Salt in Freshwater Aquariums

Adding salt to a freshwater aquarium is not a necessity, but it is used by many aquarists as a treatment to add electrolytes to the aquarium water, and as both a stress reducer and a parasite deterrent. Basic Aquarium Salt is not the same as the formulated mixes used to make a brackish or saltwater aquarium. Aquarium Salt is simply Sodium Chloride, and does not contain minerals and trace elements like calcium and iodine like sea water mixes. Adding small portions of this salt can help to treat osmoregulatory stress, an imbalance or disruption in the exchange of salts and minerals between the fish itself and its environment. Stressful situations such as transport, disease, or injury can cause osmoregulatory stress, but if used properly, aquarium salt can increase blood and oxygen flow through the gills, helping the fish relax and heal. When used in higher concentrations for short time periods as a dip or bath, salt can help to build a the protective slime coat on the body, preventing parasites from attaching and even killing one-celled parasites like Protozoa, that may already be on the fish. While aquarium salt does have some benefits, it is not a necessary additive. Once introduced to the tank, salt does not evaporate out of the tank. It can only be removed with water changes and plants, inverts and other sensitive species may be negatively impacted if the concentration is allowed to rise.

Rift Lake Salts

There are also specialized salt mixes for African Cichlids. These mixes are formulated to help reproduce the water conditions of the Rift Lakes where the fish are native. They extend the same benefits as plain aquarium salt, buy they also contain minerals like magnesium, calcium, sodium, potassium, and other trace components that are found in those unique Rift Lake environments. These elements are essential for the long-term health and well-being of the fish. These mixes also contribute to raising and maintaining hardness and alkalinity.

Artificial Seawater

Now, on to the numerous mixes formulated to create seawater for marine tanks. Sea water is not just “salty”; it contains a precise mix of trace elements, all of which should be present in an artificial replacement. Using a commercial salt mix, you create water for the aquarium that is in many ways superior to natural sea water, with buffers to help maintain the proper pH, as well as additional calcium and other trace elements to maintain corals, clams and other reef invertebrates.

Seawater is composed of many different ions (salts) in different concentrations. The main ions are sodium (Na), chloride (Cl), magnesium (Mg), and sulfate (S04), forming the salts (NaCl and MgS04).  Salinity is the measure of the concentration of dissolved salts (ions) in the water, often given in ppt – parts per thousand.  Normal seawater is about 35 ppt salts. You’ll be looking to maintain a specific gravity reading between 1.019 and 1.025 depending on what is in your tank.

Making saltwater for your aquarium begins with finding a pure water supply. Many aquarists prefer to use RODI units that combine reverse osmosis (RO) and deionization (DI) to remove impurities and undesirable compounds from tap water.

You may need to do a little research when choosing a salt mix, to find what will suit your system best. Not all salt is created equal in the aquarium world. Each brand of marine salt mix varies from natural seawater’s concentrations of the four major ions (sodium, chloride, sulfate and magnesium), as well as other trace elements. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on how much mix to use, and check the solution for proper salinity as you add mix using a hydrometer or a refractometer. Add more salt mix to raise the salinity or more fresh water to lower salinity. Make sure all salt is completely dissolved before testing to ensure accurate readings.  Altering salinity of your tank significantly may also alter alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and other ions to the point where they will need adjustments, so be sure to have test kits on hand to monitor these levels. Some of these elements may also need to be regularly supplemented, particularly in heavily stocked reef tanks, as the amounts supplied by the salt mix alone will be depleted quickly.

A Note on Brackish Tanks

Seawater salt mixes should also be used if you’re creating or maintaining a brackish water system. Brackish water habitats are created in estuaries where rivers and streams meet oceans and the freshwater and saltwater mix. Sea Salt mixes will supply the necessary elements to your brackish habitat in lower concentrations, mimicking the conditions in their natural habitat.  Brackish aquarium water typically ranges between 1.002 and 1.022 specific gravity, and a 50/50 mix of fresh and mixed marine water should provide water in that range. While most brackish water fish will live happily in this concentration, you should know the conditions of the fish or inverts you’re keeping and adjust as necessary. Some brackish fish start their lives out in freshwater and eventually make their way “down the estuary” to become fully marine fish as adults.

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Aquarium Salt Mixes – Choosing the Right Salt for Your Tank

The post Aquarium Salt Mixes – Choosing the Right Salt for Your Tank appeared first on That Fish Blog.

We created a survey a few weeks ago to gather input on what you see as the best aquarium filters are in the hobby today. We received responses to the survey from over 100 aquarists, from beginner level to professional keepers of various sizes and types of aquariums. With the data collected we created a colorful infographic to show you which filters came out on top! Marineland and Fluval Brand filters topped the chart with more than half of the respondents listing these manufacturerers. Canister filters are now the top type of filtration for any aquarium type, with power filters following closely behind.

