The Art and Soul of Baking

Happy New Year - Ring It In Sweetly, and Have Some Baking Fun

2008-12-31T08:00:00-08:00

I got two pieces of baking equipment for Christmas this year. You might think I have all the equipment in the world at my disposal, but I continually edit to keep it all from piling up around me. At one point, my kitchen gear took up not only my kitchen and an adjacent closet, but half the garage as well! I love all the fun pans and gadgets, but a few years ago, in an effort to make room for the car, I pleaded with my family, “no more equipment!” Then I pared back to the equipment I deemed essential for my kitchen. Much of the excess was given to baking students eager to fill their kitchens, and some was donated to charity. I could even park the car in the garage! But recently, I found myself positively wistful for some new equipment or decorating tools. So I was both surprised and elated when I received two pieces of equipment for the holidays…an Ebelskiver pan and a Giant Cupcake Pan.

The giant cupcake is a party in a pan. Huge, with a full-on wink toward the little individual versions (isn’t that the point of a cupcake?), this is definitely centerpiece material. The pan has two compartments, one for the cone-like top of the cupcake, and the other for the fluted bottom portion. Once cooled, you stack them, gluing them together with icing. Kids and adults alike go crazy for its damn-the-diet, behemoth appearance, and I have to admit, it sure is cute. The only drawback is that the top of the cake looks like a mound of frosting, which begs the question – where does the real (Rebecca, italics “real”) dome of frosting go? Because, let’s face it, frosting is at least half the reason we eat cupcakes. If you frost only the outside of the giant cupcake, there’s just not enough of the gooey stuff to be satisfying. But if you slice each piece of the cake in two and fill them with frosting, then finish the outside with a thin layer of frosting, you get a moist, 4-layer, towering, Texas-size cupcake that will satisfy everyone.

I’ve included the Classic Yellow Layer Cake recipe from the book below that is perfect for layer cakes (or even standard-size cupcakes), and it works very well in the giant cupcake pan. You’ll need to double the recipe for enough batter to fill the giant cupcake pan – and because there are a couple of pan sizes out there, take care to only fill the pan 2/3 full. Any excess batter can be used for small cupcakes or a cake on the side. The deep giant cupcake pan will take longer to bake than the shallow cake pans of the recipe, so be sure to test with a toothpick and look for visual clues instead of relying on the baking time included in the recipe.

When I saw the ebelskiver pan, it took me right back to childhood and family visits to Solvang in central California, a Disney-esque version of a Danish city, replete with, thatch-roofed buildings, pricey boutiques, and lots and lots of ebelskivers and petit fours. I’m quite sure they served other things in the city as well, but even before my pastry career began, I was focused on the sweets. Ebelskivers are small balls of light dough surrounding a center of jam. Served warm from the pan and showered with powdered sugar, they are a true delight. I’d never thought to make them at home, but suddenly I had not only a craving, but also just the pan for the job. I jumped up, made my favorite pancake batter, got out some fabulous Italian sour cherry jam (another lovely gift), and tried out the pan then and there. Yum! They were better than anything I’d ever eaten in Solvang. And it was so fun! Guess what we’re having New Year’s morning? As I make my new year’s resolutions for 2009, having fun in the kitchen is definitely near the top of the list. I hope it’s on yours as well. Keep on baking!

This is my final posting for this fall-into-winter baking blog that celebrates the world of pastry and the book The Art and Soul of Baking. The postings will be up for quite a while to come, so check back when you need a recipe, or want to read up on topics or specific postings that you’ve missed. And if you know kids who enjoy baking, or want to learn, look for another great book from myself and Sur La Table on kids baking due out next fall. It'll have some dynamite recipes and step-by-step instructions for the next generation of bakers. It’s been a pleasure sharing my love of baking with you. Keep the comments and questions coming. You can contact me at cindy (at) cindymushet (dot) com. Best wishes to everyone for a happy and treat-filled new year!

More Happy New Year ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Classic Yellow Layer Cake

Serves 8 to 10

This buttery, vanilla-scented cake is a variation on pound cake, with a little extra leavener added to lighten the crumb. Although nearly any frosting pairs well with this celebration favorite, it is especially luscious filled and frosted with silken chocolate ganache for the two-toned birthday cake most of us remember from childhood. Cream cheese frosting is also a lovely dance partner to this tender, flavorful cake when you want something lighter in color, tangy in flavor, or just easy to color for some decorating fun.

Equipment: 9 by 1¾-inch Round Cake Pan, Stand Mixer Fitted with a Paddle Attachment or a Hand Mixer and a Medium Bowl, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Small Bowl, Fine-Mesh Strainer, Medium Bowl, Whisk, Cooling Rack, Two (9-inch) Round Cake Cardboards or Tart Pan Bottoms, Thin and Flexible Knife or Spatula, Serrated Knife, Icing Spatula, Thin and Sharp Knife

1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, softened (65° to 68°F)
¾ cup (5¼ ounces) sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups (7 ounces) sifted cake flour
¾ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¹⁄³ cup (3 ounces) sour cream, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350°F and position an oven rack in the center. Lightly coat the pan with melted butter, oil or high-heat canola-oil spray and dust with flour, tapping out any excess.
Cream the butter with the sugar: Place the butter and sugar in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat on medium until very light—almost white—in color, 4 to 5 minutes. You can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl, although you may need to beat the mixture a little longer to achieve the same results. Scrape down the bowl with the spatula.
Add the eggs: Beat the eggs and vanilla in the small bowl to blend. With the mixer on medium, add the eggs to the butter mixture about 1 tablespoon at a time, allowing each addition to completely blend in before adding the next. About halfway through, turn off the mixer and scrape down the bowl, then resume adding the eggs. Scrape down the bowl again.
Add the dry and wet ingredients alternately: With the fine-mesh strainer, sift the cake flour, baking soda, and salt into the medium bowl and whisk together. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add the flour mixture and the sour cream alternately, beginning with one-third of the flour mixture and half the sour cream; repeat, then finish with flour mixture. Scrape down the bowl and finish blending the batter by hand, if necessary.
Bake the cake: Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.

Storing: The cake can be stored at room temperature for 2 days or in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Be sure to remove it from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving to allow the cake and frosting to soften to the perfect eating consistency. Once cut, there is no need to wrap the whole cake with plastic; simply press a piece of plastic wrap firmly against the cut surfaces to keep the cake fresh.

Classic White Layer Cake: Same delicious flavor, but with a soft white crumb that is especially appropriate for baby showers, weddings, and tea cakes. Follow the recipe, but substitute 4 large egg whites for the 3 whole eggs.

Yellow or White Cupcakes: Bake the yellow or white batter in a standardsize muffin tin lined with paper cupcake liners, filling each cup to ¼ inch from the top of the liner. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. You’ll need just ½ recipe of the ganache to frost the cupcakes. Makes about 12 cupcakes.

Mini Yellow or White Cupcakes: Bake the yellow or white batter in a mini-muffin tin lined with mini-cupcake liners, filling each cup with 1 tablespoon of batter to ¼ inch from the top of the liner. Bake for 11 to 14 minutes, until firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Makes about 50 mini cupcakes.

Tools of the Trade:

Round Cake Boards

Cold Nights, Hot Chocolate

2008-12-29T08:00:00-08:00

Winter is definitely here, even in Los Angeles. Oh, we still have plenty of sunshine, but at night the temperature can dip surprisingly low (well, it sure feels low). Whether winter means 40F. or -40F., when bone-chilling cold comes around, it’s time for some deeply warming food and drink. And nothing says “warmth” like chocolate.

Winter brings out the chocoholic in me. The darker the chocolate, the better. If it’s bittersweet and hot, I’m there, whether it’s a steaming bowl of hot chocolate or a meltingly warm dessert like molten center chocolate cake, chocolate bread pudding, or brownies still warm in the pan. The ultimate in hot chocolate desserts is the ethereal soufflé – hands-down my favorite. Simple to prepare, as desserts go, yet sublimely elegant. And even a small, individual portion of soufflé is incredibly satisfying.

Whenever I mention chocolate soufflé, my guests gasp as though I’ve prepared some miracle. They seem to think a soufflé is labor intensive, mysterious, and way too fragile. But the truth is…if you can whip egg whites and melt dark chocolate, you’re nearly there. The most time-consuming part of chocolate soufflé is preparing the dishes. And the best part of all – and what makes it perfect for entertaining – is that chocolate soufflés can be prepared up to a day ahead, kept in the refrigerator until the dinner dishes are cleared, then simply popped in the oven to bake while you relax. Dessert doesn’t get much better than that!

Raspberry Souffles with Hidden Chocolate Truffles

The best way to eat soufflé is in a dish that’s all-to-yourself. I like to make it in individual portions so everyone gets their own. I’ve made chocolate soufflés in dishes ranging from the classic ribbed white dishes (or ramekins) to coffee cups, demitasse cups, custard cups, and more. As long as the vehicle has straight sides to guide the soufflé upward, it will crown beautifully. And individual desserts is bake quickly, so you can enjoy them sooner. If I end up with an extra dish or two full of batter, I simply wrap in plastic and freeze, then bake another day (or night, when it’s ‘mom’s movie time’).

