The Garments Technology

What is Garments Technology?

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Selection of Fabrics:- Select appropriate fabric for different styles and types of garments according to latest trends and estimate

DesigningTechniques: - Design, grounding of specification sheets, draft, prepare patterns and grade (into different size, for various types of garments (manually as

well as with the use of computers)

Layout Planning: Marker making, fabric lay planning, spreading, cutting tools and

techniques and estimation of fabric consumption.

Fabrication:- Fabricate various machinery of garments made to calculate and

mass production for a variety of types of women and men's wear,

kids wear and special types.

Management skills:- Plan schedule, control, supervise and manage the production of different types of garments on the shop floor.

Automation:- Ability to operate and maintain garment industrialized machines and tools.

Quality Management:- Undertake quality control and inspection of various types of-fabrics

and garments as per customers specifications.

Control Measures :- Undertake finishing, packaging and presentation of garments.

Entrepreneurship Training :- Setting-up an entrepreneurial unit.

Personality Development:- Knowledge of interpersonal relations and skills in communication.

Understanding of Market:- Knowledge of marketing and retail management.

Computerization:- Use of computers in the field of Garment Technology.

Costing:- thoughtful of estimation, costing and price of garments with

cost saving and cost control techniques.

Type of Washing of various fabric items./Blanket wash/Mock up.

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A. Types of washing: There are various type of washing we do as per Buyer requirement in washing plant.

Here given some---

# Normal wash

# Enzyme wash#

# Stone with enzyme

# Sand blast

# Bleach wash

stone washing mashine

B. Blanket wash/ mock- up. Wash approval/ effect/ grinding approval---

At first cut swatch (6’’ x 6’’ ) size 3 pcs from middle of each roll (same shade) to make blanket. Blanket is 6’’ x 6’’=36 pcs (s/b sewing each other) 1 blanket in same color. Blanket wash as per washing requirement which provide by buyer in PDM. To see the shade variation need to make the blanket.

To see the wash effect & to approve make the mock-up in size. Mock –up wash as per washing requirement & after washed send to buyer for approval before start the bulk in sample stage. Mock –up must be in actual fabric/ Item & correct washing requirement. After washed mock-up / sample washing plant provide the washing recipe to sales. Recipe will be hang by laminating with the keeping sample or mock- up. That recipe s/b record for bulk stage.

What is Metal Detection & Why Metal Detection are Requires.

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A. What is metal detection & why metal detection is require ?

Metal detection is detect/find out any metallic things from gmt’s by machine. There are two kind’s of metal detection conveyor &hand held.

Metal detection is most important safety issue. To ensure no have any kinds of metallic things like broken ndl, pin etc in gmt’s, to ensure gmts are nickel free, ferrous free need the metal detection.

If have any kinds of metal in gmts it can effect ton body.

B. Keeping record & handling metal detected gmts: Keep the all record in nreport format (100% gmts metal detection report, Daily summary report, Machine calibration test report) &log book maintaining for metal. Metal free gmts goes to pack & non free gmts (containing metal) if found metal in gmts try to repair & after repair it will be re inspect for ensuring. Non repairable gmts goes to stock (non shippable)with report.

C. Kinds products safety /japan orders obligation/ other request if any: All kinds & Japan order must be 100% metal check & metal free.

All accessories/ components must check by metal detecting machine before attaching with gmts. Down, padding gmts check in small parts by metal detecting machine before attaching whole gmts. If have any buyer requirements all the orders (all time) try do the 100% metal detection.

D. Torque & tension testing/ calibration checking---

Calibrate the conveyor machine by calibration standard card 1.00mm in 3 steps.

First check step: Calibration card should top of the calibration card box. Need to check in 3 point of machine like 2 sides & center.

Second check step-: Calibration card should side of the calibration card box. Need to check in 3 point of machine like 2 sides & center.

Third check step: Calibration card should down of the calibration card box. Need to check in 3 point of machine like 2 side & center.

Also need to check the function of machine indicators/ speed/ levels.( Follow the buyer or factory standard).

