The Balcony Gardening

What to do with my outside bonsai during winter?

2012-02-23T00:05:00.002-05:00

Like I said in my post about the orchids, you do not have to worry about winter care of bonsai if you live in the tropics, but if you don't maybe you find this information useful for you.

You must become familiar with the specific varieties of bonsai you have to determine if protection (or how much protection) is required. For example the tropical bonsai candidates, such as the desert rose (Adenium obesum), can be treated as houseplants, but the vast majority of bonsai are temperate plants (not tropical) and they definitely need to be left outdoors. The most familiar bonsai specimens are hardy trees — either evergreen or deciduous. These rarely should be treated as houseplants in the winter--and then only in areas where the winters are extremely severe — because they have the same growing requirements as their full-size counterparts, and they need the same seasonal growth cycles. So leave them outside. Heel them in by burying their pots in the ground in an area where they are protected from snow cover and covered with a protective layer of mulch. If the temperatures drop well below that which the plants are hardy to, move them into an unheated garage for two or three days or into the house for up to a week or two, provided they receive adequate light and temperatures are cool (60 to 65 degrees).

The concept of wintering over a bonsai is not too much different from wintering over what is already planted in your yard. Most temperate climate trees grown as bonsai are capable of handling the severe weather as long as a few simple conditions are met.

It's better to allow them to go through a couple of light frosts at least - junipers can take anything down to 15-20 Fahr., and need to get cold to go dormant.

Remember that winter winds combined with temperatures below the mid twenties Fahrenheit (or below -5 Celsius) will freeze dry almost any bonsai.

But ting to keep temperate plants warm by placing them in the sun is a mistake. The added warmth from exposure to too much direct sun can cause a tree to wake up from dormancy too early. If this is followed by temperatures once again plunging down very low, the water in the sap can freeze within the cambium layer and kill the tree. So, please do not put an outdoor bonsai in a heated house for the winter.

Usually it is usually not necessary to take trees out of their pots. Good pots are capable of handling the temperature changes. One exception would be Trident Maple. This particular tree should be removed from its pot and the soil ball buried in the ground or a large box. If it is wintered in the pot the roots will turn to mush.

All other temperate plants can be kept in a sheltered area out of direct sun and wind. The pots should be mulched or buried to the top of the rim in the earth. Burlap barriers work well as a wind break. You can also make a wall using bales of straw.

If there is not much snow or the weather warms it is possible you will have to water your trees from time to time. Here is a good tip: once the soil freezes, don't water If the soil ball thaws and starts to dry you must water. The soil should not get saturated with water that freezing and expansion could break the pot. Be careful not to overwater in winter, especially deciduous trees as a tree with no winter foliage uses very little water.

(For more information, Please refer to my post from last year regarding Bonsai care during winter HERE)

How to take care of your ochids in winter

2012-02-22T23:19:00.004-05:00

If you grow orchids outside (temperature around 32 F., 0 C.) basically your orchids unfortunately will be. Most orchids are tropical type plants. Some orchids can survive freezing temperatures somewhat (Cymbidiums being a good example). But freezing temperatures over a continued period of time can really damage them as well.

So, If you think your orchids will freeze try to protect them. Bring them inside in a hallway, or perhaps behind a window (they look great in a kitchen window). The structure will give them some protection. If you can not bring them inside, snuggle them up close to the side of a house. Houses can give the plants the extra couple of degrees to help them through the coldest time. Move them into a greenhouse if you have one.

Most Southern areas do not need to take special precautions for winter care of orchids except when a frost alert is in place. (For example here in Miami, we are still in the 80's or low 70's).

Orchids need a certain amount of light and temperature to grow normally and the winter season can change that. A significant number of plants will have this as a normal period of dormancy or rest needed to get ready for the next budding period.

Some orchid plants like Cattleya, Epidendrum, Dendrobium and Oncidium may possibly need some artificial light. The high intensity orchids need about 12 to 14 hours of light during their growing season and less than that puts them at a disadvantage for generating buds and blooms.

It is only in the extreme northern US latitudes that we don't find at least 14 hours of daylight. The intensity of the light may be diminished because the sun is lower in the atmosphere during the winter. So if your plant needs more light you may need to move them from an area of where they used to get bright diffused light to a sunnier area of the home. The use of grow lights is not out of the question either especially for those plants requiring high light intensity like Oncidums and Cattleys. Lighting is an important aspect of winter care of orchid plants and if the plants do not get enough they will not bud.

The winter care of orchid plants usually means less watering because there is a needed period of rest. Instead of watering twice a week try watering once a week or instead of watering once a week we need to do it every 10 to 14 days. Now this changes if your home has low humidity, in this case you will need to water more often. The normal humidity that orchid plants love is between 40 - 80%. Most homes have about 40 -50 % humidity. If your home does not you may need to use humidity trays. These are metal or plastic trays that are filled with pebbles and then about 1/2 with water.

Since most orchids need temperatures between 55 - 80 degrees F, the plants in the middle and northern US need to come indoors. There are certain things we need to bear in mind. Normal home temperatures are usually good for orchid plants but we need to consider that if we keep our home temperatures low due to the high heating bills we may need to add some warmth during the day to the plants. It is not good to keep them at a constant 60 -65 degrees, they do need times with temperatures higher.

Be careful of the setting as well, a window sill in the day time may be wonderful for the plants but at night it may get too cool. In order to protect the plants use a curtain as a barrier to the cold. On the other hand the window sill can also burn plants if it gets too hot. By the way this damage also occurs with lack of water and over heating of the orchid plant.

The most common signs of cold injury include injury to the plant leaf which can be seen as pitting marks, large sunken areas or the eventual discoloration which can lead to a brown leaf. The amount of damage varies considerably with the cold injury. If a plant is frozen you will notice this rather fast after thawing. The dead spots on the leaves as well as the flowers and buds is easily noticeable.

This period is usually one of resting the need for fertilizer diminishes as well. You should stretch out the fertilizing to be twice as long as you would during the summer. For example if your routine for fertilizing was once a week in the summer than the winter care of orchid plants says that it now should be once every two to three weeks.

How to take care of the Fuchsias (Aljaba)

2011-09-30T23:49:00.005-04:00

A gardening care guide for the fuchsia plant, known as a difficult flower to grow, is provided for you by gardening experts. The romantic, vibrant colored fuchsia plant has blossoms that dangle beautifully from flower pots, hanging baskets, or over the soil in a flower garden. If your not familiar with the fuchsia plant, let me teach you all you need to know about this beautiful plant. The fuchsia flower is a prolific bloomer all summer long and can be grown indoors with proper care. Learn how to grow and care for an interesting addition to your garden or home, the fuchsia plant.

The fuchsia plant is named after Leonhard Fuchs, a German doctor who lived in the early 1500's. Almost all the fuchsia varieties we know of today come from South and Central America, New Zealand, and Tahit.

Originally, nearly 100 varieties of fuchsia were known, but they have been hybridized so much that today there are countless varieties.

Fuchsias are low growing, bush or sometimes tree-like plants. We still cultivate many varieties as indoor plants, and one of them is so hardy that it can winter in the open in the south. Most of the cultivated Fuchsia varieties are hybrids which may be low, rather droopy flowering plants, semi-tall trees or shrub-like plants. People often prop them up to allow the beautiful flowers to hang freely from the leaf crown that radiates from a slender stem.

Fuchsia is rich in color. The eye catching colorfulness of the fuchsia flower is due to the fact that the sepals, leaf lobes and petals, are all richly colored. Fuchsias are the most beautiful when kept in rather cool conditions in half-shade. Too much warmth and sunshine leads to rapid flower loss and severe evaporation from leaves and stems. Always make sure that the fuchsia plant gets the water it needs in the growth period. All varieties of fuchsia require special care, but they will reward all your efforts by forming lovely new flower buds on the tips of their stems.

Fuchsias are like children, though: each one requires a lifetime of care, or else…well, they won’t be much fun. Before I learned to take care of fuchsias, my well-intentioned gifts were crispy, drowned, or diseased by the Fourth of July. It turns out, though, that—unlike children—fuchsias are easy to care for, if you know a little bit about their needs.

Fuchsia is a genus comprising over 100 species of flowering shrubs and trees. The dangling habit and teardrop shape of the flowers gave rise to the popular name ladies’ eardrop. Most fuchsia are native to South America, where they grow in the understory of tropical or subtropical forests. There are a few interesting exceptions, however: Fuchsia excorticata is a tree from New Zealand that can reach 15 meters in height.

The plants you see at local flower shops are selected clones (cultivars), propagated by cuttings, not from seed. Over 10,000 cultivars have been described, and up to 2,000 are commonly grown. Nearly all of these cultivars, however, share the requirements of their South American ancestors: plenty of shade, frequent but not constant watering, and rich (read: fertilized) soil. To look their best, many fuchsia also need to be pruned at least yearly. If you can meet these needs, your fuchsia plant will remain lovely for many years.

Sun

Morning sun or sun-dappled shade is ideal for most fuchsia. Fuchsia can thrive in the sun, but the root system must be kept moist. Unless you are prepared for eternal vigilance, shelter your fuchsia from the hottest sun.

The flower symbolism associated with the fuchsia is confiding love. Fuchsia flowers are a very decorative pendulous "eardrop" shape, borne in profusion throughout the summer and autumn, and all year in tropical species. In many species, the sepals are bright red and the petals purple, a combination of colors that attract hummingbirds.

Water

Fuchsia should be watered in the morning, frequently enough to keep the soil moist but not soaked. In hot weather, you will need to water every day, while in cooler weather, twice a week will suffice. To decide whether to water your plant, look at and feel the soil. If the soil remains quite wet, right to the surface, then the plant doesn’t need more water. If the topmost layer has started to dry, then give water. Remember: fuchsia is more commonly killed by overwatering than by underwatering.

Fuchsia has a tendency to wilt on hot afternoons. It will perk up if misted with water or moved into the shade. You should avoid watering in the late afternoon or evening, however. Fuchsia has stomata (pores) in their leaves that close in the evening, preventing it from shedding excess water.

