The Ancient Art of Bonsai

In Japan, the Azalea symbolises spring; in the same way as Maples and Pines.

2026-06-28T07:45:00.000-07:00

In Japan, the Azalea symbolises spring; in the same way as Maples and Pines, it is one of the most widely used essences for creating bonsai in its many varieties, as it possesses all the ideal characteristics: small, deciduous or perennial leaves, a pleasing, wrinkled trunk, a good nebari, rapid growth and above all, it is particularly suitable for pole forms. Thanks to the ease with which it sprouts in any part of the stem, even drastic pruning can be applied. Another aspect that makes it rather interesting for bonsai cultivation is that it can be shaped into almost any style.

Location

In areas with a mild climate, azaleas can be safely placed outdoors all year round. However, in areas subject to colder temperatures, they need to be protected, for example by placing them in a cold greenhouse, at least during periods of frost. During the summer, this species tolerates the high temperatures of the hottest days quite well, although it is always best to provide shelter from direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves take on a reddish color and lose much of their shine. Furthermore, in case of excessive sun exposure, there is a risk of dehydration and failure to assimilate fertilizer, resulting in spotting on the edges of the leaves, similar to that caused by fungi. It is important to keep in mind that Azaleas also benefit from a well-ventilated location. If you want to keep it indoors for a while to fully enjoy its spectacular flowering, you can do so, provided it is for a very limited period: a maximum of 4 days.

Watering

Azaleas do not like hard water: if this problem arises, it is best to use a descaling product such as those in the Bonsan range. As for how often to water, a distinction must be made depending on the season: during the growing season, until the end of July, watering should be very abundant, while after flowering, it should be more moderate. However, it is important never to let the soil dry out completely, even in winter (including the coldest months), as its thin fibrous roots dehydrate easily. Ensuring the right amount of water for azaleas is very important in order to avoid cultivation problems: overwatering leads to weak and long growth, with consequent leaf fall; under-watering causes stunted growth, with twisted, yellow leaves that will fall, along with the buds.

Repotting

The best time for transplanting is immediately after flowering, because if done earlier, the plant would weaken at the expense of flower production. Young specimens should be transplanted every 2 years, while for more mature ones, every 3 or 4 years will suffice. Azaleas tolerate root pruning well, and after the operation they generally produce numerous capillary roots in a short time. Before transplanting, remove the soil from the top and bottom of the stump, paying particular attention to the central area under the tree trunk, where it is easy to find rotting roots and dry, compact soil. At this point, prune one-third of the roots, giving priority to the thickest ones. The cuts resulting from the operation should be treated with healing mastic. The optimal compound is kanuma.

Pruning

Since these are fast-growing plants, it won't take long for them to develop good branching. Before flowering, the branches must be thinned out, pruning the shoots that grow directly upwards or downwards; in an already formed plant, even the strongest shoots must be cut. When the tree is about to flower, in order to avoid excessive stress on the tree, a selection of buds is made. Every 12-13 years, to reinvigorate the plant and obtain the best possible flowering, the Japanese recommend completely removing the main branches and starting the shaping process again. When pruning, care must be taken to prune the apex less than other parts of the tree, as this is the weakest area.

Pinching

This is done to help stimulate the growth of new branches and keep the bonsai's foliage compact and well-structured. This practice consists of gently removing the tips of new shoots, which are still soft. It should be done throughout the growing season, from spring to summer, but not during flowering, as the flower buds could be damaged. The operation should be carried out regularly, every 2-3 weeks, when the new shoots are still young, and consists of removing about 2-4 leaves to stimulate denser growth and reduce overly long internodes, which could compromise the shape of the bonsai.

Wiring

The best time to apply the wire is after flowering because, having pruned, the structure of the tree is more visible. Copper wire is the most suitable because it is stiffer than copper-coated aluminum wire and therefore provides a better hold, especially for thick branches. To achieve good results without taking any risks with this technique, it is important to bear in mind that azalea wood is very delicate and therefore young branches should not be wrapped. One tip to keep in mind when applying the wire is to cover it with florist's tape to avoid leaving marks on the bark. You should also take care to remove it as soon as it starts to cut into the bark. For thick, vigorous branches, it is better not to use wire to shape them, but rather tie rods and weights.