E. Certification of metal detection:-Factory & accessories supplier ensure the 100% metal detection as required & give the report/ certificate weather goods are metal free.

What is the pre-shipment inspection ? .How it comply in to the packed gmts?. Who will conduct pre-shipments inspection and what is the necessity of it ?

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A. Pre shipment inspection is factory internal audit on complete gmt’s. It’s doing before submit to final inspection to final auditor. Pre- shipment auditor only submit the passed good’s with passed report. If pre shipment auditor’s audit is fail, factory conduct the reinsertion. After passed in pre-shipment submit for final inspection.

Pre- shipment inspection reduce the fail/ rejection qty. in final stage. If pre-shipment auditor failed the P.O. factory re check the gmt’s. So that reduce the rejection on that p.o. before submit to final audit.

Factory internal inspection conducts the pre-shipment inspection . Factory conducts the pre shipment inspection in AQL 1.5.

Overall Functions And Activities Of Lab.

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. Various lab tests based on fabric & accessories: There are various lab test we do as per buyer requirement. Here given some bellow-----

Coated/ Non coated fabrics------

# Composition test- Identify the content like percent of nylon/ polyester/ cotton etc.

# Colorfastness—To washing, T water. To dry heat dye sublimation, To storage, To crocking.

# Appearance after wash

# Seam breaking strength

# Tear test
# water repellent

# Color shading/ shade variation

# Dimensional stability (shrinkage properly of fabric from priginal fabric/ gmt’s,

# Phenolic yellowing.

Accessories:

# Pull test for button, Eyelet, Rivet.

# Color fastness (to fabric)

# Storage test.

Print/ Embroidery---

# Color fastness- to washing, water, heat sublimation, storage.

# Storage test

# Twist balance ( Twisting tendency of thread)

Down / Padding-----

# Fill power test ( Fluffy resistance of down fiber )

# Content test ( as per class of fiber )

# Weight test

# Thickness of comparison padding

# Warmth retaining (heat resistance capacity of padding).

C. Negative cases handle---

If any negative cases regarding test issue means if found lab test result’s (any fabric/ accessories/ complete gmts) is failed then communicate with merchandiser as well as Qa side by sales team & need to inform all concern person of factory about failed issue on time.

MAINTENANCE

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A+B. General concept on machine, it’s component’s/ part’s & uses: There are several kind’s of machine using in production line. Some details are given bellow:

** Single needle machine:

1.500 machine (ndl feet machine) in 500 machine specially is ndl bar & feed dock move in at a time.

2. 600 machine: in 600 machine move only feed dock, ndl bar is constant ( not move with ndl bar).

**2 needle machine:

1. Lock stc 2ndl machine – plain 2ndl, left &right 2ndl.

2. Chine stc 2ndl machine.

** Over lock machine:

1. 3 Thread over lock – in 3 thread over lock have 1 ndl.

2. 4 Thread over lock – in 4 thread over lock have 2 ndl & 2 knives (upper & lower) there are no bobbin, have only lopper.

** Inter lock machine: 5 Thread used. Have the chain stc. 2 knives (upper & lower) , no bobbin only lopper used.

** Flat lock machine: 5 Thread, 2 or 3 ndl are used, both sides chain stc & middle stc is lock stc. No usrd bobbin only lopper as over lock & inter lock machine.

