THE HARD WAY HOME

So What Does Happen...

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Sat, 12 Mar 2011 14:29:00 +0000

.............the 28th of February passed a few weeks back which marked 2 years since I rode the last few kilometres of The Hard Way Home and which also resulted in the final entry in the blog that was followed by so many of you, now some of you do know what the past two years have held for me but I have received quite a few emails over this time asking 'hey Robbo what the hell are you up to now?'

So with another small repeat of an adventure about to begin what better time to let the curious know what does happen when you find yourself waking up in a bed with no where to go that day, a fridge to go to, a toilet to flush and a nice hot regular shower, argh the simple things in life!

I had heard from many of the other over landers that I'd met along the way that once they got home it was hard to adjust, hard to get back into the routine and as I got closer to the finish line I wondered how it would be for me, sure enough I soon understood what they were talking about-it was my turn, my turn to 'fit back in'. It took time to get used to the way of life that I'd been out of for so long but one thing was for sure I never wanted to sleep in another tent again but I found myself I longing to be back out there somewhere on an adventure, I think I spent a lot of the first few months day dreaming of far away places, I missed it, I missed some of the friends I met and to be honest I still do but the idea of living in a tent still does not sound to entertaining......so much so that 2 years on I am yet to unpack my roll bag!

So I spent the first 6 months on the farm helping out my brother in law put the crops in, got myself a WR450 for a bit of fun, not really a lot to do in the Mallee but it does offer some pretty fine dirt bike riding, also pulled on the footy boots for a season with the local club, which resulted in about half a dozen games before getting K.O'd senseless, then coming back to go on undefeated for the year only to loose the grand final by a point, the boots are hung back where they should be.

The 6 or so months at home was great to spend with the family but my feet where itchy and it was time to get out and about again, fortunately a job took me away over to Western Australia for 12 months and now I'm back in the Victorian Bass Straight building oil rigs in Bass Straight.

So its been interesting to say the least, I would not have it any other way, which brings me to my next adventure, no its not the Dakar but again just for the fun of it in 2 weeks I am off to the United Arab Emirates to compete in the Desert Challenge which starts on April 1st, so if you want to follow my days as I race across the desert it will all be live at http://www.abudhabidesertchallenge.com/
This time I'll be aboard a KTM, fingers crossed it gets me to the end like my Honda did last time.

So wish me luck!

Also in the pipe line there is a small challenge been born involving a mad mate from Belgium(Dirk), a very old Citroen C2 and a journey from Antwerp to Vladivostok.....I guess some habits never die!

Day 899, The Last

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 06:04:00 +0000

The day that I had been riding toward for so long final came, the finish line on the farm in the Mallee. This day I had imagined on several occasions since leaving South Africa over a year and a half ago, I would imagine the final turns the final track up to the house, recognizing things I could remember, who would be there waiting at the end, the end of an epic journey half way across the world that would be completed on a farm in the middle of the sticks.

My home state and final border, Victoria.

Yes there is such a town name, "Speed"

As I left Adelaide it was all a bit surreal, this was it the last day, the last time to pack the bike up, to find somewhere to stay, to not have to go anywhere tomorrow, quite simple really, all those days of traveling, on the move, seeing amazing places, new adventures, they would end on this one day. Thankfully the weather turned it on for me, cool breeze with clear skies as the last 420 k’s clicked away under the wheels. I made it to the tiny town of Speed and there on the post was a sign, “Welcome Home Robbo, only 8 k’s to go”, reading this really made it a reality, only 8 k’s to go I had made it, the bike had made it. Then it was the last 4 k’s up the dirt track to the farm, I screwed the throttle and headed the mother ship down the track, I rounded the final bend and there waiting under a Finish Line Banner was quite a crowd, everyone clapped and waved as I rode past, it was a great feeling, under the Finish Line I rode and parked the trusty steed for the last time and there waiting for me was my mum and sister with her family which I have not seen for over 5 years, it was great to be home.

One of few signs bringing me home.

Roberts road, the last few K's.

Rounding the last bend.

Coming up the drive way.

Waving to the crowd, my last few metres.

Amongst the crowd of about 90 there where old friends, family and other travelers I had met on the road, it was great to catch up and we all spent the afternoon catching up on old times and exchanging stories over a few well deserved cold ones!

Dirk waiting beneath the Finish Line.

So that was it, I had made it, when I departed London 899 days ago on the 16th of September 2006 with Amy I never had a clue what was to come, how it would be, how far I would get, well now I know, I conquered what I dreamt of, riding a motorbike all the way, yes it took 3 different bikes to cover the 102 991 k’s, one been stolen and then the Chinese Sunik to make the 7000 k journey from Mongolia to Bangkok before reuniting with the mother ship. The adventures are endless, the list of new and amazing friends, the wonderful experiences, things I would not swap for anything.

One very happy mum.

In short this is how it happened, from London it was through Europe then head first into Africa, where I watched Amy develop into the most incredible motor bike rider I have ever seen, remember Amy had never ridden a motor bike in her life except for a scooter and here she was taking on the desert sea of the Sahara. Central Africa bought some testing times with drunken soldiers forever wanting bribes and on several occasions staring down a barrel and finally onto South Africa where we parted company and I went alone. East Africa saw me mix it with some amazing tribes and meeting more amazing Over Landers from all walks of life and different countries, another bout of malaria in Ethiopia, the first been back in Angola. After 14 months I made it out of Africa and entered the Arabian Peninsular into Yemen, a new continent bought a new world with new adventure but I never expected the ultimate hurdle having the mother ship stolen.

Eventually after 4 months I was on the road again north to Russia through central Asia where I had the pleasure of meeting the wild man from Belgium, Dirk. Together we traveled across Mongolia, raced across China aboard the 150 cc Suniks, watching them vibrate and fall apart around us, all the way to Bangkok, what a wild and crazy adventure we had together. At this point I returned to Dubai for the UAE desert Challenge just to give it a shot, manged 2nd in class, 11th in the world, so a new dream was born, to compete the Dakar.

Back to Bangkok and south through South East Asia, been so close and wanting to just get to Australia I crossed Indonesia as quickly as I could, this still took almost 6 weeks, windy roads and millions of people making the going slow. Once on home soil in Darwin it took a leisurely 4 weeks to reach the end. What a journey!

What’s next for me? What does one do after been free for so long, I will relax for a few weeks then start the dreaded hunt for a job and begin the next part of my life, all I know is I need to keep it as interesting as possible because anything less for the time been will be not enough, already I am looking toward my next dream, to start racing motor bikes and ultimately to race in the Dakar in South America it will happen so watch this space, after all that’s what life is all about following your dreams and making as many come true as possible.

I have a few requests from different groups, including some schools to give a talk so if anybody is interested in hearing a few tales to your group then don't hesitate to get in touch via email.

Thanks everybody for all your support, it was welcomed weather I was having a blast or facing a challenge, like you have enjoyed reading the journey I have enjoyed reading your comments. I can say that there will be more in the future and another adventure to follow so see you then.

And remeber

“In the end it will be alright and if its not alright its not the end”.

Meat Pies and Blow Flies

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 04:37:00 +0000

I had a week relaxing in Darwin and soaking up all things Australian. I have felt like a foreigner in my own country, to see drive through Bottle shops, Holden utes with dogs in the back, to hear the Aussie slang as thick as the amounts of vegemite I was spreading on my toast, it was sure strange to be back after 5 years. I also got to appear on the Northern Territory ABC radio talk show for hour, I do have a face for radio!!

Eventually I set off south down the Stuart highway, it had to rain just to remind me I was not out of the tropics yet, it added for some interesting riding as in a few spots along the way there had been so much rain that it was flowing deep and fast across the main highway, there were several cars that could not even go through but the trusty mother ship sailed through no problems forming a huge bow wake.

The rivers of water across the Stuart Highway.

In no time I reached Alice on the long straight roads I remember longing for in Indonesia. I was joined by my mate I worked with in the UK, Al in his 4WD, we explored kings Canyon and swam in the remote desert waterholes along the Mc Donald Ranges before looping back around to The Alice for a taste of the night life, interesting to say the least!

The road trains that snake along the long straight roads of Outback Australia. Now that's a truck!

Then it was further south again, dirt all the way to Port Augusta, we headed off toward the Simpson Desert following the Finke track, this gave me a chance to look at the terrain on which I hope to race in the future The Finke Desert Race, looks like fun just need a sponsor now!

Just in case I had forgot!

With the Simpson desert closed we only visited the edge, Dalhousie Spring, a hot oasis in the heart of Australia, although there were no other travelers out there we were not alone we had the company of a couple of million flies, wow I could not believe it, ever since arriving in the red centre we were almost carried away every time we stopped, I thought this was one thing the glossy travel brochures don’t advertise, come see the red centre and the millions of flies, I have never had them anywhere in the world like in the Northern Territory.

I took a very similar photo in the desert in Kenya, except its called the red centre here for a reason, amazing colors.

Young Aboriginal boy in the community of Finke.

Aboriginal kids lining up as Al hands out a few lollies, more reminders of Africa.

Color coordinated!

A border crossing with a difference, no customs, no craziness, just a sign in the middle of the desert.

Dalhousie hot Spring, an amazing Oasis.

I guess the heat out there makes people have strange ideas, a pink roadhouse!

What its only 15340 k's to London, I must have made a wrong turn somewhere, took me over 100 000 to get here!

As I followed the lonely desert road I still had to remind myself I was in Oz, the GPS read 730 k’s to the finish line, here I was now traveled over 100 000 and only 700 from the end, I wondered what it will be like not having to ride anywhere everyday, not set up my tent, check the oil level, cross a border, dodge crazy drivers which I must say the roads seem empty in Australia and what people you do pass they wave just to break the boredom of the endless roads. This emptiness was what I had dreamt of, the stars at night are simply stunning, the sunsets beautiful and the quietness of it all and what else have I enjoyed, of course a few meat pies!

Al enjoying a chicken parmy and cold beer in the famous William Creek hotel, yes they are knickers hanging from the ceiling!

G'Day Mate

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Mon, 02 Feb 2009 03:27:00 +0000

With talk like that it can only mean one thing, the Kathryn Bay docked at Darwin on the 31st of January, 5 years, 1 month and about 20 days since I left Australia.

The journey over was great it was nice to relax in comfort, listening to Captain Pedro’s stories of sailing the world and eating great food cooked up by Emanuel the cook. We did arrive on the 30th but since we were early the Kathryn Bay had to anchor in Darwin Harbor for 24 hours until it had its turn on the wharf, so for a whole day I could see Darwin city out my window only a short distance away, for once I felt patient, what was one more day after some of the waits I have experienced, besides I already felt home.

So there I was in Darwin, seeing all things Australian, holden utes, drive through bottle shops, empty streets, it was a welcome relief to where I had come from. I went to stay with a Benno, a mate I have not seen in over 10 years, it was off to the pub for a few celebratory drinks and a catch up on old times, joined by another mate from the Mallee, Burnsy, I actually felt foreign in my own country, it felt strange but with three mates in a pub, Robbo, Benno and Burnsy, I could be in only one place in the world, Australia.

So now has begun the tedious task of clearing the stead through Customs and Quaratine, I will have it I hope by Thursday and then it’s the last leg south.

For those of you interested I have set an arrival date of the 28th of February, I will arrive at the farm at 1.30pm after a BBQ lunch so everyone is invited to be there and see the last metres of my journey come to an end, the more the merrier hope to see old and new friends there.