Fertilization

At the end of flowering, after pruning, apply Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer combined with Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer three times every 8-10 days. During other periods, use Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer every 15-25 days, excluding July and August. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter), apply Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer. It is also advisable to apply Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution 6-8 times a year. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Liquid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Care

The diseases to which azaleas are most frequently susceptible are: scale insects, aphids, mites, red spider mites, and sooty mold. To prevent these pests from attacking the plant, simply follow the correct maintenance rules, especially with regard to exposure and watering. However, if they do appear, they can be easily eradicated by applying specific products. However, to avoid having to treat the plant once it has already been attacked, it is advisable to carry out appropriate preventive treatments periodically.

An unusual thing about a pepper bonsai is its yellow wood and yellow roots.

2026-06-21T07:33:00.000-07:00

The species widespread in Italy is Schinus molle, also known as Falsopepe and the Pepper Tree. Morphologically, it is a fast-growing evergreen, weeping tree. In nature, it reaches up to 8 metres in height and width. It has fern-like leaves, consisting of numerous narrow elongated, glossy, deep green leaves. From the end of winter to summer they develop in open, tiny yellow clusters, followed by pea-sized, fuchsia-red fruits that gradually take on the classic dark shade of pepper. In bonsai training it is highly prized due to its harmonious proportions. In addition, the very small, deep green leaves and the distinctive bark, which gives it a mature appearance even at a young age, contribute to making it a particularly suitable species for bonsai art. The styles to which it is best suited are rockery and informal upright.

Location

When training this species as a bonsai, it is important to remember that it is an indoor plant and therefore needs to be kept in a very bright spot during the winter months, with temperatures no lower than 10°C. From May to September, it is best to place it outdoors in a well-ventilated spot in partial shade.

Watering

The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for the pepper tree, but bear in mind that in hotter periods and in strong winds, you will need to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and excess water can cause serious damage to the plant. More specifically, a lack of water causes the leaves to wilt and stunted growth, while excess water causes the tips of the leaves to turn black.

Repotting

The best time to repot is in late spring, when the temperature is around 15°-20° C. Repot mature specimens every 3-4 years, while younger plants should be repotted every 1-2 years. The ideal mixture consists of 70% akadama and 30% sand.

Pruning

When it comes to pruning, a distinction must be made: if it is maintenance pruning, there are no limitations, as the plant responds well at any time of year; if, on the other hand, you need to prune large branches, the best time to do so is in the fall, protecting the wounds with healing mastic.

Pinching

To pinch back the Pepper tree, allow the shoots to grow to 8/10 leaves, then cut them back to 2/4, depending on where they are on the tree. To maintain the silhouette, pinch continuously with your fingers, removing the last two budding leaves from each shoot when it already has two leaves. This makes the branches particularly dense, so they will need to be thinned with scissors twice a year: in May and at the end of August.

Wiring

Given the slow growth of this plant, even the twigs that appear thin are in many cases old and therefore fragile, so it will be necessary, if necessary, to use wire with the necessary precautions. Although the most appropriate time is spring, when the wood is less fragile, there are no restrictions on applying the wrapping throughout the rest of the year. The wire should be removed before it starts to cut into the bark. Obviously, as this is a slow-growing species, a growing season will have to pass.

Fertilization

When growth resumes (March-April), fertilize every 8-10 days, combining Bonsan Stimulating Action Fertilizer with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer. From April to September, fertilize every 8-10 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or every 15-20 days with Bonsan Aburukasu Organic Solid Fertilizer, avoiding the months of July and August. From September to February, use Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer every 15-20 days. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Organic Mineral Fluid Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Care

This species is not particularly prone to disease, but occasionally it can be attacked by aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, and red spider mites. If these pests are present, it is advisable to treat the plant with common pesticides, using the recommended doses indicated on the package and carrying out at least three treatments at ten-day intervals.

