The Forthright Fork

Poon Kee: Cheap Eats from the Far East (of NYC!)

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 22:28:00 +0000

Poon Kee: Cheap Eats from the Far East (of NYC!)

March 21, 2013

Poon Kee's store front on a cold day.

Rating: ◊◊◊

NYC Chinatown is iconic. There’s a duck hanging in every window, cheap trinkets spilling out from souvenir shops onto the sidewalk and produce carts manned by wizened ladies gabbing loudly in Cantonese. But the sights that we’re familiar with only tell half the story. Literally.

In my experience, the Chinatown people think they know runs from Broadway in the west to Bowery in the east, with Canal serving as the main artery. But further east in the areas below the Manhattan bridge, there is a starkly different world. Gone are the tourists looking for a good deal, and in their place, dozens of simple shops and eateries trying to eke out an honest living. Frankly, it’s not the cleanest or the most gentrified neighborhood, but it sure does have some great food.

One shop A. and I have been excited to try is Poon Kee, a Hong Kong style, standing-room-only eatery featuring less than a dozen small snacks on its menu.

The shop owner hidden behind a shroud of steam.

We were met with a large gust of tepid vapor as we walked into the small shop, presumably caused by steaming food. In the fog, intimidating ladies were lading menu items into styrofoam clam shells and taking orders with a terse “what do you want?”

I've had my fair share of being yelled at for being slow, so I knew I had to be precise and unfussy with my selections. My must-have order was Cantonese stewed tripe with daikon radish. Cooked in this manner, tripe is a popular dim sum staple and I was curious to compare this homey version to the many others I've had in the past.

Simple and incredibly cheap.

Surprisingly, A. who is usually not a fan of noodles, was most excited about the plain rice rolls. Another well-known Cantonese snack, the rolls are simply steamed sheets of rice flour batter rolled into long tubes. Typically rice rolls have a filling like shrimp, beef or liver. However, Poon Kee’s starchy-white offering was only topped with a brown sauce, hot sauce and sesame seeds.

In addition to these two dishes, we also tried the Hong Kong style fish balls and beef chow fun. Our order came out to an unbelievable total of $8 – proving that eating in Chinatown East has its perks.

Al fresco, al freezing. Clockwise: fish balls, rice rolls, beef chow fun and stewed tripe.

Soft, chewy rice rolls.

Too hungry to eat our spoils at home, A. and I braved the cold and ate on a park bench near Poon Kee. A.’s out-of-character order made me rather curious to try the rice rolls first. Making sure to have a good roll-to-sauce ratio, I popped a piece into my mouth, expecting mediocrity. Instead, the toothsome rolls were very flavorful. For one, the brown sauce was actually a sesame paste, soy sauce and sugar concoction, glazing each roll with a nutty, salty sheen. What set these rice rolls apart, however, was the freshness of their base batter. The chewy rolls had a distinct sweetness and sticky texture that comes with using decent rice.

Honeycomb tripe - my favorite of the cow's 4 stomachs (I know, I'm so gross).

Next, I went for a bite of tripe. Cut into big slices, the honeycomb tripe was difficult to eat because the meat was quite chewy. Additionally, the tripe still retained some mineral notes that undeniably marked it as offal. Even though the tripe was generally enjoyable, both of these signs showed that the meat needed to be cooked down a tad longer.

As expected, the fish balls and chow fun were tasty but unremarkable. The premade chow-fun lacked its characteristic wok-hei smokiness (when food is stirfried over an extremely hot fire) and much of the added flavor had been negated by the absorbent rice noodles. Similarly, the fish balls were steamed store-bought fare – nothing special.

Spices and skewers. Nothing like a little street meat to complete the meal.

Leftovers in hand, we stopped by Division Street for a bonus XinJiang lamb skewer before heading home. This classic street snack of the Uigur minority is wildly popular in most parts of China, especially the Northern areas. Dressed with salt, chili powder and cumin, the skewers of fatty lamb are grilled over a charcoal fire. The end product is smoky, lusciously rich and incredibly delicious.

Come on, how amazing does that look?

Chinatown East remains one of the rare Manhattan neighborhoods still waiting to be discovered. Disguised by a gritty exterior and overshadowed by the hustle and bustle to the west, this area is filled with cheap restaurants, unique shops and friendly locals. After my experience at Poon Kee, I can’t wait to try more hidden gems.

Poon Kee
39 Monroe Street
New York, NY 10002

Fang Gourmet 2013 Tea Expo - Part 2: More Tea but Also Nut Butter and Jelly?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 17 Mar 2013 22:58:00 +0000

Fang Gourmet 2013 Tea Expo - Part 2: More Tea but Also Nut Butter and Jelly?

March 17, 2013

For a quick recap of the meal, check out the slide show at the bottom of the post.

To read the first half of this post, click HERE.

Bundled oolong tea leaves.

In the weeks following my first trip to Fang Gourmet’s 2013 Tea Expo, A. and I returned several times to satisfy our curiosity and taste buds. Not only did we drink more tea, we also sampled some unique treats from Taiwanese tea culture.

Determined to broaden our horizons, our game plan was to drink a variety of distinct tea styles (as opposed to fixating on the nuances within one class). In total, we tried several specimens from the Chinese red, tieguanyin, green oolong, semi-roasted oolong and cliff tea categories. Within these styles, 2 really stood out as my favorites.

Light, refreshing and great for cold-brewing in the summer.

I’ve always had a bias towards Taiwanese high-mountain oolong but Fang’s Da Yu Ling solidified my love for this type of tea. Named after the highest tea-growing peak in Taiwan, Da Yu Ling is a lush, lightly-oxidized oolong that exudes a beautiful floral scent. The brewed product has a gorgeous pale chartreuse color and lasts surprisingly long – even after 5 steeps, the tea retained its clean, smooth flavor and barely-there sweet finish.

Since tea generally takes on characteristics from its environment, the Da Yu Ling’s clean flavor is a likely result of the pure air and temperature swings of Taiwan’s mountain ranges. In addition, the misty weather quality of the peaks aid the oolong in developing a unique, rounded mouth feel that reminds me of breathing in fresh water vapor. To me, this delicate tea epitomizes soft, feminine grace.

It's hard to believe that this tieguanyin and the Da Yu Ling are from the same type of tea plant!

A powerful contrast to the demure Da Yu Ling is the 30% roasted tieguanyin. Translated to “Iron Bodhisattva,” tieguanyin is also an oolong by virtue of horticulture. However due vast differences in the fermentation and roasting process, the end product is generally separated into its own style. The tieguanyin we tasted was extra special: it was the winner of the expo’s tea aging contest.

Triumphing over other competitors with its exceptionally smooth mouth feel, this tieguanyin was sealed in an airtight container for a little over a year. The color of the tea leaves and the brewed product were both a lovely dark ochre. Upon my first sip, the tieguanyin tasted distinctly of charcoal and coffee with nutty overtones that made me almost forget I was drinking tea. In addition, its year-long aging did really make an impact – there was no bitter aftertaste and I couldn’t feel any dry patches in my throat. To be honest, I felt totally out of my league with this tieguanyin. Smokey and nuanced, this tea is definitely something I will need to revisit as I continue to develop my palate.

The ingredients and tools for making lei cha.

Moving away from traditional tastings, A. and I also explored some other tea-related delights. From the recesses of Fujianese/Taiwanese tea culture, Fang managed to revive a tradition that few in the U.S. (including myself) have heard of: lei cha. Meaning “pestle tea” or “pounded tea,” lei cha is a beverage produced by grinding down nuts, seeds, and dry tea leaves into a fine, oily paste and hydrating the mixture with pre-brewed tea. With a texture like natural peanut butter, the mixture must be ground as fine as possible to allow for proper infusion.

Beginning to crush the nuts...

Hand-ground nut butter - not an easy task...

That said, we had no idea how labor intensive making lei cha was until we began manning Fang’s large mortar and pestle. After close to an hour of surprisingly sweat-inducing effort, we were left with a glossy paste that was then combined with premade powder and hot tea.

Even though I knew there was no sugar in the tea, the opaque green color made me expect a sweet milk tea flavor. Instead, the lei cha was prominently vegetal. This was not surprising considering the beverage was made from raw pumpkin seeds, raw walnuts and green tea. While I grew to like the lei cha’s flavor, I wasn’t a fan of the unstrained nut byproduct that settled into the bottom of my cup. Gritty and overly rich, it made the overall experience feel more like eating than drinking.

I’m glad I was given the opportunity to try lei cha but I probably won’t seek it out in the future.

Tempting me with their glisten...

The last delicacy we sampled was Fang’s expo-only, homemade tea jellies. Available in plum tea, jasmine green tea and pudding, these Jell-O-like snacks were dainty and delicious. The jasmine jelly was especially refreshing. The cold, slippery texture combined with the sweet perfume of fresh jasmine made each bite feel like a splash of cool water on a hot summer day.

Some of the wonderful volunteers that worked the expo.

My experience at Fang’s tea expo was really a month long discovery process. Not only was I exposed to many varieties of tea, the staff at Fang also walked me through each tasting and help me learn the basics of appreciating tea. Since then, I've purchased a set of amateur teaware and begun tasting on my own. A.and I still have a lot to explore but it was really awesome to have an unexpected introduction to a cool new hobby.

