The 3D Printer

Freedom of Fabrication

2012-03-26T13:44:00.000+08:00

Huxley - RepRapPro

2012-03-24T13:49:00.000+08:00

Supplier: RepRapPro.com
Price: USD735

3D Knot

2012-03-12T00:09:00.000+08:00

[Picture]

Build Size: 46mm x 51mm x 38mm

GCode: Skeinforge49

Crave > Layer height:

Speed > Speed Feed and Flow Rate: 30.0

solid fill rate
infill width over thickness (ratio): 1.5 (default 1.5)
increase value to reduce extruded plastic
decrease value to expand extruded plastic
if solid layers had too little plastic or too sparce and
you have tiny gaps between filament make this number smaller.

Dimension
Extruder Retraction Speed (mm/s)
Retraction Distance (mm) :

Install Pronterface with Skeinforge

2012-03-06T15:56:00.001+08:00

Install Printrun Pronterface Host Software with Skeinforge.

Computer: Windows 7 Pro 64-bits

Requirements

Python Software
PrintRun
Skeinforge

Python Software
Upgraded Kliment/PrintRun windows dependencies to support Windows 7 64-bit:

Added Python path manually:

Click image to Zoom-in

PrintRun Software

Install PrintRun

Skeinforge Software

Download Romscraj custom Skeinforge41
Follow the Instructions from the site.

Troubleshooting

2012-03-04T22:51:00.000+08:00

General

The object printed not in circle or round

Pulley loose on the motor shaft?
Put a small flat on the shaft
Giving the stepper more torqued
Filament dragging on the head.
Too little motor current.

Extruder

Extruder not moving
You need the skeinforge -> dimension module loaded to generate E codes, which drive the extruder.

Heater not heating when raft module disabled
The raft module also controls preheating. To stop printing rafts, simply set the layer-counts in the raft module to 0, rather than disabling it.

Motors

Motors make significant noise.
This generally means you have too much current.

Motor vibrates on the spot.
This generally means that you don't have sufficient current to the motors.

A motor vibrates but does not turn
Adjust current setting resistor and/or decrease motor speed

A motor turn forward but not backward
Connect the end-stop and the motor will go both ways. When the end-stops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position.

The motor move on wrong direction
It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by

changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the 4-wire 1-2-3-4 order with 4-3-2-1 the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa
OR
'Inverting axis direction' at firmware configuration.h file. Changing the INVERT_X_DIR (substitute Y, Z as needed) by changing it from true(1) to false(0) or back.

Axis movement pauses momentarily and then resumes.

You may have too much current going to the motor which is causing the pololu to over-heat. Reduce the current.
Try increasing the baud rate setting BAUDRATE(Configuration.h) to 115200 or 250000

Note: This can also be caused by firmware but check your motors first.

How to reduce or increase motor current
Each Pololu has a trimpot located next to the heatsink. The trimpot controls the current that is sent to each motor. Turning the trimpot counter-clockwise reduces the current to the motor, turning it clockwise increases the current to the motor.

Start by adjusting the trimpot down until your motor vibrates on the spot rather than turning cleanly. Now turn the trimpot in a clockwise direction in small increments (1 eighth of a turn) until the motors just start running. Then give the trim port a final turn of about 1 eighth of a turn and your should be good to go.

Generation 6 Electronics

Calibration With Prints

2012-03-04T16:52:00.000+08:00

Material: PLA (Romscraj.com)
Heater: 180C
Bed: 60C

Characteristic:
Nozzle: 0.5mm
Layer height: 0.4mm
Width over Height (W/H): 1.25
Feed Rate: 30.0
Flow Rate: 30.0
Skeinforge settings: more settings..

Software Requirements:

OpenScad

Bed Leveling
[Picture]
Filename: bedleveling.scad
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z):
Objective: Level the print bed so that your objects will adhere to the surface.

Instructions: Use Pronterface to Home all the axises (X, Y and Z). Turn off the printer power and disconnect the printer USB cable from the computer. Make sure the thickness(distance) between the nozzle and the bed is like a piece of paper . Adjust the four screws at your printer bed by move your nozzle (X and Y carriages) with the direction from the bottom left to bottom right, to top right corner, to top left corner and back to bottom left corner. Make sure the bed center is level.

Print the file and ensure that each square is even, smooth and consistent. Download the original scad file so that you can change the dimensions to match your print bed.

