The Aspiring Gardener

Yellow Archangel Plant

2014-05-24T10:19:00.001-07:00

How invasive a plant is depends on the situation in which it is planted. I was given a snippet of Yellow Archangel, Lamiastrum galeobdolon, by a gardening friend a few years back, and did not know about its reputation in my state. Because I planted it under a large fir, where the soil is quite dry, I have easily kept it under control. Like most plants in this family (mint, nettle), moisture will greatly increase growth rate. I will need to keep a very special eye on this plant now that I know more about its invasive habit in my region. I am good about managing my plants, but I have seen a few of them which were not listed as invasive, escape to the edge of my woods. I then have to weigh the impact this plant might have on the environment. Not all alien plants are problematic, it is where and how they spread that makes the difference. Here in Oregon, Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, has long been a resident. It is a European transplant that colonizes in waste areas, and open clear-cuts. Being a biennial, it does not develop extensive root systems, but reseeds each year. Because it is such a delightful plant, we all seem to look the other way. Maybe it is because it does not disrupt the opportunistic native trees and shrubs that commonly inhabit these cleared areas. Some alien plants cause problems when they cross-pollinate with like species, and change their characteristics. Fortunately, one such chameleon, columbine, has not muddied the bright orange color, tall stature of our native columbine, Aquilegia canadensis. Evidently, these plants must be in close range for real problems to occur. The days of planting at will are no longer, and each of us must calculate the environmental effects of the plants we choose for our landscape. Since I am in a rural setting, it is even more important that I garden responsibly. This is another strong point for growing native plants - I do not need to worry about their impact, I can just enjoy them.

Bergenia a Great Perennial Plant

2014-04-18T08:01:00.001-07:00

I consider the most worthy perennial plants to be those that return reliably each year without difficulty. Bergenia is one of those plants that will either stir interest, or opposition at first sight. With its large elephant ear foliage it can look out of place in some groupings, or it can create architectural interest. This variety - Bergenia 'Bressingham Ruby,' has burgundy tinged foliage, which becomes more vivid in the fall, and has much more intense pink blossoms than others in its group. I appreciate the flower intensity because the blooms appear in early spring when less color is available in parts of my woodland garden. I can allow it to spread by rhizomes, or break off the extensions and transplant them elsewhere. I cannot remember fertilizing this plant, and when the leaves become tattered I just pull them off, and new ones come along behind them. Other varieties exist that have pale pink, white and red flowers, as well as other shapes and colors of foliage. If bergenia does not appeal, so be it, but for a tough easy interesting perennial, this plant is hard to beat.

Gardening Like Nature

2014-02-04T08:17:00.000-08:00

We all live and garden in different parts of the world, and allowing nature to give us clues on what to plant will insure a more natural looking garden, as well as a healthier environment for area wildlife. This picture is not in my back yard, but is a very short drive from me, and reveals this type of scenery natural to the area. I live near the forest, and have tried to design my garden to fit into the overall landscape around me. Fighting moss, or trying to create a tropical paradise goes against the grain. By using more native plants, I can enhance the habitats of the wildlife I co-habitat with. Even gardens that are in a more urban setting, are still situated within a larger environment. Seek out what is living around you, or what did thrive at one time, and plant with this in mind. Bees, butterflies and birds are part of every type of garden setting. I read recently that hummingbirds have been forced to fly further for nectar flowers due to development, and that the little oasis's we create for them could mean survival as they move onto their destinations. Never underestimate the effect your garden can have on the big picture.

Hawthorne Trees

2014-01-12T11:16:00.001-08:00

Some trees catch our attention, and a hawthorne tree covered in red berries can be a delight to see. Unfortunately, at least one species, Single Seed Hawthorne, Craetagus monogyna, is very invasive in my region, and other areas along the West Coast. I am continually forced to pull seedlings from my woods, in my own attempt to control an outbreak. Birds love the berries, and will drop seeds far from the initial fruiting tree. This is a warning to research carefully any non-native berry producing plant we add to our landscapes. The only safe native hawthorne I am familiar with is the Douglas or Black Hawthorne, Crataegus douglasii. This small native tree is a better choice for my region, and the berries are just as loved by birds. My philosophy about plants that are invasive, or otherwise not suited to my garden, is that there is always another plant to take its place.