Hoist the anchor

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Mon, 02 Feb 2009 02:39:00 +0000

Three years ago before this trip began I had the pleasure in meeting Mrs. Perkins in the UK, yes the same as Perkins shipping, it is this lady who said the quote that I have in my title “a wise lady once said……” So I wrote Mrs. Perkins a letter asking for special permission to get a birth aboard the vessel that would take my bike from Dili to Darwin, unfortunately company policy did not allow this which I understood. But that was three years ago and now here I was in Dili with permission to take the ship.

The MV Kathryn Bay.

As I made it back to the port I saw the Kathryn Bay docked and off loading containers, this was my ride, it was huge, a far cry from the wooden Dhow I took across the red sea to Yemen with a crew of a few men, a sheep, a goat and a squat loo straight into the ocean! I approached a guy with the Perkins insignia on his uniform and said Hello, his reply was, “welcome Allan Roberts come aboard we have been expecting you”. As I stepped off the dock just like that I had left behind the madness that I had known for so long, the madness I have loved and at times loathed but steeping onto this ship was for me stepping onto Australian soil, for me it was 5 star, extremely clean, Captain Pedro and his crew, all from the Philippines made me feel very welcome and I was showed to my room, wow, it was two rooms, en suite, hot shower, air con, this was amazing, I needed the shower as I was dirty sweaty and tired. After freshening up I was then invited to the mess for dinner with Captain Pedro, I had yet to eat all day, it was delectable.

Captain Pedro in the bridge.

What a way this would be to arrive to Australia, in luxury aboard a container ship. My dream was never to have to fly any part of the journey and to ride a bike the whole way, well I did not fly but the mother ship did from Ulaan Batar to Bangkok but I crossed on the 150 cc Sunik and now this, I am on the same ship as my bike, I did it, I achieved what I set out to do, overland on a bike from London to Australia via Cape Town.

I think the green container has the precious cargo inside.

But like I said in a previous post I am not there yet, I still have 3000 k’s to cover before the final flag drops.

No dily daly in Dili

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Sun, 01 Feb 2009 03:16:00 +0000

I rode into Dili, into a place full of UN cars, some troops with rifles, mad one way streets, and a police presents second to none, it was a different Timor than the rural road I just covered, it seemed weird to me. And expensive, another traveler I met who had just arrived from Australia said Dili is more expensive than Australia, the countries currency is the US dollar, shame it was not bloody Rupiah as I had a truck load of them!!

Wednesday morning arrived, this would be my last day on foreign soil and of course it had to be one of the craziest, of extreme lows and extreme highs. I woke early, so I thought, I was still on Indo time and Timor was an hour ahead so I lost an hour straight away but did not discover this until later. I had to first go to the shipping agent for Perkins to sort out what needed to be done to get my bike on the boat. Also at the backpacker were 2 German lads shipping their bikes as well, they had already been washing their bikes for a day and still had not finished, one of them asked if he could come to the agent with me, so he jumped on the back, we set off and instantly we were pulled over by a cop, as they are just everywhere, what now I thought I have no time!

Then the German guy says to me “I have no helmet” as if he knew that he was meant to have one, argh shit here we go, the cop spoke no English so asked me to follow him to the station, I quickly told the German to get off I will go alone, I did not want to ride into a police station with him on the back wearing no helmet, that would just look even worse. So here I was at the police station, forever looking at the time on my phone, hoping it would not take long. Wrong I was, an officer came into the room and told me that all passengers need a helmet, fair enough I said, very sorry for the mistake now can I pay the fine and go, nothing is ever that simple Robbo! They then had to fill out forms, asking for my license which I produced, then my bike papers which I produced, another problem, they wanted to see my Timor registration papers for the bike, I told him that I was a tourist and that I am just passing through and showed him where customs had stamped the bike in, he could not understand any of this. Now he wanted to fine me for no papers and no helmet of the passenger, this was getting out of hand. I quickly produced my import approval papers for Australia and said “I need to get that bike out there on a ship today its going to Australia”. Eventually he started to see the light of day and agreed to only fine me for the helmet issue of my passenger. Besides it was not me paying, my German friend was getting this bill. So now I had to follow a cop on his bike to another office across town to pay the fine, at this point I question weather the office was open as by my clock it was only just past 7, of course its open they replied pointing to the clock on the wall, it said just after 8, shit I lost an hour just like that and as it stood I had no time! Off to pay the fine, it was 9 dollars, but the system was down and they told me to come back later in the afternoon, I could not but I had to pay the fine as the police were holding my documents and until I produced a receipt I would not get them back, so frustrating. I even tried to give them 10 dollars and let the cop be my witness that I paid the fine and then I go collect my papers, nope they could not see that working, time was passing. They eventually understood my anxious plight and after a discussion they turned with huge grins and said no pay, you can go, my god this was getting crazy now, all this time and to be told I can go, so back to the cop station to explain to them I did not have to pay and collect my papers, they understood and made me sign a declaration saying that the offence happened, I signed it and then got a police escort to the agents office, arriving 2 hours after I first set out, well for me it was 3 as I lost an hour!!

I got the paper work sorted, I needed to have the bike clean by at least 3pm and then get it in the container as the ship was leaving that night. As I went back to my bike the cop was still waiting there, hmm what now I thought, he explained I owed now 20 dollars for the declaration and had to go back to the station, nope this was not an option, I had 4 hours to wash a bike that usually takes 2 days, now weather this 20 dollar fee was for real or not I did not care, it was the German’s money, I gave him the 20 and said I am sorry but I have to go and rode off. What a hectic start to my 2nd and last day in Timor.

I washed and washed, always finding new spots to clean, also there the German’s frantically washed there bikes, I collected my 20 dollars after telling him the story. Eventually I reached the point that I thought would do, the stead was glowing, I just hoped good enough for Aussie regulations. I left the Germans still cleaning their bikes at three, went to the Port, got my customs stamp and immigration stamp out of East Timor, why immigration you ask, I will explain later, then back to the agent with everything in order. I followed a man then to the container yard and road the mother Ship into a container, strapped it down and then got a lift back to the port in a truck, it is at the point that the highs began to happen.

The mother ship ready for its voyage.

At Last!

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Sun, 01 Feb 2009 02:54:00 +0000

Finally I got word, the ferry was to start up again, although I was still skeptical and would only know when I was actually on it, so the night before it was due to leave I camped out at the ferry terminal yet again eagerly awaiting its arrival, come morning there it was docked at the wharf, what a joyous sight, so began a very busy next few days. The ferry from Ende to Kupang saw my final ferry ride, Indonesia has just been one ferry ride after another, this one was not bad, the ferry was empty and the ocean as smooth as silk, but the Indonesians love playing there pop music at maximum volume to a crowd of sleeping people, can’t figure that one out.

What a great sight this was.

I arrived at 1 in the morning, quickly I rode the steed off and found a small bit of land in the shadows of the night to pitch my tent, accompanied by a few pigs and goats rummaging for food, it was not long and I was packed up again at 6am and on my way to find custom to attempt in getting my 1000 US dollar bond back I paid entering the country with the bike. After finding Customs I explained the story to their confused faces, then I rang Bernard the Customs guy back in Belawan to explain to them over the phone, it worked but there was nothing they could do, I had to go onto the border town of Atapupu and get it there, I questioned weather they would have that much money there, they assured me they would. Time was not on my side unless I felt like spending a few weeks in Dili, there was a Perkins ship leaving on Thursday, it was now Tuesday and I had to ride to East Timor, reach Dili, sort out the shipping and also wash my bike, now when I mean wash my bike I mean make it look like it just came off the show room, Australian Quarantine are extremely strict and my bike has to be clean enough to eat my dinner off, it took Dirk 2 days to get his old lady clean, so yes time was not on my side.

Kids with home made toys at ferry terminal.

I set off across the last bit of Indonesia and reached Atapupu by midday, the customs guys could not believe how little time it took me to cover the distance from Kupang, I was moving!! So basically I had to go over the whole story again and ring Bernard from Belawan again to explain it all. I could get my money back but the bank was in a town 30 k’s back and if I wanted US dollars it might take 2 days to obtain or the other option was to take it in Rupiah, hmm I guess it was Rupiah for me, so after some discussion about the rate and the ‘fee’ I had to pay for the express paperwork I got a wad of 11 million Rupiah, 975 US dollars back, I was happy enough, I just had to go. Of course all this took 3 hours to happen but I managed to get across the border before the 4 o’clock closing time.

The friendly customs guys at the Indo/Timor border.

Instantly I could see East Timor was a poorer country or at least the infrastructure has been slowed by its rocky past, the roads were in a bad way, a lot of gutted houses and people living in shacks with straw roofs, I liked it and the people seemed very friendly with huge grins and waves as I rode by. The road snaked along the coast and it was quite beautiful, then it hit me, this was it I had made it to the last country before Australia, I could not believe it, I started grinning in my helmet, I punched a fist into the air, a sense of achievement came over me, I felt I had done it, I even gave the tank a quick pat and told the ever trusty mother ship “well done girl, you got me here, what a machine”. So making the most of my last moments I waved to as many people as I could, it was like they were cheering me on to the line, they had no clue where I had come from.

Of course I am not home yet.

Still I wait

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 15:36:00 +0000

I wait, with still no word of a ferry. I have received many words of encouragement from many different people which I appreciate so much and some of you have suggested if I pass through certain areas let them know, I would actually like to do a lap around Australia just to visit everyone of you but I would need another year, but I need a rest and the wallet is almost spent so just to give you all an idea this is my planned route through Australia.

Once arriving in Darwin I will then head south to Alice Springs where I will meet up with a mate of mine, then head out to Ayres Rock for a photo or two with the Mother ship and big red rock and since the Simpson desert is closed we will then head down the Oodnadatta track, yes for you non Aussies that is a word, south through the outback to Adelaide which from there is only a 4 hour ride to the finish line in Victoria. So no Sydney, Melbourne or Perth it’s straight down the middle for me.

But first I have a boat to catch, the island of Timor to cross and again another boat to Darwin before any of the above plan starts.

Deja Vu

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:47:00 +0000

My current situation is almost a year ago to the day when I was waiting in Djibouti for the Yemen visa and then the boat, but this time around it seems worse as I am so close to home, its only 1000 k’s in a straight line to Darwin but right now it looks like at least 3 weeks before I will even set eyes on my home land.

A picture of despair, this is Monday morning, there should be people everywhere and a very large ferry docked...but nothing!

Monday came and went, the day the ferry is meant to leave for Kupang, Timor, I was so desperate that against what everyone had told me I woke at 6am and rode the 10 k’s to the ferry terminal just to make sure that it did not arrive in the night, of course it was not there but I just had to see for myself. After running around all Ende trying to get an answer and making phone calls to every number I could find I have found out that there will be no ferries this week and next week, beyond that they are unsure, the seas are just too rough at this time of the year. So for me it’s a very frustrating situation, stuck in a non desirable place with nothing to do at all, it sure does sound like Djibouti all over again. I have even been to the port to find a local fisherman and pay him a considerable sum to take me the 280 k’s across the ocean to Kupang but no one is up for it, the seas must be bad, so all I can do is wait.

Almost an Alien!

This seems like a real test of my patience which at the moment is running very thin, with yet another stone thrower that actually got me, I think the last attention seeker to do that was back in Mongolia, the constant calling out from the people everywhere you walk or ride and even now they have started to yell, F*@K YOU, I am not even sure they know what it means but they seem to get a kick out of it, all their efforts to get my attention go unanswered, I feel tired but its all just heightened due to the fact that again I am so so close to Australia, I have been away from Australia for over 5 years, what’s another 3-4 weeks…nothing I guess!

