The Handyman Can!

It is officially Gutter cleaning time!

2015-12-01T13:29:00.005-06:00

Works on steps!

December 1st has arrived and that means official gutter cleaning time folks. The leaves have fallen, it's still not that cold at mid-day yet, so it's a perfect time of year to do this job.The gutters get cleaned, and the Christmas lights go up!
This is a yearly scheduled task at my house and it should be for you too! It gives me a specific time to take a look at that part of the house that very often gets overlooked.
Thats why instead of using all the newfangled tools on the market for gutter cleaning, I still opt for going up the ladder. I have purchased one new fangled ladder tool that is a godsend if you live on uneven ground though. The "Equalizer" for Werner ladders!

Works on uneven ground!

Yearly cleaning allows me to inspect the roof at the point where it normally developes problems. Its always at the edges where leaks start and rot sets in. I can catch it early this way way and make the fix myself instead of having to spend real money. Check your gutter spikes also, they may need knocked back in. It is easy to prevent any real clogs in your downspouts if they are inspected and cleaned on a yearly basis too.

This is also a good time to inspect the flashing and mortar on your chimney.

The Deck Check List!

2012-01-17T14:36:00.000-06:00

          A couple of times a year we hear in the news about a deck falling down. It seems to always happen during a party. The deck is loaded with people, every body's having a good time - boom.
          Summer will be here before you know it and you'll be out on your deck enjoying that nice spring weather. If your deck is over 10 years old we recommend you get a Deck Inspection. Depending on how long ago it was built, the standards may have changed quite a bit, we can give you all the up to date code requirements, and building techniques.
If it was built using improper, or inferior materials we can help you with any repair, or replacement recommendations. Is your deck framing materials the right size for the deck you have? Was the beam placed at the right distance from the ledger. Is the ledger attached correctly. Do you have the right size joists? These are all questions we can answer.
There are two main areas or ways of inspection: Visual and for Building standards.
         You need a visual inspection for items like split or decaying wood, loose attachments, rusted fastening systems, corroded fasteners, posts rotted at the ground connection, rotted railings, raised nail heads...
You will need a code inspection to make sure your deck meets all the residential building structure standards. Items like Ledger board attachment, post footings, double shear nailing hangers, correct size nails, Stair stringers, Lateral support in the joisting system, Guard rail heights, graspable handrails, handrail returns...
    Click this link for a through, detailed Deck Inspection, from Superior Services Deck and Fence! They will take pictures and provide a written detailed report with their recommendations.

Getting A Home Inspection!

2012-01-13T12:58:00.000-06:00

The first reason that comes to mind when I think of hiring a Home Inspector is to gain an edge from their knowledge. Armed with this knowledge of the property I am considering, it gives me a certain level of negotiating power in the deal and a good knowledge of my future property. Most people hire a Home Inspector to look at things they know nothing about. Some people hire them because their state laws, or mortgage lenders require them to. (We feel the government needs to get off the backs of the people. Useless regulations need to go away. But then we are strong independent minded Americans)

An Home Inspection can be a good tool.

If you have a good working knowledge of how a house is put together, and the operation of it's systems, then a home inspector is not for you. If on the other hand you are knowledge deficient in this area then you may want to hire one of these guys. Most of the websites I see for Home Inspectors try to sell on fear. You know - the "Hire me to inspect or you'll buy a house that will fall down in a year" types. I also love the ones about Radon, or Termites! The sky is falling, The sky is falling. I consider these guys the used car sales types and stay away. They may be good inspectors but the hard line sales is a turn off for me.

Make sure they are licensed and belong to one of the major national associations. ASHI - The American Society of Home Inspectors is probably the biggest one. Ask about his training and experience. Ask about his Ethics. Ask to see a copy of a recent inspection report. They may have a copy on their website for you to view. As far as price is concerned, remember the lowest price does not mean the worst inspector and the highest price does not mean the best inspector. There are many things to take into account when hiring some one to do a job. Price is one of them. However ensure he is competitive with his peers.
Lastly a home inspector is supposed to be able to gave an objective report on your home. How can he do that when he has a relationship with your Real Estate agent. Lots of Home Inspectors provide kick backs to Real Estate Agents - it's a fact. So who is he working for - you or the agent trying to make a sell. I don't know and neither do you. You want to ask both of them individually "Does he pay a referral fee for the Agents business? a kickback? If he does, then go out and hire one on your own. Also report him to his Professional Association ans possibly to his state licensing board. Interview them as you would anyone else. Make sure he understands he works for you and not any agent or any one else. In fact, try not to have the agent there when he inspects if possible.