The recipe below gives you lots of guidance on making a sensuously satisfying soufflé. If you’re a visual learner, or just want a bit more direction, be sure to check out the video of me making chocolate soufflé in the cookbook club section (registration is free) of Gourmet.com. And while custard sauce (recipe below) is the classic accompaniment, whipped cream is also a great option. Or, try my favorite - a miniature scoop of ice cream (I love coffee) dropped right into the center of the hot souffle. The ice cream melts halfway, creating a lovely blend of liquid custard sauce and bracingly cold ice cream against the hot chocolate. Oh yeah. Choose a rich, dark chocolate, and this dessert will warm your soul on a cold winter’s night.

More Cold Nights, Hot Chocolate ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Bittersweet Chocolate Soufflés with Vanilla Custard Sauce

Serves 8

This is the ultimate dessert soufflé. It delivers dark chocolate in an elegant party dress, and is also the only soufflé that can be prepared up to 24 hours in advance and held in the refrigerator before baking. Since the sauce can be made in advance as well, the combination is perfect for entertaining.

Equipment: Eight (5½- or 6-Ounce) Individual Soufflé Dishes, Double Boiler, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Small Saucepan, Whisk, Large Bowl, Stand Mixer Fitted with a Whisk Attachment or a Hand Mixer and a Medium Bowl, Pastry Bag Fitted with a ½-inch Plain Tip, Baking Sheet, Fine-Mesh Strainer

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (up to 70 percent cacao), finely chopped
1 tablespoon (½ ounce) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 tablespoon (½ ounce) unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup (4 ounces) whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon instant espresso powder
dissolved in ½ teaspoon water
Pinch of salt
3 large eggs, separated, plus 1 additional egg white
¼ cup (1¾ ounces) granulated sugar
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Vanilla Custard Sauce (below)

Preheat the oven to 375°F and position an oven rack in the bottom third. Generously butter the soufflé dishes (including the rims), dust them with sugar, and tap out the excess.
Melt the chocolate: Pour 2 inches of water in the bottom of the double boiler and bring to a rolling boil. Off the heat, place the chocolate in the top of the double boiler. Turn the heat off and set the chocolate over the steaming water. Stir occasionally with the spatula until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Leave over the warm water until needed. Alternately, melt the chocolate in the microwave and set aside.
Make the béchamel: Melt the butter in the small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat, add the flour, and whisk well to remove any lumps. Return to the heat and cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Remove the pan from the heat and add the milk slowly, whisking constantly to remove any lumps. Return the pan to the heat and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until thickened to the consistency of thin pudding. Remove from the heat and whisk in the vanilla. Whisk in the espresso powder and pinch of salt. With a clean spatula, scrape the melted chocolate into the large bowl. Add the béchamel sauce and whisk to blend. Whisk in the egg yolks. Cover and keep warm while you whip the egg whites.
Whip the egg whites: In the very clean bowl of the stand mixer, whip the 4 egg whites on medium speed until they form soft peaks. With the mixer running, rain in the granulated sugar and beat until firm peaks form. You can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl. With a spatula, gently stir one-fourth of the egg whites into the chocolate béchamel sauce to lighten the mixture. Fold in the remaining whites just until there are no more streaks of whites.
Fill the dishes and bake: Transfer the soufflé batter to the pastry bag. Pipe the batter into each soufflé dish, filling it to ¼ inch below the rim. Transfer the dishes to the baking sheet. Bake for 14 to 18 minutes (higher percentage chocolates will bake more quickly), until the soufflés are set and firm to the touch in the center. Serve immediately, dusted with confectioners’ sugar and accompanied by individual pitchers of custard sauce. For an over-the-top dessert, break open the tops of the soufflés and, instead of the custard sauce, pour in caramel sauce and chocolate sauce, then top with generous spoonfuls of whipped cream. Pass additional sauce and cream around the table. Ooh-la-la!

Getting Ahead: The soufflé batter can be piped into the dishes up to 24 hours before baking. Set them on the baking sheet, wrap with plastic so that the chocolate does not absorb flavors, and refrigerate. Unwrap and transfer the sheet of soufflés directly to the oven for baking.

Vanilla Custard Sauce

Makes 2 1/3 cups

Custard sauce, also known as crème anglaise, is a smooth, velvety sauce, a great for companion for desserts that benefit from a pool of cool creaminess to highlight and complete their flavor and texture. Because it is a custard, it may be flavored in many ways by infusing spices, nuts, citrus zest, tea leaves, and more into the milk portion before beginning the cooking process.

Equipment: Large Bowl, Medium Saucepan, Paring Knife, Small Bowl, Whisk, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Instant-Read Thermometer, Fine-Mesh Strainer, Medium Bowl

1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk
1 cup (8 ounces) heavy whipping cream
¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar
1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
5 large egg yolks

Fill the large bowl halfway with ice and water and set it aside. Combine the milk, cream, and sugar in the medium saucepan and warm over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved. (If you are using vanilla extract, proceed to Step 2.) Use the tip of a paring knife to cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Turn the knife over and use the dull side to scrape out the seeds, and add both the seeds and the pod to the saucepan. Heat until the mixture just begins to simmer. Remove from the heat and let steep for 30 minutes, or until you like the flavor.
Heat the milk mixture to just below the boiling point. Remove the pan from the heat. In the small bowl, whisk the egg yolks together. Slowly pour about 1 cup of the hot milk into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly, to temper the yolks. Slowly pour the yolk mixture back into the hot milk in the saucepan, whisking all the while. Return to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly with the spatula, until the custard thickens and registers 178° to 180°F on the thermometer.
Immediately strain the custard sauce through the strainer set over the medium bowl to remove any tiny bits of scrambled egg. (Save the vanilla bean: Rinse it thoroughly, allow to dry, then use it to make vanilla sugar.) If you’re using vanilla extract instead of the vanilla bean, add it now and whisk to blend. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the sauce then set the bowl into the bowl of ice water. Once the custard sauce has completely cooled, use or store in the refrigerator until needed.

Storing: Keep the custard sauce for up to 5 days from the day it was made, refrigerated in an airtight container with a piece of plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface to prevent a skin from forming.

What The Pros Know: Be very careful that you do not allow the mixture to boil once you have added the egg yolks, for they will scramble and cause the sauce to separate. If you have an instant-read thermometer, watch for a temperature of 178° to 180°F, a point—just under boiling—at which the egg yolks will thicken, but not scramble. When testing the temperature, remove the pan from the heat to prevent the eggs on the bottom of the pan from scrambling while the thermometer takes a few seconds to register. If the custard begins to boil, immediately strain it through a fine strainer, then smooth it out by pouring it into a blender and blending on “liquefy” for 10 to 15 seconds (be cautious with hot liquid in a blender—never fill it more than halfway, and remove the center portion of the lid to allow steam to escape). Strain again and cool as directed.

Tools of the Trade:

Revol® White Porcelain Soufflé Dishes

The Warmth of Christmas Breakfast

2008-12-24T08:00:00-08:00

There’s a lot required of Christmas breakfast – it needs to be special, celebratory, easy (or at least do-ahead), appealing to kids and adults, and not too filling, since there are treats and dinner just ahead. That’s a tall order for a morning meal. My solution is to always go simple, seasonal and comforting. We have steaming café au lait bowls of hot chocolate topped with cream, a compote dish filled with citrus segments – blood oranges, navel oranges, oro blanco and ruby grapefruit – along with super-crisp bacon, and either French toast or scones, both of which can be prepared ahead of time.

For French toast, simply soak the bread in the custard overnight and it will be ready to sauté to golden crispness in the morning. I like to include cardamom, cinnamon, and a splash of Grand Marnier in the custard. Scones can be prepared even further in advance, so there’s nothing to do the night before. Several days (or weeks) ahead, make the scone dough, cut it into portions, freeze until firm, then transfer into a ziptop freezer bag until Christmas morning. Once the bacon is done, turn the oven up and, as you warm the hot chocolate, bake the scones (yep, straight from the freezer to the oven, adding a couple of minutes to the baking time). Or if you don’t want to get that far ahead, simply make the dough the night before, cut it, and arrange for baking on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until morning.

There are plenty of delicious scone ideas, but the most outrageously over-the-top one I can think of is Chocolate Toffee Scones. Moist and tender and bursting with mini chocolate chips and toffee chips, then topped with even more toffee chips that melt into a crisp crust of caramel-y goodness, these are a special occasion treat. Just the sort of thing for Christmas morning. If you want to be just a bit more restrained, try the Buttermilk Scones with Dried Cherries and Orange, which are deceptively simple yet incredibly addictive. Both of these recipes have converted scone haters – “they’re so dry and dense” – into scone addicts – “Oh wow, this is how scones are supposed to taste!” Comforting, easy, and delicious – either one is pretty much the perfect start for a warm and wonderful Christmas. Merry Christmas to you and yours.

