My mutt Ace seems to interpret everything I say as action. To him, “ball” does not seem to represent the round toy on the floor, but it is a signal for “get the ball” or “find the ball.” “Water” does not represent the liquid in Ace’s dish, but to him it means “drink the water” or “go to your bowl.”

Obviously most of the words I’ve taught Ace were intended as commands – sit, stay, come, down, heel, roll over, speak, shake, back up, etc. (check out my post on how many words can a dog know?). But I’m convinced every word Ace recognizes is interpreted by him as action.

“Treat” is interpreted by Ace as “get your treat” or “take your treat.”

“Stick” is interpreted as “find a stick” or “fetch the stick.”

“Bed” is interpreted as “go to your bed.”

I’ve been thinking about this concept ever since I read a post about it on animal behaviorist Patricia McConnell’s blog. I thought I’d bring it up here to see what you thought.

Do you believe dogs understand nouns? Or is everything a verb to them?

Patricia wrote that she believes her border collie understands the names for certain people and other pets. She also writes about a dog’s ability to be taught to pick out specific objects from a group such as “rope toy” or “Kong toy.”

There are some very intelligent animals out there, but even when dogs are trained to distinguish between different but similar objects such as red ball vs. yellow ball, we can’t assume they understand the different labels we give the objects. “Red ball” might as well mean “get the red ball” or “touch the red ball” or “look at the red ball,” for example.

Can dogs identify individuals by their names?

Dogs do not give one another names. This is a foreign concept to them. They don’t name their puppies or recognize each other by the names we give them. Dogs know one another by scent and energy.

Ace does not necessarily understand that “Ace” is the word I’ve given to represent him. He certainly feels no ownership of his name. I doubt he understands that “Ace” means himself. He does understand that it means “pay attention” or even “come.” Even his own name implies action.

Many people swear their dogs know family members and other pets by name.

My dog-walking customers report they can say “Lindsay’s coming,” and the dogs will wait by the door for me before I arrive. But do the dogs really understand that I am Lindsay? More than likely, they understand that “Lindsay’s coming” means I will be arriving shortly to take them out for some fun.

“Lindsay” represents excitement, especially if the owner is using an excited tone of voice.

Ace recognizes the name of my cat, Scout, to mean “find the cat” or “give the cat kisses.” He doesn’t understand my cat’s name is Scout. He doesn’t seem to recognize my boyfriend Josh by name, either. But if I answer the phone saying “Hey, Josh,” Ace looks up expecting Josh to be in the room.

It could be that my dog is capable of understanding the labels for different people, animals, objects and places, but I am unable to see the evidence. Perhaps I haven’t bothered to teach him.

What do you think?

I just love this photo of Ace and his friend Koa. Love the depth to it, not to mention two gorgeous black dogs!

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I recently had a baby and realized weeks before I gave birth that it wasn’t just going to change my life, but my two dogs’ lives as well! In a panic, I started researching websites and calling vets to find out what the best techniques for introducing a baby into the family were.

I know my dogs pretty well since I raised them from puppies. At a young age, we started walking these little pups around the neighborhood. We would take them to pet friendly stores to socialize them with strangers and meet kids at the bus stop, but babies were another story. Fortunately, I received some great advice that actually worked!

Tips for introducing your dog to a baby

1. Leave baby items out for the dogs to get used to.

The further along you are, the more “baby stuff” you’ll have around the house. Leave items such as diapers, baby powder, toys and the car seat out for the dogs to sniff and get used to. The earlier you set up the crib, changing table, baby swing, playpen, etc., the better. Start setting boundaries for what the dogs can and can’t approach. Be consistent and reward them for calm behavior.

2. Buy a baby doll.

Preferably, find a doll that cries. Wipe it down with a little baby powder to get the dogs used to the smell. Do all the same things with the baby doll that you will do with your newborn. Carry the doll around. Place it in the baby swing. Place it on a blanket on the floor. Allow the dogs to gently sniff the doll after you’ve given them permission. No dogs should be allowed to charge up to you and the baby. Teach them to remain calm and give you and the baby space.

Once the dogs are familiar with the smell and look of the doll, see what happens when the baby doll cries. It may take some time, but this is the most reassuring test you can give the dogs.

3. Give your dogs enough exercise.

Make time for your first babies. You will be irritable and tired and sleeping any chance you get, so even if you only walk your pups for 5-10 minutes a day, do it!

