The Clothes Whisperer: the fashion blog with wit that sparkles

Outfits & Atmosphere: Stockholm Fashion Week Day 3

2012-02-15T02:26:00.001Z

Stockholm Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: MiniMarket

2012-02-15T02:02:00.000Z

Excluding the reigning queens of Scandi-chic Dagmar, MiniMarket, the Alice & Olivia, if you will, of Sweden claimed the favorite-show runner-up position on my Stockholm Fashion Week radar.

Looking to magic and magicians for inspiration, MiniMarket brought the one and only Rossy de Palma (who also walked for Manish Arora last season a designer that has also incorporated the black mystique of the turn-of-the-century magician into his Autumn/Winter 2011 collection) to open and close the show while working not a few magic tricks along the way.

Inspired by vaudeville and Houdini, the showing of the actual collection (contemporarily wrought with sequin embroidery adorning sheer tulle trousers, handmade pleats and braided details adding a richness to pin down suits, wide leg trousers and cape tops) was interspersed by the charming antics of Dame De Palma and her lovely sword-swallowing assistant.

Stockholm Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Day 2/3

2012-02-15T01:46:00.000Z

Better late than never...the final two days of Stockholm Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012

A MASSIVE tak to the Swedish Fashion Council and Varg PR for having me along! xx

The Local Firm

H&M Design Award (won by Stine Riis)

Oscar Jacobson

Déjà Vu

Outfits & Atmosphere: NYFW AW12-Days 2/3

2012-02-15T01:24:00.001Z

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Tommy Hilfiger Womens

2012-02-14T22:58:00.001Z

Walking into the historic Park Avenue Armoury for the second time this week to discover that Tommy Hilfiger had left his sprawling recreation of autumnal Central Park from the menswear show, complete with trees laden with russet foliage and a red, ‘brick road’ catwalk, virtually intact (the park tables swapped for park benches to accommodate a larger number of guests) was the give away that the womens' collection was to be an extension of the mens' and not a different beast altogether as is the case with so many brands.

If the Tommy Man for Fall 2012 was inspired by the lifestyle of the young cadet at academy, the Tommy Woman was certainly the gal he left behind back on Park Avenue (where else?). The modern military man's companion herself occupies the spheres of both her husband and those back home--at once preppy in an elegantly conservative way but also not shying from the sporting life that so conditions her partner's active duty lifestyle. She is as much at ease at the hunt club as she is at those of the Upper East Side.

Championing a classic aesthetic with a modern spirit, equestrian themes carried over from the menswear collection were worked into rich fall looks that will appeal to preppy women of all ages. The starting point for silhouettes was the coat which spawned dresses, suiting and cocktail dresses with outerwear sensibilities.

Pea coats and trenches were rendered in printed shearling, bonded leather and Melton wool with a nod to a 60s military influence. Glen plaid and houndstooth were given a twist in unexpected scales and youthful silhouettes, while quilted suede adorned with the same metallic zips that toughened up the boys offered a luxurious yet contemporary take on the hunting suit.

Menswear patterns were reinterpreted in silk dresses with equestrian cable knit prints and pleated chiffon backs cascading like skirts at the backs of checked coats. Evening was grounded in classic silhouettes redone with tuxedo and metallic windowpane adorning fluttering crepe long-sleeved dresses and tunics.

WhisperViews: Backstage Post-Show With Thakoon, NYFW Autumn/Winter 2012

2012-02-14T18:09:00.001Z

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Thakoon

2012-02-14T18:09:00.000Z

Thakoon Panichgul is truly one of the most gifted young designers in New York; a young talent whose zeal for his craft is dully matched by the boundlessness of his vision, meriting the hope of a bright future for American design so long as people like him are in the mix.

After last season's journey to India via the Wild Wild West, for Autumn/Winter 2012, Thakoon rode the boat back to Ellis Island, old New York and the Plaza Hotel to try his hand at dark romance. Installation artist Ed Kienholz inspired the designer's mood of abstracting what he described to me backstage as a "romantic vision...longing and seductive."

