The F-Breath

Editorial: Marble-Llous Opposites

2013-05-02T10:01:00.000+02:00

Photos: Gabriele Semeraro

Y-3 Spring 2013 AD Campaign by Pierre Debusschere

2013-05-02T09:24:00.002+02:00

Special Interview - Edoardo De Falchi: The Hidden Artist

2013-04-29T08:40:00.000+02:00

Edoardo De Falchi Interview Credits: Gabriele Semeraro

Fluidic - Milan Design Week

2013-04-24T08:54:00.001+02:00

‘Fluidic – Sculpture in Motion’
is a unique installation that creates dynamic virtual sculptures using lights, conveying the essence of Fluidic Sculpture, the inspirational role played by nature and the ability to continuously adapt to the changing environment. Created by Hyundai Design Center in collaboration with WhiteVoid, a company specializing in special effects,
the installation introduces Hyundai’s aesthetic language to audiences in the form of interactive performance art.
Accompanied by a special mix of performance art, music and dance created by the famous German choreographer Nikeata Thompson, the light installation is unveiled on April 8th in the Art Room at the ‘Temporary Museum for New Design’ in Milan. During Design Week,
Jan Jelinek of SCAPE, one of the key figures of contemporary electronic music, is set to offer the general public the chance to experience.
Occupying about 1,000 square meters, the installation is based on the innovative ‘Nucleus’ concept.
At the center of ‘Fluidic - Sculpture in Motion’ is a nucleus consisting of 12,000 luminescent spheres representing the heart of the design philosophy of Hyundai.
‘Fluidic - Sculpture in Motion’ is a show of lights, lasers and interactive media, inspired by the formation and transformation of the natural world, creating shapes and three-dimensional images of great visual impact. The installation begins with virtual rain recreated by laser light, before an interactive phase, in which human presence allows the creation of striking three-dimensional images. The interactive transformations are made possible by a special 3D scanning system that registers body warmth, allowing visitors to explore and manipulate the installation by using their gestures to create curves and shapes.
The interaction is also a tool to deliver sensory experience of Hyundai’s design philosophy, while embodying the fluidity of the times we are living in as well as our need for harmony, flexibility and adaptability.

Photo Courtesy: Hyundai

Bondage-y Versace Home by Haas Brothers

2013-04-09T21:59:00.003+02:00

Photo Courtesy: Versace

A Pinched Trend. Antonio Marras 2014 Knitwear View

2013-04-09T21:48:00.005+02:00

The Re-looking at some collections after the end of fashion week,

make you feel the next season trends. but not only that, you can also perceive more the message and the concept that the creative team of the brand is trying to communicate you.

Let's consider three designers: Stella McCartney, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin.

Although they are all very different stylistically between them, in the last shows, there was something that kinda related them together: the contrast masculine - feminine.

Well, now is not the time to start making the close-up of each shows.

Let's get to the climax of the situation.

What we can perceive after tons of fashion shows is that there are basically strong contrasts between the different collections depending on the creative choices taken.

Take Antonio Marras,

his spirit seems to come out and take creatively poetic form whenever a model went out on the catwalk. after collaborating with Lea Vergine for the exhibition, Another Time, dedicated to Bloomsbury Group, the Sardinian designer takes those concepts uniting them to his imagination and to a folkloristik vision lated with knitwear and print traditions.

Let's start off with what is at the end of the season the trend picked up by Marras, in this case: the patchy-knitwear.

We have seen it developed by several designers :Marco de Vincenzo has reinterpreted it with a glue coated knit, according to Spatialist characteristics and with contrasting colors; Alexander Wang Balenciaga, however, has given a more material point of view, linking it to the shapes and colors of marble.

Here instead Marras gives a more traditional translation, but by using this term I would not want to fall into the typical archetype "craft", indeed I could use the phrase technologically and locally developed. A set of basic techniques as the union of fabrics by pinching the two fabrics chosen with needles that bind them together, but also the use of flock, all tied by the floral Brocade, but also joined by the fur.