Plan ahead about which family member will provide the dogs with longer walks when you can’t. Hire a professional dog runner or dog walker if necessary. If you can walk the dogs while you stroll with the baby (I advise to get someone to help you do this at first), it’s a great way to get all your “babies” used to each other. Make sure the dogs walk safely and calmly at your side and not in front of your baby. It’s a great idea to practice walking the dogs and the stroller together before the baby arrives!

4. Introduce the dogs to the baby calmly.

When you finally arrive with the baby, have someone else take the baby into another room as you greet your pets calmly. Have treats ready to reward them for good behavior, and slowly bring the baby out to meet your mutts. Make the dogs sit or lie down and respect your space. Don’t get the dogs extra excited by talking in a high-pitched voice. Stay calm in order to help the dogs stay calm.

5. Seek help from a professional if your dogs have aggression issues.

If your dogs have displayed aggressive behaviors in the past, there are classes specifically designed for this type of situation, so check with your vet, a local trainer or local rescue if you have concerns.

6. Establish clear rules and a routine with your dogs before the baby arrives.

A new baby in the house will be enough of a change for your dogs, so maintain as much of their usual routine as possible. Get the dogs used to changes before the baby arrives. Maybe you want the dogs to be in their kennels more often. Start doing that a few months before the baby is born. Maybe you want the dogs to stay out of the baby’s room or out of your room or off the furniture. Establish these rules ahead of time so there are fewer adjustments once the baby arrives.

Do you have any advice for introducing a dog to a new baby?

For more info, see my post on how to get my dog used to children.

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I’ve never gone to a dog adoption event without some idiot allowing his stressed-out dog to charge right up to the dog I’m handling.

Last week I was handling a sweet, laid-back American pit bull terrier named Jada who is a bit dog aggressive. Even after I told other handlers that “my” dog doesn’t do well with other dogs, more than one allowed his or her dog to run right up to Jada’s face. This is not fair to any dog, especially one who is learning how to socialize properly with others.

People are great at setting up their dogs and other people’s dogs for failure. When you’re dealing with powerful breeds, the mistakes can be huge.

Luckily, when dogs do get into scuffles, it’s usually “talk” and no bite. There’s a lot of growling and barking, but no one gets hurt. It sounds bad to us, but the dogs move on immediately.

Handling a rescue dog at adoption events is one of the most rewarding things I can do as a dog lover and trainer. I love helping a dog learn, socialize and have some fun while hopefully meeting the right family. But going to these events also challenges me, because I never know what other people are going to do.

Below are some tips I use to survive situations where a lot of dogs with different energy levels and irresponsible owners are together in a small space.

How to avoid meeting other dogs head on

1. Avoid standing against walls or barriers.

When I’m sitting against the wall with “my” dog, it’s hard to move away from other dogs that charge us. If you’re standing or sitting at an adoption event, a dog show or a training class, don’t sit where your dog could feel trapped. You will have nowhere to go if another dog approaches you.

I’ve also found that sitting on the ground helps me control my dog easier because I’m at her level with less slack in the leash.

2. Walk into your dog so she has to back away from the other dog.

I see a lot of people frantically pulling back on tense leashes. Pulling creates more tension and excitement which will encourage the dog to resist and pull even harder. This often leads to lunging, barking and “choking.”

It’s much more effective to calmly turn into your dog and walk right into her. Don’t kick her, just claim her space. This will distract her from the other dog and cause her to back away while looking up at you. This is the perfect time to offer her a treat. Breaking eye contact between the two dogs will help re-direct the other dog’s attention, too. It should also send a clear message to its owner that an interaction at this time would be a bad idea.

3. Be direct with people about your dog’s aggression issues.

Most people assume all dogs are friendly, even if theirs isn’t. Make sure to tell other owners that your dog does not do well with other dogs. You’ll probably still have to move away from some people, because certain individuals just don’t get it. I know at least one man who thinks handling an aggressive dog makes him a bad ass.

4. Remain calm.

I know this is easier said then done. Most of us have to consciously remind ourselves not to overreact or tense up, especially if we’re predicting the worst. The more relaxed you are, the more relaxed your dog will be.

5. Challenge your dog in small ways.

Look for laid-back, submissive dogs and explain to their owners that you would like your dog to start meeting other dogs. Be upfront with them if she has aggression issues. Keep the leashes relaxed and allow each dog to smell the other’s butt before they make direct eye contact (awkward, I know). If the dogs seem OK with one another and there is no tension, let them sniff for a few seconds, but quit while your dog is successful.

6. Take breaks.

Do not push your dog too far. If she seems stressed or excited, take her for a short walk away from everyone else and return once she is calmer. If the situation seems too overwhelming for your dog, don’t be afraid to leave early.

