Fall is here again at That Fish Place – That Pet Place. The leaves are changing color and, more importantly, the temperatures are dropping. Chompers is packing his bags for winter migration, and Bernie is digging out all of his old doggy sweaters. They already have their plans to stay warm this winter, do your reptiles?

We mammals have it easy; when the outside gets too cold, our insides warm up. Reptiles, on the other hand work differently. As you probably already know, our scaly friends need to be provided with warm and cool areas within their enclosures in order to allow them to regulate their body temperature as they would in their natural habitats. The most common way to accomplish this is by the use of heat bulbs, which are placed on a metal screened top of a glass aquarium.

At first it can be overwhelming when trying to decide on what type of heat bulb to use. They come in different wattages. Some are round, others are beveled. Some are white, some are blue, some are purple, the list goes on.  Luckily, with the help of our awesome TFP reptile staff, we get you started off with the right type of bulb to keep your animal happy and healthy.

But just because they are indoors doesn’t mean that they aren’t affected by the changing temperatures outside.

Every fall, customers come to us in concern because their pet, who has been happy and healthy all spring and summer, is now slow and lethargic. Sometimes they may refuse to eat.  They may stay in their hide-out all the time.  Or they may just not seem like themselves. Many people begin to fear the worst, forgetting that the fall drop in temperatures have a huge effect on their cold blooded buddies. If you are finding yourself in a situation like the one that I have just described, it’s time to re-evaluate how you’re heating your animal for the upcoming winter.

Here are some tips that can help you figure out if you need to change your heating setup for the winter:

Know the appropriate temperature ranges for your pet

Every species’ temperature requirements will be slightly different. For example, a rat snake only needs a basking temperature of about 85 degrees, where as a bearded dragon prefers to have one around 110 degrees.

Know the heat output of the bulb that you are currently using

Most manufacturers post a chart on the back of the box to denote the approximate temperature output at various distances from the bulb itself. Note: These temperatures are approximations, usually based on 72-75 degree ambient room temperature.

Make sure that you have a good thermometer

I personally use digital probe thermometers such as ZooMed Digital Terrarium Thermometer for all of my pets. Those little stick on thermometers might be okay for your beta fish, but not really for reptiles.

Be sure that your thermometer is placed correctly in the terrarium

The probe should be placed under the heat lamp, in the spot where your pet usually basks.

If your thermometer placement is correct and it is still reading too cool for the species that you are keeping, it’s time to get a higher wattage heat bulb or add a secondary heat source.

Our reptile room staff will be happy to help you quickly figure out the best way to heat your pet for the winter. We have heat bulbs of all shapes, colors, and wattages, as well as heat pads and even automatic thermostat systems which will let you “set it and forget it.” Stop on in! Your reptiles will thank you for it.

The Season Has Changed, Should Your Reptile Bulbs? That Reptile Blog

Although there are a few loopholes, due to laws that govern the importation of potentially invasive species, insects which are sold as feeders in pet stores throughout the United States and Canada must be domesticated versions of their wild counterparts. The process of domestication involves strict breeding guidelines which are used to bring out certain favorable characteristics within a species, and also ensure that they (hopefully) couldn’t cause too much harm if released into the wild.

Despite their assumed hardiness, many of our reptile room customers often ask the same two questions: “What can I do to keep these darn things alive?” and “how do I keep them from escaping?”

Even though we tend to simply think of them as food for our pets, crickets are living animals themselves and these points need to be kept in mind.

• They need to eat: Crickets will eat almost anything. In the Reptile Room at our store we feed a special mixture of oatmeal, fish food, turtle food & dog food crumbs.

• They need to drink: Crickets aren’t the smartest creatures, and if you put a dish of water in their enclosure they might drown. I prefer to use an all in one cricket food/drink combo such as Fluker’s Complete Cricket Diet. This provides both water and food for the cricket.

• You need to clean out their enclosure: Even if you are just keeping them in an old plastic takeout container that you don’t really care about, waste products and dead crickets must be removed on a daily basis. When debris begins to break down it creates ammonia gas. After enough ammonia accumulates, the remaining crickets can quickly suffocate and die off.

• You don’t have to have crickets jumping all over your house: Crickets are naturally tunnel/cave dwelling creatures, therefore they are attracted to darkness. You can use this to your advantage to keep them in their container, and off of your floors. Cricket Keepers such the Exo Tera Cricket Pen are a great thing to have. They have slots on their sides where dark plastic tubes are inserted. Being attracted to the darkness, the crickets hide inside of the easily removable tubes. All you have to do is slide out the tube, shake some crickets into your pet’s enclosure, then pop the tube back into the cricket pen.

Why Do My Crickets Keep Dying? That Reptile Blog

General Considerations

Even within the hottest of natural habitats, herps find ways to escape temperature extremes.  Millions of years of evolution have brought us a great many surprises in this regard – Australia’s Water Holding Frog, for example, thrives where most unprotected creatures, even reptiles, would cook in short order.  So while desert adapted animals may be better suited to withstand heat, do not assume that they will be fine without special attention.