Fertilizer

Fuchsia is known as “gross feeders” and need access to plenty of fertilizer. When the plants are flowering, especially in late summer and fall, use water-soluble fertilizer formulated for tomatoes (higher in potash, or “K”). You can apply full-strength fertilizer every 1-2 weeks or quarter-strength fertilizer at every watering. I find the latter approach simpler.

If you plan to keep your fuchsia for years, you will need to overwinter the plant (see below) and then feed through the spring and summer. During the first month of spring, when the fuchsia starts to put out new growth, use high-nitrogen feed. Through late spring and summer, switch to a balanced feed (such as NPK 20-20-20). Then, as the plant starts to flower heavily, use tomato feed as suggested above.

Pruning

Fuchsia only develop flowers on new growth. This means that you need to encourage a nice distribution of new growth each year in order to have a concentrated show of flowers.

Fuchsia should be cut back by one-half to two-thirds in late autumn, as the temperatures cool and growth starts to slow down. Fuchsia in pots can be cut back to 4-8” above soil level. The remaining stems will form the skeleton of next year’s growth. Without this pruning, the plants become long-stemmed over time, with flowers only showing on the newer, outside growth.In the spring, as the fuchsia starts to grow vigorously again, begin applying high-nitrogen fertilizer as mentioned above. When the stems have at least three pairs of leaves, you can “stop” the plant to encourage a bushy shape with more branches and, as a result, more flowers. Simply remove the growing tip from stems after they have acquired several pairs of leaves. Do not remove the growing tip before this point, as new branches will only form at the junctions between leaves and stems. Be sure not to damage these critical areas (the leaf axils). You can stop the plant again after the new branches have several pairs of leaves.

Stopping can be difficult for the novice to stomach. The process may seem to threaten your plant. Remember this, however: the more stops you put in, the more flowers you will get out.

Overwintering

Even a single, light frost can kill some types of fuchsia. Therefore, the plants must be kept above freezing throughout the winter. If the temperature is likely to drop below 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit, then the plants will likely lose their leaves and go dormant. When the plants are defoliated, they can be lightly watered and placed under a table, covered in peat, or wrapped in bubble wrap or newspaper. Note that the fuchsia must not be allowed to dry out over the course of the winter. They will need to be checked and watered occasionally. If the plants dehydrate, they will die. In the spring, when all chance of frost has passed, the plants can be brought out of storage and into a shady spot, then watered. When new growth appears, begin applying fertilizer.

In warmer areas, or if you have access to a heated greenhouse that will keep the temperature above 45 degrees, fuchsia can be kept in green leaf throughout the winter. They will grow slowly throughout the winter, giving them an excellent start in the spring. Keep watering to a minimum so that the potting medium is just moist.

Fuchsia is easy to care for if you remember their sub-tropical origins. Keep them moist but not wet, give plenty of fertilizer, and prune in the autumn to encourage new growth next year.

Special Techniques of Bonsai: Jin and Shari (Videos)

2011-09-30T23:35:00.001-04:00

How to grow Rosemary (Rosmarinus) in your Balcony

2011-09-30T23:31:00.000-04:00

Rosemary (botanical name Rosmarinus officinalis), also known as Garden Rosemary, is native to the Mediterranean area. A member of the mint family, it is an evergreen shrub also related to basil, marjoram, and oregano. It is usually found growing by the ocean, and its latin name equates to "dew of the sea."

Some rosemary plants grow up to 6 feet tall or more, but standard varieties are usually around 3 feet and bushy. The small, gray-green leaves look similar to small pine needles and have a bittersweet, lemony, slightly piney flavor. Small flowers range from white to pale blue to dark blue, usually flowering in late spring.

Usage of rosemary dates back to 500 b.c., when it was used as a culinary and medicinal herb by the ancient Greeks and Romans. It is still a popular medicinal herb today.

Most commercially-used, dried rosemary comes to us from Spain, France, and Morocco. However, it is easy to grow your own in temperate climates.

In 1987, researchers at Rutgers University in New Jersey patented a food preservative derived from rosemary. The chemical, called rosmaridiphenol, is a very stable antioxidant useful in cosmetics and plastic food packaging.

Rosemary is indeed a versatile, aromatic herb. It is used in a wide variety of dishes, including fruit salads, soups, vegetables, meats (especially lamb), fish, eggs, stuffings, dressings, and even desserts. It is also used to scent cosmetics and perfumes, in insect repellants, and has medicinal uses. You will find rosemary a delightful herb in both savory and sweet recipes.

Rosmarinus means dew of the sea in Latin. It is found in rocky sites and woodland and scrub in the Mediterranean region, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. It is an aromatic, perennial shrub that is now widely cultivated for its aromatic leaves and flowers. Some of the legends connected with this herb are very curious. It is associated with the Virgin Mary. It is said that it used to flower white until Mary hung her cloak on a bush while fleeing Herod's soldiers. It is supposed to be one of the herbs, along with lavender, thyme, pennyroyal, lady's bedstraw, and costmary, found in the manger. For a long time, people believed the reason it would not grow over 6' in 33 years was so as not to stand taller than Christ.

It is found traditionally in wedding bouquets as a reminder to the couple of their wedding vows. In the language of flowers it means remembrance and love. Greek students believed it improved the memory, and so they wore it in their hair when studying for exams. Another tale says that if a rosemary plant grows vigorously in a family's garden that it is the woman who wears the pants in the family. In Egypt, it was found in the wrappings of mummies. In Australia, it is worn on Anzac Day, a day set aside to commemorate the dead. In France, during the Middle Ages, it was combined with juniper and burned in bunches in hospitals to kill bacteria. Modern research shows that it does have antibacterial properties. In Hungary, in 1235, Queen Izabella was stricken with a paralyzing illness. A hermit came to court with a preparation of rosemary soaked in wine, which cured her. Since then, this combination, known as Queen Hungary's Water has been used to treat gout and baldness.

Harvest and Use: Rosemary has many uses besides culinary. It is used as a medicinal, an aromatic, an ornamental in the landscape, as a dye, in cosmetics, and as a houseplant. Rosemary essential oil adds a piney scent to soaps, creams, lotions, perfumes, and toilet water. It is a stimulating herb and makes a wonderful herbal bath when you feel worn out and want to get your blood flowing under your skin again. Just put some in a muslin bag and get in the tub with it. You can also treat yourself to a cleansing and pick-me-up facial steam with a stronginfusion. Blend it in potpourri. It can be woven into wreaths and garlands. Rosemary sachets are very nice for scenting drawers. Dry needles can be added to other herbs and made into closet sachets to repel moths. These smell a lot better than mothballs and are not toxic. It yields a green dye.

Add a handful of sprigs to the coals before grilling for extra aromatics. Throw the stems into the wood stove for scent. Combine rosemary with lavender, santolina, tansy, and lemongrass into a tulle sachet and hang in the closet with woolens as a moth repellent.

Medicinally, a warm tea is good for colds, flu, rheumatic pain, indigestion, and as a stimulating drink for headache and fatigue. It is antiseptic and promotes sweating and the flow of bile. It acts as an antidepressant, a circulatory stimulant, and a tonic for the nervous system and the heart. It is a rich source of vitamin A and vitamin C, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, and zinc. It also has antioxidant properties. A strong infusion makes an antiseptic mouthwash and gargle. The essential oil can be used externally as an ingredient in salves for arthritis and to soothe aching muscles. Extracts are found in shampoos. A hair rinse of a strong infusion can help dandruff and is good for dark hair. Do not use the pure oil internally. Like all medicinal plants, be cautious when using as a healing herb. The essential oil should not be used internally and when used externally, it should be diluted as is true for all essential oils except lavender. It should not be used in pregnancy, as it is a uterine stimulant. Large doses are irritating to the kidneys and stomach, but used in lesser amounts as a seasoning, it is perfectly safe.

The flavor of rosemary harmonizes with those of poultry, fish, lamb, beef, veal, pork, and game, especially roasts. It also goes well with tomatoes, spinach, peas, mushrooms, squash, cheese, eggs, lentils, and complements chives, chervil, chives, thyme, parsley, and bay. Commercially, an antioxidant prepared from both sage and rosemary improves the stability of soy oil and potato chips. Rosemary adds character to mild soups, marinades, salad dressings, and bouquets garni. Include fresh rosemary in all your Italian sauces. Stud roast pork generously with garlic and rosemary sprigs by making a hole in the meat and pressing the garlic and rosemary into it. Try an herb butter by combining 2 teaspoons rosemary to ½ cup butter. Add it to fruit salad to enhance sweetness without adding sugar. Make a rosemary jelly for roast meats and poultry.

Harvest anytime by snipping the ends of the stems. This will cause your plant to bush out. If you do not want it to bush, pull off a few leaves or sprays. Never take more than 20% of the plant. Rosemary is so much better fresh because it dries into tough little sticks that stick in your teeth or ruin the consistency of culinary dishes. If you are cooking with dry rosemary, wrap it in a bundle tied to the pot handle for easy removal. Besides drying, you can freeze whole sprigs. When you need some, remove from the stem. Frozen rosemary is stronger than fresh.

Cultivation and Propagation: Who can walk by a rosemary plant without passing their hand across it in order to get a whiff of its exquisite fragrance? I can't. It makes the work of repotting every fall to bring it in worthwhile. It makes a fine perennial border or a beautiful hedgerow. It is bold yet graceful and is handsome alone or as an accent plant on a patio or terrace. Prostrate varieties can be set so as to creep along a wall. They look great in hanging baskets or window boxes. The flowers attract bees and a delicious honey is made from the nectar. You also can create the spokes of an herb wheel with rosemary. Except for the cultivar 'Arp' which is hardy to zone 6, you can only leave rosemary out all year long if you live in a zone 8 to 10. The two reasons people lose their rosemary in the winter are incorrect watering and too heavy a soil. Judicious watering is imperative. It hates wet feet and will surely die if left un-watered for too long. It doesn't like being near a hot sunny window in summer where it will burn. If you are growing it in a container, consider taking it out of the pot and putting it in the garden for the summer where it can wiggle its toes. You will get much more vigorous growth and a healthier plant to survive the winter indoors. When you do repot it, nice, loose soil mixed with perlite, sand, and vermiculite is a must.