Always an admirer.

Nice pannier system...buckets!

Amongst the anxious waiting there is still some amazing things on offer, I took a ride to a place called Kelimutu, its another volcano but this one is full of water and the minerals within the holes of the volcano's cone transform the water into different colors as they dissolve, two complete different colors, dark almost black and the other turquoise, it was very beautiful, and I had the place to myself, was a very nice escape from the constant banter that goes on in the towns.

Kelimutu, the dark and turquoise water.

So close together but so different.

Not there yet

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Sat, 17 Jan 2009 03:04:00 +0000

I have left the hectic traffic of the Indonesia I first discovered, after leaving the island of Bali, I arrived to Lombok, still with a touch of tourism and busy streets but then after Lombok it was onto Sumbawa, the ferry ride was only 2 hours but it was like the ride took me back 10 years, what a difference, the roads were empty, the infrastructure seemed a lot less and the way of life was so much more relaxing, it was a welcome change. Even at a slow pace I covered the length of the island in no time and with no dramas. Then it was the long ferry to Flores, I arrived at the port in the late afternoon only to be told the seas where to rough so the ferry would not depart until 4am the following day, it was meant to leave at 6 that afternoon, so it meant a long wait at the port for me. The ferry did leave at 4am and for the next 9 hours I put up with loud talking Indonesia, they think they have to scream to be heard, a few small children amongst the crowd who thought it be a test to cry and scream the entire journey and about 20 boxes full 100’s of chickens that the combined chirping was like some kind of torture, I was glad to get of that boat, the longest is yet to come, Flores to Timor, 18 hours, I just can’t wait!!

The Mother Ship aboard a ferry.

Once in Flores it was of to find the dragons, the Komodo Dragons, Given the name due to the island they inhabit, Komodo Island but instead I went to Rinca island where I was told is a lot better to see the dragons, I understand why they are called what they are as ‘Rinca Dragon’ just does not have the same ring to it. Another boat journey for 2 and half hours to the island, paid a fortune to get into the park only to be told, after payment of course, that it’s the wrong time of year to find them, fortunately I did see them, well two and one was quite a size, just like an over seized Australian Goanna actually, docile looking buggers but I did not want to be on the receiving end of its claws or jaws so I kept my distance.

Lazy Lizards

Not exactley a fire breathing dragon, the lizard that is not me!

So with the Dragons spotted it was time to head toward Ende, the final Port on Flores where I will catch the last ferry to the Indonesian side of Timor. Flores is beautiful, again like Sumbawa, a bit back in time, the kids are waving like back in Laos and people are friendly. Also they way they look has changed, becoming more like what we recognize the look of people from Papua New Guinea.

I arrived, in the rain of course, to the Ende port just to confirm the once a week ferry will leave on Monday, the port was dead but I found one guy washing his clothes under a tap, in very broken English he explained yes Monday, after he pointed to the calendar I showed him on my mobile phone but then he said Monday No, and then made waving motions with his hands and blowing noises with his mouth, I figured out the seas where to rough by his gestures, hmm, this is not good, I asked when then?? He pointed to the following Monday on the calendar, Argh shit that was not what I wanted to hear, one more ferry and I might have to wait a week for it. I know it’s only a week out of what the 120 or so I have already done, but I just had my sights set on getting to Dili, and arriving in Darwin.

Well its not 100 percent yet but I will know Monday morning, I will either be on a boat or be in Ende for a week more.

The final push

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Sat, 10 Jan 2009 12:25:00 +0000

Tomorrow I will hit the road again for the last time before hitting home soil. I have been here in Bali for just over a week and its time to leave as my feet are itchy. It was not your typical stay in Bali that a large majority of people are here for, I spent it relaxing and eating nice food although on one occasion I headed out with my English mate Jeremy that I met first at Lake Toba then again for New Years in Yogyakarta. It was a strange mix of disco bright lights, loud music and loads of young travellers acting in non human ways, all quite a laugh really, I think my party days are over but all the same it was very entertaining. The next day which was today saw Jeremy and I partake in the other religious activity here in Bali, surfing, all I can say is we will not be lining up to the Billabong classic just yet or in the next few life times for that matter!

As nice as the rest has been it will be nice to leave behind the sun glass sellers, the offers of a taxi every 3 metres you walk, a massage, a T-shirt, you name it it is offered, the most interesting of all was Ephedrine, up there with the hand held tazers, I guess if you get hit by a tazer gun you may need some ephedrine to kick start the heart, I understand now, they go hand in hand!

I have just over a week to make Ende where I will catch a ferry to Kupang, the last of the Indo island, the ferry only leaves once a week, the next is the 19th so that should put me in East Timor a few days later sorting out the boat to Oz, so Darwin around the 28th of January.

So my next update should come from Dili as I wait for my 59th and final border crossing, that's one thing I will not miss border crossings!

Bali

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Mon, 05 Jan 2009 08:03:00 +0000

I made it to Bali 17 days after entering the country, I think the mother ship is like a horse, once it has its head turned for home there is no stopping it. Bali for me is where it all began, my first overseas trip 11 years ago with two mates and I seem to not have stopped ever since and Bali is still the same, I can see why I visited when I was 19 its full of young people all here for a bit of fun, hmm do I feel old, not at all, I too was like that once, I seem a little different now and not just the amount of hair I have or there lack of! And of course a lot of Aussie tourist, its almost like the transition period back into Australia for me, I have never heard so many Aussie accents in such a long time….is that what I sound like!

Some funny things you see, check out the two in the right hand corner!

Well the chaotic traffic of Java improved as I went and should only continue the trend now as I island hope to East Timor. The ride was enjoyable skirting the flanks of the many Volcanoes scattered across Java. The most impressive for me was Bromo, an active volcano spewing gas day and night, I got to ride across the lava plains and even one night I spent camped at the base of it, with volcanoes Bromo and Batuk as my back drop, but I was a little close I think as when I woke in the morning my tent was covered in white like ash stuff. And then once I hit Bali I see there has been some earth quakes reported here in Indonesia, where I don’t know but here I was sleeping next to a Volcano!

Doing some off road around the Volcanoes.

Bromo bellowing smoke in the background, parked on a lava plain.

Home for the night, Batuk to the right and Bromo to the left.

Indonesia is such a vast contrast to its neighbor, my home Australia. Since leaving London I have traveled from one country to another and besides going from Spain to Morocco you don’t really see a dramatic change, slight changes, perhaps in religion, food but its always been a slow change of culture and the way the people look but here I am in one of the most densely populated countries on earth, mostly Islamic, Asian looking and hardly a steak to be found and right across the water is completely the opposite, thank god for the good steak part, I think it will be a shock to the system but one I will welcome, except perhaps the price of fuel, I am paying 50 cents a litre right now here in Indo and in Oz will be more than double that I think!

I have received confirmation that I have right to import the mother ship into Australia so that's it, almost all the logistical hurdles are over come, just need to try to get back my 1000 US from the Indonesian Custom authorities, stranger things have happened. So after a rest here in Bali for a few days I am sure I will be eager to make the last leg to Dili, I have the islands of Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores and Timor to go and then after the mother ship is on Perkins shipping its a very short 1 hour and a half flight from Dili to Darwin and just like that I will be there. All so long as the ever so trusty stead continues on, its tired, its started to burn oil, a lot more than I like and the rectifier problem which has haunted me on several occasions has decided to rear its ugly head again but with a bit of patch work I have made it to just go a little further, only about 6000 k's is all I ask, fingers crossed.

I remember doing this on the beaches of Normandy, France, so long ago.

Crazy Times in Java

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Mon, 05 Jan 2009 04:05:00 +0000

And I thought the traffic in Sumatra was something, Java is all that and 10 times as bad, my second day in Java saw me travel 150 k’s in 6 hours and that’s on a motorbike, I would hate to be in a car. Its not just the slow pace, its nearly been killed every kilometer, the fumes from the cars, the lack of road rules, which you might think yeah come on Robbo its Indonesia, yes you are correct but here is some examples, keep left or right or actually anywhere you think will slow down the traffic the best, if one drives a car they have the right to overtake, up a hill on a corner and any motorbikes coming in the opposite direction must seek salvage on the side of the road, when pulling onto a road do not look and once on the road slow right down and perhaps stop if you feel a need, the list of madness goes on and on. Most of the day I commentate inside my helmet as the near crashes and amazing maneuvers that go on until I am involved, one truck did decide he was a bulldozer for a second and ram into my pannier hoping to gain valuable millimeters in his quest to go forward, insane.

I dream of the long roads of emptiness in Australia where I will be able to use the full range of my gearbox and not have to change gears very 2 seconds.

Kamikaze Cat

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 11:56:00 +0000

Indonesia the final test, in the way of traffic, its crazy, there are 225 million people in this country and I swear each person owns at least 2 motorbikes! There are millions of them, along with cars, trucks and an array of other contraptions which don’t fall into any of the already mentioned categories, its madness.

I got my bike in, well of course I did, what other option did I have but it came at a price. I tried my best to get it in without paying a penny but I failed and I tried everything, I tried all the tricks I used for other countries but failed every time. Basically Indonesia requires a carnet, that I did know but so did places like Iran and Kenya and I won in the end but not this time. With Akis and Vula waiting patiently I had no option then to pay what they call a security bond, basically if one does not have a carnet they can put down a deposit and then get the deposit back when you exit the country. When they asked the price of the bike I said 1000 dollars, I should have lied even more as this is the amount that I have left with the customs. I wonder weather I will see that money again, they assured me that I will, here’s hoping. The thing is I have not come this far to be stopped by the second to last country, please East Timor let me in, to be stranded here in Indo so I paid, I felt I had to, well I did plain and simple.

Along with the Greeks we headed north to Bukit Lawang to hang out with the Orangutans a while, wow these creatures are just amazing, I have seen them before but it was worth the whole 2 dollars to go see them again. Then the big decision, head north to Banda Aceh or just start the long journey across Sumatra. It’s all physiological not wanting to head north when its south that we wanted but we went north, why not.
Their feet are like hands.

Of course, bananas for lunch.

Amamzing creatures.

In one day it all went wrong, I first did a wheel bearing but with the help of Akis we fixed it in no time at all and then after our lunch break things went from bad to horrible, the Greeks car seemed to seize, the engine was locked tight, they were going nowhere. So that was that, out of all their options it was back to Malaysia to Kuala Lumper to get it fixed so after 2 nice days traveling together I was on my own again. As I rode into Banda Aceh I imagined the Tsunami that hit, the streets would have been as crowded as the day I was there and the people would have not had a chance, to think that over 200 000 people lost their lives here in one day! So now I was as far north as a could possibly be, as I turned the mother ship south I thought to myself this is the last time, its all down hill from here.

The Greek's getting towed to Banda Aceh.

Some evidence stil of the massive Tsunami wave.

Another Xmas on the road, it was my third, the first one Amy and I spent on the Niger river in Mali with Del and Leo, seems so long ago, my second one was in the Omo valley, amongst ancient tribes, with my Spanish and Dutch friends, and this one I was alone at Lake Toba, fortunately in the most populated land of Islam the little island on Lake Toba is Christian so there was a Xmas feel about the place. For me Santa bought two new tires, he could have fitted the bloody things! Well I bought them in Penang and now had to fit them, on Xmas eve I got a puncture so Xmas day I spent fixing the hole and fitting the new rubber but what a difference they turned out to make. Indo is lush and green, everyday at some point it rains, mostly in the afternoon. That has not stopped me from camping, I have managed to camp every night besides Toba, I have slept in a bank car park, under a mechanics tin shed, an old restraint and in the jungle one night. But this comes at a price, I smell , I don’t think I have ever gone so long in the whole journey without a shower and boy at one stage I did not think I could sleep in the tent with myself. I even had a conversation with a nice local, a lot speak ok English, and half way through the conversation he asked me if I wash, hmm I knew what he was coming at but I said, well yes of course I do, he then said "you smell" I had to laugh, aint that the truth I thought.

