This project is fast and easy although it will require a bit of digging, But nearly anyone can do this.

There are only a few steps to completing this project, And you will need some materials and a few tools:

Here is a typical list:

• Enough landscaping timbers to go around the bed you wish to complete stacking them at least 3 timbers high, Just measure the length and width of all sides that you wish to install the timbers, In most cases on the sidewalk or walk path will need these timbers if your bed will be placed against the house or a building, You will need enough to go all the way around if your bed will be in the yard and not in contact with a house or building.
• Enough mulch or wood bark to fill the bed at least 3” thick (Length x Width x Depth)
• 24” pieces of ½” rebar (Will be used for stakes to hold the timbers in place) you will need at least 3 for a 10’ft timber
• Roll of “Landscaping Mat” or enough to cover your bed with 36” extra on all sides (If your bed is 3’ x 10’ you will need = 3’+3’+3’ Width x 3’+10’+3’ Length or 144 Square Foot
• Drill with 9/16” wood bit at least 6” long
• Drill
• Extension cord
• Shovel
• Gloves
• Shrubs
• Utility knife or scissors

Okay you are now ready to begin your project, As always make sure that you are physically able to withstand heat, cold and strenuous work and that you always have someone with you in case of an accident.

And always REMEMBER TO CALL: Before you DIG!, There may be buried water lines, gas lines, or electrical lines. Each town has a FREE locate service. Please use this service before you dig!

1. Purchase all materials desired
2. Begin by digging a narrow trench next to the walk way where you wish to install the bed
3. The trench should be at least 6” deep x 6” wide x desired length
4. Save the dirt removed to return to the bed later (If needed)
5. Remove any excessive dirt so that the bed is at least 2” lower than walkway if next to it
6. Lay the landscaping mat out so that it extends 18” larger than the bed itself
7. The excess will be used to wrap the 2^nd stacked timber
8. Guide the mat into the trench you have dug
9. Lay one timber in the trench around the bed
10. Stack the next timber on top of the first one
11. Drill at least 3 – 9/16” holes in an timber 10’ft long (Every 2’ or so) into both timbers stacked on each other (Your drill bit may not go all the way through both timbers, This is okay, After you drill through the top one it will mark the location on the bottom one.
12. Lay the top board to the side (You will use it for a template for the 3^rd board so that all holes will line up correctly
13. Continue to drill out the whole on the 1^st board in the trench
14. Using the 2^nd board, Lay it on top of the 3^rd board and mark the holes by drilling through the 2^nd one again, Remove the template board and continue to drill the 3^rd board
15. Now you are ready to install them
16. Place the 2^nd timber on top of the 1^st one.
17. Drive your ½” rebar into the two timbers in the trench (Make sure the holes are aligned) Leave about 4”-5” of the rebar sticking out of the timber
18. Now pull the landscaping mat up and over the 2^nd timber forcing the rebar through the mat
19. Tuck the excess over the inside of the timber (You are wrapping the two timbers together)
20. Now lay the 3^rd timber on top of the second one
21. Now fill the bed to desired depth with mulch or top soil
22. Plant the desired plants with small hole in landscaping mat (Only large enough for plant stem, root or seed.
23. Make sure that the rebar is flush with the top of the 3^rd timber (For safety)
24. I have attached a few drawings to show the important views
25. Enjoy your weedless flower bed.

Weed Proof Landscaping Bed

Weed Proof Landscaping Bed

Weed Proof Landscaping Bed

1. Purchase the desired exhaust fan from your local hardware store.
2. Most exhaust fans come with a “Template” to correctly mark the hole size and opening in your ceiling. Before marking the hole you will need to ensure that there will be no framing or conduits, wiring etc in your way. You may have to enter the attic to find the proper location for your new fan. (Use caution while moving around in the attic and stay on the framing only)
3. Now that you are sure you have the correction location and are between studs in the ceiling
4. Place your template on the ceiling in the correct area and mark all 4 corners with a pencil
5. Take a small drill bit and drill a hole on each mark (Make sure hole is square with room)
6. Now draw a line from one hole to the next till you have a box shape drawn on the ceiling
7. See diagram below:

8. Carefully cut the opening out with a keyhole or draw wall saw
9. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses to prevent dust from getting in your eyes
10. Remove the piece of drywall from the ceiling and discard
11. The ceiling should look like the figure below now:

12. Next you will install the exhaust fan from the attic space
13. Each exhaust fan comes with adjustable brackets that will span from one rafter/ceiling joist to another.
14. These brackets are very import since they carry the weight of the fan and allow the fan to run without making noise and vibrating.
15. The brackets can be screwed or nailed to the studs
16. Now place the fan and brackets in place and in line with the hole in the ceiling and between the studs, make sure that everything lines up correctly
17. See image below (Attic view of installed fan)

18. After everything is secured in place (Wiring comes next)
19. Make sure that all power is off and you are comfortable with this step – IF NOT STOP AND CALL A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN
20. After wiring is connected test the unit and switch
21. Install the interior cover on the fan
22. Your new exhaust fan should look similar to the image below:

The following images are for quick reference and may assist you in installing your new fan.