More A Taste of Tradition ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Chocolate Toffee Scones

Makes 8 Scones

For those who like their breakfast, tea, or snack time treats to be outrageously over the top, these decadent scones, filled with miniature chocolate and toffee chips, are just the ticket. They are especially moist due to the inclusion of eggs in the dough rather than the usual cream or buttermilk. You could dress them up with the grated zest of an orange or a handful of toasted and finely chopped walnuts or almonds, but the extra sprinkling of toffee chips already gilds these lilies. The toffee melts, then cools into a crunchy, golden brown topping. Oh yeah.

Equipment: Baking Sheet, Parchment Paper or a Thin Silicone Mat, Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade, Small Bowl, Whisk, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Chef’s Knife, Cooling Rack

2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
½ cup (3½ ounces) mini chocolate chips
½ cup (2½ ounces) plus ¹⁄³ cup (1¾ ounces) toffee baking bits
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) milk
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 400°F and position an oven rack in the center. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper or a thin silicone mat. Place the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of the food processor and process for 10 seconds to blend well. Add the cold butter pieces and pulse 5 times at 1-second intervals, or until the butter is cut into medium pieces. Add the mini chocolate chips and the ½ cup toffee baking bits but do not blend them in. In the small bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and vanilla until well blended. Pour the egg mixture into the processor and pulse another 25 times, or until the dough holds together in large, thick clumps.
Use a spatula to scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently squeeze or knead the clumps together until they form a cohesive dough—it may seem a bit dry at first, but will come together with a few kneads. Pat the dough into a circle 7 inches in diameter and about 1 inch thick. Use a chef’s knife to cut the dough into 8 equal wedges and transfer to the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 2 inches apart.
Lightly press the remaining ¹⁄³ cup toffee chips onto the tops of the scones, dividing evenly. Bake for 14 to 17 minutes, until fully risen and golden brown, especially around the bottom edges. Transfer to a rack and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve the scones warm or at room temperature.

Storing: Once baked, serve the scones within 6 hours, when they are at their freshest and most appealing. Store uncovered at room temperature until serving time.

Buttermilk Scones with Dried Cherries and Orange

Makes 8 Scones

Buttermilk does wonders for baked goods, adding a touch of acidity and an appealingly homey taste whenever it is included. Buttermilk scones are a classic—these are perfumed with orange zest and flavored with chewy nuggets of dried sour cherries. And they’re easily adapted. Omit the sugar and you’ve got warm dinner biscuits. Change the flavorings and you change the scone—try dried blueberries and lemon zest, dried cranberries and ginger, or dried apricots and toasted hazelnuts.

Equipment: Baking Sheet, Parchment Paper or a Thin Silicone Mat, Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Chef’s Knife, Pastry Brush, Cooling Rack

2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
1¾ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
½ cup (3 ounces) dried sour cherries
¾ cup (6 ounces) cold buttermilk
1 egg, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 425°F and position an oven rack in the center. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper or a thin silicone mat. Place the flour, ¼ cup sugar, orange zest, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of the food processor and process for 10 seconds to blend well. Add the cold butter pieces and pulse 5 times at 1-second intervals, or until the butter is cut into medium pieces. Add the dried cherries, but don’t blend them in. Pour in the buttermilk and pulse another 20 times, or until the dough holds together in large, thick clumps. Use a spatula to scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently squeeze or knead the clumps together until they form a cohesive dough.
If the dough seems sticky, lightly dust your work surface with flour. Pat the dough into a circle 7 inches in diameter and about 1 inch thick. Use a chef’s knife to cut the dough into 8 equal wedges and transfer to the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 2 inches apart.
Brush the tops with a thin coating of the beaten egg (you will not use all the egg). Sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake for 14 to 17 minutes, until firm to the touch and golden brown. Transfer to a rack and let cool for 5 minutes. Serve the scones warm or at room temperature.

Storing: Once the scones are baked, serve them within 2 hours, when they are at their freshest and most appealing. Store uncovered at room temperature until serving time.

Tools of the Trade:

Holiday Regency Natural Parchment Paper

Creating A Gorgeous Cookie Tray

2008-12-22T08:00:00-08:00

No doubt about it, its cookie time. No matter how much we love them the rest of the year, during the holiday season, we go into an absolute frenzy for cookies. For proof just look at the cover of nearly any December-issue food and family magazine.

There’s no better gift than a tray of assorted cookies from your kitchen. And after you’ve put all that effort into making wonderful cookies, why not make their presentation as good as the flavor? With very little effort, you can make a gorgeous cookie tray to rival one from any patisserie. To truly showcase your handiwork, however, there are a few things to take into consideration. Here are my top 5 tips for the most beautiful presentation.

Plan an assortment of colors Obviously there will be shades of brown –after all, they’re cookies! But some dramatic differences are more fun to arrange and admire than an assortment that doesn’t offer obvious differences between cookies. For instance, place dark chocolate cookies next to powdered sugar-covered cookies next to chocolate chip next to raspberry jam-filled cookies. When choosing the cookies to prepare, think about how they’ll look next to each other.
Be sure to create an assortment of shapes Again, a variety of shapes makes the cookie platter pop. Lots of cookies are round, but the holiday season offers other shapes as well. Linzer cookies with little Christmas tree cut-outs in the center offering a glimpse of jam, or squares of caramelized nut bars, sugar cookies cut in the shape of stars, or spritz cookies piped into bars or letters of the alphabet. You can even create a sense of shape by dipping some of the cookies halfway into dark, milk or white chocolate. If the cookies are square and you dip them in chocolate on the diagonal, suddenly you have triangles as part of the picture. Likewise, a drizzle of lines across a round cookie adds additional texture, color, and visual interest.
All the cookies should be approximately the same size For the prettiest platter, you want all the cookies to be similar in size. Large cookies that dwarf the others, and tiny cookies that get hidden beneath their neighbors make the whole arrangement look haphazard and messy. If all the cookies are similar in size, their different shapes and colors really stand out.
Arrange them in rows or groups of cookie type Just like a garden, you don’t want a tulip next to a rose next to a daisy. You create drama and a visual impact when you group the same items together. You can either group the same cookies together in a strip or wedge (think spokes of a wheel or slices of pie), or arrange them in straight lines, like the offerings on a buffet table in a hotel. Ten chocolate cookies in a straight or angled line, slightly overlapping, next to ten Russian tea balls next to ten thumbprint cookies is a sight to behold. Line them up precisely, like soldiers in formation, and your platter will look like it came from a patisserie.
Assemble the cookie trays at the last moment to keep flavors and textures intact Some cookies are crisp and dry, while others are moist and chewy. If you put them all together, wrap tightly and leave for a few hours, not only will the crisp cookies soften as they absorb moisture from the chewy cookies, but the moist cookies will taste stale. Even worse, all the flavors mingle and start to taste like one big and very confused cookie. If you want to bake ahead, be sure to store each cookie type in a separate airtight ziptop bag or container until you are ready to assemble the tray. Once assembled, it’s best to deliver the tray as soon as possible, while all the flavors and textures are at their best.

Please enjoy my version of spritz cookies, offered below, for your cookie selection this holiday season. Simple and buttery, like the best ones, this cookie has almond paste added to the dough for a rich, round almond flavor, and a touch of orange blossom water for a hint of the exotic. Leave them plain, pipe a dot of chocolate into the center, or fill them with jam. Shape them with a cookie press, or pipe them through a star tip in a pastry bag – they’re beautiful any way you make them.

More Creating A Gorgeous Cookie Tray ideas and recipes follow after the jump Almond-Chocolate Spritz Cookies with Orange Blossom Water Makes about 45 (2-inch) cookies

These are deeply almond due to the inclusion of almond paste, with a lovely tender crumb and enough structure to support a pool of dark chocolate in the center. The orange blossom water, with its delicate perfume of white citrus flowers, lends another subtle layer of flavor. If you can’t find orange blossom water, substitute vanilla extract, which will impart its own unique floral notes to the dough.

