But there are glimmers of hope to be found. Cases and hospitalizations are dropping, the number of vaccinations continues to climb, and slowly, oh so slowly, daily patterns and community habits are becoming recognizable once again. 

As communities begin to regain some sense of themselves, a number of the most-missed parts of our lives are becoming possible again. Eating indoors, spending time with folks outside our Covid bubbles, and attending public events are among the activities that were immediately popular as pandemic guidelines began to soften. And, without wanting to jinx themselves, or anybody who shares their desires and needs, many people have begun to talk about traveling. Traveling! One of the more challenging, non-fatal, realities of the past year or so has been the inability to move freely. Not just from one nation to another, but from our homes to the grocery store or place of worship. That seems to be changing. In late May the European Union said that they would welcome travelers from other parts of the world if they can prove they have been vaccinated. 

But picking up and going will not be a simple matter. The rush to normalcy, whatever that is, is already bringing crowded planes, overpriced lodging, and a labyrinth of pandemic protocols to stumble through. For many, hopping on a plane to visit family or see long-awaited international wonders, is just going to have to wait. Happily, as paradoxical as it might sound, just because you can’t travel doesn’t mean you can’t travel. 

With wine, far away places are always only an arms-length away. Just last month I had the great luck to visit a few places in the land of La Dolce Vita, and I didn’t even have to leave my office. 

My first stop was in the northern Italy region of Trentino-Alto Adige, an unsually warm climate given its northern latitude. The narrow valleys above the Adige River trap heat in the summer months, which allows a diverse array of grape varieties to thrive there, not only those known as early ripeners. But we didn’t go all that way for those grapes. We came for chardonnay and pinot nero, with a big side of fizziness. And we found it in the 2015 Endrizzi “Piancastello” Brut Riserva TrentoDOC, aka Trentodoc, the name given to the sparkling wines of the Trentino region.

In the glass it’s a clear, brilliant, lemon gold, with a fine and insistent perlage. Wafting aromas fill the air, replete with scents of lemon and lime, spring flowers, wet stones, and green herbs. Once in the mouth the wine shows itself to be filled with mouth-scrubbing acid, and a textured mouthfeel that only grows with time. Delicate notes of biscuit and apple lead to a long and lingering finish. The wine is balanced, concentrated, with a pleasing depth.

60% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir 12.8% abv
$25 SRP

We couldn’t stay in the beautiful mountain valleys of the north very long as we had places to go and wines to meet. Before too long we found ourselves in Chianti, in the heart of Tuscany, one of the first demarcated wine regions in the world. More specifically, we landed in Chianti Classico, the heart of this historic zone, near the town of Gaiole, one of the first villages to be included in the edict handed down in 1716 by Cosimo III, the Grand Duke of Tuscany.

Owned by the Frescobaldi family, a leading power in Tuscan wine going back to the 13th century, Tenuta Perano sits in a southern-facing sloped amphitheater about 500 meters above sea level, a perfect site for producing ripe and concentrated wine grapes. The 2017 Frescobaldi Tenuta Chianti Classico is living proof of this.

Tenuta Perano 2017 shows a clear, garnet core to a soft, rose rim. On the nose are aromas of cherry and vanilla and oak, along with hints of wet stones, green herbs, and white flowers. On the palate, you are presented with vibrant acid and grippy tannins, plenty of red and black cherry, and a touch of earthiness on the finish. All parts come together for a seamless and delightful whole. This is a versatile wine that can work well with roasted meats, red sauce pasta dishes, and everything in between. Easily a fun treat all by itself, too.

Sangiovese and complementary varieties (per winery); 13.5% abv
$33 SRP

Until you can find a way to get over to Italy, or any other inviting wine region for that matter, take comfort in knowing that international travel is only as far away as your local, independent wine shop. There you’ll find folks eager to guide you on your adventures in the wine world. Cheers!

**samples from wineries via Colangelo & Partners
**Photos courtesy of The Grape Belt

In the past several years, whenever I get a sample to review from a winery or a public relations group, I have more often than not given the wine only a day or two to show its stuff. Taste on day one after opening, and then maybe another look-see 24 hours later to see if it had held up, possibly improved, or if it had completely fallen apart.  Unfortunately too many of the wines I gave this little bit of extra scrutiny to failed to seize the moment or rise to the occasion. Most of the time, my initial impression turned out to be correct. Apart from a few pleasant surprises, wines that were clumsy, hot, or oddly unbalanced on day one usually stayed that way.

My sample pile is much lower these days, fewer chances to dig into the unknown, so in order to entertain myself, I figured I’d give the Culmen at least an extra day to show what it was made of. After day one, I realized that I would be able to give the wine three or four days to introduce itself. Why? Well, on day one this dark, brooding Rioja was tighter than a frog’s bottom, which we all know is water-tight. It was going to need more than a quick decant and a few swirls of the glass to get it to start talking.

Before we take a look at how the wine performed over the four days, here’s a little bit about the wine itself.

Culmen is a blend of 88% tempranillo and 12% graciano. The former variety can show low acids even in a wet year, but 2011 was a drought year in Rioja and the tempranillo was under tremendous stress. Yields were low and the fruit showed substanial concentrations of polyphenols (in the simplest terms, those compounds that eventually provide a wine with color and texture, aroma and flavor). As expected, acids were low and pH high. The graciano, as is its wont, provided the lion’s share of the wine’s acid, and thus its eventual brightness on the palate. It also made a generous contribution to the wine’s rich color. The grapes were sourced from estate vines grown at an elelvation of nearly 500 meters, which are between 40-60 years old, and trained in traditional Riojan bush or head-pruned style.  Much of Rioja enjoys the protection of the Sierra Cantabria mountain range to the north and west, and thus a more moderate climate than many regions around Spain. This location provides warm days and cool nights, a steady diurnal swing that allows for optimum grape development.

