The Knitted Raven

Another attempt at a coat for an odd shaped wee dog

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Thu, 02 Apr 2026 14:39:00 +0000

Our wee dog is quite elderly, but still enjoys a good walk. This means she needs outwear. The search for something that is actually warm and fits has been a challenge. We purchased different items only to be very disappointed at the quality and fit. I tried making several as well, using existing patterns as a guide.

The first couple were made of wool, so they were warmer, but the design didn't suit her anatomy. Even the best version I came up with stretched. The longer section never stayed in place, eventually got walked on, and somedays it ended up as a kilt around her waist. (But can I say she really rocked the look?)

After Christmas I was determined to make something better. I was inspired by the shape of a dog coat by DROPS Design 102-40. Since I had worsted weight yarn in my stash and an odd shaped wee girl to fit, I opted to make mine an improv project. If you fancy a sized pattern, sized for common breeds, I recommend you check it out.

Initially, I had a front that fastened but that seemed unnecessary so I eventually sewed it together but kept the button closure as a faux-feature. I added a strap knit at a tighter gauge and sewed it to the back section. I secure this with a safety pin so it will be forever adjustable for her.

So far, it is working out better than anything else I've tried. And little Bella couldn't be more pleased with it.

Here are my pattern notes in case you are interested.

Pattern Notes

I used Patons Classic Worsted for the body (ivory - MC) and some scrap DROPS Nepal for the accents and straps (pink - AC). Note, the coat is made in a double strand of yarn while the strap in made from a single strand. The amount of yarn you will need is dependent on the size of your dog.

I arrived at the number of stitches for my cast on based on my swatch and the width that seemed to work for Bella. I used the same swatch to help decide how big the back piece needed to be at the neck in order to have sufficient stiches to make the right and left sides. Once I knew how many stitches I needed to increase, I looked at the rows per inch needed to get my desired length, and figured out my increase rate from there.

This is not an exact process. You can increase rapidly like I did and then just stop when you get the desired width and work those stitches until you reach the length you want. Make a swatch, measure your dog and try it on them frequently and you should be fine.

Needles: 6.5 mm for the coat and 5 mm for the strap.

With two strands of the MC, cast on 15 stitches and knit 2 rows of garter stitch. Starting on row 3, begin increasing two stitches every other row as follows:

Odd rows: k1, yo, k to last stitch, yo, k1.

Even rows: knit (twisting the yo from the previous row before knitting).

Repeat the last two rows until you have 33 sts on the needle, ending with the RS of your work facing.

Continue working in garter stitch until piece measures 25 cm.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: k13, cast off 9 sts, k to EOR. The remaining stitches will be worked separately to form the left and right sides of the coat. The 9 stst you just cast off are the back of the neck hole. You will take your measurements from this row.

Left side:

Next row: knit

Next row: k1, ssk, k to EOR.

Repeat until 9 stitches remain on the needles with RS facing. Work in garter stitch about 12 cm (or until your have a piece that crosses over slightly at the front of your dog's chest) from neck edge and cast off knit-wise.

Right side:

With the WS facing, join yarn and starting at the neck edge with WS facing, knit to EOR.

Next row: k to 3 sts remaining, k2tog, k1.

Repeat these two rounds until 9 sts remain with RS facing. Work in garter stitch until 12 cm (or until your have a piece that crosses over slightly at the front of your dog's chest) from neck edge cast off.

Embellishment: (optional) After several past coats stretching more than expected, I opted to add a crocheted edge around the whole garment, using a single strand of worsted weight yarn and a 4 mm crochet hook. This is not absolutely necessary of course. I used the edging to make a loop for hooking around a button as I thought this would be more stable than a button hole. In the end, I sewed the left and right pieces together and so the loop isn't really necessary.

Using a single strand of a contrasting worsted weight yarn, do single crochet around the edge of the garment starting at the right side top edge. Once you've worked your way around, work a series of slip stitches across the top right edge and place a chain-6 loop in the middle of that edge. Continue slipped stitches to the left corner of that piece.