** Button hole machine: For flat hole only.

** Button attach machine: For eye hole making for button insert.

** Cycle machine: Used for Velcro, label easy attaching by edge stc.

** Pattern forma machine: Used for placket making.

** Zig- zug machine: To make zig-zug stc.

** Q Q hole machine: For QQ hole key making.

** Feed of the arm: For 2/3 ndl used to make easy side seam or in seam.

** Kansai machine: Lower stc is chain to use for waist band.

## Some important part’s & uses: ** Tension post: To adjust the machine tension.

** Tack up spring: To control the thread coming smoothly at ndl point.

** Pressure feet: To press the fabric when sewing is running.

** Feed dock: To advance the fabric at front when sewing is running.

** Pressure adjuster : To adjust the pressure of pressure feet.

** Regulator: To set up & control the stc repetition.

** Bobbin winder: To rewind the bobbin by thread.

** Back stc leaver: To create the back stc.

** Needle bar: To hold the needle.

C. Type of stitching: Single ndl, 2ndl, over lock, inter lock, flat lock, chain stc, etc.

D. Sewing problem’s: Thread cutting , bad tension, puckering, etc.

E. Safety tools: Tack up leaver, finger safety guide, machine fully cover, motor fully cover, eye safety glass.

Type Of Down. Down Cluster/ fiber. Construction of down model.What is the use of Tyvek, baffle in the gmts.

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Down: mixer of three kind’s of raw materials like---

1. Feather.

2. Fiber

3. Cluster make or called down.

A. Type of down & color of down: There are two kind’s of down using such as--- 1. Goose down.

2. Duck down.

There are two type of down color

1. White down

2. Grey down.

B. Using of tyvek, baffle in gmt’s: Tyvek, baffle uses in the gmt’s to avoid the down migration & see through. For japan order baffle use also for dark color.

C. Necessary of down pillow & it’s preparation : To do the fill power test & down migration test make the down pillow.

Preparation: As per construction & required like shell + baffle + down + baffle + lining sewing the edges all together & that’s called down pillow. Pillow’s measurement is 12’’x 12’’. Also as per construction do the quilting through the pillow.

D. Weight measurement: First without down take the fabric panel’s weight, second fill-up this panel by as per required weight of down then again take the weight. Then minus the weight from second weight to first weight. So found the real down weight.

Down weight +1gram & -1 gram within acceptable ranges.

** Fill power: Feather & cluster ratio means fill power.

Metal detection: For kid’s item & Japan order Youngone do the metal inspection 100% by panel wise & complete garment’s.

Introduce and how to know printing/Logos contents, applications ,drying ,heating, temperature etc.

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A. Introduction of printing: printing logo: printing logo is a one kind of emb which is carried the identification of one buyer or brand, print is very attractive emb. It is chef but profitable thing. Print is making from ink with other’s content.

There are four bases print:

1. Water base.

2. Oil base.

3. Silicon base.

4. Plastisol base.

Logo’s content: content/recipe: Recipe is containing as ratio wise of various chemical with ink recipe gmt’s from supplier.

The content of normal Oil base: ink 100 gram + catalyst 6 gram+ clear 20 gram + hexanone 35 gram’s.

** Water base print: the content of water base print:-

1. Ink color : 80-100 gram.

2. Cold fix : 06-10 gram

3. Pud : 01(clear ) 5-10 gram (if required).

** Uder base for water base print:

1. Pretext pc 80-100gram’s

2. cold fix 6-12 gram’s (or fix-fc 45-4%+4% mixing moistex 2-5.

** Oil base print: The contant of oil base print Ink, Hexanone, Catalyst & clear. For normal ink (oil base) recipe.

Ink 100 gram’s

Catalyst 6 gram’s

Clear 20 gram’s

Hexanone 30 grams--- 35 gram’s.

For silver color ink (oil base) recepe------ .

Ink 100 gram.

Catalyst 8 gram.

Clear not used.

Hexanone 35 gram.

For silver & black reflective ink (oil base) recepe------

Reflective ink 100 gram

Catalyst 6 gram

Clear not used

Hexanone 10 gram

Under base for oil base print------

Clear 100 gram

Catalyst 6gram

Hexanone 35 gram

Silicone base : content of silicone base is ink + hexanone + catalyst + silicone.

Plastisol base print

Water gold ink 100 gram

Water clear 10 gram

Catalyst (7070pj) 4 gram.

Under base for plastisol base print :

Rubber pest 650-100 gram

Catalyst (s-709) 3gram

Note: Hexanone is used to thinner the ink. Mean’s to soften & liquid the ink use the hexanone. Catalyst used for as like a gum to adhesive with the fabric’s . clear is use for shiny to printing.