Note: Remember to deactivate Skirt (Crave > Crave > Skirt)

Wall Thickness Calibration
[Picture]
Filename: thin-wall-0.5mm-20x20x10mm.stl
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z): 70mm x 74mm x 4mm(0.8 + 3.2)

Test for certain wall thicknesses:
0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 and 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2

Generate a new STL file with OpenSCAD for the below setting:

BaseThickness=0.8; //~2 layers
2 layers with skeinforge layer height is 0.4mm (2 x 0.4mm)
FeatureHeight=3.2;
8 layers with skeinforge layer height is 0.4mm (8 x 0.4mm)

Layer Height Calibration
[Picture]

Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z): 20mm x 20mm x 10mm
Objective: to correct the layer height settings to reflect your printers actual layer height.
Calibration Object: 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl
Instructions: Print the 0.5mm thin wall cube and make sure that the layers adhere well but the nozzle does NOT drag through while printing. Adjust skeinforge layer height in 0.01 increments until you get a nice print.

Infill Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z): 20mm x 20mm x 10mm
Objective: to correct the infill setting.
Calibration Object: 20mm-box.stl
Instructions: Set Skeinforge infill solidity to 1.0 for this test.Print the cube and analyze the top. If there is NOT ENOUGH plastic (a convex top), reduce the Infill Width over Thickness by 0.05 increments. If there is TOO MUCH plastic (convex top), turn that parameter up by 0.05 increments.
Once you're feeling close, start bumping it around in smaller increments.

You may also need to adjust your feed rate. Adjust the feed rate by increments of 2 or so until you feel close. If it looks really disgusting and blobby, go by increments of 0.5mm. Then go by smaller and smaller increments until you've nailed it. Although you probably just want to decrease Infill Width over Thickness instead of decreasing Feedrate because lowering feedrate will degrade the resolution.

Temperature Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z): 10mm x 10mm x 50mm
Objective: to set the hot end temperature correct for your preferred plastic.
Calibration Object: 50mm-tower.stl
Instructions: As the tower has quite a small 'top' surface area you may need to cool this object as you print. If your printer doesn't have a built in fan you can use any room fan as a substitute. Set the 'Infill solidity' to 1.0. Start by using the Skeinforge default temperature to print. Reduce the temperature in 5 degree increments until the extruder starts skipping when you do a manual extrude. Turn the extruder up 5 degrees and note this as your minimum extruder temperature.

Print this block.If it looks like a blob, turn down all the temps by 5 degrees until you get something good. Chances are you won't need to do this more than 5 degrees.
Note:

Be careful as going too low can result in the plastic setting making it hard for the motors to drive the plastic, possibly causing wear or damage.
Different types of plastic and its color compound added have vastly different temperatures for both your hot-end and your bed.

Perimeter Width Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z):
Objective: correct the perimeter width over thickness
Calibration Object: perimeter-wt.stl
Instructions: This test prints two objects which are designed to fit together.
Try to insert the smaller block into the larger block. Try inserting it differently a few times, and check your belt tensions.Need notes on calibration of belt tensions

If you can get it in a few mm, good. If you can get it in all the way, awesome. The fit should be snug. If it is loose and can jitter around inside, decrease the perimeter width over thickness. If you CANNOT get it in AT ALL, and you are sure there are no whiskers blocking it, INCREASE perimeter width over thickness. The latter is more likely.

Bridge Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z):
Objective: to maximize your printers ability to bridge gaps (i.e. print in thin air).
Calibration Object: 20mm-hollow-box.stl (Object may not work)
Instructions: Print the calibration object and if the top droops in, increase the BRIDGE FEEDRATE MULTIPLIER in Speed by increments of 0.1 until the top stops drooping.

Note:

Falling off can due to backlash in one or both of your belts. Make sure you are using the right pulley with your belt type.
To get good bridges you want your deposited plastic cross-sectional area to be smaller than your nozzle. That way you are more or less stretching the filament. I am able to do bridges in PLA of over 20mm with virtually no droop.

Print Precision Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z):
Objective: improve print precision
Calibration Object: precision-block.stl

Instructions: Then there is the precision block. No real huge calibration parameter here. Just play with this and see how well it does on the overhangs and shapes.

Overhang Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z):
Objective: fix overhang problems.
Calibration Object: overhang-test.stl
Instructions: Print and observe the overhangs. This is up to you to figure how to improve the overhangs.

Oozebane Calibration
[Picture]
Built Size (Width-X, Length-Y, Height-Z):
Objective: stop material oozing out of the noozle during 'non-printing' moves.

Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the nozzle, stopping it from oozing.
Calibration Object: oozebane-test.stl

The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings) between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by eliminating ooze.
Symptoms

Instructions: This is to try to control ooze and calibrate it to be useful.Start by setting the Early Shutdown distance to 0 and Slowdown Startup Steps to 1.Print the piece and measure the length of stringers where the extruder shut off and the line is thick before becoming a thin whisker. Take that length and put it into early shutdown distance.Play with Early Startup Distance Constant until the place where the extruder arrives at the other tower is nice and smooth, so that there isn't any empty space where plastic should be, but there isn't excess plastic extruded.