Tough Little Boxwood

2013-12-24T05:57:00.000-08:00

I have a very natural looking garden, but popping up out of my herb garden are formal rounded Dwarf Boxwood, Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa.' This is one of those plant names worth paying attention to, since the common box, Buxus Sempervirens, is too large to fashion onto little balls, and keep them that way. I am picky about topiary shapes, and only like a few, and I do not care much for oversize shrubs shaped into squares and balls just to keep them small. A planned topiary starts with the right sized plant, and is trimmed on a regular basis to keep its form, rather than be forced later. This little plant is easily kept under a foot tall and wide, with only minor shearing through the summer months. When the herbs die back, the boxwood provide little dots of greenery, and then disappear into the lush foliage in summer. This common shrub proves its worth during cold weather, holding onto its foliage as if nothing has changed in its environment. This is also the same plant that does so nicely as a small one to two foot hedge around herbs and perennials.

The Fabulous White Birch

2013-11-16T08:07:00.002-08:00

Little to say about this shot - other than "Wow." Color, and the absence of color together, can really pop. The blue sky is either there or not, and the seasons are set - but the white bark of the birch tree will compliment year round. It is true that some birch species produce much whiter bark than others, and some remain tan or gray in color until they reach maturity. Colder climates can also produce better bark color. These trees are narrow but tall, so providing there are no over-head limitations, such as power lines, they can fit into most landscape situations. They can compliment a tall structure without requiring much horizontal space.

Hummingbirds in Fall and Winter

2013-10-02T05:43:00.002-07:00

Anna's Hummingbirds and Fuchsia magellanica

Wildlife can breeze through the garden unnoticed, unless there is something that will cause them to linger. By staging blooms throughout the growing season, it is simple to draw and retain hummingbirds all summer. I love the buzzing, zooming and hovering activity that goes on non-stop from April to September. It is a somber moment for me when it all but stops, weeks before the first frost. Migrating hummingbirds need a head start to get to their wintering destinations. In my region, the most common migrators are the Rufus hummingbirds, which monopolize my feeders and flowers for months. The Anna's hummingbirds are more docile, but stick around waiting for a clear moment to sip from the nectar feeders. Fortunately there are abundant flowers in August, because the hummer's must fight the black hornets at the nectar feeders, causing me to pull them for a couple of weeks to break the cycle. My hardy fuchsia's, Fuchsia magellanica, bloom until the first freeze, making them the most popular fall nectar plant. After the rufus hummingbirds move on, I watch to see if any Anna's hummingbirds have chosen my garden for winter. There may not be many, but those that stay will rely on my nectar feeders to sustain them during cold weather. I have also included winter blooming plants such as Sweet Box, Sarcococca confusa, to provide natural nectar. During freezing weather, I change the nectar often, since the birds are depending on them each day. It would be better to allow them to move on, unless I am committed to follow through until spring. To me, there is nothing like hearing that familiar buzz from my porch when the garden is asleep, and there is little other activity.

Chickens Eating Blueberries

2013-08-02T07:43:00.004-07:00

Bella the Austrolorp chicken eating blueberries

It is amazing how we can become attached to our feathered friends. I have been sharing my blueberry bushes with robins for years, but I also seemed to retain a few for myself. I had resolved to pick the nearly ripe berries, while the birds seemed to get the sweet juicy ones before I even rose in the morning. I thought maybe this year I would cover part of my bushes with bird netting, so I could let some of the berries sweeten on the bush. I did not cover them, and a new group of visitors have claimed anything at the lower level. I was not too worried about my chickens, since the bushes are tall, and chickens remain low to the ground, but they seem to be jumping even higher, and have no qualms eating green or red berries. Other year-round birds such as the Black Headed Chickadee have had their share too. I saw one hanging upside down on a cluster of berries, having a feast. So it is settled - these berry bushes are for grazing, entertainment, and for the birds. I will need to plant a row of blueberries elsewhere, and enclose them in a wire cage if any are to make it to the freezer.