Here,

then, in the end we've noticed a strong development and resulting in a greater focus on that field, overlooked by many, knitwear, that even with the simplest techniques and turn to more fresh and new, is able to maintain and create a figure,

distinctly contemporary.

Photo Courtesy: Antonio Marras

Longchamp Tex-Knowledge

2013-03-28T13:42:00.001+01:00

Photo: Antonia Bini Smaghi

Old Young England. Stella McCartney Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-03-26T01:08:00.002+01:00

Round and round,

in the end what reaches us always and everywhere are our origins.

Take for example the little explanatory case of Stella Mccartney.

In her latest collection, come to light and are touched all those points which keys that once identified immediately say: England.

We start with the assumption that there is a deep and balanced schematic / rational distribution of the key concept of the season.

Let's start for example from the pinstripes; Saville Row, the great couturiers, Hardy Amies, etc..

Here that immediately invades tailored jackets, coats, parkas, sweaters, skirts, high-necked shirts and clothing.

Starting with a turbo, which shouts: GOD SAVE THE QUEEN.

But then points to a way more clear and direct communication of what is the real silhouette of the entire collection: the oversize.

Constructed coats,

as well as the decomposition of the part of the lapels and the detachment of its lower part so as to create the illusion of the fake layer.

But then we come back in the UK with the proposal of what was then one of the trends of the season: check.

All this made extremely sporty and practical, not only by the use of boy-ish caps, so "Dreaming David Beckham," but thanks to the use of faded and burned Skate print dresses.

The touch that reveals the emblem behind it.

A meeting between the stiffness and the classic tailoring of the English, and the casual and the street-style of suburban culture.

A very effective melting and immediate impact.

A strong combination of design and marketing strategy; between the old and classic London and the young and fresh one.

Photo Courtesy: Stella Mccartney

"Catch Her If You Can". Mugler Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-03-06T20:14:00.003+01:00

Let's talk about traveling.

Nowadays, given the social situation in which we live, I can not wait to take the first plane to reach, and run away.

The theme of the plane, and the passenger is precisely the main concept of the latest collection of MUGLER's creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sebastien Peigné.

The taste of the journey, hostess, a dynamic life.

A bit of a makeover in 50's style of Leonardo di Caprio's Catch Me If You Can.

The hostess-business woman- like style and attitude.

Those typical pastel colors, orange, gray, reminiscent of some sunsets of San Francisco and those old movies with scenes in locations such as Lori's Diner.

I can also see some of them really, these women running through the halls of the airport to catch a plane, or even come into the bar with the jukebox on.

I found it much "reflected" as a collection, a deep study of materials, such as various materials technologies, see cashmere and wool.

But also, and above all it is closely and easily tunable relationship with the archives of the maison.

A very close approach to Thierry Mugler's story, compared to previous presentations, the draped bodices and processing technique of the sleeves and some top.

To conclude then everything with cocktail dresses in patent oilslick dresses, complete with a white handkerchief on the head.

Unmistakable detail of that period.

A historical development achieved with techniques and contemporary mentality, above all, a very detailed and efficient result.

Photo Courtesy: Mugler

The Asian Point of View. Kenzo Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-03-05T19:19:00.002+01:00

Semantically speaking, when we experience something, or we are in a specific mood, we need that precise dress, the specific design of the specific designer.

Taking the example of my insatiable desire for knowledge regarding the oriental taste,

what if not Kenzo?

Even if more than the eastern, there is a great mix, very charming and contemporary, with regard also to a modern musical research, the involvement of outside artists, such as the last collection showed in Paris few days ago, where Dj Matangi made in fact only a remix of some Mia's songs.

In comparison with the previous collection,

where everything was deep and visually tied to visuality and street youth, in the latter instead there is a strong research around the textile, tactile, a study in the archive, a reinterpretation of sacred ornaments and decorations from asian temples.