Equipment: Stand Mixer Fitted with a Paddle Attachment or a Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Two Baking Sheets, Parchment Paper, Large Pastry Bag Fitted with a ½-inch Open Star Tip or a Cookie Press, Wooden Spoon, Small Microwave-Safe Bowl

Dough

½ cup (5 ounces) firmly packed almond paste (do not substitute marzipan)
¾ cup (5¼ ounces) sugar
1¾ sticks (7 ounces) unsalted butter, softened (65° to 68°F)
1 large egg plus 1 yolk
1 teaspoon orange blossom water or pure vanilla extract
2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt

Chocolate Filling

2 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate (up to 56 percent cacao), finely chopped
1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream

Mix the dough: Place the almond paste and sugar in the bowl of the stand mixer (or in the food processor). Beat on medium speed for 1½ to 2 minutes (or process for 45 seconds), until the almond paste is broken into tiny pieces. Add the butter and continue to beat for another 2 minutes (or process for 1 minute), until the mixture is well blended and slightly lighter in color. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with the spatula.
Add the egg and yolk and blend well (or process for 15 seconds). Add the orange blossom water and beat another 15 seconds to blend (or process for 5 seconds). Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the flour and salt. Turn the mixer to the lowest speed and blend slowly (or process for 10 to 15 seconds), just until there are no more patches of flour. Remove the bowl and stir gently a few times with the spatula to make sure there are no patches of unincorporated flour or butter lurking near the bottom of the bowl.
Shape the dough: Line the baking sheets with parchment paper. Immediately spoon half of the dough into the pastry bag fitted with the star tip. Pipe rosettes (see page 310) on a prepared baking sheet, spacing the cookies about 1 inch apart. (Alternatively, use the cookie press according to the manufacturer’s instructions.) The rosettes should be about ½ inch thick and about 1¾ inches in diameter. Repeat with the remaining dough. Chill the sheets in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F and position two oven racks in the upper and lower thirds.
Bake the cookies, switching the sheets between the racks and rotating each front to back halfway through, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the cookies are rich, golden brown around the edges and across the bottom. Transfer to a cooling rack.
Immediately use the rounded handle end of the wooden spoon (or another kitchen utensil) to make a depression in the center of each cookie about ½ inch across. Be careful not to push so hard that you crack the cookie or break through to the baking sheet below. Let the cookies cool completely.
Fill the cookies: Place the chopped chocolate and cream in the microwavesafe bowl and microwave on low for 30 seconds. Stir the mixture. Heat again for 30 seconds and stir until smooth. If there are still lumps, heat again for 30 seconds. Once smooth, spoon a little chocolate into each depression in the cookies. Allow the filling to cool and set completely.

Storing: These cookies are at their best the first or second day. Keep them in an airtight container, layered between sheets of parchment or waxed paper to keep them from sticking to each other, for up to 4 days.

Almond Spritz Cookies with Apricot or Raspberry Jam

Make the cookie dough and bake as directed above, but instead of chocolate for the centers, use good-quality apricot or raspberry jam and fill the cookies while they are still warm. You’ll need about ¼ cup (2¾ ounces) of jam (or a little bit more if there are seeds or chunks of fruit in the jam). Warm the jam in a small saucepan or in the microwave; then, to remove any large lumps or seeds, push it though a medium strainer into a bowl. Spoon the warm jam into the warm cookies and allow them to finish cooling together (this warm jam into warm cookies trick gives the jam a shiny, professional finish). Any leftover jam can be returned to the jar and used another day. For an extra layer of flavor and a beautiful finish, melt an ounce or two of dark chocolate and stripe it over the filled and cooled cookies.

Tools of the Trade:

Cuisinart ® Mini-Prep Plus Food Processor

Spices of the Season

2008-12-17T08:00:00-08:00

Don’t you just love the scent of holiday baking? Kitchens all across the country are filled with the warm aromas of cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, ginger and nutmeg. Spices are links to our ancient past, when they were used as medicine for centuries. They were considered quite valuable, and both trade routes and political alliances were for created to procure these precious food stuffs. Today, they enhance our baking in subtle and striking ways, turning a plain-Jane dessert into something quite memorable.

Spices are actually the dried bark, seeds and fruit of trees and plants, and I often wonder who the first person was to peel the bark from a type of laurel tree (for cinnamon), dry it and drop it into a stew pot…or the first person to ferment and dry vanilla beans. We had adventurous ancestors! We get to enjoy the fruits – or spices – of their labor in our favorite desserts of the season. Apple pie filled with cinnamon-scented apples, quince poached with cardamom (a relative of ginger), pears roasted with vanilla bean and cloves, and pumpkin pie, featuring a careful blend of spices, are fall and winter desserts that celebrate the season’s produce with that special underpinning of spice that rounds and completes the flavor profile of each dessert.

One of my favorite ways to enjoy the warm baking spices this time of year is gingerbread. Cookies, cake, scones, soufflés – even coffee drinks entice us with the name gingerbread. With the deep, round flavors of brown sugar and molasses playing against the blend of spices, I find nearly anything titled gingerbread irresistible. Today, I’d like to offer you a favorite recipe of mine that is perfect for holiday season entertaining – Gingerbread Shortcakes with Caramelized Apples and Cider Sabayon. It’s warm and comforting and elegant all at the same time. There’s plenty that can be done in advance, so be sure to check the notes at the end of the recipe. And if all you want is a great scone to start the day, warm gingerbread scones (the shortcakes of the recipe) are just the ticket on a winter’s morning. Gingerbread latte anyone?

More Spices of the Season ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Gingerbread Shortcakes with Caramelized Apples and Cider Sabayon

Serves 8

A very special ending to a celebratory autumn dinner (even if all you’re celebrating is falling leaves), these shortcakes offer layer after layer of favorite cold-weather flavors. And the apple, cinnamon, and caramel bring to mind those other seasonal favorites: wood smoke curling from the fireplace, big plaid blankets, and trees ablaze with color.

Equipment: Large Bowl, Double Boiler, Whisk or Hand Mixer, Instant-Read Thermometer, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Chef’s Knife, Pastry Brush, Baking Sheet, Parchment Paper, Cooling Rack, Large Sauté Pan or Skillet, Paring Knife

1 recipe Gingerbread Scones (see recipe below)

Cider Sabayon

6 large egg yolks
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) granulated sugar
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) Calvados or other apple brandy
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) apple juice
¾ cup (6 ounces) heavy whipping cream

To Finish The Scones

1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons turbinado (page 25) or Hawaiian washed raw sugar

Apples

6 large, tart baking apples (such as Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch-thick slices
½ cup (3½ ounces) granulated sugar
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Make the sabayon: Fill the large bowl halfway with ice and water and set it aside. Place 2 inches of water in the bottom of the double boiler and bring to a rolling boil. Reduce to a simmer. Place the egg yolks and sugar in the top of the double boiler off the heat and whisk briefly, just until well blended and slightly lightened in color. Add the Calvados and apple juice and blend well. Place the egg mixture over the simmering water and whisk constantly for about 5 minutes (a hand mixer can be used here), or until it becomes very light and fluffy, resembling softly whipped cream in texture, and registers 160°F on an instant-read thermometer. Do not exceed 165°For the eggs could scramble. If you see the sauce beginning to scramble around the edges, quickly remove the top of the double boiler from the heat and whisk vigorously. This will usually save the sauce, but if it still looks flat and broken, or there are large pieces of scrambled egg in the sauce, there is no recourse but to begin again with new ingredients. As soon as the sauce is finished, remove it from the heat. Place immediately in the bowl of ice water. Stir occasionally with the spatula until cold to the touch.
In the bowl of the stand mixer, or with a hand mixer and a medium bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks. Use a clean spatula to fold the whipped cream into the cooled sauce.
Cut and bake the scones: Preheat the oven to 425°F and position an oven rack in the center. Lightly dust the work surface with flour and pat the dough into an 8 by 4-inch rectangle. Use the chef’s knife to cut the dough in half lengthwise and into quarters crosswise, making eight 2-inch squares. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush off any excess flour and space them evenly on the prepared baking sheet. prinkle the turbinado sugar generously over the tops and press lightly into the surfaces. Bake for 14 to 15 minutes, until firm to the touch and golden in color. Transfer to a rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. These are best served while still warm, although they may be served cool.
Caramelize the apples: While the scones are baking, toss the apple slices with the sugar and cinnamon until evenly coated. You might think that there are too many apple slices, but they shrink quite a bit during the cooking process. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. When it has melted, swirl the pan to coat it with the melted butter, turn the heat to high, add half of the apple slices, and spread in a single layer. (Note: Don’t try to cook the apples all at once—if you crowd them, they’ll poach in their own juices rather than caramelize.) Cook, without stirring, for 2 minutes. Gently toss or stir the apples. Cook for 2 minutes longer, then toss or stir again. Continue in this manner until the apples are golden brown and cooked through (the tip of a paring knife should slide easily in and out of the slices), yet still hold their shape, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate. Repeat with the 1 remaining tablespoon of butter and the rest of the apple slices.
Assemble and serve the scones: Split the warm scones in half and place a bottom half on each plate. Spoon the apples onto the scone bottoms, allowing some to fall onto the plate. Top with a generous spoonful of cider sabayon. Place the scone tops slightly askew and serve immediately.

Getting Ahead: The scone dough can be cut, placed on the baking sheet, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated for up to 24 hours before baking. The cut dough can also be wrapped airtight on the baking sheet and frozen for up to 6 weeks—do not defrost before baking. In either case, the scones will not rise quite as high as when the dough is freshly made, but they will be delicious nonetheless. The sabayon can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerated, covered. If it softens, use a whisk to whip it back to the desired firmness just before serving. The apples can be cooked up to 8 hours in advance and kept, covered, in the refrigerator. Undercook the apples slightly, as they will continue to cook when you reheat them in a sauté pan just before serving.