Butterflies and Shrubs

2013-07-17T07:51:00.005-07:00

Garden trends come and go, but planting to attract butterflies continues to be a common goal for many gardeners. When asked which of my plants attract the most, I immediately think of wildflowers such as Purple Coneflower, Echinacea purpurea, and Gayfeather, Liatris spicata, but flowering shrubs will also attract butterflies during the summer months. The extremely sweet scented Waxleaf Privet, Ligustrum japonicum, has been drawing the Western Tiger Swallowtail, Papilio rutulus, to my garden each day while in bloom. I can understand why, since I too have to stop and take in its fragrance each time I pass by. It has a tropical scent worthy of use in aromatherapy - I know it definitely boosts my well being. I originally saw this plant trained up a trellis at a nursery for a premium price, so I bought an inexpensive gallon sized plant and found it very easy to grow and shape. It will still bloom on a trellis, but my full sized privet shrub produces the most flowers. Those I have planted in shadier spots do not bloom as well, but will still provide an evergreen presence year-round. Most gardeners are not even aware of evergreen privet, since it is historically used as a hedge plant, in which the bloom wood is sheared away, and the leaves lopped in half. Of course there are other shrubs such as the legendary Butterfly Bush, Buddleja davidii, which draw the smaller, but still precious, orange butterflies by the numbers. The buddleja species, along with many varietal forms, have been placed on the invasive species list in my region, so it is wise to look beyond them. I have been trying to justify the purpose of my hydrangea bushes, other than for aesthetics, and I can say that butterflies seem to enjoy them as well. It has become increasingly important that the plants we grow have a dual purpose, since so much of the habitat needed by beneficial insects has been disturbed.

Western Swallowtail, Papilio rutulus, on Ligustrum japonicum

Make the Most of Small Garden Areas

2013-06-28T08:50:00.003-07:00

I like a challenge. This rock retaining wall replaced a bulging wood one, and we wanted the area to look good, as well as function. The wall was back-filled with gravel, and mixed with remnants of mortar used to hold the wall together. Digging down through these hard materials to plant vines was a challenge. I knew that the soil conditions created by the leaching concrete would be ongoing, and any plants would need to survive this alkaline environment. Containers were an obvious choice, since I can control the soil completely. I like the look of pottery, so I chose large thick- walled pots that could support shrubs, require less water, and not crack in freezing conditions. This site is very visible, and a high foot traffic area. It is next to a walking path, which goes from the front yard to the back, and it is in between the house and the studio. It really needs to look good year-round. I had always liked Heavenly Bamboo, Nandina domestica, but it did not fit into my woodland garden. I thought that sequestering it to this isolated space, was a good way to benefit front its excellent characteristics. The common nandina tolerates quite a bit of sun, though many of the wider leaved, dwarf varieties do not. I also chose nandina for its brilliant fall color, ornamental red berries, and spectacular new growth. A plant I would not turn loose in my garden beds is the Yellow Creeping Jenny, Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea, ' but this wall position allows me to enjoy its popping color, without fear of losing control due its invasive behavior. It is more than happy to scamper over gravel and receive complete neglect.
I had one failure - the Crossvine, Bignonia. I intended to train it up a trellis, but it struggled with the soil PH, and looked yellow and chlorotic in no time, so I moved it elswhere. I replaced it with Star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasmonoides, which is a hardy evergreen in my USDA zone 8 garden. Though not a true jasmine, it provides wonderful fragrance in summer, and has attractive foliage all year long. In the center, I placed one of my favorite vines, Five-Leaf Akebia, Akebia quinata, which retains most of its leaves in winter, as well as providing scented purple flowers in spring, and with any luck, edible fruit. When an area is small, I focus on year-round foliage and structure first, and flowers and fruit second. This site allowed me to play with colors and plants that were too bold for widespread use, or needed a bit more control - and it is always good to stretch our tastes a bit.

Star Jasmine

Star Jasmine in bloom

Akebia quinata in flower and fruit

2013-06-05T15:07:00.001-07:00

Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, is a common roadside wildflower in the Pacific Northwest. It is a European species that has naturalized in many parts of the country, but no one seems to mind. There are even those who might argue its point of origin, as if somehow an exception must be made, and foxglove should just be grandfathered into North America. You will find foxglove growing along roadsides, or colonizing in forest clear-cut areas where beautification is a plus. Because it is a biennial, it never forms a thick root system that might crowd out native plant populations. Biennials develop a leafy clump the first year, and a flower stock the second. If the flower is allowed to fade, and seeds to ripen, the cycle will continue again, though not always in the same spot. I have retained digitalis in my garden for years from a single clump. I often find the little seedlings growing in my gravel path each spring, so I lift them with a butter knife, and transplant them to safety. It is hard not to love a beautiful flower that also draws beneficial life to the garden. Hummingbirds can effortlessly sip nectar from the cup-like blossoms, and bumblebees can fly right inside for nourishment. If foxglove does have any bad habits, I prefer to blissfully remain in denial.