Strap:

Using 5mm needles and a single strand of worsted weight yarn, cast on 7 stitches. Work in moss stitch until about 52 cm long (or until you have enough to wrap comfortably around your dog's middle with length to spare for securing). Cast off. Sew the strap to the back at about waist level for your dog. Leave the remainder dangling free to wrap under the dog when wearing the coat.

I decided on using a safety pin to secure the belt for now as I expect it will stretch.

Let me know if you decide to give this a try. Happy knitting!

Knitting as a form of protest and solidarity

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 02 Feb 2026 18:19:00 +0000

Last week, a post showed up in one of the knitting groups I participate in on Facebook describing where to find a pattern for a "Melt the ICE" hat pattern. Like many people, the pattern maker has been moved by the violence unfolding in Minneapolis and wanted to offer a paid pattern for a protest hat geared to raising funds for charities that serve immigrant groups there.

This is not the first time patterns have been offered up in recent times as a form of protest and solidarity. Several years ago "pussy hats" emerged in solidarity with protests against Donald Trump's abysmal treatment of women. These were simple hats, knitted in pink yarn, in all different yarn weights, all identified by color and shape.

Similarly, during WWII in occupied Norway, citizens wore red pointy hats in protest against this occupation and in solidarity with Norwegian identity and folklore. The red hat was adopted as it was associated with the Nisser or house spirits of Norwegian folklore that could be courted to bring good luck and good fortune to a home, or aggravated and risk misfortune and mayhem. Red hats became so visible in Norwegian society that the Nazis outlawed them.

The "Melt the ICE" hat was a simple pointed hat shape. I had several skeins of fingering weight yarn in my stash so I happily bought a copy and promptly knit one.

As knitters often are, this exercise inspired me to come up with my own pointy hat pattern. I decided to broaden mine by naming it the Protest Hat. If you are against racism, white supremacy, fascism, unbridled capitalism, climate degradation and exploitation, militarism, colonialism; if you support social justice, climate justice, equality, fair taxation and distribution of wealth, etc. - and wish to stand in solidarity with ordinary people EVERYWHERE, then this is the hat for you!

Still maintaining the pointed shape and color associated with the Norwegian Nisser, I wanted to offer a free pattern to encourage people to donate to their local organizations that help vulnerable people in need as these are often the first casualties in the rise of right-wing extremism.

As worsted weight appeals to newer knitters as well as those short on time, the first version of this pattern uses this weight. Feel free to use this pattern and to share it, but please ensure you ask people who use it to make a donation of money, time or in kind to a local charity that serves vulnerable people in their community.

The Protest Hat

Materials: 1 ball of Patons Classic Worsted Yarn, 4.5 mm needles (I started on a short circular and ended with double pointed needles), tapestry needle, scissors. You will use between 120 and 125 yards at the given gauge and size.

Gauge: 16 sts and 28 rows equals 4 inches or 10 cm on 4.5 mm needles, in stocking stitch.

The instructions below will yield a women's L-XL hat or a men's L hat. To make a larger hat, I'd size up to 5 mm needles and adjust the plain knitting in the body as needed. To make a smaller hat, I'd go down to size 4mm needles and adjust the plain knitting accordingly.

Instructions:

Cast on 96 stitches. Join in the round being careful not to twist the stitches.

Rounds 1 - 4: (k2, p2) , repeat to end of round (EOR).

Then begin the decorative ribbing. (If you wish to omit this, continue ribbing until 3 inches in length has been worked - about 24 rounds from cast on.)

Round 1: (k2, p2), rep. to EOR.

Round 2: (k1, yo, k1, p2), rep. to EOR

Round 3: (k3, p2), rep. to EOR.

Round 4: (sl1, k2, psso the two knitted stitch, p2) rep. to EOR.

Complete these rounds a total of 5 time. On the last round, place a removable stitch marker every 16 stitches (six including the BOR marker).

Next round: (ktbl, k to 1 st before the marker {M}, ktbl, slip marker {SM} ), rep. to EOR.

This round will be repeated and is considered the "plain knitting" section of the hat. You may wish to adjust how many rows you complete like this to personalize your fit. The ktbl creates a twisted knit stitch. By twisting one stitch on either side of the stitch marker, you are creating "ribs" for the six panels of the crown of your hat.

Continue working for 15 rounds.

