The Ancient Art of Bonsai

Citrus bonsai are cultivated for their spectacular fragrant blooms and colorful ornamental fruits.

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Citrus bonsai (lemon, orange, tangerine, kumquat and other varieties) are evergreen plants belonging to the Rutaceae family, cultivated not only for their elegant bearing and shiny leaves, but also for their spectacular fragrant blossoming and colourful ornamental fruits. Citrus trees have a special charm and offer a unique gratification: it is possible to have flowers and fruit on the same specimen at the same time, even in a pot. Growth is fairly vigorous, but with careful management it is possible to obtain compact, well-branched plants. Their Mediterranean beauty makes them very popular, but they require mild climatic conditions, plenty of light and good moisture control.

Location
Citrus bonsai require a very bright, sunny location to thrive. Light is essential for both flowering and fruit production. In Mediterranean climates, they can be grown outdoors all year round, but in areas with cold winters (below 5°C), they should be sheltered in a cold greenhouse, as they cannot tolerate frost. During the summer, it can remain in full sun, but in very hot periods, it can benefit from light shading during the middle of the day to prevent dehydration.
Watering
The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for Citrus, bearing in mind, however, that in hotter periods and in strong winds, it is necessary to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and an excess of water can cause serious imbalances in the plant.
Repotting
Repotting should be done every 2-3 years, in spring, before flowering or immediately after. Citrus trees have a dense but rather delicate root system, so it is advisable to proceed with care, removing only a third of the root ball. It is essential to use a well-draining substrate; we recommend using 100% akadama (medium-coarse grain size). After repotting, the plant should be placed in a semi-shaded position for a few days, avoiding stress from sun or wind. Citrus trees do not like too frequent or drastic repotting, so it is best to do so only when necessary.
Pruning
It is important to avoid drastic pruning of branches that have already borne fruit or are bearing buds, so as not to lose production. Citrus trees do not regrow well from old wood, so always leave a few active leaves on the branches. Larger cuts should always be protected with healing mastic. After pruning, it is normal for the plant to temporarily slow down its development.
Pinching
Pinching citrus bonsai serves to contain growth and encourage lateral branching. During the growing season (spring-summer), when new shoots have produced 5-6 leaves, you can cut them back, leaving 2-3 leaves. Citrus trees tend to grow in a disorderly and somewhat vigorous manner, so it is important to prune them regularly. Pinching not only helps to maintain a compact canopy, but also stimulates the formation of new flowers and fruit. However, it is advisable not to pinch excessively during flowering, so as not to compromise fruiting.
Wiring
Citrus bonsai can be wired, but with great care, as the branches are often fragile and inflexible, especially the older ones. The best time for wiring is in spring or early summer, when the branches are still young and flexible. To avoid damage, many bonsai artists prefer to shape Citrus with directional pruning rather than forced bending.
Fertilization
At the end of flowering, after pruning, apply Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer combined with Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer three times at intervals of 8-10 days. This fertilization can be replaced by applying Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer plus Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer twice every 15-20 days. During other periods, use Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer every 15 days until October, or Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer every 15-25 days, excluding July and August. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter), apply Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer. 3-4 times a year, it is also advisable to use Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.
Care
It is particularly susceptible to scale insects and red spider mites. It is essential to ensure good ventilation, adequate light, correct watering, and clean foliage. Yellow leaves may indicate iron deficiency or excess limestone in the soil. Flower or fruit drop may be due to water or heat stress, or sudden changes in temperature. Proper seasonal management, combined with light pruning and targeted fertilization, will keep your Citrus strong, productive, and healthy.

The Chamaecyparis in the bonsai is a evergreen conifer very apprezzata by the eretto holder

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Its particular shape, characterised by a columnar or conical habit with fan-shaped trunks and scaly leaves, makes it very suitable for the creation of groves. Its wrinkled bark, which gives a pleasant sense of age even in specimens that are only a few years old, is also highly valued. The persistent squamiform-ovate dark green leaves are edged with blue on the underside. It produces a pine cone consisting of 4-12 woody scales, grows abundantly and develops a fine, compact foliage with pinching.

Location

Chamaecyparis loves plenty of light. Although it also grows in shade, if well exposed to light, it is vigorous and responds better to training techniques. In the summer months, however, it is best not to expose it to the most intense rays, otherwise the leaves may get burned. The foliage, especially when temperatures are low, must be protected from the dehydrating action of the wind.

Watering

The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for Chamaecyparis, but bear in mind that in hot weather and when there is strong wind, you will need to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and an excess of water can cause serious damage to the plant.

Repotting

ransplanting is carried out once every two to three years between mid-March and the first ten days of April. Chamaecyparis has a fairly dense but not aggressive root system, so it is important not to prune the roots too drastically: it is advisable to remove no more than a third of the roots. Ideal composition: 70% Akadama, 20% ready-to-use soil, 10% pozzolana.

Pruning

During the formation of the basic structure, it is important to let the tree grow freely and then prune it in order to maintain its vigor and obtain a significant response to the application of techniques. Thinning the branches is also very important in the cultivation of Chamaecyparis. After pinching, which slows down the development of strong areas, between summer and fall, it is necessary to prune the branches to tidy up overly dense and disordered layers. It is sufficient to do this once every two years. Over time, vigorous branches become thicker and take on excessive visual heaviness, so they should be pruned with shears until you can see through the branches. Neglecting periodic thinning pruning means gradually losing the inner parts of the branches due to lack of light and air. It is therefore advisable to carry out rather aggressive thinning pruning with shears every two or three years.