The grapes were hand-harvested and hand-sorted, followed by fermentation in small, cone-shaped tanks to maximize color extraction, then by malolactic fermentation and an initial aging of 26 months in new French oak barrels. The wine was bottled and allowed to rest for nearly another two years. As a reserva, the wine is required by law to age at least three years in cask and bottle, and at least one of those years must be in oak barrique. The Culmen is produced only in those years regarded as superior by the LAN winemaking team. The 2011 release is the most recent vintage available of this label. $60-65 SRP. 13.5% abv.

So, onto the show…

Day One:

In the glass the wine is opaque, deep maroon lightening slightly only near the rim. On the nose there are intense aromas: red cherry, cherry pie, oak and vanilla, with bits of graphite and some fresh flowers. In the mouth, intense remains the operative qualifier. This is a massive wine, not showing more than a year or two of age out of the nine it’s been alive. Not quite primary but still so, so youthful. There is a fascinating tension between its nearly impenatrable concentration and the refreshing fruit flavors it offers. There is plenty of tannin to go around but that’s balanced by loads of bright acid to create an impressive structure. The alcohol seems a bit desperate for attention at this point. The finish is long and lingering. A powerhouse of a wine.

Day Two

The aromas remained unchanged, with cherry, vanilla, oak, and pencil shavings still prominent. Underlines in my notes on oak and cedar; vanilla and pencil shavings. Likewise, the acid and tannins are still at attention; happily the alcohol is a bit more well-behaved. Still super-concentrated, and the finish remains long, if not a bit longer today.  In the margins — “chocolate thunder!” and  “black beauty!”

Day Three

I was disappointed but intrigued to see that little had changed in 24 hours. The wine remained unmoved, stolid, and still intense.  Forty-eight hours since opening has had little effect. Underlined previous comments on concentration, youth, and size. In the margins: Massive.

Day Four

Nose is getting a bit heavier with notes of baked cherries, but after several minutes in the glass out pops brighter fruit; the texture lengthens and gets silkier. Notes of black pepper, a bit of stoniness; tannins still powerful but now micro-fine and tight. Quite a transformation, certainly unexpected. Forty-five minutes later there are growing aromas of dried herbs, and increasingly complex red and black fruit notes. This is a wine with many years left in it. I’d love to see it in another 10 years, but certainly grateful for the chance to see it in its youth. 

**Wine was sample from Bodegas LAN via Gregory+Vine, New York NY

**Featured photo and vineyard overhead courtesy of Bodegas LAN. Bottle shots property of The Grape Belt. Photos cannot be used without express written permission.

Bodegas LAN from Rioja is actually one of those wineries that tells the truth and backs it up. Their commitment to quality is deliberate, consistent, and can be found in every wine they produce.

A few months back I had the chance to taste their wines at Bellota in San Francsico with several other wine writers. We were hosted by Enrique Abiega, CEO of Bodegas LAN, and Trinidad Villegas, the winery’s director for USA exports. The event was organized by Gregory + Vine, and hosted by Trish Heywood, their managing director.

We learned quite a bit about LAN (the name is an acronym representing the three provinces of the Rioja DOCa: Logroño, Álava, and Navarra), its history, current organic farming practices, and a great deal about their winemaking. For these matters and all things LAN, head over to www.bodegaslan.com and take a closer look at what makes this winery worth watching.

While so much of what we heard that afternoon was indeed interesting, the real story, of course, was in the glasses in front of us. And what became clear, rather quickly, was that these wines played well above their price points. Ridiculously so in a few instances. Not all wines show their best in moments like this, for a seemingly infinite number of reasons. But the LAN selections that afternoon were singing for us.

We were greeted at the door with a cool glass of white wine  from one of LAN’s recent acquisitions in Rias Baixas in northwestern Spain. Their Santiago Ruiz “O Rosal” albarino was a welcome start to the event. Aromatic, crisp and clean, with mouth-watering acid, and lots of citrus flavors, and just a bit of a minerally finish. SRP $20 13% abv

The meal opened with a group of tapas, including this bright salad of heirloom tomatoes, stonefruit, cucumber, migas, jimmy nardellos, and topped with shavings of six-month-old manchego cheese.

Along with the salad we enjoyed dishes of ethereal patatas bravas — crispy Kennebec potatoes, chipotle bravas salsa, and smoky aioli.

The raciones, or main dishes, of the tasting lunch, gave us a mushroom paella, with autumn squash, broccoli di ciccio, sunchokes, chesntnuts, pickled red onions, and pomegranate. Guests also enjoyed a chuleton, a wood-grilled, dry-aged Flannery beef steak, with Basque tximitxurri, bone marrow holandesa, and shallot butter. The delicious food at Bellota made focusing on the wines that much more challenging.

The heart of the afternoon, of course, was the wine. Not a bad sip to be had, and more than a few surprises. Here are my brief tasting notes, in order.

LAN D12 2015: On the nose obvious notes of American and French oak, and plenty of red and black fruit. Velvety mouthfeel carrying complex flavors and fine, mouth-coating tannins and ample amounts of bright acid. 100% tempranillo. SRP $18 14% abv

LAN D12 2016: A cooler vintage than the preceding year, giving the wine a tight concentration, and a mostly muted nose. Similar profile to the ’15 but definitely needs more time in the bottle. Both of these wines were spectacular values. Most guests figured they retailed at twice the price. 100% tempranillo. SRP $18. 13.5% abv

Viña Lanciano reserva 2012: This wine is only produced in stellar vintages. In this line, the next one, still unreleased, will be the 2015. There are bright red cherry aromas, and a mild whiff of oak. Loads of mouth-watering acid, soft tannins, and a long lingering finish. Another great value. 90% tempranillo, 8% graciano, 2% mazuelo. SRP $25. 13.5% abv

LAN Edición Limitada 2013: More bright red fruit on the nose and in the mouth. I detected hints of what I thought was cedar but was told that this wine was aged in a blend of new French oak and some Russian oak. On the palate it is all about the fruit and the acid; balanced, complex and juicy. 82% tempranillo, 10% mazuelo, 8% graciano. SRP $40-50. 13.5% abv

