancy, 8 million metric tons of plastics enter into the ocean each year and on top of that the approximate 150 million metric tons are currently circulated in marine ecosystem. If it continues, by 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish. Plastic has been found 60% of all the sea birds and 100% to the turtles as they frequently mistake to take plastic as food. Thus, the thinking of sustainability to make rPET is very much required to save the whole environment and specially the marine ecosystem.

The other benefits of Recycles Polyesters are the quality which is similar to the virgin polyester. The production process of rPET reduces 32% Carbon Dioxide(CO2) emission. According to the "Textile Exchange" , the PET can be recycled again and again without hampering its quality though recycling from blended polyester fabric is still a challenge. 100% polyester made fabric can be recycled without deteriorating its fiber quality.

Also we should understand the recycling of polyester has its own limit whereas blended polyester more difficult and in some cases not possible to recycle them. People can think that plastics may be recycled again and again but each time plastics are heated thus the subsequent iteration of the polymer is degraded and the plastic must be used to make low quality product. Though recycled polyester takes almost 59% less energy than to produce virgin polyester but it still takes more energy than both organic and conventional cotton, hemp and wool.

You Make Also Like:

Recycled Cotton | Benefits and Challenges of Cotton Recycling

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Wed, 06 Mar 2019 16:25:00 +0000

In the sustainability context, recycle cotton is a popular topic with high interest of manufacturers, brands and retailers. For the entire supply chain of textile, recycled cotton can play a vital role to fulfill the goal of sustainability. Cotton is the most popular and comfortable fiber that is used around 56% of total fiber uses across the world. It has reliable quality performance as it is versatile, breathable and very comfortable to wear off.

Conventional cotton harvesting involves use of large scale pesticides,, herbicides and fertilizers that cause to harm the whole environment. In addition, cotton harvesting and processing requires huge amount of water that is left as wastewater cause harm for aquatic lives.

For sustainable cotton harvesting there are some concept already exists like Organic Cotton( GOTS of OCS Certified cotton), Fairtrade cotton and Better Cotton (BCI). Besides the organic, Fairtrade and BCI cotton the new concept is recycled or regenerated cotton. It is not that much new as it was initiated in the beginning of 21st century and still continues with more and more research.

Recycled cotton prevents unnecessary wastage and can be a more sustainable alternative to disposal. It can come from secondhand clothing or from textile waste or leftovers which are eventually spun into new yarns and then fabric. It is also commonly referred to as regenerated cotton or reclaimed cotton. Basically the sources of cotton recycling are two types: Pre-consumer cotton and Post-consumer cotton.

Pre-consumer cotton: Includes wastage in yarn production, fabric, garments cutting room or so on that are not used for any clothing

Post-consumer Cotton: Includes used garments, upholstery, towels, household items.

In fact, the largest share of the source is pre-consumer waste.

Process of Cotton Recycling: It is all together mechanical recycling method. The wastes are collected and then sorted into colors as they are already dyed. After sorting, the fabrics or other kind of pre consumer wastages are run through a machine that shreds them into yarn and further into raw fiber. This is a critical process and puts a great deal of strain on the fiber thus it becomes weaken and entangled during shredding.

The raw fibers is then spun into yarns for reuse in the other products. Since the quality will not be the same as original cotton thus it is spun with other fibers as blend. Most common blend happens with virgin cotton and polyester. The fiber length and uniformity will be impacted which leads to limit of the end use application.

Use of Recycled Cotton:
It is frequently blended with some other fibers to make fabric or other textiles, creating sustainable environmental friendly product. Recycled cotton can be used in industrial settings for polishing. It is popular to be made high quality paper with recycled cotton. The papers used for high command official purposes are mostly made of recycled cotton. It is also used for seat stuffing and automotive insulation in the industry of automobiles. Now Denim fabric mills are using recycle poly as a new concept under sustainable umbrella for the high interest of Brands and Retailers.

Benefits of Cotton Recycling:

It can be used for insulation, rags of stuffing where it appears with new life cycle.
Recycling process prevent unwanted wastage that can divert many products from landfills. According to the Council for Textile Recycling, annual textile waste is estimated about 25 billion pounds.
Since it is already colored so after recycling further coloring is not required
The amount of energy, water and dyestuff use is reduced since recycled cotton yarns most commonly are sourced from pre-consumer textiles that are sorted by color.
Reduce the emission of CO2 and other fossil fuel.

Challenges of Cotton Recycling:

Since Cotton becomes weaken during recycling it must be blended with other fibers to be produced new yarn with required strength and durability and therefore it can not recycled further.
Any amount of recycled product will impact the yarn and fabric properties such as length, strength, evenness and uniformity.
Cost is generally higher than the standard cotton processing
Test results are not that much good.
In a product not more than 30% recycled cotton can be used.
Consumer interest to buy recycled cotton product with higher price is less.

After all, Cotton is a fiber that is naturally biodegradable, based on a study of North Carlina State University of USA, more that 75% cotton decomposed in soil within 273 days of dumping. So it is naturally a sustainable fiber all together.

You May Also Like:

Sustainable Denim Washing | Reason Behind Seeking Sustainable Denim Production

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sun, 03 Mar 2019 18:28:00 +0000

Denim is one of the most polluting industries among all textile departments. Now a day’s, technologists are continuously trying to invent environmental and production friendly manufacturing facilities to avoid traditional procedures. Despite the ecological facts are involved this particular industry is growing rapidly than any other. Behind the giant denim industry the big issues are the huge quantity of secondhand trash, unusable stock, denim waste, high-consumption of water, hazardous chemicals and energy.

Denim is a dynamic, featuring field of fashion where the achievements of the science and new features of lifestyle are assumed in new styles. To understand the modern phenomenon of denim topic has to be accessed from different aspects. This field of fashion is rapidly growing business, thus continuous monitoring of the market is a must for all the professionals.

Denim is also one of the biggest employers in the world. It is giving work to a lots of people: stakeholders in the textile, garment and fashion industry including small and medium enterprises and large companies, designers and creative personnel of leading global fashion houses and emerging brands, actors of the retail sector as well as there are huge interest of machinery makers, workers and technologists of the weaving mill and so on.

There is an effective cost saving aspect of sustainable denim project. In sustainability the uses of chemical and water are reduced along with energy reduction which is cost effective. For less chemical the extra cost is reducing and on the other hand less water gives less effluent which can help to save cost that involves in ETP management.

A recent study has shown that sustainable product has good quality in comparison overall conventional product. As example, for aggressive washes, where many of processes are involved, the more number of processes the more number of rejections will be, also falling of tearing strength is another concern.

The growing business of denim is becoming a threat to the environment and also unhygienic to the worker involved directly to washing. The uses of huge amount of water, hazardous chemicals and higher energy consumption are the key factors to deteriorate the condition of the environment.

According to the prospect of reducing consumption of water, chemicals & energy and also to reduce impact of worker sustainability in denim washing has come to light in the world trend. Many of the big retailers are selling sustainable denim in the world market which is becoming more popular in EU and US market gradually.

To define sustainability we can say that this is the capability to maintain a certain process or state indefinitely. Sustainability has been expressed as meeting the need of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet human needs.

Using the minimal resources for denim production like changing procedures or reducing one or two steps and even by using alternative chemicals & new technology are commonly treated as sustainability in denim washing. Eventually, cost of denim production may reduce if less water and bio degradable chemicals are used which is only possible through sustainable concept.

Reason of seeking sustainability:

Global Aspects: Across the world 7.2 Billion Peoples in 2017 whereas 9 Billion people will be in 2050 or closer to that. To feed, give clothing and providing shelter for everyone does not come free. Everything has a cost. This cost to be brought by the environment.

According to total textile exchange, about 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing.

About 2700 liter of fresh water is used to make one cotton T-shirt. About 920 gallons water is used to make one jeans. Other textile products also consume huge amounts of energy and water in processing and finishing.

1 trillion kwh used by the global textile industry. This equals approximate 10% of global carbon impact.

Aspects of Bangladesh: It is estimated that in Bangladesh approximately 719 wet processing facilities including knit fabric dyeing and denim washing factories consume around 750 billion litres of groundwater annually. While in Bangladesh there are factories which are top of class, there are also indications of water consumption levels of 300 litres per kg of fabric – a figure which is approximately 3 times higher than the global average.

High water consumption also comes with relatively high energy consumption, heating more water than strictly required in the dyeing process. This contributes to a set of water-related challenges, Bangladesh is also facing severe energy shortages. The country produces only about ¾ of its energy needs, requiring many fabric and garment manufacturers to generate their own.

According to a study conducted by BUET (Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology) that was published in The Dailystar the Textile Industries would be dumping 20,300 crore liters of untreated wastewater into the countries water bodies every year from 2021 if the present situation goin on. Thus the pollution would be threatening fisheries, biodiversity and groundwater.

The untreated effluents could instigate quick changes in the aquatic ecosystems and may affect the life of fisheries. The water bodies might face increase of temperature due to warm wastewater that discharges into them and cause to high impact on flora and fauna. Dhaka, Narayanganj and Gazipur belt of textile industries are major deliver of the wastewater to the nearly waterbodies. Referring to another study, it said textile industries near the Shitalakkhya river discharge their untreated dye with heavy metals into the river.