Native Orchids and Critical Habitat

2013-05-15T08:09:00.001-07:00

If you love native wildflowers like I do, timing is everything. The early ones seem to be blooming sooner this year, and the orchids, being very delicate, have a short flowering period. The Fairy Slipper Orchid, Calypso bulbosa, that grows in my woods, only blooms for a couple of weeks each spring, and the unusually warm days have already begun sending them the other direction. This week, the Coral Root Orchids, Corallorhiza maculata, have fully opened, and they may hold on longer due to their sturdy stems. Once I see the pointed red stems emerge, I watch each day for the perfect time to photograph them while they are fresh. This will be a yearly routine, now that I know the approximate time and location for each orchid. I enjoy watching them expand each year, and am careful not to alter their habitat. I have lived on this property for 20 years, and these wildflowers have only begun to appear in the last three years. It is evident by the growth pattern, that the seeds must lay dormant for just the right conditions, rather than being planted by birds, or other mechanical means. Once a patch sets seed, the wind carries them a short distance, so they have now developed into swathes. We are careful to mark the areas, and keep to the defined paths, so we will not compact the soil where they grow. Once conditions are right for the more rare wildflowers, the best thing to do is nothing. They require just the right amount of light, at just the right time of day to thrive. The soil and moisture level is critical too, and even the most seasoned gardeners and naturalists have been unsuccessful in mimicking these conditions. Taking out one tree can forever change their habitat, and cause the demise of delicate wildflowers, especially the Fairy and Slipper Orchids. The Coral Root Orchids seem to require a bit more sun, and though they are tougher, are not found everywhere, suggesting they too are very picky about where they land. I know they require a specific type of fungi to survive, which narrows their eco-system down even more, and partly why just creating the right conditions is not enough. There is so much we do not know about soil organisms, but that they are critical to the health of native plants in a region. I am grateful I can enjoy these wildflowers up close, and will do my small part in ensuring their survival for years to come.

Hellebores Cross Naturally

2013-04-19T12:04:00.001-07:00

Hellebore Offspring Between 'White Lady', and Abchasicus.

Hellebores, Helleborus orientalis, are notorious for cross-pollinating, meaning that the seedlings may exhibit completely different characteristics than the parent plant. Fortunately the original plant will remain the same color as when it was purchased, so it is important to choose them in bloom. I came across this offspring of Helleborus orientalis

Helleborus orientalis Abchasicus

Helleborus orientalis 'White Lady'
in my garden, and it was easy to see where the deeper color came from. Not far away I had a dark purple hellebore, Helleborus orientalis Abchasicus, and this multi-colored new seedling was right between them. It is not always that simple, since many of us have a wide range of hellebore varieties in our gardens. H. orientalis can be found in every shade of lavender, purple, and pink, and can be blended with white, be solid or even speckled. Some are prolific seeders, while others never produce seeds at all. There are also those with single, double and even ruffled petals, so the possibilities are endless. If I did not want to give my hellebores this freedom, I could place them further away from one another, but then I may not see any seedlings at all. Some hellebore species, such as the green flowered specimens, Stinking Hellebore, Helleborus foetidus, and Corsican Hellebore, Helleborus argutifolia, never cross-pollinate, and remain unchanged in the garden.

Early Spring Color in Nature

2013-03-13T10:19:00.000-07:00

Native willow and dogwood are known for their colorful twigs.

Fall is not the only season in which the twigs of trees and shrubs show their color. Early spring is a time of new growth, and it is evident at the tips of woody plants, among native species, as well as varieties within the domestic landscape. The key is to really look at all of the parts of every plant, rather than ignore them until they display foliage and flowers. After all, where would the beauty be in a "Pussy Willow," if we missed the seed-pods, and waited until the leaves covered them up in summer. When designing a garden, I take my cues from the natural landscape. Plants are rarely lined up in rows, though it is common to find in them in swathes or clumps. I cannot resist trimming dead twigs, and spent foliage, when cleaning up my garden in spring, but I am careful to retain the natural form of my plants. I favor cutting back select branches and twigs, rather than trimming back the whole plant in a unnatural round or square shape, and when possible, I enjoy the color of the natural twigs for awhile before lopping them off.