Many herps remain active in extreme habitats by utilizing unique “micro-habitats” – regions that remain cool or damp despite general conditions.  Thus, Big headed Turtles inhabit cool streams in warm regions, leaf litter and the burrows of larger animals allow Gopher Frogs, Caecilians and other “delicate” amphibians to inhabit areas that should, in theory, be too hot to support them, and so on.

Water chillers, air conditioners and trout-holding tanks can all be put good use during hot weather.  Basements, when available, are a wonderful resource.  In the NYC area, most basements I’ve used ranged from 66-70F in summer and 52-56F in winter.

Amphibians

With the exception of a very few species (i.e. the African Grey Treefrog), most amphibians weaken and die is short order when forced to endure hot and/or dry conditions.  Cool temperatures are usually preferable…in fact, research labs sometimes refrigerate Leopard Frogs in order to curb “red leg” infections, and I’ve had good results doing the same for Mexican Axolotls.  On two occasions during my time at the Bronx Zoo “dead” salamanders placed in the hospital’s necropsy refrigerator were found to be alive and kicking the next morning!

The temperatures favored by amphibians can be quite surprising.  I once refrigerated a group of Fire Salamanders in order to induce hibernation, but found them foraging for food even at 40 F.

Although labor intensive, coolers provisioned with reusable gel ice packs make good summer homes for particularly sensitive amphibians.  A quite “intense” friend of mine kept Black-Chinned Red Salamanders in this way, changing the packs twice daily, for over 20 years.  I inherited one of his salamanders, which is now at least 31 years old, so the technique does work!

If you keep tadpoles, salamander larvae or wholly-aquatic species, bear in mind that warm water holds less oxygen than does cool water.  Gilled larvae are therefore prone to suffocation.  Neotenic salamanders such as Mudpuppies and Axolotls have lungs but prefer to rely upon their gills and skin for oxygen transfer.  As temperatures rise, they will begin to wave the gills in order to create water currents, or will swim to the surface for air.  This will stress them and weaken the immune system.

Some amphibian keepers take advantage of the summer’s heat by allowing their animals to aestivate, or become dormant.  This is a tricky prospect (please write in for details) but can be the best course, and even a breeding stimulus, for some species.  Sirens, African Bullfrogs, Water-Holding Frogs and Spadefoot Toads are among the champion “summer sleepers”.

Turtles and Tortoises

Despite a propensity for basking, tropical climes and deserts, Chelonians are not immune to temperature stress.  Some species, such as Big Headed and Bog Turtles, are known to favor rather cool temperatures. While they may not expire in the manner of amphibians, such turtles may suffer health problems brought on by an over-worked immune system and the stress of trying to find an appropriate retreat.  Bog Turtles under my care at the Bronx Zoo, housed in a very warm holding area, fared much better once chillers were installed in their enclosures.

Common Snapping Turtles are active at very low temperatures, and have even been seen moving about in ice-covered ponds.  Captive become restless when water temperatures exceed 85F or so, something I’ve noticed in Common Musk Turtles as well.

Perhaps because of their “tortoise-like” appearance, American Box Turtles are often kept at inappropriately-high temperatures.  They fare best at 72-75F, with access to a warmer basking spot.  Dry conditions have been linked to eye and ear ailments, so be sure to use moisture-retaining substrates and mist regularly.  A water bowl or pond large enough for soaking must always be available.

Even desert-adapted tortoises (especially hatchlings) may need special attention in summer.  For example, Egyptian Tortoises avoid temperature extremes by remaining dormant, and in the wild may be active for only a few months each year.  Those I kept became very lethargic when subjected to warm temperatures year round.

Snakes and Lizards

Tentacled Snakes inhabit shallow, still waters in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand, and so might be expected to be well-adapted to warm temperatures.  Yet all that I have kept would leave the water (an unnatural and, given their clumsiness on land, dangerous behavior) when temperatures exceeded 84F.

Smooth and Keeled Green, Brown (DeKay’s), Red-Bellied and Ring-Necked Snakes, and other small, insectivorous species, are quite prone to dehydration and heat stress. Although they need a chance to dry out, a cool, moist retreat is essential to their well-being.

Many lizards favor hot, dry conditions, but even desert-adapted species have their limits.  For example, field research has shown that Gila Monsters (Not an animal I would recommend as a pet!) spend almost all their time in cool, damp burrows.  Certain lizards, such as the Crocodile Skink, favor surprisingly low temperatures while others, such as the Green Anole, are prone to dehydration in arid surroundings.  As always, research your species’ natural history before making any assumptions, and please feel free to write in if you would like assistance.

