(Editor’s Note: RSS / Email readers, have you been on the site lately? We’ve updated our look just a little. Hop on over and read this article on Effortless Gent)

Hey Gents,

Did you hear about the tragedy that happened in Bangladesh a few weeks ago? If not, read a bit about it here, and a more personalized account of it (and other similar events) here.

Pretty sad, right? Every article has varying numbers, but the final death toll is estimated to be more than one thousand people.

How often do we pay attention to where our stuff is made?

Probably not that much, if at all.

With clothing specifically, we walk into our stores, find stuff we like, buy it, and not really question its origin… kind of like how spoiled preteens think money comes from an ATM, not understanding the hard work mommy and daddy put in to earn it.

Clearly, we should be focusing on a Lean Wardrobe and buying fewer but better quality things. But for the younger EG reader, I’ve always preached the importance of fit over quality and brand.

When searching for good fit at the lowest possible price, you tend to overlook where that low-cost product was made, the conditions it was made in, or the overall cost of supporting a cycle that promotes disposable clothing over long-lasting quality.

“Why should I care?”

It’s easy to ignore the things that happen worldwide, or the costs associated with the cycle, simply because we’re so far detached from most of them.

But if you consider yourself a citizen of the world, it’s something you should at least consider, or keep in the back of your mind when you are shopping for clothing.

We, the consumers, aren’t fully responsible for events such as the Bangladesh factory tragedy or the countless other tragedies that have happened, but in a way, we played a part in it.

When we buy cheaply-made goods, we’re giving our money to companies that directly (or indirectly) use cheap labor overseas to make the cheaply-made goods we continue to buy. Not much thought goes into factory workers’ rights, working conditions, wages, or the environment.

The thing is, we, as consumers, don’t see any of this… at least not until some big horrific event occurs such as 1,127 people dying.

“But, but, I have no money… are you telling me to never buy affordable clothes?”

I’m not telling you what to do, I’m just attempting to make you aware.

The choices we make affect others, somewhere down the road. Through our transactions, we’re supporting an industry that, for the most part, doesn’t give a crap about the people who make their clothing. Sad, but true.

At the same time, we all can’t afford top-quality, locally made, premium garments all the time. Sometimes we just need a T-shirt from Hanes or Fruit of the Loom.

Being aware is better than being ignorant. If you don’t need that $5 polo shirt, then just hold out for next time. If you can spring for a better quality garment that you know was made sustainably, go for it.

Three ways to buy fewer, but better

Buy Quality

Quality product can be expensive, but it generally lasts longer and is usually made in better conditions.

That’s a very general statement, so you’d have to do your research into the specific brands you’re interested in. Stuff that’s made in the USA is pretty safe, since we have laws protecting workers, unions are in place, building codes are pretty rigid, etc.

Many large companies are also beginning to produce in the US (Club Monaco’s Made in USA section is a good example). Additionally, big companies that produce overseas—in light of the events in Bangladesh—are vowing to spend more for worker safety… we’ll see how that plays out.

Buying quality isn’t cheap, but with a bit of savings and delayed gratification, you can buy well-made garments with a clear conscience. Plus, if it’s something like a suit, a sport coat, or a good pair of denim, you’ll be using it for years. Take that into consideration when you’re purchasing something at a higher price point.

Buy second hand

I browse local thrift shops, eBay, and StyleForum all the time. So do these guys, and they all happen to be very, very well-dressed gents, all with their own unique sense of style.

Not only can you find top-quality garments at second hand shops, you can find the regular stuff too (Gap, Banana Republic, H&M, etc.) And even if it’s a company that’s notorious for their fast fashion practices, at least it’s not a garment straight from their store’s shelves.

Buy local / US made

Learn about those small upstarts making clothing locally / in the US, or with the best interests of the industry in mind. There are small companies making clothing locally in many cities, probably even one near you.

We make our clothing for Fifth&Brannan right here in San Francisco, a seven-minute train ride away from our home. Tanner Goods makes leather accessories in Portland. Imogene + Willie handcrafts denim in Nashville, Tennessee. Lumina Clothing makes their shirts in Chicago and South Carolina, and has a local store in North Carolina.

There are countless other little upstarts that care about the industry and those working within it. Support with your cash, and care a bit more about where your clothing comes from.

Even if you’re not from the US specifically, there are probably local creators near you. All it takes is a bit of research to see who these craftsmen are.

Last but not least…

Remember: Just do your best.

Your disposable income and the cost of goods will always play a part in your decision, no matter what. We can’t always purchase sustainable, high-quality, locally-made stuff, but when possible, do it.

Support good things by putting your money down for them.

I’m looking forward to hearing what you think about buying fewer, but better things, and holding out for something more costly but made with care.

Let’s hear it! Leave your thoughts below.

[photo, photo, photo]

(Editor’s note: Looking for Sportin’ In The Heat, part I? Here you go.)

Hey Gents,

Without a doubt, a khaki sport coat is the second most versatile jacket you could possibly own. Second only to a navy version, of course.

This is especially true in the warmer months, when you may want to wear lighter colors.

Navy’s great and all (and it’s pretty much always appropriate), but sometimes you just have to switch it up.

By the end of this article, you’ll know exactly what kind of jacket (or suit) to look for, where to find one, when to wear it, how to wear it, and what to wear it with.

Pretty straight-forward, right?

Here we go!

“Should I get a suit, or just a sport coat?”

That’s a good question. It totally depends on you and your needs. If you wear suits a majority of the week, have a few summer shindigs (parties, weddings, etc.) to attend, or just like the idea of owning a summer-appropriate suit, I’d pick up the suit.

That way, you’ll have it at your disposal when needed, and you can always break it up and wear them as separates.

If you don’t wear suits too often, don’t see yourself needing one in the near future, or are on a budget, just pick up a sport jacket.

“What kind of fabric is best?”

Typically, you’ll find khaki suits / sport jackets in a cotton or linen fabric. The key to a “cooler” experience, however, is to make sure the jacket is half-lined (lining half way down the back, fully lined in front panels), quarter-lined, or unlined.

custom unlined jacket from Beckett & Robb

Having a fully-lined cotton or linen jacket somewhat defeats the purpose. You want these layers to feel light and airy, but lining adds heft (especially if a jacket is lined with the same material) and can trap heat. If you don’t like the lightness of unlined, go with a half-lined or quarter-lined version. You’ll thank me later.

(If you’re interested in learning more about unlined vs. lined jackets, check out my friend Antonio’s video here)

“When can I wear my khaki sport coat?”

This jacket is more appropriate for daytime wear, or generally casual situations. Realistically though, you can take it from daytime to evening time (assuming you’re not going to a formal black tie event) and no one will bat an eye.

“Where do I find a khaki sport coat?”

Here’s what I do when I’m casually browsing for a potential new _____________ (fill in the blank: “Khaki sport coat”, “navy suit”, “striped socks”, etc.), I use a site called shopstyle.com. You can search for anything, and ShopStyle will show you numerous options across different brands and price points.