We’d like to thank all of you who participated in the survey to give us these results. The infographic is also available for use in your own page, just copy and paste the code below:
<a href="http://www.thatpetplace.com/best-aquarium-filter"><img alt="Best Aquarium filter" src="http://www.thatpetplace.com/best-aquarium-filter-graphic.jpg" /></a>Choosing the best aquarium filter for your fish tank – An infographic by the team at <a href="http://www.thatpetplace.com/">That Fish Place – That Pet Place</a>.

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Best Aquarium Filter [Infographic]

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The original “GloFish” were not created for the aquarium trade. They came from a popular fish used in many different fields of research, the Zebra Danio (Danio rerio). Zebra Danios have been used in research for environmental studies, cancer research, genetics, reproductive biology, neuroscience and applications to other fields as well. They even made the trip to space in 1975 on the Russian “Salyut 5” space station. So what makes them such good research subject? Zebra Danios are easy to breed and it only takes hours for the internal organs to develop after the eggs have been fertilized (about 24-36 hours, depending on temperatures and conditions). During this time, it is easy for researchers to monitor the development of the embryo since the “shell” around the eggs is a clear membrane. The eggs can hatch about 12-36 hours after that (again, depending on the conditions). These variable time frames also mean that, while the development is being studied, conditions can be adjusted to slow down or speed up the development, depending on what exactly the researchers are trying to determine. The genetic sequence involving the structure of the Zebra Danio’s DNA and RNA is very well-known at this point and is comparable enough to our own that, by understanding how changes in this structure affect the fish, researchers are gaining more understanding into how changes in our genetic structure can affect our own health.

Originally, GloFish were being developed for two major fields: cancer research and pollution detection. In the late 1990′s/early 2000′s, researchers thought to develop a fish that would change colors when a certain pollutant was found in their water. The thought was to develop a fish that would appear normal in “ideal” conditions but when a specific chemical or type of chemical was present in the water, a “trigger” would be set off to cause the fish to “glow” with a fluorescent protein in their bodies. As a step in this direction, they began to develop a fish that would always have this flourescent “glow” in a reproducible and hereditary way that wouldn’t affect the ecosystem around them. To do this, scientists turned to a fluorescent protein naturally found in jellyfish, corals and anemones rather than potentially harmful chemical dyes. Around the same time, similar projects were using a fluorescent protein to “mark” specific genes that were thought to be a cause or sign of cancer. By pairing the fluorescent protein with the cancer-related gene, researchers could see the fluorescence increase or decrease along with the other gene and see if an increase or decrease in that gene was related to the cancer. Since the genes (and cancers) in these fish behave in much the same was as they do within ourselves, researchers are using this to develop a way to track, diagnose and treat cancer in people.

A few interesting things happened as these trends in research progressed. The protein they are injecting into the eggs at the start of their development didn’t appear to be affecting their development or care. The fluorescence was passing along to the offspring and the offspring’s offspring. Different color proteins were giving the fish different fluorescent coloration and the resulting fish looked kind of cool.

Enter…The GloFish

The GloFish in the aquarium trade are bred, trademarked and sold to distributors by Yorktown Technologies, a company out of Austin, Texas, although different types of similarly modified fish were sold in Asian (particularly Taiwan) under different brand names. The original GloFish were genetically modified Zebra Danios with a red glow from the Red Fluorescent Protein (RFP) found in Discosoma sp. mushroom anemones and with a green glow from the Green Fluorescent Protein (GFP) found in the jellyfish Aequorea victoria.

More colors and species have been developed and modified over the past several years. A yellow-orange type coloration emerged from Yellow Fluorescent Protein (YFP), a mutation from the GFP and blue and purple fish have appeared, the source protein I was not able to identify for this blog. Other fish have been added to the GloFamily, including the Electric Green GloBarb (from the Tiger Barb, Puntius tetrazona) and the GloTetra (from the Black Skirt or White Skirt Tetra, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi). These new varieties are currently available in Electric Green, but Sunburst Orange and Moonrise Pink are being released mid-May 2013.

GloFish can be kept in a normally-lit aquarium, but the fluorescence will really pop under a black light or actinic (purple-blue) light.  Overall, their behavior and care is the same as the natural Zebra Danios, Tiger Barbs or Black/White Skirt Tetras. The fluorescent protein takes more metabolic energy from the fish, so GloFish tend to stay slightly smaller than the unmodified counterparts. Since they need to expend energy on the fluorescence, they can also be slightly more vulnerable to disease or improper or poor water conditions.