Jacquards, operated, brocades lamé gold, and the help of Delfina Delettrez for the accessories. Structurally and rigidly geometric forms, intentionally made by the use of very consistent tissues, as well as for rounded shorts on the seam line of the hips.

What makes very interesting Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's work, is also the use of almost ironic graphics / iconic, in this case the use of the eye which dampens the atmosphere urgently religious, and makes it almost gayest.

A very similar image to that of Proenza Schouler's one of last winter 2012-2013 collection, in some details and cuts of some outfits .

Overall, even if I preferred the last collection with regard to the design approach, it is obvious that as regards the appearance marketing and sales for this winter, there will be no minimum problem, as being pieces of trend, contemporary and super-wearable,

the collection will be immediately sold out.

Photo Courtesy: Kenzo

The Folk Austerity. Gareth Pugh Fall WInter 2013 2014

2013-03-03T10:20:00.002+01:00

There are two kinds of artists, figurative and conceptual ones.

Lately I'm finding to be more conceptual than I thought.

But now we do not talk about me, as I said, there are those who manage to express themselves more clearly and directly through the images and visually immediate recall, and those through easy or difficult strengths to understand.

Sometimes there are exceptions, one who can mediate both, causes of great upsets, obviously in a good way, to those who look at their creations.

Gareth Pugh, already in a not too distant past, working with Shostudio's, Ruth Hogben, had represented visually illustrated concepts , with each image and scene in the video, all enclosed in a casing of music and video called: Digital.

For his latest collection we have a vision that we would usually have only conceptually or fantastically, but then apparently is becoming a reality.

We have always had in mind or had that feeling of austerity, expressed through powerful images of women dressed visually very impressive, figures and shadows.

All this, if we take into account Pugh, brings us right away to the British folk small villages, those similar to those of Macbeth's witches, on this occasion with a slightly pseudo-Victorian filter .

Practically, indeed, the entire collection revolves around long silhouette , with triangular composition, where the top is just the head, and the bottom two-corner are the fabrics that touch the floor, sort of overlapping tunics with french- clean turtle neck, or large draped collars and roll back shawl ones.

All with the same heaviness, stiffness of fabric and color palette.

Then starting from a concept and general feeling and perception, Gareth Pugh has come to create something tangible and real, folkloristic world tied to ancient moral principles, and austerity.

Photo Credits: Gareth Pugh

A Thorny Roses Rebellion. MSGM Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-02-25T18:21:00.000+01:00

There's something of a rebellion in the air,

this time more than ever.

Politically speaking, try to understand what I'm talking about.

There are those expressed in physical terms and mass with real events, and there are those who, even unintentionally, led to the concept of thinking in a filter creation.

Designers, musicians, artists always try to give a demonstration of their intentions, what they think of the society they live in.

Massimo Giorgetti for this reason tried to give a figure in all this, the 80's were the starting point, conceptually.

The personified rebellion.

Let's start for example from the study of color, light and dark gray, with rays of very bright colors such as orange, or with completely opposite poles of dyeing, talking to the print, and specifically the animal.

Prints that then in this case, while remaining always very pop, have a something more specular, reproducibly symmetrical.

Very elongated silhouettes, the hips go away completely, and sweatshirts as they always do their part, making the high point with bowie-ish red and purple floral prints.

Then that's not all, the damask that seem a little thorns of roses, that are used for felted velvet capes and large skirt.

So what is expressed through the collection is a contemporary retelling of the 80's post-punk , with typical roses and introduction of new spines, which therefore represent a manifestation of what happening in the society where we live, and that drives us to communicate our thoughts , just as Massimo did with his collection.

Photo Credits: MSGM

Antonio Marras Meets La Rinascente

2013-02-25T14:01:00.002+01:00

Photo Credits: Antonia Bini Smaghi

N 21 by Alessandro Dell'Acqua Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-02-24T23:46:00.002+01:00

A Cinematic View. Altuzarra Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-02-12T22:34:00.001+01:00

Nowadays,

if we were going to look for inspiration for any project,

it is very rare, almost difficult that our desire-to-create induces us to go to a library,

which is why many institutions prohibit design students to do research on the internet , and to start to go out and use their senses.