Gingerbread Scones

2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached, all purpose flour
1/3 cup (2-1/2 ounces) firmly packed light brown sugar
1-3/4 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
2-1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoons ground cloves
¼ teaspoon salt
1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
½ cup + 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) buttermilk
2 tablespoons light, unsulfured molasses

Preheat the oven to 425 F. and position an oven rack in the center. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper or a thin silicone mat. Place the flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, cloves and salt in the bowl of the food processor and process for 10 seconds to blend well. Add the cold butter pieces and pulse 5 times at 1-second intervals, or until the butter is cut into medium pieces. Stir the molasses into the buttermilk thoroughly. Pour this mixture into the food processor and pulse another 20 times, or until the dough holds together in large, thick clumps. Use a spatula to scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Gently squeeze or knead the clumps together until they form a cohesive dough.
If the dough seems sticky, lightly dust your work surface with flour. Pat the dough into an 8 by 4-inch rectangle. Finish the recipe for Gingerbread Shortcakes as directed in Step 3 of the recipe above.

Tools of the Trade:

Mauviel® Copper Double Boiler

Gifts For Bakers – What Bakers Want!

2008-12-15T08:00:00-08:00

People always ask me for gift suggestions for their friends and family who enjoy baking. Have I got ideas! I love shopping for bakers – there are so many great tools, pans, books and toys to enjoy in the kitchen that I scarcely know where to begin. Of course there’s equipment, but baking and decorating classes are also a fun way to improve your skill and share the passion. Plus there’s all the incredible food stuff for bakers. Okay, I’ll just jump right in…

I have two favorite gifts this year…the first is my new book The Art and Soul of Baking (but you knew I was going to say that!). As one of the reviews said, “If you buy only one baking book this season, make it The Art and Soul of Baking.” It doesn’t get much better than that for a writer (or a baker)!

The second is my favorite new piece of equipment – the Beater Blade+, a paddle attachment for the KitchenAid mixer (the same company also makes a comparable attachment for the Cuisinart, Viking, and DeLonghi stand mixers). With a rubber edge that extends beyond the paddle, you’ll rarely have to stop the mixer and scrape down again! Why didn’t someone think of this before? I love it!

Gifts for the beginner:

An oven thermometer (the glass tube-style oven thermometer by Taylor is the best)
A digital scale
Good quality measuring spoons (and dry measuring cups if you don’t think they’ll use a scale) and a 2-cup liquid measuring cup
A KitchenAid stand mixer makes mixing easy and effortless
A set of standard-size basic baking pans, including two 9-inch cake pans, a cupcake pan (and cute liners), a 11 x 17-inch baking pan with ½-inch sides, a 9 by 13-inch pan, and a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan – all in sturdy aluminum, plus a 9-inch pie pan (Emile Henry clay pans are the most beautiful by far).
A set of wide, nesting stainless steel mixing bowls
Silicone spatulas – one mini, one medium and one large
Digital timer
Mini offset spatula
Parchment paper
Large, good quality rolling pin
Cooling rack
Digital instant-read thermometer
Citrus zester (also good for grating fresh ginger, chocolate and cheese!)
Oven mitts
Clear plastic ruler

For the bread baker:

A banneton or two (woven reed baskets for proofing bread)
Baking stone
Lame (razor blade in a handle for slashing the top of bread)
Pizza peel
A flour mill for grinding fresh flour at home

For the cake baker:

A cast iron heavy-duty decorating turntable
Gorgeous and fun NordicWare cake molds – I couldn’t resist the giant cupcake mold, and have a whole collection of the beautifully designed bundt pans
Cake cardboards and decorative presentation cardboards – these make life easier
Disposable pastry bags, both small and large
Interesting tips (such as the St. Honoré, which makes a beautiful ridged pattern)
Fun sprinkles, sparkling sugars, and luster dust colors
Gold and silver leaf for the ultimate bling for pastries
A class in cake decorating (or advanced decorating)
Cake or cupcake boxes for transporting the treats
Cake or cupcake pedestal – there are so many beautiful and creative ones available. Okay, I admit it, I had to buy 8 individual glass pedestals with matching cloches to hold each guests’ gorgeous cupcake for the finale to a special party – wow, it was stunning!

For the pie and laminated dough baker:

Large, natural bristle brush (4 to 5-inches) for removing flour easily and efficiently
Dough docker (or dough prickler) to quickly poke holes in the dough
Pastry board or slab of marble for keeping doughs cold during rolling
Metal or ceramic pie weights – enough to fill a deep pie shell to the top
Large, good-quality rolling pin, at least 15 inches in length
A pretty pie server, new or antique

For the cookie baker:

Extra baking sheets and cooling racks
A stack of parchment paper cut to the size of the baking sheets
Ice cream scoops (or dishers) in their favorite cookie sizes
Unusual and fun cookie cutters, mini to giant
Fun sprinkles and decorating sugars
An assortment of chocolate chips and candy or flavored chips

For the crème brulée or custard baker:

A propane torch with automatic ignition (yes, hardware store size), or an extra-powerful small butane torch that won’t run out in the middle of 8 brulées.
Shallow porcelain crème brulée dishes
Lovely custard cups or ramekins or ceramic pots de crème (little French pots with lids)
Chinois (very fine, conical sieve)

For the soufflé baker:

Tall individual soufflé dishes
A copper bowl (creates the most beautiful egg whites ever, hands-down)
Large balloon whisk (to help fluff those egg whites)

Foodstuffs:

Boyajian Flavoring Oils provide a pure, clean burst of flavor, whether it’s citrus or peppermint or more. I always have a stash of these on hand in various favorite flavors.

Chocolate – don’t get me started…how about a whole selection? We all have our favorites, and there are always more to explore.

Amadei dark chocolate bars are to die for – any of them. Guittard makes lovely chocolate (dark, milk and white) for the retail market in small rounds that don’t need chopping - and are great for chips in cookies!
Michel Cluizel dark chocolate is heavenly – love the 65% Mangaro
New Tree Renew (black currant- flavored) 73% dark chocolate bars – for nibbling
ScharffenBerger, especially the 70% - I like a piece of it after dinner alongside a few toasted almonds.
Valrhona Manjari (64%) is sublime – look for it in feves – rounds that are perfect for melting, so you don’t have to chop. Their Gianduia (hazelnut chocolate) is addictive.
Valrhona Crunchy Dark Chocolate Pearls – crunchy centers (like a cross between feuilletine and Rice Krispies) with 55% dark chocolate on the outside. For crunch between cake layers, as garnish on top of cakes and tarts, on top of ice cream, or straight into the mouth. Oh yeah.
And don’t forget the cocoa nibs! I eat them by the handful! If they’re around long enough, they make their way into cookies or sensuously delicious cocoa nib whipped cream.

Dulce de Leche: This thick caramel from Latin America is dreamy. Look for La Salmandra brand in specialty stores – and try to keep from eating it by the spoonful.

Preserves: Every baker loves meltingly delicious fruit preserves, even if it’s just on toast! June Taylor marmalades, Katz and Company jams, Frog Hollow Farm meyer lemon marmalade, Casa Giulia sour cherry or quince jam, Stonewall Kitchen wild Maine blueberry jam…I could go on forever.

Maple sugar: This granulated maple syrup is addictive! Use it as you would regular sugar for a burst of pure maple flavor. Or sprinkle it over cookies before baking. Or use it on oatmeal. Or line soufflé molds with it. Or…..

Sea salt: For the top of pretzels, dinner rolls, caramel tarts - heck, wherever you want a burst of clean salt flavor.

Star Kay White’s Pure Chocolate Extract: It’s been around over 100 years and for good reason - it adds a punch of chocolate flavor.

Vanilla Beans : Love them, can’t live without them, feel nervous if there aren’t 4 or 5 in the cupboard. Madagascar or Mexican beans are top quality, Tahitian are slightly different in look and flavor and are exquisitely floral (and quite pricey) – some of both, please.

Vanilla Extract or Paste: Always buy pure vanilla extract for top quality and flavor. Your efforts deserve the best, and we must support the vanilla farmers in third world tropical countries who work so hard to bring us this unique flavoring. Did you know each orchid flower needs to be hand-pollinated to develop a bean? And that’s just the beginning! Nielson Massey brand is excellent. Extract is thin, paste is thicker, sweeter and speckled with tiny vanilla seeds – either is good - they are equal in flavoring strength.

Tools of the Trade:

Holiday Bake Shop

Professional Baking Shop

Gingerbread Houses

2008-12-10T08:00:00-08:00

‘Tis the season for gingerbread houses of all sizes and shapes. Everything from mansions and log cabins to yurts and street scenes has been made out of gingerbread and embellished with fanciful candy and icing decorations. Ginger has been highly prized since ancient times - employed by Confucius as well as Greeks and Romans for its calming and digestive relief – but the blending of spices into decorative “cookies” became popular much later, during medieval times when elaborately decorated gingerbread was the snack of choice at faires throughout Europe.

Decorating gingerbread became an art form, and was so popular that Queen Elizabeth I had her own gingerbread baker to supply the royal family with these beautiful – and often gilded – treats. It was in Germany that the idea of building houses out of gingerbread originated. The fairy tale of Hansel and Gretel, in which two children happen upon a house built of gingerbread and sweets, was the impetus for creating elaborate structures and decorating them with icing, candies, and sugar.

