The Adventurer on a Shoestring

Why I stopped writing about my travels

2019-10-12T18:36:00.001+08:00

Why I stopped writing about my travels

So many changes have taken -- or are still taking -- place. Looking back at my past posts, things are way different now from when I’ve started doing this.

Doesn’t sound like my usual posts where I describe a particular place, you would think. Why this kind of post, you may ask?

You see, I haven’t been posting for the longest time. I have been travelling, sure, but I have realised many things as months and years went by, which put into question why I shouldn’t write about these things.

IF THERE'S ANYTHING that didn't change, it's my habit of lugging around my DSLR.
And my FILM SLR. Ta Prohm, Siem Reap. February 2019.

Back in 2008, when I started out blogging, my original intent was to inspire everyone to travel and see the world, and aid prospective travellers with the information that they would need as they embark on their trips.

When I first travelled solo back in 2008, I felt that I ought to help everyone in providing the necessary information – where to go, what to see, what to eat, how to prepare. And inspire those who will come across my blog to pack up and check out what’s out there.

For the financially challenged, I hope I served as an inspiration for you to finally save up, do that dream getaway, and find those affordable accommodations and cheap eats on your destinations.

But you see, since I started this blog, so many other travel blogs and websites have sprouted. Instagram has practically became a phenomenon where everyone strikes a pose by the Eiffel Tower, makes that perspective shot by the Leaning Tower of Pisa, or does those generic poses by the Angkor Wat. We’re not yet on Facebook where millennials show off their deliberately done candid shots or so-called blogger poses.

Almost everyone’s travelling now, thanks to cheaper airfares and the availability of information as to where to go and what to see.

Before, I thought I’m adventurous enough compared to the average Filipino for going beyond go-to Hong Kong and ventured into uncharted territories like Morocco or Luxembourg. As of this writing, at least three friends have gone off to see beyond the walls of the Medina in Marrakech. So many friends have gone to the far north and experienced the auroras. And many, still, have made their rounds of the usual destinations in Europe.

And so I stopped writing about my travels. I felt that the information I’m getting is no longer relevant. I felt that readers would find the information they’d need elsewhere.

And then there’s the “blogger” phenomenon – the emergence of writers and content producers who regularly upload stuff on their respective blogs and websites, making them -- at least not all of them -- a separate category for advertisers and publicists to reach out to their respective markets. Many of them are really helpful, while others are said to be merely basking on the sheer number of their followers and page views.

“We’ve started this and now everyone’s into blogging!” my colleague Iris, who also used to blog, told me when I was working on her own dot-com for her blog.

It's a different game now, I told her.

Everything’s just totally different, and in those times that I haven’t been sharing my travels, I felt that I ought to be silent.

Friends have been asking what happened to this blog, and I just told them I’m not taking this off even if I’ve already gave up my own domain name and settled for the Blogspot address.

The Adventurer on a Shoestring is still there – still here – only that it’s not updated.

What happened so far

And so since the last time I have made a post here, I got into a relationship, got married, and had a baby. And another baby’s coming. And still travelling to local and international destinations in between.

This sort of introspection has been going on ever since my wife asked me to join her and her doctor friends to a trip to Cambodia.

How was my trip to Cambodia in 2008? Check it here.

The first thing that came to my mind was, wow, it’s a come-back after almost 11 years! I came face to face again with the Angkor Wat, the 300-or-so faces of Jayavarman at Bayon, and cruised through Tonle Sap, and even discovered another destination: Battambang.

WITH THE DOCTORS at the Angkor Wat's east gate (technically back entrance).
February 2019.

The trip was so different from what I’ve done before. Let me tell you why:

1. It was some sort of a business trip as my wife and her doctor friends had to help out another friend working in a hospital in Battambang;

2. It was a trip organised by a travel agency, complete with a hired van and a tour guide;

3. And most importantly, I wasn’t travelling alone.

Angkor Wat was no longer the early-morning-calm-in-a-far-off-place that I experienced way back in 2008. The main temple was so packed with tourists. Ta Prohm, which I call the “Angelina Jolie Temple” for easier reference, was literally in shambles and was undergoing repairs. It was also impossible to take decent photos as the place was so packed with Chinese tourists who always try to cut in the lines for photo ops.

TRAVELLING WITH the wife. And also added so much pounds. Looolz.
February 2019.

I can also feel the impact of global warming: it was February and yet heat indices can go to as high as 39 degrees. It was so hot that we only managed to visit three temples. I checked out not lower than 10 temples during my trip in 2008 but this time, I can’t even suggest to our group to at least check out a nearby minor temple or travel the extra mile to Banteay Srei, also due to the sweltering heat.

What's there to see at the Tonle Sap Lake? Should you go?

I was also tasked to go on trips to Malaysia and Thailand, also two of the other destinations I’ve been to in 2008, and everything looked and felt way different than before.

As trite as it may seem, change is inevitable. But I also believe that we shouldn’t just stop just because .

Am I back? I'll do my best.

The things that I will be posting from hereon would still be about travel.

And I will try my best to still inspire all of you out there, in another way.

Thanks for sticking with The Adventurer on a Shoestring.

The Twin Beaches of Nacpan and Calitang in El Nido, Palawan

2017-03-24T12:17:00.000+08:00

It's Springtime in colder countries, but here in the ever-sunny, tropical Philippines, it is officially summer! And during summertime when kids are off from school and everyone begs to get soaked in the water to cool down, we folks head to the beach! For that, my top recommendation will always be El Nido in the province of Palawan, central Philippines!

But before you get intimidated by the thought of an El Nido getaway, please keep in mind: El Nido is not expensive. My trip to El Nido only cost me P10,000, which already included my air fare that only cost about P2,500 round trip (got it from a travel fair), my five-day accommodations (cost of the first four days was split into four as I had companions at that time), two island hopping tours, food, land transfers, and other expenses.

Aside from being not too expensive, I like El Nido for being one of the most beautiful places on earth that I have ever seen. Talk about turquoise waters, jagged limestone cliffs, beautiful underwater coral garden, fine white sand beaches, delicious food (as opposed to what a European I've met in one of the tours said that food here sucks), what more can you ask for?

One of the first places that we have explored when we went here with my friends is the Nacpan and Calitang Twin Beaches.

Twin beaches! How could that be?

It's like a thin strip of land appeared between a big and a small island, and both sides of the strip is lined with fine, white sand.

See the thin strip of land in between? That makes it two beaches for you! To the right is Calintang, and to the left is Nacpan. The presence of fishermen's boats make it all the more charming. This photo was taken while on top of the hill.

Going to the Nacpan and Calitang Twin Beaches is an adventure in itself. From the town centre of El Nido, we hailed a tricycle and asked to take us to Nacpan.

The round trip fare is P1,000, pretty much a good deal considering that I've also been reading rates that could go as high as P1,500. Try to haggle, though, and better ask the locals first how much is the REAL cost of going to Nacpan before hailing a tricycle. Agree first with the driver on the fare before hopping inside.

The tricycle can fit in five passengers, but I would not suggest that you fill the trike to the brim. Nacpan is an hour-long trip, and you will pass through dirt roads and puddles that, on several occasions, we had to push the tricycle just for our journey to continue. There were two of us in the tricycle, so the cost was split into two.

But Nacpan is worth this hassle (if one may consider that a hassle; I don't, really). We were met by a long stretch of beach with fine, white sand and roaring waves. And best of all, because the place is secluded, there were only a few of us when we went there!

We walked by the Nacpan beach, checked its twin called Calitang, and went up the cliff to take a lot of photos and have a bird's eye view of this beautiful place.

Ask your manong tricycle driver to be your photographer and guide to take you to the hill. It's not too high, but a guide will be required upon entry.

Trust me, it is really beautiful!

Why do I love El Nido so much? Because this is just day one and I still have a lot of islands to explore!

P.S.
We rushed to Corong-Corong after our trip to Nacpan for us to catch a glimpse of the beautiful sunset.

Tip sheet:

- Tricycle fares might have already changed by the time you've read this article. The rate as of this writing is P1,000, round trip. Ask the locals for the real fare as some tricycle drivers might take advantage of the fact that you are a tourist. On another trip to Corong-Corong -- a 10 to 15-minute tricycle ride from the town centre -- I paid P50 only to be told that I should have paid only P15.

- Drinks are available at the stores by the beach of Nacpan. They are damn expensive. I suggest that you buy your food and drinks from the grocery stores at the town centre and just bring it to Nacpan.

- Because this is a far-flung place, don't expect a nice place for shower. You may even be charged P10 for using spartan facilities. But heck. The place is so beautiful, you'd want it to be as raw as it is.

Post card from Japan: Cherry blossoms in Kyoto!

2017-03-09T16:58:00.001+08:00

Spring is here, and the cherry blossoms or sakura season is upon us. Hurray! I'm sure a lot of you bitten by the travel bug and wanderlust are heading to Boston, Seoul, Taipei, or in many parts of Japan such as Osaka, Tokyo, or Kyoto.

I've got to experience the latter three in Japan and I should say, I can't imagine Japan without the sakura, that being my first time in the country!

There are numerous places in Japan to best enjoy the pinkish-whitish glow of cherry blossoms, be it through plain sight-seeing or through a hanami or picnic under the sakura trees -- at the grounds of Osaka Castle; the Philosopher's Walk, Kawaramachi Avenue, and Gion in Kyoto. I tell you, no matter how well-trodden these places are, taking selfies here could yield to hundreds of likes on Facebook or Instagram!

You might also like: Cherry blossoms in Japan on a budget

But the place depicted in this photo is not in the travel guides. I've just chanced upon this corner by the creek coming from Kawaramachi Station and crossing the Kamo River while walking towards my hostel a couple of blocks from there, to the direction of Kyoto Station.

I don't remember the name of the street but looking at it from Google Maps, the exact spot is right in front of Cafe Kano, with address 785 Nishihashizumechō, Shimogyō-ku, Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu 600-8029, Japan.

I just want to say, that to best enjoy the cherry blossoms, you should also be open to other places that you might chance upom where the cherry blossoms are as beautiful.