Place for some years now has become the "Mecca" of ideas, is the Street.

We might say: well it is not a new story.

But instead it is, indeed.

Each designer, every artist that we consider, has a completely different vision from that of another, a vision of a completely personal world.

Joseph Altuzarra, American by adoption, can pull out insights and ideas that are not only contaminated by the American spirit but by the French flair implanted inside.

In the latest collection, everything seems to be dominated by a dark aura, everything revolves around dark colors, leather, fur, contrasts and volumes.

A structure that revolves around the construction of the shoulders and then down, enveloping the body. The show opens with a model with suit, a six buttons double breasted jacket, with leather shoulders, and black trousers.

This is perhaps the key to the whole look.

We can therefore reach the type of target, the woman on which he created the collection, a woman with a cinematographic mind.

We can well imagine also the type of setting in which to place it, down the streets of a black and white 40s and 70s Paris.

That orchestra soundtrack music accompanying the story of this woman in a thriller, a detective.

An active woman. Present. Remarkable.

As for the previous season, the story was set in the east, to the tassels, the fabrics, decorations and embroidery, with all moves westward, back to the native country of the designer, and you can see the clues, even if they are not fully evident.

Photo Courtesy: Altuzarra

LIVE STREAMING Y-3 A/W 2013-14 SHOW

2013-02-10T10:50:00.000+01:00

From 2D to Modern Still Life 3Dimension. Missoni Spring 2013 AD Campaign

2013-02-08T11:29:00.001+01:00

Speaking of 3Dimension

is a very common factor among the artists,

I mean, create a body / Look / Actual creation, 360 ° fully prospettibile and size, is something of a desire of many.

Speaking of Missoni therefore, what comes immediately to mind, is the typical fantasy zig zag line, the geometric pattern, typically bidimensional,

thanks to the structure and construction of the garment

It has a hint of three-dimensionality.

In the Last campaign directed and shot by Alasdair McLellan,

the form comes to life in a 60s location where you can also see the presence of pseudo still life that enlivens the image and focuses one's attention to the center, where precisely is also

still the subject.

In addition to an art and graphic project, the strength of visual marketing is remarkable, and the contrast of still life and movement of the camera

make all focal alive.

Photo / Video Courtesy: Missoni

A Messy Lord Brummel. Raf Simons Fall Winter 2013 2014

2013-02-08T08:02:00.000+01:00

Nowadays,

there are two things that describe the man in detail,

if we start from that He is now devoting more and more time to himself, the attention to detail, the choice of the outfits, the focus on the whole picture, we would not finish more than find ways to describe how Dandy he is.

A Beau Brummel of the 21st century, the attitude is very confident, flawless.

The other element that characterizes the man of this period, indeed, the man in general, which is it?

What is that infuriates the woman nowadays? the exact opposite of the English Dandy, the seedy, the guy who comes out dressed like he just got up.

All this found in every single detail of the collection.

Let's start from the beginning, the first point you can highlight a key factor that takes semantically tabula rasa to the entire collection: the juxtaposition of contrasting colors or completely opposite to the look, I mean, therefore, with dark jackets on pink shirts, pure and simple overlap and layers of different colors.

Collars or relaxed dolce vita coming out of sweaters, double breasted jackets, but also overlapping volumes, such as the turtle neck with the 70s baggy pants.

Then the passion of detail found in the small details made in waistcoats with Puss in Boots prints or professionals and women post-Modernism-like way ones.

Moving on to the second step, analyzing the above points, we come now to depth.

The attention to detail and level of overlap, receives all a mild shock, the cuffs of the shirts are open, and the 70s semi-internal semi-outdoor collars, a silhouette formal-informal in all respects.