Further Reading

Big Headed Turtle (Temperatures in Natural Habitat)

Siren Dormancy

Cyclorana platycephala image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Tnarg 12345
Testudo kleinmanni werneri image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Abrahami
Ring-necked Snake image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Cody Hough, college student and photographer in the Michigan Area

Hot Weather Herp Tips – Summer’s Effect on Reptiles and Amphibians That Reptile Blog

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Although they represent a mere 6% of the world’s snake diversity, boas, anacondas and pythons have long monopolized the attentions of herpetologists, private snake keepers, zoos and “non-herp people” alike. Much of our fascination centers upon the families’ giants, and the huge meals they consume. At least 2 species – the African Rock Python (Python sebae), and the Reticulated Python (P. reticulatus) – occasionally add people to their diet, and anecdotal evidence indicates that the same may be true of the Green Anaconda (Eunectes murinus). Captive Burmese Pythons (P. bivittatus), have on occasion killed caretakers, and the Indian Python (P. molurus) and Scrub Python (Morelia amethystinus) are certainly capable of doing the same. Even after a lifetime of working with giant constrictors, I was astonished by some of the anaconda meals (most notably a 60 lb. deer) that I was lucky enough to observe in the field.

Important Note: Green Anacondas and African Rock, Indian, Burmese and Scrub Pythons can exceed 20 feet in length, and cannot usually be properly and safely managed in private collections. Human predation, while rare, has been documented for several of these, and feral Burmese Pythons are causing ecological havoc in south Florida. As is the practice among professional zookeepers, at least 2 well-experienced adults should be on hand whenever constrictors exceeding 6 feet in length are fed or handled. Please see the article linked under “Further Reading” to read about a surprising study of human predation by Reticulated Pythons.

Classification

The world’s 40 python species are classified in the family Pythonidae and the super family Pythonoidae. Also included in Pythonoidae are the Mexican Burrowing Pythons (Lococemidae) and the Sunbeam Snakes (Xenopeltidae).

The world’s 58 boas (including the 4 anaconda species) are placed in the family Boidae. Boidae is further divided into 3 subfamilies – the True Boas and Anacondas (Boinae), the Sand Boas (Erycinae) and the Dwarf Boas (Ungaliophiinae).

Boas and pythons are considered to be “primitive” snakes, due to certain anatomical features such as vestigial pelvic girdles and rear limbs (the cloacal “spurs” seen on most species), but as you’ll see below they are extraordinarily successful. All are constrictors, and most are equipped with facial heat-sensing organs that allow them to locate warm-blooded prey at night.

Size

Pythons

At an adult size of less than 36 inches, Australia’s Pygmy Python (Antaresia perthensis), is the smallest species. At the other end of the scale, the Reticulated Python sometimes exceeds 20 feet in length. Also in the same general size category are Asia’s Indian and Burmese Pythons, the African Rock Python, and the Scrub Python of Australia.

A reward offered by the Bronx Zoo for a snake exceeding 30 feet in length remained uncollected for nearly 100 years. During my time working there, we were excited by photos of what looked to be a record-breaking Reticulated Python captured in Borneo. Upon arrival at the zoo, however, she proved to be “only” 21-23 feet long – but much stronger than the captive-bred specimens I’ve dealt with!

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Damien Farrell

Boas

The various Dwarf Boas (Ungaliophiinae) are fully grown at 12-28 inches in length, while female Green Anacondas are the heaviest of all snakes and may equal or exceed the Reticulated Python in length.

Of nearly 500 Green Anacondas that I and co-workers tagged in Venezuela’s llanos region, a 17 foot-long, 215 lb. female proved largest; several others measured 15-16 feet in length. Reliable colleagues report sightings of larger individuals along forested rivers within the Amazon basin, but in such habitats they are nearly impossible to capture.

Range

Pythons

With a single exception (the Mexican Burrowing Python, Loxocemus bicolor), pythons are limited to the Eastern Hemisphere. Their greatest diversity is reached in Australia and New Guinea, but they are also well-represented in Africa and South/Southeast Asia. Feral populations of Burmese Pythons and African Rock Pythons are established in Florida, USA.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by USDA Forest service

Boas

Boas occur nearly world-wide in tropical and subtropical environments, but are absent from Australia. They are represented in Europe by a single species, the Javelin Sand Boa (Eryx jaculatus). Many, myself included, are surprised to learn that the Rubber Boa (Charina bottae) ranges as far north as southern Canada. Boas reach their greatest diversity in Latin America, where they are sometimes the largest terrestrial predators in their habitats. Madagascar and several Caribbean and South Pacific islands are home to numerous endemic, and often rare, species.

Habitat

Boas and pythons occupy nearly every conceivable habitat, including deserts, rainforests, major cities, farms, arid woodlands, swamps, cloud forests, sand dunes, grasslands, large rivers, and many others. Some are highly specialized for life in the water, treetops, or below ground, while others, such as the Common Boa (Boa constrictor), are habitat generalists.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Tigerpython

Reproduction

All pythons produce eggs which in most if not all species are incubated by the female. By contracting their muscles, or “shivering”, females can raise the temperature of their clutch by as much as 40 F.