To meet the export value $50 billion by 2021 the manufacturers are intended to enlarge their business volume that eventually impacts on high discharge of wastewater.According to the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act, 1995 the textile dyeing and washing industries are in "Red Category Industry", that are treated as most polluting.

There is stringent rule by the Department of Environment that ETP is must to run any wet processing facility but many of the factories are yet to install the waste water treatment plant as running the ETP is expensive, approximately tk 20-35 crore needs to install an ETP plant. Both chemical and biological ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) is mandatory and it has to be functional as well.

With this realization of need to have sustainable products and looking at huge impact of textile industry on the environment – of which denim is the vital portion – the natural way forward is only devising new products, ways and processes which can help in reducing the environmental footprint of textiles.

The main three pillars of the concept of Sustainable Denim Production are -

Environmental
Social
Economical

Taking this in consideration there are some methods, processes and technology are being applied to reduce the impact and to make sustainable Denim product. Some of them are as follows:

Single bath method
Ensure front loading machines that consume less whater
Equip laundry with modern washing machinery that enables to wash denim at low M:L ratio
Use water meter to 100% washing machine
Use EIM which is powered by Jeanologia
Ozone Fading
Use of green chemical
Ice blasting
Use of laser
Install functional chemical and biological ETP

You May Also like:

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) | Sustainable Cotton Production Standard

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sun, 03 Mar 2019 14:52:00 +0000

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a non-profit organizations aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment and better for the sectors future. Goal of BCI is aligned to the goals of SDGs as it embraces the SDGs and is inspired to be part of a global community working to make the world a better place. The Better Cotton Standard System covers the main three elements of sustainability : Environmental, social and economic. Each of the elements from the principles and criteria to the monitoring mechanisms which show results and impact - work together to support the better cotton standard system.

BCI standard was initiated in the year 2005 and was recognized by GAP INC, Organic Exchange(Textile Exchange), H&M, ICCO, IFAP, IFC, IKEA, Oxfam, PAN UK and WWF.

BCI is the largest cotton sustainability programme in the globe. It has 1.3 millions licensed farmers in 21 countries to whom BCI and its partners provide training on more sustainable agricultural practices.

BCI supports the farmers to improve the poor environmental management and working conditions to produce cotton.Licensed BCI Farmers produce cotton in a way that care for the environment, minimizing the negative effects of fertilizers and pesticides and caring for water, soil health and natural habitats. BCI farmers also commit to decent work principles - conditions that support workers safety and well being.

BCI Farmers produced 3.3 million metric tonnes of BCI cotton in the 2016-17 which is enough to make 2.5 billion pairs of Jeans. Currently Better cotton accounts for 14% of global cotton production which is included the three BCI recognized equivalent Standards: CmiA(Africa), MyBMP(Australia) and ABR(Brazil).

SO far BCI has 1197 members spanning the cotton supply chain, 85 brands and retailers, 1039 suppliers and manufacturers, 32 producers organizations, 31 civil society member and 12 associate members.

Besides BCI, organic (GOTS & OCS) Fairtrade, myBMP(Australia), ABR(Brazil), Aid by Trade Foundation and some others work towards ensuring sustainable cotton production.

Principles and Criteria:

Betters cotton standard works based on seven important principles what their licensed farmers responsible to do:

minimize the harmful impact of crop protection practices
promote water stewardship
care for the health of the soil
enhance biodiversity and use land responsibly
care for and preserve fibre quality
promote decent work
operate an effective management system

Assurance Programme:

The Better Cotton Assurance Programme is a key component of the Better Cotton Standard System. It involves farmers participating in a continuous cycle of learning and improvement, and is the central mechanism for assessing whether farmers can grow and sell Better Cotton.

Chain of Custody(CoC):

The Better Cotton Chain of Custody (CoC) is the key framework that connects demand with supply of Better Cotton and helps to incentivize cotton farmers to adopt more sustainable practices.

The CoC refers to the chronological documentation, paper trail and electronic evidence that relates to the movement of Better Cotton products through the supply chain. This ensures the volume of Better Cotton claimed by BCI Retailer and Brand Members does not exceed the volume of Better Cotton produced by licensed BCI Farmers in any given time period, accounting for conversion rates.

Better Cotton Claims Framework:

It provides support to BCI members to make credible and positive claims about Better Cotton. This Claims Framework is is governed by the BCI Code of Practice, BCI Terms of Membership, and BCI Monitoring Protocol.

Outcome and Impact:

BCI standard is stringent to their commitments to measuring sustainability improvements everywhere of the cotton production. It has a aim of achieving 30% cotton will be produced in the way of BCI whereas currently it upholds 14% of the total amount produced. BCI standard works based on result indicator date which measure quantitatively differences between incensed BCI Farmers and non BCI Farmers in the same Geographical area.

Funding:
BCI Organization receives funding from three sources: earned income for services delivered; grants and donations from private and public funders; and volume-based fees and funding from brands. \

You May Also Like:

Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sun, 03 Mar 2019 05:37:00 +0000

Organic Content Standard (OCS) provides certificate to any non-food product that contains organic material 5-100 percent. It examines the presence and amount of organic material in a very final product and checks the other certification for the raw materials.

It provides the assurance of organic content that claims by the seller or manufacturer. It provides a strong chain of custody system from the source of the organic raw material to the final product through certification. It depends on third party accreditation for transparent, consistent and comprehensive independent evaluation and verification of organic material claims on products.

The OCS label can be used only for the company who ensures the products actually contain organic material. This standard does not cover the certification of the raw material itself, which is verified independently of the production process certification. It also does not address processing inputs like chemicals, environmental aspects like energy or water usage, social issues, safety issues or any legal compliance.

OCS certification is powered by Textile Exchange which is an international member supported non profit organization that was established in 2003 under the original name Organic Exchange. Later on 2010 it became Textile Exchange with the mission to inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.

Principles of The OCS Certification:

The OCS provides third - party verification of organic material content in a product and options for corresponding consumer facing claims. It addresses the flow of product within and between companies, raw material verification, post harvest processing, manufacturing, packaging and labeling, storage, handling and shipping through the seller in the last business to business transaction.

The OCS requires all organizations to be certified beginning with post harvest processing sites. (The raw material farming company shall not be certified to both Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and OCS. If a farm is certified to OCS and wants to be certified to GOTS, it shall contact its responsible CB to terminate its OCS Scope Certificate prior tot he GOTS scope Certificate Issuance)

Raw materials or fibers producing companies have to be certified by an accredited certification body to comply with the USDA National Organic Program (NOP), Regulation (EC) 834/2007 or IFOAM family.( Testing for the presence of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO) in the organic material shall be carried out by the certification body(CB) based on a risk assessment.)

The OCS allows "in-conversion" organic material as inputs if the applicable farming standard permit such certification.

All Organic materials entering the supply chain shall have a Transaction Certificate (TX) issued by the Certification Body.

The OCS may be used any product that contains non-food organic material (Any products being sold in the United States and making a reference to "Organic" on the label shall have the organic materials certified to the USDA NOP standard(As per USDA Policy).

The OCS Applies to products that contain 5% to 100% Organic material.

Buyers of the OCS product are responsible to set any requirement on the specific organic standards to which the input material should be certified.

A certificate of OCS look like below-

You May Also Like:

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements

Acronyms and Abbreviations of Apparel Industry | Most Common Abbreviations of Garments (RMG)

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 02 Mar 2019 08:11:00 +0000

Abbreviations on entire apparel sector are used frequently in daily job to minimize wordings during communication. A top potential leaders must have the knowledge so that he/she can grab and reply to the opposite person in a conversation or mailing. Below are the best and most usable abbreviations that we face regularly in our daily work.