For the 5th and last time, accross the Equator

Oh and yes the title, how can I forget, even the cats here have mad road sense, on my last day in Sumatra I had been going no more than a few minutes on the wet and slippery road from the overnight rain and then it happened, a crazy cat ran full pace from the bushes, now I could see it had timed its run to late and I gripped the bars ready for my first feline casualty, I dare not break as that would have meant me sliding down the road with the cat, so it was the cat or the both of us and I already new what I wanted, sorry cat, so I held my line then at the last minute it launched at me like a Bengal tiger, well not quite but it leaped into the air and slamming smack bang into my engine bars with a great thud, I looked in my mirror to see how it fared and there it was walking a bit wobbly back to where it first ran from, I guess he was not on his last life……….got me thinking I sure hope I have not used up all mine in this chaotic, no rules, anything goes mayhem called Indonesian road traffic!

Indoneedacarnet!

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:14:00 +0000

I am now in Belawan, Indonesia, without my bike...........well its here and I have seen it but there is a problem, 'no carnet' as I expected. The Greeks and I arrived late in the afternoon and Customs had closed for the day, so we set about trying to find somebody to help us, eventually we ended up in the right place and it was here I was told I now have to wait til Monday, its Friday night now, for Customs to open and try to sort something out. The answer may be a cash deposit that I will have to front and then receive it back once I exit the country, hmm I don't like the chances of seeing that money again, now if its only a few dollars then great but I am sure it will be a fair sum, its to stop me selling the bike in Indonesia, if they only understood how badly I want to get this bike back home after all I have been through!

So looks like a nice few days in the beautiful port city of Belawan.......................yes beautiful and port city do not go together!

The Mother Ship sets sail

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:03:00 +0000

Although today was a long day it all went quite smooth, after all the paper work was completed it was off to the Port in Butterworth to load Akis and Vulas 4WD and my bike, both bound for Sumatra.

The consignment waiting at the dock in Butterworth.

Hmmm I sure hope the wooden boat does not sink.

The first impression of the boat was a little worrying, old and made from wood but then I thought back to the boat I took across from Djibouti to Yemen, this boat was the QE2 compared to the Yemen boat, so I assured myself very quickly.

First the Greeks 4WD.......

.....and then the mother ship.

The boat left immediately and will arrive to Indonesia in 16 hours, as for us we will catch the fast ferry in the morning and arrive tomorrow at about 3, then begins solving the great mystery of the carnet problem or there lack of. The last country I have to get through with out the carnet, can I do it?? Well of course there is East Timor after Indo but I think it will be OK.

Waiting for the boat in Penang

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 05:15:00 +0000

Only three more countries to get into, including Australia. I made it into Malaysia with out having to produce my rego documents, was the easiest of border crossings, I wish they were all like that but then again where would the fun be if they were!

I travelled down the coast of Thailand with a short stay in Ao Nang to experience more tourists than I have ever seen, was not for me that's for sure, I was in the same place 5 years ago and boy has it changed since then, makes me miss the adventure of Mongolia, the unknown that Africa presented, the wild scenery of central Asia, its more of a holiday now. So that bought about a quick trip down here to Penang, Malaysia where I have been for a week. I sorted out the ferry to Sumatra for the bike, it leaves tomorrow and me the following day, Friday, the same day as the mother ship will dock, fingers crossed I can pick it up on Saturday, but I have been informed that the port is closed on the weekend so Monday is when I will be able to fetch it from Customs, which also is a questions, I was also informed that without a Carnet Indonesia is not possible and that the last guy that tried to take his bike in without a carnet was fined 600 dollars!! But I have heard all that before, remember Iran, Kenya I think was another place I was told I would never get in without the carnet, so again a little fun awaits me across the strait of Melacca, can't wait.

Its a small small world, I have bumped into my Greek friends, Akis and Vula who I first met in Mozambique then again in Ethiopia and recently Cambodia and now staying at the same Guest House on Penang island, they to are heading across the water to Indo so we may head across Sumatra together, at least some company for Xmas and the new year, which I did hope to make Bali for but alas the waiting for the boat has changed my plans.

Rickshaw in front of the Hong Kong Bar, Penang.

I am all ready for the last and final two countries to Oz, it's a long way across the length of Indo to East Timor, around 6000 k's and all of that is windy roads and of course I here millions of bikes, so I think it will takes around 4-6 weeks to cover, so around the start of February I will be on home soil.

For those of you who have asked, the mad Belgium, brother Dirk has arrived today in Dili, East Timor and will be in Darwin as soon as he gets his bike on Perkins Shipping. And I am sure he will be in need of a very cold beer once in Darwin. Merry Xmas everyone

Just another obstacle!

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Fri, 05 Dec 2008 11:32:00 +0000

Here I am in Bangkok again, it’s the forth time in a few months and boy am I ready to escape it. After arriving back from Dubai I headed north to Laos and gave entering Vietnam a shot with the bike, sometimes you just never know what is possible. I explained the situation to the border guys on the Laos side so they did not give the bike an exit stamp for Laos, otherwise if it did not work out I would have to pay again to get the bike into Laos which I only exited 20 minutes before. So the short ride to the Vietnam border post with my fingers crossed, the idea of back packing did not appeal what so ever. Things looked promising as I put on a smile but then they discovered that it was a 750, well the sticker on the side of the bike saying 750 is a give away and its not rocket science that there are not many 175cc bikes out there with 2 cylinders, so that was that, a failed attempt.

Quickly I rode back to Laos and found a building that stored corn and paid the owner some cash to park the bike up, packed myself a little bag, far welled the stead and walked back to Vietnam. Then began an epic journey to reach Hanoi.

The truck driver taking a drag!

The slow slow Kamaz.

Fixing the flat tire.

First it was aboard the back of a scooter for the first 50 k’s to a village where I could board a bus, once in the village I was told there was no bus till the next day, great, so I had a bite to eat in a local shop and luck had it I befriended a truck driver who told me I can go with him and his two mates, fantastic I thought. My new ride was an old Kamaz truck loaded to the top with bamboo. So the long trek began, they new I wanted to go to Hanoi but communication between us was difficult and I understood that they could get me close to another city, well this would do me, worry about that later. The truck was slow, I swear I could have walked faster, the driver smoked his bamboo pipe to make the slowness of the journey not so painful, what was in the pipe I think provided him with quite a kick!

Every time I asked how far to go the distances seem to get further and further so in the end I gave up and just sat back to ride out the journey, then in the middle of the road there was an accident between a scooter and 4WD that blocked the whole road, which was quite skinny so until the police arrived we went nowhere, that took over an hour then further down the road a flat tire on the truck, my new Vietnamese friends set about fixing it. Then finally after a very long long day we arrived to the main highway at 11pm and fortune had it I flagged a bus down instantly and was on it to cover the last 100 k’s to Hanoi, I finally arrived after midnight.

Think I will stick to the Honda....and whats that guy doing at the back????

So then for the next 10 days I visited Halong bay and then north to Sapa to visit the Hamong tribes, Vietnam the land of tooting horns and crazy drivers, I was glad not to have the bike there I think but also I was very glad to return to Laos and find the stead exactly as I left it. Then it was back to pleasant quiet, peaceful Laos- a wonderful place. After another week and just traveling across the north again I entered Thailand.

Takes me back to the days of the Sonik.

Rice fields in Sapa.

River crossing in Laos.

Yep Sapa was close to China....this is proof.

It was here I struck some problems, earlier in the piece you read how I rode the bike to Laos-Vietnam border well when I arrived at the border I went to grab my rego papers for the bike and could not find them. I had a photocopy with me to use and just figured that I left the original back in Bangkok and a bunch of other things I left there to pick up upon return, as in now. So there I was at the Thai border with a photocopy of my original rego papers, this paper basically states the bike is mine and some places do not except copies, they want to see the original. Now since I arrived to the late in the afternoon and Thai customs was shut they told me to return the next day to do the paper work, but of course it did not mean back to Laos, just stay there in the borer town the night and come back in the morning. So the next morning I went to go see them and clear the bike but for the life of me I could not find my photocopy of the rego documents, I looked everywhere it could be, but it was gone, hmm, this was a problem but not as big as I realized it would become. So now I had no proof the bike was mine what so ever but I still believed that the original was in Bangkok. Thai customs where great, since the previous day the officer did see me with my papers and now I told him I lost them he let me simply copy the chassis and engine numbers from the bike, so the bike was in, no problems.

The amazing long neck tribe in Thailand.

Beautiful Long neck girl.

It was a quick visit to Chang Rei to see the longneck tribe then Chang Mei. Then it was onto Bangkok where the real problem was discovered, yep you guessed my original rego document was not here, but still I thought I can just ring the department in the UK and get a new one sent out, wrong, wrong, wrong I was, after many phone calls to them they have told me that since the bike has been out of the country longer than 12 months it’s been listed as exported and they can not issue me with a new copy just like that, it will take a letter from me, which I sent and then an investigation by them to decided weather to issue another and this takes minimum 6 weeks! So here I am in Thailand without any proof that my bike is mine and to cross borders I need something official to say the bike is mine, so yes it was my own silly fault for loosing both the rego papers but beauracy in this world makes nothing easy and takes the fun out of it completely. But there will be a way, there always is, I have to get home with my bike.

24 hours on and some progress has been made and I am heading south again. I managed to find a copy of my rego papers on email and print it out, it’s only a copy but I would rather continue on and give getting into Malaysia a shot instead of waiting around for 6 weeks for an answer that could be bad anyway, then its only Indo and East Timor from there. So here I go, the final part, let it be smooth going and let this photocopy get me through.

The Journey Continues

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 16:37:00 +0000

I am back in Bangkok, it seems all a little surreal, did I go to Dubai, did I run around like mad and organise to compete in a race, did I do it, now I am back just like that, I guess I was only gone 18 days, what a whirl wind trip I went on, I rode, I conquered, I returned! I arrived to a dirty old Africa twin which I knew needed some attention as the last day I rode it turned out to be just another adventure in The Hard Way Home or just another normal day I suppose, more on that later this is how I got to that day, the day I flew to Dubai.

After uncrating the mother ship, enjoying some much R & R in Bangkok and giving the vibrating toothpicks to a Thai family, I fair welled brother Dirk and headed the ship north again to Laos. I then headed the rest of the way south down Laos, this time in more comfort, the bike did not vibrate, parts did not fall off and the seat was like a sofa compared to the toothpick! The south was not as beautiful as the north but Laos is quite something. I arrived at the border with Cambodia late one evening and stamped out of Laos, rode the 1 k to the Cambodian side and was told that customs had gone home for the night and that I had to go back to Laos, this was not an option, after a discussion much to our displeasure the Cambodian officials said I could stay there in there hammock, so for the first time in 2 years and about 40 border crossing I was stuck for the first time at a border, that night the mosquitos nearly carried me away and the heavens opened up in a tremendous show of lightning and thunder whilst the rain hammered at the tin roof. The following day saw one tired person and onto Cambodia I rode.