The result was a collection that ticked all the polished boxes of ladylike gentle-dressing (pencil skirts, bow details at dress backs, bejewelled satin cocktail shifts) but with a Thakoon twist, that is to say, technical nuance at the level of design and details, in particular, a careful attention to and playful experimentation with silhouettes--even the simplistic slip found itself sculpted into something else entirely.

Construction of dresses, jackets and coats were intricate, seams rounded, with hips and shoulder sculpted and padded out to create an emphasized hourglass shape, imbuing even the most prepubescent of models with womanly curves.

"I wanted to explore the idea of dressing up in New York," explained Thakoon backstage. "There hasn't been much of that lately and I wanted polish it up a bit, but do it in a modern way." Thakoon's own personal variety of contemporary polish includes fabrics such as Mongolian fur, foiled knitwear, basket-weave backed trenches and crinkled patent leather combined and constructed to create elegant shapes.

Elastic cinching of materials like leather added a modern touch to the grown-up girls and created seductive shapes whilst adding volume without detracting from the shape of the body. Lustful scarlet gleaned from infamous and illicit red lights was the starting point of the color palette and a flirtatious nod to a unique take on modern sensuality that recognizes both the seedy and the sophisticated facets of 21st century feminine desire.

"It's every girl's dream to be in a romantic mood," mused Thakoon in the twenty-four hour run-up to Valentine's Day, and after his show, you won't find this blogger bursting his charmed bubble...at least not til February 15th.

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Backstage at Thakoon

2012-02-14T17:15:00.001Z

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Diane Von Furstenberg

2012-02-14T16:58:00.001Z

The partnership between Diane Von Furstenberg and Yvan Mispelaere continues to prove to be a harmonious one. Case in point, yesterday's Autumn/Winter 2012 show, a pristinely executed exercise in overhauling the jewel tone and breathing new life into the DVF DNA of drape and print.

The show was glossed with that same polish that has seized the runways of New York like a sleek disease, a kind of uptown lady-like finish focused on simplicity of styling and strictness of silhouette. Draping was resplendent, lines instead of layers added to volume with the curves of both the fabric and the fabric upon the body emphasized. Complete with contrast-two-toned opera gloves, sleek silhouettes and super-smooth hair, gone was the roving bohemian woman of DVF seasons past, here instead was a kind of French sophistication rendered accessible to the American market, femme with just a gesture towards fatale.

The collection also was tinged with quasi-Japanese underpinning--but a la Francais--meaning Poiret-style cocoon coats (a mustard boucle rendition was particularly covetable), appliqué cherry blossoms, kimono wrap dresses that were echoed in flare trousers and even a black polo-necked top printed with white outstretched hands conjuring to mind the enigmatic proverb of "one hand clapping." By the time Dame Diane and Yvan emerged hand in hand for their slow saunter around the runway, there was definitely more than one hand ringing out in thunderous applause.

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: DKNY

2012-02-13T15:21:00.001Z

I'm not sure if all this talk of Eurozone defaulting, the tumultuous atmosphere discharged by the Republican primaries and the general state of the world at large during the first womenswear show season of 2012, but designers seem to me to be stripping back to their core DNA, focusing on doing what they do best and playing things a touch safe. And who can blame them? Better to sell than shutter any day.

Thus it was at DKNY, where Donna turned out an army of girls clad head to toe in black, urban separates, the de facto uniform of the true New Yorker and of course the core of the brand (in case one could not glean that inclination from the black and white skyscrapers printed on the runway and the DKNY-topped yellow cab parked at catwalk's entrance).

The look was clean, simple yet sleek, with contrast and detail coming through via the contrast of textures of leather, faux fur and the occasional demure navy blue floral or black and white graphic print.

Silhouettes were clean and androgynous in the first movement of the show, and leather cum shearling snoods resembling the chicest of neck braces glossed the girls with just a bit more edge than DKNY's usual.

There were textured leather seams, bonded tailoring lending weight to tailoring, molded coats, wearable, styleable clothes for the living/breathing/working/stressing Manhattan gal of today. The second movement was marked by the New York woman's flirtier, post-work needs, crepe-de-chine frocks with front or back cutouts, sheer tops and wide bandeau belts a la Sarah Burton cinching it all together.