To make silver color oil base the clear is not use. After using the clear original silver color shade can change.

Some classification of screen print---

1. gel

2. puff print

3. high density print

Embroidery logos. and appliqués ,threads, stitches/emb. Knots and position of embroidery.

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a) Embroidery Logos: This is one kind of emblem of buyer which is display the identity of each buyer/brand & increases the attraction of gmts to consumers. Embroidery logos done by thread.

Appliqué: Appliqué is like patch on gmts which is pasted by embroidery thread around of edges. This is cut from fabric by leisure or Dai cut.

Thread: Thread is the main element of embroidery. There are many kind of thread, like – Marathon/ Coats/ Madera / Paris. (Classic 20/30/40/60) etc.

Thread type is Cotton, Nylon, Metallic.

Stitches: There are some common stitches names:

♣ Jump / Satin / Column stc

♣ Tatami / Fills

♣ Zig-Zug

♣ Run / walk

♣ Two ply

♣ Bean / three ply

♣ Complex fill

Knots: Knots is the one important things of embroidery. Knots create at the end of embroidery. Its must need in embo. If no knots or cut it embo can not be secured & it can open easily. After knots thread end need to keep at least ¼”.

Position of embroidery: Position of the embo is most important in gmts. Position of embo can various places as per buyer requirements like – chest, sleeve, back, collar, lower waist, knee etc. To ensure the position use the pattern. During the embo QA check the position carefully compare with pattern position, artwork.

Machine- For embo YO using the Sunstar machine.

R.P.M- Run Per Minute

Embroidery Logos/Appliques dimension: Embroidery logos/appliqués dimension are required at embo artwork. Pattern maker makes the position as per worksheet sketch. In the design disk have the dimension also. As per disk/artwork fty implement the dimension.

C) How to check & find out the defects and how it’s presentation:

For New issue: QA at first collect the work sheet, color swatch & check the embo carefully like – art work, color way, size/dimension, logo thread color. QA check the pattern, logo position on pattern & compare the panel with pattern. Before the production start do the lab test.

For production: After receive the issue chalan QC check the all information in bundle card like- style no. , fabric item/color, fabric face-back, color code/component with worksheet. Then after making 20 pcs qa check logo dimension, embo thread/color/thickness and other quality with buyer approve swatch as well as worksheet. QC check the embo panel 100% and make daily report. QC checks randomly the logo position with pattern to ensure the logo correct position. After found the rejection in the 100% inspection qc give the rej panel to production supervisor for repair. Repaired panel recheck 100% which are non-repairable, qc maintain a register book to entry that with production supervisor sign & qc give that pieces for recut. After recut/remake QC recheck that production and maintain register.

Some defects in embroidery:

· Logo position displaces / wrong

· Logo bias, thicker, thin.

· Fabric/Logo color way wrong

· Fabric/Panel face-back wrong

· Tension unadjusted (loose/tight)/ looping thread/ gap.

· Broken stc.

· Thread end come out

· Fabric puckering around of embroidery

· Oil marks

· Glue on back of logo side

· Knot unsecured.

Niddle detection in embroidery: During the production times if broken the niddle of machine then need to check all bundle of panel and around of machine head by niddle detector (hand held). If not found the broken niddle need to make broken niddle lost notice report and sign by concern QC, APG and should keep the record in metal detection room. Some of the panels do 100% metal detection in embo room if buyer required.

Layer Chart, Marker & fabric length/width:

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Layer Chart:-Layer chart is one kind of sheet which contain all the information like fabric item, color info, size assort, layer qty etc. Before layer spreading QA must check layer sheet/chart which provided by cutting supervisor. If all information found ok then QA check marker length/width on fabric, fabric width, Ticket information of roll, shade separation report, lab test report, fabric inspection report & running shading report every thing are ok then QA allow to layer spreading. QA inspector check 100% layer.