P.S.:
I was travelling alone. How was I able to take a picture of myself? I mounted my DSLR camera on my folding bike!

Cherry blossoms in Japan on a budget

2016-04-26T18:06:00.001+08:00

CHERRY BLOSSOMS OR SAKURA at the old rail tracks in Kyoto.

It’s springtime once again and my countrymen stricken with wanderlust are off to their new-found favourite destination at this time of year – JAPAN!

Well it’s really understandable why: apart from the fact that Japan is just about four hours by plane from Manila, and the Japanese embassy in the Philippines has relaxed its visa restrictions for Filipinos, the springtime spectacle in Japan that is the Sakura or the cherry blossoms is simply irresistible.

For the tropical fish that I am, who’s not too familiar with the changing of vegetation (as we only have to seasons here in the Philippines – hot and hotter, that is!), the sight of cherry blossoms is simply surreal.

Believe me when I say that my first sighting of a cherry tree with whitish-pink blossoms at a centuries-old temple in Osaka, and the seemingly never ending rows of cherry trees along Kawaramachi St. in Kyoto is worth every cent that I have spent for this eight-day trip.

Speaking of spending, for the Filipino budget traveler, a trip to Japan could be double the price as compared to the most common destinations such as Hong Kong or Singapore. For instance, usual round trip fares to Singapore could range from P8,000-P12,000, Manila to Tokyo trips could be about P16,000. And we haven’t talked yet about the hotel rates and prices of commodities in Japan, which is way higher compared to those in the Philippines given the higher standards of living in what is deemed as the third largest economy in the world.

But based from my experience, budget of P50,000 is way too much already.

Let me share with you my eight-day Sakura-sighting trip in Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara:

Day 1: Shopping around Osaka

I went around Osaka where the trio of myself, my colleague and friend Cristina, and her hubby Martin went around for temples, shrines, and shopping and eating!

OSAKA CASTLE

The first order of the day was Osaka Castle, and rightly so. The way to the castle is already a treat as you will be greeted with rows upon rows of cherry trees! Photo ops abound, and your choices range from the bridge, the castle grounds, or by the moat! The castle, an architectural spectacle by itself, houses a museum that tells of the rich history and culture of Osaka. Head to the topmost floor to see a 360-degree view of Osaka!

After the Castle, head to Shinsaibashi Suji, a covered arcade of stores that range from designer items, department stores, thrift shops, and what have you. We also found a hole-in-the-wall noodle shop here after attempting to talk to several Japanese wait staff from other restaurants (and failing) on the food that they serve. It’s from there that I tasted possibly the best chasu ramen ever. And oh, what did I get from an afternoon’s worth of stroll? Several pairs of socks and a couple of tops from a popular clothing chain. Martin, on the other hand, scored some sporting goods and Asics trainers for cheaps.

GIGANTIC NEON SIGNS at Dotonbori, the most notable of which is Glicos.

The rest of the evening was spent strolling around Dotonbori, which, aside from being a popular place for food tripping and shopping, is where the colourful neon signs are. Most notable among them is the Glico sign showing an image of a running man, which shines brightly over the Dotonbori River.

Day 2: Temples and more of Osaka

We’ve just continued walking around Osaka for more sightings of Sakura around temples while on our way to the other highlights of the City.

MY FRIENDS, real-life sweethearts Martin and Cristina Lazo, make a wish at the shrine.

I WAS STILL single at that time and third-wheeling with my friends. Hence, this photo.

Ohatsu Tenjin or Tsuyunoten, one of the most popular spots in Osaka, is famous for lovers as this is believed to strengthen the bond between couples. The site is where Ohatsu and Tokubei pledged their eternal love, thus prompting superstitious lovers to either put their hands on the marble fountain or buy heart-shaped ema where they are supposed to write their wishes.

UMEDA SKY BUILDING from below.

We’ve strolled around Shinsaibashi and checked out Amerikamura, another famous shopping spot, before we headed to the Umeda Sky Building, an architectural wonder in Osaka for its twin towers and a circular sky garden in between. Access to the floating garden is 700 yen. But the cheapskates that we are contented ourselves with the topmost floor that can be accessed for free where we are rewarded with photo ops at the escalator as well as shopping time for souvenirs.

Day 3: Kyoto at Night

I was alone by this time as the friends headed to Tokyo while I pushed for Kyoto.

Got the chance to see Kawaramachi Street for the long line of cherry trees while looking for my hostel.

GION AT NIGHT.

Spent the evening geisha-hunting at Gion district. Be aware, though, that geishas are not tourist attractions and they have the right to refuse to be photographed. It is impolite to just ask them to stop for photos!

Day 4: Philosopher’s Walk in the afternoon, Gion at night

Head to the Philosopher’s Walk and bask under canopies of cherry blossoms!

PHILOSOPHER'S WALK.

While at the Philosopher’s Path, check out the temples and shrines along the way, counting among them the Silver Pavilion (Ginkaku-ji). Otoyo Shrine, Honen-in, and Eikan-do Zenrin-ji. The Silver Pavilion is a must-visit for the sights and the peaceful ambience.

GINKAKU-JI, also known as the Silver Pavilion.

Walk a bit farther and you will see the Nanzen-ji temple. Still a bit farther, there’s the old rail tracks that also make for dramatic photo ops, one of the best in Kyoto during the Sakura season!

Come evening, join a walking tour of Gion (1,000 yen), perhaps the most famous geisha district in all of Kyoto aside from Ponto-cho and Miyagawa-cho. The walking tour will show you a brief history of Gion, those quaint machiya or wooden houses where geishas live, a school where geishas are being taught of the arts that they should learn, and the so-called tea houses where geishas entertain. My favourite spot in Gion is the Shirakawa Stream, which gives fans of Arthur Golden’s Memoirs of a Geisha a lot of giggles, like myself.

MY FOLDING BIKE outside an okiya or machiya in Gion, those wooden structures that house geishas.

Please note that canopies of cherry blossoms are quite dramatic at night in Gion.

Day 5: A walk into the bamboo forest in Arashiyama

ARASHIYAMA'S TENRYU-JI TEMPLE.

One of the most popular spots in Kyoto is the bamboo forest in Arashiyama. From Kyoto station, Arashiyama could be a 45-minute train ride, making it a bit out-of-townish.

RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE of Arashiyama bamboo forest.

Arashiyama, however, isn’t just about the bamboo forest. From the train station, the bamboo forest itself is still quite a long walk but on the way there, one of the must-see sights is the Tenryu-ji temple, which was designated by the UNESCO as a world heritage site for having a beautiful structure, a beautiful zen garden, and for being merely old as it was erected sometime in 1255.

NONOMIYA SHRINE in Arashiyama, famous for having been mentioned in The Tale of Genji.

I also took the time to drop by the Nonomiya shrine as well as check out the commercial and eating places around Arashiyama.

KIMONO FOREST, Arashiyama, Kyoto.

Head to the so-called Kimono Forest for some photo ops with patterns of kimonos encased in acrylic pillars on display.

WANNA SEE GEISHAS in action without having to pay a fortune or the hassles of having to stalk them? Join a tea ceremony at Gion Corner before the Miyako Odori show.

In the afternoon, head back to Gion and watch geishas in action sans the hassles! Go to Gion Corner and check out the Miyako Odori, a presentation of 50 or show geishas of dances and music, which only is only shown during springtime. Before the show, guests are treated to a tea ceremony led by two geishas, where everyone’s given matcha (Japanese green tea) and a mung bean pastry. The small ceramic plates used for eating the pastry can be taken home as a souvenir!

Day 6: Narra Day

Nara's Todaiji Temple.

THE GREAT BUDDHA inside Todaiji Temple.

Head to Narra, about an hour by bus from Kyoto station. Join the walking tour to get a sneak preview of what the place has to offer aside from the free-roaming deer!

LOOK FOR THIS PILLAR inside the Todaiji Temple and see for yourself if you're gonna fit the hole and how's your chances of entering heaven going to be.

Don’t miss the Todaiji Temple, said to be the largest wooden structure despite the fact that it was scaled down to two-thirds of its original size after being burnt down. This is a must-see primarily for the Great Buddha housed within its walls. Check out that one pillar, the hole underneath of which is said to be the size of Buddha’s nostrils, and anyone who can pass through it is said to be eligible for entry into heaven.

THE FIVE-STORY pagoda in Nara.

Also head to the Kohfukuji Temple for the five-story pagoda beside it. It might also be of interest for anyone to check out the temple and the forest with lots of shrines for the departed, the small geisha district in Nara, the Seismic Museum for the experience of simulation of great earthquakes that hit Japan, as well the traditional stores selling Japanese pastries and biscuits on the way back to the train station.

Oh, when in Nara, enjoy the deer!

Day 7: Gion and Fushimi Iinari

MY FOLDING BIKE by the bridge over Shirakawa Stream.

I still can’t get enough of Gion so I went back to see how the place is at day. I then took the train going to Fushimi Inari.

SOME OF THOSE vermilion-coloured torii gates at Fushimi Inari in Kyoto.

The place is full of vermillion-coloured torii gates, each one sponsored by a company or a family. The rows of torii gates extend up to the top of the mountain which is considered as a sacred site. I went on top, and even bought coffee and hard-boiled egg on my way up to sustain my energy, but I think the tori gates at the bottom of the mountain should suffice.

And when in central Kyoto, don't forget to drop by Nishiki market where you can buy lots of food items.There are also souvenir items here but best to buy your staples such as keychains, ref magnets, or even traditional Japanese cloth at the Kyoto Station.

Day 8: Head back to Osaka

OSAKA'S Tsutenkaku Tower.

Explore Dotonburi for some street food and beer, particularly the Janjan Yokocho Alley. Don’t miss the nearby Shinsekai, which looks like a colourful amusement park for the colourful signages and shop displays. Don’t forget to pose by the Tsutenkaku Tower, Osaka’s take on the Eiffel Tower.

THE WONDERLAND that is Shinsekai.

FOOD TRIPPING in Osaka? These are just some of the fares.

STREET FOOD in Osaka.