LAN Edición Limitada 2016: This wine underwent malolactic conversion in new French oak and then was aged in the same, followed by four months in new Russian oak. Nose was tight but red and black fruit detected. The alcohol, still integrating, was peeking around the corner a bit. On the palate you find layers of tart, red fruit and abundant, crisp acid; again, the alcohol has its shirt slightly untucked. 85% tempranillo, 10% graciano, 5% mazuelo. SRP $40-50. 13.5% abv

LAN Xtreme 2014: This was the first public tasting for this vintage; only 5000 bottles made (415 cases approximately). Floral aromas dominate, with abundant red fruit and hints of vanilla. The palate is concentrated and balanced; plenty of refreshing acid and grippy tannins. The wine is complex, with a long, subtle finish. 100% tempranillo. Certified organic.  SRP $20. 14% abv

LAN Xtreme 2015: Eight thousand bottles (660 cases approximately) produced, and now available in USA market. Complex aromas of red fruit, vanilla, cedar, earth. Palate is all dark, dark fruit. Impressive concentration and balance; rich mouthfeel; energetic acid. Needs more time in the bottle. Great QPR! (quality-price ratio) 100% tempranillo. Certified organic. SRP $18. 14% abv 

Both Xtremes are still integrating and will benefit from a few more years someplace cool and quiet. While one could not be blamed for diving into them immediately, patience with these bottles will be rewarded. Terrific wines at grab-em-up prices.

**Featured image courtesy of Bodegas LAN

**All other photos property of The Grape Belt.

Here’s a quick bit of background courtesy of Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine: “Cariñena, town in north-east Spain which lends its name to both a denominated wine zone and a vine variety, widely grown in southern France as carignan. Although it is thought to have orgininated in the area, (officially known as Mazuelo in Spain) the vine has been widely abandoned here in favor of garnacha, which seems better suited to the arid growing conditions in this, the largest of the four DO zones of the Aragon region. But Cariñena, like so many other regions of Spain, is trying to break with the viticultural and winemaking flaws of the past.”

I can’t speak for the wines of Cariñena’s past, but I do know this: once the word gets around that there are great values to be had here, things are going to change. And one of those things is price. Right now, there are terrific values coming out of Cariñena. My advice is to get on top of the region, find a few bottles that you really enjoy, and stock up. This golden goose, I fear, won’t live forever.

2012 Viñas Viejas de Paniza (Bodegas Paniza Co-Op) Garnet core to purple-pink rim. Aromas of red and black cherry, vanilla, slightly floral. On the palate plenty of sour cherry; finish is short and a bit hot. Decent value but nothing more. A drinker, not a thinker. Pizza and tacos would be complementary fare. 100% garnacha  14% abv  $10-12 SRP

2014 Artigazo Edicion Limitada (Bodegas Grandes Vinos) Rim starting to fade a bit; red cherry and baking spice aromas followed by a slight confected note with strains of vanilla. The alcohol here is not shy; gentle tannins are mouth-coating; juicy red fruit and refreshing acid, with some earthy notes on finish. Not sure the cabernet sauvignon really adds to the overall quality. Would be better, I think, without it. Could be a good match for grilled or roasted meats. 40% garnacha 30% syrah 30% cab sauv  15% abv  $20-25 SRP

2016 Paniza Cariñena (Bodegas Paniza Co-Op) Confected cherries and spice; slightly cloying in the mouth; cherry jelly; medium finish and a bit hot as alcohol asserts itself. Not the best of the bunch. Might be suitable for a backyard party where nobody is really paying attention to what’s in their glass. 100% cariñena  13.5% abv  $10-15 SRP

2016 Particular Cariñena (Bodegas San Valero) Nearly opaque in the glass; deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black cherry are relatively muted. Bright fruit flavors (cherry and strawberry); insistent, refreshing acid; delightful mouthfeel. Alcohol shows a tiny bit on the finish but not a distraction. Delicious. Balanced and concentrated. Surprisingly complex for the price point. This belongs on the dinner table any night of the week. Tremendous value. 100% cariñena  14% abv  $9.99 SRP

2016 Monasterio de las Viñas (Bodegas Grandes Vinos) Opaque ruby to purplish rim; aromas bursting with spring flowers and lavender, red and black cherry, baking spices. Fills the mouth with bright and juicy cherry and raspberry flavors. Balanced, complex, and refreshing. A great mouthful of wine. Beautiful typicity — what garnacha is supposed to taste like. I would not mind having a case or two of this lying around. 100% old vine garnacha  14.5% abv  $17.99 SRP

2017 El Circo “Acrobata” (Bodegas Grandes Vinos) Muted nose with traces of cherry-filled confections; slightly cloying in the mouth. Bright fruit flavors throughout. Good texture and concentration. Refreshing acid. Slightly warm on the lingering finish. Definitely plays well about its price point. Solid value worth looking for. 100% garnacha  13.5% abv  $9.99 SRP

**Samples from Gregory + Vine (Thank you, Stefanie Schwalb). (Number four in the lineup was the Bodegas Grandes Vinos 3C — flawed)

**Thanks to Tina Morey, of Wine Studio, for introducing me to these wines and producers. http://www.winestudioTINA.weebly.com

**Photos courtesy of The Grape Belt and are not to be used or reproduced without express written permission. Including photo of Wine Grapes (Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz), p. 616.

The famed tiled roof of the Hospices de Beaune, also known as the Hotel de Dieu de Beaune, stands in stark contrast to the brilliance of the morning sky. According to Beaune’s Office of Tourism, “A hospital foundation from the Middle Ages, the Hospices de Beaune is one of France’s most prestigious historic monuments. Its flamboyant Gothic architecture, its polychrome roofs and a renowned vineyard make this museum one of Burgundy’s gems. The Hospices de Beaune is also famous for its 60 hectares wine estate, producing prestigious wines, sold at auction on the third Sunday in November.”