The Controversy and Ethics

As with any other “modified” animals in the pet trade, these fish have seen their share of controversy. Modified fish are certainly not new to the hobby. Even hundreds of years ago, fish were being selectively bred for their appearance, fancy goldfish being the classic example.  Designer clownfish are a more recent fad in saltwater aquaria. While the color changes are induced in the GloFish by injecting the protein, the goldfish and clownfish are selectively bred to promote naturally-occurring mutations like abnormal color, bulging eyes, stunted growth or other features.

Some opponents of GloFish compare their alteration to the practice of dying or tattooing fish to change their color. The change in the GloFish occurs in the embryotic stage of the first generation and is then passed on naturally to its offspring. Dying or tattooing to change color or pattern is modification done to otherwise natural adult fish. Some of these fish are tattooed or injected with a bright colors to change their outward appearance. Artificially dyed fish are exposed to a very acidic solution that removes their naturally protective slime coat, then dipped dye solution to change their color (in some ways like dying an Easter egg). Dying, injecting and tattooing are very harmful processes.  The survival rates are low, and the color result is usually not permanent, fading within a few months. GloFish color is permanent, passed on genetically, and doesn’t affect the health or behavior of the fish.

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GloFish – It’s All in the Genes

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Until recently, the freshwater side of the hobby has seen little attention from most lighting manufacturers, with what little was offered having few features and poor performance, but this is all starting to change. With advancements in LED technology and performance, some of the bigger aquarium lighting manufacturers are shifting their focus to LED over traditional lighting sources. Freshwater aquarium hobbyists are starting to see some cool new lights for their aquariums, with advanced features, high performance and affordability.

Marineland has had their Single Bright and Double Bright LED systems on the market for several years. These are fairly basic systems, good for general lighting purposes, offering daylight and moonlight features with manual control. But in 2012, Marineland upped their game for the freshwater hobbyist, and introduced their Aquatic Plant Lighting System. This new system is a high performance LED light for freshwater planted aquariums, based upon their successful Reef Capable LED platform, that has been on the market for several years. The Aquatic Plant Lighting System has a built in 24hr digital timer and controller that automates the on/off and lunar light cycle. The light features 1watt 6,500K white daylight LEDs, as well as 3watt RGB (Red, Green and Blue in a single chip) LED to enhance the light spectrum specifically for plant growth. The blue component of the RGB also doubles as the lunar light when activated.  This light fixture will not only provide for live plants, but will also enhance beautiful coloration in your freshwater fishes, and give the power needed for deeper freshwater aquariums. The Aquatic Plant Lighting system is available in 4 models, with adjustable mounting legs, that can fit on aquariums from 18” to 60” wide.

In 2013, Current USA launched two new lines of aquarium LED lights, the Satellite Freshwater LED and the Satellite Freshwater LED+. These new Satellite LED light systems are loaded with features and affordable, making the switch to LED for the freshwater hobbyist more enticing than ever. The lower level Satellite Freshwater LED fixture offers independent control of blue and white LED channels, and features a hardwired control panel that allows you dimming control of the blue and white LEDs for custom color mixing.  The wired remote also has control modes for storm action including effects that mimic random cloud cover and lighting, as well as dusk and lunar light modes. The Satellite Freshwater LED+ models are where the fun really starts. These more advanced models feature more colors, and a programmable 32 key remote control, while still offering affordability.  LED+ combines 6,500K white LEDs with fully controllable RGB LED chips, which allow the user to create a nearly limitless number of colors for their aquarium, all with remote control!  The LED+ line also has built in cloud and storm mode controls.  Each remote control features 6 pre-set, freshwater optimized, color choice keys.  You also have the ability create and save custom color settings, with 4 custom memory keys.  Both the Satellite Freshwater LED systems feature sleek, adjustable, low profile housings. Satellite LED systems are both available in 4 models, with adjustable mounting brackets that will fit aquariums from 18” to 60” wide.

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LED Lighting for the Home Aquarium

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Description

The yellowish-green to silvery-tan body is marked with an intricate pattern of speckles and lines.  The huge pectoral fins, reminiscent of those of marine flying fishes, lend an uncanny resemblance to a dead, floating leaf when viewed from above.  Long rays extending from the tail and the pelvic fin add to its remarkable camouflage.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Toniher

The African Butterfly Fish’s mouth is noticeably upturned, an adaptation for feeding on insects at and above the water’s surface.  Less noticeable is the mouth’s large size and the many teeth it bears; although it tops out at 5 ½ inches, this specialized predator can take quite sizable insects and fishes.

Utilizing its wing-like pectoral fins and unique musculature, the African Butterfly Fish can explode from the water’s surface to snatch low-flying dragonflies, moths and other insects, and to escape predators.  It does not, as far as we know, glide above the water as do marine Flying Fishes (please see photo).

This species is one of only a very few with eyes that can simultaneously scan both water and air for predators and prey.  Others include the Four-Eyed Fish and the Whirligig Beetle.