Watch out for this guy!

Make sure and bring your coveralls and a flashlight on inspection day and be prepared to crawl under the house with him. You may not want to, but this is one time when you should have a good look at your home. If he's a good inspector you'll learn a ton of stuff. Ask about this in advance, if he doesn't want you to go around with him then don't hire him. He should be through, and talking and teaching you stuff about your prospective house and house systems the whole time.

Finishing With Tung Oil!

2012-01-08T16:04:00.002-06:00

We Recommend Water Lox!

Tung Oil is a unique product that gives a lustrous finish with depth and clarity. Really brings out the grain and character of the wood. We use anywhere from 5 to 8 coats. This sounds like overkill to people who are not familiar with wood finishing, but as I go through the details you will develope a better understanding. Primarily used by furniture finishers, it can be used on any high grade lumber such as Teak, Ipe, Oak, maple, Tiger Wood, Walnut, Cedar and many others. Tung oil is flexible it moves with the wood. Not quite as hard as laquer but it is very hard and it is much easier to repair than laquer. It is very easy to use and is basically fool proof.
As with applying any type of finish we recommend to sand using graduated grits up to at least 220 to ensure a smooth flat surface. Ensure the surfaces being finished are dust free. Vacuum, wipe with a tack cloth, then wipe down with your clean hands. Vacuuming your hands after every wipe.

Tung Oil Tree Nuts!

Tung Oil itself comes from the nut of the Tung tree and is obtained from the pressing of the nuts. It resists water better any other finish and does not darken with age like polyurethane does. Stain can added to some, Tung oil products, and others it cannot. If you want to color stain your piece of furniture or deck, make sure and read the label. Oil based stain must be used and it should be applied first before the finishing. You also would only mix the stain in the first coat of Tung Oil if you use the mix in method. The oil comes pure and mixed. Pure Tung Oil has the texture of Honey. It is normally sold as mixed which has been thinned with solvents. Tung oil can be thinned by as much as 50% if it is in original state. Use nitrile gloves when using any product with Petroleum products in it. If you buy a pre mixed type make sure you know how much it has been thinned already, so as not to over thin it. It is non toxic in it's natural state and is the finish of choice by pro chefs for cutting boards. It is perfectly safe. We recommend you thin or use a thinned product for the first and possibly second coat on any of the harder woods. Another trick is to apply one coat, brush out till almost dry or allow to sit for 10 minutes or so and soak in. Then the second coat can be sanded in. By this we mean apply a splatter of Tung Oil to a 220 grit piece of sand paper and sand it in to the surface of the item. Be sure to wipe clean and remove all the grit. If the wood seems to take the Tung Oil the first time, then no need to do this.

Liberon - Wood finishers Steel Wool!

Tung Oil can be applied by Rag, Sponge brush, Bristle brush, Lambs wool applicator, or spraying. For small objects we use a sponge brush. For floors we pour it out on the surface and spread with the Lambs Wool applicator, for decks and outdoor furniture we use an appropriately sized brush. After you have initially applied the product you can continue to brush it in as it is drying or just allow it to soak in for 10 minutes or so and then wipe off the excess with a dust free cloth as you would stain. Allow the proper drying time between coats. Expect to apply between 4 and 10 coats depending on the product and application.

          Repairing a Tung Oil finish!
          This my friends is the easiest thing in the world. If you get some scratches, or mars in your wood you repair it by rubbing the whole surface with 0000grit Steel wool and re-coating with one or two coats of Tung Oil.

          Refinishing your Tung Oil: Floor, Deck, or Furniture!
          That's just it - there is no real refinishing. Just rub your finish with a 0000 piece of steel wool, vacuum and wipe down very thoroughly, and apply another coat or two of Tung oil. Abracadabra!

Synthetic Deck Materials!

2012-01-03T14:36:00.002-06:00

Mold and Mildew on Composite Decking.

