Courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinou/

Taking a taxi in Lima is not for the faint-of-heart. You really have to have a thick skin and an affinity for close calls to even get into one without cowering at the surrounding chaos of traffic. The fact that most of the seatbelts in these cabs don’t work or are missing altogether doesn’t help the matter much either. Aside from the unstable and ungoverned condition threatening the safety of traffic in Lima there is an equally pressing reason to take the road seriously in this city – taxi theft. I find most travel advisories treat the subject with an “it probably won’t happen to you but be warned” attitude without giving any sound advice or tips on how to avoid theft or to at least lesson the chances of it ever happening to you. My intention for writing this blog is deter or frighten travellers from coming to Peru because anyone who has ever been here will tell you it is a fantastic country full of warm people. However like any country it has its share of crime – a reality of which I’ve experienced first hand – and I feel obligated to share what I’ve learned with other travellers with the hope that no one will have to be educated in the art of being robbed by robbers themselves.

Before the Taxi

Courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/hdepereda/

First and foremost, if you have chosen this form of transportation never if possible get into a taxi alone. The saying “safety in numbers” doesn’t always apply in South America, but it does lesson your chances of being robbed and ladies unfortunately we are more of a target especially if travelling solo. Now whether in a group or by yourself, preferably the former, choosing the right taxi is key in getting to point B safely. It is true that you can’t always judge a book by its cover but let’s face it sometimes you can and when choosing the right one always look for signs indicating that the taxi is a legitimate one since there are a large number of posers not regulated by any administrative authority. Always look for the Setame label in the taxi’s windshield which stands for Servicio de Taxi Metropolitano, the taxi service’s regulating operator. Other things to look out for are the car’s licence plate number stickered onto the sides of the car and I’ve noticed there is sometimes a first aid kit attached to one of the back windows. Although everything I’ve just mentioned can be forged and fake, any indications other than just a taxi sign in the front window or on the top of the car is promising. The most reliable indicator however is your own instinct; if something just doesn’t look right to you, it probably isn’t and you shouldn’t get into the car. If you have the money to spend and don’t mind paying double on a recommended registered taxi company check out CMV Taxi Remisse Ejectivo (517-1891), MITSOO S.A. (261-7788) or Taxi Green (484-4001). However if you are an average Jane like myself living in the city and can’t pay 20-25 soles for a 8 sol taxi ride every day then you have to use your judgment. Theft by taxi driver is not uncommon especially from someone trying to make a quick buck on a lonely traveller.

In the Taxi

Unlike North America, cabs in Peru do not have meters so always remember to negotiate a fare beforehand. Talk to your tour guide or even locals about how much it normally costs them to get from one place to another since there are many drivers willing to overcharge the inexperienced and bewildered foreigner. Normally under this heading I would typically advise everyone to lock their doors and keep their windows rolled up, but this may not come in handy in the case of taxi-targeted robberies known as “smash and grabs” whereby someone breaks the taxi window in order to rob the passenger when the taxi has come to a stop in traffic or at a red light. If you have baggage or a purse of any kind place it under the seat and if there are two of you, both should ride together in the back seat rather than one person upfront and one alone in back. In the event that a “smash and grab’’ does occur, never struggle, always give up your belongings. The only thing worse than a thief is an angry one!

Courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/aramk/

Let’s say you were that one in a million who had been robbed by this method and opt for continuing home before reporting the event to authorities, always request for the taxi driver to drop you off away from your house or wherever you are staying (especially if your keys were one of the items stolen!) since a lot of the time taxi drivers are working in conjunction with the robbers. Wait until he drives off before you walk in the direction of home. The number for tourist police in Lima is 51-1-423-3500 (Lima North) or 51-1-243-2190 (Lima South). The local equivalent for “911” in Peru is 105.

I realise most of this is just common sense and that these types of muggings aren’t rampant throughout Peru, but they do happen and it happened to me just when I was feeling comfortable in my new surroundings and when I had least expected it. Almost 3 months ago I asked a Peace Corps volunteer if she had one piece of advice for someone like me who wanted to live in the country long-term and she answered, “Don’t expect anything from Peru, keep an open mind, love it with your whole heart but never…ever…let your guard down.”

Christina Baker writes for the Karikuy Volunteer Program.

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The plane touched down at the Puerto Maldonado airport around 8 in the morning.  My guide and some of the staff from Corto Maltes greeted me upon my arrival.  I met with the rest of my tour group (a lovely family from North Carolina and a couple from Spain) and we headed down to the river.  We took a boat down the river to the Corto Maltes lodge.  I was in complete and utter shock when we pulled up to a gorgeous property with an assortment of beautiful bungalows (with hot water!) After catching up on some sleep in the hammock outside my bungalow, I met up with my group to go on a tour of the plant life in the jungle.  Our guide explained to us about the various kinds of jungle fruits that were only found in the jungle.  We even had that opportunity to eat some right off the trees.  Supposedly 20% of medicines are derived from plants found in the jungle.  We got to experience the plant responsible for certain anesthetics.  After putting it to my tongue, I immediately felt its numbing effects.  He showed us the spikes on a plant that were used in conjunction with bamboo to make a “blow gun” used for battle or hunting purposes.  We were introduced to the strangler vines.  The strangler vine basically grows around trees and eventually overtakes them like a bad zombie movie.  After our tour we headed back to have dinner.