The best way to learn about wine, even more so than tasting and reading, is travel. You can study and drink all you like but nothing substitutes for boots-on-the-ground examinations of the places and people who produce the bottles you love. Being in Burgundy or Rioja or Central Otago or a thousand other vine-covered locales is always the best way to understand a region and the fruits thereof.

But travel to faraway places is not always possible. What to do, what to do? One pleasant substitute for seeing a place in person is the vicarious experience of visiting through the lens of a smart and passionate filmmaker.

An appealing example of film’s power to transport is the recent series called Wine Masters, from Klaas de Jong and his Farmhouse Film & TV Productions, a documentary film house in the Netherlands. The first season in what I hope will be a long-running effort focuses on five of France’s major wine regions: Rhone, Loire, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Alsace. Each episode, approximately 40 to 45 minutes in length, focuses on the particular region through the history of one of the area’s prominent families, their origin, their philosophy, and, finally, their wine. To most wine aficionados names like Guigal, Trimbach, Drouhin and others are commonplace, but to those new to wine, these families and their members quickly become friends you can’t wait to meet and learn more about.

A typical stone-bathed vineyard just outside of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhone. Soils in the region are usually variants of clay, sand, and gravel over limestone subsoils. Many parcels are even rockier than the one pictured here, filled with large stones called galets, which retain daytime heat and warm the vines at night. Tending these vineyards can be arduous on even the easiest of days. How sturdy would your ankles and knees have to be?!

There are many things to like about de Jong’s work: crisp photography, intimate storytelling, and, perhaps most importantly, accessible explanations of the essential elements that tie land and people and history together. Never overly technical, but not so simplistic as to condescend, the narratives offer enough insight into the featured regions and producers to both intrigue the neophytes and satisfy the experts.

Interviews of the producers and their families are complemented by appearances of Jeannie Cho Lee and Tim Atkin, each a Master of Wine, who are able to offer informed appreciations that make sense to wine lovers of every caliber. Their expertise helps viewers understand why these regions, families, and wines matter so much. Between Lee and Atkin, and the families themselves, what is often regarded as esoteric and inaccessible becomes just the opposite. These families are, and have been for centuries, basically grape farmers. But, they are farmers who have learned the magic of turning their crops into something that brings joy to people around the globe.

A late October sun glows above the autumnal colors of Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. Harvest had just finished, making it one of the latest in the region for at least two decades. A challenging growing season for a variety of reasons, experts have more faith in the quality and viability of the white wines, with reviews of the reds being somewhat mixed.

De Jong and his team reached out to me before Christmas last year asking me if I’d like to watch the first season and perhaps write a review. I quickly agreed and then just as quickly got busy with a thousand other things. My password for free access expired more than once. Finally, too embarrassed to ask for another shot, I simply bought the series for my own viewing. I had already watched two and a half episodes and I was hooked. No way was I going to miss whatever came next. Not surprisingly, when I finished the fifth and final episode I had the same reaction I have when a good bottle has been drained: isn’t there any more? Why isn’t there any more?

If you really want to get to France to learn more about your favorite wines, here’s your chance. You’ll be hard pressed to find a more comfortable or more affordable wine tour anywhere. Bon voyage!

Wine Masters was produced with subtitles in seven languages and is available on iTunes, Amazon Prime, Google, Play, Vimeo, and its own site, winemasters.tv  A fair amount of dialogue is in French; turning on the closed captioning is recommended for those not proficient in the language. 

**Photos courtesy of The Grape Belt and are not to be used or reproduced without express written permission.

I will admit that these wines made me hesitate. First, I’m always suspicious of labels with cartoon animals on them, and, second, because Arrogant Frog seemed to tiptoe a bit close to the bigotry out-of-bounds line. Turns out that the owner and winemaker, Jean-Claude Mas, has embraced this durable stereotype other nations have for the French as a way of showcasing the increasingly popular wines he produces.  And, any doubts I had stemming from the woozy amphibian staring at me disappeared as soon as I tasted the wine.  The reviews below are in order, starting with the wines I liked the most. The two whites tied for first, with the rosé a close second. All five wines are from the Languedoc region, all have a suggested retail price of $9.99. Most of them perform well about this price.

2016 Arrogant Frog Sauvignon Blanc (100% sauvignon blanc, 12.5% abv.) A pale greenish gold in the glass, with aromas of white grapefruit, lemon, and whiffs of green herbs, lemon candy and a hint of flint.  Bone-dry on the palate, the wine’s texture in the mouth is a delight. Refreshing, insistent acid, and complex citrus and tropical flavors carry you to a long, lingering finish. This is an excellent value.

2016 Arrogant Frog Chardonnay (85% chardonnay, 15% viognier, 13% abv.) A brilliant but pale lemon yellow, offering tropical fruit aromas, along with notes of white flowers and vanilla. Dry, with mouth-watering acid, well integrated alcohol, and a pleasant, almost creamy texture. Flavors of green apple, Meyer lemon, some peach and vanilla; bits of wet stone on the finish. It’s a juicy wine that keeps you coming back for more. The biggest indicator of this wine’s potential popularity was when a family member, who is averse to most chardonnays, said that this was a wine she would enjoy drinking. Another terrific value.

2016 Arrogant Frog Rosé (100% syrah, 13% abv.) I’ll simply say that I don’t know of a pink wine at this price that offers as much as this rosé. Bright salmon hues draw you to a glass exploding with aromas of flowers, cherry soda, watermelon Jolly Ranchers, with a hint of wet stones. On the palate there is a surprising array of complex flavors, with raspberry and watermelon out in front. Refreshing acid and a pleasing mouth-feel, well integrated alcohol, and impressive concentration round out this bargain of a wine.