The Mystery of Jasmine

2013-02-12T08:06:00.001-08:00

Star Jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides

Some plants can be difficult to grow in certain regions, even when the hardiness zone is within safe limits. Some reasons have to do with sudden temperature changes, or too much moisture. True jasmine plants fall into this category in my area. Many choose to plant Star Jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides, which is not a true jasmine at all, but resembles one in scent and appearance. It has thick, glossy, green leaves, and very fragrant white flowers. My star jasmine is growing up a trellis, but I know many gardener's whom have used it as a tall, loose, ground-cover. The consensus is that in the early stages these plants can succumb to odd weather conditions, but being hardy to zone 8, will thrive once they have settled in. I have lost two one gallon plants over the years, but presently have two that are doing just fine, and have returned now for the third year. This is a plant that rates very high in fragrance, and will exude its perfume all summer, for a great distance. One plant that is misrepresented in nurseries is Jasminum polyanthum, it has delicate finely cut foliage, and pale pink, very fragrant flowers. It will appear in early spring, sold in containers, with a wooden dowel for support. The listed zone often misleads gardener's into believing it will thrive outdoors in cool regions year-round, but time and time again these expensive plants are lost. In reality, it cannot tolerate even a slight freeze, so it must be brought indoors during the coldest months, and then back outside for summer. I have one that has survived the last two years by doing this. This plant, along with Jasminum 'Stephanese,' have a better chance in a zone 9 or warmer regions. There are gardens in my area that no doubt have just the right micro-climate to get away with growing them, but this is not the norm. I also have Winter Jasmine, Jasminum nudifolium, a hardy yellow flowering jasmine, which in my opinion, looks more like a broom, and has no scent at all, but grows effortlessly without water or fertilizer, and does provide color in winter. It is fun to experiment and stretch zonal boundaries, but it is always nice to know the risks up front.

Blueberry Shrub in Winter

2013-01-29T09:23:00.004-08:00

Photo opportunities are few and far between in the winter garden, when the sun is scarce, and plants are in their dormant state. But there are always subtle signs that more is going on in the warmer depths of the soil. This blueberry continues to change colors as it gets colder, and the roots are storing energy for the early spring growth spurt not much more than a month away. This is why fall is such a great time to fertilize woody plants. It is important for many fruiting shrubs and trees to go through a chilling period to be productive, so though I may not always like this still period in my garden, I know it is a vital period for my high-bush blueberries. Fortunately, some of the low-bush species can thrive in warmer regions of the country, as well as higher altitudes. The bright red and green twigs stand out right now, and I appreciate their colorful presence outside my window. I also enjoy the spent hydrangea, which I will wait to prune until early spring. In my region, plants such as hardy fuchsia, lavender, hydrangea, Crape Myrtle, as well as many of my roses, continue to bloom until October. I cannot bear to cut them back with flowers still on them, so I wait until it warms up in spring, and prune just before the new growth appears. I never prune my woody plants during winter, because it can stress them out, and the new cuts are more vulnerable to early spring fungal infections and twig dieback.

Extra Protection for Chickens

2012-12-15T13:38:00.000-08:00

"Lovelace" R.I.P

Our chicken project continues, though it is not yet complete. My flock is just nearing 2 years of age, and until recently were all intact. Since there are so many places to hide, and numerous shrubs and trees in my garden, these savvy birds had remained free much of the summer. I had been able to let them out in the morning, and lock them in at night, but since a Red Tailed Hawk devoured one of my favorite hens, I have once again had to sequester them. This was not the first attempt, but we had not seen the hawk for a while, and we are always looking out for predators. In the summer, there is almost always someone outside, so that was why we had gotten lucky, but as food is scarce in winter, predators get hungry. One day this hawk attempted to take a chicken just 10 feet away from us, and what could we really do to stop such a powerful bird. Fortunately, the coop is like a fortress, and the existing outdoor yard is very secure, but for the amount of chickens we have, we knew we needed to expand. The guys felt sorry for me, hearing me whimpering about the loss of my little hen, so they got the extra yard done in two days. The posts had been set during the summer, so they built the roof line, and stretched the wire. We plan to cover the first yard, and the adjoining buildings with a tin roof, but will probably leave this new yard with its wired roof, since chickens love to lay in the sun. Hopefully the hawk will go away, and I can let my girls out again with supervision, but for now they are safe and sound in their new run.