The food at the lodge wasn’t just simply a meal, but a craft.  These dishes were not only delicious, but aesthetically pleasing.  Needless to say I really looked forward to meals!  That night we went out into the boat in search of Caimans.  Caimans are crocodiles that live in the river.  They often times come out at night to hunt.  We were fortunate to see a bunch of them floating in the river.  There are primarily two different species found in the river, those being the white caimain and the black caiman.  The black caiman are much rarer and were previously endangered as they have in the past been hunted for their hide.  We even had the opportunity to hold one when our guide grabbed a small one out of the water.  It was really pretty cool getting a chance to hold one.  Kind of intimidating as it stood there with its mouth wide open exposing its razor sharp teeth, but nonetheless definitely provided a bit of a thrill.

The next day was our river boat tour of the Amazon jungle.  We boarded our boat early and headed off to Monkey Island.  The island itself had even more cool looking vegetation, including different kinds of fruits and of course the animals that eat them. A group of Capuchin monkeys and squirrel monkeys roamed through the trees as if they were expecting us.  They put on a little show for us as they wrestled each other and caught various fruits that our guide threw up to them.  We then continued the trek down the trail to a boat that we took out into the river.  The river itself was beautiful.  It was surrounded by all kinds of exotic looking trees and vines.  We were fortunate enough to see a bunch of caiman throughout the day hanging out in and around the water.  We also saw some wild looking birds and monkeys hanging around in the trees by the water.  Perhaps one of the highlights was the family of river otters that swam past our boat.  According to our guide its pretty rare that they are out in the river at the same time as the tours.

The following day I spent with the Spanish couple and our guide visiting a local jungle village.  We spent a good couple hours watching how they make fire, playing a popular game involving spinning a top in a circular space and finally honing our archery skills shooting arrows at targets in the trees.  The second part of the day we visited a local farm.  This was one of my favorite parts of the trip.  We got to sample a bunch of different kinds of fruits right off the trees!  We tried some oranges, sweet lime, and sugar cane among many others.  I even tried eating a hot pepper against my guide’s advice.  Everyone got to see me turn the same color as the pepper.  Not to worry however, apparently sugar cane naturally reduces the effects of the hot pepper.  Who knew?  We then headed back to the lodge where we had yet another fantastic meal.

All in all I had a great time and learned a lot on this trip.  Definitely something I would recommend to anyone whose up for a jungle adventure.  Definitely recommend bringing some good bug spray and sun block, its gets pretty brutal out there.   All in all, yet another great experience in one of Peru’s most exciting microclimates!

Evan is a volunteer with Karikuy. To learn more about how you can participate visit www.karikuy.org/volunteer

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Once the excitement subsides the differences between old and new become apparent and you begin to feel the onset of homesickness until finally adjustment kicks in and new customs and cultural habits start to seem normal. I think my psyche had the brilliant idea of surprising me with a different stage every day, so that as much as I love this beautiful country there are always days where I find myself negotiating with new customs and reverting to my Canadian ways. But these rare moments of homesickness are almost always short-lived because Peru has a wonderful habit of unexpectedly providing new experiences and her surprising opportunities always convinces me to stay. One of these unexpected moments of beauty was the day I stumbled upon a maestro by the name of Jacabo Chertman in a public circle which I have now given the title “The Circle of Life.”

I had been to this circle before many times in Kennedy Park, Miraflores, but I had not really understood the weight of its alluring effect until about a week ago. A fellow volunteer and I had just finished our stroll down the tourist filled streets drinking our bubble tea that reminded us of home when we decided to check out the crowd of people overflowing the circle. The centre of the night’s attention was maestro Jacabo Chertman. Since neither Frances nor I are well advanced in our Spanish we had to rely on the general atmosphere to figure out why this man had attracted so many people. The audience was made up mostly of older people, all of whom had a look of familiarity with the maestro as if they either knew him as a person or his work in general. There was a poster with his portrait beside the choir with the words “Gracias” and “Adios.” One by one the choir members sang solos in his honour embracing him at the end of each song and during which couples most likely in their 70’s flocked to the heart of the circle and danced the night away. The night was most definitely dedicated to the retiring maestro, Jacabo Chertman and all songs sung and dances danced were done in his honour. He directed the choir for most of the night, however he did grace us with his voice for one song while managing to look each and every one of us in the eye as he sang. Looking around at the circle I noticed that each person in this elderly bunch was soaking up every last minute of what might have been his final performance before retirement and all seemed to have the same look during his performance; a peaceful yet stern, squinted-eyed look of remembrance, of a wisdom that the only five people my age who were present could not understand even if we tried.

Still intoxicated by the atmosphere, I have realized why I find this circle so appealing. There are public places everywhere in the world where people can sit and chat with their friends and enjoy the outdoors or soak in the hussle and bussle of the city life around them, but I have not until now seen a public area that encourages unity in its shape and positions people in a way to make them face one another. A circle is such a simple thing but in this instance it has proved so affective in making people acknowledge one another promoting and facilitating human interaction time and time again. I cannot think of any such lively hub where people naturally flack to of all ages, foreigners and locals alike while sharing in the music of local musicians, or a laugh from a comedian passing through the park or even just a simple conversation with strangers.

