The Ancient Art of Bonsai

Shaping the Bonsai

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Before deciding on the shape of your bonsai, study the tree carefully and take into account the natural form of the species. To achieve an impression of age and reality, observe the way mature trees of the same kind grow in their natural setting. Decide on the final shape and size of your bonsai before beginning. Make a rough sketch of what you wish to create, and use it as a guide.

Bonsai are shaped by pruning, wiring and pinching. Pruning and wiring create the tree’s structure by shaping its woody parts, whereas pinching back the long ends of soft foliage helps side buds to develop, making a branch bushier or twiggier (this is called “ramification”). Pruning is less stressful for the tree than wiring, but both are usually necessary to achieve refinement. Pruning should be done with a concave cutter, a special bonsai tool for making sharp cuts without collars (stubs). All but maintenance pruning should be done at the same time of year as root pruning in order to maintain a supply-and-demand balance between foliage and roots.

Deciduous trees can be pruned back quite severely if an equivalent amount of root is removed at the same time. Older evergreens should be pruned back very gradually. Starting at the bottom of the trunk, remove branches that are growing straight up, those that grow inward towards the trunk, and one of two branches that grow opposite one another, after selecting the correct one to keep, usually according to an alternating (side-to-side) arrangement of branches that start near the bottom. Only after wiring should you prune to shorten remaining branches, leaving lower ones longer than upper ones.

Wiring can be done at any time of year, but it is most easily done on deciduous trees in the winter when they have no

leaves. Buy annealed aluminum or copper wire made for use on bonsai, which is much more pliable than regular wire. To make the branches flexible before wiring, do not water the plant the day before you wire it. Begin at the bottom of the tree when wiring and shaping, and work upward. Anchor the end of the wire at the base of the tree by pushing it into the soil.

Use foam pads under the wire to protect the branches. Keep turns

around the branches or trunk about one quarter inch apart, and spiral upward at a 45 degree angle. Do not wire too tightly. If a branch should snap, the ends can be rejoined if not completely broken. Wind some garden tape around the break. If a branch snaps off, prune it back at the first side branch. Wire should not be kept on the plant longer than one growing season. When removing wire, start at the end of the branch and work back carefully.

How To Prune Bonsai Trees

Bonsai trees need training throughout their lives in order to:

Maintain the small size of a naturally large tree
Give the plant an appearance of age and maturity

Pruning Tools

Pruning instruments should always be sharp and clean because blunt tools will leave a ragged stump, which could easily become a doorway for disease and pests. Heavy pruning cuts should be whittled down to a slight hollow in the trunk or branch in order to encourage the formation of a callous. Large cuts should be painted with protective paint. When pruning a branch, try to make the cut just above a bud that is pointing in the direction you want the branch to grow. If the cut slopes downwards, then the water will run off and the chances of rot will be considerably lessened.

Main branch pruning

Heavy pruning should be carried out in autumn, winter, or early spring, and is the major way of shaping a bonsai tree. The main priorities are to remove any branch that is too low at the front any branch directly opposite another any that creates a so-called cartwheel effect and any that crosses the front or back to the other side of the tree. Hollow out all stumps with a sharp knife .

General Pruning

Throughout the growing season, cut back shoots of maples zelkovas and other broad-leaves to the first or second pair of leaves. Pinch out the tips of juniper shoots . With pines, remove the center “candles” and pinch back the others.

Leaf Cutting

Do this in early summer on deciduous trees that do not flower or fruit. Use sharp scissors to remove half of each leaf on weak branches or trees, but all but the stalk on strong wood. In a few weeks the stalk will drop and new small foliage and shoots will grow.

Styles Of Bonsai Trees

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Bonsai trees and plants vary greatly in style and size. Miniature specimens, up to 6 inches tall, are usually naturally dwarf plants trained even smaller. Small bonsai stand up to 12 inches tall, and medium trees from 1 – 2 1/2 feet. Bonsai do not have to be small however, with some magnificent trees at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo growing more than six feet tall. These plants are hundreds of years old! The most important classification of style refers to the angle at which the trunk stands in the container. These range from the formal upright style, in which the trunk grows straight and vertical, to the full cascade, in which the bonsai tree is trained so that the upper growth sweeps down below the pot. The most popular bonsai styles today are the simple but relaxed forms such as the informal upright and leaning styles, together with small groups.