Slide Show (Click the “i” for More Info on the Pictures):

Fang Gourmet Tea
135-25 Roosevelt Avenue
Queens, NY

Pulino's: My Go-To Sunday Brunch

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 01:54:00 +0000

Pulino's: My Go-To Sunday Brunch

February 28, 2013

Giant red sign - you can't miss it.

Rating: ◊◊◊◊

After you live somewhere for a while, you naturally start integrating yourself into the community. You develop habits and preferences, like buying groceries from the same corner deli, going to a trusted dry cleaners and of course, eating at your favorite neighborhood restaurant. Living in the Lower East Side for just under 2 years now, I certainly have my preferences. Pulino’s is the place that I always rely on for a great brunch and a relaxing afternoon.

The more casual sister of the popular Soho French bistro, Balthazar, Pulino’s focuses on simple Italian fare. The restaurant serves artisanal pizzas and pastas during dinnertime and offers an eclectic brunch menu on the weekends.

I love cracking the sugar with my spoon.

The goods. Look at that fancy grapefruit spoon!

Despite temptations like blueberry skillet-pancakes with lemon ricotta or smoked trout salad, I never stray from my 2 favorite menu items. First, the roasted grapefruit is a tasty bite that I love having before my savory main dish. Topped with a burnt muscovado sugar shell and fresh mint, the grapefruit is only cooked long enough for the pulp to loosen and release more juice. Molasses notes from the sugar are especially strong and pair well with the bitterness from the citrus. I wish this dish was served in a bowl instead of a plate – so I can gather up and enjoy every last drop of delicious juice!

If you like lighter coffee, Pulino's ice coffee is nutty yet refreshing.

Cheese + Spinach + Egg = YUM.

My other go-to staple at Pulino’s is the spinach brunch pizza. Swathed with a blend of mild and sharp Italian cheeses (Grana, Mozzarella, Mascarpone) and perfectly sautéed spinach, the pizza is taken to another level via a runny egg baked into the pie. The thin, crispy crust creates the perfect dough-to-topping ratio, providing just enough un-sauced crust for me to dip in creamy egg yolk. Plus if you like your pie spicy but don’t want hard red pepper flakes stuck in your teeth, Pulino’s also offers a luscious red pepper-infused olive oil on the side.

Perfectly cooked egg.

A. prefers more traditional egg dishes for brunch (i.e. not pizza) and ordered the pork belly potato hash special with two sunnyside up eggs.

Mix it all up for maximum enjoyment.

Hashes can be difficult to execute. Cooked not long enough, a hash simply ends up looking like a stir fry of mismoshed ingredients ( and hard potatoes). Cook it too long and it turns into shapeless goo. Pulino’s hash was well-prepared but had a noticeable imperfection. Left skin-on, some pieces of pork belly had a curiously unpleasant mouth feel that A. could only describe as “incredibly sticky.” If I had to guess, the meat probably first underwent searing to produce a crispy skin but was softened again when cooked as a component of the hash. Despite this, A. and I actually enjoyed the flavors of the hash very much. Not only did the collagen from the pork belly produce a delightfully caramelized outer crust, the potatoes and sweet peppers were also tender and well-seasoned.

Diners at the bar. I can't even imagine how many bottles there are.

Aside from the good food, the service and jazzy ambiance are also reasons why I go to Pulino’s so often. Although the dining room is always filled with people, I’ve never waited to be seated (a miracle in NYC on a Sunday). Additionally, the restaurant’s 12 foot ceilings, large windows and wall-to-wall displays of whiskey bottles attract a wonderful amount natural sunlight. The airy yet rustic atmosphere is ideal for meeting up with old friends.

So much lovely sunlight.

Pulino's
282 Bowery
New York, NY

Got any recommendations for places to try? Let me know in the comment section!

Fang Gourmet 2013 Tea Expo - Part 1: Tasting without Pretenses

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 04:11:00 +0000

Fang Gourmet 2013 Tea Expo - Part 1: Tasting without Pretenses

February 26, 2012

Gorgeous tea cups and saucers.

When it comes to tea, I’m no stranger. I've observed tea-drinking cultures all over the world, visited famous tea-centric locales and even participated in several traditional tea ceremonies. Yet despite all of these exotic first-hand experiences, my edification and enjoyment of this versatile beverage was finally sparked a few weeks ago in a place I least expected… Queens.

Believe me, the irony is not lost on me.

This adventure began at the behest of a good friend. Tired of the same old Chinese food get-togethers we normally have, my friend invited a group of us to visit Fang Gourmet, a popular tea shop in Flushing. Upon arrival, we were fortunate to discover a happy coincidence: Fang was holding its annual month-long expo at a Sheraton nearby. Promises of great tea and beautiful china easily convinced us to pay the expo a visit.

Fang's small year-around shop.

At the expo: front tasting station and tea menu.

The rectangular exhibition hall was filled with small tasting stations, elegant teaware and pouring tablets. In the front of the room sat a large board covered with the names of dozens of teas. There were the usual categories like Chinese red (what English speakers refer to as black tea) and green tea, but the board also featured more obscure styles such as cliff, Chinese black, pu'er, oolong and white tea.

As we sat down and prepared for service, I conceitedly thought that my prior experiences would make me be a cut above the average patron, that there would be no surprises. I immediately tried to steer the group towards trying a Taiwanese high-mountain oolong, a clean, mid-bodied tea with light floral notes. I also warned them against drinking pu'er, a strong tea that often tasted like herbal medicine.

However, our gracious tea pourer (the real expert), Theresa, had a different idea. She recommended that we sample something we've never seen anywhere else. Much to my chagrin, she had a point. Ultimately, we opted to try a 100 Year-Old Ancient Tree raw pu'er.

Our unexpected selection.

Theresa explained that unlike the cooked pu'er that people most commonly drink (the one I dislike), the Ancient Tree pu'er is harvested and air-dried when the young leaves are still raw. Because heat will undeniably change the flavor profile of tea, air-drying will preserve the pu'er's natural flavor and aroma. Consequently, raw pu'er has a cleaner taste and is lighter on the palate as compared to dense, dark bricks of traditional cooked pu'er.

I examined the dry, brittle leaves. They were so foreign, so different from what I expected. Finding myself back to square one, my skepticism and false confidence began to seem a little foolish.

Gai wan in action.

Taking out a deep ceramic cup with a lid, Theresa began to prime the tea using the gai wan method of brewing. Literally translated to “covered bowl,” gai wan uses the ceramic lid to control of the tea’s exposure to air. The pourer can call on this technique to easily optimize the temperature and strength of each steep.

Nectar of the gods!

Going through the motions, the first steep acts as a preliminary cleaning – hot water is poured onto the tea then immediately drained, forcing the leaves to release and rehydrate. The second steep is the first tasting. Colored like warm amber, the tea exuded aromatics of dried hay and fresh tobacco. Slowly taking a sip, I found the raw pu'er to be slightly dry, incredibly complex and most of all, delicious. Hints of sweetness undercut the bitter overtones, building an indescribable earthiness which permeated my nose and throat.

Fully expended tea leaves. It's amazing how large they are after they're fully rehydrated.

After finishing several rounds of this beautiful brew, Theresa encouraged us to smell our empty cups. To my surprise, the initial woodsy aroma had been completely erased by a deep fruit fragrance, like dates soaked in warm honey. The smell was positively addictive. I’m pretty sure I embarrassed everyone in my party because I smelled my cup for so long.

As if the raw pu'er wasn't incredible enough, Fang also serves an expo-only specialty: hardboiled eggs infused with its premium teas. Tea eggs are popular snack in many Chinese households and are usually made with a combination of soy sauce, tea and spices. Taking this a step further, Fang’s eggs are slowly braised in the soy-tea liquid for 3 days before they are ready to be eaten.

Mind-numbing deliciousness.

Up close, my perfumed egg was smoky brown with a rich yellow yolk. It looked darker and drier than other preparations I've had before, a clear sign of long hours spent on the stove. Smooth, floral notes of strong tea came forth as soon as I took my first bite, overwhelming my senses before settling into a mellow hum against the savory soy sauce. Having had so many examples of oversalted, waterlogged and sulfur-flavored (from overcooking) tea eggs, I really appreciated the craftsmanship that went into creating this perfect snack.

A couple cups of tea and a hardboiled egg was all it took - I was hooked and there was no turning back. Not only did I feel humbled by the collective knowledge and expertise of Fang’s staff, I was motivated by this experience to open my mind and continue honing my palate for all types of tea.

Realizing that there was still weeks left to the expo, I knew I would be back for more... TO BE CONTINUED!

Fang Gourmet Tea
135-25 Roosevelt Avenue
Queens, NY

Soba Totto: King of the Midtown Lunch Special

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 03:17:00 +0000

Soba Totto: King of the Midtown Lunch Special

February 25,2013

Endless buckwheat.

Rating: ◊◊◊½

My job is a bit like firefighting. When there’s work, it comes in tidal waves, filling my weeks with late nights, stress and headaches. And when there isn't work, I’m often left twiddling my thumbs and counting down the seconds to the end of the day. As monotonous as an everyday 9-5 job may seem, I’m actually pretty envious of people who have a predictable work schedule.