What then if we think about it observing those coats with the bibs to strap on the chest, are they vaguely reminiscent of something?

First of all, this fully confirms what I was trying to communicate, what?

The sense of conversion, of disruption.

Those bands on double-breasted peaked collar jackets, were originally internal main part of capes for their closure.

We can therefore say that the moral of Raf Simons is trying to tell us that it is time to break away from the typical stereotypical image of man, which now binds the 21st century to a single image.

It 's time to change and shock us.

To move on

Photo Courtesy: Raf Simons

Y-3 Fall Winter 2013 2014 Show Live Streaming #NYFW

2013-02-05T19:15:00.004+01:00

NYFW is about to start, just few hours.

Sunday 10 watch Y-3 Fall Winter 2013 2014 show

Live Streaming

Here

or on the Official Site

The Bad and The Belle. N°21 New Bag Collection

2013-02-05T19:10:00.002+01:00

It was only a matter of time before it happened,

and finally here they are.

N°21 is going to be felt, the latest news, with the new collection of bags BAD BELLE, produced and distributed worldwide by the new-partner Gilmar.

That little neo-minimal style, a union between Richard Wilson's touch and French Lanvin-ish Romanticism for the colors and the choice of materials.

This is what it is, a representation and contemporary reworking of what is the BAD, the strong, cold, such as sculpture, the metal structure;

and the BELLE, the romantic girly French appeal.

Photo Courtesy: N°21

Calvin Klein: Provocations by Fabien Baron

2013-02-03T21:42:00.001+01:00

A Mean Girls Canteen Map. MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti Pre-Fall 2013

2013-01-29T20:50:00.002+01:00

It's time for an establishment.

Here comes the moment for many fashion houses to stabilize themselves,

or to budge from the "versatility" place, aimed at the continuous research of their own style, concept and key brand itself.

Just think about what's going on with the Balenciaga-storm and the arrival of Wang.

So now we come to Milan, there are several brands on the rise, one of them is MSGM.

In previous seasons we have evolved from simple Sanderson sweatshirts up to something more, a development almost graphically urban and avant-garde post-modern look.

Is therefore time, as I said, to settle at some point of what is the table of fashion, a sort of High School Canteen, a bit similar to the Mean Girls's one.

Each table corresponds to a group, as in the film are the tables of the gym-pumped, artists and geeks, so we have some differences in fashion.

With this pre-fall, where can we place Massimo Giorgetti and his brand?

It is not that simple choice.

Studying well individually each looks, we can also say that there are few details like the next winter menswear collection.

Well, both the man and the woman must reflect the central concept.

But there is a very American- street style smell in the air.

Perfect style for magazines.

Young and stylistically of strong impact on paper and in photos.

Anyway, back to the clothes, we can already see a significant evolution in the work.

Fil coupè floral laser engraved sweatshirts , fur-camouflage printed coats and round the neck jackets. But what makes me even more sure of what i just said, that the making oneself an icon, brand-ing itself, it is true, is the fact that among this outfit is the sweatshirt # MSGMCREW.

Not only the #hashtag presence is a worldwide web and socials deep and strong relationship, but also a symbol of enforcement and belonging.

So then in the Mean Girls like way cafeteria, we have single tables for specific "types" so MSGM has one of its own,

a real crew.

Photo Courtesy: MSGM

The Futuristic Soldier. Mugler Fall Winter 2013/2014

2013-01-28T15:45:00.001+01:00

Nicola Formichetti

after the Dazed's cover and strong partnership / relationship with the East with contemporary artists, that means generally by art in itself, as Kiko Mizuhara and the creation of the eponymous brand: Nicopanda,

made it to deliver east cultures and subcultures towards the west.

That techno urban air, geometrically fluorescent and shocking, impactful and strong.

Was already quite perceptible the cold atmosphere and, if you want, almost austere, masculine trends for the upcoming seasons, but in this case the austerity is softened by the color.