Here are a few examples: Men’s khaki sport coat , Men’s navy suit , Men’s striped socks

From there, you can filter down by brand, price, color, size, etc. all on the left side of your browser window.

Pretty nifty, right?

Specific ones I recommend:

Uniqlo’s Linen Cotton Jacket First mentioned it here, and also happens to be the one I used in my examples below. They come in many colors, fit well, need minimal alterations (assuming you’re more or less a normal shape), and is unlined… perfect for summer.

LLBean signature Warren Chino Blazer I have the Plain Weave Blazer in Navy, which is a three-button version with a decent 3/2 roll. If I were making the purchase again, I’d probably try the Warren.

Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald Fit Sport Coat A more pricey, yet classic option. If you go with Brooks Brothers, you’re guaranteed to have this one for quite a while (especially if you take care of it.) The Fitzgerald Fit is BB’s version of a more modern cut (narrower lapels, higher armholes) without skewing too trendy.

“What do I wear with my khaki suit or sport coat?”

Easy! Khaki is sort of like white or navy, it goes with pretty much everything.

The key word here is CONTRAST. The last thing I want you to do is wear a khaki sport coat with khaki pants and a khaki hat and khaki-colored shoes… and socks… and underwear. Terrible.

Take note: The one thing I advise against is pairing it with another khaki. Even if you think you found a perfect match for your sport coat (“Oh hey! Now I have a suit!”), you most likely did not. Matching two things that weren’t made together (unlike an actual suit) is tough to do.

Anyway, here are four examples to get you started.

Khaki suit (the formal option)

khaki suit (J.Crew) + light blue dress shirt (Fifth&Brannan) + navy knit tie (J.Crew Factory) + brown wingtips (Beckett Simonon)

If you’re attending a formal occasion, go with the suit option, and keep it simple. Light blue shirt, solid navy knit tie, brown wingtips. Super crisp and fresh.

I don’t cosign for black and white very often, but you could also do a white dress shirt, solid black knit tie, and black lace-ups, and if I saw you, I would give you a high five.

Casual option one

khaki sport coat (Uniqlo) + dark denim (Levi’s) + pink OCBD (Uniqlo) +desert boots (Clarks Desert Boots via Zappos)

Since khaki is neutral, you want to bump up the contrast in your outfit. Dark denim would look great on the bottom. The light pink Oxford cloth button down complements the dark denim as well as the neutral khaki, and the olive desert boots look good with everything individually, as well as the outfit as a whole.

Casual option two

khaki sport coat (Uniqlo) + white denim (Levi’s) + indigo chambray shirt (Lands’ End Canvas) + gray driving shoes (Lacoste)

White denim also contrasts with the neutral khaki here, but instead of going dark (like with the dark denim) you’re doing the complete opposite. The indigo chambray looks great with the white denim (if you took off the jacket), but also looks good underneath the jacket. The grey driving shoes have a nice contrasting pop of color with the natural leather tassels, and look good against the white denim.

Casual option three

khaki sport coat (Uniqlo) + colorful chinos (Dockers Alpha Khakis) + white OCBD (J.Crew) + lace ups (Allen Edmonds via Zappos)

The most “daring” outfit of the bunch, kinda. Really, it’s just the bright chinos, but other than that, the outfit is quite muted… and this works out great, because the brightness of the chino plus the muted colors of everything else balances out.

That’s another thing to remember: When it comes to major elements in your outfit, one bright pop of color, max.

Alrighty, kids!

That’s all I have for you today. Hopefully that gives you a bit more confidence if you were looking to add a khaki suit or sport jacket to your summer arsenal.

Questions, concerns, compliments? Would love to hear it in the comments below.

photo, photo

Hey Gents,

Welcome to the first Sunday Shop update. I wanted to send this note from time to time; possibly every Sunday, though most likely every other Sunday or so.

I think these updates will be fun; they’ll be quick, informal peeks at the inner workings of EG, and the small business I’m building to support the rest of the site. In case you weren’t aware, there’s an actual human behind your screen, making sure everything is running smoothly

I’ll also use this time to let you know of any good deals I come across on the web, products I think are worth a look, and any site updates I feel you should know about.

Onward…

As you know, every article on this site is free. It takes hours to publish an article, from the actual topic selection, research, writing drafts, editing, finalizing, curating images, formatting for the web, to finally hitting publish… it’s quite a process.

It takes me hours because I try to provide as much value and knowledge as possible in each article. I could put out fluff three to five times a week, but what good would that do you? Not much, really.

I also have a small but growing selection of eGuides for sale. The flagship product, The Effortless Guide to Graduating Your Style, was my first release.

I worked very hard on it for months, and I’m super proud of it. Over one thousand people have bought it and loved it; I still receive emails weekly from readers who have made drastic changes in their style and wardrobe… good changes. That makes me happy.

The second eGuide, A Young Man’s Guide to Dressing Like a Grownup (Without Breaking the Bank) — DLAG for short — was written with the younger Gent in mind, though its principles and lessons could easily apply to men of any age.

Last day for the special deal

Since I released the second eGuide, I offered a special combination deal. For every new purchase of Graduating Your Style, I threw in DLAG for free… both eGuides for $26.

That promo has been running for a while now, and it’s time to retire it. Both products will still be available, just not together, and not for that special price.

I announced it on last Thursday’s Ask the Readers segment (the 96-hour countdown), but in case you missed it, today is the last day to pick up both eGuides for $26.

There’s more info about the combo, as well as each individual product, here: http://bit.ly/combodeal

Only take advantage of the deal if you think these products can help you; I wouldn’t want you to part with your hard-earned dollars if you feel you can’t learn anything from these guides.

That’s all for now

I have other news to share, but let’s save it for a future Sunday Shop update.

Until then, hope you’re having a great Mother’s Day with the special motherly figures in your life. Back to our regularly-scheduled programming next week.

Hey Gents,

The weather is starting to warm up (at least in my hemisphere), and hopefully the same goes for where you are.

Even if you’re on the opposite side of the world, there’s a good chance you’re experiencing a weather transition.

Today’s Ask the Readers question is: How are you transitioning your wardrobe to accommodate for the changing seasons?

• Are you picking up a few new items?
• How are you retiring / storing last season’s garments?
• Do you do a closet overhaul, or simply shove everything over and bring all the new stuff front and center?
• What’s your organization strategy?
• Are you applying any of the Lean Wardrobe principles we talk about in the book?

Let’s hear your plans in the comments below.

Last time, on Ask the Readers

We haven’t had an Ask the Readers segment in quite a while! The last one was from December 29, 2012, when I asked you guys what your two biggest resolutions were for the new year… one being a lifestyle change, and the other a wardrobe change.