About half way to the capital I decided to attempt a slight detour, yes I will never learn, that would take me to a remote village but half way there the sun was setting and it had just rained causing the front tire to build up so much mud between it and the mud guard that the wheel stopped turning, I fell once but escaped unharmed, it was very tough.

I were defeated, it was dark and I turned back to the last town I had passed, tried checking into a guest house but they all smelt rat infested and stale, then an angel appeared in the form of a young Cambodian girl who invited me to stay with her family, amazing could not have asked for anything better.

Onto Phnom Penh for a few days break where I had the pleasure of catching up with a mate that I had not seen for about 12 years, Jarrod Monaghan who is teaching sport in a school over there, the beers went down well and stories of old flowed. With time running out I then headed to Seim Reap where I bumped into Akis and Vula, the greek couple I met in Mozambique almost a year ago to the day, they are going around the world in a 4WD, its such a small small world. After taking in the splendors of ancient Ankor Wat it was west to Bangkok.

This brings me to the day I flew to Dubai, I left Siem Reap early with about 500 k's to do, cross a border in the middle, grab some left luggage from down town Bangers, then find Harley Davidson Bangkok to park the mother ship with Ross the general manger who I had been put in touch with through another mate, piece of cake, or so I thought! I set of and remember saying to the stead, just today don't let me down I need to get on this flight at 8.30pm. All was well the road was rubbish but a little last minute training I though as I had the big bugger air born on a few occasions, crunching down hard on the suspension with a smile under my helmet. But the of course it happened, 10 k's before the border my bike just stopped, hmm what the hell is this, I took my helmet of and instantly knew the problem and this meant deep shit! I could smell acid, sulphur, my battery had exploded, therefore the battery was been over charged byt the rectifier, I had it before so I knew. What to do, the strangest things happen, a guy, local looking rocks up on a chopper, dressed in leather, chains and rings oh and not to mention tattoes, he spoke with a deep American accent, and explained he lived in the US but was original from Cambodia, I quickly discovered he was rotten drunk, his breath almost making me sway, then he offered me a huge spliff, I declined saying "right now my friend I need to be as switched on as possible" maybe it would have taken the worry away, who knows. So he started to preach all about how us 'Bikers" stick together, then he suggested he tow me to the border, hmm I could see that ending in complete disaster, not the airport I would have been bound for but more like the morgue! I quickly decided to flag down a ute, eventually after a few minutes one stopped and we made a deal, I was desperate and they wanted money, so we loaded it in the back whilst my new friend worked on his giant spliff. Then he tried to ride off and his bike broke, shit I felt bad, he stopped for me but here I was driving of leaving him behind, I just said sorry mate I need to catch a flight, good luck, some how I don't think he will even remember I was there!

Now I was at the border, or at least in the border town on the Cambodian side still, time ticking away til my flight and with 350 k's to go I figured I had no hope, after asking about I found a battery from an old bike leaning against a workshop wall, it was not the correct size but it would do, in it went and away went the bike when I hit the button, great I was back in action. Off to the border after been relieved to much for a second hand battery again I was desperate and they had the battery. Now at the border I stamped out of Cambodia no problems, even skipped customs, figured I would not be back, then the Thai side, all of a sudden I needed insurance, aw this was not good, thinking quick on my feet, which seems to be something I have picked up of late, i showed him a piece of paper that had all the writing washed away as it had been in my pocket in the rain, I said this was it, sorry for the print, he studied it, I could see the little mouse in his head going a million miles an hour, then with a few baht he filled out a form and let me in, it worked, now it was off to Bangers, the road was good and I arrived there at 6pm, got my luggage from left luggage and then found Harley Davidson, met Ross, packed mt bags right there in the car park, sculled a tiger beer, jumped in a cab and shot to airport, just in time to check in and board the plane, it was a relief to be sitting on the plane, what a day, but again "in the end it will be alright and if its not alright its not the end"

So I spent the day at Harley fitting a new battery then testing the rectifier, yep it was done for, luckily I had been to Dubai and picked up my old rectifier from the bike that was stolen that the cops found, so I had a spare, I fitted that and hey presto it works, then riding home in the dark my bike stops, I rolled to a stop on the busy street of Bangkok and started to find the problem. Right there and then I experienced something that I did not expect, I was relaxed and calm, completely, I simply started to take all the stuff of and go through in my head what it could be, right there in the dark, not phased in the slightest, usually I might curse saying truck and poo a lot! I think with all the problems I have faced and again knowing that I will solve it it the end finally naturally came over me, there is never a problem to large. For the next hour I went over everything, cars whizzing by, found two wires touching which caused the main fuse to blow, got it going and rode onto the guest house.

Monks at Ankor Wat

Ankor Wat

I would really like to take some time to thank every body for the messages I received about the race, your comments are priceless and I will have them forever, they mean a lot to me. And not just for the race I always enjoy your comments, don't be shy now. Also I get a lot of people saying "they envy what I am doing" or "I would love to do that" plus I hear from some that they are inspired to get out there and do something, that gives me such a great feeling, if I can inspire one person well thats one more person chasing their dreams, dreams do come true and I have learnt that I can make my dreams come true, you can to, don't envy me, get out there and do it yourself, you can, all of you can, anything is possible, every day during the race I just kept telling myself to make it to the end, just keep going and I made it, I made it to the end second, how about that!

Thank you everyone for sharing my trip with me, so now begins the last leg to Australia, I am headed north to visit Vietnam, then I will head south down Thailand to Malaysia, cross to Sumatra, Indonesia and island hop all the way to East Timor and load the mother ship onto a boat to Darwin, then from Darwin it will be a short 3-4000 k's to the farm, Turriff. Along the way I hope to team up with Clint, there you go mate you have to come now, and another great couple of mates, Wierd Al and Magilla, yep Aussie boys with names like that and cross the Simpson Desert, one last desert crossing for me, I just love them! So I think the adventure is far from over although I feel very close to home, there is a lot to come yet, so enjoy the last few months of updates because once I am done your work day might seem a little dull after that! I know I am in for a shock to say the least.

Dreams can come true

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Mon, 03 Nov 2008 11:43:00 +0000

The prologue, this consisted of a quick lap around the Dubai motocross track to determine the starting order for the following day, now all this was new to me and with 60 bikes and 20 quads entering the race I thought to start around 50th would suit me fine, that way I could just follow the tracks and not worry about the navigation side of things. I went around the track slowly but confidently enough wondering if the hour I spent in the desert two days before was enough training for what was to come. After the prologue was finished I had myself a starting position of 57th out of 80, that will do for me. So it was back to Dubai for one last nights rest. I was not nervous at all and had really no idea what to expect or what lay ahead.

Day 1, what a day, my fist experience at racing and what an experience it was, I will leave nothing out so here goes. Firstly I must thank Colin Mercer for helping me out to get to the start line and then without Sean Mayer's help throughout the race it would not have been possible, so Sean and I got up at 4am loaded the bike onto the trailer and set off for Abu Dahbi, 150 k's away from Dubai where the start was to take place at the Emirates Palace. We had gone no further than 10 k's and noticed a bag in the back of his truck missing, yep his boots and clothing bag had fallen out so turning around quickly to find them but only having luck with his boots, the clothes bag was no where to be seen, what a great start I thought, on we went. The ceremonial start was up over a ramp with a hand shake from Sheik Mohammed Bin Salaem, down the ramp i road with a liaison of about 50 k's to the start of the special stage. Each day consist of liaison stage's which is just the part you have to ride to get to the start line of that day or back to the bivouac at night, its not a race stage and then the special stage is the race timed stage. I made it to the start line in time to see the likes of Marc Coma and Cyril Depres scream off into the desert on their factory KTM's what a sight, I wondered what I would do, scream off, take it easy even fall off who knows but as the clock ticked away my time came closer, still not nervous at all, i felt good. Then it was me I got the count down, 20 seconds, 10 seconds, then 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 go!!!

Getting geared up in Abu Dahbi for the start.

By the end after my big fall it did not quite look the same but what a machine it turned out to be

Away I went, naturally almost as hard as I could, its a long race and people had been telling me that a lot of people burn themselves out on day one by going to hard, so I went at about 3/4 pace for a long time, the going mainly flat with out much sand. Concentrating on working the road book and learning how to use the navigation but the skill was quickly acquired and got on with the job at hand. I passed a few bikes early and wondered if I was going to fast, my only fear wondering if I was on track to burn myself out like people say. The day went on and I grew in confidence, felt settled on the bike and finally the deeper I got into the desert the more sand began, passing a few more bikes I still felt good, remember these bikes started at 30 second time intervals ahead of me so it meant I was making up time on them. Through out the day I passed about 4 quads all parked up, the riders OK on their mobile phones, indicating their machines were broken, what a disappointment it must have been, I prayed that mine would just keep going on going to the end.

Day 1, the sevice point, after I fell off I had to wash the sand off my face, thanks Sean.

Riding the dunes.

I had covered about 270 's or so of special stage and still felt perfect so decided to get into it a bit as there was only 40 k's to go, through the dunes like a boat in ocean swell, rolling with them, I was enjoying it, then one caught me out, two fast off a drop of and I fell to the side as the bike went down my head slamming into the side of the dune, a little rattled I picked up the bike, quick inspection, everything including me beside a mouthful of sand and off I went again reaching the finish line shortly after, then with a 120 k liaison to the bivouac. Now a funny thing happened on this liaison, of course I had been re hydrating like nothing else, drinking so much water so not to get dehydrated in the desert, another big thing that stops riders. But i had dank clearly way to much and was consistently busting for a pee, eventually I had to stop by the side of the road to relieve one self, as I did I was so busting that when I went number one and and actually farted number two decided to rear its ugly head, as one would say. Hell here I was now with a problem, I swung my leg over the bike and stood up all the way to the next fuel station, climbed off my bike in front of a few Arab's who looked amazed, here's this rider all kitted up, with a race number and looking like I was apart of a major event, which I was, wondering off to the loo. cleaned myself up, lost the underwear and rode all the way to the bivouac minus my jocks!!! Anyway as it turned out I managed to have the 17th fastest time of the day, i was stoked with my efforts and felt still on top of things, not tired and looked forward to the next day.

Day 2-Its hard to remember exactly all the race but day two saw an early start, every day was an early start, first rider away at 6am and the higher you finish the closer you are to that time. I had another good day this time I managed to stay on my bike all day and spent most of it alone not been able to catch anyone nor anyone behind me catch me, over 300 k's out there screaming around in the desert, at the beginning I did come over a rise and see a bike on its side and then the rider about 30 metres in front of it laying on the ground, already another rider had stopped so I continued on when they gave me the thumbs up, I thought it can happen so easy, just be careful and don't get to excited, get to the finish line. Its very much a mind game out there, how hard to push, are you going fast enough, are you going to fast, its a long way to the end and the idea is to make it, for me never ever done such a thing I had no idea but just rode my bike best I could and at the same time careful enough. Again at the end I felt good and this time I had finished 13th overall, again I could not believe it, I was up against some amazing riders and plus I was aboard a 450 and half the field on the big 690 cc's, the dunes and tight stuff more suited to the smaller bikes I guess.

Simon Pavey, Aussie who has done the Dakar many times.