Where to go in Singapore

2016-02-15T22:55:00.000+08:00

SINGAPORE'S FAMOUS ICON, the Merlion. But no, this is not the most photographed water-spewing statue that most tourists are familiar with. This one, albeit equally majestic, is the one in Sentosa.

"Did you ever work in Singapore?" My lawyer friend Grace once asked when I told her of travel anecdotes that is almost short of saying, "I love Singapore."

Yes, I keep coming back to Singapore. I love it in Singapore.

Maybe because Singapore was my first out-of-country destination when the travel bug first bit me. And since then, I've been there for more than eight times. I wouldn't mind having a long layover in Singapore.

"If you live in Manila, you would definitely want to be in Singapore!" said another high school classmate. She was pertaining to the horrendous Metro Manila traffic and the inefficient public transport system, which is a stark contrast to what Singapore has.

For the highly efficient train and bus system, the cleanliness, and for being an expert in giving tourists a treat, I would definitely come back to Singapore for more.

I thought I've already decided to turn my back on Singapore after I saw Bangkok. An international tourist quoted in a Philippine broadsheet even said that Singapore is "too predictable." But I don't know. I don't care. There's that lure to go back to Singapore. And for the many times that I am in Singapore, there is always something new to experience and enjoy.

The recent trip that I've had in Singapore was really meant to show my younger brother around. In crafting a four-day itinerary, the question I've had in my mind was: what's with Singapore that is worth seeing?

So here, I want to share with you a four-day itinerary that would fit a limited budget:

1. Singapore Zoo

Going to a zoo on a holiday may be just a waste of time for the adventure-seeker. For some, it can be a mere tourist trap. I've skipped many a zoos in my previous travels after realizing that a trip to Jurong Bird Park (also in Singapore) was not worth the SGD 20 entrance fee. But, as many tourists say, you haven't been to Singapore if you haven't seen the Singapore Zoo. This place is pretty well-managed, as it is as clean as how the whole of Singapore is. Divided thematically into 11 zones -- counting among them Wild Africa for the Lion King-esque array of safari animals; to Australian zone for your fare of kangaroos, koalas and other marsupials; to a Frozen Tundra in the middle of humid Southeast Asia. What was very interesting at least for myself, my brother, and my Singapore-based cousin is the Tropical Crops and Orchid Garden as we were so thrilled to see the same plants and vegetables that once thrived at our grandmother's backyard in the Philippines! The climax, for us, was the presence of betel leaves (locally called in southern Luzon as mam-in) which the elderly chew alongside smoking hand-rolled cigarettes.

Ticket prices: SGD 32 for adults, SGD 21 for kids, and SGD 14 for senior citizens. Less 30% when you book online!

2. Geylang

I was told during my first ever trip to Singapore that Geylang is the city-state's red light district. But for this trip, I had to look past the reputation and look for that store that sells film for vintage Polaroid cameras. The trip was so worth it, anyway, as the store that we went into could be a destination by itself for its vintage knick knacks ranging from wooden combs to pomade to moustache wax! To add to that, we've chanced upon a hawker stall that sells yummy cereal prawn noodle soup!

3. Arab Street

Arab Street could easily strike to anyone as the center of Islamic activities in Singapore. BUT this place could easily be the hipster's paradise or artists' haven, what with the old structures that shout Peranakan architecture that now house stores that range from carpets to clothing and anything artsy fartsy! There are also rows upon rows of restaurants that serve Middle Eastern fare (we went to the Moroccan restaurant). At Haji Lane, there are colorful murals alongside rows of quaint restaurants and bars. There was even a band playing live music along the street! There's also a hostel right in the middle of the Arab Quarter and I would love to try to make this place my base, given the chance, just to experience the charm of the place.

Average price of a meal: SGD10-20

4. Universal Studios and Sentosa

We aren't really fans of theme parks so a stroll at the free areas of Universal Studios sufficed. There was also a new covered walkway going to Sentosa from Vivo City so if you're on a tight budget, you may consider the walk -- quite scenic because of the pocket gardens and a view of the river -- for maybe half the price if you were to take the bus from somewhere. What's also good about Sentosa is that you need not be loaded in order to enjoy what it has to offer. Sure, there's the skydiving experience and the other attractions where you have to pay, but sight-seeing around the place which is essentially free, should be enough. There's the Palawan beach where you can hang out by the sandy shores (never mind that the sand is imported). You can also have photo ops by the hanging bridge which Singapore claims to be the southernmost point of continental Southeast Asia.

5. Lau Pa Sat

Foodies will definitely have a grand time at Lau Pa Sat, which is located right at the heart of the business district of Marina. There are street foods (satay, anyone?) and a lot of Malaysian, Chinese, Singaporean, Persian, and even Filipino fare at the many stalls housed in this historic landmark!

6. Gardens by the Bay
The Supertrees Grove alone -- those colorful steel structures resembling trees in Avatar -- are a major draw, especially at night when a lights show is held. And then there are those glass structures that house impressive gardens -- called Flower Dome and Cloud Forest -- where visitors pay fees to enter. BUT, again, being the budget travellers that we are, not to mention that we were already tired of walking the whole day, we just contented ourselves strolling outside and admiring the structures around and even the steel structures that surround the gardens. And oh, we also gorged barbecue and satay and gulped Milo Dinosaur at Satay by the Bay.

Post card from Venice: Post card-perfect view

2015-09-27T00:41:00.000+08:00

THE FACADE of San Geremia church and Palazzo Labia, a view right outside Hotel San Geremia and Casa Alloggi Gerotto and Calderan. Sestiere Cannaregio, Venice.

How about waking up to a view like this, as in literally?

Venice is replete with post card-perfect, photogenic places that often remind me of dream sequences. Photoholics will never run out of subjects to snap on!

As for this one, this is the view from a small, well-managed Hotel San Geremia & Casa Alloggi Gerotto & Calderan, located at the heart of Campo San Geremia in the sestiere Cannaregio of the beautiful, iconic city of Venice. The place is just a few minutes walk from the S. Lucia train station, the same station where trips from other parts of Italy stop in Venice.

The day starts quite late in Venice. Streets are not yet abuzz at around 7am, not really a good time to take photos of Venecians going about their lives amid the frenzy of excited tourists.

And so I contented myself with this view from my window, of San Geremia Church and Palazzo Labia.

Compared to the typical big cathedrals in Venice and Italy for that matter, San Geremia church is considerably simple for an edifice built sometime in the 11th century.

World wide web has it that this church is famous for St. Lucy of Syracuse, whose remains rest inside. And also compared to other Italian churches, the interiors of the church is rather sober that I did not bother taking pictures of.

Right beside it is the Palazzio Labia, which I also didn't bother looking into, only to discover that it is one of the iconic edifices in Venice with a beautiful frescoed ballroom. It's open to the public by appointment. I didn't bother because entry to most buildings in Venice charge fees which are not at all cheap given that this place is always packed with tourists. But lesson learned, there's no harm in asking for information.

Manila airport has a new lounge

2015-08-10T22:50:00.000+08:00

The Ninoy Aquino International Airport, for years tagged as world's worst airport, is slowly making some strides to make traveling easier, comfortable, and much more enjoyable for passengers.

Manila airport authorities have recently launched a facility that will surely make vagabonds and frequent travellers jump for joy -- it's The Wings Transient Lounge.

Located at the fourth floor of the NAIA terminal 3, the airport lounge features sleeping and shower facilities for the harried and weary traveller.

It has sleeping capsules meant for solo or adventurous travelers, similar to those in Japan. There are also bunk beds for twin sharing, groups of three, and a family of four.

Sleeping capsules at the NAIA lounge.

To those who are curious, this is how the sleeping capsules look like. Not really for those with claustrophobia but highly recommended for adventurous souls.

There aren't really rooms for couples. Rooms for two look like this.

There are common shower areas for travellers who want to freshen up before, after, or in between flights.

Shower facilities at The Wings Transit Lounge have heaters.

Guests who want to be pampered can have a massage, a mani, or a pedi. They can also opt to have a hair cut, too, at the lounge!

If you are in dire need of a massage, massage rooms at The Wings Transit Lounge are, should I say, above average. Price is also competitive compared to those outside the airport!

The lounge isn't free though, but I'd say it's relatively cheaper compared to other airports and similar facilities that I've been to.

Want a mani or pedi in between flights? Or just want to lounge around?

Services ans room rates and are as follows:

CAPSULE
5 hours (inclusive of light meal) - P880
8 hours (inclusive of light meal and shower) - P1,000
Extension per hour - P200

TWIN ROOM
5 hours (inclusive of light meal) - P1,600 per room or P800 per person
8 hours (inclusive of light meal and shower) - P1,800 per room or P900 per person
Extension per hour - P350 per room

BUNK ROOM (for 3 people)
5 hours (inclusive of light meal) - P2,100 per room or P700 per person
8 hours (inclusive of light meal and shower) - P2,600 per room or P880 per person
Extension per hour - P450

FAMILY ROOM
5 hours (inclusive of light meal) - P2,600 per room or P650 per person
8 hours (inclusive of light meal and shower) - P3,200 per room or P800 per person
Extension per hour - P530

LOUNGE PACKAGES
5 hours - P500 or P700 (inclusive of finger foods)
2 hours - P300 or P500 (inclusive of finger foods)
Extension per hour - P175

SHOWER FACILITIES
Shower - P300
Shower with additional services - P250

HAND AND FOOT SERVICES
Manicure - P300
Pedicure - P300
Foot scrub - P600
Package - P1,000

MASSAGE SERVICES
Massage (1 hour) - P675

The Wings Transit Lounge is located at the 4th floor of NAIA Terminal 3. It is still part of the public areas of the airport so the place is practically open even to non-passengers.

The place is being managed by the Jipang Group, the same Japan-based group that manages Networld Hotel.

Post card from Barcelona: Inside La Pedrera

2015-05-04T12:33:00.001+08:00

A view from the bottom of the courtyard of Casa Milà, or more popularly known as La Pedrera.

It was around nine in the evening, when the sun has just set in this part of the world celebrating the onset of summer, when I arrived in Barcelona.