Coats almost midway between russia and asia, mandarin or hussar collrs, in any case a sort of Cold War soldier of the future, complete with buckles on the back of jackets, reminiscent of bullet-proof vests.

Indeed, it is a real soldier contemporary.

Just look at the first exit with the military geometric post-modern star trek-like way logo on top.

Mugl-Air.

The triangle, then, becomes the new (along with the logo areonautico) formal / informal symbol of the collection, a symbol that takes the plastic figure, the geometry of the jacket and the composure of the body.

This modernity is played very well on the use of materials, Romain Kremer, takes advantage of the versatility and character of technical fabrics such as latex or plastic, for overalls under a long coat tuxedo.

All this to end the show and to close the message.

But everything does not revolve only around the collection, which, yes is part around which everything rovolves, even the music, "I am MUGLER" by G Dragon from the K-Pop sensation BIGBANG, is a further proof and evidence of the link with Asia, and part of the goodresult.

A bond that we usually consider almost unusual approaching Russia and Asia, but the two creative directors have managed to find a way to link them together and make them unique, and through their history, creating a contemporary soldier or even,

perhaps, a fantastically futuristic one.

Photo Courtesy: Mugler

Be What You Wear. Stella Mccartney Pre-Fall 2013

2013-01-27T21:11:00.000+01:00

Being able to better express

what we have in mind is not always that easy.

At times fall shamefully with completely opposite messages, tumbling and imperceptibly understandable.

Stella McCartney goes against all of this, as always managing to keep firmly in her firm points: a woman comfortable and in harmony with herself.

(Sometimes this "peace" does not happen in the backstage, but let's be optimistic).

Already this air of relaxation and peace of mind is perceptibly "sniffable" through the silhouettes, from the most slouchy ones to the large and comfortable and to the most stringent as those of men.

An extra-large double breasted camel 60s like trench with blind stitch, is maybe the key through which, we can translate the message.

The ability to move completely contrary to the typical and mundane trendy shapes that wink and choke the body.

Here, therefore, that in addition to new shapes, have also come to the fore men's clothes, a woman must be able to make herself independent, right?

So here appear neck L-shaped clean jackets , blazer collar coats, and even moccasin-type shoes with python print.

To well define the body and make a rangy sense, here are the stripes.

Lines printed on the sides of pants and shirts, but also as an accompaniment to define and outline the coat.

It all starts to make 360 ° circular sense.

Numbers, geometry, golden numbers and then we find harmony in the geometric splitted patchwork-y velvet evening dresses, it seems that the passion for the Madeleine Vionnet 's numerical proportion has been kept by Stella to hand us today, a message that communicates strength and harmony with ourselves.

We have to wear what we want, what we like and makes us feel good.

That's what she thinks,

but many designers do not think so,

who should we believe in?

Photo Courtesy: Stella Mccartney

New Relationships. Antonio Marras + Piquadro Fall Winter 2013-2014 Text by Bianca Galmarini

2013-01-25T17:31:00.002+01:00

Impact and unpredictability.

Functionality and elegance.

The collaboration of Marras and Piquadro is an oxymoron. It is a risk that only the very best (all Italian) with two signatures of experience fails to operate. And not only work. The imperative of Piquadro is the high quality of the material, the ability to Marras wise use of exceptional fabrics: the result is admirable, it class, it is a bag that is anti-convention and convention at the same time. Fine, elegant, with a British touch with buckles and detail to make them practical and special, yet impact. Because the two colors of blue and burgundy, or green and brown folder, the camouflage of the case, the tartan of the bag, they promise to not go unnoticed. How it has managed to combine the two vocations brand? How has designed a line that has the unquestionable merit to reconcile the critical traditionalists and innovators more demanding, and offers a wide selection even coherent? How it has created a final product that is simply original and elegant? The application should be addressed to the authors, but the response we have under our eyes.

And it is marvelous.

Photo Courtesy: Antonio Marras