Day 3-what an amazing experience I had on this day. Since I started in 13th position it meant i was surrounded by some well know riders and once the stage got under way a group formed, in it were two factory ktm's, these guys have only ever been names to me, and here I was, in total there were 4 690's and two 450's, me on one of course and for the next 300k's we stuck together, I think their shear speed pulled me along faster than I may have gone on my own, the pace was blistering, sometimes 120 and more across the desert, at times going down huge dune slip faces, in a row, for me it was a sight to see, it was an amazing experience but then toward the end n the last 40 k's I fell on my side and by time I picked it up they ahead, I tried to catch them up but then fell again, I told myself to get a grip, let them go, I had kept up with them long enough, composing myself I made it almost to the line when faced with one more huge dune, i was getting tired by this point, almost got to the top and over again, picking up the bike I jumped on rode a metre and fell over the opposite side, I was exhausted, picking it one more time with a huge grunt, I rode carefully back down the dune turned around and roared up it, this time up and over to the finish line, another day down and now I was feeling the body, feeling the tiredness but what a day and my time was great, i think I finished 11th overall, not bad for a guy that only practiced for an hour!!

The mad Russians flew through the desert in thier Kamaz

Tim Trenker from Dubai KTM.

The winner of the cars. BMW X5

Day 4-Realising now that I did not have to conserve energy I would go for it all day, I knew my body would stand up to it and not run out of steam. I pushed all day but felt slow in the morning and my time proved that, I think I dropped as far as 20th in the first half of the day, I never was a morning person! But after the half way point I would get into it and made up my positions again, not sure where I finished but around 15th fastest for the day, with one to go things looked good and my nerves started to kick in. I was sitting 4th in the 450 class and that day the top Portuguese rider had taken a fall and broken his back, which of course was not good but it moved me into a podium place, 3rd looked good but the other Portuguese rider, Rodrigus was fast and I only had a 30 minute lead on him which if I kept it together would be enough to beat him across the line on the final day. But due to this possibility my nerves came for thefirst time in the race, going into the last day I was as nervous as hell!

On day 4 The number one in the world Marc Coma's bike failed, thats him getting a lift from a spectator!!

Day 5-the final leg that would see us back to Dubai, it started with a liaison of 118 k's to the start and then taking us out of the dunes and into more flatter terrain and requiring a lot more navigation as the stage found its way through camel farms and around roads. I felt good as I went and by the time I got to the halfway point to have my compulsory 15 minute break i was told Rodrigus had only made up 30 seconds on me so now more than ever I had to just get across the line and third was mine. Off I went for the final leg, not long after there was a bike parked on the side of the track, it was a 450 and it was the leader, he was out as he just gave a disappointed wave to me, this meant I was now in 2nd spot, then I made a navigational error and had to come back on myself about a kilometre or so, clearly I had time up my sleeve but I had to cross a series of dunes which took time, I told my self to calm down and just ride carefully, I did not listen to myself one bit, I hit about 90 right as I hit a small dune on the road and I flew landing on a huge mound of dirt on the other side, the bike bucked and I went flying on my own, spinning end oer end in the air, I was there that long that in my mind I had enough time to think to myself, shit this is going to hurt, an hurt bad! I landed with my head and then rolled down my back feet landing last and my momentum left me sitting up right, I paused stood up and could not believe it I was fine, I felt perfect, I ran back to the bike picked it up and pushed my road book back to its normal position and then found the map cover about 10 metres from the bike, ran got it, put it back on, started the bike and rode off. At that point I thought nothing was going to stop me finishing the race, I am meant to finish it as with a crash like that I was not really meant to even stand up but I was fine. But I had ripped the power cable out of the gps and navigation was now hard, I slowed to wait for a rider behind me to pass so I could follow him in to the finish, I stuck close to him and after the last set of dunes I could see the line, gave my leader the thumbs up and away I left him to cross the line, what a feeling to cross the line, 2200 k's out in the desert, every one of them flat out, I had made it and not only had I made it I had gotten a position, something I never ever thought would happen, all of a sudden i felt fine, I felt I had all the energy in the world, what a relief!

Tim Trenker at the finish line.

Marc Coma at the finish.

Me followed by Vinters on a 690 at the Finish line.

Some where not as lucky as others!

Cyril Depres, the winner of the open class.

Sheik Mohammad presenting me with second in class back in Dubai.

Then it was a short 45 k liaison into the Dubai Marina, for a beer, that went straight to my head, plus I think it was a light beer as well!! Over the ceremonial finish receiving my medal in front of a crowd and also live on TV. Then after a nice shower and a change of clothes it was the gala dinner to receive a trophy, and boy lucky I have other stuff to ship home as it would cost me a fortune alone to send it, it weighs a tone!

All I can say is it was worth it, what an experience, it does go to show that anyone of us can do anything we want to in this world if you want to do it bad enough, does not matter who you are, believe in yourself and keep telling yourself you can do it and you will get there, I did. I have made my dream come true in every way, I finished 11th overall, 2nd in 450's and 1st in my category of rally production, not a bad effort for a non sponsored rider that just rode 7000 k's on a Chinese motorbike, maybe that was the secret!

..............and if this is what racing is about count me in!!!

Ladies and Gentlemen start your engines,

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Sat, 25 Oct 2008 17:42:00 +0000

Wow, what a crazy week it has been, getting everything sorted for the big race, I never realized there was so much involved, I think the easy part will be riding the bike! I just can'twait to get into it. I have had two days of scuterneering making sure the Honda CRF is up to scatch, all went well except for a few wiring problems with the sentinal, which is the device that warns me if a car or truck is about to overtake, a loud buzzer goes off, since the bikes start first then the cars and trucks I sure hope not to get passed by any trucks, if I do I guess I will be having a bad day. But again I just keep telling myself to get to the end, enjoy it and have a great time, after all its not everyday one gets to race around a desert with the highest dunes in the world! Better not crash out on day one now!!

Nervous, well not yet but I am sure that will come, but excited I am, I cant wait. Tomoorow is the prologue, just a quick lap around a short track to determine the starting grid of the first day. There is 5 days covering a total of 2200 k's, the actual race legs range from 300 to 400 a day, I am not sure I know what I've got myself in for, to late now, hmm I wonder if Marc Coma is thinking that right now.....some how I don't think so. In total there is 60 Bikes, I am number 57, 20 quads, about 25 cars and a few trucks, for my second race in my life I kinda picked a big one.

Again if your interested to see how I get on go to http://www.uaedesertchallenge.com/. Oh and by the way for those of you you who are wondering who Marc Coma is he is the number one in the world, the only time I will see him is in the meal tent at night if I finish in time of course!!!

The Next Challenge

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 14:41:00 +0000

Right then there is another twist in The Hard Way Home, its a little of the track but I am now back in Dubai, I can see a few raised eyebrows out there for those who don't know but I am competing in the UAE Desert Challenge, its an endurance race through the desert for 5 days, its always been a dream of mine to do the Paris to Dakar but of course its expensive, now the Desert Challenge is more affordable but still on a world level, all the top riders of the world will compete, the cars and the trucks, for me it will be a challenge which I think most of you now know I enjoy and I believe more than ever if you can make your dreams come true you must, anything is possible! I cant say I will exactly be racing against the best in the world but at least in the same race as them! I will pilot a CRF450 X rally bike, of course a Honda as my weapon of choice, what else is there, maybe a Sunik, nah clutch problems!

The race starts on the 24th of October and goes for 5 days, it is a test of man and machine at the highest level, I cant wait and I would be lying if I said I am not as nervous as hell!! So I hope that I have loads of support and the more encouragement the better, I do always enjoy receiving emails from everybody and anybody, the race can be seen online at http://www.uaedesertchallenge.com/ and it will have live updates as it unfolds.

My goal is to just make it to the finish line. Wish me luck.

Beautiful Laos

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 13:33:00 +0000

We rode up to the border of China and Laos on the last day of our Chinese visa, perfect timing. Now how would this all go, what would happen to our vibrating toothpicks?? They asked for the papers on the Chinese side and we presented the receipt and another piece of paper that simply said how many gears the bike had and other particulars, useless really but we had to give them something, and again it worked, we received our exit stamp and rode out of China, now to get them into Laos.

We made it into Laos!

The Laos side was so so pleasant, I had forgotten how friendly these people are, such beautiful people, they stamped us in and asked for the bike papers, we again handed over the receipt of purchase, written in Chinese remember, the customs guy looked at it and said I cant read this and we both replied well either can we, he laughed and waved us in, holy shit we now could ride across Laos to Thailand on our Toothpicks, we were not happy because we love riding them we were happy to the fact that we did not have to back pack and we could ride that bit further, it was only Thailand now that remained the question, could we actually ride all the way to Bangkok?

The Plain of Jars

Images of Laos

We had at least 10 days to get to Bangkok before we would be reunited with our trusty great Honda's which we loved more an more every day with every kilometer on the Toothpicks! So some time for a slower pace, some Beer Laos and relaxing along the way. But of course when one has such adventure and the pace slows the mind gets thinking, instead of taking the nice normal road all the way South to the Thai border we decided to take a track through the jungle and of course its still the rainy season, what the hell why not. After visiting the plane of jars, which are huge rocks carved as jars on a plane, title explains itself really we set off into the jungle and of course it started to rain. And again what lay ahead were things I had never done, we started to have to cross rivers and the more it rained the higher the rivers swelled and the faster they flowed, one crossing my Toothpick was actually floating away as Dirk and I hung onto it tight not letting the current wash it down the river, other rivers we had to use Bamboo rafts to get them across. It was pouring so hard it was impossible to see but our toothpicks just slowly picked their way through the mud until one huge river were about half a dozen people already were sitting under a little hut, the river was to swollen and two deep. So we waited all under the hut, the locals said maybe three hours and it will drop, OK we have time. We waited about an our and on the other side of the river more locals arrived on their own little scooters, got off and 5 of them carried the bikes across the river, well if they can we can, we asked for their help and we all carried the 2 toothpicks across the river, with a round of hand shakes we were off again.

Steady she goes captain.

Another crossing, wide one this time.

Carrying the bikes across the river.

It may have a cheeta on the side but its far from fast!

Time for some fun, Sunik circle work.

Then came the muddiest road I have ever been on in my life, plus remeber there we were on Chinese 150cc's with three people and loads of luggage, mud so deep that the road was completely impassable for anything at all but we poked along mud hole by mud hole and eventually came out the other end, again we made it across another country on the toothpicks and the adventure was priceless, people would pay huge money to even attempt what we did, what a time we had.

The Mud caked onto the Toothpicks!

So with 3 days before our Honda's would arrive in Bangkok we were at the Laos Thia border, so after one last night in Laos we tried Thailand with our toothpicks.

We carried the bikes onto a small boat and crossed the Mekong river to the Thai side and then carried the bikes up a very steep flight of stairs, was quite a struggle but a few onlookers saw it was not easy for us and helped out. The Thai officials were lovely, they never said we could not bring them in but needed to find out what to do, after about 2 hours the paper work was done and again we were allowed to ride in Thailand, that was it, great I would be able to achieve what I always wanted and that was to ride a bike every inch of the way, yeah it was not the same bike but still a bike, besides I already had one bike stolen so whats it matter if it was a few bikes. I was so happy that we exited the customs compound and I looked left then right and all was clear well so I thought, Thailand is back to left hand drive and its been a long time for me to drive on the left, I pulled out looked up and there almost in my lap were to girls riding a scooter, I swerved sharply only just missing them, wow concentrate Robbo I thought, need to just get to Bangkok!

So by the time we hit the road to Bangkok it was about 1 pm, it was 700 k's to the capital and we would reach it in 2 days. We let the sun set on us so now it was already dark and I think we had similar thoughts lets go until we can't anymore. Then it rained and rained, so since now we were wet we thought lets go all the way that way we do not have to get up the next day and put on wet clothes, one thing is for sure we have determination, any normal person would have stopped along way back, either that or we are stupid, maybe its the later!! It became cold, soaked to the core, so here we were in Thailand breaking the number one rule of all the travel, riding at night and not only at night but in the pouring rain an freezing bloody cold.

