The Design Confidential

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Inspired Baroque Upholstered Chair

Cher-Ann Texter — Sat, 26 May 2012 13:33:18 +0000

Designs by Studio C

Baroque Upholstered Chair

Project Details

I know you guys are going to adore this plan! The instructions for upholstering this chair can be found at Designs by Studio C, yahoo!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

3 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 8’
¾” plywood at 20” x 22”
¼” plywood at 22” x 25-1/2”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x2 at 29” – Back Legs
2 – 2x2 at 18” – Back Legs
2 – 2x2 at 14-1/2” – Front Legs
5 – 2x2 at 19” – Stretchers
2 – 2x2 at 17” – Stretchers
2 – 1x3 at 19” – Front & Back Aprons
2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 22” – Seat
1 – ¼” plywood at 22” x 25-1/2” - Back

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut an 8 deg. angle in the bottom of the longer piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the angled end. Attach to the shorter piece as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown, with the pocket holes facing down, using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and the bottom stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in the corners of one 22” end to allow for the back legs. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the legs and aprons.

Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the upper back legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back piece into the upper back legs.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Chesapeake Daybed

Cher-Ann Texter — Fri, 25 May 2012 13:22:12 +0000

Designs by Studio C

Chesapeake Daybed

Project Details

We have had the most phenomenal week of outdoor furniture plans to kick off this Memorial Day Weekend, and why not let it roll? We jump back to one of our most favorite collections here at TDC, the Chesapeake Collection with an amazing daybed! Squeal....

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

16 - 1x3 at 8’
2 – 2x6 at 6’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Countersink bit for drill
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x6 at 31” – Legs
2 – 1x3 at 38” – Side Aprons
2 – 1x3 at 77-1/2” – Side Aprons
2 – 1x3 at 77-1/2” (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) – Supports
2 – 1x3 at 80” (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) - Supports
8 – 1x3 at 38” – Side Slats
13 – 1x3 at 39-1/2” - Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs according to the diagram. A circular saw may be the easiest way to do it but a jigsaw will be needed to cut out the straight section on the back of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The longer aprons will be flush with the face of the legs while the shorter aprons will be set 1-1/4” back from the inside edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer boards. Secure to the frame at the spacing indicated ¾” down from the top of the aprons (the bottom will be flush with the apron) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shorter pieces will be attached to the longer side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. They will also be located ¾” down from the top of the apron with the bottoms flush.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. The top slat will be located ½” down from the top of the leg and ¼” from the inside edge. Attach the side slats following the inside angle with 1” spacing in between using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. They will be attached to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. The end slats will be located 1-1/2” from the legs while the remaining slats will be spaced 3-1/2” apart.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Reef End Table

Cher-Ann Texter — Thu, 24 May 2012 12:59:55 +0000

Designs by Studio C

Reef End Table

Project Details

A fabulous addition to the other pieces in the Reef Collection, this table is budget friendly and really easy to build!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – 2x4 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
2 – 1x4 at 6’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x4 at 20” – Frame
2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” - Frame
4 – 2x4 at 19-1/4” – Legs
6 – 1x4 at 23-1/2”” - Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Reef Coffee Table

Cher-Ann Texter — Wed, 23 May 2012 15:18:40 +0000

Designs by Studio C

Reef Coffee Table

Project Details

This easy to build and stylish table is the perfect companion to the sofa and chair in this collection!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – 2x4 at 6’
5 – 1x4 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x4 at 44-1/2” – Frame
2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” - Frame
1 – 1x4 at 19” – Frame Support
4 – 2x4 at 15-3/4” – Legs
6 – 1x4 at 48” - Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame and support. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Reef Sofa

Cher-Ann Texter — Tue, 22 May 2012 13:26:06 +0000

Designs by Studio C

Reef Sofa

Project Details

We have plans for the chair, and now the sofa.. I am excited to roll out this new outdoor collection with summer on the mind these days! Easy to build, and fabulous to look at, this collection promises to be a big hit with all of you DIY lovers out there!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

5 – 2x4 at 8’
6 – 1x4 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
2 – 2x4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
2 – 2x4 at 31-1/2” – Top
1 – 2x4 at 70” – Top
2 – 2x4 at 63” – Seat Support
1 – 2x4 at 63” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
1 – 2x4 at 6” – Center Leg
9 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer