The French House: The best of France to your door

On The Way South

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:09:48 GMT

On our way South recently, we stopped at Troyes south of Paris. In spite of our regular extensive travel through France we had previously ignored it. What an oversight! It's certainly a town that we shall visit again. The centre is a historic gem, a complete town of colombage, or timber framed buildings, from the 16th and 17th centuries, rebuilt after the fire of 1524. Stunningly intact, it gives a glimpse into the lives of the mercantile classes, as Troyes was a large trading centre at this time.

Troyes also has several churches dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, the most important being the cathedral, which has a wonderful stained glass window. During the 13th century the Knights Templars were based here, and local rumour has it that buried treasure from the crusades is hidden here; the Ark of the Covenant perhaps? In an alleyway by the side of the cathedral is the Museum of Modern Art which contains works by Picasso, Braque, and Modigliani, to name just a few of the hundreds of works.

La Maison de Rhodes, named after the Knights Templars whose home it was in the 13th and 14th centuries, is an hotel whose ambiance allows a full enjoyment of this historic town. It's a trifle on the expensive side for France, but the building has been sensitively and tastefully restored and our room exuded an understated elegance. The restaurant we thought too expensive and so avoided; the usual Continental breakfast was also expensive, but altogether it was a very pleasant experience.

We highly recommend a visit to Troyes.

La Maison de Rhodes

18 rue Linard Gonthier

10000 Troyes

Tel.: ++33/(0)3 25 43 11 11

www.maisonderhodes.com

Salamanca

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 12:58:54 GMT

On our way west we stopped here, drawn by the oldest university in Spain. This rash of learning that swept through Europe in the 13th and 14th centuries left behind more than weighty volumes. Architecture that truly inspires, streets hot with heretical thoughts. All this still exists today in Salamanca, particularly at night, when the Spanish come out to play, and the lights enliven the architecture that needs no enlivening, and the warmth encourages this cauldron of activity. Truly a beautiful city that you to should visit or to which you could send your student offspring on an Erasmus year.

Saturday seems to be wedding day at the stunning cathedral, and couples literally line up for their turn. We found ourselves in the midst of all this colour, elegantly dressed wedding parties, confetti cannons going off, brides in Ferraris.

Onwards to have some tapas at a very good modern wine bar, Vinodiario where we were introduced to a prosciutto-style ham made from goat, called cecina, which comes from nearby Leon and is astonishingly good. There was also a dish of salt cod with a conserve of peppers and olives, an Iberian hot dog, a nice traditional sausage, with a red fruit ketchup and excellent wine by the glass.

We stayed at the Melia las Claras Hotel, opposite our wine bar, but would probably have preferred the NH Hotel by the cathedral.

Vinodiario

Plaza Basilios no.1

Tel.: ++34/923 614 0438

Beyond The Ramblas

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Sun, 08 Feb 2009 17:35:08 GMT

Being a tourist in cities can be difficult as it is easy to be overwhelmed by their noise and speed. Barcelona is no exception, but as with most cities there are spaces and areas that are quieter. Often sounds are a better reflection of the true life of different parts of a city. The following three areas are such places; they are "Beyond the Ramblas".

The Born is an area bounded by Via Laietana and the park containing the zoo, and this was was where I first became aware of rhythms, created I thought at first on bells. The clear metallic sound actually came from gas bottles being beaten, informing clients up above of the vendors. Mostly they seem to be Indians, and each has a different rhythm, some just bang the bottles, whilst others create intricate rhythms, reminiscent of the tabla. These narrow streets are home to young creatives, older Catalans, and immigrants, giving a wonderful colour and vibrancy to the shops and restaurants of this area. Some of my favourite shops are: Bubo the best cake shop in Barcelona? 8 Carrer des Les Caputxes. Casa Gispert is an old-fashioned grocery store in 23 Carrer Dels Sombrerers. Arlequi Mascares, a mask shop, 5 Carrer De La Princesa. Yahoo Gallery bags made fom the advertising banners of Barcelona, 8 Carrer dels Cotoners.