However, one perk I enjoy on the slow days is the option to sneak out for a "grander-than-the-everyday-soup-and-salad" lunch. My office is not too far from what I dub the “Triple-S Triumvirate,” a cluster of excellent Japanese restaurants consisting of Sakagura, Soba Totto and Sushi Yasuda. Craving noodles and rice, my coworkers and I decided to visit the least extravagant of the three, Soba Totto.

We were the first ones here!

We managed to beat the lunch rush and arrived just as the restaurant was opening. Not only were we immediately seated, our timely entrance also meant that Soba Totto still had plenty of its 20 limited-serving Bara Chirashi lunch special. Featuring a kaisen-don (chirashi / sashimi rice bowl), fresh side salad, hijiki pickle (black seaweed) and a serving of zaru soba (cold buckwheat noodles with dipping sauce), the lunch set is a royal feast with a pauper's price tag of only $10.

Preferring something heartier than raw fish, my coworkers ordered the pork belly don set, gyu-don set and galbi-don set. I, on the other hand, found the lunch special to be too good to pass up.

The slight bitterness of the mesclun worked really well in this salad.

Soba Totto’s starter salad is a pleasant deviation from the typical offering that accompanies most Japanese meals. Instead of using iceberg lettuce and carrot-ginger dressing (lumpy, orange goo, in my opinion), the salad consists of mesclun mix gently tossed in a light ponzu sauce and topped with spiced, fried soba. The interplay between the vegetal, vinegary leaves and the crunchy noodles primed our stomachs and whet our appetites for the heartier courses to come.

Oh hello, giant lunch!

Leisurely chatting with my coworkers, I was totally taken by surprise when the waitress delivered my gigantically portioned lunch set to the table. The rice bowl, a meal in its own right, was filled to the brim with chopped tuna, mackerel, salmon and shrimp; tobiko (flying fish roe); and luscious tongues of fresh uni.

The entire ocean in one bowl... plus shredded omelette and avocado!

I thought I wouldn’t like it, but the small dice of the fish made the kaisen don rather fun to eat. The sweet pop of tobiko, juicy bits of shrimp, buttery uni – each bite highlighted a new flavor, texture and aroma.

My only critique is that I could have done without the mackerel. Oil-rich and pungent, mackerel is a tricky fish to serve even when it’s fresh. Mixed with the other ingredients in the bowl, the mackerel tasted a bit soapy and overwhelmed some of the subtler components.

As for the soba, my lunch included an elephantine mound of noodles that proved to be refreshing and bright despite its intimidating size. Soba Totto uses shredded shiso in addition to chopped scallions, adding a herbaceous, lemony twist to the classic preparation.

I'll eat anything if I have to, but hijiki is definitely one of my no-no foods.

Lastly, I only had a small bite of the hijiki pickle – the fishy seaweed is too strong for my tastes.

Soba Totto is a tasty option for a sit-down lunch break away from the office. The dishes were well prepared and the large portions could have easily fed a team of starving athletes. For me especially, Soba Totto was a steal. Including tax and tip, my food only set me back a grand total of $14.

You might still be wondering how it’s possible for a popular Midtown restaurant to serve a luxurious offering like the Bara Chirashi at such a low price. Frankly, I suspect that the chopped fish in the kaisen-don probably comprises of odd cuts that are high-quality but nonetheless imperfect. Being a staunch believer in nose-to-tail eating, this doesn't bother me at all. In fact, it’s awesome that Soba Totto is able to use these fresh but slightly problematic ingredients to provide diners with a pragmatic and creative meal.

Inspired by it's sister restaurant Yakitori Totto, Soba Totto also uses the signature kanji meaning "bird."

Soba Totto
211 E 43rd St.
New York, NY

2013 Winter Restaurant Week: DB Bistro Moderne

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 20:20:00 +0000

2013 Winter Restaurant Week: DB Bistro Moderne

February 24, 2012

For a quick recap of the meal, check out the slide show at the bottom of the post.

Typical Boulud-style interior - sophisticated and posh.

Rating: ◊◊½*

* indicates a proxy rating, meaning that the meal being reviewed was part of a special event or promotion.

Twice a year in winter and summer, NYC sponsors a city-wide Restaurant Week. During this time, diners can enjoy pre-fixe 3-course meals in many high-end restaurant for only a fraction of the normal price.

Sounds awesome, right?

Well, yes and no.

On the surface, Restaurant Week’s appeal is pretty obvious. The promotion provides interested eaters with an opportunity to sample elevated cuisine and lavish service without worrying about the bill. Especially for those of us who are price sensitive or budget constrained, Restaurant Week is the perfect time to enjoy a special meal with friends and loved ones.

Packed on a Tuesday night!

But by another perspective, Restaurant Week can be kind of gimmicky. Restaurants will often create condensed menus with low-cost, fast-to-cook ingredients that don’t accurately represent the kitchen’s style of cuisine or true talent. In addition, high diner volume and quick table-turn mentality likely means that the lavish service will not be so lavish after all. In some of my worst experiences, I've walked away from 4-5 star restaurants hugely disappointed and never wanting to come back.

Personally, I’m not a fan of Restaurant Week (as if you couldn’t tell from the mini-rant above). But for one reason or another, I usually end up having one or two RW meals a year. This time, A.’s dad came to NYC on business and we were looking to have an opportune dinner around Grand Central. We ultimately decided on DB Bistro Moderne.

With pre-fixe menus, A. and I like to “divide and conquer” by ordering different items to maximize variety. Therefore, I picked foie gras torchon, grilled dorade and a chocolate tart as my 3 courses whereas A. went with salmon tartar, cassoulet and a creamsicle cheesecake as his. We also ordered a escargot with chicken oysters which was not included in the Restaurant Week promotion.

I’ll start with a few highlights of the meal:

Escargot?

First up, I quite enjoyed the escargot. Served without shells in a little Le Cruset casserole dish, the combination of snails, poultry and herbs epitomized the concept of earthy. The chicken oysters, in particular, had a lovely springy texture and a savory, crunchy char.

However, the dish did seem a little busy – there were so many components that any focus on the escargot was completely lost. The overall flavors were rather muddled and truthfully, I’m not even sure I could identify some of ingredients I ate.

Beautiful presentation.

I also liked my foie gras torchon with gingerbread. Creamy and slightly sweet, the liver medallion was a rich bite that paired well with the brioche toast and fruit jam that accompanied it. The gingerbread crumbs and cubes were also an interesting touch that intensified the fruit and nut notes. And despite the fancy presentation, the flavor of the foie was actually rather homey and reminded me a lot of the bistro food I had in France.

But for all the good, there were also a lot of bad.

Poorly executed confusion.

For one, I really didn't like A.’s salmon tartare. Paired with an apple gelee that looked like ravaged Jell-O, the fish was gummy and one-note. Attention to detail and nuance was practically non-existent. It was obvious that the kitchen had been turning these plates out like a factory.

Reminds me of a sad clown.

Nothing was as sad as A.’s creamsicle cheesecake dessert, though. The texture was strangely gooey, like the cake hadn’t quite cooked all the way through before it was chilled. The macerated citrus on top of the cake lacked ripeness and didn’t provide the dish with any of the much needed acidity.

More than anything, I was just really disappointed with the execution of the cheesecake. Conceptually, this dish had the most potential for greatness. Tangy orange and smooth vanilla is a classic combination that balances acid with sugar and fruit with cream. But instead of getting a dessert which elevates this beloved marriage, we got a mediocre dish attempted to hide its flaws behind a nostalgic novelty.

At least there were free macarons! Meyer lemon flavored to celebrate the winter season.

As expected, Restaurant Week 2013 was a bit of a bust. Out of all the lackluster dishes we had, every single one had some sort of execution error. I haven’t had the fortune (no pun intended) to eat at Daniel yet, but I imagine Chef Boulud would be somewhat embarrassed by the quality of the food at DB Bistro Moderne that evening. There was a noticable lack of attention to the RW items and in my opinion, this carelessness even affected some of the items we ordered from the regular menu.

One thing I will say however is that cost-wise, choosing the RW pre-fixe over regular dishes is a no-brainer. Comparing the two options, the 3-course RW meal totaled $38, whereas a single entrée from the regular menu would have set me back $42.

Therefore, if you’re dying to go to a place that you can’t afford normally, I say take the plunge next Restaurant Week and treat yourself. You might be taking a risk in terms of food and service but it’s better than missing out on something you’ve been dying to try.

On the other hand, if you’re just looking for a good meal with a ~$40 per person check, my recommendation is to skip the promotion and try a modestly priced restaurant with a reputation for delicious eats.

Slide Show (Click the “i” for More Info on the Pictures):

DB Bistro Moderne
55 W 44th St #1
New York, NY

A great budget dining resource: Serious Eats’ list of great restaurants with RW prices

Valentine's Day 2013: Chocolate Haul!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 18 Feb 2013 05:57:00 +0000

Valentine's Day 2013: Chocolate Haul!

February 17, 2013

Hmm... I wonder what is inside?

Just wanted to do a quick post about the lovely chocolates I got to eat on Valentine's Day this year!

The past few weeks have been extremely hectic, so A. and I didn't have plans to celebrate. Instead, we each bought a box of chocolates and ended our February 14th with some long-awaited sweets.