(b)Fabric Unrolling/Relaxation: For stretchable/spandex/Knitted fabrics must need to be unroll/relax for 12 hours before cutting. Layer qty depends on type of fabric, e.g; for Polar fleece (360 gms)- 40~45 layers. Coated fabrics – 60~80 layers, Codura fabrics – 40~50 layers, Taffeta 210T p/d, w/r- 150~180 layers. Micro fleece- 60~70 layers.

(c)Defects Check on Layer: Based on MCD QA’s shading report cutting QA double check the running-shading & side-center shading in cutting table before spreading the layer same as MCD QA procedure. Cutting Inspector check every layer care fully for weaving (construction), dyeing, cleanness & finishing defects of fabric.

(d)Requirements of Stripe fabrics cutting: For stripe fabric cutting, marker should use Stripe Matching Marker. QA check fabric stripes is bias or not, if fabric stripe is bias then no accept for cutting, if stripe is ok then use the Stripe Matching Marker for cutting. Layer spreading must be carefully to avoid any bias & bow. To avoid any bias stripe of fabric need to use Pinup system in layer.

(e)Cut Panel Inspection: As per MCD fabric inspection report if fabric is ok then cut panel check randomly by cutting qa. We are apply cut pnl inspection method for such kind of fabric panel’s by inspecting some top-middle-bottom pcs of bundle(front, back ,slv). If fabric quality not ok(B/C grade), its need 100% cut pnl inspection.

(f)How to find defect: Wrong cutting defects: To find out wrong cutting defects (size mistake, over cutting) check and compare with the assortment and marker. For bias cutting we check cut pnl from top-middle–bottom of bundle and compare with marker/pattern.

To find number mistake: QC first take two bundle of different part ( like slv to slv or front to front), then compare some panel to each other by serial wise – e.g; take 1^st 20 pcs from each bundle & check with each other. If have 2/3 group shade and if have mistake/one missing serial numbering in serial panel, then panel will not match each other from different shade/missing numbering. So qc can understand that is number mistake.

Bundle mistake: If mistake the assort in one size at bundling time, e.g; bind the bundle for S-size, B with A i/o B with B then called that is bundle mistake.

Parts Replacing: After find out the rejection panel qc register the panel number in register book & give that panel to cutting person. Cutting person compares that panel with same shade fabric and shown to qc, if ok qc tell to cut from that shade and maintain register.

Cause of shading: Bundle mistake, Numbering mistake and Wrong shade panel replacement etc.

Pattern – It’s presentation, uses and importance:

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Pattern is back bone of garments. Pattern make according to size & dressing on marking. Without pattern can’t make the gmts. The pattern uses for making the gmts.

Generally have two kinds of pattern - 1) Cutting pattern & 2) Sewing pattern.

1) Cutting pattern: To cut the fabric piece by piece due to sewing/making the gmts use the cutting pattern. Cutting pattern doesn’t use directly for cut the fabric. Cutting pattern is reflecting on marker.

2) Sewing pattern: Sewing pattern is several kinds. Below given some details:

2. a. Embroidery/Print Pattern: To do the embroidery/Print properly uses this pattern.

2. b. Marking Pattern: To do the marking on panel due to correct shape of panel, proper position of Logo/Label/Patch etc using the marking pattern in sewing line.

2. c. Iron Pattern: To properly fold the seam allowance of patch/panel & to get proper shape uses the Iron pattern.

2. d. Finish Pattern: To do smooth finishing shape of the process use finish pattern. Like collar, Tab, Flap marking & making using finish pattern in sewing process.

Procedure of pattern: After getting the tack pack pattern maker review it & make first basic size pattern as base on sketch, measurement. Then set up in computer system piece by piece. After set up, create a model order and then make marker which is reflect of a pattern to cut the fabric for sewing/making the garments. b) How to check measurements on pattern & how to confirm the corrections:

First take the pattern copy and join the piece to piece with each other by tape. Accept seam allowance can do the measurement as required on pattern.