Overhangs Calibration
[Picture]
Objective: eliminate droop from overhangs.
Calibration Object: BridgeTestPart.stl

Instructions: If the calibration object droops, you likely need to decrease "Bridge Flowrate over Operating Flowrate." Or increase "Bridge Feedrate over Operating Feedrate."

Resource

Slic3r Settings

2012-03-04T09:29:00.000+08:00

3D Printer: Durbie Prusa Mendel by Romscraj.com

Version: slic3r-mswin-x86-0-7-1.zip
Plastic Type: PLA 2.8mm Black

Nozzle Diameter(mm): (default 0.5)

Profile Type: Extrusion
Profile Selection: Durbie Normal PLA

Resource

http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-2-filament-and.html
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-3-how-low-can-you.html

Skeinforge Setting

2012-03-03T10:48:00.001+08:00

The fineness of the print quality depend on the nozzle size, the speed of the print and the layer height.

The basic parameters that control objects are:

Layer Height (Layer thickness)
This controls the thickness of each layer, how 'fine' the object is printed or resolution.
Extrusion Width
This is the width of the extrusion, and controls placement of lines of plastic. strength of the object
Extrusion Rate is actually separated into 3 separate settings:

Edge Width over Height
Infill Width over Thickness
Extrusion Diameter Over Thickness

Feed Rate (Head Speed)
This is the speed that the build platform moves past the nozzle.
Flow Rate
This is how fast the extruder motor is turning and how fast a given length of plastic is going into the extruder.

Note:

Layer height(H) 80% of < nozzle diameter >= Extrusion width(W)

0.35 * 0.8 = 0.28mm(H) < 0.35mm nozzle >= 0.4mm(W)
0.5 * 0.8 = 0.4mm(H) < 0.5mm nozzle >= 0.5mm(W)

Extrusion Rate is actually separated into 3 separate settings:

Crave -> Carve -> Edge Width over Height (PW/H) = W/H

0.4 / 0.28 = 1.42
0.5 / 0.4 = 1.25

Crave -> Fill -> Infill Width over Thickness (IW/T) = W/H

0.4 / 0.28 = 1.42
0.5 / 0.4 = 1.25

Analyse-> Statistic -> Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio) = W/H

0.4 / 0.28 = 1.42
0.5 / 0.4 = 1.25

Crave -> Speed -> Flow rate = (Feed rate = Travel Feed Rate)
Crave -> Dimension

Filament Diameter = [Take average measurement form multiple points with caliper]

(2.90 + 2.95 + 3.00 + 2.92 + 2.94) / 5 points = 2.94

Filament Packing Density = 1 PLA, 0.8 ABS

Note:

The higher the resolution the longer it will take to process and print the object
If you increase layer height, you want to decrease width over thickness, and if you decrease layer height you want to increase width over thickness.

Get these right and the rest are only for fine tuning.

>> Work in progress..
3D Printer: Durbie Prusa Mendel by Romscraj.com

Version: Skeinforge49
Plastic Type: PLA

Nozzle Diameter(mm): 0.5 (default 0.5)

Profile Type: Extrusion
Profile Selection: Durbie Normal PLA 0.5N 0.4H 1.25WH

SF49 - Craft Sequence:
Carve -> ~~Scale~~ -> ~~Bottom~~ -> Preface -> ~~Widen~~ -> Inset -> Fill -> Multiply -> Speed -> ~~Temperature~~ -> Raft -> Skirt -> ~~Chamber~~ -> ~~Tower~~ -> ~~Jitter~~ -> ~~Clip~~ -> ~~Smooth~~ -> Stretch -> ~~Skin~~ -> ~~Comb~~ -> Cool -> ~~Hop~~ -> ~~Wipe~~ -> ~~Oozebane~~ -> ~~Dwindle~~ -> ~~Splodge~~ -> Home -> ~~Lash~~ -> ~~Fillet~~ -> Limit -> ~~Unpause~~ -> Dimension -> Alteration -> Export
Note: ~~Deactivate~~

Carve

Layer Height/Thickness (mm): 0.4 (default 0.4)
Edge Width over Height (ratio): 1.5 (default 1.8)

Preface (default)

Inset
The default value is 0.1, reduce this and the gap gets wider, increase this and the overlap is larger. Test with value finished up at 0.3 to give a nice clean join up to the perimeter.

Infill Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.5 (default 1.5)

Fill

Infill Solidity (ratio): 0.25 (default 0.2)
Infill Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.5 (default 1.5)
Note: Increase value to reduce extruded plastic or decrease value to expand extruded plastic

Note: May need to turn off Extra shells when print gear or thin wall object otherwise the teeth end up hollow.