Decrease Round 1:

Round 1 (ktbl, ssk, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, ktbl, SM), rep. to EOR. (12 sts decreased)

Rounds 2-5: (ktbl, k to 1 sts before M, ktbl, SM), rep. to EOR.

Repeat the last 5 rounds two more times (total of 36 sts decreased - 60 sts remaining)

Decrease Round 2:

Round 1: (ktbl, ssk, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, ktbl, SM), rep. to EOR

Round 2-4: (ktbl, k to 1 sts before M, ktbl, SM), rep. to EOR.

Repeat the last 4 rounds two more times. (36 sts decreased - 24 sts remaining)

Decrease round 3:

Next round: (ktbl, k2tog,ktbl, SM), rep. to EOR. (6 sts decreased - 18 sts remaining)

Round 2-4: (ktbl. k1, ktbl, SM), rep. to EOR.

Next round: (k2tog), rep. to EOR.

Break yarn and draw through remaining 9 stitches, secure end. Weave in end from cast on.

Abbreviations

BOR - beginning of round

EOR - end of round

k - knit

k2tog - knit 2 stitches together

ktbl - knit next stitch through the back of loop

M - marker

p - purl

rep - repeat

SM - slip marker

ssk - slip next two stitches as if to knit, k into the back of both sts

st - stitch

sts - stitches

Comfort Knits: Bed Mittens

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Tue, 13 Jan 2026 00:06:00 +0000

I have always preferred sleeping in a cooler room. In winter that sometimes means I wake up with very cold hands as I tend to sleep with my arms above the covers.

After Christmas I decided to address the problem by knitting what I am calling "bed mittens" - fingerless mittens specifically for wearing at night. I had some DROPS Baby Merino in my stash and decided to have a go at making a pair. I also tried making a pair from a ball of DROPS Fabel on 3 mm needles and it worked out well too. These will be worn during daytime hours. This yarn was chosen because of its durability and ease of washing.

Fingerless mittens are basically a tube with a thumb gusset. I decided to make the wrist portion of my first pair a little longer as I have long arms and my nightgown sleeves often leave a gap of forearm showing. The pattern will be for bed mittens with a shorter wrist (see picture of the off-white pair for size) to ensure you can get a pair from a single ball of Baby Merino.

The stitch pattern used is a four row repeat of a mock cable that reminds me of barnacles (hence why I call it the Barnacle Stitch). It is a lovely ribbing pattern and looks far more complicated than it actually is, is easy to memorize and the four row patterns repeat makes keeping track simple as well.

Note: If you prefer to make a set using straight (k2, p2) ribbing, that would also work. You would rib to the desired wrist length, then follow the instructions for creating the thumb gusset and thumb, omitting any references to the stitch pattern.

Gauge is 24 stitches and 32 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) on 3 mm needles for DROPS Baby Merino. I used 3 mm needles for the second pair I made using the Fabel and this worked out well. The fabric was a little lighter, but is perfectly serviceable.

Tools: 3 mm double pointed needles (DPNs) or a small circular needle ( I used DPNs). Tapestry needle, small scissors, measuring tape.

The pattern is much the same regardless of size (Women's S-M) and (Women's M-L). All that changes is the number of stitches. The length of the wrist and hand portions are easily customizable, though this will impact the amount of yarn needed.

Abbreviations/skills required:

k - knit p - purl yo - yarn over sl - slip the next stitch psso - pass slipped stitch over

CO - cast on BO - bind off PM - place marker SM - slip marker M - marker

TWk - twist the yo made the previous round before knitting it; this will eliminate the hole. Alternatively you can increase one stitch by doing a kfb - knit into the front and back of the next stitch

Pattern

CO a multiple of 44 or 48 stitches on 3 mm needles. distribute across three needles and join in the round taking care not to twist your work.

Set up rounds

Round 1: p1, (k2, p2) to last stitch, p1.

Rounds 2 - 4: as round 1.

Commence Barnacle Stitch Pattern as follows:

Round 1: p1, (k2, p2), repeat to last stitch, p1.

Round 2: p1, (k1, yo, k1, p2), repeat to last stitch, p1.

Round 3: p1, (k3, p2) repeat to last stitch, p1.