Pinching

Once the basic structure of the tree has been formed, pinching is essential to give volume to the branches. If the purchased material has already reached a good level of formation, you can start pinching the shoots. New shoots of Chamaecyparis sprout continuously. The procedure to follow is simple: pinch out the shoots that have grown vigorously, pulling them out from the base, while leaving the weaker shoots intact. This allows the thin and weak branches to be strengthened, while curbing the vigorous ones that tend to make the shape disordered and unbalanced.

Wiring

The best times for wrapping are February-March and from October to the first ten days of November. It is advisable to prune the branches in October and only then apply the wire for shaping.

Fertilization

rom April to early July, apply Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer together with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer every 15 days, or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer plus Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer once a month. From the end of August to October, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter), apply Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer; 3-4 times a year, it is also advisable to use Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Care

hamaecyparis bonsai is sensitive to dry air and heatstroke, which can cause dehydration of the tips and loss of foliage color. It is important to ensure good air circulation and avoid water stagnation. Periodic cleaning of dry or internal branches improves air circulation and prevents mold and rot. It can be susceptible to red spider mites and root rot.

Ficus retusa is the quintessential indoor evergreen bonsai.

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Ficus retusa is the quintessential indoor evergreen bonsai. Native to tropical Asian forests, it's ideal for all enthusiasts because it's easy to grow and adapts to almost any environmental condition. It stands out from other Ficus species for its ability to develop majestic aerial roots.

Location

If placed outdoors it shows better growth, but this is only possible from May to September, since when the temperature drops below 10° C it is necessary to bring it indoors to a very bright position, less than 1 metre from the window not screened by curtains.

Watering

The common rule of watering that indicates to wet whenever the soil is dry to the touch, is also ideal in the case of Ficus retusa, considering that in the warmer periods, it is necessary to intervene more frequently. Often, in this case, the soil is likely to remain completely dry. It is also good to keep in mind that both the lack and the excess of water can create serious imbalances to the plant. However, it likes the moisture on the frond, so it is advisable to vaporize the leaves.

Repotting

The most suitable time is April-May. Since the roots grow rapidly and recover early from the wounds, it is possible to prune the strain without fear, leaving only a third. Given the speed of growth, it is operated every two years on young specimens, every three on adult specimens. Special attention deserves the aerial roots: care must be taken not to break them, cleaning the lower and upper part of the strain. The ideal compound consists of akadama (80%) and soil (20%).

Pruning

In principle, especially in the case of cutting large branches, the Ficus do not tolerate drastic pruning. This does not mean that if it were applied, the plant would be lost, but the scar resulting from the pruning of a branch larger than 1/3 compared to the thickness of the trunk, in most cases heals with difficulty.

The cause of this poor wound closing capacity is to be found in the wood type of Ficus. When it comes instead to medium or thin branches (less than 1/3 of the trunk diameter), all Ficus respond by emitting new and abundant buds near the cutting area. The vigor of the species and the stapling will require the periodic thinning of the secondary and tertiary branches. If the Ficus grows healthy, twice a year the branches that develop downwards, inwards of the trunk and cross with others, are eliminated. Shortening the length of a branch means replacing the apex with a back shoot.

Stapling

Ficus stapling is practiced throughout the year because, if kept inside during the winter, the growth is continuous. Being very vigorous, they need a frequent stapling to control its strong apical dominance: you let the shoots grow up to 5 or 6 leaves and then cut 2-3 leaves, according to the vigor of each area. Stapling with the fingers, that is, through the removal of the last two leaves can only be applied to adult specimens; in young specimens it curbs too much growth, thus slowing down the branching process.

Wrapping

Winding is only one of the many techniques applicable to Ficus to give shape to trunk and branches, but it is undoubtedly the most dangerous. Ficus are flexible, so modeling them is not a difficult task, but you have to pay attention to the rapid growth of this plant. If you do not pay enough attention, the thread can affect the cortex quickly. For this reason it is better to avoid the use of thin wire and in any case the practice of winding will have to be adopted only if you can not use the shaping with the rods.

Fertilization

To the vegetative recovery (March-April) fertilize every 8-10 days combining the Bonsan Fertise with Stimulant Action with the Organic Liquid Fertilizer Bonsan. From April to September fertilize every 8-10 days with Organic Liquid Fertilizer Bonsan or every 15-20 days with Bonsan Organic Solid Concime Aburukasu, avoiding the months of July and August. From September to February use the Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer every 15-20 days. To stimulate rooting, use Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B Bonsan vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Care

Ficus can be assaulted by caterpillars and occasionally by thrips. More rare, but possible, is the red spider attachment. Much more frequent are the attacks of fungi, which occur when you hold the plant in a warm position, with little light, poor ventilation and high humidity. On the leaves appear bright blackish spots, molds sometimes covered by a white dust or yellowish blisters. It is therefore necessary to place the plant in a more aerated position, applying a fungicide.