Multiply

Activate Multiply
Center X (mm): 100.0
Center Y (mm): 100.0

Speed

Activate Speed
Add Flow Rate

Feed Rate (mm/s): 32 (default 16)
Note: Make sure Travel Speed Rate (mm/s) = Feed Rate (mm/s)?
Flow Rate Setting(float): 32 (default 210)
Note: Increase the value if the wall too thin, nothing come out from the nozzle or decrease the value if the wall too thick.

Object First layer Feed Rate Infill Multiplier (ratio): 0.4 (default 0.4)
Object First layer Feed Rate Perimeter Multiplier (ratio): 0.3 (default 0.4)
Object First layer Flow Rate Infill multiplier (ratio): 0.4 (default 0.4)
Object First layer Flow Rate Perimeter multiplier (ratio): 0.3 (default 0.4)

Maximum Z Feed rate (mm/s): 3.0 (default 1.0)

Perimeter Feed Rate over Operating Feed Rate (ratio): 0.8 (default 1.0)
Perimeter Flow Rate over Operating Flow Rate (ratio): 0.9 (default 1.0)

Travel Feed Rate (mm/s): 50.0 (default 16)

Raft

Base Layers (integer): 0 (default 1)
Interface Layers (integer): 0 (default 2)
Operating Nozzle Lift over Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.5 (default 0.5, between 0.4 - 0.6 )
Note: First layer height = (operating nozzle lift over layer thickness + 0.5) * layer thickness
e.g. (0.5 + 0.5) * 0.4 = 0.4

Note: Raft still has to be activated for temperature to work. If you want to only set the temperature or only create support material or only elevate the nozzle without creating a raft, set the Base Layers and Interface Layers to zero.

Skirt:

Activate Skirt
Gap over Perimeter Width (ratio): 5.0 (default 3.0)

Stretch

Activate Stretch

Cool

Activate Cool
Minimum Layer Time (seconds): 15.0 (default 60.0)

Home (default)

Limit

Maximum Initial Feed Rate (mm/s): 10.0 (default 1.0)

Dimension
Note: No extrusion if not activated. Fine tune the Extruder Retraction Speed, Retraction Distance and Restart Extra Distance to reduce object strings problem.

Activate Dimension
Extruder Retraction Speed (mm/s): 12.0 (default 13.3)
Filament Diameter (mm): 3.0 (default 2.8)
Filament Packing Density: PLA 1 (default ABS 0.85)
(e.g. At 0.85 it is going to extrude 1.15mm for 1mm of filament. At 1.15 it is going to extrude 0.85 mm for 1mm of filament. )
Retraction Distance (millimeters): 0.5 (default 0.0)
Note: Simply tells the extruder not to reverse (toggle) if the start of the next set of extruder moves are closer than this distance, otherwise you may end up with constant tiny extruder toggles if you were doing a highly complicated small print. 2mm is a good figure.?

Alteration (default)

C:\Users\< USERNAME >\.skeinforge\alterations\ :

Filename: start.gcode

G21; metric is good
G90; absolute positioning
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0; zero the extruded length axes

Filename: end.gcode

M104 S0
M140 S0
G91
G0 X-200 Z5 F1000
G28 Y0
G1 Y185 F3000
G04 P6000
M84

Export (default)

SF49 Analyze > Statistic

Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio): 1.5 (default 1.24)

Resources:

Skeinforge parameters for use with Gen6 Electronics
http://rapmanv3.blogspot.com/2009/09/more-skienforge.html
http://wiki.makerbot.com/configuring-skeinforge
http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/wiki/index.php/Skeinforge
http://www.renosis.net/Skeinforge-41-guide.html
http://code.google.com/p/pif3d/wiki/Skeinforge_Gen6_Tuning
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

Test to print the complete range of practical values for layer thickness/height. Start with 0.55mm through to 0.25mm in 0.05mm steps. All the cylinders are printed single filament wall with PLA and
16mm/sec Feed Rate.

Layer Height(mm): 0.4,
Feed Rate (Head Speed): 16mm/s,
Flow Rate(Extrusion Rate or RPM): 32.7 x 10 = 327
Perimeter Wall thickness: 0.72
Layer/mm height: 2.5
Extruder Retraction speed(mm/s): 12.0 (50.0?)