Since having taken on this nomadic lifestyle, I have definitely had my fair slice of the ups and downs of culture shock and the traveller’s cycle. But it is truly in simplistic moments like these that reveal the beauty of this culture and a major player in my adjustment has been El Parque Kennedy and the “Circle of Life” which is always full of interesting surprises, opportunities and new people to meet.

Christina Baker is a volunteer with the Karikuy program in Lima, Peru.

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1. Alcalde explores contrasts of life and death in Peru
2. Top 10 Reasons to Volunteer in Peru
3. An Old Instrument New To Me: The Zampoña

Here are the documents most frequently requested by consulates in Lima for tourist visas:

Passport and photocopy – Most embassies will hold on to your passport while processing your visa, so make sure you have enough time if trying to obtain visas for multiple countries. Make sure that your passport is valid for more than six months from your intended time of entry.

Passport photograph – You can take passport photos for a reasonable price around town, including S/.7 for a set of six on the southwest corner of the Plaza de Armas. The prints should be ready within half an hour.

Proof of financial status – A photocopy of both sides of your credit card, along with a recent bank statement, will usually suffice. It is always good to have proof of work, such as a name card or a letter from your company.

Travel itinerary – For most countries, you would need a copy of your plane ticket leaving the country, proving that you do not intend to stay on illegally after the expiry of your visa. If leaving by land, have your final plane ticket back home, even if it departs from another country, ready. This is looked at cursorily by most embassies, but the Uruguay embassy examines this particularly closely.

Hotel reservations – Even if you haven’t decided on a place to stay, some embassies require you to show a reservation. For those who are trying to beat the system, there is nothing stopping one from booking a night at a hostel and then cancelling the reservation after you get the visa. Take note that the Uruguay embassy requires an account of every night you intend to stay in the country.

Yellow Fever Certificate – Some countries require you to possess a Yellow Fever Certificate before entering or leaving their borders. There is a clinic at Jorge Chavez International Airport where you can get the vaccination.

Brazil

Before you leave for the consulate, fill up a form online at https://scedv.serpro.gov.br/frscedv/index.jsp and print out the receipt. There is a computer at the consulate itself where you can fill in the application, but the line may be long. The Brazilian consulate is located about seven blocks west of Kennedy Park in Miraflores, at the junction of Jose Pardo and Jorge Chavez. It is only open for visa applications on Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 9.30am to 12.00pm. Arrive early, for you will need to make a run five blocks back towards the centre of Miraflores to a HSBC branch to make a payment for your visa before continuing with the application process. Fees vary according to country, as Brazil is strict on reciprocity fees as a form of diplomatic retaliation. The application is usually processed within the day, and you can usually collect it after 4.00pm the next day.

Visa-free entry: Andorra, Argentina, Austria, Bahamas, Barbados, Belgium, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Denmark, Ecuador, France, Finland, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Iceland, Israel, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Malta, Morocco, Monaco, Namibia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, San Marino, Slovenia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Suriname, Switzerland, Thailand, Trinidad and Tobago, Turkey, United Kingdom, Uruguay, Vatican City, Venezuela

Documents needed: Passport and photocopy, passport photograph, proof of financial status, travel itinerary, hotel reservations, online application form

Website: http://www.embajadabrasil.org.pe/

Telephone: (51) 1 5120830

Address: Av Jose Pardo 850, Miraflores

Bolivia

The Bolivian embassy is located in San Isidro, near the junction of Salaverry and Javier Prado Oeste. You can take any micro headed west from Arequipa, and walk the one block north on Los Castaños to the embassy. The embassy is open from 9.00am to 1.00pm on weekdays. Upon arrival and checking in at the guardhouse, you’d be required to fill in an application form on site. If all documents are approved, you need only wait about twenty minutes for your passport to be returned to you, stamped with a Bolivian visa. The application is free for most countries.

Visa-free entry: Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Ecuador, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Iceland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Mexico, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, New Zealand, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Slovenia, Slovakia, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, United Kingdom, Uruguay, Vatican City, Venezuela

Documents needed: Passport and photocopy, passport photograph, proof of financial status, travel itinerary, Yellow Fever Certificate

Website: http://www.rree.gob.bo/

Telephone: (51) 1 4423836

Address: Calle Los Castaños 235, San Isidro

Paraguay

The biggest hurdle for citizens of countries that require visas to visit Paraguay is getting a letter of recommendation from your home embassy in Lima. Otherwise, the application is straight-forward, and usually takes about two working days. You are required to fill in the address and telephone number of a contact in Paraguay, so book accommodation before-hand. The Paraguay embassy is open from Monday to Friday between 9.00am and 1.00pm, but it does not process visas on Fridays. It is about a twenty-minute walk from Kennedy Park in the centre of Miraflores, or about five-minutes from the Larco Mar shopping centre.