Discordant whistles, produced from a plastic pan pipe, probably bought from a penny store, tells the butchers and others that the knife sharpening service has arrived. On the back of the moped, powered by the 50cc engine, is the round carburundum stone; next to this is a large wooden box containing all the other accoutrements of the trade. This is Gracia, which lies above the Born, and above the Diagonal, an area of squares, some set around churches, recalling old villages with tree lined steets. There are too many small fashion shops to mention, but try chilling out in a bar on Placa de la Virreina, or Placa de Sol, and watch the world go by, before heading to lunch at La Llesca, 6 Carrer de Terol, a traditional barbecue restaurant. Lunch is €7.50, but don't drink the house wine, move up a grade to a whole €6 or so.

All over Barcelona at 17.30 there is a cacophony, as children leave their schools, to play in the park, on the squares, and eat donuts. In St Gervasi this is particularly noticeable, as it is home to families some, mostly rich, some poor, but all noisy. This noise in some way sums up Barcelona for me; it's in the open , it's gregarious, it's youthful and capricious. Some of my favourite shops in St Gervasi are (take subway 7 to El Putxet) Casa Pepe, 375 Balmes, a deli come wine bar, and a local institution. Acanto, a flower shop, 54 Carrer de St Gervasi de Cassoles. Almost next door at number 60 is Dona Petra, an artisan weaver and producer. Wonderful products! At 103 on the same street is restaurant Bonanova, authentic Catalan cuisine, served in lovely surroundings. Finally for chocolates and cake try Canal, 566 Carrer de Muntaner. After the cake you could walk to Sarria, and take in some of the most expensive real estate in Barcelona.

The Corbières

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Sun, 08 Feb 2009 17:41:13 GMT

Just inland from the Mediterranean coast of Narbonne, lies the rugged wind-swept Corbières, which is worth a little detour. We started our tour with Frontfroide, a magnificent abbey founded in 1093 and a highpoint of cistercian architecture; it is from here that the Cathars were persecuted. After admiring this austere abbey we took the road to Lagrasse which took us through the heart of the Corbières. This rugged countryside used to produce country wines of little note, but the wines from this region have improved by leaps and bounds over the past decade, so after visiting the abbey, what better way to sup in the flavour of the countryside than to try a couple of tastings. Just off the road between Frontfroide and Lagrasse is Château Beauregard, where the eighth generation of vignerons, Nicolas Mirouze, is blending Syrah and Grenache to produce a wine of excellent price/quality relationship, for only 6 Euros.

Lagrasse is a wonderful little village perched on the river valley overlooking its abbey. Inside the village there is another church which has a couple of wonderful medieval stained glass windows and copious amounts of paintings and sculptures. The 15th century square with its covered market place is one of the most authentic we have seen; unrestored it has retained its patina of transactions from the past, whilst playing host to potters, a metal workshop and other artisans in the present. The village has a slightly alternative feel to it, having attracted many young arty types. One gets the sense of a vibrant community. Unfortuantly the abbey was closed when we visited as it is only open at weekends off- season.

French Style Foraging

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 12:56:09 GMT

Wherever there is a car (usually rather battered) stationary at the side of the road, it's usually there for one of two reasons. If there is no one in sight then you can be sure that somewhere there is a Frenchman or woman foraging. Where the car is parked will vary with the time of year. It will be near a forest in the autumn, where the owner is quietly poking the undergrowth looking for mushrooms. We were given a tip for hunting mushrooms by an expert some time ago, and that is one must walk in circles as one hunts; the refraction of the light from different angles reveals the hidden mushrooms.

Spring will find the car near a ditch or hedge, the owner occupied with finding snails, wild garlic, and wild asparagus; it seems though that elderflowers go untouched, which is a surprise as they make wonderful fritters as well as cordial, something we're passing onto our French neighbours.

We have continued to be amazed at the ability of French country folk to find something consumable in the most unlikely locations.

Conques

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 17:30:54 GMT

The Abbey St. Foy, so named because the relics of St. Foy came to rest there, dominates the village. Though restored in the 19th century it still has a wealth of Romanesque features. Next to the abbey is now a museum, where the shrine of St Foy is now kept, it is the only medieval shrine left on the route to Santiago. Also within the museum are gold relics from Charlemagne, and a 9th Century chest from King Pepin.

The village itself is wonderfully contained in a shell (conch) like position in the hillside overlooking the river Doude. The house and streets have been well restored, and with no modern additions, one can sense what it must have been like hundreds of years ago. It is one of the jewels of South West France for sure, and as such receives a lot of visitors, so probably best seen off season.