Layer Height	Width/Thickness	Feed Rate	Flow Rate
0.25	1.8	49.50	255
0.25	1.6	60.00	255
0.28	1.8	44.00	255
0.28	1.6	49.75	255
0.28	1.4	54.25	255
0.28	1.2	61.50	255
0.32	1.6	34.25	255
0.32	1.4	42.25	255
0.32	1.2	51.75	255
0.32	1.0	60.50	255
0.35	1.4	34.25	255
0.35	1.0	46.25	255

Layer Height Calculation:
1mm of height (Z) movement takes 2048 motor steps, a layer height of 0.4mm takes 819.2 motor steps. Not an even number of motor steps, so not ideal.

Skeinforge Profile naming convention
PLA - 0.5mm(N), 1.5mm(H), 1.5(WH), 3.0mm(F)
PLA/ABS, 0.5mm Nozzle, 0.4mm Layer Height, 1.5 Width over Thickness Ratio, 3.0mm Filament

GCode
// M80 - Turn on Power Supply
// M81 - Turn off Power Supply
// M302 - Allow cold extrudes
// M400 - Finish all moves

SF49 - Craft Sequence (Template):
Carve -> Scale -> Bottom -> Preface -> Widen -> Inset -> Fill -> Multiply -> Speed -> Temperature -> Raft -> Skirt -> Chamber -> Tower -> Jitter -> Clip -> Smooth -> Stretch -> Skin -> Comb -> Cool -> Hop -> Wipe -> Oozebane -> Dwindle -> Splodge -> Home -> Lash -> Fillet -> Limit -> Unpause -> Dimension -> Alteration -> Export

Carve -> Defines characteristics of the printer.

Scale -> Allows to scale either z axis or x/y axis or both.

Bottom ->

Preface ->

Widen ->

Inset ->

Fill -> Allows to define how an object should be filled

Multiply -> This is used purely to locate the print towards the center of the print layer, on the assumption that STL file X, Y data is centered around the origin

Speed -> Speed is a script to set the feed rate (which means head movement speed in mm/s) and flow rate. The resulting thickness of the filament is a combination of the two plus of the temperature.

Temperature -> If you don't get it right:

Raft will not stick
Filament will not even come out or burn

Raft -> Raft is a script to create a raft, elevate the nozzle and set the temperature for the raft. In addition, there are some parameters for the rest of the object in this group. It is very important to get the raft parameters right and to keep this option on even if you don't need a raft (read on).

Skirt -> Skirt is a script to give the extruder some extra time to begin extruding properly before beginning the object, and to put a baffle around the model in order to keep the extrusion warm.

Chamber -> Some filaments contract too much and warp the extruded object. To prevent this you have to print the object in a temperature regulated chamber and/or on a temperature regulated bed. The chamber tool allows you to control the bed and chamber temperature and the holding pressure.

Tower ->

Jitter -> Jitters the loop end position to a different place on each layer to prevent the a ridge from from being created on the side of the object.. This tool will change where the layer start - for each layer. As result, you won't see vertical lines. Increase jitter Over Perimeter with to space it out more.

For example if you turn jitter off and print a cube every outside shell on the cube will start from exactly the same point so you will have a visible "mark/line/seam" on the side of the cube. Using the jitter tool you move that start point around hence you avoid that visible seam.
Clip -> Clips stops extrusions early in order to prevent loop plastic build up at the end of a loop and form a bump.

Smooth ->

Stretch ->

Skin ->

Comb -> Moves the extruder around inside holes to prevent stringers in those holes. Comb bends the extruder travel paths around holes in the slices, to avoid stringers. It moves the extruder to the inside of perimeters before turning the extruder on so any start up ooze during travel (points where the nozzle is moving without extruding plastic) will be inside the shape

Cool -> Allows to activate the fan on top with the G-Codes M106 and M107 to turn fan on/off.
It slow down the layers printing if it takes less time than the distribute minimum layer time (i.e. 15 seconds). If a layer prints really fast, it doesn't have enough time to cool before the next layer gets put on top of it. If the printer is trying to put a new layer of plastic on top of a layer that is still very soft, It can lead to other problems such as layer splitting and warping.

Hop ->

Wipe ->

Oozebane -> For DC motors used. Dimensions is for stepper motors

Dwindle ->

Plodge ->

Home ->

Lash ->

Fillet -> Rounding of corners

Limit ->

Unpause ->

Dimension ->

Alteration ->

Export ->

PLA and ABS Filament

2012-02-20T03:39:00.001+08:00

There are two sizes of filament 3.0mm and 1.75mm. Mostly used by RepRapper are Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) and Polylactic acid (PLA) plastics. ABS creates a stronger plastic compare with biodegradable PLA plastic. ABS do produce some fume during extrusion. They sell in different range of weight or length and some will come with a spool.