For some people synthetic decking is a brand new product, for others it is old hat. Composite decking is the original synthetic and is made with Wood and Plastic The wood is for strength and the Plastic is the filler/binder. In the manufacturing process the plastic is supposed to encapsulate the small wood pieces and therein lies the problem. The wood fibers will get exposed at the surface and that's where the mildew and mold starting getting in and destroying the product. There are 3 basic types. Starting with the oldest -

Capped Decking Board!

1. Original Composite Decking: Made from a combination of Plastic and Wood materials. After extensive testing we don't think it holds up all that well. You can tell it's the 1st generation product by the lighter flakes in the boards. It has below standard rating for fade resistance, and it is hard to keep clean. Grows mold and mildew that grows down into the board and is almost impossible to remove.It is the highest maintenance deck Board.

2. Capped Composite Decking: Has an exterior wear layer that covers the composite material inside. It is a little more expensive. It has wood grain pattern similar to what is on interior synthetic wood flooring.

3. PVC or Vinyl Decking: Fully Plastic Polymer Decking boards. This is the lowest maintenance product. It is also the most expensive material. Can come with an encapsulated covering or solid thru out, either way it is fully PVC, and contains no wood material to mold or mildew. These are the longest lasting, and lowest maintenance decking products. Doesn't scratch, doesn't mold, doesn't stain.

Solid PVC Deck Boards with hidden fastener installed.

Here are some good videos, you'll enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XZq-zMaKmo&feature=context&context=G222b86bFAAAAAAAAIAA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh67RGRPSec&feature=player_embedded#!

^%$# Squirrels in the Attic!

2011-12-29T15:07:00.001-06:00

I might have let them stay for a while if my wife didn't complain. But the fact is they had to go now before they had babies in the spring, and all hell would break loose. I guess the warm weather we've been having had them out of their nest and looking for trouble. They got in through a corner in a Dormer window. It's a little hole. I don't know how these fat squirrels can squeeze in but they do. The tree limbs are close to the roof again and need to be trimmed.

Anyway I'm trying a new technique I read about to try and get rid of them without hurting them. Strobe lights, they don't hurt their eyes or anything, the light is just a nuisance and they are supposed to leave. I bought 3 of them. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Next on the list is that bumping noise right under the floor here in my office where I type this. I don't think cats bump do they? Possum maybe, I don't want to think about anything else.

Strobe Lights!
http://www.eliminatorlightingdirect.com/Dyno_Strobe_Eliminator_Lighting_p/e-104_s.htm

Staining Composite Decking!

2011-12-21T17:56:00.000-06:00

When the composite decking manufacturers state that your deck is maintenance free, you were probably very pleased. They are truly great structures. Over time they all do in fact fade. The cheaper materials, even more quickly. This may not have an effect on you, if your deck is positioned so it weathers and fades all as one. But if you have an overhead and just the edge of your deck is exposed to the suns rays and you end up with 2 foot of your deck faded, it's not good. Depending on the manufacturer they are made from a combination of wood and plastic. Some are made from recycled materials. They are tough, very resistant to wear and tear, and becoming more popular and affordable. After a while like any color you may want to change it. Do a little planning and think about if you plan to change you house colors also.

We consider Sikkens
the Number 1 stain.
It's all we use on our
log cabin jobs.

Due to dirt, grease, grime, mold, and mildew it will have to be Professionally pressure washed. A Deck wash is the easiest way, but you can mix your own,
just add 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Then add in some house hold soap to make a good cleaning foam. We prefer Dawn - it really does cut grease. You can spray on with the pressure washer or use a broom or scrub brush to spread. Allow mixture to work on the surface for 10 or 15 minutes keeping the deck wet all the time. Pressure wash the deck and rinse. And rinse, and rinse. Ensure you do not allow the bleach or soap to dry on the deck and rinse it all off. Allow the deck to dry for a day before staining and allow to dry for at least 48 hours, rain free, after the staining. Make sure your stain is for use with Composite decks, not all of them are.