With a single exception (the African Ground “Python”, Calabaria reinhardtii, formerly classified as a python), all boas and anacondas give birth to live young.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by KaroH

Diet

Many boas and pythons are generalists that consume a wide variety of mammals, birds, reptiles, and amphibians. For example, field studies show that the Common Boa takes tamanduas, green iguanas, raccoons, bats, monkeys, birds and a huge array of other creatures with equal gusto.

Specialists are also common. Mexico’s Oaxacan Dwarf Boa, an inhabitant of cool cloud forests, feeds primarily upon frogs, salamanders and their eggs, while the reptile-partial Black Headed and Woma Pythons include frilled lizards, bearded dragons and blue-tongued skinks in their diets

Mammals weighing in excess of 100 pounds, large crocodilians, turtles and other seemingly “unlikely” meals are taken by the giants of each group. Please see the article linked below for more on large, odd snake meals.

Further Reading

Reticulated Python Attacks

Odd and Giant Snake Meals

Anaconda Care and Natural History

Boas, Anacondas & Pythons in the Wild & Captivity: An Overview That Reptile Blog

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by maimaip2000

Description

Female Barbour’s Map Turtles are very impressive, with noticeably-broad heads and shells that may approach 12 inches in length. The narrow-headed males are so much smaller – a mere 3.2 to 5.2 inches long – as to appear to be of a different species.

The carapace is brown to olive-green, with pale yellow or white marks along its edge, and is topped by 2 spine-like ridges. Yellow stripes decorate the neck and legs, and there are blotches of yellow behind the eyes.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Eekhoorntje

Other Map Turtles, while smaller, exhibit a wide array of carapace “decorations”, colors and habits.  You can read more about some of these in the articles linked below.  Pictured here is the spectacular Ringed Map Turtle (G. oculifera).

Range and Habitat

The range of this USA endemic is restricted to the Apalachicola River System in the Florida Panhandle and Georgia.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Sallicio

Barbour’s Map Turtle is largely limited to clear, limestone-bottomed streams that contain numerous fallen branches and trees. Highly aquatic, it spends much time basking on logs, plunging into the water when disturbed. The Barbour’s Map Turtle feeds only in water, and, except when nesting, rarely travels far from shore.

The Aquarium

These large, active turtles require spacious homes. While a 55 gallon aquarium might suit a small male, females need tanks of 125 – 200 gallon capacity, or commercial turtle tubs and ponds.

Wading pools are often easier to manage than aquariums. Koi ponds sometimes contain shelves meant to hold plants; these work well as turtle basking areas. Outdoor housing is ideal, assuming that raccoons and other predators can be excluded.

Although highly aquatic, all map turtles need a dry surface on which to bask. Commercial turtle docks will suffice for small specimens. Cork bark, wedged or affixed via silicone to the aquarium’s sides, is a good option for adults.

Filtration

Turtles are messy feeders and very hard on water quality. Submersible or canister filters are necessary unless the enclosure can be emptied and cleaned several times weekly (I’ve found the Zoo Med Turtle Clean Filter to be ideal). Even with filtration, partial water changes are essential.

Removing your turtles to an easily-cleaned container for feeding will lessen the filter’s workload and help to keep the water clean.

Substrate

Bare-bottomed aquariums are best, as gravel traps food and wastes, greatly complicating cleaning, and may be swallowed along with food.

Light and Heat

Heliothermic turtles (those that bask) require UVB radiation in captivity. If a florescent bulb is used (the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb provides high UVB output), be sure that the turtle can bask within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and also provide beneficial UVA radiation. Natural sunlight is the best UVB source, but be aware that glass filters-out UVB rays.

Water temperatures of 72-80 F should be maintained. An incandescent spotlight bulb should be used to warm the basking site to 90 F.

Companions

Barbour’s Map Turtles will eat or chase fishes, newts and aquatic frogs.

Females and juveniles may get along, but be prepared to house them separately as aggression often develops over time. Males often harass females with mating attempts, and may stress or bite them in the process; adult males cannot be kept together.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Boldie

Feeding

In the wild, female Barbour’s Map Turtles feed almost entirely upon fresh water mussels, snails and crayfish. Males take smaller snails, insects, crayfish, and fish.

Pets should be offered a diet comprised largely of snails, crayfish, and mussels, along with whole fishes, earthworms and prawn. Those under my care accepted apple snails and other native and introduced species that I collected and bred, European land snails (introduced in NY, and also available in seafood markets), freshwater mussels and clams, periwinkles, crayfish, shiners, minnows, green crabs and fiddler crabs.

Goldfish should be used sparingly, if at all, as a steady goldfish diet has been linked to kidney and liver disorders in other turtle species. A high quality commercial turtle chow can comprise up to 30% of the diet. A cuttlebone should be available to supplement the calcium provided by whole fishes and similar foods.

Other important food items include earthworms, krill, freeze-dried river shrimp and, to a lesser extent, crickets and other insects.