I can still remember that it was nine, as I've missed the paella party organized by the hostel that I booked for my four-day sojourn to the capital of Spain's Catalunya region.

After a short plane ride from Rome's Ciampino Airport, a two-hour bus ride from Gerona, and two Metro rides, I made it to what seemed to me the heart of Barcelona.

It was quite a welcome for me, not because I discovered that my wallet was missing (did I lose it in Rome or just here?), but more because of the colorfully lit, odd-looking building that revealed itself after I emerged from the Passeig de Gràcia station of the Barcelona Metro.

I later on confirmed that this structure is the Casa Batlló, that is without a doubt, one of the many works of the great Antoni Gaudi that littered the city. And great works at that.

This is a must visit, I told myself, as I came to Barcelona not for the parties, not for the shopping, not for the paella (oh come on, I was still headed to Madrid, Granada, and Cordoba so definitely I'll have some other chances to sample the Spanish fare), but more because of the modern art and architecture.

But fate has it that while Casa Batlló is the one closest to my hostel, I met Gaudí -- quite up close and personal -- in another popular work of his: Casa Milà also known as La Pedrera (the quarry, as it looked like one during construction).

Built between 1905-1912, La Pedrera is Gaudí's last civil work specifically for businessman Pere Milà i Camps and his wealthy wife Roser Segimon i Artells.

The building was in a way intended to make Milà a standout among the well-heeled in Barcelona. And a standout he became considering how the design of the structure imposed itself upon the city: not your usul box-type edificio but a building that looks like an open pit quarry with unusual curvy facade, ornate wrought iron balconies, and chimneys with mosaic tiles that are considerably works of art by themselves.

The courtyard is picture-perfect (sans the hordes of tourists, har har) with its uneven walls and interiors that is typically Gaudí -- asymmetrical, colorful, wavy/curvy.

A visit to La Pedrera -- particularly on the floor where the flat of the Milàs was as well as the apartments on the upper floors -- would give one a glimpse at how the bourgeois lived in the mid-1900s as evidenced on the kind of furniture and other belongings on display.

Then at the attic is where an exhibition shows the basics of Gaudì's aesthetics. This is where I learned that aside from religious themes and modernism, his choice of nature as his inspiration best explains what a Gaudì structure is all about, which is not simply avant garde or moderne, if not odd to the uninitiated. Here I found honeycombs that served as inspiration for peepholes, ferns or dried leaves for door knobs and handles, tree trunks for pillars, canopy of leaves for ceilings and naves, and even human bones for various building elements.

Casa Batllo in Barcelona. Notice how the pillars resemble human bones. The balconies look like pelvic bones, don't you think?

The rooftop will pass as a theme park on its own, with chimneys decorated with tiles and sculpted as works of art, making it hard to believe that this was where building residents' used to hang their clothes to dry.

The chimneys at the rooftop of Casa Mila or La Pedrera. These are not merely chimneys but works of art!

The verdict? Casa Mila is a must in your itinerary to Barcelona. A visit to Barcelona is not complete without the photo ops at the rooftop of Casa Mila. A visit to Barcelona is not complete without knowing Gaudi through this one important work of his. La Pedrera, after all, will not be declared a Unesco World Heritage Site for nothing.

Tip sheet:

- Entrance to La Pedrera costs €20 for adults.

- La Pedrera is accessible through Diagonal station of the Metro.

Post card from Singapore: Jurong Bird Park

2015-04-18T00:58:00.002+08:00

Swans are a-swimming in one of the man-made lagoons inside the Jurong Bird Park in Singapore. They look so graceful and seem so harmless; but I have a different story to tell.

I will always tell this (mis) adventure of mine in this part of Singapore, which happened during my first visit to the city-state and on my first ever trip outside the Philippines.

I only fancied visiting the bird park because my parents seemed to have had a grand time there during their visit sometime in the mid-1990s. They seemed to have enjoyed the park, at least based on their pictures.

"It's nice there," my mom told me when I asked for some sort of confirmation.

And so I decided that a trip to the bird park would be part of my five-day itinerary.

But I have to tell you one thing: I am afraid of birds. Ornithophobia, as they call it. "Abnormal, irrational fear of birds," according to Wikipedia. I was like this ever since I was I kid, which has become a subject of laughter among my friends while wondering how that happened.

"You must have been a worm in a past life," said a friend, who I think is not really a friend because of this remark. Toinks!

So anyone who knows me would think a visit to a bird park would be a crazy idea.

But I thought going to this bird park is what a tourist is supposed to do to maximize the Singapore experience.

This is the time to conquer my fear, so I thought.

And so I went to the bird park all by myself, as my Singapore-based cousin was too adamant to take me there given the two-bus and two-train rides required to get me there from where we were staying.

And she didn't want mo to go there given the fact that I have ornithophobia.

It took me a few dollars for the bus and train rides and S$20 for the entrance (now its S$28 for adults), which already included a ride in a monorail that meanders through the park.

The first few aviaries that I went into were pretty nice despite the fact that huge birds really scare me.

Fowls with colorful feathers and little birds chirping, they all looked harmless as they were all in huge cages where visitors can't touch them.

All sorts of large eagles? Bring it on! They're on a leash, anyway.

Big pelicans, flamingos,kingfishers, and various species of ducks swimming on the lake? The poor creatures can't even get out of the fences!

I chanced on free-flying birds that looked like humming birds or bee-eaters at the African Waterfall Aviary, but they all seemed harmless. And besides, a view of one of the largest man-made falls -- the Jurong Falls -- did not disappoint.

But what caused my palpitations was the large aviary called Lory Loft. As the name suggests, it contained almost every species of parrots, lorikeets, and macaws.

But as soon as I passed by the barrier made of plastic chains, I was so surprised to see all of them flying around freely inside the huge aviary.

And then I stepped out. To breathe. To collect myself. To regain my composure.

And I was reminded of my mission: to conquer my fear.

So I stepped in again, only to find several bright red and yellow macaws perched on the head and shoulders of what seemed to me was a caretaker. And large birds swarming on God knows who he is!

I stepped out again, with a firm resolve to run away from the aviary.

And to cap off my visit to Jurong Bird Park, I went to an auditorium to see a large hawk show off antics at the aviary. It was for free but still a bad decision for the ornithophobic, I thought, as the show had a portion where the bird will fly from the guy onstage to one of the kids in the audience! To save myself from humiliation, I had to move away from the eager-beaver kids who wanted to experience the bird up close and personal!

As for the ornithophobic me, was it a good decision to travel that far (and spend that much) for what could easily be considered as a tourist trap?

Well, the ornithophobic thinks it's a waste of S$20.

But for bird lovers, bird watchers, or simply all of you out there who aren't afraid of birds, by all means, go and enjoy yourselves!

Photo above was taken using Nikon FG powered by Fuji 400 film. The author aimed to take a beautiful picture of pink flamingos, only that palpitations due to his fear of these beautiful creatures prevented him from doing so.

Post card from the Philippines: El Nido, Palawan

2014-12-14T02:20:00.001+08:00

I've been to quite a number of countries. I've even established a reputation as a "Europhile" for being an avid visitor of the continent. Sure, I've made some rounds of my own country before I've embarked overseas, but those travels were limited to the most accessible provinces from Manila -- that is, Northern Luzon (Ilocos), a couple of business trips to Boracay, and so many coverages in Cebu and other nearby cities where there's little chance to really look around. Sadly, I have to admit, I am a stranger in my own country.

Two years ago, I've decided to give Europe a break and decided to check out South Korea. Then Japan. Then I willingly let my friends drag me to El Nido in Palawan when air fares were offered at a bargain.

Palawan was recognized by CNN and Conde Nast, among many other institutions, as the destination to check out for 2014. And it was not without reason.

I really have mixed expectations when I decided to push through with this trip: quite excited because for once, I'm not a solo traveler as I'm beach bumming with friends; for another, I've heard so many raving reviews about the province. But having seen Boracay beforehand -- the most overrated tourist attraction in the Philippines -- I kept my expectations at bay.

But as soon as we got off from the six-hour van ride from Puerto Prinsesa airport, my jaw dropped at the sight of limestone cliffs and turquoise waters from the beachfront resorts at El Nido town proper. And there was more on the following day, when my friends and I plus a Japanese tourist that we met along the way went on a day-long boat ride that took us to six islands close by. I was in awe. I couldn't believe I've skipped this beauty for more expensive travels outside of my country.

White sand beaches, clear waters, beautiful marine life, delicious sea food, breath-taking views, and more. I don't know what else to say about the beauty that is El Nido.

Photo above shows a view of the beach from an unnamed island in El Nido, Palawan, Philippines.

Post card from the Philippines: Paoay church

2014-08-05T10:03:00.000+08:00

The Philippines is blessed with beautiful beaches, majestic mountains, and the scenic volcanoes. It might be a challenge to decide where to go and what to do in this country made up of 7,107 islands. But if and ever you are to visit this Southeast Asian nation, don't miss the baroque churches. One of my highly recommended sites: Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte.

Paoay Church at dusk. This photo was taken using film.

Practically every town has its own lumang simbahan (old church) constructed during the Spanish occupation, including my own home town of Lipa, whose well-preserved frescoes are a sight to behold during masses

But when I chanced on a personal trip to Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur (and a media tour exactly a month thereafter where I was fortunate enough to watch Filipina piano virtuoso Cecile Licad play inside the church), I just realized that there's more beyond my Southern Luzon hometown.

What makes Paoay church so fascinating is how it stands out in the middle of this hot, desert-like province.

The walls are made of coral stone and bricks, and some experts said it was constructed using egg whites. I don't know how possible is that but this manner of construction was said to have been practiced in other parts of the country, hence the abundance of pastries using egg yolks in certain provinces.

What makes this church distinct (as well as the other Baroque churches in Northern Philippines) from those in Spain is the presence of large buttresses to make the structure earthquake-proof.

The bell tower on the side, which stands separated from the church, makes the church even more picturesque (sorry I can't find my nice photos of the church with the bell tower on it, teehee).