7. If mistakes happen, forgive yourself and move on.

When you’re dealing with excited dogs and inexperienced handlers, there are going to be some scuffles. Use these as learning experiences so you do not make the same mistakes multiple times. If your dog lunges or snaps, do not overreact. And don’t overreact if someone else’s dog tries to attack your dog. Re-gain control of the situation and move on.

8. Use treats to distract your dog.

Treats are a great way to draw your dog’s attention away from another dog. Just make sure you are not using treats to reward excited, nervous or aggressive behavior. Also watch for any food possessiveness, which could bring out aggression.

9. Move away from aggressive or excited dogs.

Predict bad situations before they happen and avoid them. Excited, unsocialized dogs will try to run up to your dog. Just move away from these dogs before something bad happens. You can’t control what other people allow their dogs to do, but you can control your own dog.

Stay aware of other people’s dogs and your dog at all times. You cannot check out for even a second. It’s common to see a handler completely focused on someone else’s cute puppy while her own dog is frantically pulling in the opposite direction after another dog. Not good.

10. Control your dog’s energy with exercise and an appropriate collar.

Providing your dog with enough exercise beforehand will help you avoid head-on confrontations because your dog will be less likely to barge up to other dogs. Make sure to use a collar that will give you the most control of your dog. I recommend the pinch collar. If you are uncomfortable with this, then use a Halti or Gentle Leader. Choke or martingale collars do not give you a lot of control in “exciting” situations.

Do you have experience with people who allow their aggressive dogs to run right up to other dogs? What did you do?

For more information on introducing dogs, check out my posts on how to introduce dogs.

Jada is up for adoption with 4 Luv of Dog Rescue. She is in need of a foster home. She is very friendly with all people and would do OK with a laid-back male dog if introduced properly.

Related posts:

1. Euthanizing aggressive dogs
2. Pitbull for adoption, Fargo
3. Black dog adoption
4. A home for all rescue dogs

You can’t afford your dog? Here’s news for you: dogs cost a lot of money! You should’ve thought about that when you picked out your puppy.

He’s too big and untrainable? Guess what? All German shepherds are big! Try obedience classes.

In reality, though, some circumstances require good owners to surrender their animals. I know I would probably live in a cardboard box before giving up my dog, but I have had a month or two where paying vet bills and buying dog food were very low priorities. I think we’ve all been there in one way or another.

Sure, dogs are a 10- to 15-year commitment, but you can’t predict life.

No one plans on losing a job (or two). No one plans on losing a vehicle or a home.

You can’t predict a life-threatening illness or an accident. You can’t predict losing a spouse. You can’t predict a natural disaster.

Basic care for a dog can easily cost $1,000 per year. If the dog has any medical problems at all, you can easily double that number. Add training, grooming and boarding costs for the year and you can add another $1,000. Dogs are expensive, especially if you have more than one.

If you love your dog but for whatever reason you just can’t afford her, below are some suggestions for finding temporary financial help. Sometimes it is in the dog’s best interest to find her a new home. Further down, you will find tips for re-homing your dog.

How to get financial assistance for pet care

1. Take advantage of local resources.

If you are unsure what your community has to offer as far as help with dog care, start by contacting your local dog rescue or humane society. Rescues and shelters are overwhelmed with homeless animals and will take the time to help someone if it means he will be able to keep his dog.

2. Ask about ‘dog food banks’ and similar programs.

In my community of Fargo, N.D., there is a program called Kibble Kitchen organized by 4 Luv of Dog Rescue. According to the rescue, the goal of Kibble Kitchen is to prevent dogs from going hungry. Food is distributed on an as-needed basis to those who apply.

Some food banks provide pet food and some do not. If you are unsure whether a food bank in your area distributes pet food, call and ask.

3. Contact the breeder or rescue where you purchased the dog.

A responsible rescue, shelter or breeder will assist you in any way they can with your dog. Contact the rescue or breeder where you got your dog and describe your situation honestly. The rescue or breeder may be able to provide temporary foster care or they might recommend other programs and resources that could help.

A responsible breeder or shelter will also be willing to take your dog back if it is in the dog’s best interest. In this case, don’t expect to be paid anything, and don’t assume you will get the dog back.

4. Find your dog a foster home.

Another option is to find your dog a temporary foster home on your own. No one wants to announce their financial problems to the world, but within your close circle of family and friends, there may be someone who would love to take your dog for a few months. If you know a family thinking about getting a dog, this could be a great opportunity for them to “test the waters.”