Visa-free entry: Austria, Belgium, Bolivia, Brazil, Bulgaria, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cyprus, Denmark, Ecuador, El Salvador, Estonia, Finland, France, Guatemala, Germany, Greece, Honduras, Hungary, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Peru, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, South Korea, South Africa, Sweden, Switerland, United Kingdom, Uruguay, Venezuela

Documents needed: Passport and two photocopies, two passport photographs, two copies of proof of financial status, two copies of travel itinerary, two copies of hotel reservations, letter of request from home embassy

Website: http://www.mre.gov.py/es/inicio_es.asp

Telephone: (51) 1 4441310

Address: Calle Alcanfores 1286, Miraflores

Uruguay

Citizens from certain countries require a three-week authorization process before the visa application can be filled in; call ahead to check. If you cannot wait that long, you could write an email to the appropriate Uruguay embassy in your next port-of-call, say Buenos Aires, and ask for permission to file for authorization in Lima, then process the visa itself in the next city. This authorization is very thorough, and requires you to account for your entire journey from the day of application, through your visit in Uruguay, until your flight home, including countries you may visit after Uruguay. Reservation codes, print-outs and tickets are essential. Once the authorization is processed, the visa, which costs US$42, is given in about two working days. The embassy itself is located in San Isidro, not far from the Bolivian consulate. You can take a micro running along Javier Prado Oeste to get here, but it’s a fifteen minute walk in from the main road and a taxi would be more convenient.

Visa-free entry: Argentina, Australia, Austria, Bahamas, Barbados, Belgium, Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Colombia, Costa Rica, Croatia, Chile, Czech Republic, Denmark, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Egypt, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Guatemala, Honduras, Hungary, Ireland, Iceland, Israel, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Seychelles, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, South Africa, South Korea, Sweden, Switzerland, Trinidad and Tobago, Turkey, United Kingdom, United States, Venezuela

Documents needed: Passport and photocopy, passport photograph, proof of financial status, travel itinerary, hotel reservations

Website: http://www.mrree.gub.uy/gxpsites/hgxpp001

Telephone: (51) 1 7192550

Address: Calle Jose D Anchorena 84, San Isidro

Francis Sin is a volunteer with Karikuy. For more information on our 2010 volunteer program go to www.karikuy.org/volunteer

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The night before we were to make our pilgrimage up to Machu Picchu we were informed by our guide of what to bring with us on the last part of our trek.  We were informed that we should only bring what is absolutely necessary for the day because it supposedly got really hot during the day.  Our group was about ten people including myself and the three other Karikuy volunteers I was with.  Over the course of the three days leading up to Machu Picchu we had all become pretty close.  Ranging in age from 20 to 27, hailing from England, France, Germany, Canada and the U.S.  Dinner conversations resembled a U.N. meeting with three or four different languages being shouted across the table.  There was never a shortage of laughter despite all of our aches and pains throughout our trek.  Everyone was hurting, but it didn’t matter.

The scenery during the first part of the trek was beautiful.  Gorgeous views of the mountains above and the rivers below made for some beautiful landscape photography.  The trek itself was challenging in its own right.  By the end of the third day, three of our group members were forced; due to injury, to take the train to a town called Aguas Calientes where we were to meet up and to finish the climb to Machu Pichu.

The park only allows the first 400 people at Machu Picchu to have access to another mountain within the park called Huayna Picchu.  Huayna Picchu we had been told was not to be missed for anyone making the trek as it had some of the most beautiful views in the area.  So beautiful that people started their hike at around 3:45 AM in order to get a ticket to go see it.  This is exactly what we did.  We awoke at around 3:30 AM, dragged ourselves to the center of town where we were to meet our guide.  We waited and waited until around 4:10 AM.  He never showed up.  As a group we decided to leave and go on our own toward the trail.

The trail itself was less of a trail and more of an endless flight of twisting stairs.  At times the inclines were pretty steep and for most of the climb it was pitch black out.  Group upon group moved endlessly forward as we all trudged on toward what was our supposed Mecca that would make all of the pain and sleep deprivation worth it.  The climb was hot and the muggy weather didn’t help.  About three quarters of the climb I got rid of my shirt in hopes it would help me cool down.  My shirt was drenched in sweat to the point where I was forced to ring it out a few times.  It took us about an hour, but we finally made it to the top.  It was at this point the weather had changed dramatically.  Not only did the temperature drop significantly, but about fifteen minutes after we got to the park it started to rain.  We had been informed that this happens nearly every day and that it usually clears up around 10 or 11.  I have only one other article of clothing with me and that is my sweatshirt that I’m hoping will be able to with stand the rain until 10 or 11 when it was to get warm out.

Hungry from the climb, we all devour our breakfasts and wait in line until the park opened at 6.  The park opened on time and we were fortunate enough to gain admission to Huayna Picchu.  Upon entering the park it is grim and dreary weather, the kind you would expect in the background of an Edgar Allan Poe novel.  There is a haze covering the majority of the mountain so thick that you could seemingly cut it with a knife.  We then happened to run into our “guide” we were supposed to meet that morning, whom after half an hour of waiting in the rain took us on our tour.  The tour was decent, but the weather continued to get worse.  Most of us were unprepared for this kind of downpour.  At the end of our tour, the rain continued to get even worse and the temperature dropped even further.  As a group we sought refuge outside the park under a 5’ x 10’ overhang.  We passed some time playing a game while we waited out the rain.  It soon became 9 AM, then 10 AM, and finally 11 AM when we made the decision to go off and see Machu Picchu ourselves.  Unfortunately due to the weather they weren’t letting anyone go up to Huayna Picchu at that time.  My understanding is that it is a somewhat rigorous hike to the top and for safety reasons no one was able to go up.