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Helmut Lang

2012-02-12T17:14:00.000Z

The "Night Watch" was on at Helmut Lang Autumn/Winter 2012 with Helmut doing what Helmut does best; heaps of sexy asymmetrical jersey dresses, peekaboo black widow lace, leather leggings and glorious jackets, sharp felt suiting with a bit of reptilian corsetry providing just the slightest suggestion of S&M. The worshiping masses will be pleased.

A quintessentially Langian palette of black, black and more black was interspersed with winter whites in the form of shaggy goatskins pelted down blistered leather jackets, flashes of blood red and a crimson floral-cum-graphic print. Knits were piled on, models' tiny heads peeking out from beneath the chunky coils of meter-long scarves and layers were as numerous as they were voluminous.

The footwear was particularly standout, die-hard Helmut groupies will be swapping their signature leather leggings for a pair of ultra thigh-high wedge boots rendered in an assortment of treatments from black stingray to red. They were so fitted to the leg that one had to reference the show notes just to verify that the mile long suede was indeed a pair of boots and not leggings miraculously fused to wedges.

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Mamma Whisperer at NAHM

2012-02-12T17:06:00.000Z

Ally Hilfiger (yes, daughter of Tommy) and her partner Nany Manivong have created a beautiful collection of Autumn/Winter 2012--very classic and simple styles executed in an assortment of intricate and interesting fabrics. For me, it was all down to the prints for this collection, they were absolutely gorgeous!

I noticed the fabric of one of the dresses matched the wallpaper of the stage where the models were standing, which created a very interesting optical illusion to the viewers and emphasized the importance of print to the range. My favorite pattern was the one with an Egyptian them, tiny hieroglyphics with a girly twist, I would love to take one of these dresses when I travel to Egypt to see the Pyramids!

The presentation also featured a live pianist, I loved the grand piano at the center of the room at Milk studio, very classic and stylish....just like Ally and Nany's collection itself. Yes, the former "Rich Girl" knows to do things in STYLE!!!

Where beauty was concerned, the girls again wore green eye shadow...I think I feel a beauty trend coming on!

Keep up with Mamma Whisperer's NYFW happenings on Twitter!

Man Whispers: New York Fashion Week-Tommy Hilfiger Menswear Autumn/Winter 2012

2012-02-12T14:46:00.000Z

Now in its third season as a stand alone show, Tommy Hilfiger's Men's collection has truly found its footing, graduating from the "preppy with a twist" MO to a more refined sensibility, the Tommy man for Autumn/Winter 2012 will be instrumental in clinching the brand's positioning amidst an increasingly flourishing menswear market. No easy feat for a brand that's a quarter of a century old.

In a lavish feat of set design, Tommy recreated the sprawl of Central Park inside the Park Avenue Armoury, trees, red brick walkways and all.

Inspired by the lifestyle of a young cadet, Tommy's apropos theme allowed him to expound on some of the major trends that emerged from the European menswear runways last month, namely, a penchant for luxurious leathers, the mix and matching of texture and an overriding influence gleaned from the military.

The idea being that the cadet's wardrobe is as varied as his duties, a modern and sophisticated academy look, but with a hint of rebellion as amidst the strictness of the tailoring rock and roll touches such as pewter metal detailing, zips adorning skinny-fitting trousers, a Chelsea-cum-cadet boot and plenty of polished leather tailored in to immaculate peacoats, blazers and riding trousers.

For me, the sensibility carried a newfound air of sophistication for Tommy, the look was at once buttoned up and slightly subversive, it was fashion for men who demand precision in their tailoring and a heritage bottom line but aren't afraid to be a bit more fashion forward and experiment at the level of cut and detail.