The consummate crowd-pleaser for people with different tastes (from top going left to right): Earl Grey, Raspberry, Coconut, Lavender, Black Sesame, Blood Orange, Dark Chocolate, Salted Caramel, Yuzu, Ginger, Green Tea and Champagne

Knowing that A. has a penchant for interesting flavors, I stopped by Kee's Chocolates in Midtown to pick up a box of 12 truffles. Kee's is well known for using smooth, fruity dark chocolate and creating truffles with thin, delicate shells. The confections here are perfect for a loved one that has an open mind.

When a store offers truffles flavored with Yuzu, Earl Grey, Cayenne and Lavender, you know your taste buds are in for an adventure. For me, some highlights in my box of delights were the Champagne, Black Sesame and Dark Chocolate. These flavors were balanced and not too sweet. The Black Sesame, in particular, was very aromatic. As I chewed, the roasted seeds broke apart and melded with the soft ganache within - it was quite pleasant and reminded me a lot of fresh nut butter.

Utterly scrumptious.

I also picked up a couple of Kee's famous Creme Brulee Truffles as a special Day-Before-Valentine's treat. As soon as I sank my teeth into these sizable hexagons, I immediately understood where all the hype was coming from. They were an one-bite affair filled with an impossibly creamy vanilla custard. The truffle broke apart in my mouth very much like a real bite of creme brulee except with dark chocolate standing in for burnt sugar. Out of all the Kee's confections I've had, the Creme Brulee Truffle definitely reigns as my favorite.

A.'s present for me came from Neuhaus. A two-tier combination of dark and milk truffles, the box also featured an hidden ingredient that was present in almost all of the chocolates: hazelnut.

From top to bottom: hazelnut, hazelnut, hazelnut, hazelnut, hazelnut. Did I mention there was hazelnut?

Milky, nutty and very sweet, each piece melted in my mouth without much effort. I loved the Nutella-esque flavor and while it got a little monotonous, I found the overall Neuhaus box much more enjoyable than the Kee's box. Among the bunch, I especially loved the ones that had a Gianduja filling (milk chocolate containing 30%+ hazelnut paste) with crunchy cereal bits.

This Valentine's Day was actually one of the best I've ever had. Sampling so many chocolates and unwinding after a long day's work was just what I needed. It just goes to show you that even the fanciest dinners and the wildest parties can't beat simply being with the people you love.

Kee's Chocolates
Multiple Locations
New York, NY

Neuhaus
Multiple Locations
New York, NY

Eating in Winter

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 04 Feb 2013 04:03:00 +0000

Eating in Winter

February 3, 2012

Please comment below if you would like any of the recipes for the dishes in this post!

One-pot wonder.

Winter may be a magical time of year filled with snow, family and nights by the fireplace, but it is also the season of inevitable weight gain. We've all been there: when the thermometer red begins dipping, we also can't stop dipping... and slurping, noshing, schmearing and chewing. The eating never seems to end and the calories just keep piling on.

Of course, the simple solution to maintaining your weight during these trying months is to take the high road and choose healthy salads and light soups. But for me and I suspect for a lot of people, the prospect of eating cold, out-of-season foods during frosty days and frigid nights sounds less than appealing.

Feeling inspired by this, I wanted to challenge myself by creating a complete Winter dinner (even dessert!) that is both healthy and hearty. I scoured the internet and flipped through all my cookbooks until I came up with 4 recipes that were warm and nourishing without being too rich.

To start, I found two salads from the Zuni Cafe cookbook that used substantial ingredients but yielded refreshing results.

Tastes better than it looks! Note to self: if you want real ribbons, buy a mandolin.

First up is a raw portobello ribbon salad with fresh mint and lemon vinaigrette. The spongy texture of the raw mushrooms may not be for everyone but I found the earthy flavor and fluffy mouth-feel to be rather pleasant. A sprinkling of fresh mint chiffonade balanced the dish, allowing the brightness of the lemon to marry the natural musk of the portobellos. The recipe also called for a drizzle of softened creme fraiche but after trying the salad both ways, I feel that this touch is entirely optional.

Crunchy and fresh!

Wanting more fiber, I also prepared a wilted escarole with lemon peel. In both this dish and the mushroom salad, I substituted regular lemon juice and peel with Meyer lemon. I couldn't resist the fragrance and sweetness of this special citrus. As soon as I found out it was in season, I immediately stocked up.

The Meyer lemon peels added leaps of flavor to the escarole, complementing the bitterness already present in the greens. The watery stem ends of the escarole were particular tasty. Although next time, I think I will layer on some fresh chives and add a more savory touch to the dish.

For our main course, I again consulted the Zuni Cafe cookbook and found a wine braised duck with prunes. In an effort to make it healthier (and cheaper), I substituted the duck legs for chicken.

Surprisingly, the onions and prunes are just as good (if not better!) as the chicken!

This dish is a great example of comfort meets healthy. The rich wine sauce and luxuriously velvety prunes make it hard to believe that there's no added oil in the dish. And while the chicken drumsticks still had skin, the legs were seared and the fat was rendered before the meat continued to cook in the oven.

If you're a fan of poultry flavor, this dish will definitely satisfy your cravings. After braising on low heat for an hour, the drumsticks are infused deeply with spice and fruit, turning the subtle taste of dark meat chicken on full blast. As for the texture, the meat incredibly is tender, just beginning to fall off of the bone. When enjoying this, I loved combining a juicy bite of wine-filled prune with a bite of savory chicken.

Now for the hard part: dessert. After staying quite virtuous with the last 3 dishes, I didn't want to ruin the meal with something too rich. Doing healthy versions of pies and cakes seemed like a cop-out that was guaranteed to result in dissatisfaction.

Super creamy.

Instead, I decided to go with a vanilla buttermilk panna cotta with macerated strawberries and a balsamic reduction. The interplay of the sweet berries with the tangy reduction brought life to the otherwise mild custard. In addition, the buttermilk substituted a good portion of cream and still gave the panna cotta its signature silky-smooth texture.

Winter eating can be both healthy and hearty. It's nice to know that with a little planning and troubleshooting, I no longer need to sacrifice my cravings for comforting food. To me, this meal was quite successful. When I finished, I didn't have that gut-bomb feeling I often get after eating heavy food. And at the same time, each dish was still stick-to-your-bones good.

Now I just have to think of a way to get rid of the pounds that I've already put on...

Café Habana: Bringing the Sabor to Soho

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:09:00 +0000

Café Habana: Bringing the Sabor to Soho

January 27, 2013

Snowflakes in Cuba?

Rating: ◊◊◊

When I’m starving and looking to gorge on something delicious, I don’t immediately think to go to the one place in New York known for trendy boutiques and skinny people. You know where I’m talking about: Soho.

But between the clothing racks and expensive labels, there’s actually a lot of really tasty (and surprisingly hearty) food in Soho. Café Habana, a little Mexican-Cuban diner on the corner of Prince and Elizabeth, is the perfect example of this.

A. and I walked in on a Sunday night for what we thought would be a quiet, lazy dinner. But far from peaceful, we were surprised to find the small restaurant filled with people, sitting bunched together and in awkward spaces. The whole scene looked too cramped to be comfortable but the diners were clearly enjoying their meals and the merry atmosphere. Seeing this, we couldn't help but be pulled in - smiling faces and candid laughs can often be the best testament to a restaurant's food quality.

A packed house.

As for what to order, A. went for Mexican and I wanted Cuban.

Pork!!!

Going with the classic Cuban protein of choice, I ordered a plate of roast pork, yellow rice and a substitution of garlicky spinach (it originally comes with beans). The pork was slow-cooked and very juicy, falling apart as I dug in. The meat had a wonderful balance, showcasing not only the rich, savory qualities of Latin-Caribbean cooking but also bold, citrusy influences from Mexico.

The rice and spinach weren't just mundane sides either. I usually don't like Latin-style rice because it can often be a mushy, clumped or oily filler on meat-centric plates. However, Café Habana's rice was fluffy and light. Each bite had a comforting sweetness and the buttery grains held up well when I used it to sop up residual sauce from the rest of the dish. The spinach was well-cooked, too. Not overly wilted, the greens packed a noticeable punch of fresh garlic taste and had a velvety smooth texture. My only critique is that it could have been more generously salted.

Secret enchiladas...

Meanwhile on the other side of the table, A. was busy wolfing down his Enchiladas con Mole. A. has always been a big fan of this traditional Mexican sauce and was quite impressed with Café Habana's rendition. Full-bodied and filled with aromatic spices, the smoky Mole draped the entire plate in a blanket of lush earthiness. A. had to stop himself from licking the plate clean.

By the end of our meal, I was so full that I couldn't even think about dessert. I know it wouldn't be true Latin hospitality if our plates weren't brimming with ample portions but I would have liked having the flexibility to try a couple other items without feeling wasteful or bringing home leftovers. Next time, I think I'll rely on the tacos and appetizers for more variety (Cotija grilled corn - I've got my eye on you!).

Overall, Café Habana is a warm and lighthearted place to have a filling meal. The service is friendly, the music is boisterous and most importantly, the food is delicious.

Keep an eye out - it's quite easy to miss!