Classification

The African Butterfly Fish evolved long before most other fishes, and is one of the oldest species still surviving today.  In common with several other ancient species, its air bladder can absorb atmospheric oxygen. This unique creature is the sole member of its genus and family (Panthodiontidae).  Its closest living relative may be the Arowana.

Range and Habitat

The African Butterfly Fish lives in habitats that are difficult to survey, and its range is not well known.  It is endemic to western and central Africa, where it seems most common in the basins of the Congo and Niger Rivers.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Rossi101

The preferred habitat is still or slow-moving, heavily-vegetated water with overhanging shoreline trees.  It is most often found in swamps, creeks and river backwaters (please see photo).

Aquarium Habitat

This relatively inactive fish spends its entire life floating at the water’s surface, and is therefore best kept in shallow “long-style” aquariums.  Floating live or plastic plants and subdued lighting will provide the security it needs in order to thrive.

The water should be soft and slightly acidic (pH 6.4 – 6.8).  Temperatures of 77-84 F are fine; those at the Bronx Zoo thrived at 82-85 F.

The filter’s outflow should be gentle or diverted, as African Butterfly Fishes cannot abide strong currents.  The tank, including places where filter tubes and wires exit the aquarium, must be well-covered to ensure that these talented jumpers remain confined.

Companions

Although aggression is reported, I’ve had no problem with groups of 6-8 in a well-planted 55 gallon aquarium.  Surface cover (I used live Pothos plants) is important in providing sight barriers and cover when several are housed together.

African Butterfly Fishes have difficulty competing with active, surface feeding-fishes, and their long fin rays tempt fin-nippers.  Fishes up to one-half their size, or even larger, will be consumed.

I have successfully kept them with Elephant Nosed Fishes and Giant African Fan Shrimp, which makes for an interesting tank.  Please see the article linked below.

Feeding

African Butterfly Fishes are surface-feeding specialists and will not dive for food.  While some individuals will accept dry foods, they will not remain in top condition without live insects.  Crickets, newly molted (white) mealworms, roaches, wax worms, earthworms and other commercially bred invertebrates are readily accepted, as are guppies and minnows.  Insects that do not float should be offered via forceps.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by http://www.moc.noaa.gov/mt/las/photos2.htm

Wild caught moths, ants, crane flies, beetles, and the like will elicit a very enthusiastic feeding response.  The Zoo Med Bug Napper is an excellent flying insect trap that can be used to supplement the diets of all types of aquarium fishes.  Please see the article below for more information on collecting insects for your fishes.

Canned insects and frozen insects provide a convenient means of increasing dietary variety.

Breeding

Males may be distinguished by the indentation in the rear of the anal fin; individual rays in this area may appear to form a tube-like shape.

I’ve observed spontaneous spawning, but success is more likely if you allow the water level to drop several inches over a 2-3 week period while raising the temperature to 86 F.  Some success has been had with water depths of 5-6 inches, but it is not known if this is essential.  In the native habitat, the water’s pH likely becomes increasingly acidic during the dry season, so a slight drop in pH may help to bring your fishes into breeding condition.  After holding them in shallow water for several weeks, the tank should be topped off to its former level.

Females will deposit several hundred floating eggs over a period of several days.  The eggs, which gather about floating plants, should be removed lest they be consumed by the parents.  Incubation time is 3-4 days.

The tiny fry must be literally surrounded by live, floating invertebrates, as they will not chase their food.  Springtails – primitive insects that may be purchased or collected (please see this article ) – are the standard diet.  A colleague of mine also had some success using flightless fruit flies, and if I spawn this species in the future I plan to try mosquito larvae, hatchling mantids, and Daphnia

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.   Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

West African Community Tank

Live Food: Collecting Insects

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The Freshwater African Butterfly Fish – Care, Breeding, Behavior

The post The Freshwater African Butterfly Fish – Care, Breeding, Behavior appeared first on That Fish Blog.

Types of Pumps

Submersible Pumps are designed to operate completely submerged in your pond, and need a constant flow of water while running to keep them from overheating. Many submersible pond pumps include integrated pre-filters or filtration systems, and possibly pond fountain systems.  Submersible pond pumps are very easy to install, however they must be retrieved from the pond to perform maintenance. These pumps are easily concealed on the bottom of the pond, and they won’t disrupt your outdoor activities with unwanted noise or look visually unappealing against your natural display.  Debris handling waterfall pumps are designed for large ponds and for supplying water to vertical features including streams and waterfalls. Unique designs allow these pumps pump at high flow rates and to allow small debris to pass through without damaging internal parts.

External pond pumps are better for large pond installations and offer maximum performance when high flow rates and head pressure are required.  These in-line pumps may take a little more work to install, but generally require less routine maintenance.  In-line pumps are typically used with swimming pool type pressure filter systems, or when constructing large streams or waterfalls.

