<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:blogger='http://schemas.google.com/blogger/2008' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005" xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306</id><updated>2026-07-22T10:42:08.922-07:00</updated><category term="Seasonal care and protection"/><category term="Species"/><category term="Styles"/><category term="Advanced Tecniques"/><category term="Guidelines"/><category term="Introduction"/><category term="Pots"/><category term="Repotting"/><category term="Bonsai Artist&#39;s"/><category term="Articles"/><category term="Fertilizer"/><category term="Bonsai Masters"/><category term="Tools and Supplies"/><category term="Types of Bonsai Trees"/><category term="Fertilization"/><category term="Gallery"/><category term="Exhibitions and Conventions"/><category term="Exposure"/><category term="Indoor Bonsai"/><category term="Potting"/><category term="History"/><category term="Pruning"/><category term="Botanic Garden&#39;s"/><category term="Watering"/><category term="Glossary"/><category term="Groups"/><category term="Miscellanous"/><category term="Garden"/><category term="Picking"/><category term="Winding"/><category term="Junipers"/><category term="Soil"/><category term="Infographics"/><category term="Location and overwintering"/><category term="Museums"/><category term="News"/><category term="Rosaceae"/><category term="Privacy &amp; Terms"/><category term="Rules of Bonsai"/><category term="Books"/><category term="Philately"/><title type='text'>The Ancient Art of Bonsai</title><subtitle type='html'></subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default?max-results=3&amp;redirect=false'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><link rel='next' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default?start-index=4&amp;max-results=3&amp;redirect=false'/><author><name>Fausto Baccino</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='32' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EorzEP6UBc-6cufMyMYmKjmySObHaz8LxRgWPgRXPa3H_l1hKD2OPFMRUwDJktKfyHsnXm18EwMT8O7CqhIio9GjiOfHb_qUZanVuBcrRIOmbFHNvuTjZ9Q2GV_Oww/s220/ulmus-minor.jpg'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>266</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>3</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-7299990833615813902</id><published>2026-07-19T12:53:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2026-07-19T12:53:00.204-07:00</updated><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Pots"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Potting"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Pruning"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Repotting"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Species"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Watering"/><title type='text'>The Camellia bonsai is a very special one, preferring semi-ombreggiata external positions</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img style=&quot;margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; float: none; display: block;&quot; src=&quot;https://www.bonsaiurbano.com/wp-content/uploads/camelia.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;p&gt;It is evident that the bonsai interest in this species is mainly related to its spectacular flowering. However, the other very important characteristics that Camellia possesses and that are appreciable in a bonsai should also be considered: the small leaf, the dense foliage and the short internodes. The reduced form also allows the character and peculiarities of each species to be appreciated more than in the wild. Among the most popular varieties is undoubtedly Camellia sasanqua, which is also the smallest and most compact. The styles it is best suited to are: formal upright, sloping, cascading, two-trunked and common stock, in medium and large sizes.    &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Location&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Camellias do not tolerate harsh climates, so in winter they need to be protected from the cold by placing them in a sheltered spot, while ensuring they remain in a cool, bright location with temperatures between 2°C and 12°C. From March to September, they can be placed outdoors in a well-ventilated spot, but sheltered from direct sunlight, especially between June and August.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Watering&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for Camellia, but bear in mind that during hotter periods and in strong winds, you will need to water more frequently. As it is an evergreen species, it is essential to water it frequently even in winter, but avoid excessive moisture, which causes the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When the buds are about to form, watering should be moderate. In summer, water abundantly, maintaining average humidity.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Repotting&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt; As this is a plant with good growth vigor, it is advisable to repot it fairly frequently, at least every 2-3 years. The ideal period is from mid-April to early June, when the base of the new shoots is mature and well established, i.e., when the shoot is still about half green, but the base has already taken on the typical color of wood. At this time, the white roots are developing vigorously, so transplanting can be done without any problems. When repotting, the young shoots should be shortened to 1-2 nodes, provided that there are new buds at the base. The ideal mixture consists of: 70% kanuma, 20% ready-made soil, and 10% sand.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Pruning&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;The formation of Camellia, which grows vigorously, is achieved mainly through pruning. It is important to prune unnecessary branches that grow in inappropriate positions from after flowering until the end of June. The procedure consists of removing wilted flowers, including calyxes, at the end of flowering, shortening the branches to 1-2 nodes. It is worth bearing in mind that, as this is a species that flowers easily, in order to improve its appearance, it is advisable to thin out the flower buds to give them a more uniform distribution. Flower buds are slightly larger and rounder than leaf buds.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Pinching&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Pinching is an effective training technique, but in the case of young plants, it is best to allow the shoots to grow for a certain period of time in order to obtain enlargement before applying it. On mature specimens, however, pinching, which is practiced from April to mid-July, is an indispensable method for training the structure of the branches. The best way to do this is to let the green shoots grow to a length of 5-10 cm, then shorten them to 1-2 leaves using your fingers or tweezers. If you do this when the tip is still thick and compact, you will obtain branches with short internodes. Flower buds will subsequently form on the nodes left behind.