We stopped for some fuel and were both shaking from the cold, hardly been able to move and both needing to go to the toilet we again had a similar thought, standing there already completely wet we just went to the toilet, it was so so warm, arrhh!

We pushed on all night, my clutch was slipping so badly that at times I could only get 60 k's per hour from the toothpick then with steady throttle control it would take about 10 k's to get the speed up to 90 again, plus when the rained stopped the engine would heat up and the clutch slip more but when it rained the engine cooled and the clutch slipped less so the faster I could go, bit crazy but of course the harder it rained the harder we went! With my tinted lens I had to ride with it up all the night, how I saw I am not sure, over taking trucks squinting through the mist until I popped out the other side, yeah maybe we are stupid actually.

We rolled into Bangkok at 1 minute to 1am, we made it, straight to a pub for a celebratory drink, we bloody did it, amazing, we rode the toothpicks from one side of China to the other and all the down Laos and onto Bangkok. The next day we got word that the Mother ship and the Old Girl had arrived early to Bangkok so off to the airport we went to be reunited, was it a great sight to see the boxes they were in and even a better feeling to open them up. It took us all day to clear the paper work and a few hours to put them together to ride them into town. The first time I hit the starter and head the rumble of the faithful V-Twin gave me goose bumps, what a sound. Riding off was a bit strange, wobbly, as it felt heavy, but boy when I screwed the throttle it felt like I was going to launch into outer space, out the airport terminal we went turned onto the highway and into it, I screwed the throttle hard, gave the handle bars a slight pull and up on the back wheel it rose, a bunch of Thai taxi drivers all pointing and hooting, we roared our way into Bangkok city, wearing flip flops, shorts and T-shirts, again it was exciting to have them back. We did it!

A Race Through China

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:35:00 +0000

That's exactly what it was, not a ride but a race and boy was it crazy to say the least. With my mother ship and Dirk's old girl as he calls it sitting in a container in a yard somewhere in Ulaan Batar we bordered the train bound for the Chinese border for the second time in a week. The train journey down was an interesting start to an adventure of great proportions, the mongols sell 8 tickets to a compartment that only has 6 beds! And of course the mongols sharing our compartment were wise to this hence the reason they all claimed a bed the moment we bordered, great it was going to be a long 15 hours south. After sitting on the hard seats for what felt like an age, eating noodle soup and having some old crusty Mongol man try to lay a kiss on me I had had enough and found refuge and a place to lay in the luggage rack over head, rock hard but I think I managed to get an hour or so sleep. As the the train rattled along in the night I thought about how it was only a week ago I was just out there wrestling the mother ship through the Gobi Ocean and nearly freezing to death, maybe this train option was not such a bad way to go after all!

So there we were back at the border, as we exited Mongolia again I wondered what would unfold would our plan work, Chinese officials were slightly confused wondering why we had a cancelled entry stamp into their country only a week ago, we waited a long time before they finally decided we were no great threat and let us in, Ok step 1 down next was to find our new transport. Into the town of Eronhot we began step 2 and that was to buy a Chinese motorbike! The first shop we entered would be the last, bingo we had found what we were looking for. We picked out 2 brand new Sunik 150 cc motorbikes. The first one Dirk took for a test ride and they are a little different to the Africa Twin, well a lot different, for starters the gears are all down and then its possible to go from top gear to first in one motion, not used to the new gear box system Dirk was flying down the road with speed and went from top to first, the motor screamed a cry of stress and the bike came to a stop, hmm not good, back into the shop with it and it would not start, we quickly decided we wanted another one, that was one destroyed already! So after picking another we eventually had them ready to go. After my short test ride all I could think is this thing is a death trap, all the way across China on this!

Preparing to race across China.

The Vibrating Toothpick

So off we set on our new buckets of shit, no rego, no number plates, no licence, just a bit of scribble in Chinese that was a receipt, what were we doing? We made it out of town about 3 k's and the first problem, Dirks bike was leaking fuel, so we headed back to the shop and they replaced the carb for him. Take 2, away we rode this time making it about 5 k's and again another huge fuel leak, back again, this time they put two fuel filters in for us and cleaned out Dirks new carb as it was full of crap. By this time it was to late to try another attempt, we were defeated for the day and got a bed in a hotel, tomorrow we would try again to leave Erenhot for the third time.

Brand new nothing had fallen off yet, but that was only after 5 k's!

Now the biggest problem we had was the fact that we only had a visa valid for 16 days, not the usual 30 days China usually give, they only issued us with the period that we said we would be there for. In the beginning we thought it would be enough but in time it would be a problem.

So the following day saw us get out of town and across the plains of Inner Mongolia, the roads perfect, long and straight. Wow the bikes what absolute heaps of shit they were, 0-80 in about 1 minute, cruising speed of about 70-80 and viabrate, I could feel the fillings in my mouth rattling loose as the whole bike vibrated beyond belief, that's how they then became known as "The Vibrating Toothpicks"

They vibrated so much that even on day one things started to fall off and not work but there was nothing we could do about it as something new would bounce down the road, what did we expect only paying 563 US dollars a peice, we just pushed on and after a few days we thought all we will be left with at the end is a frame and motor! The first few days saw us pass through an industrial belt of China and mining area, I became depressed, the pollution was horrendous, all I could think is this world has no hope at all, the air was so thick with pollution that it made you choke, the world had just seen China on centre stage with the Olympics but I am sure no one ever thought of what else gos on in China, I really had a negative feel for the country and just wanted out. Every day there was something new, one night we went into a restaurant which was so full of smoke I again nearly choked, but the people lovely, they gave us some beer then took photos of us with their entire family, wives, kids, husbands, then when it came to the bill they insisted we don't pay, nice, then back to the hotel for a shower, so here I was in a open bath room washing myself and I turn around to see a China man taking photos of me on his phone, after telling him you cant do that he took another, hmm strange people as well, maybe he has never seen something as big.........that's my receding hair line of course!!

Always some on lookers, and the hotel I had my nude photos taken!

We arrived in the city of Xi'an, with a quick trip to the Terracotta warriors we pushed on. With our small sight seeing out of the way we pushed the toothpicks hard, talk about lost in translation, it was at times impossible to ask for directions, we would pronounce a town our best Chinese 100 different ways but still they could not understand us. Then the traffic it was crazy they don't look to cross the road as a pedestrian, they don't look to turn left or right, they simply do not look what so ever. On one occasion were flying along Dirk in front of me and there was a truck in the middle of the road going the same way as us, often we would overtake on the inside as it was safer, as Dirk got closer to the truck it decided to vear to the right, Dirk ran out of room as he tried stopping on a machine with not the most best brakes in the world, the truck pushed him right off the road, then where was I to go, I grabbed the brakes hard but it seemed to not do a thing, I needed to stop and stop fast, nope no chance as I slammed into the back of Dirks bike, with the typical crunching noise that goes with indicators and tail lights smashing. We just stood there and laughed our heads off! Another mishap that I laughed my head off with was Dirk was following a Honda civic along a rough road and the car stopped in front of him suddenly to slow for a bump but Dirk could not stop in time again due to the brakes been rubbish, he hit the back of the car denting the bumper, his bike went down but he was ok, but the amazing thing was as he hit the car the car also went over the bump and did not even feel or realise that a bike had just slammed into the back of it, it drove away, I just laughed in my helmet thinking we were about to get in some trouble now. Also the seat foam on my bike became so compressed that after the first hour in the saddle every morning I was sitting on the frame, so now the vibrations really went directly to my spine.

We entered one city and our first problem with the police, a traffic cop stopped us, hmm shit here we go I thought that was the end of our China attempt, an on looker spoke some English and told us we had no plates and needed rego papers, quickly we replied with a few small stories, we said we were told that we did not have to rego our bikes for 30 days after purchase and that we got this permission from the traffic police in Beijing, it worked, then the licence issue we pulled out our International ones which mean not a thing in China and the cop knew this, again we said we got permission from the traffic cops in Beijing, amazing it worked, he let us on our way. Would we make it accross China I thought, seems like I thought that very question alot??

Safe parking in the Hotel.

Time was of the issue so we started trying to get on the expressways which of course do not allow bikes on them. We would approach the toll booths pick a lane and go for it, flying past the booth with a Chinese person yelling out and blowing whistles at us, then we would slip past the boom sometimes not enough room, I smashed my mirror a few times clipping the boom, but the going was good on the expressway that's for sure, and then to get off it we had the same story dodging boom gates and officials. But then of course we pushed our luck to far, one toll we flew through there were two policemen standing there but we flew past leaving their screams disappear behind us, on we went pushing the toothpicks hard, vibrating like hell until 20 minutes later in my mirror the police car appeared, pulling along side me with sirens blaring and one of the cops screaming into the load speaking, shit this was serious, we pulled over and they hoped out, one cop coming at Dirk with a baton, screaming like hell in Chinese with a very mean look on his face, time to play the only card we had up our sleeves, the dumb white man card, off with the helmets turned the situation in our favour once they saw we were not Chinese, the baton was put away and the aggressive look put away as well, they seemed stumped, you could see them thinking shit what now they are not one of us! One tried some English explaining we could not ride on the expressway, of course we knew but after a while we said, "Oh you mean we cant ride our bikes on here?" Meanwhile the other cop was now taking photos of us on his phone, great looked like we would get out of this one. So know here we were riding down the expressway with a police escort, lights a blazing, all the way to the next exit. Once off and some more photos, hand shakes all round and big smiles, away we rode, laughing again. Of course down the road we went until the next entrance back onto the expressway, straight back on we went, seemed we would not get in to much trouble so why not!!

By the time we made it in the south, my blinkers stopped working, my front fairing bounced down the road, head light popped off, uses a litre of oil every 3 days, there fore smokes like hell, clutch slips like nothing else and I started getting punctures, I loath punctures!

Changing a flat without tools, that was a lot of fun!

Making it to Xi'an, about half way.

Road side snack.

Maybe more your taste, dog anyone?

The Gobi Desert, Chinese Officials and a Dwarf!

noreply@blogger.com (Robbo) — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 01:51:00 +0000

This is the story how I ended up in a Ger with a Dwarf!

Ok we left for the Chinese border late in the afternoon, there were three of us, we gave Anna from Poland a lift to the border, we set off and it was absolutely freezing, after covering 250 k's on perfect tarmac it was time to find a place to camp all chilled to the bone we headed for a Ger tucked in behind a wooden fence hoping to pitch the tents out of the wind. Luck has it the family invited us in to thaw by there fire and and even better sleep on their floor.

Day two saw us into the Gobi Desert following the arrow on the GPS opposed to trying to pick one of the many tracks snaking in every direction across the desert. The temperature improved dramatically the further south to China we rode. After a long day we managed just over 400k's and found a camp under the stars of what we imagined to be our last night on Mongolian soil.