RMG: Ready Made Garments

BGMEA: Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association

BKMEA: Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association

BTMC: Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation

BTMA: Bangladesh Textile Mills Association

BGWUC: Bangladesh Garments Worker Unit Council

WTO: World Trade Organization

AQL: Acceptable Quality Level

CBL: Center Back Line

CFL: Center Front Line

FOB: Free On Board

FCA: Free Carrier

GPT: Garments Performance Test

FPT: Fabric Performance Test

FDS: Fabric Data Sheet

EPB: Exporter Promotion Bureau

C & F: Cost & Freight

CIF: Cost, Insurance and Freight

CM: Cost of Making

CMT: Cost of Making with Trimming

NSA: No Seam Allowance

BOM: Bill Of Materials

BL: Bill of Loading

COO: Certificate of Origin

L/C: Letter of Credit

BB L/C: Back to Back L/C

UD: Utilization Declaration

UP: Utilization Permission

AAQC: American Association of Quality Control

LCA: Letter of Credit Authorization

PSI: Pre-Shipment Inspection

CAD: Computer Aided Design

CAM: Computer Aided Manufacturing

PTS: Primary Textile Sector

GDP: Growth Domestic Product

ISO: International Organization for Standardization

GSP: Generalized System of Preferences

GATT: Generalized Agreement on Tariffs and Taxes

MFA: Multi Fiber Arrangement

EPB: Export Promotion Bureau

FY: Financial/Fiscal Year

PTI: Private Textile Industry

VAT : Value Added Tax

ETP: Effluent Treatment Plant

T/C: Tetron + Cotton

CVC: Chief Value Cotton

CNF: Clearing & Forwarding

BWTG: Better Worker in Textile Garments

EPI: Ends per Inch

PPI: Picks per Inch

ILO: International Labor Organization

IMF: International Monetary Fund

IFTU: International Federation of Trade Union

ETD: Estimated Time of Delivery/Disptach

ETA: Estimated Time of Arrival

CRD: Cargo Receive Date

COD: Cash On Delivery

CBM: Cubic Meter

C&F: Cost and Freight/Clearing and Forwarding

PI: Proforma Invoice

CI: Commercial Invoice

PL: Packing List

EPZ: Export Processing ZOne

ERP: Enterprise Resource Planning

YY: Yield Yardages

DTM: Dye to Match

EMB: Embroidery

ICC: International Chamber of Commerce

ILO: International labour Organization

IE: Industrial Engineering

IPE: Industrial Production Engineering

ISO: International Organization for Standardization

KPI: Key performance Indicator

OZ: Ounce

GSM: Gram Per Square Meter

PPM: Pre Production Meeting

PDM: Product Development Manual

QA: Quality Assurance

QC: Quality Control

QMS: Quality Management System

AQL: Acceptable Quality Level

SPI: Stitch Per Inch

SMV: Standard Minute Value

SMA: Standard Allowed Minute

SKU: Stock Keeping Unit

SOP: Standard Operating Procedure

TNA: Time and Action

CAP: Corrective Action Plan

PFD: Prepared For Dyeing

RFD: Ready For Dyeing

RSL: Restricted Substances List

TQM: Total Quality Management

UPC: Universal Product Code

GHS: Global Harmonzied System

EPB: Export Promotion Bureau

EU: European Union

EC: European Commission

IMF: International Monetary Fund

TU: Trade Union

FDI: Foreign Direct Investment

FOA: Free on Air

FTC: Federal Trade Commission

GMT: Garments

BTN: Button

GSS: Garment Specification Sheet

DNS: Double Needle Stitch

MP: Man Power

NPT: Non Productive Time

PO: Production Officer

PM: Production Manager

MTO: Management Trainee Officer

DGM: Deputy General Manager

AGM: Assitant General Manager

GM: General Manage

CEO: Chief Executive Officer

CFO: Chief Financial Officer

PS: Production Sample

OE: Open End

YD/SD: Yarn Dyed/Solid Dyed

M/C: Machine

TN: Ticket Number

OCS: Open Cost Sheet

FDS: Fabric Data Sheet

TT: Telephonic Trasfer

BOE: Bill of Exchange

DA: Designated Auditor

RPM: Rotation Per Minute

EIM: Environment Impact Measuring

BCI: Better Cotton Initiative

GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard

You May Also Like:

Important Abbreviations On Textile and Garments

Important Abbreviations On Textile and Garments | Common Acronyms on Textiles

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 02 Mar 2019 06:46:00 +0000

We frequently stuck on some points when we see any acronym on textile and garments industry. Below are the most important and common acronyms for entire textile supply chain.

APEDA : Agricultural & Processed Food Products Export Development Authority, India

GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard

BCI: Better Cotton Initiative

IVN: International Association Natural Textile Industry, Germany

JOCA: Japan Organic Cotton Association, Japan

OTA: Organic Trade Association, USA

SA: Soil Association, UK

EC: European Commission

ECHA: European Chemicals Agency

ETAD: Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturing

GHS: Global Harmonized System

GLP: Good Laboratory Practice

IFOAM: International Federation of Organic Agriculture MOvements

ILO: International Labour Organization

IOAS: International Organic Accreditation Service

ISO: International Organization for Standardization

IUCN: International Union for Conservation of Nature

OECD: Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development

REACH: EC Regulation regarding Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals

USDA: United States Department of Agriculture

BS: British Standard

AQL: Acceptable Quality Level

BCIRA: British Cotton Industries Research Assiciation

AAQC: American Association of Quality Control

HVI: High Volume Instrument

BCA: Bangladesh Cotton Association

ICA: International Cotton Association

PTEA: Pakistan Textile Exporter Assciation

APTMA: All Pakistan Textile Mills Association

CFIB: China Fiber Inspection Bureau

ICAC: International Cotton Advisory Committee

SITC: Standardized Instrument for Testing Cotton

CDA: Cotton Development Administration

OCS: Organic Content Standard

TE: Textile Exchange

CB: Certification Body

IMS: Industrial Management System

KPI: Key Performance Indicator

LC: Letter of Credit

LDC: Least Development Country

TQM: Total Quality Management

EC50: Effect Concentration (50%)

LC50: Lethal Concentration (50% mortality)

AOX: Absorbable halogenated hydrocarbons and substances that can cause their formation

APEO: Alkylphenolethoxylates

BBP: Benzylbutyl Pthalate

BOD: Biological Oxygen Demand

COD: Chemical Oxygen Demand

DBT: Dibutyltin

DBP: Dibutyl phthalate

DEHP: Diethyhexyl phthalate

DPP: Diethylphthalate

DINP: Disonoyl Phthalate

GMO: Genetically Modified Organisms

PVC: Polyvinyl Chloride

DPT: Dipropyltin

You May Also Like:

Acronyms and Abbreviations of Apparel Industry

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Fri, 01 Mar 2019 19:02:00 +0000

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is globally recognized standard for organic status of whole textile supply chain that limits the use of toxic substances, dyes and other chemicals inputs during the entire production processes of textiles. It is toughest standard giving organization of textile which is comprised of 4 leading member organizations namely OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan).

It has demonstrated practical feasibility of organic textiles since it was introduced in the year 2006. GOTS ensure the organic criteria of textile supply chain from the harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in accordance with providing the credible commitments to the customer.

It is the main goal of GOTS that end customer will believe the textiles have organic status when it is labelled by GOTS. This leading standard covers the harvesting of fibers and its processing, all kind of manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all kind of textile made from certified organic fibers.

This standard appreciates to produce any textiles in an individual way without the use of chemical inputs, the approach is to define criteria for low impact and residual natural or synthetic chemicals such as dyestuff, auxiliaries and finishes. GOTS sets requirements on working and social conditions that are equivalent to those of leading social sustainability standards. As the standard is also applied and monitored for entities in countries with developed and effectively applied social and labour legislation and collective agreements between employers and trade unions that conform with the universal standards of the international labour organization (ILO).

This certificate is accepted by all major markets in the world therefore the textile processors and manufacturers are enabled to buy and sell product with organic status to those markets.

There are two types of GOTS status as below-

A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres.

Assesment of Chemical inputs: All chemical inputs intended to be used to process GOTS goods are subjected to approval by a GOTS approved certifier ahead of thei usage. The following table lists chemical inputs that may be potentially used in conventional textile processing but that are explicitly prohibitted or retricted for environmental and toxicological reasons in all processing stages of GOTS labelled products.

Textile Fibers: GOTS accept the certification of fiber that claims organic status from IFOAM,USDA, National Organic Program (NOP), APEDA's National Program for Organic Production (NPOP), China Organic Standard GB/T19630. The certification body must have a valid and recognized accreditation for the standard it certifies against. Recognised accreditation are ISO 17065 accreditation, NOP accreditation, IFOAM accreditation and IFOAM Global Organic System accreditation.

Fiber Spinning: Yarn manufacturing by spinning allo the additives which meet the basic requirements as set by GOTS with the indication of prohibited chemical/processing involves. Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value of residual oil of 0.5%.

Sizing and Weaving/Knitting: Here allowed sizing agents are all natural base as synthetic sizing materials are restricted with the exception of some special products. Allowed sizing materials include starch and its derivatives, other natural substances and CMC (Carboxy methyle Cellulose).

In case of any synthetic size materials can be used for no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only.

Knitting/weaving oils must not contain heavy metals, other inputs must be derived from natural source only.

Non Woven Manufacturing: Allowed non-woven manufacturing processing includes only mechanical compaction, webbing and entangling such as hydro entanglement.

Pre-treatments and other wet processing stages: The chemicals inputs must meet the basic requirements sets by GOTS and must avoid prohibited or restricted chemicals. Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.

Ammonia Treatment - Prohibited
Bleaches - Only oxygen base bleaches are allowed such as peroxides, ozone etc.
Washing - Detergents must not contain phosphates
Chlorination of Wools - Prohibited
Desizing - Allowed are GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) free enzymatic desizing and other auxiliaries.
Mechanical/Thermal Treatments - Allowed
Mercerizatin - Alkali must be recycled.