Baking and building your own gingerbread house is a project that requires precision, patience, and time, and if you have the inclination to do it, it’s a worthwhile project for a weekend. Me? I like to get right to the fun stuff – decorating. Oh, I used to bake gingerbread houses, but ever since the arrival of pre-made gingerbread houses (and my daughter), I leave that to others. Truth be told, I’d rather invest my time and energy in other types of baking and holiday activities this time of year. The pre-fab gingerbread houses (available at Sur La Table and craft stores) let me and my daughter have all the fun of decorating – and over-decorating – without the time-consuming process of mixing, rolling, cutting, shaping, and building.

We set aside a night by the fire, I bake a gingerbread cake and make hot apple cider, put on some Christmas music, then we go to town on decorating. I make some royal icing with meringue powder and fill a couple of disposable piping bags with some of it, then set the rest aside to use as inspiration strikes. I also pick up some food coloring markers, which allow us to draw on the house and the decorations, such as outlining bricks or shingles, or writing our name on the mailbox. The gingerbread house kits sometimes come with candy, but I scour grocery stores, cake decorating stores and candy shops looking for fun and unusual candies to add to the house. I find candy rocks for the garden, little royal icing wreaths for the doors and windows, tiny candles, pine trees and all manner of fun details. A bit of royal icing acts as glue to attach them to the house or garden. The finished house goes on display, and it’s fun to see how my daughter’s creativity and artistic capabilities improve year by year. While you can save the houses in an airtight container, I prefer to take pictures and have one less thing to pack away. Besides, there’s always time for a new house next year.

Tools of the Trade:

Wilton® Ultimate Gingerbread House Kit

A Taste of Tradition – Sour Cherry Linzer Tart

2008-12-08T08:00:00-08:00

I love the fact that most Christmas baking is steeped in tradition, connecting us to generations of bakers around the world. Take, for example, the classic Austrian dessert called linzertorte, a spiced pastry with lattice-work top, cradling a filling of raspberry jam. It originated in the northern Austrian city of Linz, along the banks of the Danube River, many generations ago. The aromas of this tart while baking - a heady combination of nuts, spices and fruit - are enough to conjure snow drifts outside the window and ice skaters on a frozen pond, even here in California, which makes it a perfect celebratory ending for the holiday season.

The name linzertorte links this dessert to others with similar attributes, as tortes are a type of cake that have most or all of the flour replaced by ground nuts. True to form, the dough in the recipe below has a measure of ground nuts – both almonds and hazelnuts - along with the flour. The addition of cinnamon, cloves and citrus zest round out the Christmas flavors, right down to the red filling peeking through the lattice top. I think the presentation of linzertorte is prettiest when baked in a fluted, removable bottom tart shell, though I’ve used a cake pan in a pinch.

The classic filling is seedless raspberry jam (and there is a variation for this in the introduction of the recipe below), but I couldn’t leave well enough alone. I love dried sour cherries and think they are the perfect partner to the richly spiced tart dough, so I’ve come up with a fabulous filling that sends this recipe over the top. The presence of these chewy, sweet-tart cherries pumps up the flavor and gives this classic pastry a fun, modern twist that is irresistible.

If you add a bit of extra flour (about 3 tablespoons), the linzer tart dough can be used to make pretty window cookies for your entertaining and gift-giving. Roll the dough quite thinly – about 1/8-inch - and cut it into simple shapes, like circles or squares. Use a small, similarly-shaped cutter to cut a peek-a-boo window into half of the cookies. Be sure to bake the tops and bottoms of the sandwich cookies on separate pans because the cookies with holes in the center will bake more quickly. Once the cookies have cooled, spread a thin layer of seedless raspberry jam across the solid cookies, then dust the window cookies with powdered sugar before setting them atop the jam. These are easily the prettiest cookies on a holiday cookie platter (and the first to disappear). I have to give these away as soon as I make them; otherwise, I keep nibbling away at the stash until they are all gone.

More A Taste of Tradition ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Sour Cherry Linzer Tart

Makes 1 (9- or 9½-inch) tart, serving 8 to 10

A linzer tart is a lattice-topped Austrian specialty featuring a crust rich with butter, spices, and ground nuts enveloping a filling of raspberry jam. While a good-quality seedless raspberry jam would be delicious as the filling, you’ll love the way dried sour cherries add their bright, tart flavor to this modern take on the classic favorite. Feel free to substitute 1¼ cups raspberry jam for the filling if you’d like to make the traditional tart. Good any time of year, this dessert is especially welcome during the holidays, when the fragrance of cinnamon and cloves fills the house with the irresistible scent of winter baking.

Equipment: Stand Mixer Fitted with a Paddle Attachment or a Hand Mixer and a Medium Bowl, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade, Pastry Bag Fitted with a ³⁄8-inch Plain Round Tip, Small Saucepan, Fine-Mesh Strainer, Medium Bowl, Small Bowl, Whisk, Large Bowl, 9- or 9½-inch Fluted Tart Pan with a Removable Bottom, Cooling Rack, Large Metal Spatula (Optional)

Dough

1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, softened (65° to 68°F)
¾ cup (5¼ ounces) sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
¾ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon
1¹⁄³ cups (6½ ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
¹⁄³ cup (1½ ounces) whole natural almonds
¼ cup (1 ounce) whole hazelnuts
1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt

Filling

2 cups (16 ounces) cherry or berry juice
¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar
2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks
½ vanilla bean
1 cup (8 ounces) firmly packed dried sour cherries
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon water
Softly Whipped Cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving

Mix the dough: Place the butter and sugar in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat on medium speed until smooth and creamy looking, 2 to 3 minutes. You can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl, though you may need to beat the mixture a little longer to achieve the same results. Scrape down the bowl with a spatula. Add the egg and egg yolk and blend well. Scrape down the bowl again. Add the vanilla, orange zest, and lemon zest and blend well; scrape down the bowl once more.
Place the flour, almonds, hazelnuts, cinnamon, cloves, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of the food processor and process until the nuts are finely ground, about 45 seconds. Add to the butter mixture and blend on low just until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed.
Divide the dough: Split the dough into two portions, one slightly larger than the other. (The larger piece will line the tart pan, while the smaller portion will be piped in a lattice pattern over the top of the tart.) Wrap the larger portion in plastic and refrigerate for 30 to 45 minutes, until firm enough to press into the tart pan without it sticking to your hands. Spoon the smaller portion of dough into the pastry bag fitted with the ³⁄8-inch plain round tip and set aside at room temperature.
Make the filling: Combine the juice, sugar, and cinnamon sticks in the small saucepan. Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the pan, adding the pod as well. Add the dried cherries. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the cherries are plump and soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Pour the mixture through the fine-mesh strainer into the medium bowl. Return the juices to the saucepan and place the cherries in the medium bowl. Discard the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean pod. Bring the juices to a simmer. In the small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and water until smooth. Pour the cornstarch mixture into the simmering juice, whisking constantly. Cook until the liquid thickens, 30 to 60 seconds, then immediately pour over the cherries and stir to blend. Cool completely (to speed cooling, place the bowl of cherries in a larger bowl of ice and cold water and stir occasionally).
Press the larger portion of chilled dough evenly across the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan. Chill in the refrigerator or freezer for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°F and position an oven rack in the lower third.
Spread the cherry filling evenly in the chilled shell. Using the dough in the pastry bag, create an angled lattice: Pipe straight lines of dough about 1 inch apart across the surface of the filling. Then, pipe slanted lines of dough over the straight lines, crossing them at an angle to create a diamond pattern. (Note: You won’t need all the dough in the bag—you can roll and cut the leftover dough into shapes with a cookie cutter and make linzer cookies.)
Bake the tart for 40 to 45 minutes, until the filling is bubbling and the dough is nicely browned. Transfer to a cooling rack, making sure you hold the pan by the sides and not the bottom (remember, it’s a two-piece pan and can come apart!).
Place the tart pan on top of a large can from your pantry (the 28-ounce tomato cans are good) so that the bottom balances midair as the rim falls to the counter. Use the metal spatula to transfer the tart to a serving plate or simply leave the bottom of the tart pan under the tart for support. Serve warm or at room temperature with a spoonful of whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Storing: The linzer tart keeps, covered with plastic wrap, at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Allow the tart to come to room temperature before serving, or warm in a 350°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes.

Getting Ahead: The dough can be wrapped tightly and frozen for up to 6 weeks. You can also press the bottom layer of dough into the tart pan, double-wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and freeze for 1 month (freeze lattice dough separately). When you want to bake it, unwrap, add the filling, pipe the lattice (soften the dough quickly in the microwave on the defrost setting). Transfer directly to the preheated oven (add 3 to 4 minutes to the baking time). The cherry filling can be made up to 3 days in advance and kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

What the Pros Know: Grinding the nuts with the flour keeps the nuts from getting pasty or turning into nut butter. The flour absorbs the oils that are released when the nuts are ground fine, resulting in feathery nut pieces without oily residue. If you purchase ground nuts, simply skip this step and stir them into the other dry ingredients.