Wooster 4 inch Brush

The most important part of applying stain is to keep it stirred and mixed. Make sure that all the pigment stays mixed into the stain. Be vigilant in this! Solid color stains are recommended for composite decking. Acrylic Latex is the type of stain to use. Decks, and Porches take a beating from foot traffic, temperature, moisture, and the sun. It is important not to go cheap on the stain you buy. Another reason to buy the best products is that you won't have to do this as often. Remember every time you re-stain you must also pressure wash, and sometimes strip. So lets go with a quality long lasting product. Most cans say you can apply stain using either of 3 methods, the Spray rig, brush or roller. For decks, we use the brush method only. We use the big 4 incher, polyester of course. Watch for shiny spots, and brush them out. I like to start at the house and work outward. Work fast to prevent lap marks. That's part of the reason for the big brush. This is best done by a home owner on a cloudy day. A pro should be able to complete it on any day. Never paint yourself into a corner. Just apply one coat for decks. When complete, tape up the entrances so it cannot be walked on.

Notes: When using bleach around bushes, be sure to water the plants thoroughly before hand. They will soak up all the water they need prior to any bleach being used. This works like a charm, every time. Just rinse the bush itself, and its leaves, as you go.

Stains we use, like and recommend:

Sikkens:

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/products/sikkens/sikkens_MAIN.htm

Sherwin Williams - Deck Scapes:

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/products/shelf/exterior_paint_coatings/deck_products/finishes/

Home Depot - BHER:

http://www.behr.com/Behr/home#vgnextoid=b086f11390a59110VgnVCM1000006b0910acRCRD;channel=HEADER_NAV;view=13

Cabot Deck Stain:

http://www.cabotstain.com/

Now re staining your deck is a totally different system.........

Prep Work for Laying Tile!

2011-12-13T15:00:00.000-06:00

Backer board!

Tile is the answer for the high traffic areas of your home. Great for Entrance ways, Main hallways, and kitchens where you walk back and forth a lot. Also in bath rooms, where wood or or carpet is not acceptable.
The different areas that can be tiled require different techniques and materials. Here we'll discuss the floor.

Floor Leveling Compound!

First check your plywood sub floors, sand all the seams level, where the plywood sheets butt up to each other. If the floor is vinyl we can install the tile right over it. Next, inspect the floor for levelness. Using a 4 or 5 ft long level lay it flat on the floor. Mark any high or low areas where the floor is not level. For high areas make sure the sub floor is down tight to the joists. You may nail or screw it down tight. For the low areas you may need a leveling compound. Apply with a trowel or spackling or drywall knife. Compound may have to sanded.
Follow package directions.


Screwing down the Backerboard!

If you install your tile down on the wood floor it will crack due to the flexion of the wood. Therefore we need a put a crack isolation membrane on top of the wood to prevent this. There are several types made by numerous manufacturers. We use a cement based product covering a mesh membrane. Wonder board, or Durock, Rhino, Hardboard and Hardi backer board are a couple we use. It comes in many sizes and is easy to cut. Just mark your cut line with a straight edge and score it with a scoring knife. Clean the surface thoroughly, vacuum and wipe down with a sponge as needed. For a floor, thin set or a construction glue must be applied as an under layment adhesive for the backer board. Use the 1/4 square inch trowel for spreading the thin set for this application. The notches control how much thin set you apply. Sometimes non professionals, just apply the backer board to the floor itself, but a thin coat, of thin set should be applied first. Thin set should be mixed thinner than it would be for setting the tiles. When spreading your thin set hold your trowel at about a 45 Degree angle to the surface. You attach the backer board using 1 1/4 inch self drilling corrosion screws or 1 1/4 corrosion resistant roofing nails. We prefer the screws. Lay the backer board in the opposite the direction that the plywood was installed. Install in a staggered pattern so as not to have any four corners touching. Install them using a 1/4 gap around the walls and the cabinet bases. The size of the gap sometimes varies between manufactures. We use the proper screws and set them every 6 inches around the edges, and every 8 inches in the middle, from side to side top to bottom. Install the screws or nails 1/2 back from all edges, and flush to the surface. Use 2 inch wide alkali resistant mesh tape, to tape the seams of the backer boards. Seal this with a thin coat of thin set overlapping the tape by at least 1 inch on each side. You are ready to Tile.

Scoring Tool for Backer Board.

This is what Construction is all about Guys!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAMUaOPYico&feature=related