After correction the pattern in computer systems, take the print of pattern and as same ways can do the measurement and compare with previous pattern measurement, check the variances and required. Then can get the corrections measurement.

c) Difference in Cutting, Sewing and finishing patterns: Cutting pattern for cut the fabric, sewing pattern for in-process using to keep proper allowance (to avoid measurement problem), sewing pattern with seam allowance & finish pattern without seam allowance.

d) Introducing of markers:

Marker: Marker is one kind of paper pattern, which are reflected of cutting pattern. To cut down the fabric need the marker. There is several kind of marker.

Shading marker: When fabric is shading like running shading, side-center shading then use the shading marker. In shading marker main panel (front-front, back, sleeve) should nearest position. For running shading marker should (width wise) group marker & for side-center shading marker should (length wise) shading marker.

Normal/Non-shading marker: If fabric is non-shading, means ok then marker can use normal/non-shading. In non-shading marker panel can positioned normally.

Single marker: Single marker use for one size gmt. For balance qty cutting (very less) use single marker.

One way marker: For printed fabric make one way marker. In one way marker panel should one directed. It’s to avoid reverse print/logo within one gmt. Also for fleece fabric cut by one way to avoid different way in one gmt.

AB way marker: For fleece fabric due to correct way (one way) keeping make AB way marker. In the AB way marker one gmt one way.

Matching marker: For the stripe/check fabric make stripe matching marker. To avoid the unmatched stripe/check in important zone of gmts use stripe matching marker.

Reduce marker: Some times in the fabric roll get the rejection in full roll by length wise (side/edge - like fabric fault, bar etc) but can use that roll by reducing the rejection area. In that case make reduce marker.

Gap marker: When found the reject in the roll and that roll can use by deduct the rej area that case make the gap marker.

Mix marker: In one marker create various sizes by ratio wise like 1:2:2:1.

Mini marker: To see the whole marker easily make the mini marker. In mini marker show the whole marker.

Introducing of Sample:

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Sample: It is a product which reflects the customer’s requirements and producer standards.

Purpose of Sample: To know the functional ability and out looking of the products. As well as set the price for the customer in the competitive business world.

Types of Sample: There are many kinds of sample as per buyer requirements. But usually have following types of sample:

Proto sample, Salesman sample, Size set/Stock Fit sample, Pre-production sample, Shipment sample.

Proto sample: This is known as development sample. The cause of this sample to confirm the construction, calculate the consumption, to fix the price as well as sourcing the materials with price limits.

Salesman sample(sms): This is known as order collection sample. After receive the proto comments make the sms.

Size set/Stock Fit sample: To confirm the fitting make this sample.

Pre-Production Sample(PPS): To ensure/reflect the all comments make the PPS before bulk production.

Shipment Sample: After complete the production & during the shipment take out one sample randomly, that’s called Shipment sample. This is for as a shipment reference of production.

a) Sample making: During the sample making, sample maker check/compare the process with sketch, construction details, BOM, pattern & if have any ref. Sample. After found the any discrepancy about construction/measurement then sample maker discuss with pattern maker. Pattern maker can solve the discrepancy or if not he inform to buyer developments side & wants the necessary action (change or advice) also send the sample or mock-up. In the sample making time, sample maker want to make by the easy procedure to make the gmts on bulk stage. QA notes the all discrepancy for further sampling and inform to buyer (through by sales).

b) Switching of Sample: [Proto => SMS => Stock Fit / Size set => PPS]

1. Proto Sample: Fty first make proto sample as per PDM, sketch, construction details, size spec. some times get the ref. Smpl from buyer & follow it and make proto as per ref. After make the proto send to buyer & one piece keep for fty ref for further compares / follow-up.

If approved by buyer then proceed for next sample like sms. & if not approved fty remake the next proto like proto # 2, 3 with amend all comments.

2. Salesman Sample: After getting the proto comments from buyer fty concern person (pattern maker, sales. . .) review all comments and proceed for sms with amend all proto comments.