BONSAI STYLES

In the Japanese bonsai tradition, each bonsai must conform to a clearly defined style. There are more than 100 recognized styles in bonsai, but most experts consider five basic styles to be essential — formal upright, informal upright, slanting, cascade and semi-cascade. This guide will help you become

familiar with the essential bonsai styles and their Japanese names.

Formal Upright (Chokkan) - A bonsai tree trained in the formal upright style mimics the growth of a tree under perfect natural conditions. The most important requirement for this style is that the trunk must be perfectly straight, tapering naturally and evenly from bottom to top. The best species for training in the formal upright style are larches, junipers, pines and spruces because of their naturally tapered shape.

At the outdoor sales area of the Ueno Green Club bonsai (Japan), prebonsai, containers, tools, soil and seeds can be found for sale. Note many of the large size bonsai on the roof are sold as bare-root specimens.

Informal Upright (Moyogi) - In nature, trees bend or change their growth direction in response to their environment. They might grow away from the wind or other trees, or grow toward sunlight. The informal upright bonsai style represents this natural curve of a tree trunk in an imperfect environment. In the informal upright style, the top of the tree, its apex, is usually positioned directly over its base, so the overall effect is that of an upright tree. Most species of sturdy plants are suitable for training in this style, but the most popular are maples.

Slanting (Shakkan) - Trees slant naturally as a result of exposure to buffeting winds or deep shade when they are young. A bonsai tree trained in this style displays a trunk that leans to the left or right to imply a difficult childhood. Some bonsai trees that have been trained to slant look as if they will fall over because of the angle at which they lean. No need to worry, though – these trees have strong roots growing under the soil that support the tree’s weight. The slanting bonsai style is similar to the

informal upright, but in this style the tree’s apex is not directly over its base.

Cascade (Kengai) - The cascade style of bonsai calls to mind a weather-beaten old tree clinging to a cliff face. In this style, the tree’s growing tip extends below the base of its container. A cascade bonsai appears to be struggling against gravity or seeking out scant sunlight. The semicascade (han-kengai) bonsai style is similar to the cascade style. In this form, the tree grows over the rim of the

Juniper bonsai being airlayered

container but does not drop below the container’s base. Many species of plants will adapt to cascade training, as long as they are not strongly upright naturally. Juniper is a favorite for training in the cascade and semi-cascade styles.

Broom (Hokidachi) - A broom-style bonsai looks like a conventional handmade broom, turned upside down. Branches fan out from the top of a single straight trunk. This style imitates one of the common natural shapes of trees. Because the broom shape is so common in nature, broom-style bonsai trees are often considered to be the most realistic-looking. The

broom style, though, is considered an advanced technique and is difficult to achieve. Deciduous trees are the best candidates for training in this style, especially those with fine branches and leaves. The elm is the most popular species of tree used for growing and training in the broom style.

Windswept

(Fukinagashi) - The

windswept bonsai has all of its living branches facing the same direction, a training method creating the illusion of a tree that grew up in a very windy place. When done well, windswept bonsai trees can look as if they are still being lashed by the wind. The windswept effect can be applied to basic bonsai styles of trees, including formal or informal upright, slanting or semi-cascade trees. You may see a bonsai that fits into more than one styling category because of a combination of techniques The windswept style is most effectively applied to conifer species of trees. The effect is more difficult to achieve convincingly with deciduous trees because their leaves face in all directions.

Ficus eugenoides

Forest (Yose-ue) - Forest-style bonsai plantings consist of several trees of the same species growing in a single pot. In the Japanese tradition, trees are always planted in odd-numbered groups that are said to echo the randomness of nature. Although a bonsai forest is viewed from outside, the style is meant to give the viewer the sensation of actually being within a forest.

Juniperus phoeniacea thurbinatta

The Ancient art of Bonsai: Trimming & Pruning and Pests & Diseases

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The main objective of trimming and pruning is to shape the bonsai into the desired form and to reduce growth above ground in order to maintain a balance with root growth. The process of shaping begins when the tree is very young and is on-going as it continues its growth. Trimming is accomplished by using a sharp scissors or shears. This traditional tool is called butterfly shears or bonsai shears and is used for removing foliage and light branches. When heavier branches are removed, we call it pruning and the tool to use is the concave cutter, for which there is no substitute. The concave cutter allows you to remove small, medium and even large branches without leaving any visible scars. Some trees such as the Juniper should be trimmed by using the thumb and index finger to remove new growth and to prevent browning

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Bonsai from forest trees must live outdoors except for short periods of time when they may be brought inside for viewing.

and a “sheared” appearance.