Here are a few of your comments:

My style resolution? Be a source of positive change amongst my friends and coworkers…. My lifestyle resolution is, in broad strokes, do less stuff better. I get involved with way too many extracurricular projects that I don’t get to give them the proper attention they deserve… – crockeronline

…to live in the moment–to be present and take things in as they come, and to have more perspective along with that. …and stylistically… I want to continue to push myself to try new color combinations and take more chances with different looks, possible trends, etc. – Bo

Lifestyle – Stop making excuses and follow thru with educational/certification plans I’ve had for a couple of years. Style – Like Ryan, thrifting. And recreating. The idea is partially about finances, but more about cutting down on waste. – CJ

After being frustrated with dress and sport shirts not fitting properly and the amount of tailoring needed being kind of a hassle and a chunk of change I decided to stop buying those shirts from regular retail channels. In 2013 I will only buy shirts that are MTM. – Aaron Trent

Seems like you guys had some ambitious (though achievable) plans. How have those worked out for you, now that we’re almost halfway through the year?

Would love to hear how your year is going so far. Even if you didn’t answer the question last December, let me know what goals / resolutions you set for yourself in 2013, and how they’re going so far!

Lastly: The 96-Hour Notice: The Combo Deal is Ending SOON!

Just a quick heads-up that the special GYS + DLAG combo deal is ending soon. 96 HOURS soon!

That sounds like a long time, but it’s only four days. So Sunday, May 12 (Mother’s Day! Hi Mom) is the last day to take advantage of the GYS + DLAG Combo Deal.

“What the heck is a GYS + DLAG Combo Deal?!?”

Oh, sorry. Graduating Your Style (GYS for short) is EG’s first eGuide, and Dressing Like a Grownup (DLAG for short) is our second published eGuide, geared towards the younger, more budget-conscious Gent.

You can read a bit more about both, and purchase the combo deal here.

Don’t forget! You only have till Sunday, May 12th at 11:59pm Pacific, so don’t delay!

Till next time

[photo]

Sup Gents!

I’m excited to bring you the latest post in the Signature Style series.

I first discovered Anthony a year or two ago while browsing Tumblr. He puts together some great outfits and takes awesome photos. While some outfits may be considered too stylish (whatever that means), I believe he does a great job pairing classic and trendy pieces, safe with daring pieces, etc., while always nailing the fit.

Keep in mind that what fits on him may not fit on your body type, and vice versa. This is why it’s so important to focus on fit first, then quality and brand of your clothing later. I talk a lot about this in Dressing Like a Grownup.

Another thing Anthony does wonderfully is utilize this idea of high / low that we’ve discussed before. That could mean either pairing casual items with more formal items into one cohesive look (which he does), or it could mean putting together more affordable, everyday items with more expensive, luxe items (which he also does).

Considering that he puts into practice everything we discuss here on EG, it’s as if he’s the physical embodiment of EG in picture form! Because you know I don’t take many photos of myself. I’m mysterious like that.

Anthony was nice enough to provide some As for my Qs. Here we go!

Our QA

EG: In 3-5 words, describe your personal style.

CF: Never boring. Always something unexpected.

EG: Who or what influences / inspires your style the most, and why?

CF: I’m really influenced by people I see in my day to day life. When I was younger it would be my family and the way they dressed. Now it’s a lot of what I see people wearing on the streets of New York City. Most people in the city seem to be so effortlessly stylish so I’m drawn to their look.

It could be a certain color combo, layering idea, or standout shoe or accessory. I’m constantly inspired and getting ideas from my surroundings.

EG: What’s your favorite piece in your closet?

CF: My Gant Rugger High Roller jacket. I’ve never owned a top coat before and this one is perfect in all ways – slim fit, fur lining, and tons of style points with the fur collar.

EG: What’s one essential item of clothing every guy should own, and why?

CF: A perfect-fitting pair of dark denim. You can wear them with anything—dressed up with a blazer, or casual with a plain tee—and you can wear them year round.

EG: One piece of advice for those still trying to find their own personal style?

CF: Stick to the basics and stick to what fits well. There are so many more options for guys out there right now that it can be overwhelming for someone who wants to try and dress better and define a sense of personal style.

If you stick to some basics like a great pair of denim, some OCBD’s, a great blazer, and a pair of quality wingtips, you can’t go wrong. Experiment and build on these staples as you get more comfortable with your clothes.

BOOM.

But wait! I wanted to dig further, and see what Anthony thought about some of the things you and I wonder about all the time.

Things like, how can I change my style without getting the third degree from my buddies? Or, how can I look great if I have a small budget to work with?

Anthony knows what’s up. Read on.

EG: Lots of readers want to improve how they dress, but they’re afraid about what their friends, family, and coworkers might say. What do you do for work, and how does it affect your daily wardrobe choices? Any advice for guys concerned about such things?

CF: Style is very personal so not everyone might understand your personal choices in what you wear. But there are a few things that are pretty much universally acceptable when it comes to getting dressed properly.

Fit, for example, is probably the most important aspect of your clothing to consider. You want an article of clothing to fit your body type properly – not to loose or too tight but something that flatters you.

As far as improving the way you dress in so much as your color/pattern choices, or even how you layer or assemble pieces to create an outfit – don’t be afraid. The only way you will learn to know what you like or what looks good on yourself is to experiment.

Start out simply and really learn to be comfortable in your clothes. When you feel comfortable in what you’re wearing, you’ll look more confident.

Eventually, that confidence will grow and you’ll be surprised at the risks you’ll be able to take in improving your personal style.

As a full time engineer and part time blogger, I often have to deal with the conflict of being out on a job site by day, and then out to a fashion event by night. I know what it’s like to worry about how others see me in my clothing choices.

On one hand, I have to dress comfortably on a job site to look and be ready to “work” and get dirty. I mean, how could my clients trust me as an engineer if I’m dressed in a suit and concerned more about scuffing my shoes than the stability of a building?

But on the other hand, I can’t exactly show up to a fashion press event in muddy work boots while trying to talk with industry people and making connections. My appearance definitely has an impact on how I’m perceived.

My solution is usually to have an extra set of clothes handy for quick changes between my two conflicting worlds. But no matter what your particular situation may be, you should always dress appropriately for the occasion. I mean, who wants to be the only guy at the party wearing jeans and a tee (even if that’s your day to day style) when everyone else is in suits?

So I guess to summarize, focus on fit and comfort as you begin improving your style because as long as you wear your clothes well, you’ll appear more confident.

And with confidence, the worry of what other people will say about your clothes will soon fade away until you’re taking more risks and really owning your own personal style.

EG: What advice would you give a twenty-something guy looking to improve his appearance on a small budget?

CF: Anytime you want to make a change, it usually takes some time and lot of baby steps. Just be patient and buy one or two items that will complement what you already have in your closet.

When you feel comfortable in what you’re wearing, you’ll look more confident. (click to tweet this)

Over time, upgrade old pieces with some new until you have a collection of versatile, well made clothing. With a limited budget, I would recommend sticking with the basics. Maybe buy one solid pair of jeans, a well-fitting button down shirt, a pair of dress shoes, and a nice sweater.