Cafe Habana
17 Prince Street
New York, NY 10012

Not Your Mama's Fruit Plate

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 21 Jan 2013 04:32:00 +0000

Not Your Mama's Fruit Plate

January 20, 2013

As much as I love the entirety of the food pyramid, my favorite food group is probably fruit. I think it's because fruits have so many varying flavors, fragrances and textures - eating them never bores me.

One of the best places to get fresh fruit is Flushing, Queens. This Asia-away-from-Asia has some of the most exotic fruit I've seen in the United States. And in recent years, the produce quality just keeps getting better and better.

This time, I picked a few things to make myself a proper fruit plate.

Clockwise from the top: korean pear, starfruit, dragon fruit, and guava.

For people who have never seen or eaten these fruits before, do not be afraid! These guys are not at all hard to enjoy.

With the exception of the dragon fruit, all the specimens above simply need to be washed before you can take a big bite out of them (slicing is actually pretty optional). But as for that scaly, pink football, it should be dispatched like a melon - remove both ends to cut into slices or peel the skin and scoop out the inside.

All sliced up.

One of the biggest reasons I picked these particular fruits is because they are so distinct from one another. With attributes like sour, mushy, crunchy, sweet and spongy all floating around on the same plate, the differences from one bite to the next can be very interesting and quite fun. Here's what you can expect:

Guavas (small, with beige seeds) are extremely fragrant. When ripe, this small fruit can fill an entire room with its flowery perfume. You have to eat around the hard, small seeds but the texture is quite pleasant - like a cross between a soft pear and a banana.

The Korean pear (brown skin, thin slices) can be best described as refreshing. Each bite fills your mouth with sweet, crisp juice. It's best to stick it in the fridge and save it as a dessert for a rich meal.

Although the starfruit (the fruit that looks like stars!) is most often purchased and eaten because it looks really awesome, it's actually quite tasty. The tangy, grape-flesh provides an interesting contrast to the waxy outer skin.

A dragon fruit's flesh (pink rind - not edible) is very mild and almost a little savory. Though most often eaten raw, some people like to stir-fry it with vegetables and meat. Personally, I like the tiny black seeds. Like in kiwis, they add an extra, unexpected crunch.

At the end of the day, these fruits are just a few of the many hundreds of different delicacies to be had. Depending on the season you can find many more interesting fruits in Flushing or at your local international market.

I recommend buying a bunch and sampling them with friends. You might be surprised by what you discover and even find some new favorites!

How to pick a ripe:

Guava
Korean Pear
Starfruit
Dragon Fruit

Ichimura at Brushstroke: Precision, Brilliance and Transcendence

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:00:00 +0000

Ichimura at Brushstroke: Precision, Brilliance and Transcendence

January 14, 2012

For a quick recap of the meal, check out the slide show at the bottom of the post.

Symbolic lighting, no?

Rating: ◊◊◊◊◊

Once in a while, something will come along and knock the wind right out of you. Whether it's a person, a place or an experience, it touches you so intensely that you find yourself irrevocably altered and deeply humbled by its arrival.

I had such an experience when I met Eiji Ichimura.

A quiet man with nimble hands and warm smile, Ichimura-san has spent the last 42 years perfecting his craft: traditional edo-mae sushi. Every night, he artfully transports 16 lucky guests to an ethereal world filled with delicate slices of sashimi and glistening nigiri. In his hands, each ingredient is simplified down to its purest form, creating the most incomprehensible and mystifying depths of flavor.

Ichimura-san's 8-seat sushi bar is hidden within David Bouley's Tribeca "kaiseki" house, Brushstroke. To honor this symbiotic relationship, our omakase began with a chawanmushi with truffle ankake sauce from the main kitchen.

Succulent, but lacking in finesse.

Topped with golden and dungeness crab, the savory custard had a pleasant mouth feel that alternated between firm crab meat and silken egg. Yet, the Brushstroke dish was generally unimpressive. Its flavors proved it to be a sore attempt at reconciling Japanese cooking methods with expensive Western ingredients. The chives and truffle were particularly harsh and overwhelming.

Despite a somewhat unsuccessful first course, I knew my luck was about to change when a train of amuse bouches came to me from Ichimura-san's kitchen.

From right to left: Ankimo (monkfish liver) cooked in sake; Crab with miso; Marinated scallop; Maitake mushrooms with clam; Tako (octopus); Pressed kazunoko (herring roe); and Braised toro (fatty tuna).

Eaten in succession, these fleeting bites captured a spectrum of subtle flavors and unusual textures. From the pillowy, soft ankimo to the spongy kazunoko, I was surprised and delighted by each component. The ankimo was particularly light and clean, almost like an aerated foie gras that renounced its earthy flavors for a briny taste of the sea. I also found the tako quite enjoyable. Unbelievably tender, the sliver of octopus provided a sweetness that wonderfully contrasted the fattiness of other ingredients.

In addition to the amuses, a small cup of uni accompanied the set. Upon closer examination, I found the uni to be within a clear liquid, which Ichimura-san later indicated was fresh sea water. He encouraged us to fish the uni out of its marinade and take it in one bite.

Gorgeous.

It was remarkable. Simply paired with sea water, the uni is masterfully showcased in its own habitat. The freshness of the product was undeniable - the sweetness of the roe bounced onto my tongue with an intensity that I could have never expected.

After tasting the uni, I knew Ichimura-san was poised to give me the meal of a life time. Using a square black plate, he slowly began to fill its surface area with the second arc of our omakase: sashimi.

Watching a shokunin (master artisan) in the throes of his craft is truly inspiring. Each slice of fish was produced with such concentrated precision, with pure muscle memory honed from 4 decades of dedication. The succession of sashimi was presented to us as we ate - once a spot on the plate was cleared, Ichimura-san would fill it again with a new type of fish.

So much for pink pickled ginger...

Our condiments were also quite distinct. We were encouraged to eat our fish with myoga shoots (a type of ginger), wakame (seaweed), sliced shiso leaf, and a gorgeous small pile of fresh grated wasabi. As for salt, two types were provided for experimenting: a traditional sea salt gathered from the coast of Japan and soy sauce.

Needless to say, the fish was wonderful. Each piece of fish was perfected aged and exuded a nutty quality that exemplified the very foundations of umami. Also as we ate, the translucent, lighter slices would be replaced by fish in increasing fattiness. I found this technique quite brilliant, as it builds the subtle flavor of the overall progression without ruining the diner's palate.

For me, there were 3 standouts from my sampling of 8 fish.

Our first round of sashimi. Notice the engawa tucked underneath the hirame on the lower left. The katsuo is on the upper left.

First, I loved the engawa, the fin muscle of fluke. Springy in texture, the engawa had the body of fresh squid with a more focused sweetness than hirame (regular fluke). The bite was an excellent example that sometimes the delicacy lies in the less expensive cuts.

I also loved the katsuo (bonito/skipjack tuna). I was excited to try fresh katsuo because it's most often consumed in dried form as bonito flakes or in dashi (Japanese stock). Eaten with sea salt and wakame, the katsuo was incredibly fragrant and smooth. Although it was raw, the katsuo still retained hints of smoky, dashi flavor.

Marbling. Marbling! MARBLING!

Finally, the o-toro (fattiest cut of tuna) took me by surprise. I've had o-toro before but found the richness very strong and overwhelming. And as expected the fish was extremely rich and buttery - so much so that I had trouble finishing it. However as the tender meat slowly dissipated on my tongue, the mellow, unctuous flavor eventually won me over.

At this point I was already feeling full, but Ichimura-san was not done. Eschewing his offer for more sashimi, we finally arrived at the finale: nigirizushi.

Two types of paper thin o-toro?! I can't even comprehend how he sliced it so thin.

What followed can only be described as an exercise in utter pleasure. From Ichimura-san's skillful hands the nigiri came one-by-one, as satin sheets of razor thin fish were expertly pressed onto mounds of the most delicious rice. The sushi vinegar brought a delicate balance to the mild rice, allowing each glistening, perfectly cooked grain to play an aromatic role in the supple texture of each nigiri. With each bite, the combination of soy, wasabi, fish and rice engulfed my senses and flooded my taste buds.

Like a jewel.

Among the fish featured with rice, the shima aji (horse mackerel) and the uni were absolutely mind blowing. Covered in a gorgeous patina of soy sauce, the shima aji had an amazingly toothsome texture and a savoriness that can only be found in species from the mackerel family. In addition, the slight fishiness from the shiny skin added complexity to its overall flavor, making it much more interesting (and delicious) to eat than other subtler fishes.

A panty-dropper if I've ever seen one...

But even the shima aji cannot compare to the utter synapse-exploding experience of eating Ichimura-san's uni nigiri. Composed solely of fresh wasabi and uni draped precariously over a small dab of rice, the simple bite was incredibly lush. The fragile roe yielded tenderly to reveal a creaminess unlike anything I've ever had. In fact, the uni was so delicious that A. and I each requested a second piece at the very end of our meal.

After it was all over, when the dishes were cleared and we were each left with only a hot cup of hoji cha, A. and I could do nothing but stare at each other, dumbfounded by the amazing meal we had. Ichimura at Brushstroke was nothing short of a revelation. In the artful execution of simple but deeply flavorful sushi, I could see the dedication and hard work of Ichimura-san, his kitchen crew and an entire history of masters in their quest to perfect this incredible cuisine.

