Here's a moment:
Here's a moment:
Obviously, I was looking forward to the opening of Chef John Tesar's Spoon Bar & Kitchen in Preston Center for some time.
Everyone knows John and I are buddies - (I have no financial interest in the
restaurant, however I have consulted on certain design elements).
Regardless, it is my opinion that Spoon is excellent and is another
important chapter in the renaissance of the Dallas dining scene.
As the critics chime in (Dallas Observer, Modern Luxury, Dallas Morning News) the consensus has been extremely positive - I concur ...and I get around. This place is good.
But critics are not always able to experience a restaurant with the depth afforded a devoted, food obsessed patron.
With that in mind, I'll do what I do best - here are a bunch of
pictures from some of the many meals I've enjoyed at Spoon, along with my trademark sentence fragments:
Spoon already has a crowd of devoted regulars and still sees its share of curious customers looking for a glimpse of the deftly crafted character Tesar has created and Top Chef promoted - "The Most Hated Chef in Dallas."
^Crudos
^L: Oyster and Truffle Stew
^L: Lobster Pot Pie
^ Remarkable Smoked Sturgeon Head Cheese.
Sommelier Sabrina Snodderley's wine program features interesting and nicely priced selections that match wonderfully with the food. John and Sabrina continue to add depth to the White Burgundy program - music to my ears.
Tesar's passion and pedigree are reflected in the constantly evolving menu of exceptional seafood dishes as well as other "Not Fish" selections (not pictured, lol.)
The recent addition of David Collier as pastry chef completes the meal in an artful manner - creative, whimsical and delicious:
To be sure, Tesar has his fair share of haters, and now - many more devotees. He is without question an outstanding seafood chef.
Spoon is easily one of the most important and exceptional new
Dallas restaurants to open in some time. The city's diners, critics, and even bloggers need to support and
encourage more of this passionate risk-taking and attention to detail -
not
less. ...and the place also has a cool logo.
As The French Laundry chef de cuisine Timothy Hollingsworth prepares to hand over the reigns to his executive sous chef David Breeden, we popped in for a blowout.
Here's what went down (and nicely, I might add):
^L: Amuse.
^R: "OYSTERS AND PEARLS"
"Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar.
^L: "OEUFS EN GELEE" Royal Ossetra Caviar. Brioche "Soldiers." Lobster "Salpicon" and Scaliion Salad.
^R: Beurre
^L: SALAD OF FRENCH LAUNDRY GARDEN FENNEL Tokyo Turnips. Sour Michigan Cherries. Sicilian Pistachios and Mache.
^R: "KOULIBIAC" OF COLUMBIA RIVER STURGEON "Pomme Puree," Nantes Carrots and Tarragon Jus.
^R: SWEET BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER "FRICASSEE" Caraway Melba. Heirloom Beets. Melted Cabbage and Horseradish Creme Fraiche.
^L: RUSSET POTATO GNOCCHI with Shaved Black Winter Truffles.
^R: Some old bottle of wine...
^L: SALMON CREEK FARMS PORK BELLY "EN FEUILLE DE BRICK" Gamet Yam.. Brussels Sprouts. Pearson Farm Pecans. Noble Maple Syrup and Black Truffle.
^R: HERB-ROASTED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB SADDLE Pearl Barley. Creamed Mushrooms. Petite Onions. Mizuna and Sauce "Soubise."
^R: "BREBIS DES PYRENEES" Moroccan Olive. Piquillo Pepper Marmalade. Pine Nuts. Eggplant and Olive Oil Jam.
^L: POMEGRANATE "SODA" Jasmine Ice Cream and "Fleur de Sel" Shortbread.
^R: PASSION FRUIT "SWISS ROLL" Valrhona Chocolate Cremeux, Caramel Mousse and Banana Ice Cream.
^R: "Coffee and Doughnuts>"
What's not to like? A wonderful experience.
On a side note: It's nice to realize after a meal like this just what talent we have here in Dallas. Bruno Davaillon's tasting menu at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek is equally superb. An omakase meal from Teiichi Sakurai at Tei-An is equally sublime. Enjoy!
We've had time to mourn the passing of Anthony Bombaci's Nana Restaurant, the previous occupant of the 27th floor of the Hilton Anatole Hotel - now let's look at the handsome replacement - SER Steak + Spirits. Yes, another steakhouse - but this one is pretty cool.
^ Selections from a unique collection of early 20th century "Mascots" (hood ornaments) accent the dramatic entry.
The room has been opened up a bit and the textures and surfaces exude a clubby elegance. I joined my friend (a guest of the house) for dinner last week:
^L: Nifty new iPad wine list is actually fun and informative.
^R: Duck Rillette & Jamon Iberico.
^A dramatic and delicious Wagyu “Big” Rib: sous-vide and served with chocolate glaze, basil, green mango.
We also had (Not pictured) the 7oz Wagyu “Spinalis”: w/ fingerling potato and a nice house "SER steak sauce;" Creamed Corn: candied cipollini onions, popped corn; House-Made Tator Tots: house-made ketchup; Hen of the Woods: lightly grilled, garlic, parsley. All nicely done.
^L: Pistachio Layer Cake: morello cherry compote.
^R: Butternut-Apple Crisp: yogurt-pecan ice cream.
^The communal table and open kitchen are very inviting.
I know - we don't need another steakhouse - but one could argue that this hotel does. The result is a beautiful room with stunning views and a rather nice menu from Exec Chef Anthony Van Camp. With the design district about to be a culinary hot-bead, the Anatole doesn't seem so far off the beaten path these days. I will be going back.
After a bit of recent social media chatter, I realized I had yet to visit Mesa Veracruz Coastal Cuisine on West Jefferson in Oak Cliff. My friend, Mesa neighbor Jim Richardson of Oak Cliff Cellars, suggested we run over there. Jim's wines will be featured on the new Mesa patio, and he is also planning some fun wine dinners with the Mesa folks.
Mesa strikes a pose on the bustling little strip of West Jefferson between Beckley and Zang - just a couple blocks from 35E.
The Reyes family - with Olga and Raul in the kitchen, daughter Jaret front of the house and Raul Jr on the floor - radiate genuine enthusiasm for the cuisine and the guests. The rest of the staff is equally warm and helpful. Let's eat:
^L: Surtido Veracruzano: enfijoladas, plantanos rellenos, empanada, picadas.
^R: Robalo and Gulf shrimp Ceviche. Nice.
^L: Chilpachol de Jaiba y Camaron: spicy seafood broth with fresh crab, Gulf shrimp, dumplings, mussels. The broth was remarkable.
^R: Sopa de Lentejas: lentil soup with pork ribs, plantains, tomato, boiled egg.
^L: Costillas en Adobo: pork ribs in red chile and plantain sauce, jasmine rice.
^R: Huachinango ala Veracruzana: fillet of Gulf snapper sauteed with stewed onions, capers, olives, tomato, jalapeños, carrots.
^ and my destination dish, Mole Mama Cata: Chef Olga's unique mole with over 20 ingredients, recipe has passed down from her mother Catalina. Here with duck. Mole, Mole, Mole! Just divine.
^L: Chocoflan Flan de Naranja; Tres Leches; Arroz con Leche.
We enjoyed both the meal and the convivial atmosphere this Friday night. I think they could use some support during the week as well - so head on over and enjoy this little "joya."