The weather continued to get worse, but it didn’t matter.  We climbed all over the ancient structure and had a great day overall.  We had our very own hilarious guided tour lead by one of our English group members.  We had a lot of laughs and a really great time exploring despite the weather.  After several hours of meandering through the ruins, we decided to make a return to Aguas Calientes to check out the hot springs and have dinner.  During dinner another group that we had been traveling with told us that they had managed to brave the rain and that the weather ended up clearing by 3:30.  I definitely would recommend to anyone to bring rain gear and some extra layers for the trip.  Afterward I spoke with our guide who said that the weather always clears and I would definitely recommend trying to stay until it does.

So perhaps it wasn’t your classic Machu Picchu experience standing atop its peak overlooking miles upon miles of Peruvian country with clear skies, but I personally can say that I had a great time.  Sometimes it’s the people around you more then anything that really make the experience.

Evan Burawa is a volunteer for Karikuy. For more information about Volunteering in Peru visit www.karikuy.org/volunteer

Related posts:

1. Trip to Cuzco and Machu Picchu
2. The Journey to Machu Picchu
3. Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu

Marcahuasi is the Quechua name given to a plateau 60 km northeast of Lima, one that roughly translates as “the House of the Sovereign”. Exactly who this sovereign is, or what the stories are behind the stone abodes and rock monuments that dot the landscape, most experts have little clue. Some have offered a geologic explanation for the sculpted landscape, while others, such as proto-historian Dr Daniel Ruzo, believe that the rocks, which resemble everything from faces to dinosaurs, are markers left by an ancient civilization, long since annihilated by cataclysms of (literally) Biblical proportions. Ruzo believes the Marcahuasi culture may have encountered Noah’s flood, you can read more about his theories here.

Despite the mysteries that surround the plateau, the visitor can be assured of one guarantee: the awe of standing amidst the remains of a civilization long past, positioned dramatically on a mesa overlooking the Santa Eulalia Valley. The journey up here may very well be the definition of tedious, but the reward for the traveller is an unparalleled vista, the accomplishment of a mountain overcome, and an appreciation for our forebears that we know so little about.

The journey from Lima begins at dawn with a ride (which can be made by micro, colectivo or private taxi) to Chosica, a town on the furthest reaches of the capital territory. From there it’s a four-hour bus up the narrow and winding valley roads, bringing you across the provincial line to the village of San Pedro de Casta in Huarochirí, the base from which travellers start their trek. Coming straight from the sea-level of Lima our group of four decided to spend the night in town to acclimatize, familiarizing ourselves with the strays that roam the cobbled alleyways and the local sugar cane firewater.

Basic is the word I’d use to describe the accommodation at San Pedro de Casta. Our double rooms’ garbage was left uncleared since the last occupant, and running water only came on sporadically in the middle of the night. Put that together with a long day of travelling, a night of alcohol, and one particularly noisy (and also drunk) neighbour, and you’ve assembled yourself a somewhat worn-out team the next morning at sunrise.

It was certainly a blessing, then, that we had on hand a hired donkey to help us with our water and firewood. They weren’t just here for the tourists; these critters (along with their… by-products) can be seen all over the trails leading in and out of town, hauling farm equipment, harvests and bottles of Coca-Cola up and down the valley. Horses were also available to visitors so inclined to make it up to Marcahuasi without breaking a sweat, but I guess I needed some exercise to work off those snacks I’d brought along for the journey.

Rounding the last switchback, one catches sight of the Monument to Humanity, a pockmarked boulder on which one can draw out up to sixteen faces depending on lighting conditions (some are visible only by moonlight) and one’s amount of imagination. Guarding the entrance to the plateau, the monument also looks over a stone hut – our campsite and base for the night. Settling in and unloading the donkeys, it was time to start gathering kindle for our campfire; the temperature drops dramatically at sundown.

Our group cheated a little on the camping experience; we’d brought up cup noodles from a supermarket in Lima. (They did taste great after a day of hiking.) Bringing bottled water, however, was essential. The mountain has close to no water sources, the only freshwater being the stagnant puddle of a pond (toponymically glorified as a lake) fifteen minutes away from camp. It was just as well; water boils at a lower temperature at such high altitudes, complicating the sterilization process were we to use natural water sources.

In the dry season when clouds are few and far between, nightfall turns the sky into a breath-taking myriad of stars, with the Milky Way shining brightly from horizon to horizon. The drawback, though, was the quickly escaping heat, which meant four layers of clothes and a sleeping bag were still short of sufficient from keeping me warm at night. It was a sleepless stay at the mountaintop; between shivering from the cold and blowing my nose from the cold I’d caught, there really wasn’t much time left to sleep off the fatigue.

The rising sun peering through the mountaintop formations was an absolute relief. Breaking camp and warming up with a pot of coca tea, we set off to explore the plateau before heading back town to San Pedro de Casta. The questions one can ask about the civilization that built the huts (and maybe carved the formations) around the hilltop are endless. Were the houses used exclusively for the burials that were excavated? Why take the trouble to come up to this waterless, treeless plateau? Which of the things we see are natural, and which were made by the hand of man? The answers will eventually be answered by archaeologists the like of Ruzo, but in the meantime, one can only marvel at the spectacle of the location and the mystery of its history.