Rosemary can be grown from seed, but since the germination rate is 30% at best, buy plants from a reputable nursery. Once you have a well-established plant, you can increase your supply by taking cuttings. It can also be propagated by layering.

Pests: Indoors, rosemary is susceptible to powdery mildew. Inside winter air is often dry and stagnant, which promotes the disease. A fan for better air circulation helps, as does misting your rosemary.

Creeping Rosemary: Rosmarinus officinalis Prostratus Group is a tender perennial that only reaches 6 to 12 inches in height, but can spread to 3 feet. Plant creeping rosemary in full sun in the garden border, cascading over walls, trailing down banks, and in window boxes and hanging baskets. It's especially pretty when the lavender flowers are blooming and its long, twisting, curling, re-curving branches spill over the edges of a terra cotta pot.General cultivation information above.

Rosemary 'Arp':Rosmarinus officinalis 'Arp'is a perennial that grows 3 to 5 feet tall and spreads 2 to 3 feet. It prefers full sun, and is the best rosemary for colder climates (survives to -10°F with protection of mulch and/or burlap wrap). It has an open, bushy habit, gray-green, lemony-scented leaves and blue flowers. Grow in ordinary, well-drained soil. Never let it dry out and never let it sit in water. General cultivation information above.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): is widely used as a spice when cooking, especially in Mediterranean dishes. It is also used for its fragrance in soaps and other cosmetics. Traditionally, rosemary has been used medicinally to improve memory, relieve muscle pain and spasm, stimulate hair growth, and support the circulatory and nervous systems. It is also believed to increase menstrual flow, act as an abortifacient (causing miscarriage), increase urine flow, and treat indigestion. Almost none of these uses have been studied scientifically in humans. However, one study in humans found that long term daily intake of rosemary prevents thrombosis.

In the lab, rosemary has been shown to have antioxidant properties. Antioxidants can neutralize harmful particles in the body known as free radicals, which damage cell membranes, tamper with DNA, and even cause cell death. Also in the lab, rosemary oil appears to have antimicrobial properties (killing some bacteria and fungi in test tubes). It isn't known whether rosemary would have the same effect in humans.

Indigestion

Rosemary leaf is used in Europe for indigestion (dyspepsia) and is approved by the German Commission E, which examines the safety and efficacy of herbs.

Muscle and Joint Pain

Applied topically (to the skin), rosemary oil is sometimes used to treat muscle pain and arthritis and to improve circulation. It is approved by the German Commission E for this purpose. However, there is no scientific evidence that it works.

Alopecia

Historically, rosemary has been used to stimulate hair growth. Rosemary was used in one study of 84 people with alopecia areata (a disease in which hair falls out, generally in patches). Those who massaged their scalps with rosemary and other essential oils (including lavender, thyme, and cedarwood) every day for 7 months experienced significant hair regrowth compared to those who massaged their scalps without the essential oils. But the study was not well designed, and it is impossible to say whether rosemary caused the hair growth.

Neutralize Foodborne Pathogens

Several studies show that rosemary inhibits foodborne pathogens like Listeria monocytogenes, B. cereus, and S. aureus.

Improve Memory or Concentration

Rosemary is often used in aromatherapy to increase concentration and memory, and to relieve stress. One study suggests that rosemary, combined with other pleasant smelling oils, may lower cortisol levels and help reduce anxiety. Another study found that the use of lavender and rosemary essential oil sachets reduced test taking stress in graduate nursing students.

How to Take It:

Pediatric: Because rosemary has not been studied in children, it is not recommended for medicinal use in those under age 18. It is safe to eat as a spice in food, however.

Adult: Rosemary can be used as a tea made from the dry herb, a tincture, fluid extract, decoction for a bath, or as an essential oil mixed with other oils for topical use. Speak to your health care provider to find the right dose for your condition. Total daily intake should not exceed 4 - 6 grams of the dried herb. Do not take rosemary oil orally.

Precautions: The use of herbs is a time honored approach to strengthening the body and treating disease. Herbs, however, can trigger side effects and interact with other herbs, supplements, or medications. For these reasons, you should take herbs with care, under the supervision of a health care provider.

Rosemary is generally considered safe when taken in recommended doses. However, there have been occasional reports of allergic reactions. Large quantities of rosemary leaves, because of their volatile oil content, can cause serious side effects, including vomiting, spasms, coma and, in some cases, pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs).

Because higher doses of rosemary may cause miscarriage, pregnant and nursing women should not take rosemary as a supplement. It is safe to eat as a spice in food, however.

People with high blood pressure, ulcers, Crohn's disease, or ulcerative colitis should not take rosemary.

Rosemary oil can be toxic if ingested and should never be taken orally.

Possible Interactions:

Antiplatelet and anticoagulant drugs (blood thinners) -- Rosemary may affect the blood's ability to clot. It could interfere with any blood thinning drugs you are taking, including: Warfarin (Coumadin), Clopidogrel (Plavix), aspirin

ACE inhibitors -- Rosemary may interfere with the action of ACE inhibitors taken for high blood pressure, including: Captpril (Capoten), Enalapril (Vasotec), Lisinopril (Zestril), Fosinopril (Monopril)

Diuretics (water pills) -- Because rosemary can act as a diuretic, it can increase the effects of these drugs. That can raise your risk of dehydration. (Furosemide (Lasix), Hydrocholorothiazide)

Lithium -- Because of its diuretic effects, rosemary might cause the body to lose too much water and the amount of lithium in the body to build up to toxic levels.

Diabetes -- Rosemary may alter blood sugar levels and could interfere with any drugs taken to control diabetes.

Special Techniques of Bonsai (Part 2): Jin or Shari (Deadwood)

2011-09-30T23:22:00.001-04:00

Jin and Shari or Deadwood as it is called in the western countries, adds not only an effective feature to a design but in the case of many old Pine and Juniper, a very realistic one as well. Jins on trees in nature are normally created when branches are broken by strong winds, by the weight of snow or by lightening strikes.

If you have branches that you are not going to require for your final styling you can use them to create jin. The use of jin on a bonsai implies to the viewer an increased age and shows the struggle of the tree to survive.

Shari is made to add age to a tree, or to disguise a bad scar or defect on the trunk. There must be a good reason to have shari. It should not be made just to have a shari. In nature shari are made by storms, rockslides and insect infestations, not to mention lightning and a dozen other things.

If two dead branches occur, one above the other, a shari can be made connecting them. This can have a very natural look and give age and beauty to an otherwise plain tree. Also, occasionally a tree has a large twisted branch with a jin at the tip; a small shari can be made further back on the branch to give it a more aged look.
Shari should be made in the direction of growth of the trunk or branch. Small shari can usually be done in one treatment. Larger shari should be done over a longer period of time because too much removal of bark and live tissue can seriously weaken or kill a tree. If a shari is made small at first, then enlarged, it will give the tree time to adjust to the change. When the wood that is exposed dries out completely it can then be widened. The process can progress over a few years if you desire the majority of the trunk to be deadwood. Man-made shari will look better if they do not go straight up and down the trunk. Natural shari can be in any shape but can be modified with care to effect improvement.

Unfortunately, its design can be difficult. A successful jin must look natural, it must look as though it has been created by nature in order to compliment and not detract from the tree. A common way of creating a jin is by carving using power and hand tool. It takes a great deal of skill, particularly if the wood is featureless. Deadwood features are created by tearing away at the wood to mimic the action of a broken branch pulling away strips of the grain to create a natural effect. These techniques can also be applied when creating jin from branches down to 1/2" in thickness; they are however intended only for species that have fibrous wood. This includes nearly all coniferous species but only some deciduous species.

The purpose of jinning a trunk is to create an effect of an old, dead stump that will compliment the main trunk of the bonsai.

Jin can be made at any time of the year but if you are doing large branches it is best to wait until the tree is dormant and the sap is not flowing.

When creating dead wood on branches, select branches that are heavy enough to produce good jin. Remember that when the bark and soft tissue are removed what remains is much smaller than the branch you started with. If you want to jin a branch in the future that is not yet large enough, wire it, shape it, and let the wire cut in so that the twist effect will show when the bark is later removed.

When jin are made here and there on a tree it is best to make them small, unless a very large branch is jinned. If the tree is mostly jin, then mixed small and large jin looks good.

The first step is to remove the bark from the portion of wood that is to be jinned. Any remaining soft tissue is also removed. At this point only the part of the stump that is above the soil level will be worked on; further work will be carried out as the stump is revealed after repotting in the future.

The first slithers are pulled away from the stump; the top of the wood is either notched to segment it or crushed with pliers. Each segment is then pulled down and away from the stump with jin pliers or ordinary pliers. When pulling away strips of wood, it is important the live section at the sides or the base are not damaged. Strips rarely stop abruptly above the live wood and often need removing near the base with a knife or similar.

The pulling down of the segments of wood continues on the first half of the stump.

The second half of the stump is then pulled away; it is starting to reveal more of a natural shape. Unfortunately, the current shape resembles a catapult and it is decided to reduce the second half of the stump further.

After reducing the second half of the stump; now the jin is really starting to take shape. Increasingly smaller strips of the grain are now pulled the length of the stump, creating more texture to the wood.As the wood is fibrous, small burrs and pulls are evident. These are best dealt with by gently burning the surface of the wood.

The stump is gently scorched with a naked flame to burn off all the fibres. It is very important at this point to protect the rest of the tree, in particular the foliage, from not only the flame but also the heat that it generates. In this case, a piece of hardboard was used to completely cover the tree from the flame. It is also important that the jin itself is only slightly scorched to remove the fibres otherwise it is possible for the jin itself to set alight!Any blackening of the wood is easily removed by the process of smoothing off and lime-sulphuring. In this picture, the jin has been lightly carved with a small gouge to accentuate its lines and it has been gently sanded down with sandpaper to smooth out any tool marks. Sharp edges are also rounded off to replicate the effect that the action of the weather would have on deadwood in nature.