2016 Arrogant Frog Cabernet-Merlot (55% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 13.5% abv.) Pretty to look at with a deep ruby core leading to a garnet rim, but not much to enjoy on the nose, its aromas being somewhat muted. Flavors of black cherry, licorice, and vanilla fill the mouth. The wine is not terribly clumsy but is a bit disjointed. The tannins coat the front of the mouth and stay there. There is a savory, earthy finish that only lasts a moment. This wine would be perfectly acceptable at a large party — agreeable but not looking for any real attention. Nor deserving any. Versatile enough for all sorts of meats and cheeses, as well as a sturdy red sauce dish or well appointed pizza. This wine is a drinker, not a thinker.

2016 Arrogant Frog Pinot Noir (100% pinot noir, 13.5% abv.) I’m a big pinot noir fan so this wine’s poor showing was a disappointment. In its defense, making quality pinot noir, wines with something interesting to offer, at such a low price is damn near impossible. While attractive to the eye, there is a slight chemical note to the nose. And, like the blend above, it comes with a strange, cloying tannic affect, coating the lips and front of the mouth and stopping. There are pleasant fruit flavors in the glass, but the 13.5% abv. sticks out in all the wrong places. Upon a second taste, the wine had quickly devolved into a clumsy mash-up of cloying candy and tart, under-ripe fruit. I can’t recommend this, even as a party crowd pour.

Despite this last bottle not showing well — for all I know it could be simply a matter of bottle variation, and another sample might have offered a surprise similar to its companions — don’t condemn the entire line. These are well made wines that offer, mostly, far more complexity and delight than many wines in this price range. Cheers!

**All wines are samples provided by Domaine Paul Mas via Gregory + Vine, New York

Kent Rosenblum with daughter, Shauna, on the back deck of Rock Wall Wine Co. in Alameda.

You couldn’t ask for a more welcoming arrangement. Perched above the winery floor inside a converted warehouse, on a sliver of a loft, the “tasting room” could only accommodate a few people at a time, which allowed for personal attention from whomever was pouring, and gave those tasting plenty of time to ask questions, enjoy a range of wines, and lap up the view looking west to the Bay Bridge and San Francisco. No sales push, no coercion to join any clubs. Nothing but, “what else would you like to try?” The glasses and the pours, like the wines, were big. While I had been to a few wineries and tasting rooms before, I had never visited any repeatedly. It wasn’t long before Mary and I became wine club members. Rockpile Road, Monte Rosso, St. Peter’s Church, Harris Kratka, Hendry, Annie’s Reserve, and so many others. We learned so much drinking those ripe and powerful zinfandels, as well as the other varietal bottlings and blends. They boosted my knowledge and enthusiasm in ways I could never have anticipated.

I had seen Kent at the winery a few times but it wasn’t until years later, after he had sold Rosenblum to Diageo and gone down the street to start Rock Wall Wine Co. with his daughter, Shauna, that I got a chance to speak with him. And, each time that I saw him at an industry event, I must confess, I had a bit of a fan boy moment, a tingle that I still get when I spend time with winemakers I admire and whose wines I enjoy. It’s the feeling, if you’re a wine lover, that you’re in the presence of someone special, someone who can do great things. Anybody who can make delicious wines that have some soul, some gravity to them, wines that make you want to taste and learn more, well, that’s great in my book. In person, Kent was warm, unpretentious, modest, funny, engaging, and attentive. The world is a better place for his having been here. I really wish I still had some of those early Rosenblums in my cellar.

*** *** *** ***

On November 13, 2003, my wife and I opened a 1996 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo. I’m confident I’ve never had a single bottle of wine be the catalyst of both colossal regret and phantasmagoric epiphany at the same time.

My rookie tasting note from that evening reads, “Still opening two hours after opening [sic!].  Tight and lean, becoming fuller, longer, more complex. Finish is overwhelming — it lasts and lasts and lasts. Drink ten to 15 years from now.” Back then we were scoring our wines, based on a precise yet completely intuitive and subjective rubric. This wine received a 9+/10.

This is, obviously, not the 1996 Rinaldi that had me seeing stars, but a bottle I enjoyed in Rome in November 2017 with my wife and our older daughter. We were there to celebrate her upcoming master’s degree from the business management program at Trinity College Dublin. The only stars I saw that night were seated at the table with me.

My wife, as is her wont, went off to bed ahead of me and left me with the last glass and a half that remained in the bottle. Over the next hour — this was far too good to drink with any haste, gluttony be damned — the wine continued to fill out and open up even more, becoming more textured, more complex. I still remember closing my eyes and having an image of blue velvet cloth and silver stars fill my mind. I had never had such an experience with a glass of wine before, and only one or two similar moments since. I’d had wine made from the nebbiolo grape a number of times but never a high-end Barolo. This wine gave us more over the course of that meal than either one of us expected, or even knew to expect. And, it opened my eyes to that world people refer to when they speak of the finest wines and the magical charms they often carry.

Epiphany? Certainly. Regret? Certainly, again. The wine was way too young to drink, years away from reaching its peak. I’d give quite a bit to have that ’96 still in my cellar. Of course, I might not get the blue velvet and silver stars the next time around. Such is the elusive and ephemeral nature of wine.

Once I got into the wine industry and began attending events where winemakers from around the globe made themselves available, I nurtured the hope that at some point down the line, either here in the States or over in Italy, I would meet Giuseppe Rinaldi. I would have a fleeting moment to gush and tell him what an experience I had with his wine, what a rabbit hole it pulled me into, and how grateful I was for his generous craftsmanship. His passing last week now makes that impossible. For me and countless other wine lovers. The best I can do is gather a few of his wines for my cellar and see, in the coming years, if any more of them are made with silver and velvet.

*** *** *** ***

There is a common superstition that death comes in threes. Enough people die every day that you can find a trio of commonalities without having to look very hard, so I’m confident that there is nothing to the superstition. And yet, the deaths of these two winemakers were not the only losses I felt last week. There was a third.