What's saddening about this structure, though, is the absence of vaulted ceilings (and of course the lack of beautiful frescoes as with other Agustinian churches in the country). I was told that sometime in 2004 or 2005, the bishop or the parish priest has ordered the destruction of the vaulted ceiling -- with much opposition from the parishoners -- as bat poop and pee destroy it, anyway.

As far as I remember, there was a promise of having it restored. But when my mom went there a couple of months ago, the ceiling is still made up of GI sheets that make it look like it's dilapidated.

But even without the vaulted ceiling, Paoay Church is still a must-see.

Tip sheet:
1. Aside from Paoay Church, other places of interest in this town are the Malacañang of the North (the presidential palace that could be an equivalent to the summer palaces or second or third residences of royals in Europe) and the Paoay Sand Dunes.
2. It is possible to do all these on a daytrip, coming from Laoag, Ilocos Norte or from Vigan, Ilocos Sur.

Cherry blossoms in Kyoto, Japan

2014-04-13T00:38:00.002+08:00

Word has it that the Japanese government will soon remove visa requirements for some Asian countries, the Philippines among them, and perhaps Indonesia and Vietnam will be included.

That will be sometime in June 2014.

But for the shoestring traveler who can only afford a one-time-big-time trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, there's no need to rush booking the cheapest fares and heading straight on to Japan. I highly suggest that you make your trip to Japan sometime during Spring -- mid-March to mid-April, to be precise -- so that you can catch the cherry blossoms at their peak.

I really can't imagine just yet how Japan is without the cherry blossoms. Sure, it would be fun to enjoy the cosmopolitan Tokyo, try out the rides in Tokyo Disneyland or the Universal Studios in Osaka, or go check out Mount Fuji. It must also be quite an adventure during the colder months when northern Japan becomes a winter wonderland.

But for me, cherry blossoms accentuating Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, as well as rows upon rows of flowering trees that look like cotton from afar, are a sight to behold. The chilly air is a bonus for someone coming from humid weather all-year round.

I'm not really sure if Kyoto is the best place in Japan to celebrate the beauty of cherry blossoms. When I did my research, it just appeared that Kyoto is so blessed with lots of cherry trees that beautifully blossom come spring time, and luckily, it is close to Osaka where the cheapest flights to Japan are coming from Manila.

There are particular places around Kyoto that are said to be the best spots to go cherry blossom-viewing. I wasn't able to follow every place mentioned in every guidebook that I've read. But I guess I've encountered the not-so popular yet beautiful spots in Kyoto where cherry blossom-viewing can also be enjoyed.

1. The Philosopher's Path
The Philosopher's Path (or Path of Philosophy, depends on how maps are translated) is listed as one of the more favored spots in Kyoto for viewing cherry blossoms. Various sources indicate that the path, which is about 1.5 kilometers long, would take 30 minutes to walk on. Quite a long walk for the Kyoto University philosopher who wandered on this path, isn't it? The entire stretch of the path that runs through a canal is lined with hundreds of cherry trees. Just imagine how surreal it is when the wind blows and the petals fly dramatically while you stroll under the canopy of pinkish-white flowers! It took me more than 30 minutes to walk on the Philosopher's Path as I checked the temples along the way such as the Ginkakuji Temple or the so-called the Silver Pavilion, Honen-in Temple, as well as the cute souvenir shops and quaint eating places along the way.

Suggested tour of the area should follow this order, although I avoided the temples that charge entrance fees as I was on a tight budget: Hakusa-sonso Garden, Ginkakuji Temple, Philosopher's Path, Kumano Nyakuoji Shrine, Eikan-do Temple, Nomura Museum, Nanzenji Temple, and Konchi-in Temple.

How to get there: Take bus no. 5 (A1), 17 (A2) or 100 (D1) at the Kyoto station and get off at Ginkakuji Station. Some of these buses also pass by Gion.

One of the less flattering parts of the Philosopher's Path. Sorry, I didn't do justice!

2. The Old Rail Tracks by Nanzenji Temple
On your way out from the Philosopher's Path going to the subway station, you won't miss the old rail tracks lined with hundreds of cherry trees! When I reached this point, I couldn't say anything but, "wow, wow, wow!" It's so beautiful despite the horde of tourists (and couples that are about to get married) who want to have their pictures taken here.

Rail tracks no longer in use outside Nanzenji Temple.

3. Arashiyama
Tourists flock to Arashiyama because of the bamboo forest, which bode well for selfie addicts and shutter-happy travelers. But the place, being home to a couple of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is also a good place to go cherry blossom-viewing.

Tenryu-Ji Temple at Arashiyama, Kyoto.

Boats docked at Katsura River in Arashiyama. Cherry trees are aplenty, which must have looked prettier during the full bloom of the blossoms.

4.Shirakawa area in Gion
Touted as the center of geisha culture, Gion prides itself for the traditional Japanese structures that serve as ochaya (teahouse) and okiya (boarding house for geishas), the Gion shrine, and, more appropriately, the beautiful cherry trees at the Shirakawa area. Take note that while the cherry blossoms are a sight to behold in the morning, these seem to glow at night especially when lit.

Cherry blossoms at night in Gion.

So many cherry blossoms at the Gion shrine!

5. Bank of Kamo River at Kawaramachi-dori

I was wondering why the bank of the Kamo River isn't considered a prime spot for cherry blossom-viewing or hanami. My first view of Kyoto was on my way out of Kawaramachi station, and there was a long avenue lined with cherry trees. Even the doorstep of the hostel where I was billeted, which is parallel to Kawaramachi-dori at the Miyagawa Suji, is greeted with cherry blossoms!

My folding bike, an Enda Leo, by the banks of Kamo River.

Another photo of my folding bike, this time at Miyagawa-suji.

6. That street by the Takase-gawa River
Just across the Kamo-gawa River from Miyagawa-suji and Gion is a narrow body of water called Takase-gawa River. Cherry blossoms right by the river, with traditional Japanese buildings and houses around, make for a good place for photo ops.

Another photo of my bike, by the Takase-gawa River.

Shoestring budget to Paris

2014-02-25T00:37:00.000+08:00

I guess the mere mention of “Europe” will never fail to conjure an image of the Eiffel Tower. The French monument – the most visited in the world until Notre Dame de Paris overtook the lead sometime in 2012 – has become too iconic that it almost represents what the entire continent is all about.

Indeed, for this tower, much more for the city's old worldly beauty, food, fashion, art and everything in between, a stop in Paris is a must for every trip to Europe.

A typical view of Paris (sans the Eiffel Tower) on a beautiful Spring morning.

But being the must-see and touristy that the French capital has become, a visit surely comes at a price. Even if one is not intent on buying a Louis Vuitton bag or a Cartier watch (where it is relatively cheaper) it is certain that every traveler is bound to spend quite a hefty amount.

And this leads us to a very sensitive yet important question: how much does one spend on a trip to Paris?

A recent article on the Internet has caused quite a stir on the world wide web among Filipino Europhiles (including myself) for pegging the amount to a mere P55,600 ($1,236) for an all-inclusive Parisian getaway for four days and three nights.

I’m not really a frequent visitor of Paris but after three backpacking trips to this city, I have doubts if one is to survive for four days with this amount.

I am not to dispute the price tag of every item that the writer mentioned in the article. I’ll just try to come up with a realistic budget for a less frills yet satisfying trip to Paris.

Plane Fare - $900-$1,400 or P40,500-P63,000 (return trip)

Bulk of the expense if one is to mount a trip to Paris coming from Manila is the plane fare. Fares can be as low as $900 (P40,500) on promos, and about $1,400 (P63,000) on normal days. Fares are normally low during the cold months (November up to early March), but here’s the thing for tropical islanders (yes, I mean you, fellow Pinoys!): Paris is not at its most beautiful during the dead of winter when the sun is not out. I guarantee, the cloudy if not rainy weather can be depressing! If you’ve been wanting to experience snow, then by all means aim for that white Christmas winter getaway. But based from experience, I can say that the Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower are at their best when the sun is shining. When looking for the cheapest plane fares, compare the fares as listed on the websites of every airline that you know (Qatar Airways, Thai Airways, Etihad, Emirates, Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines, AirAsia, etc.). Don’t forget your ever reliable travel agent as they may have better deals for you.

The Sacre Coeur will not look this pretty if not for the sunlight.

Visa Fee at the French Embassy -- €60 or P3,600

This fee excludes any other expense that might be incurred in getting an authenticated birth certificate, photos for the visa, and securing other documents.

Travel Insurance - €16 or P960 for 5 days

Travel insurance is a must when securing a Schengen visa. The amount stated is the cheapest that I’ve found so far. If you want to know where to get insurance policy for cheaps, send me a private message.

Accommodations - €35 or about P2,300/night

If you are really on a shoestring budget, a hostel is your best bet (next to your friend’s or relative’s apartment or a kindred soul traveler’s couch, which is, of course, free). The price stated is that of a dorm room of a hostel up in Montmartre, which is about 14 Metro stations away from the Latin Quarter or Republique, where the center of the universe is when you are in Paris. Make it a room for your lonesome and move it nearer to the center – say, somewhere near Gare du Nord or Republique (or if you have more moolah to spare, make it a stone’s throw away from the Eiffel Tower), then the price goes higher. Leave no stone unturned and look at the deals in Agoda, Hostelworld, AirBnB, Bookings.com, among many other websites.

Food – €80-100 or P4,800-6,000 for a 4-day, three-night stay

A P1,000 or less than €20 budget for food is an insult to a place known for having one of the well-loved cuisines in the world. Escargot (snails), frites (fries), foie gras (goose liver pate), a wide selection of French pastries (macarons and éclairs!) and a bottle of French wine (from €2-6 or P120-P360 per bottle in grocery stores) will not make it in this kind of budget! My benchmark when it comes to allocating budget for meals in Europe are the prices of a McDonald’s meal. A meal which consists of a burger, drink, and salad or fries (or potato wedges) would be about €7.50 or P450. The cheapest plat du jour (menu for the day) in restaurants and quaint eating places around Montmartre or Latin Quarter starts at €10 or about P600, which already includes salad or a generous serving of foie gras, pasta or grilled chicken with fries, and sorbet or apple pie for dessert. A large slab of steak served with fries and sauce that restaurant L’Entrecote has been famous for is €25. Since breakfast at the hostel is free, my suggestion is to allocate €10 (P600) each for lunch and dinner and reserve a budget for L’Entrecote and for sampling French pastries (macarons de Paris at Laduree or Pierre Herme are a must!). If you're really on a tight budget, a trip to the grocery for a cook-your-own-meal should give you a 4-euro meal.