Dyeing/Printing: Selection of dyes and auxiliaries are restricted by GOTS. Allowed are natural dyes, synthetic dyes, pigments and auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements set BY GOTS. Dyes that are prone to allergic are prohibited such as disperse dye. Dyes containing heavy metals are prohibited. Some specific except for copper that permits up to 5% per weight in blue, green and turquoise dyestuff.

Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited. Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited

Additional Fiber Materials(Max 5% for organic label and 30% for made with organic label):

Conventional natural fibers except conventional cotton and angora hair.
Regenerated fibers from certified organic raw materials which are non - GMO.
Regenerated fibers like viscose or modal
Recycled synthetic fibers from pre or post consumer waste.
Virgin synthetic or polymer fibers
Stainless steel fibers and minerla fibers with exception of asbestos, carbon and silver fibers

Trims and Accessories: For any kind of trims or accessories allowed are natural materials including biotic material such as natural fiber, wood, leather, horn, bone, shell and non biotic material such as minerals, metals, stone. Also regenerated and synthetic materials are allowed in some cases.

Effluent Treatment Plant(ETP): Wastewater from all wet processing units must be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before discharging to environment. The applicable national and local legal requirements for waste water treatment including limit values with regard to pH, temperature, TOC< BOD, CODm color removal, residues of pollutans and discharge routes must be fulfilled. The treated water must not exceed 20gm COD/g of processed textile.

Storage, Packaging and Transport: Organic textile products must be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination by prohibited substances with conventional products of substitution of the contents. Packaging material must not contain chlorinated plastics . e.g. PVC.

Social Criteria:

Employment should be freely chosen
Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected
No Child labour
No discrimination
Working conditions are to be safe and hygienic
Fair remuneration
Working hours are not excessive
No Precarious employment is provided
Harsh or inhumane behaviour is prohibited
Social compliance management
Ethical business behaviour

Quality Assurance system:

GOTS certification needs at least an annual turnover of GOTS labelled product equal or more than 5000 euro.It contains on site inspection process that however be performed at least for the first year and every 3rd year of granted certification. To apply for the certifcation you can visit GOTS website.

You May Also Like:

Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard

Points to be Considered Selecting Perfect Bra Size | Different Types of Bra in 2019

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 18:33:00 +0000

Selection of perfect fit and size of Bra is very important for a woman as a perfect Bra helps to crease confidence of a lady. There are various kinds of Bra available in the market with unique design and style.

The distinctive design and styles puzzle the woman in case of selecting right size of bra. In terms of price differences Bras are made of various kind of fabric and materials. To enhance the beauty of the product some trimmings are often used in Bra making such as lace. To identify a perfect bra it could be pretty challenging and also the selected one should be comfortable also.Woman often complains that they are not sometimes able to find out right Bra with comfort and good fitting.

To measure a perfect Bra size you should have known about your band and bust size. Below are the important points of measure that is important when Bras are designed and confirm the measurement list based on live model or dummy.

Size of Band
Size of Straps and its position
Size of Cups
Position of Center Gore
Position of Underwire

Image: Typical Technical Package wit h specification of a Bra

Image: Important Look and Measurement of Right Size of Bra

Points to be consider choosing a Bra:

Incorrect size of Bra: A bra that is too tight or too loose is called incorrect size Bra. Neither small nor oversized bras will fit you well. Therefore you must know your measurement and size that fits you well. A wrong size of bra may cause to back pain, irritate your skin and also to be uncomfortable.

Incorrect Band Size: Band size is very important to chose a bra. You can test your bra band size in the way in your fingers after wear it at back, it the fingers could find their way in then you have to buy a smaller size band. Because of ill fitted band size your bra will lose its grip and might not give perfect lift and support.

Last hook theory: Bras can be stretched out about 3 inches after random ussage. So it is important to shift to the next pair of hooks at back. So while buying a Bra it should the fit at that time from the last or the outermost hood instead of the first ones.

Here are best and popular style of Bras that are suit for almost all women:

Textile and Garments Exhibitions in Bangladesh in 2019 | All Exhibition Schedule and Update

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 17:01:00 +0000

Being the second largest RMG exporter in the world Bangladesh hosts some significant trade fair and exhibition targeting entire Textile sector. This year 2019, Bangladesh is hosting many of the exhibition and expo around the whole year. Below are the listed Exhibitions and Expo that are scheduled to be held in Bangladesh in 2019.

Bangladesh Denim Expo: It is being hosted by the Managing Director of Bangladesh Denim Expert Ltd. Mr. Mostafiz Uddin.

Event : Bangladesh Denim Expo-10th Edition

Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka
Date: 2-3 May, 2019

International Garment and Textile Machinery Exhibition (GarTex): This exhibition is being arranged and hosted by BEOG & WIOA(Workforce Innovation and Opportunity Act).

Event : International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition
Edition: 5th
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh
Date: 27-29 June, 2019

TexTech Bangladesh International Expo: This event is being organized by CEMS-Global USA's International that presents some Textech series of Exhibition.

Event:     20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo
Venue:     International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh
Date:     4~7 September, 2019

Dhaka International Yarn & Fabric Show: Every year the mother company CEMS Global arranges this exhibition in Bangladesh and some other countries.

Event: 16th Dhaka International Yarn & Fabric Show 2019
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh

Date: 4~7 September, 2019

Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Machinery Expo: This event (BIGTEX) is being organized by RedCarpet365 Ltd. as 5th edition.

Event : Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Machinery Expo
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh
Date: 7-10 November, 2019

Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Machinery Expo, 2019

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 16 Feb 2019 16:38:00 +0000

Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Machinery Expo (BIGTEX) is being organized by RedCarpet365 Ltd. as 5th edition on 07-10th November, 2019 at International Convention City Bashundhara-ICCB, Dhaka. World wide exhibitors on Garment and Textile Machinery, Equipment, Technology & Accessories will participate in this event. This is one of the mega exhibition in Bangladesh due to the high interest of buyers and sellers from Home and Abroad. Following the huge response on previous editions this year the organizers are expecting more number of exhibitors and visitors to be participated in this up coming event.

Targeting the whole Textile, Garment & Apparel industry of Bangladesh, BIGTEX have 3 concurrent expos named as 5th Bangladesh Int’l Fabric & Yarn Expo, 5th Bangladesh Int’l Print, Pack & Sign Expo and 5th Bangladesh Int’l Dyes, Pigments and Chemicals Expo.

Being the second largest apparel exporter in the world, top denim exporter to EU and world's 2nd largest knitwear exporter, Bangladesh Garment & Textile Industry have to face lot of competitions with close competing countries like India, Vietnam, Cambodia & Sri Lanka. Keeping in concern the High Demand of “Made in Bangladesh” products, we have to keep this growth in continuation basis and need proper Machinery, Raw Materials, Yarn, Fabric, Dyes & Chemicals supplies at Best Price.

Bangladeshi entrepreneurs can grab the opportunity to source their required machinery tools from the exhibition. This is a very good platform for the suppliers of machinery and manufacturers of garments and textile to be understood the recent market trend. This event is supported by BKMEA and powered by Well Thread, a company that delivers good quality threads to the garment industry in Bangladesh.

Event Summary:

Event : Bangladesh International Garment & Textile Machinery Expo
Edition: 5th
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
Date: 7-10 November, 2019
Time: 10am - 7pm
Visitors: Business and Trade Visitors
Organized By: RedCarpet365 Ltd
Official Web: http://www.redcarpet365.com/bigtex.html

You May Also Like:

Bangladesh Denim Expo - 10th Edition in May, 2019

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Fri, 15 Feb 2019 18:48:00 +0000

Bangladesh Denim Expo is doing outstanding in terms of showcases of denim innovations and new editions of denim in Bangladesh every Year. Each year it is organized twice by the Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd. Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, who is very passionate to enhance and accelerate the denim trade in Bangladesh. His utmost effort to make the event successful is really praiseworthy. Bangladesh Denim Expo has become a big news for the local and internal media in the business category.

Bangladesh is the second largest garment exporter and number one denim or jeans exporter to EU market. According to a report published last year that at least one person among eight Americans wear Bangladeshi jeans. Apparently, this sector has been grown very well in Bangladesh. More than 30 denim mills have been established in Bangladesh to support and reduce the demand of exported denim fabric from other countries.

Approximately, every year about 90 million pieces of denims are being produced and exported across the world from Bangladesh. Keeping in mind the high level of customer demand Bangladeshi entrepreneurs are highly interested to establish denim manufacturing facility that can boost the market share of denim export in the world.

This year the exhibition is being organized as Bangladesh Denim Expo, 10th Edition on 2-3 May, 2019. As a non-profit exercise, the Expo’s objective is to showcase Bangladesh’s growth potential in the denim industry. To strengthen the social and economic growth of Bangladesh people need to live out of poverty where denim production in Bangladesh plays a vital role as more than 70% workforce for it are women from the countryside.

Most of the manufacturing facilities of Denim are established outskirt of Dhaka, Gazipur N.ganj and Chattagram city, so it's easy for both the buyers and manufacturers to communicate and grow their business relationship through visiting the premises.

While delivering strong commercial opportunities, the Bangladesh Denim Expo operates from a platform of responsibility. The show has the spirit of a collective, with like-minded denim players from around the world bringing to life a new vision.