Pick these pieces based on your budget and what will work with your existing wardrobe. Remember that you can’t completely transform your closet, so just have patience and save!

EG: Do you have a method for putting together an outfit (e.g. starting with one item–a pair of denim, a shirt–and build from there, etc.)? Any advice to those who still might not have an effective method in place?

CF: The only thing I really think about when putting together an outfit is where I’m going and what the weather is like. Haha nothing groundbreaking here but I think it’s a practical and smart way to go about choosing my clothes for the day and this is how I’d also advise people to pick their outfits if they’re having trouble.

If it’s going to be a cold day, I’ll usually start with what jacket I want to wear because most people, including myself, have limited outerwear choices so this helps to narrow down the options. Then I’ll go to pants and a shirt and layer with sweaters or cardigans as necessary so that it complements the rest of the look.

In the spring and summer, when the weather is warm, I ususally like to start with a shirt. There’s not much you can do about layering so I’ll choose a shirt that stands out or “makes” the outfit and then throw on whatever pants or shorts match best.

Awww snap.

There ya have it, friends. I like Anthony’s style a lot and I’m glad he got to share some of his thoughts with us.

Make sure to check him out online. Here’s where you can find him:

• Website/tumblr: Closet Freaks
• Twitter: @closet_freaks
• Facebook: facebook.com/c1osetfreaks
• Pinterest: pinterest.com/closetfreaks
• Instagram: @oh_anthonio

Over to you

Any questions for Anthony? I’m sure he’d be happy to answer (I think, though I haven’t actually asked him haha).

Also, do you know any guys with interesting style you’d like to see in this series?

Let me know, and we’ll see if we can make something happen. Tweet them this series if you think it’ll help convince em!

[photo, photo, photo, photo, photo]

Hey gents,

As much as I encourage you to grow up your wardrobe and steer you towards the world of suits and sport coats, I feel like I’ve done you a disservice by not fully diving into the subject about proper fit.

In the beginning, it’s a big step introducing suits and sport coats into your regular rotation, so the last thing I’d want to do is overwhelm you.

If you’ve been following EG for a while now, there’s a good chance you’ve acquired your first suit or sport coat, or are on the hunt for your first one.

It’s important you school yourself on the finer details, especially if you’ve taken a liking to wearing sport coats more regularly. I always stress the importance of fit, and nowhere is poor fit more obvious than in suit jackets and sport coats.

In this article, we’ll cover a few lesser-known indications of poor fit. Hopefully the next time you’re out shopping for a suit, you can recognize these problems in the mirror and either swap for a different size, or shop at a different store, if necessary.

First, the justification for bespoke

There is a reason why full bespoke suiting can cost upwards of $5000+. In addition to materials, constructing the garment itself is very, very time-consuming. It’s meticulously done by hand, requires multiple fittings, and can take a tailor anywhere from 50-100 working hours for one suit.

The benefit of this? A garment that fits like a second skin, something that masks bodily imperfections (e.g. uneven shoulders, odd shape, broad chest, large gut, etc.) and enhances your best features.

The shortcoming? An empty wallet, for one. Bespoke suiting isn’t cheap, and the option isn’t even available to everyone… not only because of prohibitive costs, but also because there just aren’t that many bespoke tailors around anymore. It’s a craft in which few still participate.

Nevertheless, going bespoke is one way to avoid the most common problems I’ve listed below. In case that isn’t an option for you, well… read on and we’ll figure out a workaround.

Two more obvious signs of bad fit

You may already know of these telltale signs. When trying on suits or sport coats in a store, stand straight with arms at your sides. If you see these, it most likely doesn’t fit you correctly.

The Dreaded X

Put on your favorite sport coat and button the top button (or the middle button if it’s a three-button).

Does the fabric pull at the fastening point, forming an X with the wrinkles? This means the jacket is too snug.

There should be no pulling where your jacket buttons. Some trendy, fashion-forward suits are slimmer and may be more snug, but from the standpoint of classic suiting, this isn’t a correct fit.

Do the test: One open hand, palm down, should fit between your buttoned jacket and your shirt. If you make a fist, the jacket should pull and become snug.

Solution

You may need to go up a size, or lose some of that belly. If you’re going up a size, the shoulders may be too big. If that’s the case, try your size at a different store, or look for a different cut of suit (e.g. “traditional” cut instead of modern cut, which tends to have less waist suppression).

Shoulder Divots

Shoulder divots form when a suit jacket’s shoulders are too big and extend past your natural shoulder. It becomes extremely visible right below the shoulder seam when you lift your arms even slightly.

Another cause of shoulder divots is when the wearer has sloping shoulders or a slightly hunched-over stance, but the jacket is constructed with more square shoulders, or designed for a man with an upright stance.

The most common test for correct shoulder pad fit: With your jacket on and arms at your side, touch a wall with your arm like you’re about to lean up against it. You should feel the padding touch the wall, followed almost immediately by your upper arm. The jacket should follow the lines of your body smoothly.

Solution

Go down a size, and / or try on other brands that have a more relaxed, less structured shoulder.

Three other signs of bad fit you may not be aware of

Here’s where things get interesting. You probably have heard of the X and shoulder divots before, but I’m about to list a few things you may not have considered. Pay attention.

Collar Gap

Also known as Prole Gap (go look that one up), collar gap refers to the gap between the back of your shirt collar and the jacket’s collar. Ideally, there should be no gap at all.

Your jacket’s collar should follow the line of your shirt collar exactly, almost as if they’re stuck together. The jacket’s collar should never move away from the back of your shirt collar, even if your arms are flailing above your head.

What causes collar gap? A few possibilities here.

• The jacket doesn’t fit in the chest and / or back
• The neck of the jacket is cut too big for your body shape
• You may have forward-leaning shoulders (if you slouch a bit) and the jacket was constructed for someone with a more neutral, upright stance
• One of your shoulders may be lower than the other (more common than you’d think)

This is why proper shoulder fit is monumentally important when it comes to suit jackets and sport coats. Take a long look at the collar area and see if there’s any gap.

In fact, check right now, with the suit hanging in your closet. Put on the jacket and see if you recognize any collar gap. It’s one of those things that once you see, you can never un-see, especially when looking at other guys in suits.

Solution

Going bespoke. Alternatively, trying on many, many different jacket models from various brands to see whose drape and general construction works best for your body.

More on collar gap

• Via Put This On
• Via Parisian Gentleman
• Via TSB Men

Weird Shoulder Rumpling

This is somewhat related to the shoulder divot, but is noticeable at the top of the shoulder, from the lapel all the way to the sleeve cap. Rumpling can happen when the jacket’s shoulders are too big for the wearer, or if the jacket wasn’t constructed to accommodate the wearer’s natural stance.

It could also appear when the wearer’s actual shoulders don’t fill out the jacket’s shoulder area. This causes the fabric to dip, collapse, or display a generally wrinkled appearance.