To maintain a high quality print out from the 3D printer. We should buy filament from the same place or supplier as they're probably shipping goods that's all pretty close to the same diameter compare to buy from different suppliers. [1] The finest calibration and most carefully crafted printing profile means nothing when your extruder pulls in filament that is slightly thicker or thinner than expected. The surface quality of your print suffers, extruders jam, and prints can fail.

When we buy 3.0mm filament we’re actually getting anything from 2.70mm - 3.10mm filament. We will have a flow rate problem if we using the same skeinforge profile or setting with 255 flow rate on 2.70mm filament and with 3.10mm filament. A 2.70mm filament has ~5.7mm² area (cross section) and a 3.10mm filament has ~7.5mm² area; it’s +30% more plastic per length of filament and the flow rate is about how fast a given length of plastic is being fed into the extruder.

Note:

Get filament from the same supplier or buy more in weight in same spool to maintain consistent filament diameter. Acceptable filament tolerance is ±0.1mm.
Measure different places in a row to get an average of the filament diameter.
Different filament color will have different extrusion rate as colored compound have mixed into the plastic.
Maintain a list of profile for the print or slice.
Profiles format: PLA 3.0mm Black, PLA 2.8mm Black, ABS 1.75mm White

Suppliers

Romscraj.com (Singapore)
PLA 3.0mm, Filament 3.0, Heater: 185.0, Bed: 60.0, Feed rate: 32, Flow rate: 32

reprapcn.com/ sunyatech.com/ (China, Hong Kong)
PLA 3.0mm Yellow, Filament 2.7 , Heater: 220.0, Bed: 85.0, Feed rate: 36, Flow rate: 36

Resource

3D Printer Tools

2012-02-17T16:39:00.003+08:00

I have no experience at all in electronic and ended up with this tools list to get the 3d printer build:

Software Tools

RepRap Calculator v2
more..

Hardware Tools

Digital Vernier Caliper
Bubble level
Small Needle Files
Plier
Cutter
Multimeter
Mini screwdriver
Crocodile clips
Soldering iron, Solder, Flux
Heat shrink SGD1/meter
Butt connector
Kapton Polyimide Adhesive Tape
Duable side Tape
Tweezers
Wrench or spanner

Durbie Prusa Mendel Calibration

2012-02-17T08:58:00.002+08:00

Supplier: Romsraj.com
Firmware: romscraj/Marlin - GitHub
Motherboard: custom Gen6 to Gen6.d

The configuration of the motherboard firmware is controlled by defines in configuration.h.

We need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to the electronic.

Install the arduino IDE Arduino 0022 for Window
File: arduino-0022.zip
Download Romscraj Marlin Modified version
File: romscraj-Marlin-v1.0.0.beta1-85-g9075268.zip
Copy romscraj-Marlin-9075268\Marlin\Sanguino folder to arduino-0022\hardware
Start the arduino IDE.
Select Tools -> Board -> Sanguino.
Select the correct serial port in Tools ->Serial Port
Select File -> Open, romscraj-Marlin-9075268\Marlin\Marlin.pde
At Configuration.h tab, find below line:
// default settings
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {32, 32, 2078.72, 514}
Update the calculation for X, Y, Z, E steps per unit
// default settings
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {32, 32, 2048, 461.64}
Click the Verify/Compile button
Click Upload button to upload modified firmware to printer
Install PrintRun host controller software
Start PrintRun-Pronterface software

Feed the filament into the extruder and make sure your hot-end is at temperature.
Set your spring compression so that the hobbed bolt teeth dig into the filament.

Update the calibration variables for X, Y, Z, E steps per uni:

Calculation for X, Y, Z, E steps per unit

XY Motor Steps (Steps per mm - belt)

Formula:

( motor_steps_per_revolution * (1/driver_microstepping) ) / (belt_pitch * motor_pulley_teeth)

where

motor_steps_per_revolution is 360° / Motor_step_angle°

Motor step angle: 1.8 degree
Driver microstepping: 1/8 - UStep (Gen6 board)
Belt pitch: 5mm Pitch (T5, GT2, HTD)
Tooth count: 10

Calculation: ((360°/1.8°) * (1/(1/8)))/(5 * 10)

Set it in configuration.h in your firmware.
Steps per mm value = 32

Z Motor Steps (Steps per mm - leadscrew)

Formula:

( (motor_steps_per_revolution * (1/driver_microstepping)) / leadscrew_pitch ) * (gear_ratio)

where

motor_steps_per_revolution is 360° / Motor_step_angle°
gear_ratio is Motor pulley teeth count / Leadscrew pulley teeth count
(Prusa is 1:1 for direct drive)