Round 4: p1, (sl1, k2, psso, p2) repeat to last stitch, p1.

These four rounds make up a pattern repeat.

(The picture to the left shows a close up of the Barnacle Stitch Pattern - 4 pattern repeats)

Complete seven pattern repeats (or to desired length) ending with a round 4. You will now set up and increase two stitches every second round until you have 14 stitches for the gusset, while maintaining your stitch pattern. You start with the first and last stitches in the round, and increase (six) or (seven) stitches on either side of these two stitches.

1. Next round: k1, yo, PM, continue in pattern, completing round 1 of your stitch pattern, until you get to the last p1 stich. PM, yo, then k1. (Note: if you increase by doing a kfb, there will be no need to twist stitches in rounds 2 and 4.

2. On pattern round 2, you will k to the yo made in the previous round on needle 1, and TWk, SM, and continue as for pattern round 2, until you come to the M. Then SM, TWk, and knit to the end of the round.

3. On the third pattern round, you will knit to the M, yo, SM, then proceed in pattern round 3 to the second M. SM, yo, k to the end of the round.

4. On pattern round 4, you will k to the yo made in the previous round on needle 1, and TWk, SM, and continue as for pattern round 2, until you come to the M. Then SM, TWk, and knit to the end of the round.

Every pattern repeat you will increase 4 stitches. Continue increasing until you have (12) or (14) stitches between the markers. This will require 3 pattern repeats for the (S-M) size. For the smaller size, you will stop increasing after round 1 on your third pattern repeat, but will continue until the remaining three rounds are almost completed. (M-L) will do the last increase on the third round of the third pattern repeat.

NOTE: On the third pattern repeat, on round four, work to the marker but do not work across the final seven stitches. Slip the last seven stitches from needle 3 and the first seven stitches from needle 1 onto small stich holders, two safety pins or on waste yarn. CO two stitches onto the end of needle three, and begin working across needle 1, closing the gap as you go. Continue on in the stitch pattern beginning with a round 1.

Complete seven pattern repeats (or to the desired length less 1 cm) ending with a round 4. Complete with ribbing as follows:

Round 1: p1, (k2, p2) to last stitch, p1.

Rounds 2 - 4: as round 1.

BO . Be sure not to make the bind off tight.

Thumb : slip the 14 stitches reserved for the thumb onto 2 DPNs. Join the yarn and knit across these stitches, then pick up 4 stitches across the gap at the top of the thumb gusset. (TIP - I often pick up two more stitches than I need, then decrease on the second round. As well, if there is excess slack between the stitches, I will pick up the yarn between two stitches, twist it (to avoid making a hole) and then knit it together with the next stitch.)

Work to the desired thumb length (less 1 cm). Then complete four rounds of (k1, p1) ribbing and BO.

Both mittens are identical in shape - there is no left or right. Weave in ends.

The picture to the left shows a bed mitten made of DROPS Fabel.

Getting Back to the Basics

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 01 Sep 2025 14:36:00 +0000

I was recently invited to participate in a gathering of aspiring knitters and crocheters. The idea was that experienced knitters and crocheters would share their skills and knowledge with people wanting to learn. I was immediately hooked (pun intended) and started cooking up a couple of basic projects for first time knitters.

Given that Christmas is closer than we think, I considered a couple of simple projects using garter stitch rectangles that could become holiday gifts. I pulled out some worsted weight cotton yarn from my stash and got working on the possibilities. The two simple patterns below are the results. They are an evening's knitting for more experienced knitters and will provide quick results to those giving knitting a try for the first time.

Garter Stitch Bath Mitten

For years, I used one of those awful plastic poufs in the shower. As it started to look ratty after many years of use, I decided to make myself a bath mitten. It was fairly plain and humble, but it was a serious upgrade from what I was using before. I did my own using circular knitting so I decided to rethink it using a basic rectangle shape and this is what emerged.

I used a series of yarn overs and k2tog along one edge to give the plain garter stitch a small upgrade, but this is a flat knitted project.

Materials: worsted weight cotton yarn (at least 60 m)

Tools: scissors, blunt end large-eye needle, 4 mm knitting needles. (3.5mm crochet hook if making the optional decorative hanging cord.)