Applications

When you’re ready to choose your pond pump, there are two main points to consider: the size of your pond in gallons and the head height of any feature you may be constructing.  Many ponds feature some kind of stream or waterfall as a focal point and to provide oxygen and water movement to the pond.  Waterfalls can be very dramatic on any pond. A powerful pump will be necessary to carry water from the pond upwards to create the falls. Connecting several ponds together with rippling streams also makes for a stunning display, but may require a good deal of planning and powerful flow to get the desired effect.

You will want a pump with a minimum flow rate of at least half of the total volume of your pond, more if the pond has a waterfall or other feature included. For example, if your pond is 2000 gallons, you’ll need a pump with a flow rate of at least 1000 gph. It is recommended that you buy a larger pump than necessary, as you may choose to add other equipment or features in the future.

First, calculate the size of your pond using one of these formulas:  For round or elliptical features multiply length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 6.5. For rectangular or square ponds multiply length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 7 to get an estimate of volume in gallons. 

Next, consider the head pressure you’ll need to compensate for with the flow rate. Basically, you’ll need to find out how much pressure is necessary to direct the water vertically from the pump to where it comes out at the top of the falls. Head Pressure can be a little confusing, but this article helps to simplify the concept and keep you on track.  

Now that you have the specs you need, you can begin to look at individual brands and styles of pumps to see which will suit your project best. 

Popular Choices

There are hundreds of pumps on the market today, which can make the choice a little daunting. Our top sellers include Pond Mag Drives by Supreme Pondmaster, ProLine Hy-Drive Waterfall pumps, and Seahorse External Pumps.

Mag Drive Utility Pumps are versatile and powerful, perfect for most small and medium fountains, filters or waterfalls. Mag Drives can be used submerged or plumbed in-line for added flexibility. Each mag-drive includes a sponge prefilter to keep the pond pump from sucking in debris, but regular rinsing is a necessity.

Hy-Drive Waterfall Pumps pack a lot of power to tackle larger jobs. These powerhouse pumps feature special vortex propeller designs to move massive water volume. They can be used externally or submerged for versatile applications. Hy-drives also feature clog-resistant, screened enclosures to prevent debris from enterind and keep your pump running at peak efficiency even in ”dirty” ponds.

Seahorse Pumps are strictly external and perfect for the largest ponds. These pumps need to be hard wired, but they deliver excellent high-pressure pumping performance. These units are also ideal for operating with external pressurized pond filters like the Ultima II Series.

Good luck with your new and existing pond projects this season, please feel free to post any question in the comments section below.

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Choosing a Pond Pump for your Pond or Water Feature

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Getting to the Root of the Problem

Algae blooms are generally the result of either too much sun exposure or too many nutrients available in the water for the algae to feed on. If your pond is exposed to full sun for the majority of the day or when it is strongest, alga take advantage. You can provide shade using floating and marginal plants which provide cover for fish and other pond inhabitants, as well as aiding in nutrient control. Desirable flora like floating lettuce, hyacinth and duckweed will compete for dissolved nutrients and provide the shade you need while also serving as a food source and shelter for fry that may be produced by koi and goldfish.

Nutrients can be a little trickier. It may require some investigation to determine the source. Nitrates and phosphates are the key nutrients to target when trying to control algae growth. These nutrients can be created in the pond as sludge, waste and debris break down, and some may be introduced in source water or through runoff from rainstorms. There are test kits available to monitor the levels of nitrates and phosphates, and regular testing is recommended. Adequate filtration and diligent maintenance can be key factors to keeping nutrients at bay. Remove leaves and other plant debris, fish waste, uneaten food and other organic matter that will break down and create food for nuisance algae. Add live submerged, marginal and floating plants to your pond decor that will use the remaining nutrients before algae takes over. If nutrients are being introduced to the pond from external sources, take steps to limit or eliminate the contamination. There are also water additives you can administer to help remove phosphates and other organics.

Treatment Options

If you want to explore the various types of algaecides and algae-fighting treatments available to find one that will suit your needs, there are several things you’ll need to know. Before you bother to shop, know the size of your pond so you’ll know how much of any given treatment you’ll need. What kind of algae are you fighting? Do you have livestock in your pond or do pets and other animals drink from the pond? Do you have ornamental plants in the pond that may be affected by the treatment you use?

Natural solutions including barley straw products or biological additives and fish safe water dyes may be the first options to explore. Natural compounds that materialize as the lignin in barley straw biodegrades act as oxidizers to combat algae. Barley pellets, extract and other variations work the same way, but faster, as the compounds are more readily available in these forms. Biological additives boost bacterial that help to digest muck in the pond, reducing nutrients that feed algae. Water dyes and tints block the sunlight and prevent algae from forming and taking over. These methods allow for continuous control, simply replenish the straw as it degrades and the dye as it fades to keep algae in check.