Of course, this glowing review does come with a warning: I definitely advise interested diners to have some previous experience with eating traditional sushi. Many of the fish can be quite subtle to someone who hasn't developed a basic background in this type of food. It may be more worthwhile to try some less formal venues before building your way up to Ichimura at Brushstroke.

Not for the faint of heart.

Also, the omakase is not for diners with weak stomachs. You may think I'm referring to exoticism of the ingredients but truthfully, eating so much raw protein can be extremely hard on your digestive system. I recommend eating lightly and staying in good health before subjecting your body to this potent meal.

Nevertheless, I feel my epicurean experience with Ichimura-san was both exquisite and enlightening. I learned and tasted more in the way of ingredients, technique and history than I would ever expected from a 2 hour meal. I can't wait to return and explore more of the intricate world of sushi, with Ichimura-san guiding the way.

Slide Show (Click the “i” for More Info on the Pictures):

Ichimura at Brushstroke
30 Hudson Street
New York, NY 10013

Economy Candy: A Real-Life Candyland

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 06 Jan 2013 03:17:00 +0000

Economy Candy: A Real-Life Candyland

January 5, 2012

Just when I thought I finally had the Lower East Side all figured out, I visited Economy Candy and had my mind blown all over again.

Since 1937, Economy Candy has been supplying Manhattan (and other boroughs, I suspect) with endless amounts of sugar-highs and nostalgia. This massive candy store literally has over a thousand varieties of sweets, ranging from the common Halloween fun-size bags of chocolate to rare and discontinued candies from abroad.

Fruit overload!

I can't even think of the last time I've even seen a piece of Bazooka gum...

Personally, I can definitely vouch for the impressive selection of merchandise at Economy Candy. During my visit, I was shocked to find milky (strawberry cream, pudding, choco-vanilla, etc.) Chupa-Chups in stock (no picture, unfortunately). These lollipops are a favorite of A.'s but were discontinued outside of their native Spain. We sadly didn't buy any, however, because they were only sold in 2 lb. gift tins.

In terms of what we did buy, we first took advantage of Economy Candy's giant Jelly Belly dispenser. There were tons of flavors such as watermelon, mango, apple and even the infamous buttered popcorn. We tried to keep it manageable and left with just a small bag of the cinnamon, cream soda, creamsicle and pear flavors.

These beans over real beans every time.

I was also super excited to find that Economy Candy had lokum (Turkish Delight).

Ever dream of a nut-flavored gummy? If so, lokum might be the perfect treat for you!

The store only had this pistachio studded variety but it was the freshest and most authentic that I've come across in the U.S. Toothsome, not too sweet and very nutty, it was quite reminiscent of the many luscious lokum I had sampled in the Egyptian Bazaar (Misir Carsisi) of Instanbul. A., who had never had good lokum before, loved it.

Tangy perfection.

We also picked up a bag of dried pineapple. Unlike the crystallized variety, these pieces of dried fruit were sweet and sour, like natural Sour Patch Kids. The chewy texture and mouthwatering tang of each bite made it absolutely impossible to stop eating.

Finally, we couldn't leave Economy Candy without picking up some chocolate. I went with Ritter Sport because I love the way Ritter milk chocolate complements the taste of nuts. Extremely creamy and sweet, the Edel-Nuss Mix and Nugat flavors are among the rarer varieties out there. Needless to say, these sizable bars were gone in no time.

Gotta love the one-and-only Ritter square packaging.

As you can tell, our trip to Economy Candy was pretty awesome. I saw many brands and flavors that I had never seen before. Definitely check it out - you might be really happy with what you find!

In other news, metallic gumballs actually exist?! (and are Kosher?!)

Economy Candy
108 Rivington Street
New York, NY 10002

Upstate: In Search of Simplicity from the Sea

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 25 Dec 2012 05:14:00 +0000

Upstate: In Search of Simplicity from the Sea

December 24, 2012

Tucked in a corner...

Rating: ◊◊◊½

Growing up in a coastal city in Northern China, my family and I often bonded over large spreads freshly steamed fish, crustaceans and mollusks. We would drink, laugh and feast all night until there was nothing left but piles of empty shells and clean bones. It was during those wonderful meals that I fell in love with the unadulterated flavors of the ocean.

Now that I’m older (and living on a different continent), my heart and stomach are constantly looking for restaurants that remind me of those delicious feasts. This is what led me to Upstate.

Tonight's specials. It's hard to beat those prices.

Perennially overshadowed by the massive garlands of Christmas lights that adorn a nearby string of Indian restaurants, Upstate is an understated, no-nonsense homage to succulent fruits de mer and hearty local beer. The restaurant features a selection of raw and cooked dishes that change as the seasons bring in different kinds of oceanic delights.

What a lovely little oyster fork!

A. and I began with half a dozen small East Coast oysters. While I unfortunately can’t remember the name of these briny fellows, they were crisp and sweet with plenty of liquor. Upstate lists its oyster selection from mildest to strongest and as someone who doesn’t care for deeper-shelled, pungent varieties, I found this little touch very helpful.

Slurp slurp slurp!

Does this look like a ceviche to you? We were (rightfully) hesistant.

In addition to the oysters, A. and I decided to try the red snapper ceviche. Although Upstate is known for its takes on ceviche, we found this iteration to be disparagingly unsuccessful. The dish featured thin slices of marinated snapper topped with finely chopped cured olives and capers – a deadly combination of salt upon salt. It seemed careless that a salt-water fish should be further dressed with high-sodium condiments. To make matters worse, the fish sorely lacked both acid and liquid, rendering its texture mealy and its flavor dull. Frankly, neither A. nor I could finish the full portion.

All my favorites in one pot...

Luckily, our main courses were much better. I ordered a bouillabaisse which featured salmon, scallops, mussels, clams and shrimp in a light white wine and onion broth. Everything was cooked perfectly. I was especially impressed with the salmon, which exuded just the right amount of fat to bind the dish together. My only critique is that I wished that the dish incorporated a bit of tomato, like in traditional bouillabaisse. The tartness of the tomatoes would have enhanced the natural sweetness of both the seafood and the onions.

They were just lying there - waiting to be devoured.

A.’s shrimp with cajun rice was also well-prepared. The dish consisted of four hefty, head-intact prawns placed neatly on top of a bed of meaty rice and beans. A. found it quite tasty but disliked the slightly bitter char on the shrimp and the soupy texture of the rice. I, on the other hand, thought the rice worked well with the creaminess of the prawn head fat.

A close-up of the cajun rice, which had a vaguely paella-esque quality.

As for drinks, Upstate has a respectable selection of local beers on tap. A. tried the Scythe and Sickle, an on-tap only, limited release amber ale from Ommegang. It was malty and full-bodied, yet not heavy. The harvest flavors of the beer worked well with the straightforward food.

Gotta love free cake!

Finally for dessert, we were presented with a complementary bite of the house’s whiskey cake – a warm, tasty and very hospitable way to end a meal.

Can you guess what season it is in this photo?

Overall, with the exception of the ceviche, I was grateful for the subtlety of Upstate’s offerings. It is very refreshing to eat great seafood that is not over-complicated by other ingredients. However, I do feel that Upstate still needs to improve before it can distinguish itself as a remarkable restaurant. While it has eschewed complexity for purity, Upstate’s dishes still lack the right balance for creating meaningful depth of flavor.

Even in those simply steamed seafood platters of my childhood, I remember tasting pinches of red pepper, thin slices of ginger and from time to time, a dash of soy sauce. In the same way, whether it’s a hint of spice or a touch of acid, Upstate should use those little touches to elevate the natural taste of its wonderful seafood to a higher level.

Upstate
95 1st Ave
New York, NY 10003

Veselka: All American with an Ukranian Flair

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 18 Nov 2012 02:24:00 +0000

Veselka: All American with an Ukranian Flair

November 17, 2012

Al fresco - the New York way...

Rating: ◊◊◊

It’s 11:47AM and you finally rouse from sleep, feeling the remnants of fatigue from the past work week and exhilaration from partying the night before. Your hair is a mess and you desperately need to brush your teeth. But before you even make it out of bed, your phone buzzes. One word flies across the screen: “Brunch?”

You feel an unexpected pang of hunger and mentally list your options. Café Orlin? Clinton Street Baking Co.? No – dainty and delightful is out of the question when you look like a raccoon that just came back from dumpster diving. Endless Drunch at the Sunburnt Cow? Double no – you can’t stomach even the thought of alcohol right now. Then, it hits you. You’re going to Veselka.
Veselka, practically an institution in the East Village, is a 24-hour diner that specializes in breakfast and Ukrainian cuisine. Although these two food groups make a weird combination, the menu at Veselka is a warm hodgepodge of comforting dishes that can get you through the coldest days and the roughest nights.

If you like old school, sit at this counter and get yourself a breakfast special.

On this particular occasion, A. and I indulged ourselves in some marvelously cooked eggs and a plate of sweet plum varenyky (handmade Ukrainian-style perogis).

A healthy breakfast to start the day right.