Motor step angle: 1.8 degree
Driver microstepping: 1/8 - UStep (Gen6 board)
Leadscrew pitch: M8 - metric (1.25mm per rotation)
Gear ratio : 10 (Durbie custom aluminium motor pulley) : 16 (RP Motor pulley)

Calculation: ( ( (360/1.8) * (1/ (1/8)) )/1.25) * (16 / 10)

Set it in configuration.h in your firmware.
Steps per mm value is 2048

E Motor Steps (Steps per mm - volumetric)

Formula:

(motor_steps_per_revolution * (1/driver_microstepping) * gear ratio) / (pinch_wheel_diameter * 3.14)

where

motor_steps_per_revolution is 360° / Motor_step_angle°
gear_ratio is Driven gear teeth count / Motor pulley teeth count

Calculation: ( (360/1.8) * (1/ (1/8)) * (53/9) ) / (6.5 *3.14)

Set it in configuration.h in your firmware.
Steps per mm value is 461.64

Note: The result is theoretically right, but you might still need to calibrate your machine to get finest detail.

Calibration for X, Y, Z, E steps per unit

Calibrating X, Y&Z Step/mm

X Steps per mm 32 / 98.60 * 100 = 32.45, 32.45/100.73 * 100 = 32.21
(Pronterface move X +100)
Y Steps per mm 32 / 98.70 * 100 = 32.42
(Pronterface move Y +100)
Z Steps per mm 2048 / 9.94 * 10 = 2060.36, 2060.36 / 9.98 * 10 = 2064.48
(Pronterface move Z +10)

Skeinforge 40+ Calibrate Extruder

E Steps per mm 461.64 / 26.64 * 30 = 519.86, 519.86 / 25.35 * 30 = 615
(Pronterface, Click Extrude 30mm)

Resource

First Durbie Prusa Mendel - romscraj.com

2012-02-15T13:26:00.000+08:00

If you can afford to pay, buy from reputable brand to have a better quality of the parts or product. New buyer without electronic background knowledge should get their RepRap printer from local store to have better support.

Romscraj is new and the staff are helpful. They are willing to share some tips and precaution base on their own experience in RepRap. They are keep improve the quality of the parts and product.

Durbie Prusa Mendel

Print Material: PLA and ABS same with other printers?
Only support PLA. Durbie using Replacement AC Adapter (Output: 12V ~ 10A).
For ABS to print, you may need a small fan at the extruder and to increase the heated bed temperature so that the material will stick well on the heated bed, you also need to source or buy a new Replacement AC Adapter (Output: 12V ~ 15A) as recommended by one of their staff.
(They don't support ABS print and they don't sell Replacement AC Adapter (Output: 12V ~ 15A).

Built size: 200 x 200 x 140mm?
(Actual built size: 190 x 190 x 90mm)

The maximum width for the X-axis is 190mm to prevent the hot-end hit or run over the heated bed 4 screws at the side.

X-Axis - (left side)

X-Axis - (right side)

The maximum length for Y-axis is 190mm after the end stop (20x40mm) installed:

End-Stop -Y Position

The maximum height for Z-axis is 90mm.
Can squeeze to 10mm height by lowering the heated bed. Not tested yet..

Built size z-axis (1)

Built size z-axis (2)

Getting Durbie to work

Hardware:
Motherboard: Custom Gen6 to Gen6.d
Firmware: Marlin

Software:
Host Software: kliment/PrintRun (Pronterface)
GCode Conversion: Skeinforge

Documentation:
Built: Durbie Prusa Mendel Reprap 3D Printer
Electronic: Gen6.d
Source files: GitHub

Computer: Windows 7 Pro 64-bit

Solving software issues

Firmware:
Change Baud at 540000 to Baud 115200 seems reduce the

missing character or garbage on Pronterface console
printer keep resets shown on Pronterface console

Host Software:
Upgraded Kliment/PrintRun windows dependencies to support Windows 7 64-bit:
(Solved serial connection error)

Solving built issues

I have went to romscraj.com at Mid View City for support few times =(

02March2012
Problem: Noticed that at the motherboard, the L-connectors for the power cable and the hot-end cable burned or melted. Do not know the stability of Gen6.d board.
Resolution: Waiting an email reply from Romscraj..

Romscraj HotEnd Cable L-connector (right side)

Romscraj HotEnd Cable L-connector (left side)

Romscraj Power Cable L-connector (Top view)

Romscraj Power Cable L-connector(Side view)

Update on 09March2012: A friend bought it for me at Sim Lim Tower, Singapore. (60 cents per pair) as no email respond from Romscraj after a week:

L-connector (Hamilton Sim Lim Tower)

15February2012
Problem: Extruder 4-wire cable to PCB faulty. One of the pin-1(black wire) not crimp properly and cause thermistor report no value at Pronterface software. Tested with multimeter.
Resolution: Exchange new cable.