Breeding

Field studies indicate that females take 20 or more years to reach breeding age. This fact, along with their small natural range and past over-collection for the pet trade, threatens the future of the Barbour’s Map Turtle. Reproduction has not been well-studied in the wild, but pets have produced 6-9 eggs in June and July.

Gravid females usually become restless and may refuse food. They should be removed to a large container (i.e. 5x the length and width of the turtle) provisioned with 6-8 inches of slightly moist soil and sand; please see article linked below). Gravid females that do not nest should be seen by a veterinarian as egg retention invariably leads to a fatal infection known as egg peritonitis. It is important to note that females may develop eggs even if unmated, and that captives may produce several clutches each year.

The eggs may be incubated in moist vermiculite at 82-86 F for 60-85 days. Please post below for further details concerning captive reproduction.

Temperament

These shy turtles adjust well to captivity if provided proper conditions, but they may not become as responsive as other map turtles. All turtles are capable of administering powerful bites and scratches when frightened, and must be handled with care.

Further Reading

Nesting Sites for Captive Turtles

Choosing the Best Turtle Filter

Slider, Map and Painted Turtle Care

Barbour’s Map Turtle Care and Natural History That Reptile Blog

Spring 2015 has been slow to arrive and seemingly loathe to take hold here in southern NY and northern NJ. But we have persisted in looking for our favorite spring sights, and over the past several weeks have finally been rewarded with views of old favorites and some new observations as well.

Early Spring Amphibians

There are several vernal ponds in southern Westchester County, NY, where, if the weather and amphibian gods favor us, spotted salamanders, wood frogs and spring peepers can be observed breeding on the same night. As the large, vividly-colored Spotted Salamanders have always been favorites of mine, and are the most elusive of the “Big Three” early spring amphibians, I usually focus on finding them.

Last year, we hit it just right, and were able to find males beneath leaves along the shore of a breeding pond, awaiting the females’ arrival (the sexes arrive in 2 separate waves, co-mingling only “when necessary”). I’ve found breeding groups as early as March 19th in southern NY, but last year the salamanders showed up during the second week of April. I returned to one favored site during the same week this year, only to find snow on the ground and ice along the pond’s edge! I’ll return soon, hopefully to be rewarded by the sight of their rounded, algae-tinged egg masses.

An even earlier spring breeder, the Eastern Tiger Salamander (in NY, limited in distribution to eastern Long Island) is sometimes roused to action by mid-February. I was unable to visit any sites this year, but assume they were late in breeding as well, given the frigid February we experienced.

Wood Frogs and Spring Peepers were also weeks later than usual, at least per my records, but have now (May 1) reproduced. A friend called tonight from Cape Cod to say that spring peepers were still in full chorus there.

Mid-April in a NJ Swamp: Snappers, Frogs, Birds & Butterflies

On April 17, 2015, we visited a small button bush swamp in northern NJ. Last year at this time, it was alive with bullfrogs, painted turtles, aquatic insects and other typical warm weather residents. We almost immediately came upon a large male common snapping turtle, half-buried in the mud in very shallow water. The cool weather rendered him quite sluggish – a plus for the little turtle wrangler who hauled him out for closer inspection! Snappers are about as cold-tolerant as a turtle can be…several years ago I found one basking on February 16^th. By mid-April, they are usually their normal feisty selves, ready and willing to do battle…not so this cold, old fellow.

We saw none of the American bullfrogs that normally abound in this swamp, but did net several second-year tadpoles that had emerged from hibernation. Green frogs were also absent from the main swamp, but we flushed several near a small, sun-warmed vernal pond. Our net failed to find any water scorpions, diving beetles or other common aquatic insects, but many over-winter as eggs, and so are difficult to locate prior to maturity.

Happily, the red-winged blackbirds were out in force, and calling all day. I’ve observed these early harbingers of spring to return to NY as early as February 2^nd. A single mourning cloak, one of the few local butterflies that over-winters as an adult, flitted through the still largely-brown woodland that borders the swamp. At 6 PM, a light rain began to fall, and a small chorus of spring peepers, undaunted by daylight, started-up…assuring us, as little else can, that spring was finally here!

The Great Swamp: Amorous Snappers, Snakes & Beetles

It’s impossible for a naturalist to have a disappointing visit to New Jersey’s magnificent Great Swamp, and our April 24^th trip there confirmed this once again. Although perhaps a bit behind schedule, spring was now in full throttle. A pair of snapping turtles mated (or “wrestled”, according to my 7-year-old cohort!) with abandon within 2 feet of a boardwalk (please see photo). The first rainy night in June should bring the female, and almost all others in this part of the country, out to nest.

Garter snakes, green frogs and painted turtles were very much in evidence, and flickers issued forth with staccato calls that seemed more suited to a central African rainforest than a NJ suburb. Our prize insect find was a larval caterpillar-hunter beetle. At the nearby Raptor Trust we were treated to several birds we hadn’t seen in some time, including short-eared owls, ravens and, most surprisingly, an albino/leucistic American robin.