My order consisted of an egg-white omelette with spinach and mushrooms, fresh tomato and challah toast. I love the way Veselka makes its omelettes. Instead of folding the ingredients inside like a sideways taco, the line cooks mix them into the eggs. This preparation definitely lent my healthy but plain egg-whites some much needed veggie flavor. Personally, I like to eat mine with Grey Poupon mustard, which can be brought to the table upon request.

The challah toast is also a treat. Not too eggy with just a hint of sweetness, it makes a perfect complement to my favorite preserves.

Dickinson's is the best.

Egg scramble with a meaty underbelly.

A.’s eggs with corned beef hash were very tasty as well. The smoky beef and potatoes were cooked to gooey perfection – unlike corned beef hash I’ve had in the past. I was especially pleased to taste fresh potatoes, since it meant that the hash was assembled in-house instead of scooped ungraciously out of a can. Overall, there was a fragrant and smooth quality that I did not expect from such a stereotypically unrefined plate. If you’re visiting Veselka after a night of heavy drinking, this dish just might be the groovy pick-me-up you need.

Plump pierogi-esque dumplings with plum filling. Notice the unassuming but incredibly delicious lemon sweet-cream.

Finally, we dug into our varenyky for dessert. The dough was pleasantly toothsome and the plum filling was tangy and silky. Combined with the heavenly lemon sweet-cream that accompanied it, these fruity dumplings were positively addictive.

Dumpling innards.

Veselka is not without weaknesses, however. First up is its big menu. While this isn’t a problem in and of itself, it does lead to poor quality in its less popular food items. Whenever I’ve had off-the-beaten-path items like cabbage soup, the meatball sandwich or banana cream pie, I’ve received food that was overcooked, oversalted or stale. In my opinion, it’s better to stick with specials and popular recommendations.

The other problem is the wildly inconsistent service. While most of the wait staff is friendly, there were several occasions where I encountered careless or even downright rude servers. At the beginning of this meal, for example, we actually ordered a single blueberry pancake instead of the plum varenyky. The waitress somehow misinterpreted our order. Luckily for us, we received something delicious – this time.

Clearly a popular destination of the East Village.

Despite its faults, Veselka is a great place for a hearty, diner-style breakfast or brunch. Its no-muss no-fuss atmosphere and filling plates make it an ideal location for catching up with old friends and having a relaxing time.

The trademark mural outside of the shop.

Veselka

144 Second Avenue

New York, NY 10003

Double Ginger Cookies

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 29 Oct 2012 04:48:00 +0000

Double Ginger Cookies

October 28, 2012

Double ginger cookies fresh from the rack.

"When you get a chance, could you wipe that butter off the wall?" - A. the Kitchen Cleanliness Inspector
I always forget how hard it is to bake without a proper stand mixer. Combining butter, flour and sugar to make cookie dough seems infinitely harder when you have to do everything by hand. Luckily, with a little elbow grease, my messy efforts resulted in these delicious Double Ginger Cookies.

Moist moist moist.

With cinnamon, ground cloves, ground ginger and crystallized ginger, these brown medallions were absolutely popping with holiday warmth. The big hunks of crystallized ginger were especially fragrant and gooey - I used "Australian" cubed ginger that can be found at Whole Foods.

The recipe for this can be found at Serious Eats (one of my favorite food websites). Click here for the recipe.

I bet these would taste extra wonderful with a big glass of milk and a good book.

Beyond Sushi: Mind-blowing VEGAN sushi - Is that your brain splattered against the concrete?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 21 Oct 2012 04:06:00 +0000

Beyond Sushi: Mind-blowing VEGAN sushi - Is that your brain splattered against the concrete?

October 20, 2012

For a quick recap of the meal, check out the slide show at the bottom of the post.

The unassuming store-front with sexy vegan food inside...

Rating: ◊◊◊◊ ½

Here’s a question: can vegan food be sexy? When we talk about sexy foods, oysters, foie gras and chocolate are usually involved. But, what about vegetables and grains?

Now, most people (myself included) probably feel that the words “vegan” and “reckless abandon” are not symbiotic. It’s understandable, really. More often than not, vegan food comprises of some combination of tasteless tofu and tasteless vegetables with a side of tasteless starch. How are you supposed to feel deliciously wild and naughty when your entire meal feels like cardboard in your mouth?

Well, pack your wallet and give yourself a spank because Beyond Sushi is definitely wild. This tiny eatery offers various vegan maki rolls, customs sauces, rice paper wraps and individual nigiri-style pieces that are big on flavor, low on fat and zero on meat.

The Beyond Sushi crew.

For maximum variety, A. and I chose Combo 2 (2 maki rolls and 2 individual pieces) and the hand roll sampler. When the food came, I was awestruck by how pretty it was. The black rice had a deep, gorgeous purple hue and the vegetables were bright and fresh. It’s undeniably the kind of food you want to be eating when out with a hot date. In fact, the maki rolls looked exactly like they did on the menu – a difficult achievement if you think about the transformative powers of food styling.

Sushi wall art? Warhol, eat your heart out!

When it came to flavor, I was blown away. After my first bite, I immediately realized that it was nothing like my expectations. Rather than a substitute for real sushi, these rolls are a virile and heedlessly original celebration of everything green. The Spicy Mang was crunchy and tangy yet creamy and luscious. The Mighty Mushroom had a beautiful interplay between the velvety earthiness of the shitake teriyaki sauce and the light, tender strands of enoki mushroom tucked within. Fish or no fish, it really felt like I was eating perfectly prepared sushi.

Spicy Mang (Left) and Mighty Mushroom (Right).

I dare you to tell me this doesn't look delicious. The hand rolls were also excellent. Unlike other places, Beyond Sushi’s temaki rolls are packed with only a thin layer of rice. The fillings are stuffed to the very tip of the roll – you’re never left with a clump of flavorless mush as your last bite. On top of this, these rolls were wonderfully complex. With ingredients like shitake, avocado, daikon pickle, gobo root, pickled ginger, and alfalfa sprouts, the rolls showcased a rare understanding of how to mix flavors from various cultures to create balanced, harmonious bites. And this is coming from an Asian fusion hater!

Asian cornucopias of awesome ingredients.

The only thing that I didn't really enjoy was the nigiri-style individual pieces. Because the components were so sparse (i.e. tofu, rice and sauce), these pieces were underwhelming when compared to the bold, striking maki rolls.

As a last recommendation, the shop’s homemade drinks are a wonderful side for your meal. We washed down our rolls with a silky orange blackberry coconut water. The orange pulp tickled my tongue as the coconut aftertaste glided in and out of my taste periphery.

A lovely shade of fuchsia.

Beyond Sushi is proof that you can be vegan and sexy at the same time. Although the food is quite healthy, the textures and flavors delight the senses in a stimulatingly unique way. This airy little eatery is the perfect pit-stop prelude to a romp in the sun or a night on the town.

The tiny shop.

Slide Show (Click the “i” for More Info on the Pictures):

Beyond Sushi
229 East 14th Street
New York, NY 10003

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop: Novel Novelty

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 23 Sep 2012 23:53:00 +0000

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop: Novel Novelty

September 23, 2012

So many colors!

Rating: ◊◊◊

Ok, I admit, whenever I’m genuinely interested in something, I totally buy into the hype. Handmade in France and lovingly kissed by a hundred virgin nuns? So delicious it will permanently disfigure my taste buds? Great, you’ve sold me. I’ll take five!

Knowing this about me, it should be absolutely no surprise that I was excited to sample some of the fanciful concoctions at Big Gay Ice Cream Shop (A. was dragged along for quality assurance and calorie sharing purposes).

When we arrived, there was an intimidating line about 12 people deep streaming out of Big Gay’s small establishment. Luckily, a friendly employee stood in the doorway and handed menus out to customers while they waited, expediting the traffic significantly. It only took about 10 minutes before we were ushered into the shop and allowed to order.

A mad dash to serve customers! No wonder only a few people could be let in at a time... (Also, notice the Salty Pimp cupcakes!)

Now, going to Big Gay Ice Cream for the first time and not getting the Salty Pimp is a little bit like visiting Paris without going to the Eiffel Tower. So, despite some extremely tempting alternatives (the Mermaid – vanilla soft serve, lime curd, graham crackers, whipped cream), A. and I took the classic route and got our hands on a big, fat pimp-licious cone.

An inviting cone with a nifty drip protector.

Comprised of vanilla soft serve, dulce de leche, sea salt and chocolate coating, the delectable Salty Pimp is no doubt owners Douglas Quint and Bryan Petroff’s most popular creation. The combination of these dreamy ingredients immediately reminded me of an elevated Mr. Softee cone. The salt sharpened the mellow, milky flavor of the other ingredients and the hardened chocolate dip allowed for some lovely textural contrast. On the whole, it showcased some serious creative energy, but still drew on the nostalgic novelty we love about classic vanilla soft serve ice cream. I can definitely see why people rave about this cone and this tasty place.

Ultimately, is Big Gay Ice Cream Shop worth the hype? In my opinion, it depends. In the novelty department, Big Gay’s got it all. Sassy menu items like the Gobbler (apple butter, bourbon butterscotch & pie pieces) and the Mexican Aflo-gay-to (spicy hot chocolate, chocolate shavings & cayenne) are practically leaping off of the chalkboard into eager mouths. This just goes to show: not only do Quint and Petroff deliver delicious, innovative ice cream, they do with it with such exuberance and glitz that it is impossible not to enjoy yourself when eating one of their desserts.