Store-bought taco seasoning has three downsides: 1) It’s full of sodium and other additives, 2) It comes in single-serve packs, and 3) You have to go to the store to buy it. Next time, try this homemade version instead for tastier tacos!

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions:

Measure and combine all ingredients in a small bowl, then whisk until evenly mixed.  Store in an airtight container.

To use:

Brown 1lb of meat in a medium saucepan, drain excess liquids, then add seasoning with 1/2 cup water. Cook over medium until the majority of the liquid evaporates.

Kale Chips

Kale might be sliding over to make room for cauliflower at the top of the list for everyone’s favourite superfood, but it’s still delicious and full of healthy vitamins and minerals. Try this easy recipe for kale chips to help curb carb cravings!

Ingredients:

1 bunch fresh kale, washed and chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

1/4 tsp each, chile pepper and paprika

dash of sea salt

Directions:

Preheat the oven the 325F.

In a large bowl, combine the chopped kale and olive oil, tossing to cover evenly.

Spread the kale pieces out on a baking sheet, and sprinkle lightly with spice mix and sea salt.

Bake for 15 or so minutes, until it begins to crisp.

In some cases you may already have the porch posts and only need to add handrails, rails and balustrades. Limited use of electric saws may be needed along with power screw guns.

As in most projects you will need to be familiar with basic tools as mentioned above, and be able to read a tape measure.

The following are basic step by step instructions on how to complete this project. ALWAYS be safe and use the proper protection before doing any project involving power tools and sharp objects.

1. Measure the area that you wish to install the handrails and or posts
2. After you have the total lineal feet desired (Write this number down as LF)
3. Now decide how many post you would like to have (These will be the post that go from the deck or porch surface to the bottom of the ceiling/roof) You will need at least 3 since you will need one to start the handrail, one at the corner and one at the wall you are connecting to, If any length between the post would be more than 8’ft apart you will need to add another one between them.
4. Take you total LF and divide that number by 4’ft (16’ / 4’ = 4) So you will need 4 post
5. Start laying out the design on the porch with chalk to get a basic idea of size ad position
6. You will then determine how close you want your small balustrades apart? In most states they are required to have no more than a 3” gap between them to prevent small children from injury by entrapment.
7. You can purchase ready-made Balustrades at Home Depot, Lowes etc… And are already cut to shape and length. And come in several styles and cost about $1.50 – $3.50 each keep track of how many you will want by dividing the LF of handrail by 6” which would be 32 balustrades.
8. You can also buy “SIMPSON” strong tie connectors and post bases which hold your post securely in place. You will need one for the bottom of each post
9. Post bases are also available to purchase that are already cut to shape with different profiles and designs, (Made for 4” and 6” post) 4” is the most common and easiest to use
10. The handrails or TOP/BOTTOM rails are just typically made of a 2” x 4” board with routed or smooth top corners and are cut to length needed between posts (You will need about 32’ LF of these boards) 16’ for top rail and 16’ for bottom rail. These will be the boards that hold the balustrades in place and secure
11. The only remaining wood parts will be the handrail braces which are cut from a 2” x 4” board to a 6” length. You will need 2 per post and 4 for corner post
12. These braces will be the support for the TOP and bottom rails
13. I have provided a few drawings to show the basic layouts of all parts.

Porch Railings View 1

Porch Railings View 2

The drawing above shows an angle view of the corner style handrail system with 5 posts and they are installed on a 4’ft center and the balustrades on a 4-1/2” center (3” gap between) Notice the small 2” x 4” x 6” wood blocks at the bottom of the post.

Porch Railings View 3

The drawing above shows a 5 post system that is 16’ LF.

Frosted Cupcakes

Cupcakes are inexpensive and easy to make, but making them look professional requires a bit more effort. This recipe is for a classic American buttercream, and the directions are for a basic cupcake swirl. Feel free to experiment with tips and icing flavors for cool new designs.

Classic American Buttercream

3/4 unsalted butter

4-5 cups icing sugar, sifted

3 tbsp cream (optional)

In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter until smooth. Add the icing sugar, one cup at a time, until desired consistency is reached. Add the cream if the icing needs to be creamier.

Frosting Directions

Place cupcakes on a level surface.

Attach a large icing tip to a pastry bag, and fill 3/4 full with frosting. Twist the end to avoid spillage.

Starting in the middle of the cupcake, gently squeeze the bag to get a slow flow of frosting. Bring it to the edge of the cupcake, and gently swirl upwards, like an ice cream cone.

Top with sprinkles, cocoa powder, or candy bits.

Seasoned Croutons

Store bought croutons are so expensive they almost feel like a scam, especially once you realize how easy they are to make. I like to save the ends of bread and stale bread in the freezer until I’ve accumulated enough to make a batch of croutons. Not only do you get delicious croutons for a fraction of the price of store-bought ones, but you cut down on food waste, too.

Ingredients

2 cups cubed stale bread

2-3 tbsp olive oil

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp garlic powder

1/4 tsp onion powder

1/4 tsp cayenne powder

1/4 tsp pepper

Directions

Preheat oven to 275F.