We Like To Party: TOUJOURI -Doha, January 27

2012-02-12T10:30:00.000Z

If only I could be in two places at once...then half of me (the Japense half, perhaps) would have attended the opening of the Toujouri flagship in Doha, Qatar whilst the other half scarfed down pasta with Louis Vuitton in Rome. But alas, tis not so and therefore I was unable to attend this fabulous soiree, but I can still share the photos with you ;)

xx

Bloggers' Delight: Dress Up with Atelier Mayer/Toujouri, Qatar

2012-02-12T10:00:00.006Z

In yet another chapter of writing my fashion wishes into existence...Atelier Mayer and Qatari brand Toujouri whom I featured in Culture to Catwalk, upon seeing their UAE entry, asked me to model their kaftans for a special issue of Atelier Mayer's magazine in conjunction with Vanity Fair. Here's a selection of the images with pictures from the launch party of the issue in Doha (which I sadly had to miss) coming soon!

Outfits & Atmosphere: NYFW AW12-Day 1

2012-02-12T00:56:00.000Z

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Mamma Whisperer at Katie Gallagher

2012-02-11T23:31:00.001Z

Katie created the world of "silent soil" very effectively. The room was jet black which gave you the feel that you are in the dark forest in the fall. All the models were very pale with short hair with heavy brownish green eye shadows adorning their lids.

The very original patterns of layers she created gives you a sense of Parisian chic meets New York gothic. Very intricate yet simple. In a way, it reminded me of my favorite designer, Yohji Yamamoto of course, the reigning king of Japanese postmodern design. I also loved her set, steel beams rising out of the stage, creating a kind of maze that the models had to walk through when they came out.

Keep up with Mamma Whisperer's NYFW happenings on Twitter!

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Rebecca Minkoff

2012-02-11T23:15:00.000Z

Guests at Rebecca Minkoff were treated to a special performance from Theophilus London, who kicked off the show with his hit single "Stand Alone" which has been playing on repeat in my mind ever since ("the clothes don't make the man...it's the man that makes the clothes!"). After the rousing rendition, Theo stood alone no more as one by one, the Minkoff girls emerged, maneuvering around the spike-and-leather clad singer who managed to charm a smile or two from even the most stone-faced catwalk grimaces of the models.

The collection was inspired by Ewan McGregor's 2004 documentary Long Way Round--"a girl with moxie" is how the show notes described her. And moxie she had in spades, bold jewel tones and primary colors were mix and matched with tribal-inspired prints and brocade touches. The Minkoff girl this season isn't afraid to make a bold style statement, but she can still board the subway without raising too many eyebrows.

Silhouettes were slouchy and styling was layered--blanket vests worn with dyed knit jumpers or leather mini dresses, shearling peacoats paired with tweed racer skrits or a yeti bomber thrown over a midnight printed shift dress. Menswear-inspired pieces gave way to feminine, effecting a look that was at once eclectic yet accessible.

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Jason Wu

2012-02-11T22:49:00.000Z

If the large red door looming at misty runway's end wasn't hint enough that Jason Wu was planning to dig his proverbial fashion tunnel to China this Autumn/Winter season, then it was when the first girl emerged, hair slicked back into a sleek, high pony and wrapped in a green fan lace wool cape coat and fringed red cap, that certainly clinched it.

Wu looked back to the Qing Dynasty, 1940's Hollywood's conception of Chinese glamour (think Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express) and his Taiwanese roots for the inspiration of his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. After a consumer base that's, over recent years, swung over to the Far East with Western designers flocking to cater to the clientele (think: LV, Ralph Lauren and other strongholds of Eurocentric sartorial centers) it's interesting to see a designer who is actually Asian but long since operating in a multicultural stage try his hand at merging the aesthetics on the runways of New York.

Rather than a Western sensibility fused with Asian airs, Wu's collection seemed to me the opposite. Quintessentially Chinese garments walked the runway one after the other, revealing a deep understanding of the iconic style exports of his upbringing, from body-conscious contrast toned cheongsams-cum-scuba dresses and hints of Mao pervading jacket collars, the subtlety of reference combined with the bold Oriental choice of fabric--slick black lacquer satins and brocades sourced from the royal court of the Qing Dynasty, presented a different interpretation of the influence of Chinese culture on fashion design today.

The Western Yang to Wu's Chinese Yin came in the form of a strong military reference. Footman greens and sharp silhouettes infused the collection with a masculine energy which Wu softened with leather, latticework lace and fur burgundy wool jacket was fitted with opulent fox fur sleeves.