Bangladesh became the first choice of low to high quality denim production by the customers due to the original worn in look with good quality sewing.

Current world is seeking the most effective way to gain sustainable denim platform and Bangladesh received the main focus for the same. Sustainability in denim production is a common goal to both customers and manufacturers to ensure a green world in the future. Innovations and methods that are going to be successful to make the denim sustainable are one of the main topic of discussion part that runs in each show of Denim Expo.

Like Exhibitors, some wash experts from both local and abroad share their expertise views and knowledge's in the panel discussion part of Denim Expo. It becomes a very good gathering point for the local and foreign employees to meet and get ideas.

It is a one roof platform for the denim fabric and garment manufacturers. People, who are engaged in denim are highly interested to this event and waited every year to gather and meet with their ex colleagues and well wishers. Denim Fabric mills from local and abroad participate with high interest and get responses from respective customers.

Event Summary:

Event : Bangladesh Denim Expo
Edition: 10th
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
Date: 2-3 May, 2019
Time: 10am - 7pm
Expected number Of Exhibitors: 60-80
Visitors: Business and Trade Visitors related to Denim
Official Web: http://www.bangladeshdenimexpo.com

You May Also Like:

20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo

16th Dhaka International Yarn and Fabric Show 2019

International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition in Bangladesh 2019

International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition in Bangladesh 2019

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Thu, 14 Feb 2019 17:29:00 +0000

Bangladesh is the most attractive country to the investor and buyers because of it's growing economy. World wide textile and RMG players are taking more initiative in their investment planning that shows a clear sign of wonderful potential of the country's clothing industry due to big domestic and overseas market. For the businesses of garment base technology, machinery, spare parts, and services to the garments and textile industry, this is the most potential opportunity as one roof platform for the buyers and sellers.

The local entrepreneurs of Bangladesh are highly optimistic about the growth as this sector has received tremendous success in RMG manufacturing and exporting over the one decade. Today the apparel export sector is a multi-billion-dollar manufacturing and export industry in the country.

The overall impact of the ready made garment exports is certainly one of the most significant social and economic developments in modern Bangladesh.Now Bangladesh stands 87% export value from whole textile and garments industry.

The back to back linkage of this garments are also playing significant role for growing the economy. Because of the recent development in compliance with the intervention of ACCORD and Alliance the exporters have been able to attract buyers to increase their business thus the other suppliers are getting benefits of it.

Keeping in mind about the demand of the customer the machinery and small parts supplier for Garment and Textile industry is giving extra eyes in Bangladesh. International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition of Bangladesh is being arranged by the BEOG & WIOA(Workforce Innovation and Opportunity Act) as their 5th edition. Simply, the GarTex is being arranged with a vast range of available and modern machinery. After four successful edition of this exhibition the fifth one is being arranged with a high exception of exhibitors and visitors.

Event : International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition
Edition: 5th
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
Date: 27-29 June, 2019
Time: 10am - 7pm
Expected number Of Booths: 160
Visitors: Business and Trade Visitors
Official Web: http://www.limraexpo.com/gartex/index.php

You May Also Like:

16th Dhaka International Yarn and Fabric Show 2019 | 16th DIFS 2019

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Tue, 12 Feb 2019 17:09:00 +0000

CEMS-Global USA's International has been arranging the show as 16th Dhaka International Yarn and Fabric Show 2019. After the successful exhibition of 15th edition now it has been scheduled to represent 16th DIFS 2019. Every year the mother company CEMS Global arranges the exhibition in Bangladesh, Barzil and Sri Lanka. On Yarn and fabric industry this is the oldest and biggest series of Exhibition in Bangladesh.

Since Bangladesh is the second largest ready made garment (RMG) exporter across the world the suppliers and retailers have great attention on it. The initial sector runs through yarn and fabric manufacturing then dyeing and garment making respectively so these are the backbone of clothing industries because it provides the backward linkage for the both woven and knit sector. This sector delivers the yarn and fabrics to the garment industry so they can be treated as primary raw materials for the RMG sector.

DIFS is A comprehensive exhibition for overseas yarn, fabric and textile manufacturers. It is also targeted to the whole textile sector of Bangladesh. It draws a vast amount of visitors from the textile and RMG sector of Bangladesh because of that the buyer and seller can meet up one point and exchange their views.

Strengths of Bangladesh spinning sector:

(a) Competitive workforce- skilled manpower available at a lower cost.

(b) Bangladesh spinning factories mostly possess high-tech sophisticated machinery from Europe, Japan, and the US.

(c) Courageousness and resilience of local entrepreneur.

(d) Strong export-oriented RMG sector- can supply yarn to the factories very fast; can provide great after sales services.

(e) Sufficient demand for woven and knit yarn.

(f) FDI (foreign direct investment) is legally permitted.

(g) In-house demand is increasing every year- demand for yarn for the locally sold clothing items are also potentially increasing.

Opportunities for Bangladesh spinning sector:

(a) The possibility of producing high value diversified yarn.

(b) Yarn export possibility creation by means of diversified yarn production and exploring new market opportunities.

(c) Now a day, investors come forward to the research and development sector that causes the possibility of increasing economic social and environmental sustainability of the companies.

(d) Quality cotton production that decreases the dependency to the overseas for quality cotton.

(e) The opportunity of low-grade value-added product production because other competing countries are falling back from this sector.

Event: 16th Dhaka International Yarn & Fabric Show 2019
Detail: The Leading International Exhibition on International Yarn & Fabric Manufacturers & Suppliers focused to the entire US$ 32 Billion Textile & Apparel Export Industry of Bangladesh
Date: 4~7 September, 2019
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
Opening Hours: 10.30 am to 7.30 pm
Open to: Business / Trade Visitors
Organizer: CEMS-Global USA in Association with CEMS Bangladesh
Cooperated by: CEMS India, CEMS Lanka, CEMS Brazil
Expected number Of Booths: 200
Standard Booth Size: Minimum 6 sqm
Official Website: https://bd.cems-yarnandfabric.com

You Can Also Like:

20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo

20th Textech Bangladesh International Expo 2019 | Texch Bangladesh Expo

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Tue, 12 Feb 2019 16:31:00 +0000

This event is being organized by CEMS-Global USA's International that presents some Textech series of Exhibition. In South and South East Asia, all of their series exhibitions have reached it's accession in popularity. For the last 19 years Textech Bangladesh has been serving the Textile and Garments sector of Bangladesh. Now it is going to represent "20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo".

Like other years Textech will be a great back to back platform and provide networking opportunity for Textile and Garment machinery manufacturers that helps to interact physically with the Textile and Garment manufacturers. It is a kind of one stop solution to the visitors and platform for the exhibitors to work directly with the buyers or importers.

It's like a perfect buyer - seller meet up point and a strong under one roof marketplace for the over growing Textile and Garment Industry in BD. Bangladesh worth $32 billion export value on Textile and Garment sector in 2019 that attracts by the leading suppliers of the machinery.

With the focus of export value to be reached $50 billion by the year 2021, Bangladeshi Textile and Garment manufacturers are aggressively sourcing and enhancing the manufacturing facilities where this leading international exhibition plays a vital role.

“Textech”, has created a brand in South & South-East Asia, especially in Bangladesh, as the biggest expo for the entire Textile & Garment Industry of Bangladesh and has seen incredible growth in terms of exhibitors as well as potential visitors from the Industry than any other expo ever held in Bangladesh and is the oldest & first Textile & Garment Machinery expo of Bangladesh.

The visitors are from entire Textile sector so a colossal amount of them are expected to every year. But the major focus on the visitors are of Top Executives, CEO's, Operation Head/GM, Managers from textile and garment industry.

Machinery from spinning, winding, weaving and knitting, non woven and felting, dyeing, braiding and Embroidery, industrial garment making machines for sewing, cutting and pattern making, accessories producing machines will be exhibited in the expo.

Event: 20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo
Detail: Serving the Textile & Apparel sector of Bangladesh for the last 20 years – Bangladesh’s’ biggest & oldest International Exhibition on Textile Apparel Technology, Machinery & Related Services
Theme: Your gateway to theTextile Garment Industry of Bangladesh
Date: 4~7 September, 2019
Location: Dhaka-Bangladesh
Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
Opening Hours: 10.30 am to 7.30 pm
Frequency: Annual
Open to: Business / Trade Visitors
Organizer: CEMS-Global USA in Association with CEMS Bangladesh
Cooperated by: CEMS India, CEMS Lanka, CEMS Brazil
Expected number Of Booths: 900
Standard Booth Size: 6 sqm , 9 sqm
Official Website: https://bd.cems-textech.com/

You Can Also Like:

16th Dhaka International Yarn and Fabric Show 2019

Parts of Garments Sewing Machines | Function of Clothing Sewing Machines

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sun, 10 Feb 2019 06:27:00 +0000

To sew apparels sewing machines are must that is used to stitch fabric and other materials together with the thread. Industrial sewing machines were invented during the first industrial revolution to minimize the human effort and save time in the year 1790 by Thomas Saint. After the invention it has become the most useful element of garment industry and now various types of them are already launched in commercial market. To get rid of human hand stitching sewing machine was invented though now it has become automated. It has given better efficiency and productivity to the manufacturing industries. Some China, Japan or Korean company have launched various types of sewing machine and it's further development is still on process. In each year we are being known to some new features of this machine, but still we need to know about the basic elements of a sewing machine and their function.