Pests & Diseases

Many, if not most, insects are not harmful to your bonsai. Some are beneficial in that they prey on insects that will do damage to your trees. If you find that harmful insects have taken up residence on your bonsai, you need to take action. Many of these can be washed or picked off. Many are small and difficult to see. Red spider mites are frequently a problem with junipers, and can be discerned by holding a white piece of paper below a branch and tapping on the branch. If you see what looks like moving red paprika, you have a spider mite problem. Treat with an appropriate insecticide. Be sure to read all labels and application instructions for any pesticide. To do otherwise is a violation of federal law. As living trees, bonsai are susceptible to insect attacks and disease. Preventive and corrective measures include: • Keeping your

bonsai in good health, since insects and bacteria tend to attack weak trees

Giving your tree ample light, fresh air and ventilation
Keeping the soil free of spent blooms and fallen leavesetc. You may also use an insecticidal soap spray which is not harmful to humans or animals. This soap derivative, however, may require more than one application to control the insect population. It’s also a good idea to use this spray weekly to prevent any attacks.

Just remember that bonsai from forest trees must live outdoors except for short periods of time when they may be brought inside for viewing. These indoor periods should only be for two or three hours and should not occur at all in summer unless the interior is well ventilated. In the summer, bonsai need

Tropical and subtropical trees can be grown as indoor bonsai. A few hobbyists grow these indoors all year long with supplemental lighting.

cool nights, sunny days, and mist or rain almost daily. If your climate does not offer these conditions naturally, you must supply them. Avoid any extremes in temperature, light, rain, and wind. Water the entire plant daily, but do not let them become water logged. Placing bonsai on a slatted stand in the garden is a good way to keep drainage conditions optimum.

Learn the conditions (culture) that your bonsai requires. Junipers and pines need full sun all day. Maples, elms and boxwoods need morning sun and afternoon shade, etc. Apply fertilizer only before and during active growth. A houseplant fertilizer diluted from one quarter to one half strength will suffice. In the fall, bonsai must be prepared for the winter. Slow the growth of the plants by watering less frequently and discontinuing fertilizer application. Do not prune or cut any branches after mid-August.

Winter’s low temperatures and drying winds can easily kill bonsai. If the winter temperature drops below 28º F, bonsai must be protected by a greenhouse, pit, or coldframe. However, do not overprotect the plants; they must be kept cool to stay dormant. Don’t forget to water them while inside the coldframe. Winter watering may be necessary only once a week. More bonsai are killed by over-watering than by desiccation.

A dormant period is necessary for all temperate trees, and trees that are not given this period of rest will die. This does not apply to tropical or sub-tropical varieties, which are described on the next page. The type of winter protection needed by your trees depends on the type of tree that you have and the severity of winter in your area. If you live in an area where the coldest night temperatures in the winter are no

colder than about mid twenties Fahrenheit – typically the deep south - your trees will not need any special protection, and can remain on their benches all winter. But for most regions of the United States your trees will require winter protection of some sort. This can be accomplished by placing your tree in an unheated garage; an unheated shed; a cold frame; a window well on the north facing side of your house; a root cellar; by healing them into a flower bed; by carefully burying them in light snow. Wherever you store your bonsai, they should not be subjected to repeated cycles of freeze-thaw. A sun porch that gets warm during the day and freezing at night would not be a favorable location.

Also check periodically during the winter months to see if the tree needs to be watered. Other bonsai growers in your area are a good source of information regarding winter care.

In the spring, start new bonsai, prune the old ones, and continue training measures. The remaining part of the growing season is used for the plants’ adjustments to these practices.

The rule-of-thumb is, if the soil is still wet – don’t water.

Indoor Bonsai

Tropical and sub-tropical trees can be grown as indoor bonsai. A few hobbyists grow these indoors all year long with supplemental lighting. But even these trees will do best if they are grown outdoors during the normal growing season. When night temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, these trees need to be brought indoors. Tropical environments receive about 12 hours of daylight all year long. Indoors, give your bonsai as much light as possible, perhaps supplemented with grow lights set on a timer to mimic natural conditions.

Most of our homes have a low relative humidity during the winter. Misting the foliage, or grouping your plants together, or placing pans of gravel and water under, or near, your bonsai will help raise the humidity. Remember, however, your bonsai pot must never be sitting in water deeper than the feet on the pot.

The water level must never be above the bottom of the pot.

The most popular bonsai styles today are the simple but relaxed forms.