2012-11-14T08:55:00.002-08:00

I am very happy with my first attempt to grow garlic. I had planted a small patch a few years ago, but the bulbs were eaten. Now that I have a fenced vegetable garden, I am trying to establish more perennial edibles. This year I added rhubarb and ground cherries as well. Even though I need to dig, dry, and re-plant the garlic, it stays in the ground through winter in my region. I recently cooked lasagna, garlic bread, and made a pesto dressing with my softneck "St. Helens Red," garlic. I had expected a mild flavor, due to the temperate climate in the Northwest, but it had a wonderful strong flavor. I had also planted some of the white garlic I bought at the store out of curiosity, and though I have no Idea what variety it is, it grew very well too. I also planted "Oregon Blue," which is another softneck garlic, and it developed very small heads. Evidently each variety can improve over time as it adjusts to a new soil and climate type. I did re-plant it once again to find out what the second year would bring, and I will taste it before making a decision on whether to include it each year or not. I struggled to find "Italian Purple" garlic last fall, since it appears to be one of the more popular gourmet garlics right now, but finally found it at a farm stand, and was able to taste it, as well as buy a few heads to plant. This garlic grew very well for me, and the heads looked better than anything I could buy. Italian Purple is a hardneck variety that appears to be mild and soft when roasted, so it is ideal to spread on bread, or in dishes where a lot of garlic is required for texture. I was confused about the differences between softneck and hardneck garlic, and am still evaluating the differences, but one thing I did learn is that they grow a bit different. The hardneck produces a tall shoot with a typical allium flower head, and the softneck stock just dries up when the garlic is ready. All in all, due to the minor effort involved, and the amount of bounty I was able to harvest, I will definitely grow my own garlic each year.

Colorful Dogwood Twigs in Fall and Winter

2012-11-11T13:31:00.000-08:00

Blacktwig Dogwood

Red twig dogwoods provide exceptional bark color during fall and winter. They have typical dogwood foliage, so they are ordinary throughout summer, but do provide yellow leaf color in early fall. There are some exceptions, I have come to love the Blacktwig Dogwood, Cornus alba kesselringii, for its red to burgundy fall foliage. The twigs also turn burgundy rather than black when the weather turns cold. Aside from the color variations, all dogwood shrubs have similar growth patterns and cultural needs. Native to my region is the Red Osier Dogwood, Cornus sericea (stolonifera), which develops red bark, though not as intense as some of the varietal forms found in nurseries. This shrub needs very little care, but the leaves do suffer wilt without additional summer water. In their natural habitat they thrive in wetland areas, and the white berries are a favorite food for visiting birds. The biggest drawback to growing these carefree shrubs, is their habit of spreading by underground stolons, and developing into groves. I took this picture to demonstrate how nice the twigs can dress up a common ditch. So in summary, dogwood shrubs are a remarkable addition to any landscape during fall and winter, providing they are given space to spread out and be what they were intended to be, a very tall ground-cover.

Native Plants Versus Progress

2012-10-26T15:53:00.001-07:00

I could not resist taking this picture to highlight the contradiction between the tree branches, and wires. More often, I see mature trees lopped off at the top, and left to slowly deteriorate from the top down. When a conifer crown invades overhead power lines, complete removal of some species is more humane. This Pacific Madrone, Arbutus menziesii, is proof that there are native plants can learn to thrive if not overtake when they come under interference by man. Pacific Madrone is a native broadleaved evergreen, that is both strong and draught tolerant once established. It can be thinned, or shaped, rather then chopped off at the crown. On the other hand, this tree only grows in swathes where the conditions are ideal, so it is worth preserving a mature specimen. For city trees to be spared mutilation, it usually requires a homeowner or concerned citizen to make a request to city tree trimmers to leave the branches intact, or at least trim with discretion. In most cases, when no one speaks up, good trees are maimed and butchered for the sake of time. I realize this scene is not perfect, but I still had to admire the sheer will of this incredible native tree.