Last Tuesday I received a warm and supportive note from my WSET Diploma instructor, Adam Chase, that was filled with bad but not entirely unexpected news. My most recent attempt to finish the requirements for Level IV was for naught. I had promised myself that regardless of the test results, the June exam would be my final shot. I had taken it three times (studied for it twice) and enough was enough.

Does it sting? Yes and no. I’m not one to be obsessed with completing every task or winning every contest, but the Diploma was something I thought was well within my capacity. I’ve always been pretty good at school when I wanted to be. I ended up passing five and a half of the six exams, but Unit 3 Theory was my Waterloo. I racked up a few merits and distinctions along the way so I figured, wrongly, that I’d eventually earn the Diploma. Maybe I shouldn’t have been so cocky after passing Unit 3 Tasting with almost no preparation.

Time to move on. No more rants about antiquated testing conditions or “what ifs” to haunt myself with. I’m comfortable embracing the idea of learning for the sake of learning. If I’d stopped at Level III, the Advanced certificate, I never would have dug so deeply into spirits, sparkling and fortified wines, or the grittier details of farming and winemaking. I’m better for all that I’ve read and understood. Will I ever have a firm grasp on German labeling laws or similarly arcane subjects? No, and that’s okay. I have lots of wine books now. If I need to know something, I’ll just look it up.

**photo of Kent and Shauna Rosenblum courtesy of Rock Wall Wine Co. 

Yes, I would have laughed. And, I would have been wrong.

With each review of canned wines, I become more optimistic about this as a category with potential for growth in both market share and quality. It’s clearly time to stop dismissing wines based on their packaging.

The most recent example of this steady improvement is “Ah-So,” a new label from Carlos Lopez de Localle, a third-generation producer from Navarra in Spain, and Dustin Chiapetta, a veteran of the wine and hospitality worlds.

The Lopez family vineyards are planted with vines ranging from 15 to 45 years old, on predominantly clay and limestone soils. The annual yield is approximately five tons per hectare, or just short of two tons per acre. The wine is 100% garnacha, and is 100% free-run juice, gathered during a five-hour gravity press. This is not a saigneé, where juice is bled off from a press to intensify the character and concentration of a subsequent red wine. Rather, these grapes were farmed intentionally to produce a rosé. The entire vinification process, including an 18-20 day fermentation, is done in all stainless steel in order to preserve the freshness of the grapes.

Ah-So Rosé NV
Navarra, Spain

The neat trick to canned wine, I suppose, is that you’re able to enjoy it straight from the can. But, if you were to pour it into a glass, like I did, you’d be struck by its brilliant cherry red color. Cans keep the wine well chilled so any aromas you go looking for will be muted at first, but will show up if the wine is given a chance to shake off its cold open.

On the palate, you’ll enjoy bright cherry and berry flavors, along with fresh, mouth-watering acid, and pleasant, soft tannins leading into a medium finish. The wine shows impressive balance and concentration.

As the wine gets closer to ambient temperatures, it reveals increasing complexity, a soft, almost lush texture, and several more elements that invite your attention. In full bloom, this wine offers more than many rosés carrying steeper price tags.

100% garnacha. 12.5% abv
NA cases/barrels produced
$18.99 for four 250ml (8.2 oz) cans SRP

**sample from winery via Gregory + Vine

Okay, I’m a mostly open-minded guy. I  have a knee-jerk aversion to anything that strikes me as trendy or shamelessly precious or senselessly popular. In that pile I often find things that self-important writers, preening sommeliers, or unmoored retailers think are the next best and biggest thing. Natural wines. Funky wines. The funkier the better. And Pet-Nat.

Any of the above can be okay on their own, and some claim deep, historical roots. And, when done well, are a refreshing change from the tried-and-true. But, my wariness for these and other new old ways isn’t because I’m an inherently contrary person (okay, that’s not completely true), but because I’m gun-shy. Some of these adventures in fermentation are disasters from start to finish, and too often taste like a tub of yak urine in which have soaked the rags of Lazarus. Just not nice stuff. “Oh, but it’s natural! It’s authentic! It’s the way the ancients made wine!” Right. But, how does it taste?

Not familiar with Pet-Nat, short for pétillant-naturel? Here’s a solid and happily brief description from Justin Kennedy writing for Bloomberg.com in October 2015.

“Pétillant-naturel (natural sparkling) is a catch-all term for practically any sparkling wine made in the méthode ancestrale, meaning the wine is bottled before primary fermentation is finished, without the addition of secondary yeasts or sugars. (This is in contrast to méthode champenoise, the method used to make Champagne and other more-common sparkling wines, in which a finished wine undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle with additional yeasts and sugars). [European Union rules now prohibit the use of the term methode champenoise, insisting now that such wines be referred to as methode traditionelle. — ed.]

“The ancient method produces a simpler, more rustic sparkler than Champagne, one that is traditionally cloudy, unfiltered, and often bottled with a crown cap (like a beer) rather than a cork. The end product is also unpredictable: Opening each bottle is a surprise, evocative of the time and place where it was bottled.

“Colloquially shortened to “pét-nat,” the wines can be white, rosé, or red in color, making them super-versatile for pairing with a wide range of foods. They vary in carbonation from effusively effervescent to tiny, prickly bubbles. And thanks to those natural yeasts and sugars, most are a little funky but ultimately gulpable, clocking in at around 10 percent alcohol (several degrees lower than most still wines).”

Anyway, I told Drew I’d taste his wines and, even if I’m contrary and close-minded, I’m a man of my word. But Pet-Nat? This stuff better be good.

First to be examined was the albariño. After a few sips I realized that much of what I thought about Pet-Nat had to be reconsidered, if not set aside. A hazy, green-gold in the glass, with a soft and quickly dissipating mousse, this wine is pleasantly (i. e., surprisingly) clean on the nose, with aromas of white flowers, lemon, ripe red apples, and wet stones. The palate mimics the nose. The mousse is soft and restrained, but gives the wine some zippy verve, some real tension and energy. I imagine it would be a treat with a fatty seafood appetizer, maybe with scallops. (225 cases produced)

Okay, so there are some good pet-nat wines out there. Well, one anyway.