5. Look for free or discounted vaccination clinics.

The PAAWS Project in Fargo provides affordable spaying, neutering and vaccinations to those who qualify. Certain rescues and shelters in other areas provide discounted services as well.

How to find my dog a new home

The reality is, sometimes we do have to find new homes for our pets. Here are some tips for making this process a bit easier:

1. Realize that finding a dog a good home takes time.

The sooner you accept you have to give up your dog, the better. It can take weeks or months to find your dog a good home. You don’t want to be forced to suddenly give up your dog because you have no other choice. That’s how dogs end up killed in pounds. Plan ahead and accept reality for the dog’s sake.

2. Do not plan on making money off your dog.

Profiting from your dog is the wrong reason to give her up. Finding her a good home should be your priority. Remember that re-homing the dog will save you thousands of dollars over time. If you surrender your dog to a rescue or shelter, it will likely ask you to make a donation.

3. Remember that dogs adapt easily to new homes.

It’s the humans who bring emotion into a situation. Dogs are animals, and they have a tremendous ability to move on and live in the moment. Within a reasonable amount of time, any dog will adapt to almost any environment.

4. Interview potential adopters.

Put together a list of questions to ask potential adopters such as: Have you owned a dog before? How much exercise do you believe a large/small dog needs? How often are you home? Where will the dog sleep at night? Where will the dog be when left home alone? Are you going to continue training the dog? Why do you want a dog? How do you discipline a dog?

You should also ask for references (check them!) and do a home visit. If someone has a problem with any of these, then he should assume he will not be getting your dog!

5. Provide as much information about your dog as possible.

The more honest you are about the dog, the easier it will be to match her up with the best home. Be honest about the training (or lack of training) she’s had, her energy levels and how she interacts with other animals. Think about the details people would want to know about her. Is she scared of storms? Does she have separation anxiety? Does she pull on the leash? Is she food aggressive? Is she dominant? Does she know any tricks?

6. Do not plan on getting the dog back.

You are the one giving up the dog. Once you find her a new home, the dog is theirs. Do not expect to get the dog back once your financial situation improves. Do not expect to stay in contact with the dog’s new owners unless they suggest it. Do not drop by unannounced to check on the dog.

For more on this issue, see my post on should I stay in contact with my dog’s previous owner?

7. Surrender the dog to a credible, no-kill rescue group as your last resort.

Shelters were designed to rescue dogs from the pound. They were not designed to take in unwanted pets from individuals, and they are already stretching their resources. Expecting a rescue or shelter to take the dog off your hands is irresponsible. It is your job to find your dog a new home.

If you surrender your dog to a pound, just assume she will be euthanized.

8. Advertise on Craigslist, rescue sites and the newspaper.

“Advertise” by word of mouth first, because once you put an ad in the classifieds or on Craigslist you could get bombarded with tons of interested adopters, many of them less than ideal. But if you have a large dog or any kind of “bully breed,” you may need some extra help finding her a home. Many rescues will allow individuals to post dogs as “courtesy postings.” That’s how I found my mutt Ace.

9. Expect to grieve.

Pets are family, and re-homing a dog will be like losing a family member. Don’t expect to move on as though nothing happened. Take your time to grieve, and remember your dog has gone to a good home because you took the time to find her that home.

10. Adopt another animal once you are financially stable.

Re-homing an animal does not make you a bad person no matter what anyone says. It certainly does not mean you should never adopt an animal again. There are way too many dogs and cats without homes. Look forward to providing a loving home for a dog or cat in the future.

Have you ever found a new home for your dog or cat? What advice do you have for others? Where can someone go if he needs help affording dog care?

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I used to be the training manager for one of the largest protection dog companies on earth. As a company we would import some of the finest dogs from Europe to the United States and would spend months training them to protect home and family, be obedient companions and be the best pets anyone could ever hope for.

The investment for dogs of this caliber was regularly $25,000 per dog and up, and nearly every client we worked with would attest to how valuable an investment it was to have an impeccably obedient canine companion that could also guard them.

By the time we were done with these high-priced dogs, they would respond quickly and accurately to 20 or 30 commands.

Do you want to know the funny thing, though? After owning one of these dogs for months, most clients would report back that although the dog would obey any command quickly and happily, there were really only two or three commands used on a daily basis. Most clients would have need to tell their dog “come,” “down,” “come-on” and not much beyond that.

As people we are very verbal creatures. We talk and talk, and when we aren’t talking we turn on the radio or television to listen to and watch other people talk. It is very natural for us to also want to talk to our dogs. This is fine; there is no problem with this.