Making eau de vie at Chateaux Raynaudes

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:06:14 GMT

In 2004 Orlando Murrin, then editor of BBC Good Food, and his partner left London to set up a highly successful ‘boutique b&b’ in SW France. Orlando is also the author of cook book : A Table in the Tarn". Here he describes why this is the last year he will be making cherry eau de vie.

I can clearly remember the evening eight years ago when we first set eyes on the Manoir de Raynaudes. It was dusk and it was drizzling. We drove around a lake and up a rough avenue towards a once-elegant house with a pointy slate roof. In front of it lay a few neglected rows of spindly looking trees. It was December and the branches were bare, but something told me this had once been a cherry orchard.

Two months later the house was ours, and one of the first things I did was to knock on the door of the local farmer and beg for some manure. That winter, and every winter since, I have found a huge pile waiting for me at the edge of the orchard, which I have lovingly distributed round the base of the trees. Thus nourished, the trees have grown back lush and thick.

Anyone who has grown tree fruits knows the trees have a mind of their own. However carefully you prune them, they seem to have one year on, a year or two off. During our tenure here, our trees have fruited copiously in 2004, then again in 2006. That year the trees were so dripping with cherries that I asked the farmer what to do with them. Go see Cazottes, he said – a family distillery in Villeneuve-sur-Vère. a few villages away. And so we made our first cherry eau de vie.

Making eau de vie – specially from cherries - is an exhausting process, and it was with equal delight and horror that I saw signs in early spring that this year it was once again going to be raining cherries. The process is this. First of all, spread sheets on the grass below the cherry tree. Set up a ladder and snip or tug off as many cherries as you can reach, letting them drop onto the sheets. Climb down, reposition ladder and repeat. The best cherries always seem to be just out of reach, so you can use telescopic shears. Slow work - it takes a couple of hours to pick a whole tree, then round up all the cherries. Fortunately our trees fruit in sequence, so the work is staggered over a month.

Once you have a bucket of cherries, they need to be crushed into a large lidded black barrel kept for the purpose. Even this is not as easy as it sounds, because every cherry needs to have its tail pulled off first. (It seems the tails make the eau de vie bitter, though thankfully you don’t have to remove the stones). We have very obliging guests at the Manoir and they do their best to help. In 2006, the Welch family from the Lake District happened to be staying, and together they dewhiskered and squished virtually the whole crop. This year’s champions were Nick and Lisa. It is messy, slow work and if the sun is out, best done in a bikini.

The barrel takes a momentous 100 kilos of cherries. When full to the brim, you wait a few days for the fizzing to stop and clap on the lid. In September, we somehow hoik the barrel into the boot of the car and head for the distillery.

It is no myth that the French love paperwork. When I hand over the barrel I have to present an attestation from our mayor to confirm that we have cherry trees, the fruits of which we wish to have distilled. Last week I returned to pick up the eau de vie, which involved filling out three forms and making out cheques to both the distiller and the French government (for tax). And oh yes, Cazottes gave me a certificate bearing my car registration number, in case I was stopped on the way home for bootlegging.

Is it all worth it? What do you think? 18 litres of our very own, pure, shimmering 40% eau de vie de cerises, made from thousands of cherries ripened in the clean, bright Tarn sunshine and massaged by our (and our guests’) hands. Sipped icy cold after dinner, it is the month of May in a glass.

Before you ask, we cannot sell you a bottle because we don’t have the right sort of licence. Even more sadly, we will not be making cherry eau de vie again, because we have just signed a compromis de vente, meaning the Manoir de Raynaudes has been sold to new owners. Then again, if you happen to know of a property for sale with an orchard of those luscious little mirabelle plums…

Orlando Murrin

Le Manoir de Raynaudes

orlando@raynaudes.com

+33 563 36 91 90

Vézelay

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Thu, 21 Apr 2011 15:17:24 GMT

Following the river Cure towards Vézelay feels like being in the French version of the Cotswolds. The gentle countryside is interspersed with small, well maintained villages and lovely manor houses, except of course here there are the vines, which give us the delicious Chardonnay of this region.

Vézelay rises majestically, the village clustering around the monastery, where the remains of Mary Magdalene reputedly lie, the original reason for its fame. The monastery is one of the great buildings of the middle ages, sublime in its simplicity, superb in its execution, a true work of art. It was from here that the third crusade started, and it is one of the starting points for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, the St Jacques shell on the façade reminding us of this.