Once the jin is made, scrape it clean, sand it with emery cloth, (cloth backed sandpaper used by plumbers, available at most hardware stores) wire it and put movement in it if it has none. The jin can now be treated with lime sulfur.
to whiten it and to stop it from rotting in the future. In the future, black ink will be added to the lime sulphur when painting the recesses to add a greater illusion of depth.

The following morning the lime-sulphur has nearly dried and the work is complete. Once treated, wait until the wood is dry (months later) and then treat with wood hardener.

After the jin is dry and shaped by wire it can be worked on again. Soak the jin with water and remove the softer wood in one direction with a wire brush. This gives the jin an aged look with the grain showing. Then treat it with lime sulfur and wood hardener if you hadn’t previously.
Lime Sulfur should be applied once per year to help preserve wood for the long term. If it appears too white tint the lime mix with sumii ink to the degree of grayness you desire. However, trees with naturally black dead wood, such as olive, should not be made white.
The effect of the lime sulfur will decrease over the course of a few months so that the jin looks more natural

In the future, when the tree itself has been styled, the jin will be further refined to ensure it compliments other areas of deadwood on the bonsai as a whole. For the time being, it will now be left to dry and weather naturally.

Shari is made by cutting into the hard wood. Since it cannot be wired it should be carefully shaped with a small gouge. Do not use an electric tool except for rough cutting. The marks from electric tools do not look natural, so always finish with hand tools. Treat the shari with lime sulfur and a wood hardener after it has dried as you would with jin.
A nice effect can be achieved with old shari that have a significant rollover. Rollover occurs when the cambium grows rounded at the edge of a shari to heal it. Kill the live section back further to create a double rollover on the trunk.

Thanks to my friend Thanun Patipantada for the pictures.

Welcome to the Fall (Videos)

2011-09-24T01:39:00.000-04:00

Fernes, Mosses and Liverworts (Ground cover for bonsai)

2011-09-13T21:57:00.004-04:00

The ground cover of your bonsai is one of the important aesthetic elements that will improve the overall visual composition of your bonsai, as well as assist in providing soil chemical stability and retaining temperature and moisture for the bonsai tree’s surface roots. A good choice of ground cover vegetation coupled with other landscaping accessories will complement your bonsai tree greatly. (It is also one of the assessment factors in bonsai competitions.)

There are functions for everything in bonsai, and mosses and lichens, used as ground covers, are no exception. They, of course, look great, covering the soil surface with 'green velvet' and helping to retain water while holding the soil in the container. For people buying bonsai, the presence of moss is always a good sign. There are a great number of types of mosses and lichens and these can be mixed to provide a very effective result overall. When not used for 'conservation' purposes, they should be planted sparingly so that their effect is natural, and they do not prevent water from reaching the soil.

There is a particular method of mossing a potted bonsai that will produce a smooth mat of deep green, with none of the lumpy growth that can be typical of piecing bits of moss together. With a sharp knife, slice the moss from its growing place, taking as little soil as possible. Put this moss in a container lined with paper, and moisten it lightly (it should be moist, not wet). Remove most of the remaining soil from the moss using sharp scissors, pulling each little tuft away from the larger piece.

Prepare the surface soil in the bonsai pot by scratching it to roughen it up. With long handed tweezers, start inserting each tuft of moss close to, but not against, the trunk. Work out and away from the trunk until you have the look you want, then brush off most of the tufts. Sprinkle dry soil over the moss and press it down with a flat spatula or small trowel (even your hand if you are careful). Mist gently two or three times and the soil will settle down between the tufts.

As an alternative to collecting moss and going through this somewhat time consuming process, you can use dried moss. Gather it, then place it in the shade for a few days until it is completely dry. Put it through a fine strainer - a sieve will do - to crumble it. Mix the particles with some soil and spread it over the bonsai soil in the pot, making a thin, even layer. Press it down with a flat spatula or small trowel and gently mist continually until the soft green moss begins to grow. Some people just scrape soil off the bottom of the moss and put this on the soil of the bonsai, but takes a much longer time to root and is a delight for small birds when looking for worms if left exposed. Along with the growth of a healthy crop of moss often comes the appearance of a silver fungus around the soil line at the trunk of the tree. This is a sign of a healthily growing bonsai. The fungus develops as the moss takes hold, and it cannot be artificially implanted. In the heat of summer, moss may turn brown. It means the bonsai is getting the water it needs. As soon as cooler temperatures and higher humidity return, so will the 'green velvet'.

Ferns, Mosses and Liverworts are flowerless plants, reproducing by small, dust-like spores that are dispersed by the wind. They are most abundant in damp habitats and most climates, as their thin leaves are easily damaged by desiccation. Also, unlike flowering plants that produce pollen, fertilization is brought about by a male sperm, which needs a film of water in which to swim to the egg.

Moses and liverworts belong to a group of plants known as the Bryophyta . Their spores develop in a capsule, usually situated at the top of a stalk, or seta. Mosses differ from liverworts in the structure of the spore capsule and the arrangement of their leaves. About 65 different mosses and liverworts have been found growing on the bark of oaks, but very few ferns habitually grow on the trees themselves.

Ferns like bright diffused light and moist soil. Prune dead fronds from the plant immediately and keep humidity near the plant high for best results.

Polypodium vulgare: Ferns are common in oakwoods but the Common Polypody is the only species that regularly grows on trees themselves. The spores develop in the microscopic sacs called sporangia, which are arranged in orange-brown clusters, called Sori, on the undersides of the fronds.

Lophocolea bidentata/heterophylla: The bidentata is a common leafy liverwort, found on decaying logs and among mosses on woodland banks. The heterophylla grows on the lower parts of trunks and branches, and its upper leaves are unlobed, unlike the bidentata.

Isothecium myosuroides: This is a very common moss throughout Britain and central Europe, typically growing on the lower parts of tree trunks, on falled logs, and also on shaded rocks adn boulders. It is a pleurocarpous moss, with spore capsules growing from the sides rather than the ends of the branches, and has a characteristic olive-green sheen.

Amblystegium serpens: This is one of the smallest European species of pleurocarpous moss, with tiny leaves, and it is common on fallen logs and the lower branches of trees throughout Britain and central Europe. It produces capsules almost all year round.

Dicranoweisia cirrata: This is the most common of the acrocarpous mosses, (mosses that have capsules at the tips of erect shoots), of tree trunks and lower branches. It is usually fertile and is found throughout Europe, specially in areas with low levels of atmospheric pollution.

Ulota crispa: This occurs in small, yellow-green tufts on twigs and small branches of hazel and elder, as well as young oaks. Widespread throughout Europe, it is less common in the Midlands and southeast regions of Britain.

Mnimum hornum: This is one of the most common European woodland mosses. It grows on tree trunks, decaying logs, stream banks, and woodland floors, especially on acid soil throughout Britain and central Europe. It forms extensive dark-green patches.

Eurhynchium praelongun: A delicate species of pleurocarpous moss common in central Europe, it favours decaying stumps and logs. It has fine, feathery branches and small leaves, and regular branching of shoots is characteristic.

Frullania dilatata: A small, leafy liverwort, it can frequently be found growing on the lower branches and trunks of oaks and other trees. The reddish-brown colour is characteristic of the Frullania species. It is widespread in Britain and Europe, except in polluted areas and the extreme north.

Dicranum scoparium: This is a common moss on fallen logs, woodland banks and the trunks and lower branches of trees. It grows in bright green patches and the tips of its erect shoots all curve over in the same direction.

Hypnum cupressiforme: A very common moss throughout Europe, this grows in mats on banks, trees and decaying logs, Similar to isothecium myosuroides, it grows higher up on trees and has more curves leaves.

Brachythecium rutabulum: This is a robust species of pleurocarpous moss wit a characteristic yellow-green, glossy tinge to the branch tips. It is common on tree trunks and decaying logs, especially where the soil is fertile. It is abundant throughout central Europe.

There exists a multitude of suitable ground cover plants for growing bonsai, and those above are only a fraction of the plentiful choices available. It must be remembered that the ground cover should never be totally shaded and covered up with growth, as the soil needs the warmth from the sun to provide conducive conditions for root growth.

Thanks Richard Lewington.

Eucalyptus Globulus

2011-09-04T10:11:00.001-04:00

Eucalyptus, blue gum, fever tree

Family: Myrtaceae (Zone 9)

The Australian eucalyptus is cultivated all over the world. Leaves from young trees are rounded and blue-green with a silvery bloom, those from mature trees are longer, pointed, tough and glossy green.

The first leaves are broad, without stalks, of a shining whitish-green and are opposite and horizontal, but after four or five years these are succeeded by others of a more ensiform or sword-shaped form, 6 to 12 inches long, bluish-green in hue, which are alternate and vertical, i.e. with the edges turned towards the sky and earth, an arrangement more suited to the climate and productive of peculiar effects of light and shade. The flowers are single or in clusters, almost stalkless.

It was Baron Ferdinand von Müller, the German botanist and explorer (from 1857 to 1873 Director of the Botanical Gardens in Melbourne), who made the qualities of this Eucalyptus known all over the world, and so led to its introduction into Europe, North and South Africa, California and the non-tropical districts of South America. He was the first to suggest that the perfume of the leaves resembling that of Cajaput oil, might be of use as a disinfectant in fever districts, a suggestion which has been justified by the results of the careful examination to which the Eucalyptus has been subjected since its employment in medicine. Some seeds, having been sent to France in 1857, were planted in Algiers and thrived exceedingly well. Trottoir, the botanical superintendent, found that the value of the fragrant antiseptic exhalations of the leaves in fever or marshy districts was far exceeded by the amazingly powerful drying action of the roots on the soil. Five years after planting the Eucalyptus, one of the most marshy and unhealthy districts of Algiers was converted into one of the healthiest and driest. As a result, the rapidly growing Eucalyptus trees are now largely cultivated in many temperate regions with the view of preventing malarial fevers. A noteworthy instance of this is the monastery of St. Paolo à la tre Fontana, situated in one of the most fever-stricken districts of the Roman Campagna. Since about 1870, when the tree was planted in its cloisters, it has become habitable throughout the year. To the remarkable drainage afforded by its roots is also ascribed the gradual disappearance of mosquitoes in the neighbourhood of plantations of this tree, as at Lake Fezara in Algeria.