Francis Sin is a volunteer with Karikuy, volunteer positions are still available for 2010, for more info visit www.karikuy.org/volunteer

Related posts:

1. Marcahuasi Part III – The Long Slog!
2. Amazing Marcahuasi
3. Marcahuasi Part I: Just getting there! + Orientation

Until now, Peru has been my larger than life jungle gym having travelled to Cusco at 11,200 ft, and having climbed to Machu Picchu at 7,970 ft and the daunting Pastoruri Glacier at 17,000 ft, all of which left me virtually unaffected and untouched by altitude sickness which is too commonplace in climbing to be avoidable. It decided to postpone itself during the day, letting me think I was invincible, at the very least allowing me to have my fun in the sun until night hit when it hit me with a massive migraine, shortness of breath, back pain, neck pain, basically entire body pain, nausea, sore throat, and the list goes on.

Aside from the fact that I wanted to curl up into a little ball and cry, I was equally curious about what was going on with my body, how soroche works and how I could have prepared if at all for this moment of extreme discomfort. For the person who plans on traveling to high altitudes in Peru or elsewhere or has already done so and is wondering why their head felt like it would explode…this blog is for you.

The Cause

The concentration of oxygen at sea level is approximately 21% and as altitude increases, the concentration of oxygen remains the same while the amount of oxygen molecules are reduced per breath. For reasons unknown to scientists high altitude combined with low air pressure incites fluid to leak from capillaries which ultimately can result in fluid build-up in the lungs and brain. In other words, this is very very bad. The level of oxygen becomes quite low at 8,000ft above sea level and those climbing above this height are likely to experience some form of altitude sickness especially if your ascent is rapid and you continue to ascend without acclimatization. Risk of soroche is increased by the cold, which might explain why I experienced it during the night, since temperature levels drop enormously in Marcahuasi at that time. Simply put, the higher you climb, the less oxygen there is in the air and the more cautious you will need to be of your symptoms.

Symptoms

There are two primary forms of altitude sickness, the first being Acute Mountain Sickness which is milder than the more serious High Altitude Cerebral Edema. These minor symptoms include nausea, fatigue, dizziness, insomnia, shortness of breath, rapid heartbeat, and of course a massive headache all off which I had. HACE on the other hand is an extreme version of soroche involving swelling of the brain and should be addressed immediately if signs occur. These include a persistent headache, retinal haemorrhaging, and over time a gradual loss of consciousness.

Prevention

The best solution I have found for mild altitude sickness is to simply stay put. Acclimatization generally takes 1-3 days at one altitude allowing the body to produce more red blood cells to carry oxygen and thus for depth of respiration to increase. Walking to your destination is best because it gives your body time to gradually adjust to the altitude whereas taking a plane or driving is more rapid and does not give your body the time it needs to acclimate. The acclimatization process is inhibited by dehydration, alcohol and over-exertion so walking slowly and drinking lots of water is essential. There are loads of medications for this problem but if you are as hesitant about pharmaceuticals as I am than I would suggest chewing on coca leaves which Andean people have been using for centuries to cope with the altitude.

I really don’t believe there is anything I could have done to prevent my encounter with soroche. But I quickly discovered that the simple method to dealing with altitude sickness would be walking at a slow pace, chewing lots of coca leaves, a slow decent to lower levels and ultimately acceptance without panic if your symptoms are as mild as mine were. In the end, nature may have won the battle, but it did not win the warJ

Christina Baker is a writer for the Karikuy volunteer program. All volunteer blogs can be found at www.karikuy.org

Related posts:

1. Me vs. The Pastoruri Glacier
2. We Are But Gods Amongst Mortal Men
3. Marcahuasi Part III – The Long Slog!

It was my first weekend in town and sometime throughout the course of the evening the group decided that we were hungry enough for a buffet: an all-you-can-eat sushi dinner offered by Oceanika, a Peruvian/Japanese fusion sushi bar and lounge in the upper-middle class district of San Borja. Opening its doors little over three years ago, the establishment now attracts a sizeable crowd – both from locals and from the expatriate community – for its daily lunch and dinner offerings.

That is not to say the restaurant is easy to get to, though. Located 8 km (5 mi) southeast of the Plaza de Armas and 4 km (2 mi) off the Paseo de la República highway linking downtown with coastal Miraflores and Barranco, it took our taxi driver about half-an-hour (and a great deal of searching and asking around) to finally arrive at the establishment, located on the woody avenue of Paseo del Bosque. For those who end up with clueless taxi drivers, the street – and restaurant – is located directly opposite the Ministry of Defence building in San Borja.

Entering through a narrow passageway that leads off the main street, the entire restaurant comes into sight as you step through the main doors: a large hall with the bar taking up an entire wall, chefs and patrons in full view of one another. For a lounge Oceanika was brightly-lit; it was more the place for social gatherings than one for intimacy. To underscore this point, the television screens were showing replays of the Netherlands-Brazil match played earlier that day, and World Cup promotions were being advertised in the bathrooms. Those looking for more privacy could choose to sit in a more dimly-lit section on the far side of the hall, but the atmosphere can undoubtedly be described as one more communal than cosy.

The drinks menu looked pretty standard for a Limeño bar; Julio and Christina, who were showing me around, ordered a Pisco Sour each. Fourteen soles for a low-shot glass seemed a little pricey for me, though, so I opted for the less exciting option of an Inca Kola. With drinks out of the way, it was time for the reason we had come: the buffet.