Always remember the line that forms atop your shoulders and down your arms should be as smooth and uninterrupted as possible.

Solution

Try on a few jackets from a few different brands. Some jackets are made for men with a more upright stance or straight shoulders, while others can be more forgiving.

Sleeve Pitch

Sleeve pitch refers to the positioning of the jacket’s sleeve relative to your arm’s neutral position. You can expect wrinkling in the sleeves as you move your arms around, but if you find wrinkling when in a neutral stance, there’s a good chance your sleeve pitch is off.

Not everyone’s arms and shoulders have the same neutral position, and wrinkling can occur if both the sleeve’s positioning and the arms’ neutral positioning don’t sync up.

If you’re in the market for a new suit, pay attention to the fabric when you are standing straight with arms at your sides. Check out a side view, and a back view of yourself if possible. If there’s wrinkling at the arm, you should try on a different jacket, model, or brand.

If you already own a suit and noticed excessive wrinkling when your arms are in neutral position, sleeve pitch can be fixed. But, as with all a tailor’s alterations, it comes with a price.

Solution

Hopefully you can find a brand whose jacket construction has the correct pitch, but if not, you have to take it to a tailor.

More on sleeve pitch

• Via Put This On
• Via BespoKenN

“How can I avoid all these issues?!?”

The best solution I can suggest, other than going fully bespoke, is to simply try on many, many jackets. You’ll get the feel for correct fit and what brands and models suit you best (ha! pun.)

Another good idea: go to a high-end department store with knowledgable salespeople (Neiman Marcus, Barney’s, etc.) or a high-end specialty men’s boutique specializing in suiting. The “knowledgable salespeople” bit is important. Here’s why.

If you do this, be honest with the guy. Tell him you’re interested in learning about properly-fitting suits and what best fits your body. Ask him for his help and opinion as to what looks best. Most good sales guys will be happy to exhibit their vast knowledge of proper fit.

You can be upfront with the salesperson if that makes you feel better. Tell him that you’re not planning on buying today, but wanted to try jackets on so you know what fits you best.

If you get an asshole assisting you, don’t be discouraged. Just come back next time and ask someone else. If you have the slightest suspicion that the salesman doesn’t know what he’s talking about (or if he’s dressed poorly himself), continue to nod in agreement as you back away slowly, then run out the door as swiftly as possible.

In conclusion

I hope this helps you recognize signs of improper fit the next time you’re out and about shopping for a suit. Now that you’re aware, your shopping experience should be much better.

If there’s one thing you take away from this article, I hope it’s this: Everything should be smooth. Smooth, clean, fluid lines, from the shoulders all the way down to the hem.

If you pay attention to how the jacket drapes (i.e. lays) on your shoulders and body, it should be smooth. No crazy wrinkling, no mountains of puckering fabric, no fabric tugging at the fastening points.

Now I want to hear from you

Have you bought a suit or sport coat recently, or are you looking to buy a suit soon? Did you look for these signs of bad fit? Looking forward to hearing from you in the comments.

PS — We’re having a big spring cleaning sale over at Fifth&Brannan. You can get 25% off all shirts using “spring25″ at checkout. Also, new pocket squares have arrived!

[photo, photo, photo]

This is a guest article from Denis K. of Cigar Inspector. It is part of the Cigars 101 series on EG.

So you’re new to the world of cigars, and you’ve at least gotten as far as knowing how not to look like an idiot when smoking one.

One thing you’ll find out quickly is that cigars need to be stored properly in humidors in order to preserve them in all their glory.

Installing a humidor in your own home allows you to keep your cigars in top-notch condition, just like when you buy them from your local tobacconist. This can be an intimidating prospect for a newbie, however.

Maybe you’ve seen some of the posh, upscale humidors which are designed as much for looks as they are for functionality. If you have that kind of money to spend, by all means, be our guest.

If you don’t though, read on for advice about purchasing your first humidor without breaking the bank.

But first, let’s take a look briefly at where humidors came from.

History of the Humidor

The concept of the humidor is usually traced backed to an Irish furniture craftsman named Terence Manning, who in the year 1887 returned home to Ireland after spending time abroad honing his skills. The Manning family created and distributed the earliest known humidors, and they are still in the business today.

Early humidors were made of fine wood and were quite expensive. Nowadays there are many less expensive versions of humidors made of cheaper materials which still get the job done—usually wood board, metal or acrylic glass with an internal layer of wood.

Portable humidors were invented in 1998 by Gerry G. Schmidt in Newport Beach, California. Collectible wood humidors remain popular among cigar smokers however, and can make a great addition to your household if you have the budget.

Classifications of Humidors

There are several different types of humidors, classified according to capacity and purpose. The type of humidor you should buy depends on your needs. We’ll discuss size and capacity later on in the article.

Room / walk-in humidors. You would only need a room humidor if you were operating a shop, were a cigar supplier or distributor, or if you were a major collector. This is literally a room which has been converted into a humidor.

Cabinet and table humidors. These are high capacity humidors which can hold thousands of cigars. Cabinet humidors are pieces of furniture in their own right, while table humidors are more portable, but rarely moved since they likewise are generally huge and heavy. You probably do not need or want either of these types of humidors as a beginner, but you may want one later on.

Personal and portable humidors. These are both humidor types which may interest you. A personal humidor is the first humidor you will likely buy, and will allow you to hold a few dozen cigars. These containers are small, relatively lightweight, and movable. Portable humidors are miniature versions which allow you to carry up to around a dozen cigars. They’re great when you’re traveling.

Humidor Design

Jesus, the shop owner at Cava Cardenal Cisneros in Madrid, Spain, showing the expansive Cohiba collection in his shop’s walk-in humidor. Via Cigar Inspector

In terms of design, there are all kinds of different aesthetic choices out there, ranging from the most simple rectangular boxes to ornate wood boxes with rounded edges and artistic flourishes. You also may find humidors with glass lids which allow you to see inside. The design you choose is entirely up to your personal preferences.

As mentioned before, materials for modern humidors typically include wood board, metal or acrylic glass. Other modern humidors are made entirely out of wood. Common choices for wood include mahogany, cherry, walnut, oak, maple and pine.

Larger humidors like cabinet and table humidors may be made out of a heavier material like marble. Some may even have leather exteriors.

The ideal material for the interior of a humidor is usually considered to be Spanish Cedar. This type of wood is beautiful, but the choice is also functional. It can withstand humidity that would cause other types of wood to warp and lose shape over time.

Do You Even Need a Humidor?

First off, how many cigars do you actually have?

If you still don’t have a big collection, you may not need a humidor yet, especially if you have some handy household supplies like zip lock bags.

At that rate, if you have a cooler, you can actually use that as a makeshift humidor. This is such a common solution that there’s even a colloquial expression for a cooler-turned-humidor: a coolidor. As your collection grows though, a real humidor is something you’re going to want.

How Large Should It Be?