A generous serving of foie gras, or goose liver pate.

Signage indicating what's cooking (and how much) outside one of the eating places around Montmartre.

Transportation - €50-60 or about P3,000-P3,600

Unlimited rides at Paris’ Metro for three days cost about €30 or P1,755. It can be much more expensive if you’ll get a pass that will give you access to the suburbs including Versailles. But I think the out-of-town destination that is worth visiting is La Vallee for the outlet store of signature products as well as Versailles for its palace. I suggest you just buy an unlimited ticket only for Paris city center and buy separate tickets if you are intent on going out of town. Don’t forget that you also have to take the bus going to and from the airport, which costs €10 (P600) per person per trip (the Roissy bus from Charles de Gaule and Opera).

A Metro station.

Museums - €12-16 or P720-960 for three museums

If you are spending just four days and three nights in Paris, I don’t really suggest buying an unlimited museum pass which costs €56 or P3,360. Even if you are an art lover, you wouldn’t want to spend your entire time in Paris just staring at every painting, photograph or sculpture in the museums! Even if you are intent on seeing EVERY ARTWORK housed in the Louvre, the collections are so extensive that a 30-second stare at each artwork would take three months to finish! If you’re really itching on seeing Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, then go to the Louvre (€12 or P720 for the permanent collection). If you want to see the other museums, do your research and determine which ones you want to visit. I’ve been to the Louvre already and I want to check out the works at Centre de Pompidou (€10 or P600) and Musee L’Orangerie and Musee d’Orsay (€16 or P960 for the two museums). Please note that there are times when admissions to the museums are FREE, which is normally every first Sunday of the month.


At the courtyard of the Louvre.

Inside the Louvre. Taken during my first trip to Paris sometime in January 2009.

Souvenirs - €20 or about P1,200

Souvenirs sold at Montmartre are relatively cheaper than in other parts of Paris. A small Eiffel Tower keychain could be about €1 (P60), while shirts or coasters cost about €10 (P600). If you’re not really bent on buying that much, then this budget should be enough. Hint: the small Eiffel Tower keychains are sold for €1 for five pieces from the African guys walking around Place du Trocadero or Ecole Militaire (read: under the Eiffel Tower itself!).

Guided tours – €5-10 or P300-600

FREE guided tours are very common across Europe, and Paris isn’t an exception. Take for example Sandeman’s guided tour that showed me around Paris and Montmartre. It’s practically free but tipping is encouraged. I remember what Amelia, a Mexican national studying in Paris and working part-time as a tour guide, said before we commenced our walking tour: “If you’re not satisfied, I accept a kick in the butt!” But even if you’re traveling on a shoestring, you don’t want to do that. Do you really need a guided tour around Paris? Yes. Why? Click HERE.

So for our grand total:

P61,980 up to P86,820

or $1,511 up to $1,930.

Just a piece of advice: always see to it that you have extra cash or have your credit card ready for any emergencies (sudden decision to buy a Long Champ or LV is not counted! Wehehe).

And a question before you embark on your trip to Paris: will you really spend that much money for plane fare for only four days in Europe? Another hint: there are so many places in Europe that are (arguably) prettier than Paris!

Note:
Conversions are based on €1=P60 and $1=45.

For more about planning your trips, read Planning the Road Ahead or click HERE.
For more about the FREE (tip-based, that is) walking tours of Paris, check out my entry titled, Paris on Foot or click HERE.
There are also FREE walking tours of Montmartre, touted as The Real Paris. You may also read up about that HERE.

Bringing a bike on a plane trip

2014-02-04T19:39:00.001+08:00

Should we -- or can we -- really bring our bikes when we go on a foreign trip via plane?

I thought it was plain madness that would bring unnecessary hassles when my friend insisted that we bring our folding bikes on our trip to Seoul.

As a frequent traveler, I know that I’m bound to try my luck (again!) on getting away with exceeding on my baggage space on my flight back home as I figure out how to fit my accumulated nick-knacks in a standard 20-kilo baggage allowance. What more with a 14-kilo bicycle?

And knowing South Korea as a progressive country especially when it comes to the use of bikes as alternative mode of transportation, I was pretty sure renting a bike would be a cinch -- and a better option at that.

But my friend stood her ground: “whether you’re bringing your bike or not, I’ll bring mine.”

She won. I succumbed to peer pressure.

So if your friends are gonna do the same to you or if you’re simply curious if it’s indeed possible to bring a bike in a plane (YES IT IS POSSIBLE!), here’s what I did:

1. Before packing my bags, I made sure that I’m not paying for excess baggage by calling up my airline to inquire about buying additional baggage space. Frequent travelers can surely relate to that horrendous sight of that digital weighing scale indicating that your baggage has exceeded a kilo, and next, the rip-off rates for excess baggage that can go from P200 to P600 per kilo (about $5 to $14), and thousands of pesos elsewhere (say, in Italy, where RyanAir charged me 40 euros for excess baggage!). The per kilo rate is much more expensive compared to buying additional luggage space beforehand. Additional five kilos of baggage allowance can cost about P1,000. If you fail to buy additional baggage allowance while booking your ticket, this can be arranged by calling your airline at least four hours before your flight. Just prepare your credit card for faster transaction.

Some airlines say sports equipment are charged differently. But since my bike is foldable and not used for competition, it’s not really necessary to declare it as a sports equipment where airlines charge higher rates. When the ground attendants ask you what’s inside that oversize bag, be honest and tell them that it’s a folding bike.


Just so you have an idea, that's how big my folding bike is when put inside a bike bag. The stroller was destroyed upon arrival in Seoul. Photo by Sharon Bancoro.

2. Pack your bike in a proper bike bag. I borrowed a bike bag from a fellow biker, where my Enda Leo folding bike fit perfectly. In order to reduce scratches on your bike during the course of the plane ride, buy some bubble wrap from the hardware store (about P30 or less than $1 per meter in Manila). If you have extra budget, buy some foam so that your bike won’t rip the bag. Ask the check in guys to put “fragile” mark on your bike bag. Well, I don’t really think the baggage handlers take the fragile mark seriously, but hey, my bike came out fine except that I lost one of the wheels of my stroller.

That's my bike with the bubble wrap and the bike bag ready for check in!

3. Don’t forget to bring your helmet and other gears like air pump, lights and blinkers, and some ropes to tie your stuff with if you have a bike rack, and of course a chain with a lock so you can leave your bike in peace while you’re checking out the tourist attractions.

In full battle gear: biking in Bukcheon in Seoul with my helmet and a backpack-full of gears! Photo by Sharon Bancoro.

4. Pack light! Make sure the luggage that contains your clothes and other personal effects is light enough as it can be difficult going out of the airport, taking the bus or train to your hotel while dragging a heavy luggage and a big bike bag.

My friend's luggage including the bike inside the Brompton bag. If you just have this and a small knapsack, you'll be fine. Photo by Sharon Bancoro.

Was bringing my own bike worth the excess baggage fee and the hassle of having to lug an oversize bag? Hell yeah, and I'm gonna do it again for my next trip!

Reviving Ermita

2013-12-30T23:38:00.000+08:00

TIME WAS when Manila was considered as the most beautiful city in Asia. Old pictures show how the Americans attempted a beautiful master plan of the city, with Manila’s magnificent columned structures, beautiful art deco buildings, clean sidewalks and tree-lined boulevards.

The new

But as these photos circulate through social media, those born between the 1940s and the ’60s and the bewildered younger ones are always left with the same question: What happened?

I remember my mother used to tell me that the place to be seen in the 1950s was Escolta in downtown Manila, while Ermita -- considered a major cultural and financial hub in the city of Manila at the time -- was the go-to place for the government offices and various business establishments.

People would go to Ermita for leisurely walks at Luneta (Rizal Park), to visit the nearby National Museum, or to transact business at government offices like the columned edifices of the Supreme Court and the Court of Appeals, the Department of Tourism, the Legislative Building (now the branch of the National Museum housing the National Art Gallery). Ermita was also peppered with art nouveau and art deco buildings and stately homes, this being the site of many second homes of the wealthy as early as the late 1800s.

But today, baby boomers can only say with much regret that Manila has seen better days, and the Ermita that they now see is far different from what it was during its heyday.

In the 1970s, Ermita became notorious for the string of bars and night clubs that made it Manila’s red light district. To be fair, former Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim, during his term in the 1990s, tried his best to change Ermita’s image by getting rid of these notorious establishments.

Today Metro Manila denizens have simply exchanged Ermita for the posh, more developed Makati, Bonifacio Global City, Eastwood or Ortigas Center for obvious reasons.

The area’s once beautiful art nouveau buildings -- still being used by foreign exchange dealers, travel and overseas employment agencies, and run-of-the-mill art shops -- make a passerby think twice about entering due to their sorry states.

The sidewalks are filled with filth, while almost every corner is occupied by vagrants.

REBUILDING ERMITA
The city government of Manila is now making concrete steps to reclaim the city’s glory, beginning with Ermita.

Tour guide and cultural activist Carlos P. Celdran, who was also appointed Manila tourism consultant by former President and now Manila Mayor Joseph “Erap” Ejercito Estrada, has organized “barter” walking tours of the district, where participants give whatever they want in exchange for the tour.

The move was meant to pique people’s interest, and to show them that Ermita still holds promise as a leisure and tourist destination. It is also a way to gather feedback from the tour-goers as to what needs to be done to make the place come alive again.

And so one fine Sunday back in November, Mr. Celdran led a pack of about a hundred yuppies to check out what’s in store for them in Ermita.

“To revive our streets, we should put back things on the streets and not [keep them] inside the mall,” Mr. Celdran said at one of the tours.