In Sicily it is being extensively planted to combat malaria, on account of its property of absorbing large quantities of water from the soil. Recent investigations have shown that Sicilian Eucalyptus oil obtained from leaves during the flowering period can compete favourably with the Australian oil in regard to its industrial and therapeutic applications. Oil has also been distilled in Spain from the leaves of E. globulus, grown there.

In India, considerable plantations of E. globulus were made in 1863 in the Nilgiris at Ootacamund, but though a certain amount of oil is distilled there locally, under simple conditions, little attempt has hitherto been made to develop the industry on a commercial scale, Australia remaining the source of supply.

A great increase in Eucalyptus cultivation has recently taken place in Brazil as a result of a decree published in 1919 awarding premiums and free grants of land to planters of Eucalyptus and other trees of recognized value for essence cultivation.

There are a great number of species of Eucalyptus trees yielding essential oils, the foliage of some being more odorous than that of others, and the oils from the various species differing widely in character. It necessarily follows that the term Eucalyptus oil is meaningless from a scientific point of view unless the species from which it is derived is stated.

They contain a strongly scented oil in small translucent glands. The woody flower bud has a lid that is pushed off as the mass of stamens emerge. The bark frequently peels off in characteristic ragged strips.

It is used as a leave infusion (antiseptic, anorexigenic), essential oil (antiseptic, wound healing, expectorant).

The British Pharmacopoeia describes Eucalyptus Oil as the oil distilled from the fresh leaves of E. globulus and other species.The oils may be roughly divided into three classes of commercial importance:

the medicinal oils, which contain substantial amounts of eucalyptol (also known as cineol)
the industrial oils, containing terpenes, which are used for flotation purposes in mining operations
the aromatic oils, such as E. citriodora, which are characterized by their aroma.

The British Pharmacopoeia requires Eucalyptus Oil to contain not less than 55 per cent, by volume, of Eucalyptol, to have a specific gravity 0.910 to 0.930 and optical rotation -10 degrees to 10 degrees. The official method for the determination of the Eucalptol depends on the conversion of this body into a crystalline phosphate, but numerous other methods have been suggested

The medicinal Eucalyptus Oil is probably the most powerful antiseptic of its class, especially when it is old, as ozone is formed in it on exposure to the air. It has decided disinfectant action, destroying the lower forms of life. Internally, it has the typical actions of a volatile oil in a marked degree.

Eucalyptus Oil is used as a stimulant and antiseptic gargle. Locally applied, it impairs sensibility. It increases cardiac action.

The oil is a powerful antiseptic and disinfectant. Rub in onto the chest for bronchitis and chest complaints, and sprinkle on the pillow to soothe coughs, colds and asthma. Several drops in warm water make a gargle for sore throats. To clear the nose and bronchial tubes, boil 25g (1 oz) fresh leaves in one liter (2 1/4 pints) water, then inhale the steam with a towel over your head.The bark produces a beige dye and when boiled for about 2 hours, the fresh leaves give a beautiful red.

When to use it? external use : antiseptic for cuts, burns, leucorrhea, respiratory infections (inhalation)

internal use : respiratory infections: sinus infection, bronchitis, common cold or flu with associated bronchitis, urinary infections

When not to use it? When you have allergy to eucalytus, possible bronchospasm with essential oil. all alkaloid are dangerous drugs.intoxication lead to hallucinations, dementia, possible death.

In veterinary practice, Eucalyptus Oil is administered to horses in influenza, to dogs in distemper, to all animals in septicaemia. It is also used for parasitic skin affections.

Morikami Japanese Garden, Boca Raton, FL. USA (Part 2)

2011-09-03T14:01:00.000-04:00

Morikami Japanese Garden, Boca Raton, FL. USA (Part 1)

2011-08-29T23:15:00.000-04:00

art

The History of the Pomegranate

2011-08-27T18:57:00.030-04:00

The many-seeded fruit of the pomegranate tree (Punica granatum), native to the Near East and tropical Africa, is one of the oldest Semitic symbols of life, fertility and abundance. The pomegranate, along with wheat and the grape, was regarded as one of the prime attributes of Ibritz, the Hittite god of agriculture. It was embroidered at the hem of Aaron's sacred robes and adorned the official vestments of the priest-kings of ancient Persia. The capitals and pillars of the Temple of Solomon were covered with carved pomegranates. Pomegranates were served at the marriage banquets of ancient Assyria and Babylonia as a symbol of love and fecundity.

When the pomegranate traveled from Asia Minor to the Far East, its symbolic meaning accompanied it. At Oriental weddings, seeds of the pomegranate were offered to the guests and when the newly-weds entered their bedchamber, pomegranates were thrown to the floor of the bursting fruits strewed their seeds all over the room, signifying that the marriage should be happy and blessed with many children. When the Moors conquered Spain about 800 A.D., they introduced the pomegranate into the Iberian peninsula and the fruit became the emblem of Granada, whose name was derived from it.

Catherine of Aragon (1485-1536), the first wife of Henry VIII, wore the Spanish emblem of the pomegranate, and the Oriental fruit became the badge of their daughter, Mary Tudor (1516-1558), Queen of England.

Presumably, the pomegranate was introduced into the new world by the early Spanish colonists and has since been commonly cultivated in gardens ranging from warmer sections of the USA to Chile. Small commercial plantings have been made in California. Though pomegranates will grow in a wide range of climates, good fruit is produced only where high temperature and dry atmosphere accompany the ripening period.

Varieties cultivated in the USA are the Wonderful, the Paper-Shell, and the Spanish Ruby.

The name of the pomegranate was derived from the Latin pomum (apple) and granatum (with seeds). When the explosive shell that strewed metal particles over a wide area was invented, the French, mindful of the seed-scattering characteristics of the pomegranate, called it granade, and the special regiments, founded in 1791, who launched these new weapons, were called granadiers.

In folk medicine, the fruit's astringent properties have been used to treat various ailments (cuts, sore throats, tapeworms, dysentery, and gum disease). Pomegranate juice is marketed in the United States as a major source of antioxidant nutrients that protect against heart disease and other ailments. Recent research has focused on its potential use as a treatment for cardiovascular disease, diabetes, and various forms of cancer.

Pomegranates are a good source of vitamin C, providing between 10-20% of the recommended daily allowance according to one source and up to 40% according to another. The potent antioxidant properties of the fruit have been attributed to its high content of soluble polyphenols. When tested in vitro on normal and colon-cancer cell lines, the juice was found to have superior antioxidant, antiproliferative, and proapoptotic effects compared with single purified active ingredients, probably the result of synergistic actions among the fruit's multiple compounds. Studies have shown that the antioxidant activity of the pomegranate flowers yielded activity two to three times the antioxidant potency of tea or red wine.

In studies of the fruit's anticancer effects, pomegranate fruit extract (PFE) has been found to be chemopreventive in mouse mammary organ culture and in human breast cancer cells in vitro. Researchers at the University of Wisconsin in Madison found that PFE significantly reduced serum prostate-specific antigen levels and inhibited proliferation of aggressive human prostate cancer cells in athymic mice. Pomegranate extracts have exerted antiproliferative, antiestrogenic, and proapoptotic actions on leukemia cells as well as breast- and prostate-cancer cells.

Its juice may be cardioprotective, reducing risk factors (such as cholesterol accumulation, foam-cell formation in macrophages, and oxidized low-density lipoprotein [LDL]) without affecting native LDL.
In a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study at the Preventive Medicine Research Institute in Sausalito, CA, pomegranate juice drinkers with coronary artery disease had a 17% improvement in blood flow compared with an 18% worsening in the control group. The study team concluded that the antioxidants in the juice may help prevent the formation of fatty deposits on artery walls. Australian researchers found that pomegranate flower extract reduced factors (hyperglycemia, hyperlipidemia, and a fatty heart) that can result in increased cardiac-impairing fibrosis in patients with type 2 diabetes. Other studies have shown the benefits of pomegranate in promoting neurologic health, maintaining joint integrity and function, exhibiting estrogenic properties, blocking herpes simplex virus replication and adsorption, enhancing immune function, treating periodontal disease, enhancing the activity of antibiotics used to treat methicillin-resistant and methicillin-sensitive Staphylococcus aureus infections, and preventing smooth muscle dysfunction and fibrosis in erectile dysfunction. In Ayurvedic medicine, the astringent properties of pomegranates are linked with bone and cartilage build-up; in the cosmetic arena, fruit-peel extract has been shown to stimulate a type of procollagen synthesis and inhibit a dermal degeneration process.The antioxidant, immune-boosting, and anticarcinogenic properties of the pomegranate, offers multiple potential medical applications.

Thanks Shari Henson for your contribution with this post.

Japanese Gardens (Videos)

2011-08-27T18:19:00.000-04:00

Zen Gardens (Videos)

2011-08-27T02:07:00.000-04:00

What does hydroponics mean?

2011-08-23T18:55:00.000-04:00

The term hydroponics is derived from two Greek words, Hudor , water and Ponos, work. When combined, these mean "water working" and a reference to the use of solutions of water and fertilizer chemicals for soilless plant cultivation, as opposed to normal growth in soil or geoponics (the care of the earth). Quite a number of different methods of hydroponics are today in general usage throughout the world, the exact choice depending upon local needs and conditions. However, they all conform to the same basic principles and all have one common objective: The growing of plants quite independently of earth or organic matter.

This capacity for divorcing the cultivation of flowers, vegetables, fruits and grains from the soil has profound implications for the development of horticulture and farming. In short, it means that mankind is no longer solely dependent on the land for sustenance and the satisfaction of natural desires for a beautiful environment, because gardeners and farmers can now produce lovely flowers and raise fine crops without any soil in almost any place they may wish.