3. Stock Fit / Size Set: After sms proceed for stock-fit / size set (as buyer wise requirement). If stock fit/size set not approved remake with amend all comments. If approved then proceed for next step pps or proceed for bulk.

4. Pre-Production: After getting the stock-fit approval proceeds for pps with amend all comments & pps send to buyer for approval. If not approved remake pps & if approved proceed for bulk.

e) PPS/Approval sample: PPS/QRS/SEAL sample is a buyer fixed construction, designed, measurement and color way confirmed sample. Fty follow this sample for bulk production.

After send the pps from fty to buyer, buyer approved and sealed one PPS/QRS/SEAL and send-back to fty with comments for follow in bulk production.

Notes: During the time of sample send to buyer, fty keep all record in documents like sample approval sheet, necessary lab test report for fabric, accessories, print, HT etc in sms times. Keep mock-up & report, pps tracking chart etc for further compare/reference to take necessary step in early stage

Fabric Inspection system & Defect counting:

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QA follow internationally accepted 4-points numerical grading system for fabric inspection. Defect ranges in 1 Linear yard 0 ~ 3’’=1 point, 3~6”=2 points, 6~9”=3 points & 9” to over=4 points. Maximum penalty point per 1 yard is 4 points. & 100 linear yards are 25 points. To calculate points for final disposition-

Point per 100 Linear = Total point ÷ Length of Inspection Roll x 100

(e;g = 18 ÷ 78 x 100= 23.07 pt)

e) Identified the trim’s color, size, content & uses as tack pack/Bom.

f) Shade separation: (i) At first sales provide the buyer approved color standard, shipping swatches to QA from fabric vendor against each dye lot.

(ii) QA make A4 size swatch from middle of each roll. (iii) QA compare the swatch with Std & shipping swatch as well as make group according to shade in Light Box under light source D65 & attach all roll’s swatches in “shade continuity card” along with separate card with 3”x4” sizes swatches from each group. Sending severe shade variation to lab for spectrophotometer reading. YO STD is DE # 0 ~ 1 for roll to roll shade & DE # 0 ~ 0.6 within roll. (iv) QA inform to sales al well as buyer to confirmation/replacement for failed shade fabric. Sales make plan for cutting various shade as PO/Country/Carton wise after getting QA prescribed with QA advice.

Color Shading: Color shading means different color shade between two spaces/position on fabric/gmts. There are two kinds of color shading –i) Side-Center shading & ii) Running shading. Mainly causes of shading is dyeing problems.

How to Check shading: i) Side-Center shading- To check side-center shading from every rolls need to cut about 12” full width by folding side-center-side & sewing to see easily. ii) Running shading: To check running shading every inspected roll must be laying over table by folding every 2/3 yards distance & compare visually.

For shading check we do 3 category - A : Proceed for cutting, B: For use on condition C: Not for use, C-grade treated as fail with RED tag.

How to Handle shading: A-grade- Proceed for cutting with normal marker. B-grade: Proceed for trial cutting on condition as suitable marker (Reduce marker / 100% shading marker) discuss with sales, qa, production concern persons. After made the gmts findings results are ok then proceed for full cutting. C-grade: Not for use. To use this grade, it must be approved with sufficient documents (Buyer confirmation, higher management approval).

g) Wash models procedure: Blanket making - At first cut 6”x6” sizes fabric from middle of fabric from each roll. Like this pcs will make 36 pcs & sewing all pcs by pcs, and it called Blanket. 1 blanket in same color. Usally make 3 blanket, 2pcs send to washing plant for washing (to see washing effect) as per requirement. After washed QA make group shade according to shade and attach all roll’s swatches in shade continuity card with separate card 3”x4”swatches from each group like A, B, C.