Along the Hudson: Eels, Eagles & Nesting Herons

When last I searched the southern reaches of the Hudson River, back in late February, bald eagles rode some of the waterway’s many ice floes. Friends who frequent the river’s west shore north of Bear Mountain report that resident eagles are now feeding chicks, great blue herons are brooding eggs, and millions of tiny “glass eels” (juvenile American eels) are on the move.

A late spring means that there’s still time to see some of the wonderful natural events you may have missed, and that we can look forward to the explosion of life that herald’s early summer – get out there if you can, and please post your observations below!

Further Reading

Amphibian Breeding Site Conservation

Collecting Insects: Traps & Tips

Spring Field Trips: Amphibians, Reptiles, Invertebrates, Birds That Reptile Blog

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by George Chernilevsky

Among the world’s 900+ tarantula species (family Theraphosidae) we find a staggering diversity of sizes, colors, and lifestyles, and many that make interesting, long-lived pets. Having been involved with spider care in zoos and private collections from an early age (and at a time when only 1-2 tarantula species were readily available in the USA!), I’m pleased and somewhat astonished to see the explosion of interest here and abroad. Several species that were undescribed a few short years ago are being regularly bred by private keepers – usually to a far greater extent than is seen in zoos. However, as tarantulas become more “mainstream”, they are sometimes purchased by folks who may not have a good sense of their true natures. Unrealistic expectations will dampen the experience of both pet and pet keeper. Following are 5 critical points that the prospective tarantula owner should consider.

Please see the linked articles and post below for detailed care and breeding advice.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Sascha Grabow

Tarantulas are “Hands-Off” Pets that Cannot be Tamed

Like most creatures, Tarantulas are capable of learning, and they routinely modify their behavior in response to captivity. However, they are mainly guided by instinct, and cannot in any way be tamed or “trusted” – they will not bond with people.

Please ignore the foolish advice so common on the Internet and do not handle your tarantula (please post below for info on safely moving tarantulas). Handling is a stressful event for any tarantula. More importantly, while the venom produced by tarantulas has not (as far as we know from published reports) resulted in human fatalities, children, the elderly, and people with allergies or compromised immune systems may be at risk. Please see the article linked below for information on serious reactions caused by the bites of certain Asian tarantulas.

Tarantulas bear urticating (irritating) hairs that are used to repel predators (please see photo). Hairs that come in contact with soft tissue can cause severe injuries. In fact, a Bronx Zoo coworker of mine underwent extensive eye surgery in order to remove Red Kneed Tarantula hairs from his eye. As this person learned, hairs that are in the terrarium or on one’s hands can be just as dangerous as those deliberately shed in response to a threat.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Flamesbane

Tarantulas are Nocturnal and Secretive

Well-adjusted tarantulas often emerge to hunt by day, but they will otherwise remain in hiding until nightfall. They will not thrive if forced to remain in the open.

Fortunately, red night-viewing bulbs will enable you to observe your pets after dark.

Your “Single” Tarantula may Surprise You with an Egg Sac

As a single mating can result in multiple egg cases, females sometimes produce eggs long after having been fertilized by a male. If you are not aware of a female’s history, you may find yourself with more tarantula-related responsibilities than you bargained for! While a fascinating endeavor (to me, at least!), rearing 100 or more tiny, cannibalistic spiderlings is not for everyone.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Greg Hume

Tarantulas Need Live Food

While many captives learn to take canned insects and pre-killed pink mice from tongs (do not hand-feed!), live insects will form the vast majority of your tarantula’s diet. Cricket-only diets seem to work well for many species, but the best long term results will be achieved by providing a varied menu which includes roaches, waxworms, silkworms, grasshoppers, earthworms and other invertebrates.

The “It Doesn’t Do Anything” Factor

Ideally, the new tarantula owner will be interested in her or his pet for its own sake. But most of us also wish to see how the animal lives, what it does, and so on. Well-fed tarantulas that are not in breeding mode are often about as active as the infamous “pet rock”…and are nocturnal to boot!

Fortunately, red light bulbs now enable us to watch them after dark. If you provide your tarantula with a large terrarium and appropriate living conditions, you’ll have much of interest to observe.

Further Reading

Are Tarantula Bites Dangerous: Recent Research

Keeping the World’s Largest Tarantula

Tarantulas: Are They The Right Pet for You? That Reptile Blog

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Brian Gratwicke

Some Cautions

The Amphiuma’s rough-and-tumble disposition and innate hardiness (one at the London Zoo topped 30 years of age) should not be taken as an excuse to ignore water quality. Effective filtration and frequent water changes are critical to their health. Please see my article on Mudpuppy Care, linked below, for further details on managing water quality in aquariums housing large aquatic salamanders.

Move Amphiumas by coaxing into net…they are slippery and they can administer a very painful bite, so do not free-handle. Their skin damages easily in nylon nets, so transfers should be made quickly and carefully, and only when necessary.

The Aquarium

An adult Amphiuma will require an aquarium of at least 55 gallons capacity.