The next morning it was a short 50 k's into ZammUd, the border town with China. Immediately Anna found the truck driver that she had hitchhiked with a few weeks earlier, everything was falling into place, he was half Kazak/Mongol so therefor spoke Russian and was able to converse with Anna who spoke some Russian also. Between us we spoke, French, German, Polish, Russian, Flemish and all I had to offer was English and of course the Aussie version, quite useless really!! Anyway luck had it he was heading across the border in his truck in 30 minutes, with not a minute to think about it we loaded the bikes onto the truck. This was an effort, building a makeshift ramp I walked the bikes up with men each side, as I took the second one up the plank snapped, here I was about 6 foot of the ground holding 250 k'gs hoping like hell the plank did not give all the way and squash me, after some yelling and pulling it was in, both bikes strapped down we all bordered the truck for the border. At this point I was shitting myself, what would happen, I did not want to loose another bike, I did not want to head back to Ulaan Bataar, I did not want to be cold again. Out of Mongolia we went, no problems, next China. Unable to go any further in the truck we had to leave the bikes and our driver behind, we had to trust him! We entered into China via a lift in an old Russian jeep, which had a man hiding low in the bike trying to sneak in, all a bit bizarre, China officials went well for me but not so for Dirk, they found his little motorbike camera and questioned him over it, took the SD card from it to view what was on it, eventually they returned it and let him in, we were in China, I could not believe it, now just the bikes to come, I was passing like a tiger in a cage. So here we were, Dirk, Anna and I all sitting by the road side in China waiting for our truck who had all our gear, bags, helmets everything, again I was concerned would we pull it off??

A friend of the truck driver came through the gate in another truck, he gestured to us that our truck was coming shortly, all of a sudden we started to talk about which road to take, how far to go, then a phone call it was our truck driver, he wanted me to go to him at customs! Oh shit what was this, I walked the 500 meters to the customs terminal, into the building I went and gave my best friendly Nihow I could do. One guy spoke English and immediately said, your bikes can not come in. I tried everything, made up stories how one was broken and we could not fly it from Mongolia as the plane was not big enough and we had to transport it to Xian to fly it to Bangkok, they understood but every time the reply was At the moment China is special time, Olympic time, these are the rules! Shit this was it we would go no further, reality set in, I always expected it but to get so close. I tried gesturing a bribe, money for a blind eye, again a No, that was it, at this point I felt I tried everything I could and was finished. I walked back to Dirk and Anna and told them the news. At this point another problem was born, this time when I went to the gate where Dirk and Anna were there was a young policeman wanting to see my passport. I showed him then tried explaining that the customs officials wanted to see the other two people I was with, he simply shook his head, we were not allowed back to the customs building where I had just walked from. So here we were in China, our bikes and bags stuck back at the customs point and a stand off with a policeman, everything we tried he would not let us in. We stood there for half an hour, this whole time the Mongol truck driver needed to get to his job in China but he had our two motorbikes in the back off his truck which were not allowed into China, Jesus what a bloody predicament.

Eventually he saw the light and we gave our passports up to him and went back to customs, not ideal but it was the only way. Now it was Dirks turn to try his negotiation skills, again all efforts met with the same answer, even Anna had a shot but nothing, that was it, we tried but had to go back to Mongolia, the question was could we, we had been stamped out!!

Now it was getting late, our Mongol truck drivers boss was ringing him asking where the hell he was. He had to go, but after talking with the Chinese customs they said we could not ride back to Mongolia, we would have to leave our bikes there and maybe tomorrow or the day after we MIGHT get them back, shit this was not what I had in mind. We talked fast I said no we need the bikes today we take them to Mongolia now! After some thought he agreed and now we had to go with him into China to collect our passports, we all climbed into a Toyota drove to the gate, Anna jumped out, we got our passports, said a quick farewell and left her just standing by the road side in China, for Dirk and I we were taken to Immigration for our visa stamp, they at least only cancelled our entry stamp so our Chinese visa was still valid, then escorted us out the door we entered earlier and pointed us to Mongolia. All this was going on while the Mongol drove his truck with our bikes back to Mongolia, the Chinese customs told him he had 30 minutes to return otherwise he would not enter China today. We stopped a jeep full of Mongols and clammed in, squashed we drove to the Mongol side where we found our truck waiting. With no where to unload our bikes we found two men standing about interested in the commotion, right you two lift I said, we hauled the bikes straight out the back of the truck no ramps no nothing, 250 kg's hitting the ground with a thud, our truck driver bid us farewell but not before we slipped him a considerable amount for the trouble we caused him and then he drove back to China! Holy shit what had just happened, it was all so quick and rushed, so here we were loading our panniers back on wondering will Mongolia let us in? both exhausted and tired of worrying we began to laugh about the whole days events. So into Mongol immigration, we simply said, "China No", the man laughed as if to say yeah you two ain't the first! We were taken up to the big boss's office he quickly took out a stamp, stamped our passport handed them back and that was it, we rode back into Mongolia without our helmets on, looked at each other and burst out laughing, my thought was is this all real, can you believe what just happened. We had enough time to fuel up and get out the road back into the Gobi and find a camp before sunset, pot noodle for dinner, what a day!

I guess it was expected, everyone said I would not make it and I suppose all those people are right, but many people gave encouragement and I thank you all, the thing is I tried and I tried my best nothing more I could do, if I had never given it a shot I would never know, now I do. Been there done that.

As I went to sleep little did I know things would only get even more interesting in the next 24 hours beyond anything I have experienced in the 1 year 11 months and 2 weeks I have been on the road! Remember the Dwarf has not even entered the picture yet!

During the night I woke thinking a car was approaching with its lights on but then I realised that it was a lighten show going on in the sky, hmm it was raining somewhere but as long as not on my tent I was happy. I drifted back to sleep until morning. Day break saw a few clouds in the sky but the ground was still dry, no rain, at least where we were. We set off and for the first 30 k's the going was good across the dusty Gobi tracks. Then it began, a light drizzle in the beginning which was good as it made the sand firmer and stopped the dust. But the rain got heavier and the ground wetter, at times the mother ship began skating across the surface making for a few ring tightening moments, we made it to a small town of Saynshand for some food wet and cold swapping stories with each other of near mishaps of the morning but both managed to keep the bikes upright. It was from this point that it all went wrong, it would be the last time I would see Dirk for the next 24 hours. We set off out of town and decided to take the right side of the train line to follow north, on the way down we had been on the left side, I move a little faster than Dirk and he always tells me just keep going he will get there in the end. After going about 5 k's the conditions were horrible, the ground slippery as ice so I decided to head back toward the train line and swap sides getting back on the side we had come down a few days earlier, I turned my head and through the rain I thought I saw Dirk following in the distance, I found a huge storm drain under the train line and road through it to put me now on the opposite side, away I went the ground was a little higher and the water was soaking in alot better, at times I hit 70 to 80 followed by a huge sideways slide spitting me what ever way the bike wanted to go, making me slow down a little, at times I felt I had no control what so ever, the rain persisted, I was soaked through, freezing cold but it was no place to stop, only I could get myself out of this.

After about an hour and a half I arrived in the next town, 100 k's from the last, I found a small building and walked in, the man in there saw I was frozen to the bone. Without saying a word a Mongol lady got a fire going in the stove and placed a chair in front of it for me to sit, as I shook a huge pool of water formed on the floor beneath me. I thought I would just wait for Dirk who should come along shortly and then push on, the tar road was only 100 more k's to the north, once on that I did not care how cold or late it would be I would just ride all the way to Ulaan Bataar where I new a hot shower would be and a warm be. An hour passed and the fire had almost died out, I was a little warmer but Dirk had still not shown up, I began to worry, I was not keen to stay were I was I wanted to go on, I waited another our and the whole time my fears grew and I really began to worry, it was tough out there in the Gobi but it was only 100 k's from where we left he should have arrived long ago, what had happened, was he OK, had he fallen off, was he out there injured, arrgh I was going mad, what do I do? It still continued to rain, it was about 6 pm by this stage, I had to make a decision for myself, but I could not just leave Dirk out there in hell! I went and filled my tank and started the daunting idea off looking for him but as I headed out, I realised I did not know what side of the train line he would be on and then even if I picked the correct side the tracks spanned a great width through the desert, I did not get far before turning back toward the town, again already soaked through and cold again. I decided I needed to press on, I wanted to go north to Ulaan Batar.

I road out of the town thinking to myself this is crazy leaving him behind like this but I had to look after myself as well, I had to get the hell out of this situation, we were on our own now completely. By now with all the rain the going was extremely tough, Mongolia may be land locked but the Gobi desert had turned into an ocean, so much water on the planes it came over my windscreen and hit me in the face, having to drive with my visor up since it was almost dark and my tinted lens did not enable me to see a thing, the rain whipped in on my cheeks and stung like needles, the wind grew stronger, I was telling myself I need to to keep going I cant stop, there was nowhere to stop, I did not want to be there, where was Dirk. I got with in 40 k's of the tarmac and I could not feel my hands anymore, they hardly functioned on the throttle and clutch, my feet would not work, one thing that did the mother ship it just kept on going through what ever I pointed it at, I asked it not to stop, not now, not out here please keep going but I could not go on, I saw from the corner of my eye a Ger of in the distance through the rain, it had smoke coming from its chimney, that's it I cant go any further, tomorrow is another day, it would have been about 2 or 3 degrees with a chill factor bringing it much much lower, I needed shelter, I rode over to the Ger and prized my fingers from the grips, the occupants of the Ger must have heard the bike and the door opened, there standing to great me was a Dwarf, nothing against Dwarfs what so ever but it made me smile even ion this situation, of all Gers to pick in Mongolia I picked one owned by a Dwarf. I entered dripping wet, frozen to the core again. Again I said nothing I could not cause of the cold and also the fact that I was here and where the hell was Dirk, the thought that he was out there somewhere in this inland sea go me down. Also in the Ger was an old lady and a young boy, they stoked the fire and I started to thore out bit by bit, drying my boots, gloves, jacket, every layer I had on, they cooked me dinner, rice and pieces of mutton served up with lots of hot tea, after dinner I hit the sack straight away completely spent, the wind howled outside and the rain pelted against the walls of the Ger.

One of the only photos I managed to take in this mad adventure but I think the most important!

Morning came and the Dwarf heated up last nights dinner for breakfast, the wind had reduced but best of all the rain had stopped and the sun was out, this gave me a better feeling but I still wounded where in the hell was Dirk. I bid farewell to my host family of the night and hit the Gobi for the last stretch to the tarmac, the rain had soaked away and the going was near perfect, I stretched the legs of the mother ship, ripping a fresh track across the desert. I made the tarmac in no time with great relief, still I frozen through so stopping for fuel the lady at the petrol station saw my state of shivering and invited me in to warm on her hot plate, why not I could wait for Dirk awhile, I figured if he made it to the previous town the night before he should be here any minute. I waited an hour and again nothing, I had come to far to turn around so decided top press on. I continued another 150 k's before the lack of fuel and money made me stop in a town 80 k's out from Ulaan Batar, I had about 100 ml of fuel left and a 50 US note, I set about trying to find somebody to change it for some Turgiks, Mongol money but none would even the bank I found refused so all I could do was wait now for Dirk to arrive, if he was still coming that was.

I waited about an hour and there over the horizon was a sight I was relieved to see, it was Dirk! When he pulled up I we gave each other a hug and I said I thought I would never say this but Fuck am I glad to see you!! We exchanged stories, I was more interested in his, he had fallen off for the second time and once he stopped sliding in the mud he looked back and his pannier was about 20 meters behind him, it had been ripped of in the crash, this took him time to repair it and get mobile again, he made the town I waited in about an hour after I left and he slept there, about 60 k's south of the Ger I was sharing with a Dwarf! Now with some funds from Dirk we filled our tanks and rode the last 80 k's into Ulaan Batar, we were back, I could not believe it, what an adventure it had been just to try the impossible of trying to get into China, its amazing what determination makes you do, I am glad I gave it a go.

Now there has been another plan hatched and all I will say is China has not seen the last of me yet, its not called The Hard Way Home for nothing now is it! Stay tuned.