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Wiring&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;It is mainly applied to long branches, which should be wrapped and bent downwards. Bear in mind that the bark of the Camellia is very soft and even when using copper-coated aluminum wire instead of copper wire, there is a risk of marking it, so it is advisable to always cover the wire, for example, with adhesive tape. Due to its rapid growth, the wire cannot be left on the tree for too long: it is advisable to check the wrapping frequently, removing the wire as soon as it starts to cut into the bark.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Fertilization&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt; At the end of flowering, after pruning, apply Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer combined with Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer 3 times every 8-10 days. During other periods, use Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer every 15-25 days, excluding July and August. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter), apply Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer; 6-8 times a year, it is also advisable to use Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Liquid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Care&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt; As a bonsai, it has several points of interest, in particular its small size and thick canopy of small leaves, as well as its lush flowering.     &lt;/p&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/7299990833615813902/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2026/07/the-camellia-bonsai-is-very-special-one.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default/7299990833615813902'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default/7299990833615813902'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2026/07/the-camellia-bonsai-is-very-special-one.html' title='The Camellia bonsai is a very special one, preferring semi-ombreggiata external positions'/><author><name>Fausto Baccino</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='32' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EorzEP6UBc-6cufMyMYmKjmySObHaz8LxRgWPgRXPa3H_l1hKD2OPFMRUwDJktKfyHsnXm18EwMT8O7CqhIio9GjiOfHb_qUZanVuBcrRIOmbFHNvuTjZ9Q2GV_Oww/s220/ulmus-minor.jpg'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-648091884677831453</id><published>2026-07-12T15:21:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2026-07-12T15:21:00.121-07:00</updated><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Exposure"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fertilization"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Potting"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Repotting"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Species"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Watering"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Winding"/><title type='text'>Callicarpa is excellent for bonsai because of its striking purple berries and aged bark.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.vivaioranieri.it/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/bonsai_callicarpa_slide.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;p&gt;The Callicarpa, commonly called beautyberry, is an ornamental plant prized especially for its characteristic bright purple berries that appear in autumn and last until winter. Cultivated as a bonsai, it combines the elegance of the dense branching with the distinctiveness of the berries, creating a remarkable aesthetic effect during the cold season. It is a deciduous outdoor bonsai and its vigorous growth makes it suitable for both beginners and experts, offering satisfaction both in shaping and in flowering and fruiting.&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Location&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Callicarpa bonsai prefers full sun exposure to ensure healthy growth and good flower and berry production. During spring and fall, it can safely be kept in full light, while in summer it is best to protect it during the hottest hours, especially in regions with very dry climates. In winter, it tolerates moderate cold, but temperatures below 43°F can damage the roots and younger branches, so it is advisable to place it in a cold greenhouse or sheltered area when frosts become persistent.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Watering&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt; he common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for Callicarpa, bearing in mind, however, that in hotter periods and in strong winds, it is necessary to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and excess water can cause serious problems for the plant. More specifically, a lack of water causes the leaves to wilt and stunted growth, while excess water causes the tips of the leaves to turn black.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Repotting&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Repotting should be done every two or three years, preferably in early spring, before the growing season begins. This allows the substrate to be renewed and root growth to be controlled. It is important to use well-drained soil. During repotting, up to a third of the roots can be pruned, taking care not to damage the main roots. After repotting, it is advisable to protect the plant from direct sunlight for a few days to allow it to recover.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Pruning&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;Pruning Callicarpa bonsai is an important practice for shaping the tree&#39;s structure and keeping it compact and harmonious. The main pruning is done in late winter or early spring, when the plant is still dormant but has already passed the greatest risk of frost. At this stage, you can shorten branches that are too long, remove dry, damaged, or poorly positioned branches, and establish the general shape of the crown. During the growing season, you can do light maintenance pruning, but it is best to avoid too drastic cuts so as not to compromise flowering and subsequent berry production. Always use sharp, disinfected tools to reduce the risk of infection.    &lt;br /&gt;Pinching     &lt;br /&gt;Pinching is essential for maintaining the compact shape of the bonsai and stimulating fine, dense branching. New shoots should be cut when they have produced 5 or 6 leaves, leaving 2 or 3. This process helps to distribute sap more evenly and control excessive branch growth. It is important not to pinch too late in the season, so as not to weaken the plant in preparation for winter. When pinching, you can also remove messy or crossed branches to promote a more harmonious structure.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Wiring&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Callicarpa can be shaped by wiring, but with a certain delicacy. Young branches are flexible and bend easily, but the bark is thin and can mark quickly. It is advisable to wrap the branches in spring or fall, avoiding periods of frost or strong summer growth. The wire should be checked every 3-4 weeks to prevent it from leaving permanent marks.     &lt;br /&gt;Fertilization     &lt;br /&gt;During the growing season, Callicarpa bonsai needs constant nourishment to support leaf development and subsequent flowering. A balanced organic or liquid fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) is recommended every two weeks from April to September. In autumn, you can switch to a low-nitrogen fertilizer (richer in phosphorus and potassium) to promote branch lignification and the production of characteristic berries. During winter, when the plant is dormant, it is best to suspend fertilization, as in summer.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Care&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Callicarpa bonsai is a relatively hardy plant, but like all potted plants, it requires constant attention. It is important to monitor for pests such as aphids and scale insects, especially in spring and summer. You can treat them with soft soap or vegetable oils, avoiding overly aggressive products. Good ventilation, adequate exposure, and cleaning of dry leaves help prevent fungal diseases.&lt;/p&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/648091884677831453/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2026/07/callicarpa-is-excellent-for-bonsai.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default/648091884677831453'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default/648091884677831453'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2026/07/callicarpa-is-excellent-for-bonsai.html' title='Callicarpa is excellent for bonsai because of its striking purple berries and aged bark.'/><author><name>Fausto Baccino</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='32' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EorzEP6UBc-6cufMyMYmKjmySObHaz8LxRgWPgRXPa3H_l1hKD2OPFMRUwDJktKfyHsnXm18EwMT8O7CqhIio9GjiOfHb_qUZanVuBcrRIOmbFHNvuTjZ9Q2GV_Oww/s220/ulmus-minor.jpg'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-5201039757506693587</id><published>2026-07-05T12:31:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2026-07-05T12:31:00.113-07:00</updated><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Exposure"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fertilization"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Picking"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Potting"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Pruning"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Repotting"/><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Species"/><title type='text'>Boxwood (Buxus) is ideal for bonsai thanks to its robustness and ability to bud even from old wood.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.nybg.org/blogs/plant-talk/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/boxwood.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;p&gt;Native to the Far East, this ornamental shrub with extensive evergreen branching is particularly appreciated for its beautiful bark, whose color and pattern give the plant an interesting sense of antiquity. Boxwood, which is called “Golden Yellow” because of the striking golden color of its leaves in winter, is also much loved for its delicately scented flowers, which should not be left on the plant for too long. It is particularly suitable for informal upright and woodland styling.&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Location&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;When placed indoors, it should be positioned very close to a window, but as far away as possible from sources of heat. From May to September, it is best to place it outdoors in partial shade.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Watering&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for boxwood, bearing in mind, however, that during the hottest periods, it is necessary to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and excess water can cause serious imbalances in the plant. More specifically, a lack of water causes the leaves to wilt and stunted growth, while excess water causes the leaves to blacken at the tips.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Repotting&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;This should preferably be done in April-May. The ideal mixture is 60% akadama + 30% ready-made soil + 10% pozzolana.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Pruning&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;Branches with 5 or 6 leaves can be pruned until the end of August. Light summer pruning is carried out after flowering.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Pinching&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;It is important to pinch new shoots in August, September, and October.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Wiring&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;This operation can be carried out throughout the year, provided that the wire is left in place for only short periods. To avoid damaging the bark, the wire must be carefully covered with adhesive florist&#39;s tape and checked frequently to ensure that it does not tighten too much around the branches and/or trunk.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Fertilization&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;When growth resumes (March-April), fertilize every 8-10 days, combining Bonsan Stimulating Action Fertilizer with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer. From April to September, fertilize every 8-10 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or every 15-20 days with Bonsan Aburukasu Organic Solid Fertilizer, avoiding the months of July and August. From September to February, it is advisable to use Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer every 15-20 days. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.     &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  &lt;h4&gt;Care&lt;/h4&gt;  &lt;p&gt;   &lt;br /&gt;It may be subject to attacks by aphids and red spider mites.     &lt;/p&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/5201039757506693587/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2026/07/boxwood-buxus-is-ideal-for-bonsai.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default/5201039757506693587'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8231380388266213306/posts/default/5201039757506693587'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2026/07/boxwood-buxus-is-ideal-for-bonsai.html' title='Boxwood (Buxus) is ideal for bonsai thanks to its robustness and ability to bud even from old wood.'/><author><name>Fausto Baccino</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='32' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EorzEP6UBc-6cufMyMYmKjmySObHaz8LxRgWPgRXPa3H_l1hKD2OPFMRUwDJktKfyHsnXm18EwMT8O7CqhIio9GjiOfHb_qUZanVuBcrRIOmbFHNvuTjZ9Q2GV_Oww/s220/ulmus-minor.jpg'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>