For evening, Wu reimagined the ornamentation of the Forbidden City (which explained the large red bolted doors), puncturing high-slit black velvet gowns with metal studs and jewel-like crystals.

Inside The Whisperer's Suitcase: Berns Hotel, Stockholm-January 30-Feburary 1, 2012

2012-02-11T10:00:00.001Z

Packing for Stockers was a bit of a challenge...staying chic in truly sub zero temperatures not the easiest of feats. Luckily, Oxygen Boutique and Muuba came to my rescue with a selection of stylish but still cosy goodies. And so we peek inside the suitcase...

Packed

Shearling Coat by Muuba

Aztec print cardigan from Oxygen Boutique

Equipment Blouse (£102.50 in the sale) and Alice + Olivia dress from Oxygen Boutique £335

Sub--Zero Parka, Barney's New York Circa 2006

Unpacked

Hat-Jane Taylor; Dress-Alice + Olivia from Oxygen Boutique £335

Dress-Vena Cava from Oxygen Boutique £125 in the sale

Arrow Necklace from Oxygen Boutique £114

Dress-Alice + Olivia from Oxygen Boutique £170 in the sale

Worn with Acne Wedges (not pictured)

Hat-Ugg Australia

Shearling Coat-Muuba; Wedges-Acne

Photos by Rachel Cornick

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012: Libertine

2012-02-11T03:09:00.000Z

For me NYFW began with Libertine who took inspiration from London's legendary Pearly Kings and Queens with jackets, dresses and tees adorned with mother of pearl motifs a la Shoreditch-skulls, spiderwebs and other talismans of East End punk. A mish mosh of texture, print and color, the look was heavily embellished and styled with heaps of layers and a healthy dosh of 'tude. Amidst the Brit-inspired studded flannels, tartans and tweeds, Libertine flew the American flag nonetheless in the form of jewel tone varsity jackets for him and a healthy assortment of hipster-ready tees.

Now in New York: Get Into Alice + Olivia's Pants

2012-02-10T09:00:00.000Z

Alice + Olivia launched the first ever global ad campaign yesterday with a takeover of Times Square with a live installation shouting their 10th anniversary slogan from the rooftops: "Get Into Our Pants!" Little did I know, trousers are the core product behind the brand, hence the singling out for the big anniversary.

Huggy & Me

2012-02-09T16:04:00.000Z

As an expat, you have to make your family where your suitcase sits, building relationships from the ground up instead relying on the laurels of genetics. Thus it has been, over the years, I've pieced together a family of my own out in lonely Londontown, and I love them no less than the flesh-and-blood-Knoxes back home. Ages ago, I had the opportunity to shoot with my London "aunty" and renowned photographer Huggy Ragnarsson. Time was limited, so Huggy asked me to bring two looks that really represented me, and so I fished out my favorite trophy piece du jour, a sheer Christopher Kane motorcycle jacket with the universe on its literal sleeve to represent my outer rock chic, and a little white lace number from Alessandra Rich to embrace my inner girly girl. The results, which I share with you now (better late than never), are foolproof fashion evidence that no one knows you better than your own family.

Inside the Whisperer's Suitcase: Packing for NYFW with The Outnet

2012-02-09T15:18:00.002Z

At long last, I've finally managed to cobble together a long-awaited MUCH needed revamp of this site...and just in time for NYFW! The new banner is an update from the lovely Zarina Liew and the return to running ads an exercise in responsible fiscal pragmatism. So to inaugurate TCW version 2.0, I share with you a peek into my packing regime with a little help from our friends at The Outnet...all dressed up with somewhere to go (click here to shop the look a la NYFW), bring on Autumn/Winter 2012!

TCWxx

Video by www.jamflicks.com
Make Up By: Monica Rossi

Track: Witch Greens by Harlem

Big Thank You To THE OUTNET for helping me fill my suitcase!

Tory Burch's Love Letter to New York

2012-02-08T14:53:00.000Z

♥ feeling is mutual...see you soon NYC! xx