The aquarium’s lid should be well-secured, as they will attempt to escape at night. For newly arrived individuals, it’s prudent to line the lid with foam or enclose in a pillow case so they do not damage their snouts by rubbing on screening.

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Amphiumas favor swamps and other heavily-vegetated, mud-bottomed aquatic habitats.  Keep plenty of cover such as plastic plants in aquarium, and provide a cave or PVC pipe where the Amphiuma can get completely out of sight.

Water Quality

In common with other amphibians, Amphiumas have porous skin that allows for the absorption of harmful chemicals. Careful attention to water quality is essential.

An aquarium pH test kit should always be on hand. Amphiumas fare well at a pH of 6.5 to 7.0.

Ammonia, excreted as a waste product and produced via organic decomposition, is colorless, odorless and extremely lethal to all amphibians; a test kit  should be used to monitor its levels.

Chlorine and chloramine must be removed from water used for any amphibian. Liquid chlorine/chloramine removers are highly effective and work instantly.

Copper may be present in water carried by old pipes; a test kit should be used if you suspect its presence.

Filtration

Under-gravel, corner, hanging and submersible filters can all be used in Amphiuma aquariums. Even with good filtration, regular partial water changes are essential in keeping ammonia levels in check.

Be sure that the entry/exit openings for filter tubes are well-secured, lest they provide an escape route. I find it easier to use Ovation submersible filters (see above) for these and other powerful amphibian escape artists.

Light and Heat

Dim lighting by day followed by brighter lights at night may encourage daytime activity, but do this only if animal is feeding and otherwise adjusted to captivity. Night-viewing bulbs will help you to observe Amphiumas after dark. All those that I’ve kept at home or in zoos have fed readily by day once adjusted to captivity.

Amphiumas fare best at water temperatures of 70-75 F, but tolerate a wider range.

I have kept Amphiumas on gravel and bare-bottomed aquariums, but a soft sand or clay-based substrate is preferable, especially for individuals that try to burrow. Avoid any material that will raise pH.

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Diet

Minnows, shiners (and other whole freshwater fishes) and earthworms should form the bulk of the diet. Goldfish should be used sparingly, if at all, as they have been implicated in health problems (other species). Small crayfishes are a great favorite (I remove the claws for safety’s sake). Crickets and other insects, shrimp, and frozen foods formulated for large aquarium fish are also readily accepted.

After a time in captivity, most individuals will accept turtle pellets and freeze-dried shrimp.

Related Articles

Mudpuppy Care

Greater Siren Care

Amphiuma Natural History

Amphiuma Care: Keeping one of the World’s Largest Amphibians That Reptile Blog

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Description

To sand boa enthusiasts accustomed to the modestly-sized species typically seen in the pet trade, the Indian Sand Boa will seem impressively large and stout. The cylindrically-shaped adults average two feet in length, although some may reach nearly twice that size.

The small scales appear “polished”, and are colored reddish-brown or yellow-tinged tan. Certain individuals exhibit very beautiful hues of these colors, but all are attractive. The blunt tail closely resembles the head… when threatened, the Indian Sand Boa tucks its head into a protective ball of coils and presents the tail to its attacker. As an adaptation to life spent below ground, the wedge shaped head serves as a “spade”.

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Range and Habitat

The Indian Sand Boa’s range has not been well-studied, but it is known to occur in western and southern India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and, possibly, Nepal. A subspecies, the Persiche Sand Boa (E. j. persicus), is limited in range to Iran. Eleven related sand boa species are found in Africa, south Asia and the Middle East.

Arid, scrub-studded plains, semi-deserts, and rocky hillsides are the Indian Sand Boa’s preferred habitats. Life is spent below-ground, usually just beneath the surface, with the head partially exposed.

The Terrarium

A single adult may be housed in a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium. Indian Sand Boas must be provided course sand and smooth gravel in which to burrow. These secretive snakes rarely thrive if forced to shelter in caves – rather, body contact with the substrate is essential. However, some will remain beneath a piece of glass laid atop and partially covered by sand, and so may be easily observed.

Heat

Indian Sand Boas do well at an ambient temperature range of 78-85 F, and with a basking temperature of 90-95 F. As they rarely bask on the surface, a sub-tank heat pad should also be employed along with an incandescent bulb.

General Care

In common with other snakes hailing from arid habitats, the Indian Sand Boa produces dry, compact waste products. If droppings are removed regularly, there is usually little need to break down and clean the entire terrarium.

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As with the more commonly-kept Kenyan Sand Boa (please see photo), Indian Sand Boas must be kept dry, because skin and respiratory disorders develop rapidly in damp surroundings. Always use heavy water bowls that cannot be tipped over when the animal burrows. As other snakes are included in their diet, Indian Sand Boas are best housed alone, and should be watched carefully when paired for breeding.