Different Parts of A Sewing Machine:

Image: Sewing machine and it's different parts

Foot Pedal:

It is a common element of sewing machine that controls the relatve speed of the machine depends on the force applied on it. For any high speed modern sewing machine speed can be adjusted by a push up button thus foot pedal is not the functional one for them.

Image: Foot Pedal

Power Cord and Switch:

Now a days industrial sewing machines are run by electrical power so to get constant supplier of electricity power cord is to be set with the machine precisely. There is a on or off switch button to function it.

Image: Power cord and switch

Hand Wheel:

It controls the movement of sewing needle as it used to lift up and down the need as per requirement to place the fabric cut panels beneath the tip. There is a clutch knob inside the wheel which acts as a safety measure of it and helps to avoid the needle from jabbing up and down during bobbin winding

Image: Hand Wheel

Reverse Lever:

In a sewing machine it is placed at the front of it and is used to give secure stitch at the end of any stitch. Sometimes we call this operation as tack of the stitch.

Image: Reverse Lever

Spool Pin and Holder:

Function of this pin is to hold the cone/any other package of sewing thread. Besides, it helps to control the thread direction and tension while it goes under operation of sewing.

Image: Spool pin and holder

Bobbin Winder:

Before placing the bobbin into case it is filled up with threads and the function is done through a bobbin winder.An empty bobbin can wind at less than one minute by a winder. It is usually placed at right top corner of the machine.

Image: Bobbin Winder

Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Adjustment:

It functions to select the type of the stitch to be given on the fabric. Like straight lock stitch, zigzag stitch it helps to control the stitch length thus SPI is controlled. It depends on the machine that how much variation can be done to sew any garment.

Length determiners is sit beside the pattern selector and it determines the length of the stitch. The length range is about to 0-4 where 0 is the shortest stitch and 4 is the longest one. This adjustment takes place at the feed dog.

Image: Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Adjuster

Tension Disc:

Tension tension determines the looseness or firmness of the given stitch where tension disc controls the pressure applied to the thread for uniform feed to the machine needle. The basic funcsions of this device is -

Correct placement of the thread to the needle
Regulate the flow of the thread
Execute the stitching operation smoothly
Ensure the thread passage properly

There are of two different types device as direct tension device and indirect tension device. In high speed modern sewing machine, the tension dial with numbers graduated on it is used for varying the tension. The higher the number the greater the tension and vice versa. To get straight seam line tension needs to be adjusted correctly.

Image: Tension Disc

Needle and Needle Clamp:

The needle fits into the needle bar that holds it in place with a small screw. The clamp is really required to fix up the needle in correct place.

Image: Needle and Needle Clamp

Take up Lever:

This lever moves up and down direction during the stitch formation to give the supply of thread while the loop is formed and taken back the needle thread after each stitching to set the stitch. Thread tension is also maintained at optimum level by this lever.

Image: Take Up Lever

Presser Foot:

The pressure foot is very important element to perform the stitch. It helps to grab the fabric and place to the feed dog, thus the feed dog moves the fabric through out the machine. A downward pressure is applied by this device on the material.

Image: Presser Foot

Presser Dial:

The presser dial determines the amount of pressure to be applied on the fabric by the presser foot. The most light weight fabric needs maximum amount of presser to control the fabric in better way and thus vice versa.

Image: Presser Dial

Presser Foot Lever:

Functionally presser foot lever moves up and down to engage and disengage the presser foot on to the fabric respectively

Image: Presser Foot Lever

Feed Dog:

This is the another most important part of sewing machine which looks like teeth that function in combination with the presser foot to move forward the fabric after performing one stitch. SPI is also be set that is regulated by the feed dog.

Image: Feed Dog

Face Plate:

It is just a cover that conceals all the internal working elements of the machine.

Image: Face Plate

Throat Plate:

It's the upper part that covers the bobbin and the feed dog so that whole of the elect does not see from out side. It contains some slot for the feed dog and there is a hole to pass through the need to catch the bobbin thread.

Image: Throat plate

Bobbin Case:

The bobbins are set into the bobbin case manually and then set it with the machine. This is placed under the needle plate and usually has a piece of plastic that flips up tot cover the bobbin case when sewing is not performed.

Image: Bobbin Case

Bobbin:

A small package that is winded to carry out the sewing thread and is fitted into the bobbin case. Bobbin winder is used to filled it up and thread is evenly distributed while stitching is performed.

Image: Bobbin

You Can Also Like:

Garments Quality Checkig in Production | Check list of Garments Quality

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Fri, 08 Feb 2019 18:32:00 +0000

Quality means customer demands to be met. Any failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can be therefore be unsuccessful. Cost is involved to maintain an required standard of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced just right after in house fabric and all other materials in a production facility. It also can define as quality control that starts from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished goods. For whole textile industry quality of the product is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fiber, yarns, fabric construction, color or shade matching, color fastness, design and the appearance or look of final finished garments. Also the quality standards depend on the type of the customer segments and the retail outlets.

The ultimate customer of a garment look at the quality and appearance of the product at first place. Thus, to satisfy customer needs quality standard must be followed. Supplier can't produce and ship out garments according to their own wish as according to the purchase agreement, buyer can penalize supplier for delivering any defective garments.Buyer lost their faith on supplier if they do the things. Therefore it's suppliers responsibility to take care of whole production and ensure quality goods.Most of the cases, respective buying QC conducts the final inspection before delivering the goods. Whatever defects found in the final inspection, it is the result and cumulative figure of previous processes. Thus, it is very important to rectify defective garments before offering any final inspection.

Reason of producing defective garments:
There are lot of people and machines are involved in producing any garment. So there is an absolute scope of producing defective garments because of incorrect machine operation or handling of human. But, still the manufacturers have opportunity to rectify the faulty pieces though it is costly and time consuming. To make the garment production efficient maintaining good quality the checking points and methods must be followed.

The Major quality measuring points:

Fabric Store:
Fabrics are inspected fully or partially according to the international fabric inspection methods. Before issuing fabric to the cutting unit inspection is completed. Since it is the main raw material of a garment, no manufacturer compromise to check and ensure the quality.In most of the cases 10% fabrics are checked whereas for power loom and printed fabric almost 100% fabrics are checked.Among all the methods 4 point system is popular and mostly used.

Common check list of this section-

Fabric roll to roll shade check.
Fabric GSM check.
Fabric color mistake check.
Yarn contamination or foreign yarn Check.
Selvedge or running shade check for solid dyed fabric
Fabric blanket check after washing in case of woven and denim garments.
Fabric width check with the PI
Make shade range and get confirmation from buyer agents

Cutting Section:
Commonly cutting is the heart of bulk production. To avoid defects fabric needs to be cut precisely.

Quality check list of this section-

Double check the pattern and the marker
Check the knife of the cutter before starting cutting
Fabric lay check
Cut panel check
Size mistake check
Mixed shade check at cut panel and replace it

Trims and Accessories check:

It is very important to check the quality of trims as well because for a small item whole garment might be rejected. If there is any incorrect items and missing items found in checking then corrective steps can be taken immediately.

The check list for this section -

Approved trims card check and confirm.
Main, Size & Care Label Check.
Care symbol check based on tech pack
Thread color, count and quality check.
All kinds of hang tag & price ticket heck.

Sewing Section:
Quality checking in sewing section starts through size set sample making. With correct size set manufacturers and buying QC together conduct the PP meeting before starting bulk production. During PPM, samples are checked with buyer approved PP sample or counter sample. Major mistakes and quality concern are highlighted in the meeting so that bulk goods satisfy the buyer standard. PP meeting is so important as before sewing whatever corrective action plan can be taken otherwise whole production will be rejected or subjected to have rectification.

Then quality is checked in pilot run garments or trial cut garments to ensure whatever findings were in size set that are corrected now. Then inline inspection is done based on buyers AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit). Each sewing line one quality check point is present where assembled garments are taken for checking by factory quality checker or GPQ (Guideline for Production and Quality). Also in assembly line check points are kept for the critical operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially or fully stitched garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the subsequent process.

The major check points of this section are:

Approved PP/counter sample & measurement sheet check, also check the final comments from buyer.
Sample wise input check.
Approved trims card check.
Styling check based on approved sample
All machine thread tension check.
Print & Embroidery placement check.
All process measurement check.
All machine oil spot check.
All process SPI (Stitch Per Inch) check as per customer demand
Part shading, bundle mistake & size mistake check.
Need to balance the sewing tension precisely
Front part, back part, sleeve & thread shading check.
SPI check for all process.
Main, size and care label check.
All process alter check.