Gauge: 17 sts and 36 rows equals 4 inches (4.25 sts and 9 rows equal 1 inch). I encourage everyone to make a gauge swatch. If you have too many stitches, increase your needle size and try again. If you have too few stitches, decrease your needle size and try again. Once you know how many stitches per inch you are making, you can take your hand measurement and ensure you are casting on the right number of stitches.

Size: To fit a palm of approximately 8 inches in circumference, I will need: 8 inches x 4.25 stitches per inch = about 34 stitches. The mitten will stretch when wet, so we want it to be a little smaller to ensure a good fit. To do this we will reduce the stitch count by 2-3 stitches. Since we will lose a little width sewing the mitten together, we will go with a reduction of two stitches.

Pattern

Cast on 32 stitches.

Knit 6 rows (3 garter stitch ridges).

Next row: (RS) k2, *(yo, k2tog, k1 ), rep from * to EOR.

Next row: knit

Continue in garter stitch for 6 more rows. Place markers at the beginning and end of the row. The knitting below these will be the wrist section. Everything you knit from this point will be the body of the bath mitt.

Continue knitting every row until the body of the mitt just reaches the tip of your longest finger. Cast off, leaving about 24 inches of yarn for sewing.

Finishing: Fold the rectangle lengthwise. Sew across the top catching the cast off edge stitches, then sew back across the top again ending where the stitching began. Next you will sew down the long side to just above your thumb joint. You can use a decorative stitch or a plain whip stitch. Do not break the yarn. Make several whip stitches to reinforce the top of the thumb hole. Weave the yarn through the edge of the gap needed for the thumb hole. Where the thumb hole ends, make several whip stitches to reinforce, then continue your stitching to the bottom. Secure all remaining yarn ends.

Optional: Using a 3.5 mm crochet hook, chain 80. Thread the resulting cord through the eyelets near the bottom edge of the bath mitt. Knot the ends together to create a loop to hang the mitt. Alternatively, you could thread cotton cording, braided yarn strands, or other decorative rope through the eyelets.

Garter Stitch Washcloth

As basic a project as a washcloth is, it is a one-size-fits-all gift. Wrap it up with a lovely bar of soap and you have the perfect gift for a teacher, work colleague or stocking stuffer for a family member.

Materials: worsted weight cotton yarn (around 60 m)

Tools: scissors, blunt end large-eye needle, 4 mm knitting needles, (3.5 mm crochet hook if making the optional loop for hanging.)

Gauge: 17 sts and 36 rows equals 4 inches (4.25 sts and 9 rows equal 1 inch) using 4mm needles.

Pattern

Cast on 35 stitches for a washcloth about 8 inches wide. (4.25 sts x 8 inches = 34 and I added one more for pattern symmetry.)

Knit six rows of garter stitch (3 ridges) - that is, knit six rows.

Next row: k3, * (yo, k2tog)* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, k2.

Knit 58 more rows ( or 7 rows less than your desired length).

Next row: k2, * (yo, k2tog), repeat until 2 sts remain, k2.

Knit 7 more rows. (72 rows completed from cast on.)

Cast off.

Optional - make a hanging loop: Cast off all stitches until only one remains. Slip this stitch onto a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Chain 24 stitches. Loop the chain back to the beginning and slip stitch into the corner of the cloth.

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on/cast off

k - knit

k3 - knit the next three stitches

k2tog - knit the next two stitches on your left hand needles together

yo - bring your working yarn in front of the right hand needle, and pull it back over.

sts - stitches

I finished that shawl and knit more!

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 09 Jun 2025 18:08:00 +0000

I am in love with the Closer to You Shawl by Justyna Lorkowska! It is a fantastic free pattern available on Ravelry and I can't recommend it enough. Not only is it a very satisfying knit, it is also very easy to style and wear.

This one was knit with DK weight yarn on size 5mm needles instead of the fingering weight yarn and 4mm needles called for in her pattern, but it turned out wonderfully.

I then knit two more in fingering weight yarn purchased from the ultra talented Ashley at Smash Knits. Here's the one I knit for myself in colorway "Spring Fling"/

After I finished this one, I started another using two strands of laceweight yarn from my stash. I'll post pictures of that one as soon as I get it blocked!