For larger problems including ponds already over whelmed with algae, free-floating algae blooms or algae on tough to reach or clean surfaces like rocks and equipment, stronger algaecides may be necessary. Algaecides for planted ponds are generally formulated with oxidizing ingredients that destroy algae on contact or chemical ingredients that break down cell walls of simple alga. These treatments are typically safe for fish, ornamental plants and other animals in and near the pond provided instructions are followed. Algaecides for non-planted ponds often contain copper as the active ingredient which has the potential not only to kill plants, but is also harmful to snails and other organisms in the pond. Pea soup water is the result of free-floating algae, and the best long term solution may be to invest in a UV Sterilizer. While the initial expense may seem like a lot, this problem can frequently recur and a sterilizer will likely become the best investment you make to keep your pond clear. As your pond water passes through the sterilizer, the UV rays destroy the single celled organisms exposed to it, including alga, parasites and other harmful critters.

Manual removal of as much algae as possible before treatment is highly recommended to allow algaecides to work more efficiently and to prevent mucking up the pond after treatment. Closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure proper dosage and to take any precautions in using chemical means to keep your livestock safe during and after treatment. Make sure you have adequate aeration and surface agitation to supply your fish with vital oxygen, especially important during the warmer months. CO2 build-up and the new absence of oxygen-producing algae can cause an instant drop in available dissolved oxygen, especially if you treat in the evening. Low oxygen levels may cause fish to become sluggish or listless, and you may see them gasp at the surface or congregate at a fountain head or waterfall where more oxygen is available. If ample aeration is not restored, your fish may not survive. It is best to treat early in the day when you are able to observe how your animals are responding and take steps if necessary to add more aeration should they show distress.

Remove as much of the dead algae and debris as possible when treatment is complete, so that it isn’t left to decay in the pond. Once treatment is finished, a partial water change/siphon is also recommended, with particular attention to the bottom of the pond to remove the debris that may settle there. Addition of a biological “sludge remover” or bacterial supplements will help to breakdown the remaining debris to prevent further water chemistry issues.

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Algae Control in Ponds and Water Gardens

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Unfortunately, freshwater shrimps are difficult for the average aquarist to procure. I was, therefore, pleased when Zoo Med began offering canned freshwater shrimp.  Although marketed as a reptile food, I have fed canned shrimp and find them to be some of the best foods for freshwater aquarium fish, showing great results.  But I’ve been remiss in spreading the word among my hobbyist friends…if you decide to give them a try, please post your thoughts below, thanks.

An Important Consideration                                                                         

Small, whole animals are used in Zoo Med’s canned freshwater shrimp product.  This is preferable to offering our fishes small pieces of food market marine shrimp, which are usually missing nutritionally valuable internal organs (note: food grade shrimp are fine to use on occasion).

Canned Freshwater Shrimp 

The species used in Zoo Med’s Can O’ Shrimp is the Oriental River Prawn (Macrobrachium nipponense), a freshwater shrimp that ranges from Myanmar through China, Korea, Japan and Taiwan.  It would seem a more natural food source for freshwater fishes than is ocean-dwelling krill.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by MillaTom

Canned shrimp are large enough to interest Oscars, Lungfish, Bluegill Sunfish and other sizeable aquarium denizens, yet crumble easily and so can be taken by tiny species as well.  I also offer them to a wide variety of freshwater invertebrates, including crayfish, snails and diving beetles; African Vampire Shrimp especially enjoy chowing down on their smaller cousins!

Plum and juicy, these shrimp are ideal for fishes that are reluctant to accept freeze-dried foods and pellets.  Live food specialists such as the Chain Pickerel, for example, will readily take “meaty” foods in place of live fishes.  Bluegill Sunfishes, Bichirs and others also tend to refuse dry foods as they mature, even though such may be eaten by youngsters.  Fishes that are bred for the pet trade, such as various Cichlids, usually accept pellets, but the enthusiastic responses to canned shrimp will leave no doubt as to their preference!

Canned Grasshoppers, Silkworms, Snails, Mealworms and Crickets 

Terrestrial invertebrates form a large part of the diets of many freshwater fishes, but they have been largely overlooked by hobbyists and public aquariums alike.  Fortunately, a number of species are now being marketed in canned form, for use with pet reptiles and amphibians.  I’ve experimented with all as fish food, and am pleased with the results.  Please see this article for further information. 

Perhaps the unique nutrients offered by these foods will turn out to be critical in keeping or breeding certain delicate freshwater fishes, especially those which feed largely on invertebrates in the wild.