Our first stop was Casa Tesoro on A. Mabini St., a stately art deco home that is now home to 1335 Mabini gallery that showcases sculptures, tribal art, and works by up-and-coming artists.

Right across Casa Tesoro is Munchen, which Mr. Celdran said should be considered a heritage restaurant for being the oldest German eatery in the country. He said that those with discerning palates looking for authentic German fare still frequent the place despite its rundown-looking façade.

The next stop was what was once called Marilou Apartments and is now known as the Lotus Garden Hotel, an art deco building that due to successful restoration and adaptive reuse, still has that old Manila feel in it with its cozy interiors and walls teeming with pictures of the Manila of yore.

Along M.H. del Pilar St. is the famous Hobbit House, another popular destination for its staff composed of “little people,” JRR Tolkien-inspired interiors, and, of course, the quality jazz acts.

And then there’s the Ermita Church, the very reason for the area’s name. “Ermita” comes from “La Hermita” or the hermitage -- that this church was. The church, founded in the 1600s, has undergone several face-lifts through the centuries, the last of which was in 1951 after it was razed by fire.

Inside the Ermita Church. Ermita is named such as this church used to be called "La Hermita," or place for hermits.

Close to the church is the Office Piano Bar, another iconic establishment in the area and arguably the oldest bar in Manila.

On the way to Luneta park, the group also passed by other iconic establishments -- the Solidaridad Bookstore of National Artist for Literature F. Sionil Jose, the Hiraya Art Gallery, and the Philamlife Building, an architectural gem from the 1950s. The Philamlife Auditorium, a favorite venue for orchestral, classical and choral performances as it has what is said to be the best acoustics in Metro Manila, is now the subject of controversy because of SM Development Corp.’s plan to construct a residential condominium on the site.

As we reached Rizal Park, Mr. Celdran changed his tone from regretful to excited given the recent enhancements at the park.

Artworks at one of the gardens within Rizal Park (Luneta).

He said the park’s image as a haven for muggers, pickpockets and smooching lovers is slowly changing with a series of improvements -- for instance the renovation of the gardens, the installation of CCTV cameras, and the removal of eye-sore stores.

“Once upon a time, Luneta was one of the most dangerous places in Manila. Now it’s the safest,” Mr. Celdran said. “Luneta is the lungs, heart and soul of Manila. Luneta is where we should start change in Manila.”

At the tail end of the walking tour, we were brought to the newly restored 1912 beaux arts-style building that is now the boutique hotel called Luneta. Close by, the last stop on the tour was the Miramar Hotel, another art deco gem built during the 1930s along Roxas Blvd. which once belonged to the Ortigas family and now being run by the Pe family.

Miramar Hotel, an art nouveau gem at Roxas Boulevard, was also built in the 1930s.

HOTELIERS, RESTAURATEURS, UNITE!
Efforts to revive Ermita are not limited to the government as the area’s business owners have teamed up to revive it.

Michelle M. Pe, vice-president of the Ermita Malate Business Owners Association (EMBOA), said business for hotels, restaurants and other establishments within the area is not that good as they feel the pinch of people’s preference for the more “chic” parts of Metro Manila.

“This was once a beautiful city. We would want to bring back the old Manila. Originally, this is the tourist destination. What makes this different from Makati is we have the heritage,” said Ms. Pe, who also manages Miramar Hotel, in an interview.

Recently, the sidewalks within Ermita and Malate were tidied up, while business owners were encouraged to look after their own premises and ensure cleanliness.

EMBOA, which consists mostly of hoteliers and restaurateurs, also donated bicycles to the Manila police to ensure police visibility at night, especially given that petty crimes are one of the turnoffs for tourists in Manila.

The group is also looking at the establishment of a private sector-run body similar to the Makati Commercial Estate Association (MACEA) that will oversee security concerns and ensure smooth traffic flow within the district.

And to further lure tourists to Ermita, business owners -- particularly the hotels -- now regularly come up with half-priced deals and promote “staycationing” in their properties.

“This is the capital. We have to show them what we’ve got,” EMBOA President Alberto L. Torrijos said in another interview.

Mr. Celdran’s job, however, doesn’t end with Ermita. He said reviving the whole of Manila is a tall order from the mayor.

While work is being done to bring back the glory of Manila, Mr. Celdran’s plea to Metro Manila residents and visitors, still, is to consider frequenting the other sites within the city that will definitely be worth their time and money.

“This is just half. There’s still Intramuros and Chinatown!” Mr. Celdran said.

*This article was published at the Weekender section of BusinessWorld on Dec. 27, 2013.

Bringing a bike on a foreign trip

2013-11-24T22:48:00.002+08:00

I just got home from another personal trip abroad. But what makes this trip different aside from going to a different country this time is that I brought my own bike! I should say a feat in my life as a traveler. How was it?

That's coming up next!

Scam City Marrakech

2013-11-08T22:20:00.000+08:00

MARRAKECH is an assault to the senses.

It started with a greeting -- the cool breeze from the snow-capped Atlas mountains as soon as I landed at the Menara airport. Then came the view of that iconic façade made famous by the second installment of Sex and the City movie that unjustly identified Menara and the whole of Marrakesh as Abu Dhabi.

The sensory feast went on when I stepped out of bus No. 19 after a 20-minute ride from the airport, and I walked inside the heart of the old walled city, the medina.

From the bus stop to the market or souk, I found the ever-present orange juice stalls, shops selling herbs and bold-colored powdered spices shaped in tall cones, stores lined with hanging metal and stained glass lanterns, and tables teeming with leather goods fresh out of the tannery. And as I blended with the hustle and bustle of Arabs in this North African kingdom, I heard the distinct sound of Moroccan wind instruments and bongos fused with pop rhythms being played right in the middle of the marketplace.

And when night fell, at the main square in front of the souk, I braved the exotic fare of chicken tangine cooked with vegetables and spices in conical clay pots, fresh olives and escargot soup at one of the food stalls that make up the night market.

I could hear the snake charmers, the story tellers, and the freak show artists trying to lure tourists to check out their acts.

It is probably this seemingly “old world,” exotic, and mysterious culture that draws millions of tourists from all over the world to Marrakesh. I for one was one of the curious tourists who made my way from Madrid to the old capital of Morocco -- once the crossroads of cultures and a major trading post in North Africa and Europe -- to experience a place that is practically unheard of by many Filipinos.

Assault to the pocket
But while the colorful culture can be an assault to the senses, the tourist trap that is the medina has also become an assault to tourists’ pockets.

In fact, had it not for the TV series Scam City, I would not have realized that I was scammed and ripped off in many transactions during my four-day stay there.

Based from my experience and the modus operandi that Scam City revealed in its episode on Marrakesh, the scammers in the medina will surely give Quiapo and Divisoria snatchers a run for their money.

I already had a clue when a man approached me at the bus station at Place D’Jemaa el-Fnaa and offered me “help” in locating my hostel.

Tired from an early morning flight from Madrid, I accepted the offer considering that I was facing a “chaotic” place not too different from wet markets in the Philippines, after having been spoiled in “orderly” Europe.

After a 15-minute walk, we found my hostel but he asked me for money -- I gave an amount equivalent to about ₱50.

“So asking for directions here isn’t free?” I muttered to Victor, a Brazilian who happened to be on the same plane I was in and who was also billeted in the same hostel where I was booked.

“I already guessed how they work here that’s why I walked alone,” he said.

The way inside the souk can be unpleasant as store keepers tend to be intrusive with the way they ask passersby to check out their goods.

As Morocco is not a common destination for Southeast Asians, storekeepers called me by different names as I walked through the maze that is the souk -- Mr. Malaysia, Mr. Korea, ni hao China, arigatu Japan.

It was even difficult to take pictures of the spices and other goods, as a mere look would prompt the storekeepers to force you to buy from them!

A teenaged boy approached me and offered to help me back to the main square when he guessed that I lost my way inside the souk. When we reached what seemed to be a shortcut to the square, he forced his hand into my shirt pocket to take all my coins after I said that I didn’t have any dirhams left (thank God my wallet was actually empty at the time!). But worse, the boy had brought me to a dead end that was nowhere near the main square.

Dangers in the medina

Conor Woodman, host and producer of Scam City, made himself a prey to the scams in order to be able to demonstrate the dangers and annoyances one can experience within the medina.

Purchase what storekeepers say are antique rugs for 2,000 Moroccan dirhams (about ₱10,500), then learn that experts and legitimate sellers in the modern city outside the medina say these are not really antique and should cost only 500-700 Moroccan dirhams (about ₱2,600-3,700).

At the Jemaa el-Fnaa square, card players entice onlookers to place bets where one is sure to lose big time.

A few steps from the flock of card players are the snake charmers, tunic-clad men who force tourists to play with the poor reptiles -- an activity that would make a 300-Moroccan dirham (about ₱1,600) dent on the backpacker’s budget.

“For good luck! For good sex!” the scammers would tell tourists.

Then come the Gnawa or the traditional North African dancers, who dance and play traditional Moroccan instruments around the unsuspecting travelers. They offer their tasseled headdress to the tourists as “a gift” but after a few clicks of the camera, the prey will be charged 200-Moroccan dirham (a little over ₱1,000).

And probably the last to force themselves into the unwitting tourists are the guys carrying chained malnourished monkeys, who offer photo ops for 100 Moroccan dirhams (about ₱500).

Mr. Woodman said these guys make up a small-time yet organized group in Marrakesh.

Those who have been there couldn’t agree more.

“They work together dude, you can see that in their eyes!” a viewer of the Scam City episode posted on YouTube wrote in the comments section.

A Moroccan asking for money for showing me the way to my hostel is not unusual, with another viewer of the same video on YouTube saying:

“Even the dentist guy on that square wanted money after I took a pic of him sitting. A big ‘f*ck you!’ he got.”

These are only some of the annoyances that one can experience when roaming around Marrakesh. But should this discourage travelers from experiencing what the place can offer? Not at all.

Nice people
Moroccans can be warm people. For instance the attendants at my hostel spoke to me so politely and
reassuringly even if they could only utter a mix of French and Arabic and nary a single English word.