It is a given that I will knit more in this pattern. The shawlette is the perfect weight to wear alone in warmer seasons and makes an excellent scarf as well. The two I already have are fast becoming my favorite accessories.

If you haven't checked it out, I highly recommend the pattern!

Charity auction season again

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 09 Jun 2025 17:58:00 +0000

Since my brother joined his local Masonic Lodge a few years ago, I've been pitching in with a few donations each year for their annual auction. This year I kept up the tradition with four pairs of simple drop earrings.

I still have a small stash of Swarovski crystal bicones and rondelles and since these can no longer be purchased to make into jewelry, I thought they might have some appeal.

From the top left: (1) Freshwater pearls and Swarovski crystal bicones, on sterling silver headpins, suspended from handmade sterling silver ear wires. (2) Amber Swarovski rondelles and opaque bicones on sterling silver headpins suspended from handmade sterling silver ear wires. (3) Freshwater pearls and Swarovski rondelles, on sterling silver headpins, suspended from safety ear wires. (4) Two sizes and colors of Swarovski rondelles on sterling silver headpins suspended from handmade sterling silver ear wires.

Together they raised $180 in auction donations. Knowing the worthy causes the Masons support throughout the year, I couldn't be more pleased.

Another Close to You Shawl

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Fri, 04 Apr 2025 18:08:00 +0000

A while back I shared that I was making another Close to You Shawl using the pattern by Justyna Lorkowska, but this time trying it with DK yarn on 5mm needles. It is still a WIP, but I thought I'd show you how it's going.

I found this yarn on Facebook Marketplace a while back. I have no label information, except that it is a DK weight wool yarn. I'm liking how it's looking after about a dozen pattern repeats. I'll let you know the difference in size with my original once it's done.

Hope you and yours are safe in your corner of the world.

Knitting Update - March 31, 2025

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 31 Mar 2025 14:37:00 +0000

Late winter is a good time to stay close to home. The weather is unpredictable, which means our ferry is unpredictable and I tend to leave the island only when necessary. It's too early to garden, but I have started my planning for the year. This past weekend I also started the first seeds indoors as our last frost date isn't until mid June.

It's also a time for knitting for myself. I realized this morning that there are projects I've not yet shared so this post is intended to catch up on all that.

Last fall I bought a skein of hand-dyed fingering weight yarn from Seaspun Yarn and Coffee House in Carbonear. I decided around Christmas that I wanted to increase the cowls I could wear outside of winter and thought this gorgeous yarn (colorway - Take a Trot on a Mauzy Day) would look great with a jean jacket. Because the yarn is heavily variegated, I knew stitch patterns would be lost in the colors so I opted for a simple 2x2 rib bands and a broken rib body. I casted on 148 stitches on a 4 mm circular needle and continued until it was deep enough to double over comfortably.

I made a similar cowl in a worsted weight a while back. That free pattern is here.

The little yarn I have leftover has been added to the fingering weight stash as I have a colorful project in mind for later this year.

Another fingering weight find last fall was a skein of merino-cashmere-nylon from Indigodragonfly. I found it on Facebook Marketplace. The colorway is "Little Bloodsucking Dancer", a series of shifting hues of red. I wanted to try knitting a triangular shawl using Holly Chayes Shawl Geometry Book II as my guide. I opted for simple stitches and alternated bands of bamboo stitch and stocking stitch. Loved how it turned out.

The picture below shows the lovely color changes in the yarn within the stitch pattern.

Keeping with the shawl theme, I also wanted to try an asymmetrical shawl shape. Usually, I'm a crescent-shaped shawl fan, but had set a goal to try out a few different shawl shapes in 2025.

Enter the "Close to You Shawl" by by Justyna Lorkowska, available for free on Ravelry. This wonderful pattern uses a single ball of sock weight yarn (around 400m) and is the perfect project for a variegated skein as the stitch pattern is mostly garter stitch. The clever shaping makes it look far more difficult than it is. For 12 of the 15 rows, you maintain a simple two row repeat. Only rows 13 and 14 fall outside the pattern.