Unlike the Japanese buffets I’m used to back home (in Hong Kong and Singapore), Oceanika isn’t a get-up-and-fill-your-plate affair, grounded by the staples of udon or soba noodles. Instead, each patron orders a platter of ten sushis for each round, continuing until, presumably, you’re absolutely stuffed for the night. Our group was ready for the bill after our third round, but I suppose a hungry group could last maybe one or two more orders.

The array of rolls and makizusushis was, to me at least, impressive to the eye: thirty-six varieties listed on three pages of the menu, ranging from standards such as the California roll to more interesting choices such as the “Champignon” (crabmeat, fish, cream cheese and mushrooms) and the “Yakuza” (eel, prawn, salmon and avocado). Most worthy of note are the fusion creations integrating staples of Peruvian cuisine into the Japanese roll:

“Lomo Saltado”: Originally a Peruvian entrée of stir-fried sirloin that was in turn inspired by Chinese cooking, it is here wrapped in a roll with potato bits and smothered with onion sauce.

“Guacamole”: The avocado, native to Central and South America, is churned into a cream topping that just about drowns the sushi underneath.

“Crispy 2”: Avocado slices and a passion fruit sauce are integrated into a makizusushi with the more traditional ingredients of ebi tempura and cheese.

In all, Oceanika was a fun experiment in Peruvian and Japanese cuisine. There are many hits and a few misses (our group wasn’t overtly fond of the shrimp- and salmon- based “Extravaganza”), but the point is to gather a group to try out both new and familiar tastes, and maybe to pig out a little. Oceanika: recommended as the start or end to a fun night out with friends.

Francis Sin is a volunteer with the Karikuy Volunteer Program

Related posts:

1. The Sushi Grub-On at Restaurant Fuji
2. A Revival of Peruvian Cuisine
3. A truly Peruvian experience

So whats a guy to say about a country he’s been in for less then 24 hours. Well lets see… So here’s the rundown of my epic journey. So I arrive at the Lima airport circa 8:30 that evening. Having slept for two hours the previous night after a night of excessive adult beverage consumption and a day of traveling trying to chemically restore myself via copious quantities of caffeine, I was feeling like a bigger mess then Courtney Love’s career. Completely disoriented I stumbled my way toward the baggage area where in my lethargic state thought it would be a good idea to rent a phone for the month for ten bones. So I now can receive free international calls for the next month! If anyone feels like chatting it up, feel free to email me and I’ll give send you my digits. So I continued on my way toward the exit where I was greeted by Julio and Anna from Karikuy. We are chatting for awhile when Anna asks where I’m from. Long story short, it turns out that Julio and I went to the same high school…. At this point I’m convinced I’ve completely lost my mind. It is at this point when we leave the airport with Julio’s uncle that I get my first true impression of Lima. Traffic. To give you some idea of what my ride to Julio’s place looked like, I filmed it and put it on youtube… enjoy….

There is no word that can describe the pandemonium that is the Lima traffic system. We get to the Karikuy Bed and Breakfast where I am greeted by “Killer” who is Julio’s dog. After unpacking and meeting Christina, one of the other volunteers, we explored the local scene. The area of Peru where we are staying is called “La Planeta”. It apparently has a reputation for being a rough area, but has cleaned up a bit as Peru’s economy has continued to grow. The first thing I noticed when we went out at probably around 10 PM on a Wednesday was that there were actually people out! Not just a few people, but like a lot of people! Young people, old people, everyone! Kids were playing on the sidewalks, adults hung out and chatted over a snack. It was while observing this that I was introduced to my new best friend… the hamburger man! He literally stands outside his house and makes a myriad of burger variations for less then 1 dollar. So we pickup some burgers, a bottle each of rum and Coca Cola and made our way back to the house. After a card game, some Miley Cyrus remixes and a couple empty bottles later my first evening in Lima was complete.

This morning I woke up to the soothing sounds of power tools and Andean flute music (a surprisingly melodic combination…) Julio and I had breakfast with his Aunt and cousin. Julio then set me up with a Perupedia account so I could start work on the site and gave me access to this here blog. After doing some research earlier in the day we made our way to center city to check out the Plaza de Armas. The architecture around the plaza was beautiful. The churches are perhaps some of the most elegant looking buildings in the area. We visited the “Iglesia de La Merced” on our way to the Plaza. The inside had several ornate biblical scenes elaborately decorated with more gold then Lil Jon’s mouth. Just as I was about to take a picture I was approached by an old women who tried to give me some religious literature and convince me of something in Spanish. At this point I played the dumb American card and Julio got me out of there. We then checked out the Plaza de Armas where people were hanging out. It was a beautiful little area with a large fountain in the center. They had a stage setup near the plaza where they were doing a “Fan Fest” for the World Cup. Afterward we went to a bar where I had my first “Pisco Sour”. Pisco is a type of liquor that is distilled from grapes and is widely consumed in Peru. The Pisco Sour is made with lime, egg whites, and syrup and sometimes other ingredients. It was after I had my first one that I realized why it was so popular. It tasted delicious and even after having one I was feeling pretty good. We then made our way back to the house where we had dinner with Julio’s aunt.