Romscraj HotEnd 4-wire cable

Problem: Romscraj have not release the Skeinforge profile sample.
Resolution: We have to Do-It-Yourself (DIY) to get the Skeinforge settings works or wait for their release.
Update on 25Febraury2012: Romscraj contacted me that they have released the skeinforge41 profiles for Durbie

14February2012
Problem: X and Y Stepper motor generate high pitch noise when move it a step with Pronterface software. (Stepper motor by Minebea Motor Manufacturing Corp):

X - Y Stepper using 17PM-K140-04V Minebea Motor is a two-phase hybrid stepper motor (Low Noise, Low Vibration), the parameters are: the step-angle is 1.8°, Length 42, 0.38nm, 1.0-1.4A
Z - E Stepper using 42BYG250-33 is a two-phase hybrid stepper motor, the parameters are: the step-angle is 1.8°, 0.21nm，0.4A

Resolution: romscraj confirmed that it is normal. It is also happen on their printers. X-Y using same stepper and Z-E using different stepper

Problem: romscraj provide different Z and E stepper motor and it have not files at the motor shaft
Resolution: I leave it as is for the time being and will monitor for the skip steps.

Romscraj X-Y stepper(left) and Z-E stepper(right)

Filing motor sharf

Problem: X,Y and Z axis moveable from Pronterface but the hot end thermistor showed no value at Pronterface. Error message 'Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered'. It seems like MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection not working or thermistor failed.
Resolution: romscraj have reload the marlin firmware and tested that Pronterface heater temperature. (by tapped it directly from the PCB heater connector pin). They have also gave me a new thermistor, 100mm heat shrink, 100mm hot temperature cable x 2 to patch the extruder up.

Error Message: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered

Romscraj tiny 100K thermistor

12February2012
Problem: Stepper motor pulley defect. Noticed that the hole on the motor pulley for tighten the stepper motor shaft together not drilled
Resolution: Exchange new motor pulley

Romscraj motor pulley hole for tighten not drilled

Problem: Different sizes M4 wing nut cause 53-tooth-drivegear cannot fit properly with extruder's stepper motor 1x 9-toothdrive gear
Resolution: Exchange correct size of M4 wing nut (Image right side)

Romscraj M4 Wing Nut with different Shape (Side view)

Romscraj M4 Wing Nut with different Shape (Top view)

07February2012
Problem: RP Parts to tight to assemble with non-printed parts like threaded rods. It is not smooth.
Resolution: Use needle files on RP Parts
Note: May need to print 0.1-0.2mm bigger hole diameter to prevent files the RP Parts.

Problem: Motherboard pins for Hot Bed and Fan bend 90degree cause by improper packing. Motherboard does not come with a box
Resolution: Bend the pin back to normal direction. PCB should keep in proper box before shipped out.

Problem:Power cable(35cm) and the power source cable(90cm) is too short to properly put the printer on the table. Either one should have at least 150cm length for better movement on the standard table.
Resolution: Get my own computer power cable(150cm).

Romscraj Power Source

Problem: Documentation. No electronic wiring diagram for end-stop and heated bed.
Resolution: Went to romscraj office to have better look at the printer wiring and electronic mount position.
Updated on 07February2012: romscraj uploaded latest documents to Github.com/romscraj for gen6.d and Assembly Instructions

Endstops for X, Y, Z:

EndStop-X position

EndStop-Y position

EndStop-Z position

HotEnd

HotEnd front view

HotEnd back view

HotEnd extruder wiring

HotEnd PCB wiring

HeatedBed

HeatedBed front view

HeatedBed wiring (without connector)

HeatedBed PCB wiring

Other problems reported by others RepRapers:

Reprap durbie prusa mendel error
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hDhgvbuqVM
X-Y motor not working
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTAHc08wErs

Privacy Policy

2011-07-01T10:16:00.000+08:00

Privacy Policy for The3DPrinter

If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to contact us by email at blogger @ jonathanho . net

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Update: 23 March 2009

Printing a human kidney

2011-03-07T14:13:00.000+08:00

Fresh from TED2011 last week: Surgeon Anthony Atala demonstrates an early-stage experiment that could someday solve the organ-donor problem: a 3D printer that uses living cells to output a transplantable kidney. Using similar technology, Dr. Atala’s young patient Luke Massella received an engineered bladder 10 years ago; we meet him onstage. (Recorded at TED2011, March 2011, in Long Beach, California. Duration: 17:24)

Watch Anthony Atala’s 2011 talk on TED.com where you can download it, rate it, comment on it and find other talks and performances from our archive of 800+ TEDTalks.