Given a minimum supply of water, hydroponic units, both small and large, may be set up in towns and cities, for the enjoyment and use of urban populations, while people living in deserts or barren regions can raise quantities of attractive and healthy plants even under the very infertile conditions common in such areas.

Apart from these general considerations hydroponics also offers certain important advantages to the individual gardener or householder, including better quality plants, quicker growth, much saving of time and labour (with the elimination of troublesome tasks like digging, weeding and manuring), lower costs, complete absence of dirt and smells, extremely consistent results and year-round attractive displays of blooms or quantities of fresh green-stuff in the home.

The new simple methods, which are described in this book, make it possible for anyone to raise first-class plants without difficulty, even in the most congested surroundings. Housewives, flat and apartment dwellers, backyard or window-box gardeners, or those possessing roof space, indeed amateurs of every type, in any land, can now use hydroponics to brighten up their daily lives.

How a plant grows in hydroponics?

2011-08-23T18:38:00.000-04:00

Hydroponics is generally defined in modern encyclopedias and dictionaries as the science of growing plants without using soil by feeding them on solutions of water and mineral salts, instead of relying upon the traditional methods of cultivating the earth which most gardeners and farmers still continue to do in order to raise crops.

However, because such a description could sound a little complicated let us begin by thinking in simpler terms.

It is not always realized that hydroponics may be employed in numerous ways, ranging from the large scale production of commercial foodstuffs (flowers and fruits, through medium-sized office and community growing units, right down to smaller lots of colorful home blooms and indoor plants, or tasty vegetables and succulent salads for the household, or as a family hobby. This striking versatility of soilless culture, combined with the excellent results that can be obtained in all kinds of places, has made the system ideal for widely differing conditions. In fact, hydroponic gardening can be easier and more pleasant to do than ordinary soil gardening.

During the past few years an immense amount of scientific research has been undertaken to develop really simple and practical ways of growing plants without soil; methods which can be used confidently by amateurs and housewives. So do not be put off by something you have perhaps read about hydroponics being a complicated procedure requiring special skills or knowledge for success. On the contrary, simplified gardening without soil is basically straightforward, if you follow the few easy rules. Naturally, in big commercial units there has to be technical control, but for growing plants in the home or ordinary garden, backyard or window ledge, what matter most are love, care and ability to stick to the guidelines.

Bonsai Societies of Florida, FL. USA

2011-08-22T01:49:00.000-04:00

Bulbs species that grow well in the Deep South (Part 3)

2011-08-16T21:57:00.001-04:00

Narcissus can be well adapted or very picky, depending on the kind. There are many types, derived from several original species, native to mountainous regions of such places as the Caucasus. Enthusiasts have divided them into strict categories, based on floral form and habit, but not on adaptability. You frequently see clumps of yellow jonquils still growing on old home sites; the houses and people are long gone but jonquils remain. Where the land starts to rise from the coastal plain, you will find naturalized trumpet daffodils, such as the variety King Alfred. Few daffodils do well south of that line. Some varieties that do are Ice Follies, Fortune, Thalia (white), Tete-a Tete (dwarf and yellow), February Godl, and Baby Moon, whch has branched flower stems with one inch yellow flowers. Some of the old white narcissus that bloom in midwinter in the coastal south have been passed along for generations. Paper-white narcissus, often forced during winter, need no chilling period and if they are properly handled during shipping, are almost certain to bloom the first season from dry bulbs. After bloom these may be planted into the garden and, after a year to make new leaves and initiate new flowers, can repeat for years.

A longevity and performance study done at LSU identified several small-flowered bulbs that perform well and persist in south Louisiana and in other areas of the coastal South. These include Broiaea Laxa, which wens up striking blue flower clusters on stems about twelve inches tall before leaves grow in late spring. Scilla campanulata, sometimes called Canterbury bells, produces stems about a foot tall with clusters of one-inch, nodding, bell-like flowers (they can be blue, white or pink).

Triteleia uniflora sends up leaves in early winter, then one-inch star-shaped flowers on six-inch stems in early spring. These increase from offsets as well as seeds, and may invade the lawn near beds where they grow. Most people find this desirable, especially as it is too early to mow the grass. Later on, just mow over them.

One invader that can be troublesome is star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum). this grows about eight inches tall, with leaves emerging in early winter, and flwers in spring with clusters of white blooms with dark centers. Charming as they are, they produce huge numbers of offsets that spread throughout the bed, defying efforts to remove them.

Rain lillies, species of Habranthus and Zephyranthes can border beds without becoming a nuisance. These got the common name from their habit of respondingto rains, especially after dry spells, with a profusion of flowers. Some bloom as early as April in the humid South-some as late as September. Most are native to Mexico or to Central or South America-a few are native to the Gulf crescent from south Florida through coastal Texas. Severe cold limits the range of most. Flowers are usually from one to three inches across, lilylike on stems up to 18inch tall. Colors range from white and yellow through rose and pink; apricots and pure reds are known.
Cannnas used to be more popular back in the old days, because they take up a lot of space. There is a leaf roller insect that turns up wherever cannas are grown. This little critter presents a constant challenge to anyone who tries to keep cannas' foliage looking good.

Callas are old-fashioned plants that have been dramatically improved by breeders in recent years. We all thought that callas were like lillies as the tall, white zantedeschia aethipica with 3 foot stems. We also thought of them as plants for funerals, but the newr forms and species, especially Z. elliotiana (yellow) and Z. rehmannii (red) have some really "hot" colors and smaller plants, they would look out of place at a funeral. You can now choose from colors such as coral, pink, burgundy or yellow-some with attractive white spotted leaves. All of these will be damaged by hard freezes, but mulching will protect them into the mid-twenties, or they can be lifted and stored over colder periods.

We almost forgot to mention Leucojum aestivum, the snowflake. This small spring-flowering bulb can substitute for lily-of-the valley (convallaria), which does not do well in hot weather.

Snowflake makes stems about a foot tall with clusters of nodding, bell-like blooms, which are white with a distinctive green dot at the ends of the floral segments.

Thanks to Ed and Leon

Bulbs species that grow well in the Deep South (Part 2)

2011-08-16T21:38:00.001-04:00

Caladiums, mostly grown commercially on muck soils in south Florida, represent the other end of the climatic adaptability scale (they are tropicals) With reasonable care you can get several years of good performance from them. These should not be planted until the soil temperature is about 65 F or above. The tubers will not have roots at this time but you can tell which end is up: the bottoms are smooth and rounded, and there are several pointed buds on top. However, if you plant caladium upside down you will just get more, somewhat smaller, leaves than if you plant right-side up.

When greenhouse growers want caladiums to make more leaves for full pots, they often cut out the central, largest, bud. This allows the lateral buds, which would have been kept dormant by the large bud, to sprout. This central bud sometimes produces one large leaf, followed by the flower, which has a typical jack-in-the pulpit shape. Some of the flowers are quite pretty, but if you do not want flowers, break them off early. When the leaves mature and begin to die back in summer (they have a genetic tendency to do this), lift the tubers and let them dry in a cool place until the old dry leaves can be pulled off easily. Then store them in ventilated containers (old stocking or mesh bags are good) in a warm, but not hot, place until the soil warms up in spring.

There is a group of caladium varieties called strap-leafed; their leaves are lanceolate rather than heart-shaped. These have thicker leaves and are better suited for open sun. Those with heart-shaped leaves do better in partial shade (even though they are grown under full sun in south Florida).

Several kinds of irises are well adapted to the humid South; one group originated in Louisiana. The bulbous irises are called Dutch iris. The parent species are native to Spain and northern Africa; it seems that everything the Dutch grow is called Dutch. Some selections of Dutch irises will establish and persist in our climate, but many are no happier here than are tulips.

Louisiana irises have a color range surpassing that of the other groups. Hobbyist breeders have improved the form and colors far beyond those you see in our swamps. These are very tough plants with relatively few problems and will grow despite poor soil drainage that would kill many bulbous plants. This does not mean that they require poor drainage; like most plants they respond to care. They grow well in partial shade but need full sun to bloom. The bloom period is from early spring into early summer. After several seasons of growth the rhizomes usually branch, older leaves are shed, and bare sections of the rhizomes appear between newer leaves. This is a good time to dig, divide, replant and share the extra rhizomes with friends.

Japanese iris also thrives in the South, producing large, relatively flat flowers. These vary in color and form, with some having wider floral segments than others. Like the Louisiana irises, they grow from rhizomes as well as from seed. Hobbyists have made great improvements in these also.

You will see lots of Lycoris radiata, the red spider lily or hurricane lily, which blooms in the fall before its leaves emerge. Other species of Lycoris are not as well adapted to the coastal South but ill do well a bit farther north. These include yellows, flesh colors, coral shades and in the case of L. squamigera (surprise Lily), pink flowers on two-foot stems in July. It seems to us that, with only a little effort, breeders could improve the climatic range of these attractive plants......(to be continued)

Bulbs species that grow well in the Deep South (Part 1)

2011-08-16T21:22:00.001-04:00

It is encouraging to see that professional gardeners, people who landscape commercial buildings, have been using more agapanthus in our area. This is called the "blue lily of the Nile", and has both white-and purple- flowered forms in addition to blue. These are robust plants, producing flowers in summer on three-foot stems. There are some dwarf forms available for other landscape uses or for containers. These plants do better in partial shade than under our intense sunlight. After about five years (in a good location) the plants will become overcrowded; divide them and share with your neighbors. Agapanthus is a hardy plant that is seldom frozen in the Deep South.