Native Fall Berries

2012-10-17T10:57:00.004-07:00

Even though the foliage is tattered, the bright red berries of False Solomon's Seal, Smilacina racemosa is a welcome sight in late summer and early fall. The berries are edible, but not very palatable, and are rarely used for culinary purposes. This is a very easy plant to grow in the shady woodland environment. It can be a great addition to shade beds underneath tall trees. Plant it along with ferns, hosta and hellebore. The foamy white summer flowers have their own appeal, but the foliage is more prominent. The underground rhizomes spread creating colonies of

frond-like foliage. After the first hard frost, the leaves turn yellow, adding autumn color to the perennial garden. False Solomon's Seal will disappear over winter, but will return reliably each spring in climates as cold as USDA hardiness zone 3.

Planning the Autumn Landscape

2012-09-22T08:54:00.003-07:00

When considering fall trees and shrubs for the garden, naturally we are drawn to those that develop intense leaf colors, but there are other factors that play a role in the above view. In designing a garden, it is always important to look at the entire picture, just like we would a photograph or a painting. In this setting, the golden tones of the cut wheat intensify the russet leaf color of the leaves. Though the scale is much larger than that of the home garden, the scene also demonstrates the role of both evergreen and deciduous plant materials together. We might be wowed by the colors we see now, but in a brief time they will diminish, and the conifers in the background will take center stage throughout winter. I like to use the larger conifers as a backdrop for my garden, but I use more broadleaved evergreen trees and shrubs close in. I love plants with thick, glossy leaves that also provide flowers or berries at some point. Fall is the best time to plant woody trees and shrubs, so that the roots can settle in before they again experience dryer weather next summer. Fall is also when I love to shop, since the best plant sales are happening.

Mint Wars in the Garden

2012-08-20T07:53:00.000-07:00

Melissa officinalis

Melissa produces small white flowers at the leaf axles.

I can't be without certain plants even though they can be a bit of a headache. Most of the mint family can fall into this range, but there are some more robust than others. I have controlled my overzealous peppermint plants by moving them from the moister cared for garden environment, to a less perfect location that receives a little more sun, and a less water than required to proliferate freely. This proved too difficult for some varietal forms, but Orange mint has done very well. The spearmints are a little less forgiving, and have dwindled down in this location. A close cousin, Lemon Balm, Melissa officinalis, is by far the aggressor in this clan. Think of mint like a little grove of bamboo with roots that spread sideways, and can go under and over anything to get where it wants to go. Take these characteristics and add Lemon balms prolific re-seeding ability, and you have a worthy opponent. It is impossible to cut off the flower heads, since the tiny white blossoms appear at the leaf axles. A good way to control many re-seeding perennial plants is by deadheading the flowers with garden shears before the seed has time to develop. So why do I let this meandering herb have its way with my mint patch? It has me with its wonderful scent, and leaves that go well in tea, and calm a headache. So this fall I will move my other mints to a moderately moist location so they can gain some vigor, and I will give the lemon balm the area. I will need to pull up the seedlings that appear in nearby beds though, or I will simply have one herb, which is Melissa's ultimate goal.

Is the Scarlet Runner Bean Really Red?

2012-08-17T13:32:00.003-07:00

I guess bean flowers are like roses, the words crimson, cherry, red and scarlet were never meant to describe them accurately. The blossoms are still lovely, even orange, and they serve the purpose of sprucing up the vegetable garden. They will go well with my cherry red nasturtiums, which as you might have guessed, turned out orange. In truth there is a lot of cross-pollinating that goes on in the natural world, and that could be the culprit. It could also be that scarlet runner bean got its name due to the burgundy red spots of the beans once removed from the pod. I dried them last year, and used them to plant the beans this year, but hope to have enough for soup this year. The pods have a tougher exterior, so I still prefer the tender sweetness of my "Blue Lake" bush beans for eating whole.

Artichokes are Amazing Flowers

2012-08-14T16:43:00.000-07:00

The unopened flower bud of the artichoke contains the popular meaty parts, and should be harvested before they open to reveal the purple blue petals. I opted to harvest part of mine early, and leave some to open just for ornament. I am completely infatuated with these extremely colorful and very fragrant blossoms. I have several still on the stalk, in a large container on my porch. They look like they are from the prehistoric age, or maybe something you would scrub your car with... at any rate I will continue to grow them in my garden.