Print/Embroidery Check:
These are not compulsory process for all styles but where it is required must be checked before forwarding them to next process. If printing is done in fabric mill then it is checked by store and if printing is done on cut panel then it is checked before sewing. For knit garments, mostly printing is done on cut panels. So before issuing cutting to sewing department each panel should be checked properly. If any defect is found on cut panel then it must be replaced by new one but it must be kept in mind that replaced cut panels shade should be identical to the other portion of that garment.

Like printing, embroidery is also checked and ensure 100% correct panels are being forwarded to next process.

The Check lists are-

Approved sample or artwork wise bulk garment print & embroidery design check.
Size wise approved pattern and placement check.
Print design, color & quality check.
Bundle & size wise print/embroidery check.

Finishing Section:

At finished garments quality is checked before packing. If all the previous check point works properly then quality goods will come in finishing section. Some processes are involed in finishing like button attachment, Hang Tag, Waist Card or other accessories attachemnt so the quality check point in this section should be strong. Before forwarding the garments for packing they go through ironing.

Here, initial finishing inspection, pre-final inspection and final inspection are conducted after finishing and packing the goods. All inspections are conducted by buying QC or assigned designated person of respective factory.

Below are the check lists of this section-

Full styling check once again based on approved sample
All garments shade check before starting finishing
Print/Embroider and other sewing trims check
All process stitching quality check
Keep separately if there is any dirty or oil spotted garment
All label and finishing accessories attachment and quality check
Reject the pieces containing too much frying at inside of garments because of faulty over lock machine operation
Remove flying dust, hairiness and uncut threads from the surface of the garment
All points measurement check properly
Check the manual before attaching hang tags and fold the garments
Pack the garments based on customer demand as it may be single or blister pack
Do cartooning carefully and keep them for final inspection

You Can Also Like:

Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT) Job Circular | Lecturer Job

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Fri, 03 Aug 2018 19:09:00 +0000

Bangladesh University of Business and Technology also known as BUBT is a UGC approved private university in Bangladesh. It is one of the eight private universities to receive the green signal from the government. It is located at Mirpur, Dhaka, Bangladesh. The university was established under the Private University Act 1992 and now BUBT is regulated by the Bangladesh University Grants Commission (UGC).

BUBT has recently published job circular 2018 for different position seeking the faculty members. The eligible candidates are requested to apply in order to the instruction given in the circular.

Textile Engineering Department is a well established department in BUBT. This department has asked application for the position of Assistant Professor and Lecturer from the eligible candidate. Candidates mush have the degree in Textile Engineering from reputed university with good CGPA.

Lecturer and Assistant Professor job for Textile Engineering of BUBUT has been published in The dailystart.net and in the official website of BUBT as on bubt.edu.bd and in also in the textileaid.blogspot.com.

Please see below brief details of the job circular at a glance -

Organization Name:Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT)

Position: Different Position, please see details in job circular image.

Job Publication Date: 01st of August, 2018

Online Application Start Date: 01st of August, 2018

Online Application End Date: 30 August, 2018

Salary: As per university rules

Number of Vacancies: please see details in job circular image.

Educational Requirements: See details in job circular image

Experience Requirements: See details in job circular image

Job Types: Private

Job category: Full time.

Job location: BUBT

Jobs Source: Official website of BUBT

Application Process: Hard Copy

Image of the Job Circular: (Click on the image to make it larger).

EcoVero™ Fiber The Alternative to Viscose is a Sustainable Innovation

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Mon, 02 Jul 2018 18:41:00 +0000

Textile resources are becoming scarce such as cotton but it has materials that can be resourced and there are also other petroleum based fibers such as acrylic, nylon, polyester or spandex but the production of them are irreversible damage to our environment, therefore many more companies are seeking an alternative to make sustainable fiber and fabrics.

Considering sustainability and rising of consumer awareness regarding environmental impact Lenzing has invented a new fiber EcoVero™ which is a alternative to Viscose fiber. Lenzing, a company with its headquarter in Austria is considering this new innovation as a milestone in Lenzing's sustainability journey by offering Eco-friendly viscose with the lowest environmental impact in the industry that is setting the new standard with wide benchmark in the sustainability of viscose fibers.

Viscose which is widely known as Viscose Rayon are used to make soft, silky and luxurious feeling fabric. The material wood are processed to make pulp that are purified cellulose which are often compared with silk and cotton. Though production of viscose are from natural source but they are chemically modified which is known as semi-synthetic.

Generally the timber are used to make the wooden pulp stems from irrigation-intensive mono cultures, which negatively impact the earth. Consumption of highly toxic chemicals, such as carbon disulfide(CS2) are used during the production of viscose rayon which has led to a number of worker poisonings. Apart this, shipping the cellulose-based semi synthetic fibers around the world also increase the level of carbon di-oxide(CO2) emissions, making it a fiber that is harmful to environment.

EcoVero™, the innovative and improved sustainable alternative fiber to viscose rayon.

Being produced by Lenzing, EcoVero™ is made using wood that comes from sustainable forestry plantations are certified by industry-leading associations such as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes) in Europe. To produce Viscose, bamboo or eucalyptus are commonly used but in EcoVero™ more than 60 percent of the trees used to produced EcoVero™ fibers come from Austria and Bavaria to ensure lower emissions.

Launching EcoVero™ fibers by Lenzing that set a new industry standard in sustainable viscose based on three main points-

The use of sustainable wood sources (FSC® or PEFC® certified),
An ecological production process (significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose),
Full supply chain transparency by identifying EcoVero™ fibers in the final product.

This cellulose fiber is produced with a new, innovative environmental process that has significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose. Almost all the chemicals used during the production of Ecovero are reusable. In comparison with viscose production, the Ecovero causes 50% less emissions and takes up half as much energy and water with its pulp bleaching being 100% chlorine-free.

Well known retailers are teaming up with Lenzing to advance their sustainability strategies with traceable Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers. The brands have already taken initiative to introduce EcoVero™ to their collection are listed below-

Gina Tricot, a Scandinavian retailer.
Lindex, Retailer of Sweden
Armedangels, The German brand

Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Tue, 26 Jun 2018 19:39:00 +0000

Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
Superb hand feel can be achieved
High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
The brightness and luster are increased

Garments Costing With Example | Practical Method of Garments Costing | Overview of Woven Jacket Costing

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 23 Jun 2018 11:25:00 +0000

Article is Written By
Fazlay Rabby James
Merchandiser
FCI BD Ltd.

We are here to share an example of making cost sheet where a linned jacket has been considered.

Below is an example of the Garment Specification sheet or Tech Pack (Technical Package):

Step 1: At first we have to collect FDS for shell fabric & trims fabric. Let us consider all shell fabric & trims fabric price in one sheet as bellow.

Step 2: Now we have to send mini marker request to CAD department of your factory for consumption of all shell fabric & trim fabric. Then we have to send design pack with all shell fabric & trim fabric cut able width. In return CAD departments will send us mini marker (consumption) for all fabric and trims fabric. Sometimes it may call YY (yield yardage).

Example of a mini marker

The style we are taking for experiment, here we will get total 9 mini marker from CAD department as bellow.
1.    Shell Fabric
2.    Body Lining
3.    Sleeve Lining
4.    Piping
5.    Inside Pocket + Pocket Envelop (since both are same quality; 210T Taffeta Black, so two parts will be integrated in one marker)
6.    Knit Fusing
7.    Paper Fusing
8.    Thread Fusing

Let us consider consumption is as bellow for per pcs garments.
1.    Shell Fabric---------2.2 yds
2.    Body Lining--------1.3 yds
3.    Sleeve Lining-----0.90 yds
4.    Piping-------------0.12 yds
5.    Inside Pocket + Pocket Envelop----0.06yds
6.    Knit Fusing-----0.65yds
7.    Paper Fusing—1.10yds
8.    Thread Fusing-0.17 yds

Step 3:
We have to send the tech pack to our IE department’s concern engineer to calculate SMV.
Let us consider garments SMV is coming 65 minutes.

Also let us consider factory standard CPM is nearer to 0.07 so our target CM will be about 4.55 (65X0.07=4.55). Here I have calculated CM putting a formula which is mainly depends of factory standard. Also sometimes it is not possible to consider accurate & market competitive CM as per factory standard. In that case merchant need to use his experience to offer perfect CM to grab the business also keeping company profit.

Step 4:

We have to collect label, button, carton, thread etc. trims price from respective supplier. Let us consider trims price is as below

Main Label—$0.05/pcs
Size Label--$0.02/pcs
Care Label-$0.03/pcs
Hang Tag-$0.05/pcs
Thread-$1.5/cone (Let us consider thread consumption is 0.2 cone/pcs garments.
Poly-$0.10/pcs
Carton-$1.50/ pcs (Let us consider 5 pcs garments can be packed in one pcs carton so carton consumption will be 1/5)
Gum tape-$0.50/pcs (Let us consider 15 pcs carton can be packed by one pcs gumtape so gum tape consumption for per pcs garments will be 1/(5X15))
Button-0.05/pcs
Carton Sticker-$0.10/ pcs (Let us consider 5 pcs garments can be packed in one pcs carton so carton sticker consumption will be 1/5)

Step 5:
Already we have got all shell fabric & trims fabric price in FDS, now we can make cost sheet following above prices.