Fishing Bait

For those of you who enjoy fish on the plate as well as in the tank, I’m happy to report that canned invertebrates also make great, easy-to-store fish bait.  I’ve found shrimp to be favored above all, at least here in the Northeastern USA, but all are worth trying.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook .   Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Keeping the African Vampire Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp Care and Natural History

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The Best Foods for Freshwater Aquarium Fish – Canned Freshwater Shrimp and Invertebrates

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Natural History

Seven archerfish species have been described. They range from India to Malaysia and Australia, ofrten in association with brackish water mangrove swamps, but most also enter freshwater and the ocean. Archers and other species that move between salt and fresh water for other than breeding purposes are known as amphidromous fishes. 

At least 1 species, the 5 inch-long Smallscale Archerfish (Toxotes microlepis), spends most of its time in the freshwater. The giant of the genus is the 16 inch-long Largescale or Spotted Archerfish (T. chatareus). Both occasionally appear in the pet trade, where they are often confused with the Banded Archerfish (please see below).

Squirting Water: How and Why?

The environments inhabited by archerfishes are home to an enormous number of insect-eating competitors. In response, archerfishes have evolved a most unique way to exploit a resource unavailable to other fishes.

Archerfishes spend most of their time scanning overhanging branches for insects. When one is sited the fish stops, “takes aim” and forcibly ejects a stream of water at its target. The fish rarely misses, and the dislodged insect falls into the water. The speed with which the archerfish reaches its prize – less than 50 milliseconds according to one study – must be seen to be believed. 

The archerfish accomplishes this amazing feat by extending its lower jaw and raising the tongue so that it presses against the roof of the mouth.  The bony plates that cover the gills, known as the opercula, are then closed.  This process pressurizes water held within the mouth and allows the archerfish to hit insects as far as 6-9 feet away.  The Banded Archerfishes under my care were accurate at 2-4 feet; unfortunately, I did not have a chance to test their maximum range.  

Just as fascinating as the actual water-shooting process is the fact that, when taking aim at its moving target, the archerfish must somehow allow for the distortion of light as it enters the water!  

Archerfishes are also very athletic jumpers, and often leap out of the water to snatch insects from branches…I assume there is a “leap or shoot” decision process, but I’ve not read of any related studies. 

Learning to Hunt: Interesting Observations

This technique is obviously quite complex, and recent studies have shown that young archerfishes may learn from others, and that their accuracy improves over time if they are able to observe successful hunters.  Researchers have even been able to train captives to be better “archers”!  Young fish school together, and there is evidence that many will shoot at a single insect in an attempt to improve their chances of obtaining a meal. 

The Banded Archerfish, Toxotes jaculatrix

Description

The Banded Archerfish is most commonly seen in the pet trade. It may reach 12 inches in length, but I’ve not seen individuals exceeding 7.5 inches.  

The deep, oblong body is silvery-white on the sides and bottom, and sometimes tinged with yellow.  The upper body is olive-green to brown in color, and four to six broad, dark, wedge-shaped bands extend down the sides. The large eyes are close set, allowing for an unusual (for fishes) degree of binocular vision, and the mouth is long and pointed. 

Range and Habitat

The Banded Archerfish occupies a huge range that extends from India to Indonesia, the Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea and northern Australia.  It is most commonly found in mangrove swamps (please see photo).

Despite its wide distribution, the Banded Archerfish may face an uncertain future, as the mangrove swamps upon which it depends are among the earth’s most threatened habitats.

The Aquarium

It seems a shame to house these fascinating fishes in a situation that does not allow for the use of their unique abilities. They are, therefore, best kept in a “tall style” or very large aquarium that is a half filled with water, over which has been positioned branches and plants.

Archers are accomplished jumpers, so the aquarium should be well-covered.  Being quite active, they should be given as much room as possible.

Several individuals under my care reached 8-10 years of age; some may now be much older, but I’ve not had a chance to check with their current keepers.

Salinity

Banded Archerfishes will do well in typical brackish water aquariums at a specific gravity of 1.005.  Fluctuations in salinity (i.e. between 1.002 and 1.007) are well-tolerated and may even be beneficial. 

Temperature

Archerfishes thrive at temperatures of 76 – 85 F; I have found 82 F to be ideal.  

Companions

Although they get along well with each other and other similarly-sized brackish water fishes, Archers are aggressive feeders.  Therefore, pay particular attention to each individual at feeding time. 

I’ve successfully kept Banded Archerfishes with Mudskippers, Scats, Monos, Bumblebee Gobies, Hermit and Fiddler Crabs and various snails.

Feeding

Although they are insect specialists, Banded Archerfishes have expansive appetites and will readily consume all manner of flake, pelleted and frozen fish foods.  They do, however, relish live insects above all else, and will put on quite a show if crickets are released onto the branches overhanging their aquarium.  Archers will also benefit from occasional meals of wild-caught grasshoppers, moths, spiders, beetles and earthworms.