Tarte Tatin de Courgettes au Chèvre

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Mon, 05 Sep 2011 08:37:47 GMT

This is a savoury version of the classic Tarte Tatin, so it's cooked upside down. Using ready-made pastry it's quick to do and is bound to go down well on a summer buffet or picnic.

1 round of puff pastry around 250g ready-made, ideally with butter not hydrogenated fats, 5 courgettes, 400g fresh soft goat's cheese, such as Petit Billy, 2 shallots, 1 clove garlic, 9 tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. Herbes de Provence, salt, pepper.

Peel and finely chop the shallots. Peel and crush garlic. Wash the courgettes and with a peeler peel of the skin only every few centimetres (roughly 3 strips of skin removed and 3 left on). Cut them into cubes. In a pan heat the oil over medium heat and saute the courgettes with the garlic for about 8 minutes. Scatter the Herbes de Provence over them and set aside.

In a bowl mix the cheese, shallots, cumin and 2 tbsp. of the olive oil with salt and pepper to a smooth paste. Oil a mould suitable for Tarte Tatin (mustn't leak) with the rest of the oil, put the courgettes on the bottom of the tin and spread the cheese mixture evenly over them. Cover with the pastry, pushing it down the sides with your fingers. Bake for roughly 20 minutes at 210ºC. Unmould upside down straight out of the oven and serve immediately.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

Brussels Sprouts in Beer

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 17:30:24 GMT

These brussels are good with roast pork or pork chops.

Wash and prepare 600g of brussels sprouts by cutting a cross into their base. Melt 30g of butter in a sauté pan and add two teaspoons of sugar and cook for 2 minutes. Add a sliced onion and cook for a further 3 minutes. Add the sprouts and cook for a short while before adding 20cl of beer, season with salt and pepper; cover the pan, turn down the heat and cook for 15 minutes.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

Pain d'Epices à l'Orange

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 17:27:13 GMT

We have some wonderful vintage cake tins from the North of France in our shop for Christmas. They are in the shape of a gingerbread house and this recipe would work well, although it is meant for a loaf tin. This recipe makes a lovely moist cake which improves after a few days and is served sliced.

First make your own gingerbread spice from: 25g ground cinnamon, 5g ground ginger, 7g cardamom pods and 7 g cloves (the latter ground together in a spice mill or coffee grinder). Sift and keep in an airtight container. The mix is more than you need for this recipe.

For the gingerbread you will need: 200g orange marmalade, 90g milk, 1 level tsp. salt, 2-3 whole star anise, 2 tbsp. ground cinnamon, 80g soft butter, 1 good tbsp. of the spice mix, 175g flour, 25g cornflour, 2 eggs, 1 sachet of baking powder (2 tsp.), 275g acacia honey. 1 untreated orange.

Boil the milk with the star anise and let it infuse for 10 mins. and cool. Warm the honey, whizz the orange marmalade in a food processor and reserve a tablepoon of it for decorating the cake later. Cream the butter, add the flour, cornflour, eggs, cinnamon and the spice mix. Add the honey and marmalade and mix well. Reserve a tablespoonful of the cake mix for later. Pour the mix into a loaf tin and bake for 1 hour at 170C. Meanwhile cut the orange into 5mm slices and cook for 3 mins. in boiling water, drain and reserve. After testing with a skewer take out the cake and spread the reserved dough on top and arrange the orange slices on it. Bake for a further 5 mins., then glaze with warm orange marmalade.

Lamb Shanks with Orange and Saffron

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Wed, 02 May 2012 15:08:52 GMT

With the unexpected cold snap we'll all want to go back to warming and sustaining winter food. This zesty dish does the trick without being dull.

4 lamb shanks, 2 large onions, 4 untreated oranges, preferably organic, 1 lemon, 1 bunch coriander, 60g slithered almonds, 2 cloves garlic, 1 tsp. ground cinnamon, 1 tsp. ground cumin, a pinch of saffron threads, 60g golden raisins, 1 tbsp. caster sugar, 2 tbsp. olive oil, salt and pepper.

Mix the juice of the lemon with a tablespoon of sea salt and rub it all over the lamb shanks. Set aside for 15 minutes, then rinse off the mix and pat dry. Rinse and dry one of the oranges and finely zest the skin. Peel the onions and grate them coarsely. Mix the zest, onion, cinnamon, cumin, sugar and the oil and cover the shanks with this mixture all around. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile lightly toast the almonds in a dry frying pan. Set aside.