Ask yourself how many boxes of cigars you think you’ll have around at a given time. Consider that a box of cigars may hold up to 25 cigars. So multiply by that number to figure out how much space you’re going to need.

Buying a humidor which is just slightly larger than what you think you’ll need is usually a good plan since it gives you more flexibility without wasting space.

Spanish Cedar is beautiful, but also functional. It can withstand humidity that would cause other types of wood to warp and lose shape over time

Believe it or not, you can get a small humidor online at a website like CheapHumidors.com for just $10-20. There is a wide range of prices available if you’re interested in buying used gear.

You can get a nicer or larger one for a bit more money, but you don’t necessarily need to be ready to shell out hundreds of dollars. Humidors with minor cosmetic defects but perfect functionality typically sell for a discount, used or new.

If you had some cigars lying around before your investment in a humidor, chances are they are really dry. Don’t just toss them in the humidor, you need to progressively re-humidify them.

Setting Up Your Humidor

Xikar digital hygrometer

You’re definitely going to want a thermometer to put inside your humidor, as well as a hygrometer (that’s an instrument that measures humidity, make sure it’s a digital one; sometimes you might need to calibrate it so check the manual that comes with the device).

That way you always know if your humidor is working at its ideal settings: try to keep the humidity between 68% and 72% and temperature at about 65-70° F.

To prepare your humidor, you’ll need to complete a few steps.

First, prepare your humidifier, it’s the device that is placed inside the humidor to keep the humidity level stable. Usually it will involve filling it with distilled water or propylene glycol, depending on the humidifier type.

Then you’re going to want to wipe down the inside of the humidor with distilled water and wait about an hour for it to dry.

In the last preparation step you’ll need to put a small glass of distilled water inside, along with your hygrometer and thermometer. Close the humidor and then leave it there for 48 hours, adding more water if necessary while it is being absorbed by the inner walls of the humidor.

After this, your humidor should be operational, just watch the humidity level for a few days to make sure it stabilizes.

Remember, you need to let some fresh air in at least once every few weeks, but this is rarely a problem (except, perhaps, in winter).

It may take some experimentation to decide what works best for you. Enjoy the hobby!

—

Any other useful humidor advice you’ve picked up over the years?

Let us know in the comments.

If you’re enjoying these Cigar 101 articles from Denis, let’s hear it below. What else would you like us to cover? We welcome your suggestions.

You can visit Denis’ site at cigarinspector.com.

[photo, photo, photo, photo]

Hey Gents,

Aah, yes, the Lean Wardrobe. We discuss it a lot here on EG, and I’ve mentioned it many times in several different articles. But what is it exactly? And how do you get one?

Since the Lean Wardrobe philosophy is such an important one, I wrote a guide detailing exactly how to achieve it.

In reality, all it takes is a conscious, active approach to closet management and a long, hard look at each item you are considering purchasing.

The Lean Wardrobe: Five Principles to Achieve Closet Mastery is a quick read, but hopefully you find it full of useful ideas to help you get your closet on the right track. It’s difficult improving your wardrobe if your closet is full and bursting at the hinges with poor sartorial decisions of years past.

Here’s a screenshot of the Table of Contents, in case you’re curious.

Download your FREE copy via the EG Valet

EG Valet is a new resource for all EG email subscribers. In addition to having new EG articles sent directly to your inbox, you have access to exclusive content (style PDFs, exclusive articles, free guides, the new Lean Wardrobe book) that isn’t shared with anyone else… all to help you build and improve your personal style.

If you’re a long-time subscriber, you may have several (if not all) of these freebies already, but not to worry! I’ll add new stuff in there from time to time.

Join EG Valet for free and download your copy of The Lean Wardrobe.

Reading this via RSS? Subscribe here.

Already an EG subscriber? Simply re-enter your email in the field above, and you’ll be sent directly to EG Valet. You won’t be subscribed twice, so don’t worry.

Share Your Story

I’m looking forward to hearing stories about your Lean Wardrobe, or the one you’re working to achieve. Paring down and getting rid of the excess, followed by mindful restocking and constant curation is definitely no easy task.

Have you been working on a Lean Wardrobe? How has it been going so far? Would love to hear it in the comments below.

Hey Gents,

As you already know, the way you present yourself is important. It’s your statement; without speaking, you’re telling the world what you think of yourself and how others should perceive you.

Because of this, dressing well should extend to every part of your life. Even at the gym. Even when traveling.

Especially when traveling.

Why? Well, for plenty of reasons, but mostly because it’s your chance to shine.

Sadly, air travel used to be regarded with more respect and reverence. Just look at the photo above. It was an event; people dressed up when traveling.

Nowadays, it looks like a runway show for oversized sweatshirts and cheap pajama pants. And the sad thing is, no one bats an eye, because practically everyone else is dressed just as schlubby.

But not you, dear EG reader. You, my friend, are different. You don’t succumb to the ways of the masses, in their ratty sweatsuits and pajama pants. You know that dressing well is all about presentation and confidence.

Plus, you’re trying to get a bit of respect from those irritable TSA officers.

Here are a few quick pointers on how to dress while traveling.

(Disclaimer: If you take a pro-sweats stance, I’m not interested in hearing your rebuttal, and this site probably isn’t for you in the first place. If you’re thinking, “But I just want to be comfortable! Waaaa!” Suck it up, be a man, and sacrifice a small bit of your comfort to look presentable.)

What to wear up in the air

After jet setting a bit more than usual the past couple years, I’ve finally formulated the perfect travel outfit.

By the way, “perfect” in this case is relative. If you’re looking to command respect from the TSA and your fellow travelers, this outfit is perfect. If you’re hoping to look like a baggy grey mess in your oversized sweats, this will not be perfect (for you).

(If you’re reading this on EG, click the image to enlarge, and feel free to share with you friends)

In case this isn’t obvious, you don’t have to wear THIS EXACT outfit. Rather, I’m suggesting some sort of variation of this outfit. Don’t over-think it.

1.) Cotton sport shirt or oxford cloth button down. If I’m going somewhere tropical, I would wear a linen sport shirt, or maybe a polo shirt. The shirt pictured is from Fifth&Brannan.

2.) Lightweight chinos. These seem more comfortable than denim. Choose your favorite color. I typically go with a charcoal or light olive. The ones pictured are Dockers Alpha Khaki. If I’m going somewhere tropical, I’d go with a light khaki color, or some other brightly-colored chino.

3.) Lightweight navy sport coat. The pièce de résistance, if you will. Super comfortable, and takes your whole outfit up three notches. I just bought this one from Uniqlo (also pictured above), and I can already tell it will be my favorite warm weather / travel sport coat.

4.) Shoes. Wear your heaviest shoes, typically your leather lace-ups or loafers. The ones pictured above are Cole Haan (via Zappos). That way, your outfit is complete and you don’t have to lug around a bulky, heavy pair of shoes in your bag.