Meals are an important part of the culture here. We eat three meals a day here at the house. Julio’s aunt does most of the cooking. Breakfast is usually pretty light, consisting of rolls, a fried egg, avocado and tea. We usually eat between 10 and 11. Lunch is traditionally the biggest meal of the day. The feast usually consists of soup (noodles, vegetables, beans and with the option of adding fried corn), homemade fresh juices (delicious!), and a main course. The main course usually consists of rice, yucca (similar to a potato), vegetables and chicken. Lunch is usually followed by a break in the day where we finish up some work, watch soccer or just hang out. In the evening, dinner is usually a smaller portion of that days lunch. As for late night snacks, some vendors are open as late as midnight during the week and even later on the weekends.

So I think that will do for me folks. I have quite the travel schedule coming up and its looking like this:

June 22 -- June 29: Machu Pichu and the Inca Trail

June 29 -- July 2: Lake Titicaca

July 8 to 11 -- Puerto Maldonado (The Amazon!!!)

Make sure to stay tuned and follow the adventures of Ev and the rest of the Karikuy squad as we adventure through Peru! Tonight we head over to the Avocado festival and karaoke night! You’ll never think of “Total Eclipse of the Heart” in the same way again… I know I wont. Adios por ahora!

Evan Burawa is a Volunteer with the Karikuy Organization

Related posts:

1. Killer Pisco Sours and Karikuy
2. Volunteer with Karikuy
3. Karikuy 2010

As the sole survivor of the first month of volunteers and the only one left to tell the tale, I feel it is my duty to write a blog about our week-long Inca Trail adventure. The grandeur and beauty of Machu Picchu is world renown  but can sometimes be overwritten about and in many accounts lacks the challenges of the journey which are all too important and often overlooked. From my own personal experience I have learned that the journey is far more noteworthy and important than the destination itself. Yes, this is the biggest cliché of all time but in a world of clichés we lose focus of their messages and their messages are just as important today as when they were first said. So here is my account of our journey to Machu Picchu and the challenging yet rewarding experience it was.

The first day consisted of a scenic three hour bike ride through the Andes, mostly down hill. Aside from Anna flipping her bike and another biker riding into a cliff, there were no interruptions in this peaceful portion of the tour. Luckily the first half was paved, but for the second part we had the pleasure of riding over the rocks and debris of construction along with mud holes, enduring the shock for a good solid hour. Once we had arrived at our base, some of us decided to keep the adrenaline rush going and try water rafting for an extra 35 US or 71 soles, a much needed cool-off from a long day of biking. Note to self: always wear bug repellent when in Peruvian bush and when at dusk. I managed to survive with only 100 bites on my feet, my new German friend on the other hand…not so lucky. What really made this day worth all the bug bites though was when our rafting instructor flew out of the raft in the midst of a level 3 rapid. I will never forget the look on our faces and paralyzed state of disbelief that delayed our rescuing him by a good 30 seconds. He’s alive. Needless to say, it was an action packed first day.

The theme of day two however, would have to be “intense pain”. After we happily united as a team by painting our faces with random tree juice, we began to ascend the mountains and it was all up-hill from here, literally, for about three hours. It would have to be the most informative day out of the 4 as we learned an enormous amount of information about the local produce and Incan history from our trusty guide Leo. We climbed and climbed and climbed some more, soaking in the surreal scenery of the valleys until we reached the most relieving and much needed oasis of hammocks and our delicious pasta lunch. Our few moments of rest were cut even shorter since there was still much trekking to be done, in fact there was another hour of straight uphill trekking to be exact. With red sweaty faces, sunburns and mosquito bites galore we finally hit the road for two hours where good conversation and much needed level-walking was had by all. The level of intensity and exhaustion we felt on day two is really hard to relay to someone else who hasn’t experienced it, but was surely evident in our swollen feet, our spotted legs and scraped up arms.

Day three on the other hand was much less horizontal and there were many highlights and mess-ups along the way. But I think for the sake of time and space I will skip to the last. Day Four was the big day, the day we had all been waiting for, the day that would make our swollen ankles, the early wake-ups, the killer climbs and bloody bug bites all worth while. So we woke up at 3:30 am to wait in line for the earliest bus to Machu Picchu at 5:30 so we could get one of only 400 tickets to climb Huayna Picchu and see the site in all its glory. We were successful in this since my ticket number was lucky number 340. But as I would soon discover my ticket would go unused as we spent the next 7 hours in the grey fog that prevented us from seeing more than 20 metres in front of us, leaving the 40 minute long anticipated climb unconquered. So there we stood amongst the ruins with our guide; drenched, soaked to the core, raindrops dripping down our faces and without shelter until the end of our tour. At this point I expected everyone to become discouraged as I myself was heading in that direction after a long journey of unexpected mishaps and injuries. But this was not the case with Team Leo. We decided not to let the weather get the best of us and to trudge on despite our water-damaged cameras, our soaked underwear, swollen ankles and the fact that we were as cold as icicles. I squeezed the water out of my passport, embraced my water drenched clothes, bought myself a ridiculously expensive poncho/garbage bag and head out to the ruins in the pouring rain for a second time. There we were given the most memorable fake tour by one of our Team Leo members and spent the rest of the day playing in the rain and mud as if we were kids again in an Incan castle.

I hate cliches, but my confidence in this one has been reinstated. Yes Machu Pichu was the goal, but getting there was much more fun despite the hardships. If you expect the most out of the end, you miss the value of the experience along the way. Would I do it all again?… In a heartbeat.

Related posts:

1. Conquering Machu Picchu
2. Trip to Cuzco and Machu Picchu
3. Machu Picchu