Amaryllis ( or Hippeastrum) differs from tulips and other periodic bulbs in that it has no built-in life span, but is theoretically immortal. These bulbs are composed of fleshy bases of large, strap-shaped leaves and a conical basal plate, sometimes with dried, but functional roots. Left to its own devices the amaryllis is evergreen. In the growth cycle of the bulb, there are four-leaf increments produced, with the bases of three leaves completely surrounding the basal plate and short stem. The base of the fourth leaf in each growth unit only partially surrounds these parts. The flower bud begins in the axil of this fourth leaf. This develops within the bulb and emerges later in response to some unknown stimuli. A large amaryllis (around 3 or 4 inches in diameter) may have several of these potential flowers, ready to emerge when things are right.
Amaryllis that you see at the garden center are usually hybrids that originated in England many years ago from several South American species, sent there by plant explorers back in the heyday of that activity. Dutch bulb growers, having long experience with tulips, bought the hybrids from the English firms and began exporting what is called the Dutch amaryllis. Dutch growers began large-scale production of amaryllis bulbs in South Africa. You can find these South African bulbs for sale in the fall, ready to bloom at Christmas time in our area. This is because they were grown in the southern hemisphere, where Christmas is in the spring. After the first year the bulbs will reset their internal clock and begin blooming during our spring rather than in the South African Spring. Dutch amaryllis hybrids produce massive scapes (flowering stems of bulbs), usually with four flowers.

Until now, we have been talking about the Dutch hybrids. The amaryllis species offers a range of flower forms, colors and sizes. The first known amaryllis hybrid (Amaryllis x Johnsonii) used to be common in the humid South and was known as St. Joseph's lily, probably because it usually bloomed in mid-March outdoors, near St. Joseph's feast day. Several untimely hard freezes over the past twenty years have made it a a rare plant here in the South.

Most amaryllis bulbs will survive cold snaps if they are well mulched. In colder areas, they should be taken up in the late fall and stored cool and dry until the danger of temperatures below about 25 F is over.....(to be continued)

Insect and Disease: Elm trees (Ulmus spp)

2011-07-31T23:45:00.001-04:00

Elms are alternate-leaved, deciduous trees valued for their ornamental use as specimen or street trees. There was a time when virtually every town and city in the northeaster United States was dominated by the majestic, vase-shaped American Elm (ulmus american); unfortunately, with the appearance and spread of Dutch elm disease (DED), many of them have died.

Because most elms are susceptible to so many insects and diseases, you might want to avoid using them in the landscape, but they are perfectly suitable for beautiful bonsai (specially the Zelkova species). If you do decide to grow elms, consider planting lacebark elm (U. parvifolia), which is more resistant to DED and elm leaf beetles.

Plant elms in spring or fall as bare-root or balled-and-burlapped trees. Full sun and well-drained soils are best.

Problems:

Leaves with rectangular holes or skeletonized: Cause: Elm leaf beetles. this is a 1/4inch yellow-green beetle with a dark line on the outer edge of each wing cover. It lays its eggs in spring on the undersides of leaves; these eggs hatch in June. One to several generations may occur each year.

Both adults and the 1/2inch black-spotted, yellow larvae feed on the leaves, eating everything but the veins. Trees are often defoliated and so weakened that they are susceptible to other insect and disease problems. Control beetles by spraying leaves with BTSD, particularly in June.

Leaves wilted and yellow or brown, drop early, branches show symptoms one at a time: Cause: Dutch elm disease (DED).

Caused by a fungus, DED is spread by the feeding of elm barck beetles, and by natural root grafts between trees growing in the same area. Keep trees healthy with proper pruning, mulching, and watering (during drought). Quickly repair all wounds to help prevent insect attacks and subsequent infection. Once the disease is established, there is no effective remedy. Remove and immediately destroy all diseased or dying elms. Remove the stump if possible or peel the barck off to below the soil line to deter elm bark beetles from feeding there.

Bark tunneled: Cause: Elm bark beetles.
These 1/10inch dark reddish brown beetles attack weakened elm trees and serve as vectors of DED. The adult beetles bore small holes through the bark and lay eggs in the wood beneath. The eggs hatch into 1/4inch curved, white grubs that continue to mine underneath the bark, creating winding tunnels, known as galleries. See the opposite page for an illustration of their damage. The grubs transform into adult beetles, which emerge through small holes in the bark. If the tree they emerge from was infected with DED, the beetles will carry the disease spores as they fly away to feed on other elm trees.

Make trees less attractive to beetles by promoting vigorous, healthy growth with proper pruning, mulching, and watering (during drought). Eliminate breeding areas by removing and destroying weak and dying trees.

Leaves skeletonized: Cause: Canker-worms. Both spring and fall cankerworms are 1/2-1inch yellow or greenish caterpillars that feed on the foliage of birches, often defoliating the tree.

Japanese beetles. This 1/2inch long pest has a metallic blue-green body and bronze wing covers. Hand pick in early morning if there are only a few. Apply milky disease spores to your lawn for long-term control.

Leaves wilted and yellow or brown, drop early, entire crown of tree affected: Cause: Phloem necrosis. In later stages, the inner bark (phloem) is discolored and smells faintly of wintergreen. This disease, also known as elm yellows, kills plants quickly, often in single growing season. It is spread from tree to tree by leafhoppers.

Controlling leafhoppers by spraying infested plants with insecticidal soap or pyrethrin may reduce the spread of phloem necrosis. If trees are close together, however, the disease can also spread underground by means of natural root grafts. Once plants are infected, there is no control: remove and destroy the infected trees.

Another examples of pests affecting the Ulmus spp.:

Leaves wrinkled and discolored: Cause: Aphids
Leaves tunneled: Cause: Leafminers
Leaves yellow; stems and leaves covered with small bumps: Cause: Scales
Trunk or branches with small holes; limbs die or break off: Cause: Borers
Trunk or branches with oozing lesions; branch tips die back: Cause: Canker
Leaves with spots: Cause: Leaf spots
Leaves with powdery white coating: Cause Powdery mildew

The History of Herbs (Medicinal Remedies)

2011-07-30T12:58:00.001-04:00

Since earl times plants have provided the medicinal remedies of the human race. The whole structure of modern pharmacopeia is based on man's historical knowledge of flowers, herbs, plants and trees. Nature has provided a complete storehouse of herbal remedies to cure all ills of mankind, and today's medicines are only the chemical-pharmaceutical translations of the healing properties of herbs. Looking back through history, we find there is not a single plant that has not been used at one time or another by men as a foodstuff, a healing, life giving medicine, or a deadly poison. Since the dawn of civilization man has fed on berries, fruits, grasses, herbs, leaves and roots. His selection of vegetable food in these prehistoric times was entirely by trial and error. He continued to eat the plants that agreed with him while remaining away from those that made him ill. After man mastered the use of fire, the roasted flesh of animals came into the foreground of the human diet and he began the domestication of animals for his daily needs.

The shepherds of the tribal community flocks, remaining close to nature and having plenty of time during their lonely tasks, observed the behavior of various plants and the effects on their animal charges. In this way they became the sages and medicine men of their tribes. These herb-wise shepherds and medicine men of prehistoric times developed into the herbalists of ancient Persia and the philosophers of antiquity. In addition to their necessary food-plants, all the old agricultural nations cultivated herbs for their medicinal needs. In the early days of the Christian Church, the cultivation of herbs was forbidden. Knowledge of herbs was considered pagan because of the many mystic and magical rites connected with their use. In the Dark Ages many of the herbal manuscripts of early days were destroyed by the martial rulers and their mercenaries who were devoid of any interest in science and culture. The knowledge of herbs and their properties was kept alive only by the monks in the seclusion and comparative security of their monasteries. They studied, translated and copied painstakingly by hand again and again, the few remaining herbals for posterity. In the later Middle Ages the cultivation of herbs was again taken up by monks and nuns, who were not only healers of the soul, but also physicians and nurses to their flocks.

The herb garden, called Physick Garden , became part and parcel of every cloister and monastery and, later on, of every castle, court, hospital and medical college. Alembic laboratories, or distilling plants, the nuclei of our modern pharmaceutical industry, were set up in monasteries and hospitals to convert the herb crop into medical potions and liquors. The rise of the chemical-pharmaceutical industry made the bulk of these herbal concoctions obsolete, but we still use many as spices and condiments for our food, in medicinal teas and infusions, and monastery herb liquors such as Benedictine, Peres Chartreuse, Trappistine and others continue to serve as stomachic tonics. Throughout human history, flowers, plants, trees and herbs became so interwoven with man's daily life that they developed into symbols for his expressions and sentiments, passions and affections, fears and superstitions. In ancient mythology, folklore and legend, the fertile mind assigned to plants their medicinal and nutritive properties. The religious, legendary and symbolic meaning attached to plants has been handed down to us through the ages and today we still use many special plants in accordance with their age-old symbolism, as at Easter, Christmas, St. Patrick's and numerous other holidays and special occasions.

Thanks Ernst Lehner.

The History of Agriculture

2011-07-30T12:29:00.002-04:00

Untold millenia ago the cave man consumed as vegetable food the leaves, stalks, roots, fruits, nuts and seed gathered by the women and children of his tribe in the jungles and forests surrounding his habitat. He was forced to drift north and south with the seasons in pursuit of his food. One day he discovered that the seed dropped by accident near his cave grew into new seed-producing plants. It gave him the idea of planting seeds purposely near his dwelling place and, finally of clearing a patch of ground, preparing it by loosening the sod with a crooked stick. (the first hoe), and seeding it. Thus man changed from a nomadic poacher roaming for food to a settled farmer, waiting for his next harvest. With the growth of the tribe, more and more cleared acreage became necessary to meet the rising demand for food, and more manpower was needed to prepare and till the fields. Ultimately, man decided that the established law of the jungle, to kill all this enemies (the members of other tribes) immediately after they were taken prisoner on his hunting forays, was wasteful. He brought them home and put them to work on his fields, the first forced-labor slaves in human history. They call for still more intensive food production for the rising population of these settlements led to the idea of harnessing domesticated animals to the hoe. Thus the plow became the new tool of agriculture.

Agriculture is the scientific term for the art of cultivation the soil.

The word is derived from the Latin Ager (field) and cultura (tilling).

The practice of agriculture was the necessary antecedent to a higher form of cultural development, and wherever great states and empires were founded, cereals were grown as staple food.