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Akebia quinata is ideal for growing as a bonsai due to its rapid growth and climbing nature.

2026-06-14T11:00:00.000-07:00

Native to China and Japan, Akebia quinata is a semi-evergreen climber with compound leaves consisting of five ovate-oblong leaflets. It flowers between April and May, producing small pink-purple flowers grouped in racemes: the male flowers at the base and the female flowers towards the tips. In summer, the flowers are followed by fruits: small pods containing soft pulp and countless tiny seeds.

Location

Akebia bonsai prefers a sunny or semi-shaded position, where it can receive at least a few hours of direct sunlight per day. Good exposure promotes flowering and keeps the vegetation compact. It is a species that can be grown outdoors all year round; in winter, if temperatures drop below 43°F, it is advisable to protect it in a cold greenhouse or frost shelter. In summer, in very hot climates, it is preferable to shade it during the hottest hours to avoid dehydration and leaf burns.

Watering

The common rule of watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch is also ideal for Akebia, bearing in mind, however, that in hotter periods and in strong winds, it is necessary to water more frequently. In fact, in these cases, the soil often risks becoming completely dry. It is also important to bear in mind that both a lack of water and excess water can cause serious damage to the plant. More specifically, a lack of water causes the leaves to wilt and stunted growth, while excess water causes the tips of the leaves to turn black.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every 2–3 years, in spring, before active growth begins. This operation is useful for controlling the expansion of the roots, which tend to be very vigorous, and for renewing the soil. The roots can be pruned by up to a third of their total volume, keeping the finest and healthiest ones. The substrate must be well-drained but with a good capacity to retain moisture. After repotting, it is advisable to protect the plant from direct sunlight for about a week.

Pruning

Pruning Akebia bonsai is essential to keep it in shape, as it tends to grow rapidly and extend its shoots in a disorderly manner. Structural pruning is carried out in spring, cutting back branches that are too vigorous or disorderly and maintaining the desired shape. During the growing season, light pruning can be done to contain growth and encourage branching. After flowering, in late spring or early summer, more severe pruning can be done to stimulate the production of new shoots. Regular pruning helps to keep the structure compact and improves the aesthetics of the bonsai.

Pinching

Pinching is needed to contain growth and stimulate finer branching. Akebia produces new shoots very quickly, especially in spring and summer, so it is necessary to prune often. You can prune by shortening the new shoots when they have developed 4–5 leaves, leaving 2–3 to maintain a compact shape. This operation should be repeated regularly during the active season, always using sharp scissors and making clean cuts. Constant pruning also helps to balance the distribution of sap and prevent some areas from growing too much at the expense of others.

Wiring

Akebia has flexible branches that lend themselves well to training, especially when young. Wire can be applied in spring or fall, shaping the shoots to define the structure and direction of growth. However, rapid growth requires frequent checks, as the wire can easily mark the bark in a short time. Alternatively, to avoid damage, you can use tie rods or light ties to guide the branches. Being a climbing species, Akebia naturally tends to twine, so twining can also take advantage of this characteristic to create natural and harmonious movements.

Fertilization

Being a vigorous plant, Akebia bonsai needs regular fertilization throughout the growing season. In spring, you can use a fertilizer richer in nitrogen to stimulate growth, while in early autumn it is better to opt for a fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium to promote lignification and flowering the following year. Avoid fertilizing in winter and summer, when the plant slows down its activity.

Care

Akebia bonsai are generally hardy, but can be prone to problems if neglected. The leaves can turn yellow due to overwatering or nutritional deficiencies, while aphids and mites can attack tender shoots in spring. Good air circulation, proper watering, and balanced nutrition are the basis for keeping it healthy. Flowering, with its fragrant blooms, is one of the most beautiful moments and occurs in spring, provided the plant has received enough light and care throughout the year. In autumn, some varieties may also develop decorative fruits.