Shrinkage Test: For shrinkage test first take ½ yard fabric. Then sewing all around of fabric & take measurement length & wide wise and keep record (before wash). Then send to washing plant for wash as per requirement. After washed take again measurement and compare with before wash measurement & calculate the shrinkage percentage length and wide wise. This percentage add at pattern.

h) Uses of Tag:

i) Pass: If no buyer specific requirements, 0~25 pts per100 Linear yards is considered as pass to cutting. There are no Tag uses.

ii) Yellow Tag: Defects are over 25pts per 100 Linear yards but can be possible to use with short replacement then individual roll should be mark by Yellow Tag. All report should keep with tag. Yellow Tagged roll should hold until decision from authorized person of QA/Sales to use & roll can’t be mix with passed or non-inspected fabrics lots.

iii) Red Tag: Defects are over than 25pts per 100 Linear yards & any roll of the consignment can be non-useable by the visual evaluation or Lab reading that is treated Fail with Red-Tag. All red tag rolls should keep with clear identification & maintain Log Book. To use Red Tag rolls, it must be approved by sufficient documents (buyer confirmation/Higher management approval).

Fabric and Material inspections procedures.

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Fabric defects: Off shade, slub, miss pick, dyeing fault, fold mark, stain, water mark etc.

Material function: zip, button, Velcro – Closing/Adjusting the gmts.(uses @ CF, hood, cuffs, fly etc). D’cord- adjusting the gmts as necessary measurement/fittings (uses @ hem, hood, waist etc).

Test: Color fastness, Color combination, Water resistant, Coating delamination, Shrinkage, Heat sublimation test, Button pull test, Storage test.

Fabric/Material Inspection: After getting the fab/trim receiving status, QA select fab. Roll/Trims randomly for inspection as per AQL 2.5 chart. If fab insp in 2.5 AQL findings not acceptable, continue for 60% insp. If also fail then go for 100% insp & make claim to fab supplier and Trims in AQL 2.5 failed, continue insp for another 20% for clarification. If fail mark in red tag & go for 100% insp. & make claim to trims supplier.

Observing QA Functions. Knowing materials & defects on it.

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QA Function: After arrival Fabric/Trims MCD personnel submit receiving status to QA to make inspection plan & log in receive book. QA finish the primary inspection with in 5 working days after arrival of fabric. QA also do fabric shade separation, Lab test by Lab.

Materials defects: Zip slider wrong way, Incorrect measurement, color peels-off, stopper nonfunctional, easily broken, color contamination (Btn, zip, D’cord etc).

Relationship & Attitude

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Relationship & Attitude should have in Honest, Politely, Respective, Smart.

h) key point: Construction, Colorway, Measurement, Workmanship/out appearance.

i) After found discrepancies need to communicate with fty responsible sales persons as well as buyer side & take necessary decision / step.

Final Inspector:

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# 1^st complete gmts check & compare w/ PPS, Tack pack, T.card & all comments.

#All gmts check 100% & done measurement randomly.

# Maintain register book for size/color wise pass gmts. & keep/maintain all report – hourly, daily, meas. Report, lab test report.

# Any kind of problem inform to QC/Prdn. Supervisor.

Notes: All the inspector should maintain/achieve the Buyer’s Requirements & Satisfactions.

Shell inspector

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1^st shell gmts as well as new color, size check & meas. Compare w / T.pack, T.card, all comments.

# Randomly shell gmts measure . If found prob. Inform to QC/Prdn. Supervisor

# Should maintain all report.

Rules & Responsibility of Inspector: Inline inspector:

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# New input time check chalan, trim/acc/fab & compare w/trim card, tack pack, all comments.

# Follow up SPI, mach. Adjust, seam allowance, measurement.

# Hang to mach. All important process mock up.

# Communicate with shell/final inspector & keep all record in report

Basic Ideas & Principles Of Inspection.

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a,b) Principle, Aims & objective of Inspection:

To make sure the products are Buyer’s satisfied able. The products should level of buyer’s requirements. Buyer’s requirements must follow & full fill by fty.

Activities On Garments

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1.INTRODUCTION:-

2.QA Activities At Cutting Areas:-

3.MCD (Material Control Department):-

4.Metal Detection at MCD, Down Room, Finished Goods:-

5.Sales/Merchandising Team:-
6.PATTERN DESIGN &CAD:-