A quick tip

Always bring a sport coat, and wear it on the plane. You may be meeting with friends, or going out to a nice dinner at some point. You can make use of it, trust me.

I used to pack my sport coat, but the last trip I took, I ended up wearing it. I’ll never go back.

I suggest this method because 1.) you don’t have to worry about excessive wrinkles that come from packing a jacket, and 2.) you look damn good in a sport coat.

Dressing well should extend to every part of your life… Even when traveling. (click to tweet)

Same goes for the suit you were about to stuff in your carry-on. Instead of packing it, just wear it on the plane. Feel free to ditch the tie (or, heck, wear it for extra points).

People have this misconception that suits are uncomfortable, or that you need to fly in frumpy sleeping attire or baggy gym sweats to be comfortable. I don’t subscribe to that at all, and if you’re an EG reader, you shouldn’t either.

How to avoid wrinkling

In case you’re worried about wrinkling your suit jacket while sitting for a few hours, you have a few options.

You can take it off, fold it, and stow it away in the overhead bin. Alternatively, if you have a small bag underneath the seat in front of you, you can lay it right on top.

A third option would be to ask the flight attendant to hang it for you in the closet area up front, but I haven’t tried this one yet. If you’re sitting in First Class, up toward the front, or in the very back, this would probably be more of a possibility.

In reality though, it doesn’t really matter. When you take your first shower at your destination, simply hang up your jacket in the bathroom, and the steam should help loosen the wrinkles.

If you have a linen jacket like mine, the wrinkles add character, so I definitely wouldn’t worry about it.

Other considerations

The airport is often a hot mess. You, my friend, shouldn’t be. Keep in mind these easy-to-follow tips when traveling.

Go lean

Let the lean wardrobe mentality extend to your packing as well. If you’ll be gone only a week, you can fit everything in one carry-on bag. It’s just a matter of practicing minimalism and taking only the necessities.

Prepare to get frisky

You know how the TSA makes you take off practically all your clothing before walking through the metal detectors? Be prepared and do it all before you reach the conveyor belt.

Don’t actually take off your clothing, but if possible, throw your wallet, phone, jewelry, belt, etc. in your carry-on, and be prepared to take off your shoes and jacket.

Don’t wait to do everything until after you throw your bag on the conveyor. You don’t want to be that guy flailing all over the place while the line grows behind you, and the person that was in front of you is already through the metal detector and grabbing his bags.

I always hate Flailing Guy. I’m sure everyone else does too. Don’t be him!

Barefoot? Please.

Wear socks. Unless you don’t care about going barefoot in line.

Oh what, you’re wearing flip flops? Bad move, buddy. Flip flops are for the beach, the pool, or your walks to and from the beach or pool. Wear appropriate shoes next time. Tsk tsk.

Further reading

Here’s another take on stylish and travel-appropriate outfits, from Antonio / Real Men Real Style via Art of Manliness.

A quick update on my attempt at packing light

A few articles ago, I discussed packing lightly for my upcoming trip. I’m proof that the whole Lean Wardrobe philosophy, even when extended to packing, is a constant work in progress, something that needs practice.

It’s not always easy to predict exactly what you’ll need during a trip. Inevitably there will be some inefficiencies, and you’ll wish you brought more T-shirts and less pants, or more underwear and less dress shirts… something like that.

All you can really do is take a long look at what you plan on bringing—lay it all out on the bed—and evaluate it.

Think about what you’ll be doing on your trip, and see if your plans align with the clothing you have laid out. Hopefully your selections are activity-appropriate.

My specific situation was a little tricky. I was heading to a tropical locale, but I was also attending a few meetings. I didn’t want to wear T-shirts and flip flops to these meetings, so I had to bring a few dressier options as well.

Specific observations

Turns out that I ended up dressing up in non-beach clothes more often than I thought I would, so I would’ve benefitted from one or two more sport shirts or polos. I didn’t hit the beach that much, unfortunately, so I could’ve survived with one pair of trunks.

I didn’t wear the Chucks much, but I did wear the dub monks, driving loafers, and sport coat a lot. So to those who said I wasted space by bringing them, I laugh smugly in your face.

Just kidding. But, seriously, I did wear them a lot, so you were totally wrong.

I didn’t wear the red chinos as much as I thought I would; I guess I wasn’t in the mood for brightly-colored chinos. I would have benefitted from a second pair of chinos, maybe ones that were slightly less colorful. Who knows though, moods change and maybe next time I’ll be into them.

Again, packing light takes practice! Even I’m not perfect at it. But, I know for a fact that the more you practice, the better you’ll be. I once was terrible, and I’d bring multiple options for multiple situations, and come home not touching two-thirds of the stuff I brought with me.

One thing I can say is that packing light definitely feels great, just like owning less and having a lean closet feels great. I personally hate lugging around multiple bags, and I never check in my suitcase. If you’re like me, you’ll benefit from the Lean Wardrobe philosophy.

Hope that helps

Where are you headed this summer? Any fun trips planned? Let’s hear it below.

One last thing! A small announcement

Have you checked out Dressing Like a Grownup? It’s the ultimate resource for the younger gent trying to dress better on a small budget.

You can pick up DLAG for only $7, but for a short time, if you pick up The Effortless Guide to Graduating your Style (my first eGuide), you can get DLAG for free. More details here.

[photo, photo, photo, photo , photo]

(Editor’s note: This is a guest article by Robert of Restart Your Style. Robert is offering to get you started on your new style by personally helping you over your current sticking points. Visit his site to get his advice completely free.)

Being a rookie is brutal.

You want to fix your style, but you don’t know where to start. Let’s face it; you don’t even know what needs fixing.

So you go online for help, but you discover an overwhelming amount of information, and it’s all scattered.

It’s like someone ripped out the pages from a style encyclopedia and scattered them all over the floor.

So you pick a random page and try to learn something – because that’s better than doing nothing, right? But deep down you know it’s a random act of desperation because you still don’t really have a clue if it’s right for you.

Hell, you might even end up changing the one thing you were actually doing right!

But it’s not your fault. You’re a rookie and you’ll always make rookie mistakes.

Unless of course, someone who’s already made them all tells you exactly what they are. Then you could just skip them altogether…

Mistake 1: Assuming You Already Know Something

When we first set out, as rookies, to learn how to dress better, we work under the impression we already know how to dress. We just need to learn how to dress better.

But knowing how to put on clothes is not the same as knowing how to dress.

If you want to learn how to dress better, you must stop thinking you already know something. You must forget everything you think you know.

Because what you think you know might be exactly what’s ruining your look.

And when you think you already know how to do something, you´ll skip over information telling you how to do it right.

I skipped over articles on fit for a long time, and my mind exploded when I finally discovered how little I knew about it. Fit was such a basic concept, I thought I had it down. When I discovered I didn’t, I felt like a moron for getting it wrong for so long.

The more basic you think advice is, the more you need to read it. The basics are the most important to learn.

So if you think you have something down, just tell yourself you could use a refresher.

