The Ancient Art of Bonsai

Akebia quinata is ideal for growing as a bonsai due to its rapid growth and climbing nature.

2026-06-14T11:00:00.000-07:00

Native to China and Japan, Akebia quinata is a semi-evergreen climber with compound leaves consisting of five ovate-oblong leaflets. It flowers between April and May, producing small pink-purple flowers grouped in racemes: the male flowers at the base and the female flowers towards the tips. In summer, the flowers are followed by fruits: small pods containing soft pulp and countless tiny seeds.

Location

Akebia bonsai prefers a sunny or semi-shaded position, where it can receive at least a few hours of direct sunlight per day. Good exposure promotes flowering and keeps the vegetation compact. It is a species that can be grown outdoors all year round; in winter, if temperatures drop below 43°F, it is advisable to protect it in a cold greenhouse or frost shelter. In summer, in very hot climates, it is preferable to shade it during the hottest hours to avoid dehydration and leaf burns.

Watering

The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for Akebia, bearing in mind, however, that in hotter periods and in strong winds, it is necessary to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and excess water can cause serious damage to the plant. More specifically, a lack of water causes the leaves to wilt and stunted growth, while excess water causes the tips of the leaves to turn black.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every 2–3 years, in spring, before active growth begins. This operation is useful for controlling the expansion of the roots, which tend to be very vigorous, and for renewing the soil. The roots can be pruned by up to a third of their total volume, keeping the finest and healthiest ones. The substrate must be well-drained but with a good capacity to retain moisture. After repotting, it is advisable to protect the plant from direct sunlight for about a week.

Pruning

Pruning Akebia bonsai is essential to keep it in shape, as it tends to grow rapidly and extend its shoots in a disorderly manner. Structural pruning is carried out in spring, cutting back branches that are too vigorous or disorderly and maintaining the desired shape. During the growing season, light pruning can be done to contain growth and encourage branching. After flowering, in late spring or early summer, more severe pruning can be done to stimulate the production of new shoots. Regular pruning helps to keep the structure compact and improves the aesthetics of the bonsai.

Pinching

Pinching is needed to contain growth and stimulate finer branching. Akebia produces new shoots very quickly, especially in spring and summer, so it is necessary to prune often. You can prune by shortening the new shoots when they have developed 4–5 leaves, leaving 2–3 to maintain a compact shape. This operation should be repeated regularly during the active season, always using sharp scissors and making clean cuts. Constant pruning also helps to balance the distribution of sap and prevent some areas from growing too much at the expense of others.

Wiring

Akebia has flexible branches that lend themselves well to training, especially when young. Wire can be applied in spring or fall, shaping the shoots to define the structure and direction of growth. However, rapid growth requires frequent checks, as the wire can easily mark the bark in a short time. Alternatively, to avoid damage, you can use tie rods or light ties to guide the branches. Being a climbing species, Akebia naturally tends to twine, so twining can also take advantage of this characteristic to create natural and harmonious movements.

Fertilization

Being a vigorous plant, Akebia bonsai needs regular fertilization throughout the growing season. In spring, you can use a fertilizer richer in nitrogen to stimulate growth, while in early autumn it is better to opt for a fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium to promote lignification and flowering the following year. Avoid fertilizing in winter and summer, when the plant slows down its activity.

Care

Akebia bonsai are generally hardy, but can be prone to problems if neglected. The leaves can turn yellow due to overwatering or nutritional deficiencies, while aphids and mites can attack tender shoots in spring. Good air circulation, proper watering, and balanced nutrition are the basis for keeping it healthy. Flowering, with its fragrant blooms, is one of the most beautiful moments and occurs in spring, provided the plant has received enough light and care throughout the year. In autumn, some varieties may also develop decorative fruits.

The Acer palmatum is one of the most popular and appreciated species for making bonsai

2026-06-07T12:53:00.000-07:00

This Japanese ornamental plant with a long tradition is particularly appreciated for its continuous and spectacular transformations that follow the rhythm of the seasons: from the moment of the tender spring shoots to the lush splendor of the foliage during the summer, up to the magnificent red fire of its leaves in autumn.

No less interesting is when, after the fall of the leaves, it shows its elegant silhouette and the very fine and unmistakable branching. It is a robust species, generally able to withstand the cold as much as the heat. It is long-lived as a bonsai-cultivated essence, and is also easy to shape and responds well to cultivation techniques. Acer palmatum is cultivated in many varieties, including Kiyohime, Deshojo, Seigen, and is definitely a tree that can not miss in a collection.

Location

As already mentioned, it is a rather resistant plant both in terms of heat and cold. However, in order not to damage its beautiful foliage, it is good to protect it from the most intense summer sun rays, while it should not be subtracted from a total exposure to the sun in autumn, since this intensifies the coloring of the foliage. In winter, despite tolerating low temperatures, it is better to repair the root system from frosts.

Watering

The common rule of watering that indicates to wet whenever the soil is dry to the touch, is also ideal in the case of maple, considering that in the warmest periods and in the presence of strong wind, it is necessary to intervene more frequently. Often, in fact, in these cases the ground is likely to remain completely dry. It is also good to keep in mind that both the lack and the excess of water can create serious imbalances to the plant. More precisely, the lack of water causes the leaves to afflox and stunted growth; the excess causes a blackening of the leaves in the apex part.

Repotting

The transplant should be carried out in the spring when the buds swell, but before the appearance of the leaves; annually on the younger plants, every 2/3 years on the most mature. The ideal compound is 60% akadama + 30% ready ground + 10% pozzolana.