Tools of the Trade:

KitchenAid® Artisan Stand Mixers

Gifts From Bakers

2008-12-03T08:00:00-08:00

This is the season when handmade gifts are shared with abandon – it is truly a baker’s wonderland. It does my heart good to hear people in line at the supermarket or the coffee house discussing pie and cake recipes or exchanging cookie decorating tips. Whether it’s a plate of your signature cookies, a loaf of pumpkin bread, or a box of lovingly decorated cupcakes, gifts of food connect us all, kitchen by kitchen. In these uncertain economic times, simple gifts from hearth and home create a more meaningful holiday season.

Here are some ideas to get you started:

Cookies: A plate of freshly baked cookies is a delight during the holidays. Just one type of really good cookie is all you need to spread the joy. If you decide to give a selection of your favorites, keep a few points in mind. Keep all the cookies in separate containers until it’s time to assemble the platter, then deliver it shortly. This will keep the flavors and textures intact – prolonged contact will make crisp cookies soft, and soft cookies stale, and they’ll all start to taste like each other. I like to wrap the cookies individually in cellophane bags or vellum envelopes, then tuck them into a tin or container.

For a cookie gift that keeps on giving, I like to give frozen dough logs or scoops of cookie dough, to be enjoyed long after the last holiday package has been opened. I wrap slice-and-bake cookie logs in plastic, then in holiday paper. A good idea to help them keep their round shape is to tuck the logs into cardboard paper towel tubes, then wrap the tube. Be sure to attach a tag that gives the name of the cookies and baking instructions. For drop cookies (chocolate chip-style), I scoop the cookie dough using a small ice cream scoop, then freeze the dough balls and transfer them into ziptop freezer bags. When it’s time for gift-giving, I fill airtight tins or containers with the dough, and attach a tag with all the pertinent information. Just make sure it goes from your freezer to the recipient’s freezer in a timely manner. This is a great way to be remembered on a cold January night, when your friends pull warm cookies from the oven.

Here are some of my favorites from The Art and Soul of Baking:

Cookies for baking and giving: Almond and Chocolate Spritz Cookies, Raspberry Cherry Crumble Bars, Cappuccino Biscotti with Hazelnuts and Chocolate, Peanut Butter Thumbprints with Caramel Peanut Filling, and Mexican Chocolate Crackle Cookies.

And, of course, the classic Roll and Cut Sugar Cookies – for ideas on decorating, see the December issue of Food and Wine Magazine (bold December… Magazine), in which they are featured in an article on the best baking books of the season. The same article features my recipe for simple yet addictive Vanilla Crescents, one of my most requested recipes ever.

Cookies for freezing and giving: Chocolate Earl Grey Coins (recipe provided below), a comfortingly sophisticated slice and bake treat; Cherry Oatmeal Cookies; Chocolate Cocoa Nib Cookies, Chocolate Chip Cookies; and Sugar Cookie Pillows.

Pie Dough: If I’m making a big batch of pie dough, I’ll make some extra to give to friends who love to make pie, but won’t attempt a pie crust. I roll it out so it’s ready to go, dust it lightly with flour so it doesn’t stick to itself upon thawing, then fold it in half and set it inside a pie tin lined with a piece of parchment paper. I’ll layer 2 or 3 between rounds of parchment, then wrap the whole thing in plastic (or slip it into a ziptop freezer bag), and wrap with holiday paper. I attach a gift tag reminding them to let each round thaw completely before unfolding (or it will crack in half), and giving baking temperatures and times. All they have to do for pie is toss some fruit together for the filling.

Crumble or Crisp Topping: Fruit crumbles are so simple and delicious, I think everyone should have some topping in their freezer for a quick, satisfying dessert. Crumble topping can easily be made in a food processor or stand mixer, and it’s child’s play to whip up several batches. Freeze it in ziptop freezer bags, then transfer into airtight food safe containers for gift-giving, along with your favorite recipe using the topping.

Cakes: A moist and tender cake is a thoughtful way to let friends and colleagues know you care. Simple pound cakes and tea cakes can be enjoyed any time of day, and freeze beautifully. I love the beautiful brown and gold baking papers that Sur La Table carries for just such baking. They come in an array of sizes, from individual cupcakes to mini loaves to standard-size loaves, to large tube or panettone style loaves. Once the cakes have cooled, wrap in plastic or cellophane and tie with a coordinating ribbon or raffia.

Good choices from my book include: Double Vanilla Pound Cake, Spice Cake, Orange Cardamom Cake, Chocolate Velvet Pound Cake, and Pumpkin Spice Cake. From the quick bread chapter, try Cinnamon Streusel Sour Cream Coffeecake, Chocolate Banana Marble Bread or Pumpkin Walnut Bread. Any of these are excellent on their own, or top them with a bit of Chocolate Ganache or Confectioner’s Sugar Icing and fun sprinkles for a festive finish. They can also be baked in cupcake form for home, office or school parties.

One of my favorite “big” cakes for giving is the Almond, Apricot and Chocolate Chip Cake with Amaretto Glaze. I bake it in one of the gorgeous Nordic Ware bundt pans, then let the glaze drip down the sides. The almond paste in the batter ensures the cake stays moist for days (and it freezes beautifully for a month, which means I can get ahead on my gift baking). If you bake it ahead and freeze it, don’t glaze the cake – it gets splotchy upon thawing. Instead, let the cake(s) thaw completely before you add the chocolate glaze.

Other Kitchen Treats: Little jars of special treats are a welcome gift. I like to give Caramel Sauce, since most store bought caramel sauce is not caramelized sugar at all, but a combination of brown sugar and milk or cream. The real thing is rich and complex in flavor and light years beyond the others. If you don’t plan on heat processing the jars to seal them, be sure to attach a tag reminding the recipient to store it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for at least a month. Other fun treats are Sugared Flower Petals for decorating; and Candied Citrus Zest in sugar syrup for chopping and adding to doughs and batters or garnishing citrus desserts. Recipes for each of these can be found in the book.

Stymied on how to wrap your gift of food? Here are some ideas:

Make a paper cone from pretty wrapping paper or scrapbook paper – tape a piece of waxed paper inside before rolling the paper to protect it from butter stains.
Café au lait bowl tied with a ribbon
Pretty printed cupcake liners (standard-size or minis, depending on size of cookies) with a different type of cookie stacked inside each one, all inside a craft or candy box, lined up like chocolate bon bons.
Antique, thrift store or modern plates (for larger gift) or tea cup sets (for smaller gift) with cookies arranged on top or inside cup, then wrapped in clear cellophane.
Chinese to-go boxes decorated with pretty paper cut-outs or stickers or rubber stamps and wrapped with a beautiful ribbon.
Japanese bento box, with various cookies or candies in each wooden container inside the box.
Cellophane bags -- available at candy and craft stores -- tied with a pretty ribbon.
Cardboard or tin lunchbox with cookies arranged in rows inside or each type of cookie stored in separate cellophane bags or envelopes to keep flavors and textures intact.
Canning jars tied with a pretty ribbon.
Baking pans – either new or thrift shop – when packed in baking pans, the treats are a gift for now (to eat) and one for later (a pan to bake in).

More Gifts From Bakers ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Chocolate–Earl Grey Shortbread Coins

Makes about 36 cookies

Deeply chocolaty and delicately nubby from the texture of Earl Grey tea leaves, these are cookies for adults. Earl Grey, black tea flavored with bergamot oil (from a variety of bitter orange called bergamot), is an inspired match for dark chocolate. For the best flavor, use a top-quality bulk tea, which can often be purchased at your local coffee house. Serve the cookies with a cup of the tea—or any time you want a sophisticated cookie. Without tea leaves, they are a wonderful chocolate shortbread cookie that even children will love.

Equipment: Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Thin Knife, Baking Sheet, Parchment Paper, Cooling Rack

¼ cup (1¾ ounces) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (¼ ounce) good quality Earl Grey tea leaves
1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
¾ cup (3¾ ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons (¾ ounce) unsweetened cocoa powder, either Dutch-process or natural
¹⁄8 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sanding or decorator’s sugar (optional)

Place the granulated sugar and tea leaves in the bowl of the food processor and grind for 1 minute, or until the leaves are very finely chopped. Add the butter, flour, cocoa, and salt and process for about 45 seconds. Scrape down the bowl and break up any large clumps with the spatula. Process for another 15 to 30 seconds, until the dough looks uniformly dark and forms large, shaggy clumps. Dump the dough out onto a work surface and knead gently several times, just to bring it together.
Squeeze the dough into a log about 12 inches long and about 1 inch in diameter, and gently roll it back and forth until smooth. Don’t add flour if the dough is sticky—simply refrigerate the dough for 15 or 20 minutes to firm up the butter, then try again.
If you like, sprinkle the sanding sugar on the work surface alongside the log and gently roll the log in the sugar, turning to coat evenly. Cut a piece of plastic wrap several inches longer than the log and center the log at one long edge of the wrap. Roll the log into the wrap so it is tightly bound by the plastic. Twist the ends of the wrap to secure the log and help to create a rounded shape. You can use a cardboard paper towel roll to keep the roll of dough nicely rounded during storage. Just slit the cardboard lengthwise and slip the log inside it to help keep the rounded shape. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 300°F and position an oven rack in the center. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper.
Remove the cardboard and plastic wrap from the dough log and use a thin knife to slice it into ³⁄8-inch-thick rounds. Place about 18 cookies 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake, rotating the sheet halfway through the baking time, for 30 minutes, or until the cookies are cooked through and look dry on top. (It’s difficult to tell when dark chocolate cookies are done. This is when an oven thermometer and a timer are your best friends in the kitchen.) Transfer the cookies to a cooling rack and let them cool completely.

Storing: Keep the cooled cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Chocolate–Cocoa Nib Shortbread Cookies: Cocoa nibs are the cracked and roasted interior of cocoa beans—chocolate before it becomes chocolate. They are bitter (think coffee beans) and deeply flavored—and divine in this grown-up cookie. Omit the tea and make the dough as directed. Add an additional 2 tablespoons of flour to the dough (for a total of 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons, or 4¼ ounces). When the dough has finished mixing, add ¼ cup (1 ounce) roasted cocoa nibs to the processor and pulse 4 or 5 times to mix into the dough. Shape and bake as directed.

Tools of the Trade:

Holiday Bake Shop

Cookies, Cookies, Cookies

2008-12-01T08:00:00-08:00

Cookies make the world go around – it’s amazing how a simple sweet can create so much happiness. And they make such great gifts that I spend a lot of time each holiday season baking my favorites to share with friends and family. When it comes to the fancy decorated cookies, though, I believe in a group effort. Thus has evolved my annual cookie-decorating and holiday party. It’s a great way to bring family and friends together and make cookies at the same time. Everyone has more fun at a party when there is a project that gets conversations flowing. Hosting a cookie decorating party is not difficult, and I’ve developed a plan over the years to help it all run smoothly. The key is organization.

Here are some tips to help you have fun:

Make the cookie dough in advance. I usually make the dough over Thanksgiving weekend. I always make two kinds of dough – sugar cookie dough (recipe below) and gingerbread cookie dough, but one type of dough is certainly enough. I usually triple or quadruple the recipe below so I have plenty of cookies on hand, but even a double batch will yield enough cookies for a small party.
Roll out the cookie dough as soon as you make it. This is when the dough is easiest to roll, though if you find it difficult and sticky, you may want to chill the dough for 20 minutes or so. Roll the portions out between two sheets of parchment paper, following the directions in the recipe below, to 1/8-inch thick, and about the size of a baking sheet. I stack the rolled-out dough portions (still between parchment) on a baking sheet. Then I wrap the whole baking sheet in plastic wrap several times and stash it in the freezer until baking day.
Bake the cookies the day before the party. Once the oven is preheated, I choose the cutters, remove the dough from the freezer and let it defrost on the counter for 5 to 10 minutes, until still cold, but not frozen hard. Cut out the shapes you want, placing the cutters as close together as possible, then carefully transfer the shapes to parchment-lined baking sheets and bake until light golden brown. Remember to bake similarly-sized cookies on the same pan – if you have very large or very small cookies, bake them on separate sheets.
Once the cookies have cooled, stack them up according to shapes on a baking sheet lined with parchment, then wrap the entire sheet several times with plastic wrap to keep the cookies airtight and fresh.
Make the frosting the day before the party. I like to use meringue powder for the icing, and whip up great mounds of it. Then I separate it into bowls and add food coloring.
Use disposable piping bags secured with twist ties for decorating. Once the frosting is done, spoon it into disposable piping bags until they are 2/3 full, then twist the ends tightly, and secure them with a twist tie (available in the produce section at the supermarket). This will prevent icing from coming out the back end of the bag while your friends and family are piping their masterpieces. I always have several bags of each color – especially the popular colors – so guests aren’t waiting around for someone else to finish.
I put a selection of colored frosting-filled pastry bags into a large bowl at several points around the table, and cover their ends with a wet, wrung-out kitchen towel. Once the ends of the bags are cut and the decorating begins, you want to keep the cut ends moist, or the frosting will harden there. Let everyone know that when they are finished with a color, they should put the frosting back into the bowl with the tip of the bag under the damp towel.
Buy a selection of fun garnishes, like colored sprinkles and sanding sugars, silver dragées, colored candies, and anything else that strikes your fancy. Make a couple of small bowls of each kind to spread around the table(s). You can also use paper cupcake liners to hold these decorations.
Put out a selection of toothpicks, new paintbrushes (kid-size), and mini offset spatulas so those who want to spread things around can do so easily.
I put holiday-themed plastic tablecloths on any surface that might be used as a work area, so clean-up is a breeze. A roll of paper towels and 2 or 3 wet and wrung-out kitchen towels on each table make it easy to clean up sticky hands or spills.
I buy large paper plates, and each guest writes their name on the rim of the plate. They use the plate to choose their cookies and decorate them. If they want to decorate even more cookies, they simply get another plate. This eliminates any “hey, that’s MY cookie” discussions at the end of the evening.
Have something simple to eat so everyone doesn’t fill up on sugar – I usually make a hearty soup or stew and serve it with some good bread.
Have a roll of plastic wrap or a box of ziptop bags at the ready as guests go home. Wrap each plate tightly, or slip it into a ziptop bag so the cookies don’t end up on the seat of the car or someone’s clothing.

I started the tradition of this party for the kids, but have been pleasantly surprised over the years to see just how much the adults love the decorating. The kids decorate a few cookies then move on to playing in another room. It’s the adults who really get into the decorating, and allow their creativity to shine. Sitting around a big table sharing stories, food, and cookie decorations is one of the best ways I can think of to celebrate the season.

More Cookies, Cookies, Cookies ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Classic Sugar Cookies

Makes 40 to 50 cookies

Here’s a deliciously crisp and tender sugar cookie that can assume many shapes and be served as is, or sandwiched with jam, chocolate, or your favorite filling. The cookies also make a great canvas for decorating at holiday times.

Equipment: Stand Mixer Fitted with a Paddle Attachment or a Hand Mixer and a Medium Bowl, Small Bowl, Whisk, Parchment Paper, Rolling Pin, Three Baking Sheets, Cookie Cutters, Fine-Mesh Strainer, Cooling Rack

2¼ cups (11¼ ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup (5¼ ounces) plus 2 tablespoons sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
2 sticks (8 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Place the flour, ¾ cup of the sugar, and the salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat on low speed for 15 seconds, just to blend the ingredients. You can also use a handmixer and a medium bowl, though it may take a little longer to achieve the same results. Add the butter and mix on low until the butter is broken into tiny pieces, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the mixer to medium-low and mix until the mixture forms small clumps about the size of peas, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
In the small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and vanilla. Add the egg mixture to the butter mixture and blend on medium-low until the dough comes together to form several large clumps. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead several times, just to bring it together. Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a disk about ½ inch thick. Wrap the disks in plastic and refrigerate for about 30 minutes, or until cold but still pliable.
Place one disk of dough between two sheets of parchment or waxed paper and roll ¹⁄8 inch thick. If the dough cracks when you start to roll, it may be too cold. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then try again—this dough rolls most easily when it is at cool room temperature. As you roll, the parchment will wrinkle, especially on the bottom. When this happens, peel off the top parchment paper, smooth out any wrinkles, and place it back on the dough. Flip the dough over and repeat with the paper on the other side. You may need to do this several times during the rolling process. Note: The dough may also be rolled out on a lightly floured work surface, but be sure to brush any excess flour from the top and bottom of the dough before chilling and baking (the parchment method is easier and cleaner). Place the rolled-out dough, with the parchment still attached, on a baking sheet and transfer to the refrigerator to chill for 30 minutes. Repeat with the remaining disk of dough.
Remove the parchment from top and bottom of one piece of rolled out dough and place the dough on your work surface. Line the baking sheet with new parchment paper. Use cookie cutters to cut the dough into desired shapes and transfer to the parchment lined sheet, spacing the cookies about 1½ inches apart. Stack the cookies on the sheet pan with a piece of parchment paper between each layer. Scraps of dough can be gently kneaded and then rerolled, but the more they are rerolled, the less tender the cookies, so strategically place your cookie cutters to leave as few scraps as possible. Repeat with the remaining sheet of dough. Chill the cut shapes while the oven preheats.
Preheat the oven to 375°F and position an oven rack in the center. Sprinkle the cookies on each baking sheet with some of the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar (you may not use it all) just before they go into the oven. Bake one pan at a time, rotating the sheet about halfway through, for 10 to 13 minutes, until light golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining cookie shapes. Decorate the cookies as desired or leave them plain and simple.

Storing: The cookies can be stored in an airtight container, layered between sheets of parchment or waxed paper, at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Getting Ahead: At the end of Step 2, the dough can be wrapped airtight and chilled for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 2 months. You may find it even more convenient to chill or freeze the cutout dough at the end of Step 4, wrapping the entire baking sheet. There is no need to thaw the frozen shapes before baking—simply add a minute or two to the baking time.

Tools of the Trade:

Holiday Bake Shop