You might surprise yourself.

Mistake 2: Confusing Dressing Up With Dressing Well

Dad’s suit?

Many rookies think dressing better is about wearing dressier clothes. They think they put on a suit, and SHAZAM! Their style issues are fixed.

Doesn’t even have to be a suit. Other guys think blazers have the same magic powers, or hell, others think a simple shirt does the trick.

But wearing a shirt instead of a tee, or a suit instead of casual wear, ain’t no style fix, dude.

You’ll just make the same mistakes as before, just on dressier clothes.

And poorly-worn suits look just as sloppy as poorly-worn T-shirts and jeans.

Because style isn’t about the clothes you wear. Style’s about how you wear the clothes.

Mistake 3: Taking Your Lead From the Fashion World

When you first decide you want to dress better, you naturally look toward the fashion world. They’re all about clothes, after all.

But the fashion world sucks.

The fashion world isn’t about teaching you how to dress well. The fashion world’s about telling you what to wear this season. The fashion world is about selling.

So when you look to the fashion world for help, it’s telling you “buy this, buy that, buy this, buy that”.

And you think that if you just buy what they say, your style will improve. But it won’t.

You’re wearing trendier clothes, but they still don’t fit, and you’re still getting the colors all wrong, and it all still looks like a giant mess, because you never learned how to wear the clothes.

You’re wearing trendier clothes, but you still look sloppy.

You have to ignore seasonal trends, and focus on learning the basics of dressing well.

Because when you know how to dress well, you won’t need to rely on the fashion world. You won’t need to rely on anyone.

You’ll just know what works for you and what doesn’t.

Mistake 4: Settling for Close Enough

When a rookie’s eyes are finally opened to how clothes should fit, rookies often discover how troublesome finding proper-fitting clothes off the rack is.

So they settle for a fit that’s close enough.

But close enough isn’t good enough, dudes.

You want clothes that fit like they were made for you — like their creator had you in mind when he made them.

If you haven’t already, you want to get a grip on this pronto. Getting a grip on fit is priority one.

Without the right fit, your clothes won’t look good on you.

Without the right fit, all your efforts to fine-tune your look will be futile.

You don’t want close enough. You want as close to perfect as possible.

Never settle.

Mistake 5: Treating the Tailor as a Last Resort

Most rookies are reluctant to get their clothes tailored.

They’ll spend hours upon hours trying to find perfect-fitting clothes off the rack, and end up feeling frustrated when they can’t find any.

And you know what?

I totally get it.

I put it off for the longest time as well.

I think when you’re a rookie, the mere idea of getting your clothes tailored is just too foreign. You feel like you shouldn’t have to pay for this service, because you never had to before. You feel like you should be able to find good clothes off the rack, just like you’ve always done.

But then, maybe you should stop doing what you’ve always done, and start doing what works.

And what works is getting your clothes tailored.

Just try it with one shirt, and you’ll see how well it works with your own two eyes.

You’ll save yourself a lot of time and frustration.

Mistake 6: Buying Super-Fancy Designer Duds

Much like the rookies mentioned previously, many think buying fancy designer duds will solve all their issues. They think Versace, Armani or Hugo Boss clothes have magic powers too.

But again, it’s not about the clothes you wear, but about how you wear the clothes.

So a fancy brand won’t fix your style issues. You’re only making more expensive mistakes.

Clothing in your stage of learning style is practice material. You’re better off getting a lot of practice material for a low cost, than practice on a few super expensive items.

Besides, few people will realize you’re wearing brand clothing anyway. Unless you broadcast it, which makes you look like a show-off… and a moron… and everybody hates you.

So don’t.

Mistake 7: Cramming Instead of Doing

Some guys seem to think upping their style is like a big test they have to prepare for. They stay in research-mode for the longest time, leading to analysis paralysis.

What happens is, you want your style transformation to be perfect.

You want to avoid making a fool of yourself. So you go online to find advice, but you find so much of it. And you feel like you need to study it all before you start your transformation.

You feel like you need to know everything, before you change anything.

And without realizing it, you’re paralyzed.

You just keep reading and reading, but you never take any real action on what you read (save for the small, easily-implemented tweaks).

But learning style is all about developing your eye, and your eye is not developed from reading. Your eye is developed from seeing.

So instead of trying to learn everything, learn one thing, and implement it right away.

That’s all. Just one thing.

And then the next.

And then the next.

Mistake 8: Obsessing Over Details

Everybody says style’s all in the details.

And I disagree.

Style’s all about the big picture. Details can elevate a look, but they can’t make a look. If the big picture is off, the details won’t fix it.

You have to learn how to put an appealing outfit together, before worrying about details. Otherwise you’re just icing the cake before you bake it, which I’m almost sure is the wrong order.

So forget about the details.

Focus on the big picture.

Mistake 9: Thinking “Effortless” Means “No Effort Required”

So a look often advocated recently is the effortless look.

And many rookies use this effortless look as an excuse to keep dressing sloppily. They think they achieve this look by putting zero effort in.

But you don’t achieve the effortless look by looking like you just didn’t bother. You just want to look like you didn’t put a lot of thought into it — like you just grabbed whatever you had in your closet and put it on.

But you still want to look like you know what you’re doing. You still want your outfit to look good.

Just keep it simple. Don’t over-think it. But also don’t stop thinking entirely.

Mistake 10: Going For an Instant Transformation

Many rookies think they have to transform like Optimus Prime and overhaul their entire wardrobe overnight.

But they don’t.

In fact, I recommend against the instant transformation, for the following reasons:

• You’ll stay in preparation mode for too long (possibly forever).
• You’ll feel incongruent when you do transform.
• You’ll be freaked out by the attention.

So even if you do get out of preparation mode, you’ll likely transform back into your old, trusted look. You’ll tell yourself you tried it, but it just wasn’t you.

But when you take your time, change gradually, and learn along the way, the transformation will be a lot smoother, and a lot more comfortable.

So What’s a Rookie to Do?

Well, Rookie, to finally stop looking sloppy, you need to focus.

You need to focus on the right things.

You need to stop randomly reading anything the web throws your way, and focus on the basics, like fit, color-coordination and achieving balance in your outfits.

Effortless Gent has a Start Here page, don’t you know? As does my own site. The articles listed on these pages cover a ton of basic information, and just going through these will help you on your way.

Focus on the Basics

Nothing you do matters until you have a grip on style basics, dude.

No suit, no trend, no brand will look good until you do.

You need to forget about the what, and focus on the how. Because once you know the how, you’ll never have much trouble again. Once you know the how — once you’ve internalized the how, and developed your eye — everything else is easy.

All you have to do is forget everything you think you know, erase your bad habits, and take it one step at a time.

Just one tiny step at a time.

And before you know it, you realize you look pretty damn awesome.

—

Don’t forget to visit Robert’s site. He’ll get you started on your new style by personally helping you over your current sticking points.

[photo, photo, photo, photo]