Though here profit is showing $0.82 if it is accepted by buyer but net profit will be higher than this. All factories have minimum profit limit to grab orders so this philosophy is different for respective factories.

Retail Price: The selling price of product in shop is the retail price of the product. Buyer purchase the garments from factory in FOB price. But they also sell the garments in shop considering all cost involved in taking orders to store including company management cost with margin or profit. Depending upon customer and quality of product the retail prices become three to ten times than FOB price.

Garments Costing Procedure | Woven Garment Costing | Different Terms of Costing

firoztx@yahoo.com (Unknown) — Sat, 23 Jun 2018 07:51:00 +0000

Article is Written By
Fazlay Rabby James
Merchandiser
FCI BD Ltd.

Costing: Costing is a very familiar word in Garments Industry and can be said as a heart of merchandising. It is also known as Cost sheet, Budget Sheet, BOM (Bill of Material) etc. Actually costing is nothing but a summation of different components price of a garments. But in garments industry especially for beginners costing is considered as very difficult task to learn. This article will give a brief idea about costing through which a beginner can easily understand how to calculate the garments price.

Below is a very common used table to do costing of a garments. Generally costing need to do in Microsoft Excel as to calculate the price of a garment some formulations are required. Before going through the costing procedure if we give an eye on below table then we will get a fair idea about costing format.

In above chart there is some sub category to understand a costing more easily. The aim of costing is to calculate FOB (Freight on Board/Free On Board) price of a garment as buyer buys a garment from a garment manufacturer by this FOB price.

Already I have stated that costing is just a summation of different components price of a garment. But assembling of different component price is not so easy. A merchandiser can’t put any item’s price (either Raw Material Price or consumption or SMV) in costing sheet from his assumption. Each and every item’s price has to be authentic. To get the single price, a merchant take support from different department of his factory to collect fabric consumption, SMV and also then different component price from different trims supplier.

In a nut shell we can tell that, Costing (FOB) = Fabric Cost + Trims Cost+ CM + Wash cost (If applicable)

To do a costing we must need below information.

1.    Tech Pack/Design sketch/Sample of the particular garments with all necessary measurement.
2.    FDS (Fabric Detail Sheet)
3.    Mini Marker (Fabric Consumption)
4.    Trims Price
5.    SMV (Standard Minute Value)
6.    Wash Cost (For Denim and Over dyed program)

Tech Pack/Design Sketch/Sample of the particular garments: It is the details deign sheet by which a pattern master can make a sample pattern and can make sample. This tech pack should have all necessary measurement. A tech pack should have mention all necessary operation, stitching details, component reference etc.

FDS (Fabric Details Sheet): FDS contains generally some basic and mandatory information of fabric like fabric price, composition etc. An FDS must need below information.

1.    Fabric Unit Price
2.    Fabric Cut able Width & Shrinkage Percentage (Without C/W mini marker cannot be made)
3.    Fabric Article/reference number
4.    Mill Name
5.    Fabric Composition

Mini Marker: Mini Marker is a miniature version of marker which contain fabric consumption of a particular style of garments. CAD department do this part. To make mini marker we need
1. Tech Pack/Design sketch/Sample of the particular style with all necessary measurement.
2. Fabric Cut able Width & Shrinkage Percentage

Trims Price: Trims Price is another important part of a costing. No garments can be made without trims and accordingly without trims price it is not possible to make a costing. A merchant can collect trims price directly from trims supplier. Sometimes buying merchant source the special trims as per buyer requirement and provide trims price to factory merchant for costing purpose.

SMV: It denotes Standard Minute Value that states the total number of minutes take to make a garment. Industrial Engineering departments are responsible to calculate SMV. It is calculated considering time of each operation. It is necessary to calculate CM of a garment.

Different Part of a Costing Sheet:
Basic Information: Each cost sheet contain some basic information by which anyone can get a rough idea about the product component and merchandiser can easily track the costing sheet for further use.

Style No: Generally costing has been submitted to buyer after submit a new development sample. And each development sample has a individual style number by which we can track the style for any further use. E.g. 001, 002, Dev-A, Dev-B, 2018MAY01, 2018JUNE04 etc.

Style Name : Each styling isdesigned by a designer and a designer sometimes give a particular name of that style which name sometime give a basic concept about garment item. E.g. V neck Dress, Zip through Dress, Wide Leg Trouser, Ponte Leggings, Short Sleeve Blouse, Button Trough Blazer Etc.
Fabric Mill, Fabric Reference (Article No), Fabric Cut able Width:Fabric Mill name must need to mention in cost sheet. Otherwise it cannot be understand the fabric manufacturer of the garments.

Fabric Reference:Besides fabric mill name, fabric reference/fabric article number is necessary to track the fabric quality for further use. This fabric reference/article is a individual tracking number given by fabric manufacturer which is unique.

Fabric Description:Fabric description generally means the fabric composition, construction, GSM etc.

Fabric Cut able Width:It is the cut able width of a fabric which width is declared by fabric manufacturer. Fabric cut able width is very important to calculate the fabric consumption. Without fabric cut able width maker cannot be made and as a result consumption cannot be calculated.

Costing Quantity:In a costing generally we calculate FOB for per pcs garments. But besides calculate per PCS FOB we can also calculate total cost for each component for approximate order qty.

Wastage/Loading: Wastage/loading is wastage percentage considered for each individual item. It also vary from factory to factory based on their policy. Many factory considered wastage in fabric but many factory considered no wastage in fabric. But trims wastage must need for each factory and in that case generally sewing trims wastage is more than finishing trims wastage. Sometimes wastage percentage depends on order qty. If quantity less, then obviously wastage will be higher.

Fabric & Trims Fabric Cost: This is basically shell fabric and other trims fabric cost. Shell fabric means main body fabric and trims fabric means other supporting fabric, contrast fabric, pocketing, binding, piping etc. Fusing/interlining also consider in trims fabric category.

Trims Cost: This is all necessary trims cost for a garments.

Embellishment:Sometimes we have got special requirement from buyer such as printing, embroidery, heat seal etc. This is called embellishment. A garment manufacturer generally makes a garment but they may not have embroidery or print facility. In that case garments manufacturer do this part (embroidery/print) in other factory with an agreed unit price under permission from buyer. This is called sub contract production. And this total cost (including garments transportation cost to the third part factory) need to consider in embellishment cost sheet.

Wash: Sometimes buyer ask wash effect in garments. In that case if garments factory have not wash facility that case garments vendor do this part with other sub contract factory.

Test cost/ Courier Cost: This cost required based on buyer requirement and as per agreement with buyer. Every buyer have some testing requirement and this testing need to done in third party testing company like SGS, Intertek, UL, TUV etc. To make costing of a garments we need to consider some value for testing as testing charge.

Some buyer need some special sample like SMS (Sales Man Sample), Mock Shop Sample etc and buyer generally pay for this sampling cost and in that case we can considered this cost in costing sheet.

Commercial Cost /Transportation Cost:To ship a goods there is some cost involved which operation is done by commercial department. This is generally a fixed value or percentage value on total cost of a garments which value cover all shipment, transportation and commercial cost.

Miscellaneous:No expenditure is possible without budget and this budget need to consider in particular style costing. To avoid any uncertain budget short generally every factory keep some value in hand as miscellaneous cost.

CM: In costing it denotes Cost of Making that refers the total manufacturing cost involved in making a garment. CM includes the factory operation cost to make the garments. CM of a garment depends on styling of a garment and also depends on factory standard. For easy style CM is less and in such a way for critical style CM is higher. In fact it is related with SMV and overhead cost of the respective production unit.

Therefor, to calculate accurate CM of a garment we have to consider SMV of a garment. Also each factory has e fixed CPM (Cost per Minitue) / EPM (Earn per Minitue). If we multiply this standard CPM with SMV then we will get CM of that garments. Basically CM offer is the main output of experience of a merchandiser. By the basic rules fixed by a factory management (SMVXCPM=CM) we can calculate CM but to offer more logical CM a merchandiser should have proper market knowledge about product price. By this knowledge a merchandiser can bring the business for his company by offering logical, sharp but profitable CM.

FOB without buying commission: If we sum the fabric cost, trims cost, commercial cost, miscellaneous cost and CM then we will get the garments FOB. But this FOB is without any buying commission. Generally we take order through local buying house and there have an agreement with factory and buying house that factory will pay a certain percentage of FOB as commission for confirmed order.

Garments FOB: If we add this buying commission with total cost then we will get actual garments FOB which price we can sell the product to buyer.

Offered FOB & Profit: Garments FOB is the total cost of a garment making including raw materials cost & CM. To keep some margin on each order factory need to offer final price with some additional invisible cost as there will be some negotiation to place an order finally.

Need to input all the individual prices in excel sheet to that is already formulated for costing and then check with your seniors or department head to offer this to buyer.

See Cost Sheet Making Practically with Example