The problem, though, is in the commands we give our dogs. We give them too many! If you were to categorize and document the commands most people give their dogs on a daily basis you might find a list of 20 or more. What I’ve found is that most dogs are far better off with better selected and fewer commands. In fact, most people could easily stand to trim a list of 20 commands down to six or seven.

What do I mean by that? Most people I see tell their dogs to “sit” and then “stay.” Why bother saying “stay” once your dog has sat or lied down on command? You already told him to sit; you didn’t release your dog. If your dog does get up from a sitting position before you’ve asked him, you don’t have a “stay” problem, you’ve got a problem getting your dog to understand what “sit” means.

If you ask your child to clean his or her room and the child picks up one toy, do you call that good? Of course not. Your request isn’t complete until the child has finished picking up the room.

I teach my dogs that once I’ve asked them to sit, lie down, wait at the door, heel by my side, come when called, etc., to keep doing it until I’ve asked them to do something else or released them. I call it my “concept of permanence” and in doing so I only have to ask my dogs to lie down once, to heel once, to come once and so on.

It doesn’t stop there, though. I go into so many homes where the dog owner has a dozen words for the dog’s issues. When the dog jumps, the owner says “off,” “down” and “no jump.” When the puppy nips, the owner says “ouch,” “no bite” and “easy.” Why muddy the waters with so many commands? If your dog does something you don’t like, why not stick to a single word like “no” or “uh-uh”?

The bottom line is dogs are smart. If we need them to understand 20 commands, they can do it. Personally, though, I like to simplify things for them so we’re not giving needless commands. The more commands you give, the easier it is for those commands to become ignored.

Happy training.

Do you use a stay command? What do you think of weeding this command out of your training?

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If you’ve met me in “real life,” then you know I can be incredibly quiet. I’m actually great at making normal situations pretty awkward. That may be where my desire to write comes from. I suck at telling stories – at making conversation – so instead I write.

I have loved dogs as long as I can remember, the same is true about writing. My first memory of a dog is holding the water spaniel pup we got when I was 2 or 3 years old. She was a dark, curly fur-ball, and she and I didn’t grow too close. The older I get, I’ve noticed, the more attached I become to my dogs.

My parents bought a golden retriever puppy when I was 3. I remember visiting the breeder where what seemed like dozens of red dogs jumped and barked at me from behind a chain-link fence. We must have been going to choose our pup or to meet her parents.

I can’t recall life without dogs around, and it’s difficult to recall a time when I was unable to write. I remember drawing wavy lines and asking my mom what it said. I just assumed my “writing” meant something and that she would be able to tell me what. I like to think she told me it could mean whatever I wanted.

At that age, I had already lived with three different dogs. My parents had a tennis-ball obsessed black lab waiting for me the week I came home from the hospital as a newborn. I suppose Jessie had an important job – she taught an infant to love dogs.

One of my first journals was from the summer when I was 7 and we took a family vacation to the Black Hills in South Dakota. My entries are mostly lists of the different animals I spotted in the badlands, Custer State Park and “Bear Country, USA.” Among my mentions of black bears, deer, pronghorn and buffalo are several observations about dogs.

From that time, I’ve written pages and pages of fiction and nonfiction – a lot about dogs, some not. Some is good writing, most isn’t.

Just as dog lovers have to own dogs, writers have to write. And they have to be heard, too. Thank God for blogs, although I once heard the average blog has 1.5 readers. If I have three, I guess I’m doing pretty well (hi, Ma!).

At the moment, I am working on a book about the happiness of dogs, an exciting challenge for me. I will be looking at different human-dog pairs and how our dogs are happy no matter who they’re “stuck with.” As I move further along with this project, I will look forward to seeking feedback from readers of That Mutt.

Sometimes I have to remind myself how lucky I am to be able to accomplish my goals in life: Relax. Explore. Understand dogs. Write.

For me, there will always be early mornings, pen in hand, dog at my feet. There will always be late nights, glowing laptop screen, dog still at my feet.

There will always be more dogs to rescue, to train, to run. And when there are dogs, there is always more inspiration to write.

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We love to teach our dogs tricks, as they are fun for the owner and the dog alike if taught properly. Most dogs learn tricks faster than they learn “obedience behaviors,” because our attitude is relaxed and fun.

A trick that every dog should know is how to “bow.”

Using a high valued dog treat will ensure more cooperation from your pup. Give your dog one treat to let him know just how yummy they are. Next, place a treat right at your dog’s nose. Allow the dog to smell and even lick the treat throughout the whole exercise. When he is interested and engaged, slowly lower the treat to the floor.