Diet

Indian Sand Boas are highly-specialized ambush predators that wait below the sand for gerbils and other rodents, lizards and smaller snakes. To assist in this hunting strategy, the eyes and nostrils are placed high on the head, which is left partially exposed when they are hunting. Captives will literally explode from the sand to snatch mice moved about with a feeding tong…very impressive, and always a shock to the uninitiated!

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The jaws of the Indian Sand Boa are not well-suited to swallowing large meals. Except for extra-large individuals, young mice are preferable to adults as a food source. Youngsters should be fed once weekly, while adults do fine with a meal each 10-14 days.

Breeding

A short period of increased humidity may encourage breeding, but seems not essential.

The young are born alive after a gestation period of approximately 4 months. Due to their large size (nearly 1/3 that of the mother) and unique coloration (orange with black rings) newborn Indian Sand Boas command high prices.

Unlike the young of other sand boas, they are large enough to take pinkies, and rarely “demand” lizards as food.

Temperament

While most other sand boa species become stressed when removed from their subterranean hideaways, Indian Sand Boas often take short periods of gentle handling in stride. However, the smooth, glossy scales may render them difficult to control.

All sand boas have an ingrained feeding response that often causes them to strike if touched while buried, so take care when approaching your pet or working in the terrarium.

Further Reading

Breeding Indian and Kenyan Sand Boas

Boa Overview: Care and Natural History

Indian Sand Boa Care: Keeping the World’s Largest Sand Boa That Reptile Blog

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Captive-Bred vs. Wild Caught: This is much easier to check today than in years past. Lizards born in captivity do not drain wild populations, are less likely to harbor parasites or diseases, and are generally easier to handle than are their wild relatives. Please post below if you need help in this area.

Handle-ability and other Pet Qualities: Lizards will not seek human companionship. The words of legendary snake expert Bill Haast have some applicability to lizards as well: “You can have a snake for 30 years, but leave the cage open, and it’s gone – and it won’t come back unless you have a mouse in your mouth”!

Lizards definitely adjust to captivity, and some species accept handling better than others, but they should not be expected to be “friendly”.

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The “It Doesn’t Do Anything” Factor: Ideally, the new lizard owner will be interested in her or his pet for its own sake. But most of us wish to see how it lives, what it does, and so on. Many lizards, especially well-fed pets, are about as active as the infamous “pet rock”, although there are notable exceptions.

If you want action, consider a small species that actively forages for food, and keep it in a large, naturalistic terrarium. For example, a male and several female Green Anoles in a well-planted 55 gallon tank will provide you with infinitely more to observe than will an adult Green Iguana in a commercial iguana cage outfitted with a single shelf.

Cost: Your pet’s initial purchase price is but one part of the cost of lizard ownership, which also includes electricity use, veterinary care (as expensive as dog/cat care), food, enclosure, and so on.

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With some planning, you can easily limit costs. A Flying Gecko needs only a 10 gallon aquarium with a low-wattage basking bulb, and a diet of small live insects…much less expensive than a 6 foot-long Water Monitor kept in a room-sized cage supplied year-round with powerful heat lamps and UVB bulbs and feeding upon rats and other rodents.

Veterinary Care: Reptile-experienced veterinarians are difficult to find in many regions. It is a grave but common mistake to embark on lizard ownership before locating a veterinarian, or to imagine that even the hardiest of species will not require medical care.

Safety: All lizards, even the shyest and smallest, will bite when threatened, and they may react to scents, vibrations and other cues that we cannot perceive. Even minor bites should be treated by a doctor, to avoid infection, tetanus and other complications. Large monitors are best reserved for zoos or highly experienced keepers with the space and financial means to properly accommodate them.

While easily managed with proper hygiene, Salmonella, which is generally carried by all reptiles, presents grave risks to certain individuals. Please see the article linked below and contact your doctor for advice.

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Space: While Leopard Geckos and certain other lizards can make due with moderately-sized enclosures, you’ll see much more of interest if your pet has ample room to explore and forage. Be sure to research (feel free to post below) your lizard’s ultimate size and typical growth rate. And please remember – zoos will not accept unwanted pets and, even if native, they cannot be released into the wild!

Time Commitment: Depending upon the species and size of your pet, its care can range from a short, thrice-weekly task to a major daily chore. Long term care should also be considered – several popular pet species regularly live into their teens, while Leopard Geckos may reach 30 years of age!

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Most Lizards Need a Highly-Varied Diet: No insectivorous lizard will thrive long-term on a diet comprised solely of crickets and mealworms, even if these foods are powdered with supplements. I’ve done well by relying heavily upon wild-caught invertebrates during the warmer months.  Useful food species that you can buy include roaches, butterworms, calciworms, silkworms, hornworms and sow bugs.  Herbivorous lizards are easier to accommodate, but attention must still be given to providing species-specific variety.

Some monitors do well on diets comprised solely of mice and rats, but many of these are too large to be accommodated in typical private collections.

Further Reading

Feeding Insectivorous Lizards

Pet Lizards: Large, Small and Colorful Insectivores

Your First Pet Lizard: a Checklist of Things to Consider That Reptile Blog