Ice cream and unicorns? This is a real-life East Village fairytale that you can relive everyday.

On the other hand, the quality of the ingredients at Big Gay Ice Cream is only so-so. The vanilla soft serve is not even close to the thick, luscious ice cream you would expect when paying $5 for a cone. Also, the Salty Pimp's chocolate dip was waxy and slightly artificial-tasting. My 3 star rating was directly influenced by this.

This sign definitely improved my state of happiness.

In the end, I’m really glad I followed the hype and tried out Big Gay Ice Cream Shop. Whether you’re a fan of kooky desserts or just on the lookout for a tasty cone, this little place has the kinds of treats that can add a bit of gaiety to any day.

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop
125 East 7th Street
New York, NY 10009

Robataya NY: Why Yes, Do Come at Me with That Paddle!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 12 Sep 2012 23:33:00 +0000

Robataya NY: Why Yes, Do Come at Me with That Paddle!

September 12, 2012

For a quick recap of the meal, check out the slide show at the bottom of the post.

Lighting the way to robatayaki...

Rating: ◊◊◊ ½

Once in awhile, A. and I get the itch to blow all our money on fancy-schmancy Japanese food. We like to think that it transports us back to a better time – a time when we were studying abroad without adult responsibilities haunting our young, impressionable minds.

Our target this time was Robataya NY, another colony of Mr. Bon Yagi’s delicious empire. Like many of its sister restaurants (Sakagura, Cha-an, Decibel, etc.), Robataya serves small plates made from high-quality, traditional ingredients. The name “Robataya” is actually derived from the restaurant’s focus on one particular type of traditional cuisine: robatayaki.

Literally translated to “fire-side cooking,” robatayaki involves grilling fresh ingredients such as seafood, vegetables and meat over a hot charcoal fire with liberal amounts of salt.The idea is to let the natural flavor of each ingredient shine in its own right. Also, they serve your grilled dishes to you on giant paddles. Awesome, right?

A plethora of ingredients. Notice the giant paddle resting next to the chef...

The menu at Robataya can be a little overwhelming. Not only is it quite extensive, many of the dishes have unusual ingredients even for traditional Japanese places. Dry-pressed fish fillets with a side of elephant garlic, anyone? We ended up picking about 8 dishes – a combination of everything that sounded interesting.

Some Highlights and Lowlights:

Ei-Hire - Re-grilled Dried Skate Fin with Kewpie Mayo

Look at that gorgeous dollop of Japanese mayo.

On its own, the skate was very sweet with a flaky, jerky-like texture and just a hint of fishiness. The cartilage on the wings also added a nice textural crunch to the soft, yielding flesh. When combined with Kewpie mayo, the skate becomes much more full-bodied and loses its briny taste. It’s definitely a great bar snack to wash down with a few Sapporos.

Uni Tororo - Sea Urchin with Grated Nagaimo (Japanese Mountain Yam)

Horrifically slimy.

I recently developed a fondness for uni, and seeing as A. and I are both pretty tolerant of weird textures, I ordered the Uni Tororo. However, it was impossible to anticipate the strange and slimy dish that came to us. The dish was obviously well-prepared but alas, it also happened to have the mouth feel of the congealed spit of a thousand camels. When I spooned it up, long strands of nagaimo would stretch all over the place. As for the taste, the uni was diluted by the blandness of the nagaimo and overpowered by abundant amounts of scallion.

Sweet Fish Robatayaki

So small, so sad and so NOT sweet.

At small-plate focused restaurants, no matter how small the portion, I usually don't feel ripped off. That was not the case with the sweet fish. For $16, the chef presented us with a robatayaki'ed fish that was maybe 2 inches by 5 inches. Even a starving wild bear fresh out of hibernation probably would have let this fella go. In terms of flavor, the flesh of the fish had a very fine texture but the “sweet” taste was overpowered by the strong bloodline that lined the inside of its stomach. It was especially disappointing because it looks like a slightly larger version of one of my favorite small fishes: shishamo (willow-leaf smelt, usually with a lot of roe).

Kamameshi of Assorted Mushrooms - Slow Steamed Rice with Broth and Mushrooms

Luscious, sticky and definitely umami.

For me, this kamameshi was the highlight of the meal. Made only with rice, mushrooms and vegetarian broth, it shocked me that so many flavors could be coaxed out of so few ingredients. The rice, glistening with broth, was incredibly luscious. Combined with the slippery texture of the mushrooms, the kamameshi took on a surprisingly light and ethereal quality. I would absolutely order this again.

Robataya NY is definitely a new and interesting play off of the "expensive Japanese restaurant" stereotype. That said, if you're not a fan of subtly seasoned food or small portions, this restaurant may not be for you. Many dishes amount to only a few bites and are plainly seasoned with just salt.

Robataya's dishes are not cheap either. In fact, when A. and I received our check, we were a little blind-sighted by how expensive it was. We had ordered so many small plates that we lost track of how much everything cost. It wasn't a big deal, but it did put a slight damper on our overall experience. Next time, we will definitely plan our meal more carefully before the waiter takes our order.

Waitresses in kimono.

Other than these small critiques, Robataya is a wonderful balance of theatricality and elegance - perfect for entertaining (impressing) close friends, family, or a date. The serene ambiance, attentive service and lush greenery really allowed me to relax and taste the natural flavors of my meal. Plus, it was thrilling to watch the chefs, each kneeling in front of a small grill, create dish after dish and fly them out to patrons at the bar via their paddles.

Slide Show (Click the "i" for More Info on the Pictures):

Robataya NY
231 East 9th Street
New York, NY 10003

Cheeky Sandwiches: Gnawin’ on Nawlins

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 09 Sep 2012 17:39:00 +0000

Cheeky Sandwiches: Gnawin’ on Nawlins

September 9, 2012

Cheeky Sandwiches from the outside – Keep an eye out or you might miss it!

Rating: ◊◊◊◊

To be honest, I don’t have much experience with Southern food. The world of fried green tomatoes, white sausage gravy and peach cobbler always seemed like a faraway fantasy. Perhaps this is what inspired me to “cross the Mason-Dixon” and hit up Cheeky Sandwiches.

Many of the full-bodied delights on the menu are Southern/New Orleans centric: biscuits, muffulettas and po boys with a healthy dose of seasoning and an abundant amount of fried components. As if that wasn’t enough to get your taste buds excited, Cheeky also keeps it old-school by carrying Zapp’s chips (from New Orleans) and Fitz’s sodas (from St. Louis).

Determined to try a little of everything, A. and I shared a chicken biscuit sandwich, a veggie muffuletta and a bag of Zapp’s “Spicy Cajun Crawtators” potato chips.

Two words: Golden. Brown.

The chicken biscuit sandwich features a hearty slab of juicy fried chicken cradled by a blanket of white gravy studded with bits of sausage. The combination is both potently meaty and deadly addictive. The biscuit crumbles with each bite into a blissful, buttery oblivion.

But, you may wonder, “Is it too rich?”

It isn’t. A bright, tangy red cabbage slaw comes in at the critical moment and saves the entire sandwich from greasey hell. At just $6.50, this compact flavor-bomb may, in fact, be the perfect cure for a night of heavy drinking.

How did they inject so much flavor into a sandwich?

Although I may have never had an authentic muffuletta, even I knew that my veggie muffuletta didn’t exactly qualify as one. Doesn’t matter. This sandwich was great, irrespective of its name or origin. Stuffed between two crusty slices of olive bread, the chopped pickles (cauliflower, carrots and more olives, I believe) sang sweet harmony against fresh tomatoes and melted Swiss. It was unlike any vegetarian sandwich I've had before. There was no adding of “meatier” ingredients like eggplant, roasted peppers or avocado. There was no toasted multigrain bread. It was just simple, homey and most importantly, delicious. With a price of $7.25, the veggie muffletta, too, was a steal.

These chips could have used a bit more kick.

Zapp's "Spicy Cajun Crawtators" potato chips were a crunchy and rather salty end to our meal. I was slightly disappointed with the Cajun flavor, since it mostly tasted like BBQ chips with a slight Old Bay after taste. However, with about 10 other flavors available, I'm going to stay optimistic about Zapp's.

It’s no dispute that Cheeky has great food. But for me, what really earned this small shop 4 stars out of a possible 5 was the combination of food, service and ambiance.

Sandwich love under a hot, tin roof.

The interior of Cheeky Sandwiches boasts no pretensions. It’s a fun and comforting place filled with murals and old knickknacks. While sitting at the counter and watching the cook prepare orders, it was very easy to enjoy our food.

I love the yellow.

A quaint, little eating counter.

On top of this, the service was great. When making the veggie muffuleta, the guy behind the counter noticed that the first sandwich was a little on the small side. He then made us another one to compensate. And, He even came up and offered to take our second veggie sandwich to the back and keep it warm (so that the Swiss cheese stays melted) while we ate our first one.

Behind-the-counter-Guy taking orders and being awesome.

All in all, Cheeky Sandwiches was an excellent foray into Southern eating and an even more excellent way to experience true Southern hospitality.

Cheeky Sandwiches
35 Orchard Street
New York, NY 10002