Most dogs will follow the treat down with their nose to the point that their elbows touch the floor. At this point mark the behavior with a “yes” or “good” and feed him the treat. You may have to pull the treat down between the paws and then towards the dog’s body to get the exaggerated pose. If your dog lowers his rear end too, just keep your other hand gently under his belly to keep his rear up. Over time, you can phase this part of the trick away.

Once the dog is performing the action, add your command just before you lower the treat. Your command can be anything from “bow” to “TaDaaaa!”

When you train a dog to bow, you get several benefits. A bow with the front end down and the back end up, is what most dogs do to initiate play from another dog or person. The bow should naturally put your dog in a calm and playful mood.

For health benefits, the bow is also a form of stretching that your dog does upon first waking up. The stretch is good for his spine, joints and muscles. It is also a calming behavior when done slow like a stretch. As dogs age, they tend to stretch less. Having taught him to bow, you will now be able to help an older dog stretch his aging body.

Finally, the bow will always be the grand finale during your show to family and friends!

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To me, the ability to take my mutt almost anywhere is the whole point of having a dog. I specifically adopted Ace because of his calm manner and athleticism – perfect for all kinds of adventures. Training and socializing him is an ongoing process and one of the most rewarding pieces to my life.

Every walk and every second of training and interacting Ace and I do together has lead us to where we are now. It is not a specific run we went on or a specific obedience class we took that matters. It is the cumulation of time. Ace is a 4-year-old dog; I can’t wait to see what we accomplish in the coming years.

I see a lot of dog owners who are OK owning a dog that is out of control during a walk. A dog that is overly stimulated just by seeing another dog is completely acceptable to most people. A dog that spins in circles or pants all the time seems normal as well.

I suppose this is OK. Although the dog is never calm, she doesn’t know what she’s missing. The same is true for her owner. I just wish every dog owner understood that every dog is capable of being well-mannered, socialized and calm. There is no secret on how to accomplish this. It doesn’t take a “professional.” What it takes is time and patience.

My dog went on one walk during the first year of his life, and that was so his owner would be able to tell potential adopters how his leash manners were – terrible.

My dog would strangle himself whenever we came across other dogs during his first week with me. He had to learn his name, how to sit on command, how to use patience. He had to learn to pause and think rather than just react.

With hundreds of walks in countless neighborhoods, parks and trails, Ace has learned how to relax in different environments.

I’ve made it my goal to take him somewhere new every Monday. Not necessarily somewhere he’s never been, but somewhere out of our usual routine. It could be a new neighborhood, a different park or dog business in town. It could be a playground or a nursing home, downtown or out in the country. The point is to expose my dog to as many new sights, smells, sounds, people, dogs, other animals and experiences as possible.

I don’t know how to explain how rewarding it was to take my dog to the lake with a group of friends last weekend and have him fit in almost seamlessly. I was worried he would feel anxious and whine in the car, but my additional work with him on driving to new places, creating new challenges and providing good exercise (thanks Amanda and Eli!) really paid off.

When a dog is well behaved, you can forget he is there.

Believe me, though, I never forgot Ace was there. I always had one eye on my dog, whether he was sunning himself on the boat, lying on the dock or resting by the fire. The fact that he could exist almost unnoticed amongst a group of people was one of the best unspoken compliments to me as a dog owner and trainer.

I did not have to constantly reward Ace or give commands or even leash him. The communication between us was subtle – eye contact, calm energy, the occasional pat on the back in exchange for tail wags.

My dog can really challenge me, upset me and embarrass me. But boy does he make me proud.

Ace is a good boy.

(Thanks Brian P. for providing the campfire photo)

Related posts:

1. Dog behavior issues
2. How to calm an excited dog
3. Dog kennel training
4. How to break a dog’s possessiveness

Allergies can be a real pain to deal with when your dog is being afflicted with them. Usually the first sign is your dog will scratch herself more then usual. The first thing owners will usually do is check the dog’s skin for fleas or ticks. If you detect no biting insects, then the culprit is usually an allergy (though some allergies are caused from insect bites).

Some dogs are more prone to skin allergies than others. These dogs are usually ones that have either double coats like an akita or a chow or that have very thick fur like a poodle or a bichon. That does not mean that short-haired dogs are immune to skin allergies. Many dogs suffer from this condition, and there are a number of factors that contribute to it.