Brown the lamb shanks gently for 12-15 minutes in a casserole dish or a tagine with the flattened, unpeeled garlic (crush lightly with the back of a knife). Pour over the juice of the 4 oranges and add half the coriander tied together with cooking string as a bouquet. Cover and simmer for 1h30 turning the meat regularly. Remove the garlic and coriander and add the saffron and the dry raisins to the cooking liquid and cook for a further 30 minutes.

Serve hot with the toasted almonds and remaining chopped coriander scattered over the top.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

Parmentier au Confit de Canard

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Wed, 02 May 2012 15:10:22 GMT

The French parmentier is the closest thing they do to a cottage pie. This one is a luxury version made with Confit de Canard, which is now readily available in the UK.

4 confit duck legs, 650g starchy potatoes, 500g ready to eat chestnuts (in a jar or sachet), 200ml milk, 50g butter, 60g hazelnuts, 2 onions, 4 shallots, 2 cloves garlic, a sprig of thyme, salt and pepper.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into pieces; heat a pan of salted water and cook the potatoes with the peeled garlic cloves, the sprig of thyme and one chopped onion. When the potatoes are tender, add the chestnuts and continue to cook for 10-12 minutes. Drain and take out the thyme, and mash the rest. Add the butter and milk to obtain a smoother, but still firm texture. Season with salt and pepper as needed.

Toast the hazelnuts in a hot oven for 5 minutes, allow to cool and chop coarsely. Take off any fat of the duck leg and remove the skin. Shred the meat with a fork. Chop the shallots and remaining onion, sauté until transparent on a low flame, adding a bit of the duck fat. Add the duck meat and fry stirring all the time until the meat is browned and crispy in parts. Remove from heat and add the hazelnuts.

Spread half the mash into the bottom of a gratin dish, followed by the meat and top with the rest of the mash. Put into a hot oven for a few minutes to heat it through. Serve with a mixed salad.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

Pancakes aux Petits Pois

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Thu, 10 May 2012 15:33:35 GMT

Here's a delightful recipe to try while fresh peas are in season. These pancakes are the perfect Sunday brunch dish. The batter can be prepared a few hours in advance.

80 g freshly shelled peas (from around 40g podded peas), 200g flour, 2 eggs, 150ml milk, freshly ground black pepper, 30g butter, 1 tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. lemon juice, Sea salt.

To serve: 4 slices of smoked salmon, whipping cream (cold), a couple of sprigs of mint

Pod the peas and select some of the most tender and prettiest pods. Clean them well, remove the stringy parts and cut them into fine julienne strips. Pour over the lemon juice and olive oil, salt and pepper. Reserve.

Cook the peas in salted boiling water for 2 minutes, drain and place in a blender with 3 tablespoons of water. Blend to a smooth purée.

Combine the flour and the eggs, then add the milk and whisk to obtain a lump-free consistency. Add the pea purée and mix in well. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Heat a nob of butter in a small pan and pour in a ladle of the batter. Cook the pancake for 3 minutes on each side, keeping them warm while using up the batter.

Whip the cream with a pinch of salt and add the chopped mint.

Serve each pancake with a slice of salmon, a dollop of the cream and the pod salad on top.

Enjoy with a glass of chilled white wine!

Little Strawberry-Rhubarb and Almond Gratins

info@thefrenchhouse.net — Thu, 10 May 2012 15:34:07 GMT

Here's a lovely pud for Sunday lunch:

For 8 small ramekins dishes. Preparation 20mn, cooking time: 25mn

3 eggs, 150ml whipping cream, 60g ground almonds, 30g flour, 120g sugar, 150g strawberries, 150g rhubarb.

Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC. Wash rhubarb and cut into cubes (not too tiny as you don't want puree), place in saucepan with a tiny bit of water to prevent sticking, cover and cook for about 5mn; drain. Briefly wash strawberries and cut into small pieces. Break the eggs into a bowl and add the cream. Whisk adding the flour, sugar and almond powder. Pour mixture into ramekins filling them barely over half full and divide the fruit pieces on top. Bake for 20-25mn; they will rise quite a bit. The gratins can be enjoyed warm or cold.