Some storekeepers at the souk, despite being so intrusive, will even offer you thé à la menthe (Moroccan mint tea) even if you just bought a small trinket from them.

Prices may be jacked up with the souk being the tourist trap that it is, but haggling Pinoy tiangge (flea market) style isn’t prohibited. The adventurous tourist will be rewarded with unusual finds ranging from camel skin leather bags, to bold-colored scarves, to an extra cup of freshly squeezed orange juice.

A trip to this historical city should by itself be an achievement.

Considering the dangers and annoyances that I faced and those that I managed to avoid, I should have the license to tell my grandchildren someday, “I survived Marrakesh.”

*This story originally appeared at the Nov. 8-9, 2013 edition of BusinessWorld Weekender. While I took the photos, copyright is already BusinessWorld's.

Paco Cemetery - A Post-Halloween Treat

2013-11-04T23:14:00.001+08:00

Tomb of the unknown at Paco Cemetery.

It is quite ironic in Manila that a place that's supposed to be eerie, spooky and unwholesome for being a resting place for the rich and famous (now they're unknown, as shown by the tombs) is also one of the most popular wedding venues in the metro!

History books say the Paco Cemetery was built by the Spaniards in 1800 where the wealthy residents of Intramuros can have their dead buried outside of the walled city.

The remains of the wealthy were put inside the hollow circular wall. As the population grew, an outer wall was built, expanding the place to over 4,000 square-meter facility that it is today, historical sources say.

If I remember it right, tour guide Carlos Celdran said in his short TV segment dubbed "Kwentong Kanto" that a similar circular cemetery was planned and did not came into fruition, in what is now known as Remedios Circle located behind the Malate Church in Manila.

National hero Jose Rizal was buried at Paco Cemetery when he was executed in 1898, before his remains were transferred at his monument at Luneta (Rizal Park).

Paco Cemetery was also used by the Japanese forces during World War 2, leading to its destruction.

The church, dedicated to St. Pancratius, was a later addition.

Although it can be a bit morbid to hold what is supposedly a romantic wedding celebration here, it is understandable that Paco Cemetery is a popular venue for garden weddings and receptions given the different ambience of the adobe walls of the cemetery and the Spanish-style architecture of the church itself. The pathways on top of the walls even bode well for excellent photo ops (and pre-nuptial videos, of course)!

The culturati even hold regular classical concerts here called "Paco Park Presents".

St. Pancratius Church at Paco Park or Paco Cemetery. For its coziness, romantic feel and Spanish-era architecture, this church has become a favorite venue for weddings.

But as a tourist, should you go there? I would say that the place is not entirely spooky. But I guess this deserves half of your day (including the trip going to and from the place) for its impressive architecture, conservation efforts, and the serene ambience in the middle of busy Manila area. It would be better if you can have historical perspective of the place, so if you can spend a few hundreds of pesos, get the services of popular Manila tour guides (Celdran being one of them) where they will take you not only to the cemetery but to other places of interest nearby.

Tip sheet:
- the Park is open from 8am to 5pm daily except Wednesdays.
- entrance is free.
- there are clean rest rooms inside.
- Paco Cemetery is close to Padre Faura St. (the same street where the columned Supreme Court is, only that the cemetery is on the other side of Taft Ave.). It can be quite a long walk from Pedro Gil station of LRT Line 1 but jeepneys pass through around the cemetery.

When in Siem Reap, should you check the Tonle Sap Lake?

2013-09-09T01:01:00.002+08:00

Siem Reap, Cambodia is more popularly known for the Angkor Wat temples. But after a day or two inside the Angkor Wat complex, temple fatigue kicks in.

"Temples again!" I heard myself saying upon getting back to the tuktuk to move on to the nth temple.
(When you're traveling alone, you can't help but talk to yourself, sometimes.)

Since I started checking out the Angkor Wat temples as early as 5am to catch the sunrise, by noontime, I was already finished visiting the 'essentials' -- that is, the Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm -- as well as the other temples and sites that are not really frequented by tourists but are also worth seeing.

"What else do you want to see?" my tuktuk driver asked me after eating lunch at one of the eateries inside the Angkor Wat complex.

I didn't know what to answer, so he offered to take me to the jump off point to the floating village at no extra charge even if it's about 30 minutes from Angkor Wat.

Price of whole day tour of the Angkor Wat temples with the tuktuk driver was $15 at the time.

The floating village is right at the Tonle Sap lake, or "the Great Lake" according to Cambodians, is aptly called for being the largest in Southeast Asia. It is home to more than one million Cambodians and Vietnamese, and if I got it right what my boatman told me, there are Muslims, Buddhists and Hindi living in this massive body of water.

I was asked to pay $30 for the boat ride, which would last up to about two hours. By any standard, $30 is ridiculous! But I was alone and have no one to split the cost with. And I thought it is not every day that I get to go to Cambodia, so I bit the bullet.

The pluses
What is amazing to see in this part of Cambodia is that everything floats -- there was a floating basketball, a floating pig pen, a floating crocodile "farm," a floating school, and of course the floating dwellings of the residents, most of which are fisher folk. Too bad I missed the floating market, as I was at an awkward time when I went there, when most people are probably taking their afternoon naps or simply avoiding the harsh rays of the sun.

THE FLOATING PIG pen at Tonle Sap Lake.

THE FLOATING CROCODILE "farm."

BETTER PREPARE A dollar or two for this snake-charmer kid!

My boatman happened to be a jolly person, so it was a nice chat with him even if he was struggling with his English. After hearing his sad life story, I tipped him $5.

THERE'S MY BOATMAN who kept calling me "Gerards" with the "S."

The minuses
Because it's a lake, of course, the first consideration is the quality of water. Coming from a developing country myself, muddy and unclear water is not at all new to me (I work in Manila and it is almost everyday that I get to see Pasig River, which is the epitome of how bad waterways succumbed to water pollution). And because more than one million people live here, you may want to guess where their drainage and toilets are.

Among the highlights of this tour include the floating museum, the floating crocodile farm and the floating souvenir store. I don't really find these entertaining at all, with the crocodile "farm" far from what a breeding place for crocodiles is supposed to be. And if you're looking for souvenirs, better hit the market in Siem Reap where prices are lower and the choices much more varied.

DWELLINGS AT THE Tonle Sap Lake.

The verdict
Should you go and check out the Tonle Sap Lake while in Siem Reap? As for me, it was quite an experience and I don't have any regrets going there. I just felt that a $30 charge was too much for a boat ride.

Tip sheet:

- If ever you're thinking of going to the floating village, make it clear with your tuktuk driver first if he's charging you extra for the trip to the jump off point.
- The $30 is supposedly the charge for the entire boat ride. It would have been cheaper for me if I had companions. If you're traveling alone, better wait for hoards of tourists that you can join in so that you have a whole lot of them to split the cost with.
- Come earlier.
- Before jumping on the boat, clarify first with the boatman or the one supervising the boat trips the fees that you have to pay. Some boat men, I was told, obliges their passengers to tip them $3. Fees for guides are separate, so MAKE IT A POINT TO CLARIFY.
- Beware of touts.
- A bit wary after reading this post? Try riding a boat from Battambang going to Tonle Sap. Other travelers say that is the most scenic boat ride in the whole of Cambodia.

THIS IS HOW the people of Tonle Sap Lake define "marketing."

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Top 11 places in Prague to visit for FREE!

2013-08-29T22:23:00.003+08:00

Prague can easily compete as the most beautiful city in Europe, especially for those who have gone past the charm of Paris. For its Baroque, Gothic and art nouveau architecture, much more the colorful culture and history drawn from its former Bohemian glory, I should say a trip to Europe isn’t complete without a visit to the Czech capital.

Post card from the Philippines: The Taal Basilica

2013-08-05T00:11:00.001+08:00

Almost every town and municipality in the Philippines is marked by a large Baroque church often made of adobe. It is not surprising, though, as the Philippines was under the Spanish colonial rule for over 300 years, thus the largest population of Catholic faithfuls in Asia.
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Post card from Czech Republic: Sto. Nino de Praha

2013-07-28T23:57:00.000+08:00

Religious places and icons never fail to fascinate me whenever I travel. It's probably the Roman Catholic tradition in my own country that makes me appreciate Christian icons, considering that these are much more elaborate in Europe.

When in Thailand, go to the floating market

2013-07-17T21:41:00.000+08:00

When I embarked on a backpacking trip in Southeast Asia in 2008, I already knew that I have to go to Thailand and while there, I told myself that I have to see the floating market. The experience wasn't really spectacular but I should say it is a must-see, that I had to scold my folks for missing it when they went to Thailand two years after!

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In search of coffee made from Civets' poop

2013-06-10T13:58:00.000+08:00

“Did you just drink feces?!” This was the message that flooded my phone just seconds after my story on Civet cat dung coffee aired on national TV. The curiosity was understandable, though. It’s that kind of a feature story that one would expect in a newscast: pictures of lush green forest where the Civets breed, farmers in act of picking up Civet poop, and actual processing of coffee beans. And of course, the video that piqued the curiosity of coffee-savvy Filipinos: myself downing a cup of what is said to be the most expensive coffee in the world, with the corresponding spiels that described what I have just had: “smooth, no bitterness but fruity after taste, delicious!”

10 things to do in Barcelona on a shoestring budget!

2013-03-05T23:28:00.000+08:00

Gaudi's sculptures at the rooftop of Casa Mila or La Pedrera. Barcelona, Spain.

I’ve decided to go to Spain because I thought this is the nearest gateway to Morocco. I’ve jokingly told my friends that when I get to Spain, I’m going to lash insults on our colonizers! But when I landed at Girona airport after an hour’s plane ride from Rome, I deplaned with nary a foul word from my mouth, but only with the song “A Whole New World” playing in my head!

But really, Barcelona is a beautiful, cosmopolitan city that has changed from being a Roman territory hundreds of years ago to a modern city that it is now, post-1992 Olympics. It is not exactly my favorite European city as I’ve discovered that I’m not a fan of big cities. But for its artsy and lively vibe, it’s a place worth coming back to, given the funds.