Common symptoms of skin allergies in dogs:

1. Excessive biting, licking and or scratching of the skin
2. Red and swollen skin
3. Flaky and dry skin
4. Chronic ear infections

These symptoms will increase or decrease depending on exposure to what is causing the allergic reaction. Many times it can be as simple as a common household item. These can be household cleaning chemicals, perfumes, chemicals in a new carpet or air fresheners. Other times it is something they pick up from being outdoors. It can also come from something in their diet that does not agree with their body chemistry.

Eliminate the source of your dog’s allergies

The first step is always to try to eliminate the source of the allergy. You can start by trying to eliminate products one by one that could be causing the problem until you find what the problem is.

If your dog has had a recent change in her diet, that is usually the first place to start. Avoiding commercially processed foods, especially ones with bread or grain fillers, is a good way to control most diet-based skin allergies. Look for natural or grain free dog food.

If you do go with store bought foods, go with brands that have the fewest ingredients possible and have a high meat content with possible vegetables like carrots and peas. Our dog suffered from food allergies and a diet change helped get rid of them. It turned out that the added ingredients like guar gum were the culprits to his allergies. Once we changed his diet, the problems ceased. We were mostly certain his problems were diet related since he wasn’t exposed to chemicals or changes to his environment.

If your dog’s skin allergy goes untreated for too long she can develop bacterial infections, so it is best to get treatment early. If left untreated your dog can wind up very sick and develop dangerous illnesses that can even threaten her life. The dog could also develop ugly sore spots that get inflamed from over chewing, scratching or licking.

Allergy testing for dogs

If you do take your dog to the vet, the vet may suggest a simple blood test to determine the problem. Although cheaper, a blood test is nowhere near as accurate as an intradermal skin test.

The dog is usually (but doesn’t have to be) sedated during an intradermal skin test. The vet will shave an area on the dog’s body and inject small amounts of different allergens into the dog’s skin in patterns. This allows the vet to determine if any of the potential allergens cause your dog to react and identify the true culprit.

Be prepared to pay $300 or more for an intradermal skin test. Not all vets are trained to do allergy testing, so you may have to make an appointment with a specialist.

As a temporary allergy relief, many vets will prescribe Benadryl. This helps reduce the itching at the price of causing drowsiness in the dog. Benadryl helps ease your dog’s suffering until the source of the problem is identified, but it should not be used as a long-term fix for more than a week or so.

If you suspect your dog has allergies, make sure to visit your local vet to get your dog treated while the symptoms are still early.

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The rescue I work with said over Facebook that the Fourth of July is one of the busiest times for pounds and shelters because so many dogs get scared and bolt from their owners. This is a good example of why we should be desensitizing our dogs to loud noises during every season, not just fireworks season.

Puppies should be socialized to all kinds of noises and experiences from a very young age. Those of us who adopt adult dogs have an even bigger responsibility because many of these dogs come to us with existing phobias or insecurities. Many dogs are overstimulated just by going for a walk. Imagine what these dogs are feeling when they hear noises as loud as gunshots.

How do I get my dog used to loud noises?

Here are some tips for desensitizing your dog to random, loud sounds:

1. Seek out situations with loud noises.

It’s not hard to find loud noises. Walk past a busy highway with semis. Walk by a train. Seek out people mowing the lawn. Ask someone to honk a car horn or to play a musical instrument. Ask someone to drop a large book or a can full of coins. Don’t try to scare your dog, but expose her to as many sounds as possible.

2. Walk your dog in different environments.

Walking in different areas will help expose your dog to new sounds. If you live in the country, walk your dog in the suburbs or the city where there’s more traffic, people and commotion. If you live in the city, go out in the country where there are different sounds like tractors, gunshots, farm animals or snowmobiles. Go to a lake where there are boats and jet-skis.

3. Act like the noise doesn’t exist.

If you react to a noise, then your dog will also react. When you are trying to desensitize a dog to a noise, the best thing you can do is pretend you don’t hear anything. Don’t even look at your dog. If you look at her, it shows that you expect a reaction. Just keep right on walking like you didn’t notice anything.

4. Do not coddle your dog when she’s fearful.

Petting, holding or verbally comforting an insecure dog will communicate to her that there is a reason to be scared. You will only reinforce her fearful behavior.

Also be careful not to reward a fearful dog by giving her treats. Treats should be used as rewards and as encouragement, but make sure you are rewarding the dog only when she is calm. If your dog is really stressed, she probably won’t accept treats anyway.

5. Don’t correct a fearful dog.

I do not recommend correcting a very anxious dog when the cause of her anxiety is a loud noise. Yelling “NO!” at the dog, jerking her collar or shocking her will generally make her more anxious. Instead, ignore unwanted behavior and reward the dog when she’s calm.