Up next was the grüner veltliner. A hazy, pale champagne color, a quick pour creates a gentle mousse that gathers on the rim before settling. Immediately there are refreshing aromas of fresh-cut flowers, pears, green herbs, ripe grapefruit and hints of freshly mown grass. In the mouth there is a stoniness, with flavors of grapefruit pith, pear skins, and bright acid shepherding it all to a long, lingering finish. Terrific concentration and texture from top to bottom. (80 cases produced)

Last but not least, the chenin blanc, which cemented for me the realization that I need to be more open to this style. Mr. Baker has set the bar pretty high, and I’m okay with that.

The color of lemonade or grapefruit juice, this friendly bit of fizz is floral on the nose, with alluring aromas of cut grass, lemons, green apple, and bits of lavender. Delightful, sure, but it’s on the palate where the magic happens.

Good wine is intriguing, causing one to pause and wonder just what the heck is going on. This is a good wine. The mousse brings focus to the flavors and textures in the glass: lemons, apple, hints of the waxy, lanolin notes typical of chenin. These complex and concentrated flavors tumble around each other and grab your attention. Refreshing acid throughout, with a lingering finish that pulls you right up to your next sip. Will be superb with almost any light summer fare — cool salads, cold fish, or chicken dishes. Got a picnic planned? Start chilling. (45 cases produced)

While tasting these wines fell short of a truly Damascene moment, my eyes, and my taste buds, have definitely been opened. I’ll probably retain my preference for traditional method sparkling wines, but I’ll be curious going forward to see who else has been able to create such delicious and delightful wines with this ancestral method. Pet-Nat producers, you’ve got your work cut out for you.

All wines are 11% abv and retail for approximately $35. Available in MD, DC, VA, MA, CA. They’ll also be available in NY, NJ, PA, NC and SC by June.

So, with an eye on the approaching warmer temps, I thought I’d round up some tasting notes, some recent, some not so, and take a look at an exploding sector of the beverage industry: canned wine.

If you’re not already aware of canned wine, you should probably start paying attention. To say that this new kid on the block is turning heads and gaining fans would be an understatement.

Wine drinkers near and far have spoken and they seem to be very much in favor of this new packaging. In early 2017, Neilsen reported that in the previous year sales of canned wine had surged from $6.4 million to $14.5, a meteoric growth of 125 percent. The same report showed that overall canned wine sales soared 170 percent that year. Boxed wines showed a modest 6 percent growth during the same period. (Wine Industry Advisor February 2017)

What’s driving this amazing growth, and who are the drivers? In an interview with CNBC’s On The Money last fall, Food & Wine magazine’s executive wine editor, Ray Isle, noted that the popularity of canned wine is a rising surge that shows no sign of stopping anytime soon. Isle said that millennials are the target demographic and they are not disappointing the market.

“It addresses an audience that wants convenience in a way that bottles don’t allow,” he said. By using a tin container, you can take wine “anywhere you can’t bring glass, like the beach, camping, hiking, or sports events.”

Isle added that the canned wine trend is environmentally sound. “Ecologically, it’s friendlier. It’s more recyclable. Lower carbon footprint because it’s much lighter to ship than glass.” (CNBC.com September 2017)

After reading this I started to wonder if maybe I wasn’t a millennial, too. I like stuff like eco-friendly, convenience, ease (big fan of ease, just ask my family), smart business practices. I mean, what’s not to like?

Well, in too many cases, at least as far as I can tell, what’s not to like is what’s in the can.

Last week a friend asked my opinion on canned wines and I suggested he check out my blog. I knew I had tasted a few samples a year or more ago and the review would be a good place to start. Trouble is, I never wrote up my notes. There was no post on those wines. This was actually a good thing as it gave me an excuse to taste some more cans and hone my thoughts of this new-fangled genre.

My recent tasting wasn’t as positive as the 2016 attempt. Maybe because this time around I didn’t let the wine out of the can so it could play in a nice big glass. I figured that ran counter to the whole purpose of the can: no need for glasses. Maybe I was just in a biochemical funk and nothing would have tasted acceptable that day. No matter what the reason, the wines were beyond disappointing.

In 2016 I tasted wines from Underwood in Oregon, part of the Union Wine Co., their non-vintage pinot gris and pinot noir, which came in 375 ml cans. I also tasted offerings from Alloy Wines on California’s Central Coast, the 2014 chardonnay, 2014 pinot noir, and the 2013 cabernet sauvignon, all in 500 ml cans. (A standard bottle of wine is 750 ml.) First taste was can-only, then I tried the wine in a standard Bordeaux stem. Here are my largely unedited notes.

Underwood
Pinot gris (13% abv)
First: acid and alcohol not in sync. Medium finish. Fruit stands in the background, not really knowing its place. Flavors – slight apple and citrus notes, medium-minus intensity. Second: Okay if all you drink is white wine. Not a lot there.

Rosé (12%) Grape N/A
First: bright red fruit, zero mid palate. Fruit is stemmy and rough. Medium minus finish. Alcohol not well integrated. Second: bright floral and red fruit aromas and flavors; berries (artificial boost?) dissipate into earthy notes. Flavors linger on short finish.

Pinot noir (13%)
First: Initial hit was “wow, this is pinot noir,” but that immediately devolved into rough earth notes, even a metallic sensation. Alcohol was pretty well integrated. Finish was pretty shallow. Second: attractive fruit aromas and flavors quickly change to earthy notes, almost a bit rough. The fruit fades the closer you get to the finish. Flavor does linger, more in the mouth than on the finish.

Alloy
2014 Chardonnay (14%)
First: impressive fruit typicity, but brief. Alcohol peeks around the corner then disappears again for a second. Finish is a bit rough but has decent length. Pleasant mouthfeel. Second: appealing fruit notes of apple and citrus/lemon; good soft mouth-feel, medium bodied, finish reveals just a hint of alcohol.