Combine spices in a large plastic freezer bag. Gently drizzle the cubed bread with olive oil, tossing to coat evenly, and add to the bag. Seal the bag and toss the contents, ensuring the bread is well seasoned.

Pour croutons onto a large baking sheet in a single layer, and bake, watching carefully and flipping occasionally, until the croutons are golden brown, about 20-40 minutes.

Before you start you will need the following tools:

• Screw gun (and #2 Phillips head driver bit)
• Level
• Square
• Fine Tip Marker
• Straight edge (4’ft if possible)
• Hammer
• Safety glasses
• Dust Mask
• Utility knife & blades
• Hand saw, skill saw or cordless saw

NOTE: Anytime you are using motorized tools or equipment read all safety manuals, safety information and USE EXTREME CAUTION at all times. Never allow children to play around work area. DO NOT PROCEED IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THE ITEMS SHOWN ABOVE!

You will also need materials of course, How many will depend on the size of the closet you wish to build. But here is a list of the most common things you will need. (This is based on a 2’6” x 6’ closet using existing ceiling and two existing walls.)

I will insert images of our work as we advance for directions and to assist you better in seeing the project before it is completed.

Okay, The most important part of this project is the framing and connections to the existing structure.

So it is critical that you base the size of the closet to match existing framing that you will connect the new walls too. The good thing about “ADDING” a closet is that it can be removed later with very slight damage to the existing walls (Will only require caulking or minor drywall texture to repair)

1. Locate the existing studs in the corner of the room which you wish to install the new closet space. This can be done with an inexpensive stud finder or by lightly tapping the wall with a hammer and listen for a SOLID sound, This means there is a stud directly behind the drywall in that location. (Test the stud location by driving a small nail in the wall and see if you do hit the stud. Once the stud is located measure 14.5” away and try another nail and see if you hit a stud. You may have to try this a few times to find the center
2. The reason the stud location is important is this is the location that you will “CENTER” your new stud wall to so that it will be secure to hold the wall in place.
3. After locating the studs in BOTH walls in the corner, Mark the studs with a pencil for later reference
4. Now using the MARKS on the wall hold a level to the mark, ensure that it is level and direct it to the floor, Draw a light line beside the marks towards the floor
5. Now at the bottom of the wall next to the floor place another mark, This will be the center line of your BOTTOM PLATE studs. (See sample below)

My center lines are 6’ 7-1/4” x 2’ 8-3/8” (Approximate size of closet.

6. These lines match up with the existing studs in the LEFT and RIGHT wall
7. If you have cove base or cove molding (Leave it in place so that the closet can be removed later if desired. You can work around this

NOTICE: See how the marks on the floor match the existing studs in this X-Ray view. This is the best method to ensure that the closet walls will be sturdy

8. Next we will layout the BOTTOM PLATE studs – See below

DO NOT NAIL OR ATTACH THESE PIECES OF WOOD AT THIS POINT

 9. Notice my line marks are now in the center of the two boards laying on the floor. This will line up the two new walls with the studs in the existing walls
10. We will now mark the long board to make cuts for the doorway
11. See the picture below (We are going to use a 2’0” door, which will need a rough opening of 2’2” x 6’9” tall

12. Find the center of the long board and place a mark then measure 1’1” on both sides of it placing a mark on both points.
13. Using your square place a line across the stud to give you a straight line to cut the board for the door opening (See below)

14. Now that the door way is cut you will mark the bottom studs where each upright stud will be installed. Pay special note to the corner board marks above. These need to match the drawing above so that the drywall or paneling will have a stud behind it for attachment in the corners
15. You will duplicate the same pattern of the BOTTOM PLATE STUDS for TWO levels on the top plates, The only exception will be you will NOT cut an opening for the door way.
16. You are now ready to attach the TWO layers of top plates (1 at a time) to the ceiling, Make sure that they are directly in line with the bottom plate studs
17. You are now ready to measure the distance between the TOP and BOTTOM stud plates. Take an additional 1/8” – 1/16” off the wall studs to allow you to stand them between the two plates.

18. Notice there are two smaller studs in the door way, these should be 6’ 7 ½” above the floor
19. Screw each stud in place and make sure they are straight, flush and level
20. Next you will install the header boards above the door way,

21. You are now ready to install the door frame, door
22. After the door way is installed install wall covering such as drywall, or paneling

The following images are for more detailed measurements

Spiced Stovetop Applesauce

Applesauce is great on its own or in baking as a healthy substitute for oil and fat in recipes. Keep the homemade applesauce refrigerated for one week, or store in the freezer to have it on hand when you need it.

Ingredients:

4-6 apples, any variety, cored and cut into large chunks.

1 tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp nutmeg

dash of cloves

2 tsp brown sugar

lemon juice, splash

Directions:

In a medium saucepan, combine all ingredients and give them a quick stir. Cook on low until the apple pieces can be easily mashed down with a fork, about an hour to two hours.

Remove from the heat, and mash down the apples, then strain to remove skins and any spare seeds.