6. Distract the dog from the noise with something fun.

A tennis ball works great for distracting Ace when something “scary” is going on. He is slowly being desensitized to gunshots, and I do this by throwing his ball around and playing while someone shoots in the background. This helps Ace get used to the noise without focusing directly on it. We carry on with our game of fetch as though the noise doesn’t exist.

7. If your dog is very scared, try again later.

It’s normal for a dog to jump at the sound of a sudden noise. Who doesn’t? But it’s not normal for the dog to remain startled. If your dog seems very scared, then slowly get away from the noise and try again later. Don’t run away quickly as though you are also scared because this will make the dog more anxious. Just walk away in a calm, controlled manner.

Signs of a very upset or scared dog include heavy panting and drooling, pulling on the leash in an attempt to bolt or frantically trying to climb into the owner’s lap. Some dogs will bark or cry nonstop and others will begin to shut down completely. If Ace is afraid, he will lie with his tail between his legs, ears back, eyes shut and head on the ground.

8. Do not medicate a dog.

There are rare instances where a dog needs to be sedated for her own safety. This is up to each vet and dog owner to decide, but I don’t recommend it. Drugging a dog puts her into an unnatural state and prevents her from learning to calm down on her own. Some anti-anxiety medications will cause dogs to feel confused and disoriented which can bring out aggression. Sedatives can take a good half-hour or more to work and can affect the dog for hours after the fireworks display has ended.

Some dog owners insist on using natural calming products for their anxious dogs. I’ve tried some of these with my foster dogs, and these products are a waste of money. What an anxious dog needs most of all is time, patience and understanding, not drugs.

9. Do not rush a fearful dog.

Desensitizing a dog to a loud noise can sometimes take weeks, months or years. Do not push a dog too far or you will end up taking a few steps back. Many dogs end up being “gun shy” because their “trainers” pushed them too quickly and had unreasonable expectations. Every dog is different. Some are naturally more comfortable around noises and some take a long time to realize loud noises are usually no big deal.

10. Realize that training and socialization are never over.

I’m always bringing my mutt Ace to new places so he can experience more. I want to have a dog that is comfortable in all situations so he can visit more places without making a scene. I will never be done socializing him to different environments, sounds, people and animals.

What do I do if my dog is afraid of fireworks?

If your dog is afraid of fireworks, thunder or gunshots, you have a few options:

1. Use the fireworks as a learning opportunity for your dog.

If Ace were afraid of fireworks, I would make sure to take him out for some fun every time I heard fireworks. I would bring all kinds of treats and goodies like pieces of hot dogs or chicken and some tennis balls and head out for a walk, rewarding him for any calm behavior. I would ignore anxious behavior such as panting, whining or pulling on the leash and distract him with favorite toys, chasing games, obedience training and tasty treats.

If you do decide to take your dog for a walk during fireworks, make sure you have a collar she can’t slip through. Dogs that are freaked out can easily slip through nylon collars, choke collars, Gentle Leaders and harnesses. I recommend a Halti with a safety strap or a prong collar, and make sure your dog is wearing ID tags.

A dog that is extremely anxious around fireworks can learn there is no reason to be afraid. It just takes a lot of creativity, time and patience. The more fearful your dog is, the more important it is for you to be a calm, relaxed leader.

2. Provide your dog with a safe, secure place to hide out.

Allowing your dog to hide out in a safe place during fireworks will not help her overcome her fear, but for some people this is the most convenient option. Some people do not have the time or energy to work with the dog, and the next best thing is to keep the dog safe.

The safest place to put an anxious dog is in a kennel. Fearful dogs are more likely to damage property, injure themselves or go to the bathroom indoors. This is just one more reason why it’s so important to kennel train your dog at a young age.

If your dog feels secure in her kennel or in a small room, then it’s OK to let her hide out there for a while. Leave a radio or TV on and a fan to create white noise. Provide her with things to chew such as rawhides or Kong toys filled with peanut butter. Chewing helps a dog relax. A stressed dog will often lick or bite her paws. By providing her with something good to chew on, she won’t develop self-destructive behaviors.

There are some blankets and T-shirts out there designed to fit snuggly around the dog in order to make her feel secure during a thunderstorm. I have never used one of these products, but I imagine they would have a small effect on some dogs. Like people, dogs also feel more secure when snuggled up.

Is your dog scared of fireworks? What tips do you have for desensitizing a dog to scary noises?

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