2014 Pinot noir (14%)
First: like the chardonnay, good typicity of fruit at first but there was a slight industrial note, like the grapes had been roughed up, or weren’t much to begin with. Wine is mostly balanced; alcohol is seamless. Seems to be what it’s supposed to be. Good mouth-feel; could be dangerous. Second: fruit is missing something; lacks concentration or intensity; empty in the middle, too. Good mouth-feel Wood tannins? Easy, brief finish.

2013 Cabernet sauvignon (14%)
First: faux oak elements rise, with the slightly aggressive alcohol almost immediately, right into the sinuses. Something’s disjointed right out of the box. Er, I mean, can. Second: same alcohol/oak sensation right up the back of the throat into the sinuses; has elements of a basic grocery store cab but seems to be the most disjointed of the three Alloy wines. Obvious cabernet notes but they are completely overshadowed by the odd structure, and lack of balance and focus.

Unlike my May 2016 tasting, the recent look-see sought to imitate “game” conditions, how the wine might behave in typical canned wine situations, whatever those are. In other words, out of the cooler, pop the top, and down the hatch.

The line-up comprised three wines from MANCAN, a Cleveland, Ohio, outfit making their wine in Sonoma with local fruit; a pair from Tangent Wines, another Central Coast producer; and then, at the last minute, three wines from Old Westminster Winery in Maryland. I had posted on social media how disappointed I was with my recent tasting, and Drew Baker, owner and winemaker at OWW, asked if he might join the party. He sent out samples immediately, and boy, am I glad he did. His wines blew everything else away.

The notes below reflect my intentionally casual approach this time around.

MANCAN
“Fizz” Chardonnay–Viognier blend (12.5%)
Carbonation – prickly and a bit gassy. Upfront it is fruity to the point of sweetness. Fades quickly through mid-palate. Short finish. Probably good for a quick buzz. Seems a bit disjointed. Not sure if you can drink more than a can.

“White Wine”  Still version of same blend (12.5%)
A bit metallic with a dusty stoniness. A mash-up of fruit and alcohol and then nothing. Unfortunately lacks any character, not that you should be expecting it from a can. Almost no acid, especially on the finish. A tolerable alcohol delivery system.

“Red Wine”  Zinfandel-Merlot blend (12.5%)
Bad even for jug wine. Tastes highly industrialized; wine made in a lab, not a winery. Even being chilled doesn’t really help.

As noted above, it’s likely that these wines might have shown differently if they had been poured into a glass. But isn’t the point of the can so you can drink it without a glass? And, just in case you’re wondering, I’m not comparing these wines to any other wines. These wines are not intended to compete with top shelf offerings from around the world. They are made to pop and pour. I look forward to the day when more canned wines make the popping and pouring a more inviting experience.

Tangent Wines
2016 Edna Valley sauvignon blanc Paragon Vineyard (13.5%)
Notes of lemon and grapefruit on the nose, bits of lime pith. Sweet tropical notes in the mouth, in front and in the mid palate. I can comfortably recommend this wine.

NV Rosé  Blend of albarino, viognier, pinot noir, grenache, syrah (12.9%)
Non-descript flavors. Something sort of wine-like. Slightly bitter. Red fruit, berries, medium acid. Short to medium finish. Okay.

My late entry wines, the cans from Old Westminster in Maryland, enjoyed the advantage of getting a second tasting in a glass. While this helped me get to know the wine a bit better, I can easily say that Drew Baker’s wines were top-notch while still in the can.

Old Westminster Winery
NV “Farmer Fizz” sparkling chardonnay (11.6%)
Slight grapey sweetness; prickly effervescence, good acid, finish is light and short. Later in the glass, fresh flowers/springtime; hint of lemon and green herbs, grapey sweetness. Grocery store chardonnay with light fizz. The least balanced of the three OWW samples, which isn’t much of a demerit. All three wines are appealing.

NV “Seeds and Skins” skin-contact pinot grigio (11.9%)
You need to pour this in a glass to really get your money’s worth, if only because it’s so pretty to look at. A charming, fascinating shade of pink. On the nose there are aromas of pink grapefruit and dusty stones. In the mouth you get flavors of lime and grapefruit pith, green apple, dusty stones, and a medium finish. Light bodied with plenty of mouth-watering acid. Simple but refreshing, very drinkable. Second tasting 20 minutes later: Real Wine! Skin contact imparts depth and complexity. Best canned wine I’ve tasted to date Yes!!

NV “Carbonic” cabernet franc (12.1%)
Right away you pick up typical carbonic aromas of banana and bubble gum but quite restrained. Just a teensy bit. In the mouth, plenty of soft tannins, medium bodied, and the finish is light but lingering. This is easily the most vinous example of any canned wine I’ve ever had. After my first taste I said out loud, “This is damn close to being a serious wine.” This is not just something to take to the beach or park by default. Much more like a wine you’d pick up in the early part of the week to go with easy meals like burgers, pizza, or tacos. Well made and balanced. Dusty and minerally finish. Wow.  Second tasting – bright red fruit and savory notes play very well together.

If there are canned wines that are better than Drew Bakers, I’d like to hear about them. Until then, this where the bar has been set for the genre. Alloy, MANCAN, Underwood, Tangent and all the others are going to have to raise their game.

Let me close with a slight curveball. Don’t let the above reviews that are less than glowing dissuade you from trying these various wines. I don’t say that because these were free samples and I feel an obligation to the producers. They’re not. Except for the Old Westminster, I paid for all the wines reviewed here. And even though Drew Baker’s wines were samples, I have no compunction, feel no constraint or pressure, about letting you know what I think.

So, find a shop that carries these wines, grab a mixed sampling, and head home and have some fun trying them out. Out of the can. Out of a Solo cup. Out of your best wine glass. Summer will be here before you know it. You need to have your roster in place before the weather warms up.