Pruning

The best period to carry out a selective pruning of the branches of the Maple is the period in which the fall of the leaves occurs in autumn (about 15/20 days), since it is possible to observe more clearly the complete structure, also there is no risk of loss of lymph since the plant is at rest. They can also be pruned to vegetative recovery but with less success. Especially the big branches should not be pruned during the growth period. Even the application of scarring paste would not be able to stop the lymph leakage. As for thinning pruning, it should be borne in mind that the gems of the Maples appear in pairs, one on each side of the branch. By selecting the buds and the proper pruning of the branches, the new sprouting will respect the direction of the chosen gemstone. Following a good pattern, based on the direction of the main branch, the secondary and tertiary branches must not cross, but form a dense and complete horizontal network. Once the frond is formed, which is obtained in about 5 years, every 4-5 years it is necessary to prune the tree vigorously to maintain its size and design.

Stabbing

It operates on the specimens already formed, in spring, to avoid the extension of new shoots. The topping will have to continue throughout the growth period. On the specimens in formation the technique of defoliation is adopted, approximately every 2 years in May / June, eliminating the leaves all or in part, but maintaining the petiole, in order to increase the finer branching.

Winding

It must be said that due to the delicate bark of the maple, the shaping is obtained above all through pruning, so the winding must be applied only in cases of absolute necessity, in the period of minor activity, to prevent it from affecting the elegant bark. The thread, due to the rapid growth rate of this species, must never remain for more than two three months.

Fertilization

From April to the beginning of July, administer the Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer every 15 days together with the Bonsan Stimulating Fertish, or, once a month, Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro plus the Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer. From the end of August to October fertilize every 15 days with Organic Liquid Fertilizer Bonsan or with Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro. Twice a year (in autumn and late winter) administer Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro; 3-4 times a year it is also appropriate to intervene with the Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B Bonsan vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Cure

The pathogens most often found on this species are aphids, red spider and powdery spray. Attacks generally occur between spring and early autumn. In the case of aphids, specific acid shall be applied every 10 days, carrying out at least 3 interventions. To prevent the formation of the red spider, it is good to keep the plant in a ventilated environment: in case of attack intervene with acaricide.

Acer buergerianum is a long-lived bonsai species, easy to shape, and responds well to cultivation techniques.

2026-05-31T13:07:00.000-07:00

Its Japanese name “Kaede”, means “toad's hand”, and indeed its characteristic trident-shaped leaves resemble the webbed feet of a toad. With its upright trunk and light brown bark, which peels as it ages, this plant is particularly striking in autumn, when its leaves turn bright orange. It is quite suitable for forest cultivation because it has narrow internodes. It is a robust species, generally able to withstand both cold and heat. It is long-lived as a bonsai species, easy to shape, and responds well to cultivation techniques.

Location

As already mentioned, this plant is quite resistant to both heat and cold. However, in order not to damage its beautiful foliage, it is best to protect it from the most intense summer sun, while it should not be removed from full sun exposure in autumn, as this intensifies the color of the foliage. In winter, although it tolerates low temperatures well, it is best to protect the root system from frost, especially when grown in very shallow pots or with exposed roots.

Watering

The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for maple trees, bearing in mind, however, that during hotter periods and in strong winds, more frequent watering is required. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and excess water can cause serious damage to the plant. More specifically, a lack of water causes the leaves to wilt and stunted growth, while excess water causes the tips of the leaves to turn black..
Repotting
Every two years for young maples, every 3-4 years for mature trees. This should be done in spring when the buds begin to swell, but before the leaves appear. The ideal mixture is 60% akadama + 30% ready-to-use soil + 10% pozzolana.

Pruning

The best time to selectively prune maple branches is during the fall when the leaves fall (about 15-20 days), as it is easier to see the complete structure of the tree and there is no risk of sap loss since the plant is dormant. Pruning can also be done when the plant starts growing again, but with less success. They should never be pruned in winter because sap flows in maple trees even when there are no leaves. Large branches in particular should not be pruned during the growing season. Even the application of healing paste would not stop the sap from flowing. As for thinning pruning, it is important to bear in mind that maple buds appear in pairs, one on each side of the branch. By selecting the buds and pruning the branches appropriately, the new shoots will follow the direction of the chosen bud. Following a good pattern, based on the direction of the main branch, the secondary and tertiary branches should not cross, but form a dense and complete horizontal network.

Pinching

Work is carried out on already formed specimens in spring to prevent the spread of new shoots. Pruning should continue throughout the growing season. For specimens still in formation, the defoliation technique is used, approximately every 2 years in May/June, removing all or part of the leaves but keeping the petiole, in order to increase finer branching.

Wiring

It should be noted that due to the delicate bark of the maple, shaping is mainly achieved through pruning, so wrapping should only be applied when absolutely necessary, during the period of least activity, to avoid damaging the elegant bark. Due to the rapid growth rate of this species, the wire should never remain in place for more than two to three months.

Fertilization

From April to early July, apply Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer together with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer every 15 days, or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer plus Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer once a month. From the end of August to October, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter), apply Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer; 3-4 times a year, it is also advisable to use Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Care

The pathogens most commonly found on this species are aphids, red spider mites, and powdery mildew. Attacks generally occur between spring and early fall. In the case of aphids, apply a specific aphicide every 10 days, carrying out at least 3 treatments. To prevent the formation of red spider mites, it is advisable to keep the plant in a well-ventilated environment: in the event of an attack, treat with an acaricide.