The cultures of antiquity were all built around the agricultural centers of gran-growing peoples: The Chinese, Indians, Koreans and Japanese in Asia; the Sumerians, Babylonians, Assyrians, Hittites, Phoenicians, Israelites and Syrians in the Near East; the Egyptians, Lydians, Nubians and Carthaginians in Africa; the Cretans, Greeks, Etruscans and Romans in Europe; the Incas, Mayas and Aztecs in South and Central America. When we look at the farming methods and implements in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, we marvel at the thought that for nearly 7000 years of agricultural development the methods and tools of the toilers in the fields did not change very much. In our century of industrialization we saw the rise of the mechanical behemoths of modern farming machinery, the reaper and the cotton gin, which not only boomed the agrarian economy of western nations but enhanced the process of industrialization and became a leading factor in the eventual establishment of the western nations as great world markets. Newer developments in the field of chemistry led to still further uses for the products of agriculture. Thus today we find need for plants and herbs not only as sources of food, clothing and medicine, but for such hundreds of newly developed industrial needs as tagger the imagination. However, we have to realize that to this very day in large parts of South America, Africa and the Far East the agricultural methods and the farming tools are still nearly the same as in Biblical times.

Thanks Johanna Lehner

How to feed your bonsai (Part 2)

2011-07-27T21:29:00.001-04:00

Fertilizing:

Most plants in most soils will grow better if additional nutrients are provided b fertilizing. A soil test will give a complete and accurate measure of the nutrients in the soil. A general recommendation is that all soils need more nitrogen. Shallow-rooted plants, such as grass and flowers, need more phosphorus and potassium. Acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, junipers and pin oaks, often need more iron. Sometimes sandy soils need micronutrients, but rarely clay soils. Certain micronutrients may be deficient in certain parts of the country. Boron is sometimes deficient in America's Pacific Northwest (as I was told by a friend).

Many fertilizers are available to supply additional nutrients. Some fertilizers only supply one nutrient. Many supply N, P and K ONLY!!!. A few fertilizers include all the macronutrients and micronutrients (to review the list of macro and micro nutrients check Part 1 of this series Here!!!)

The label on the package will indicate which nutrients are included, as well as the sources of the nutrients. The nutrients are identical, whether they come from organic or synthetic source, but the source will affect how quickly the nutrients are available to the plants. Ammonia sulfate and water soluble fertilizers release most of their nitrogen in a few days, and may burn plants if too much is applied. Blood meal releases its nitrogen over a period of months. Organic fertilizers and specially treated synthetic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, so they last longer and will not burn. Deeper-rooted trees and shrubs can be fertilized once a year, but shallow-rooted plants, such as grass and flowers, will need regular fertilizing throughout the growing season.

Water can move nitrogen several centimeters in the soil. Nitrogen applied in the fall may be carried too deep into the soil by winter rains. February and March is the best time to feed trees and shrubs. Phosphorus and potassium hardly move in the soil. To get them down to tree roots, punch a hole in the soil with a bar, or use a root-feeder and inject them 12 inches (30cm) deep every 24 inches (60cm) in rings from the trunk to twice the length of the branches. The feeder roots are found throughout the area under and around a tree, not just at the drip line.

Thanks Rod Smith.

Products that contain micronutrients.

Micronutrients are supplied in special micronutrients packages (such as MicroMax, STEM, Apex micronutrient package and others) which bind readily to organic matter if used in conjunction with soilless mixes.

The micronutrient mix is sprinkled on the surface of dry soil and then watered in. It will increase the acidity of the soil temporarily and is best applied when repotting, or once a year in spring, at bud break.

Back to Basics:

Bonsai will need feeding if you use the single-soil approach as they cannot live on water alone. Feeding is easy, and here is a breakdown of feeds and the basic regime.

A high Nitrogen feed makes the leaves grow.
A low Nitrogen feed makes the branches, roots and cambium (under bark) grow.
I recommend the low nitrogen feed for maples trees in the early flush of growth as it helps the leaves to become stronger. Use it in the later part of the year, just prior to Fall or in the winter season in colder climates. Then at the very start of the growing season to encourage the development of branches and roots.
0.10.10 or similar is a Zero Nitrogen feed. This is used with most conifers at the beginning of the season and through the early stages of bud or candle development.
Acid loving plants: Use Miracid or similar (Azaleas, satsukis, ericas and stewartia)

For young trees:

In SPRING use at half-strength when the buds are open 0-10-10. Then builds to full strength in late spring and use High Nitrogen after the first flush of growth. Feed half-strength through most of the growing season in hotter areas.

In SUMMER if in a hot area, do not fertilize. If in a cool area, stop in midsummer. The trees cannot absorb fertilizer at this time: they go to into Semi-dormancy because of the heat and stop growing. (I have learned that after having bad experiences, after leaving 4 years in Miami, FL)

In FALL reduce to half-strength and only use a Low-Nitrogen fertilizer. This helps the bonsai into the main dormant season in cooler climes.

Brand names varies from country to country or even from city to city or by Nurseries but in general it is fine to use popular houseplant food, but not lawn or grass food because it is far too high in nitrogen and can easily damage the roots.

For Mature trees:

I suggest that surface pellet feeds, such as Rapeseed Cake or Bio Gold are the best option. The direct feeding of liquid fertilizers through the soil should be no more than between two and four times a year when a bonsai is mature. Too much feeding will generate lush growth. Adding trace elements is, however, important. In all cases, when dealing with older trees, less is more.

Please, leave your comment, and advise for the next posts. We really appreciate your feedback.

How to feed your bonsai (Part 1)

2011-07-16T23:36:00.000-04:00

Rod Smith has shared his knowledge with us and now it is time for you to learn from the master.

Let's start by learning the basic concepts about the nutrients, and then we will learn how, when and why to use them.

Macronutrients and Micronutrients

Plant need water, air, light, a suitable temperature and 16 nutrients to grow. Plants get carbon, hydrogen and oxygen from air and water. The other 13 nutrients come from the soil. Soil nutrients are divided into two groups according to the amounts needed by plants.

The macronutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium and Sulphur.

The micronutrients, which are needed only in trace amounts, are iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper, molybendum and chlorine.

These nutrients are essential for plant growth. Plants will grow normally until they run short of one nutrient. Then growth is limited by the availability of that nutrient. Occasionally, two or more nutrients will run short at the same time. If the nutrients are deficient, or too abundant, then plants will be discolored or deformed. The deficiency symptoms will indicate which nutrient or nutrients are needed. However, it is much better to supply additional nutrients before deficiency symptoms appear. A soil test will tell which nutrients are low before growth is affected.

Macronutrients:

Nitrogen, N : Stimulates leaf and stem growth. Nitrogen deficiency causes reduced growth and pale-yellowish-green leaves. The older leaves turn yellowish first since the nitrogen is readily moved from the old leaves to the new growth. If the soil is cold and wet, nitrogen in the soils is not as available to the plants. Excess nitrogen may cause potassium deficiency.

Phosphorus, P: It is important in the germination and growth of seeds, the production of flowers and fruit and the growth of roots. Phosphorus deficiency causes reduce growth and small leaves that drop early, starting with the oldest leaves. Leaf color is a dull, bluish green that becomes purplish or bronzed. Leaf edges often turn scorched brown. Excess phosphorus may cause potassium deficiency.

Potassium, K: Promotes general vigor, disease resistance and sturdy growth. Potassium deficiency causes stunted growth, with the leaves positioned close together. Starting with the older leaves, the leaf tips and edges turn scorched brown and the leaf edges roll up. Excess potassium may cause calcium and magnesium deficiencies.

Calcium, Ca: It is a major ingredient in cell walls and is important for root growth, especially that of the root tips. Calcium deficiency causes poorly developed roots with weak tips. Leaves are distorted, with hooked tips and curled margins.

Magnesium, Mg: It is a vital for chlorophyll production, and is important in most enzyme reactions. Magnesium deficiency causes different symptoms in different plants, but commonly includes leaf-yellowing, with brilliant tints. Leaves may suddenly drop off without withering. Symptoms show first on older leaves. Excess magnesium may cause calcium deficiency.

Sulfur, S: It is an ingredient in proteins and is necessary for chlorophyll formation. Sulfur deficiency causes slow growth, with small, round leaves that roll upward and are stiff and brittle. Leaves drop off and tips buds die.

Micronutrients:

Iron, Fe: It is necessary for chlorophyll formation and for oxygen transfer. Iron deficiency causes leaf-yellowing, while leaf veins stay green. Younger leaves are affected first. Excess lime may cause iron deficiency.

Manganese, Mn: It is a catalyst for many enzymes, and is important for chlorophyll formation. Manganese deficiency causes different symptoms in different plants, but commonly causes leaves to turn yellow, while veins stay green. White or gray specks may appear on leaves. Older leaves are affected first. Excess manganese may cause iron deficiency, and may cause symptoms similar to manganese deficiency.

Boron, B: It is necessary for the movement of sugars, for reproduction and for water intake by cells. It also tends to keep calcium in a soluble form. Boron deficiency causes distorted and dead growing tips, hollow stems and deformed fruit. Leaves are often scorched and curled and are sometimes mottled and discolored. Young leaves are affected first. Excess boron may cause scorched leaf edged similar to that caused by potassium or magnesium deficiencies.

Zinc, Zn: It is necessary for the production of proteins and affects plant size and maturity. Zinc deficiency causes leaf-yellowing between the veins, usually with purple or dead spots, starting with the older leaves. Leaves are positioned close together, and are small and deformed. Fruiting is reduced. Excess Zinc may cause iron deficiency.

Copper, Cu: It is necessary for the production of proteins and is also important for reproduction. Copper deficiencies cause bluish-green leaves that may wither or fail to unfold. Younger leaf tips may be yellow at the edges. Growing tips may form rosettes. Excess copper may cause iron deficiency.

Molybdenum, Mo: It is essential to nitrate enzymes and for the formation of root nodules in beans and peas. Mo deficiencies cause yellow mottling and dead spots on the leaves. In some plants, the growing tips are distorted or killed.

Chlorine, Cl: It may affect carbohydrate metabolism and photosynthesis. Chlorine deficiencies may cause stubby roots and wilting. Excess chlorine may cause leaf edges to scorch in a similar way to that caused by potassium deficiency.

(Do not forget to review about feeding your orchids Here!!!!)