If live insects are not available, base the diet on frozen prawn, clams and other “meaty” foods.  Canned insects marketed for captive reptiles are also worth investigating.  Individuals maintained on flakes and pellets alone do not do as well as those provided a diet comprised of insects and frozen marine invertebrates.

Distinguishing the Species

The Largescale and Smallscale Archerfishes, which occasionally appear in the trade, are superficially similar to the Banded Archerfish.

The Largescale Archer has five dorsal spines as opposed to the Banded Archer’s four spines.  It is darker in color, spotted, and its bands are shorter than those of the Banded Archerfish. 

The bands of the Smallscale Archer do not extend to the dorsal fin, as do those of the Banded Archerfish. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Video: Archerfish Hunting Insects

Archerfish Natural History and Photos (all species)

Algae and Plants for Brackish Water Aquariums

Breeding Freshwater Archerfishes

Banded Archerfish image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by ChRumps
Mangrove Swamp image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Fanny Schertzer
Largescale Archerfish image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Esquilo

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Archerfish Care – Incredible Brackish Water Insect Snipers

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This isn’t a new story, just a continuing saga conveying the sad consequences of accidental or intentional introduction of non-native species. The story is believed to have begun sometime in the 80′s with lionfish being sighted between Florida and the Caribbean. Within 15-20 years the population exploded and at this point any hope of stopping the invasion has all but fizzled.  No one will ever know how they were introduced or where to place the blame. Some believe careless aquarists are at fault, releasing the fish into waterways if they became to large or otherwise unable to be kept. One popular theory is that the fish made their way into the Atlantic after a coastal hurricane destroyed a home or homes with aquariums that contained the Indo-Pacific natives, which miraculously found their way safely into east coast waters. Others believe it’s possible that juvenile or larval lions hitched a ride in ship ballast waters as other species have before, finding themselves in a new world when the waters were pumped out. Regardless, lions are here and here to stay, with only we humans as their predators.

You may have heard of other invasive species like snakeheads, grass carp, or zebra mussels. While these all present horrific problems in areas they’ve established in, the case of the lionfish is somewhat unique. These fish are voracious predators, devouring their fill of juvenile fish and crustaceans. Would-be predators that are native to the Caribbean and surrounding waters are intimidated by these new arrivals. Unsure how to attack and eat the frilly fish, they generally give up and move on to reliable prey. Their spread is basically unimpeded, being in open water. They are not limited to a pond or lake, they are only restricted by water temps and food availability, and they’re proving to be more resilient than expected. Warm currents of the Gulf Stream have carried the alien fish as far south as Venezuela and as far north as Long Island, NY, where they are still sighted despite cold temps. The population has spread and established like wildfire, and they’re here to stay.

While I haven’t seen these fish in open water myself, it’s disturbing how the ethereal fish hover and congregate as seen in recent news videos. This particular video isn’t a story covering the lionfish invasion, but I was amazed at the numbers of the fish you could see in the footage, as they hunt on and around the fighter plane wreckage. Your eye may catch one as the frames pass, but once you see one you begin to notice that it’s never just one in the scene. You see another, then another, then another until quick counts bring double digit numbers of the silent hunters stalking the area. This scene plays out on countless other small reefs, rocky outcrops and even the open sandy seafloor.

So if they can’t be eradicated, what can be done? Despite the seemingly hopeless situation, some island nations have seen localized success in controlling these burgeoning populations encouraging open season on lions for spearfishers and anglers. Advocates also encourage locals and fishermen to dine on the fish. Popular restaurants sometimes serve their delicate, mild, flaky fillets as featured plates! You can even prepare them at home…sample recipes from The Lionfish Cookbook. Various organizations are continually working to track the population to determine if and how fast lionfish numbers are growing. This is not an easy task considering the geography, range and depth where they roam. Researchers are also trying to predict the lionfish’s future in the Atlantic and their long-term effects on the ecosystem.

Public education programs in the region are spreading the word, imploring everyone to do their part. Authorities ask the public to alert them to the presence of lionfish and report sightings. Efforts are also being made to make locals and tourists alike aware of the dangers presented by lionfish including safe handling and treatments if stung. Awareness is also being raised about invasive species (not a strange concept in Florida) and the importance of containing and handling non-native plants and animals responsibly to prevent future introductions, intentional or not.  There are calls for regulations to control the introduction non-native species, including marine fish, freshwater fish and reptiles that can easily become established in tropical regions. Some areas enforce a strict ban on the importation of live fish, but without widespread adaptations of such regulations species may disperse to these places once they are introduced into non-native waters, just as lions have spread.

We’ll continue to follow and update you on the lionfish invasion as it continues to unfold along the East Coast. If you have experiences to share involving lions, we’d love to see your comments.

Lionfish image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Nick Hobgood

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Dangerous Beauty – The Ongoing Threat of Invasive Lionfish Along the East Coast

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