I made mine in a skein of Meilenweit Lana Grossa that I bought from a local knitter doing some destashing. I've sine started a second version of this pattern, this time using a DK weight yarn on 5mm needles. I'll let you know how it goes.

Over a year ago, I bought a quantity of Cascade Fingering Yarn from Artisanthropy during an online sale event. At the time, I didn't have a plan, but I loved the color and wanted a lighter weight cardigan for spring and summer.

A few weeks back I found a lovely free pattern on the DROPS Design website called Morning Hush.

I knit a swatch and the Cascade Yarn matched perfectly! It is a top-down cardigan featuring a simple circular yoke. The collar was a new technique for me. It involved double-knitting. I cast on 290 stitches for that collar. I thought they were mad, but it creates a lovely, cushy but stable collar that will give some structure to the lightweight garment. It is slow going on 3mm needles, but I'm enjoying the process.

The picture below shows the yoke in progress.

The last project has been on my to-do list for a while. I had been wanting a pair of wrist warmers in earth tones to better suit on of my favorite cardigans. I found some leftover Malabrigo Merino Lace from another project that had been wound into a double skein. Holding the two strands together, I used my own Barnacle Fingerless Gloves pattern and 2.75 mm double pointed needles, omitting the thumb hole and making them shorter. They turned out beautifully!

Well that brings us pretty much up to date. Hope you enjoyed this little knitting update. Take care and see you again soon.

Combat heating costs with wool accessories!

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Thu, 20 Mar 2025 19:08:00 +0000

In February, a collective shriek was uttered as my fellow Newfoundlanders and Labradorians got the January heating bill in the mail. We live in a small house, that was recently reinsulated and ours was over $400! I've seen numerous Facebook posts where people are shocked by what's on their bills.

Now the Public Utility Board is currently looking for answers for consumers and I'm glad they are. Given all the recent strains on incomes, bills like these can push individuals and families into dangerous waters.

I realized that many of the things I like to knit and wear, actually help us through the winter and keep our thermostats down, and they may not be what people think. There are ways to provide yourself and your families with versatile, handknit items that can have a positive impact on their comfort and the family budget.

Fiber choice matters

I would be remiss if I didn't start off by talking about fiber - that is, what yarn is made of. Big box stores and even yarn shops will have their share of 100% acrylic and polyester yarns, as well as blends that feature large quantities of these in their mixes. There is no nice way to say this, so here goes:

Natural fibers or blends that feature mostly natural fibers are the best choice.

Acrylic and polyester yarns may be easy to care for, but they do not provide the warmth that wool does, especially when they get wet. They also don't breathe well. Yes, 100% acrylic and polyester yarns are budget friendly and can come in a beautiful array of color combinations, but they do not have the warmth, breathability and durability of natural fibers.

Not all natural fibers are created equal, of course, and budget is a necessary consideration for most people ( including me). So here are a few tips to consider.

Choose your yarn based on what you intend to make with it.

For example, rustic yarns are excellent choices for outerwear as they a resistant to pilling, help shed rain and snow, can absorb moisture without losing their insulating qualities and can be very budget friendly.

On the downside, rustic yarns can be "scratchy" for some folks and don't lend themselves well to direct skin-to-skin contact. Yarns featuring Peruvian Highland Wool, and blends of wool and cotton, are often more tolerable and still fall into budget categories. There are lots of YouTubers who go into depth about fiber choices. If you are in doubt, check them out. Here's one of my favorites:

Shop sales.

If you plan out your knitting projects for the year, you can then use this plan to help you take advantage of sales that your favorite yarn shop or big box store may have. Every January I sit down and consider what might be in my knitting plan for the year. I take note of what is already in my stash, then make a list of yarn weight, fiber and quantity so I have a ready shopping list. This also helps me not to impulse buy. The picture of a yarn haul from several years ago is an example of this principle. That order featured mostly lace weight pure wool, with a little DK thrown in for good measure.

Blends are a good budget choice.

Blended yarns are often a good budget choice. I personally won't buy yarn for making garments or accessories with less than a 50% natural fiber content. But for some uses, I have made exceptions going as low as a 20% wool content. The higher the percentage of natural fibers, the better.

Shop budget brands.

There are yarn manufacturers that produce good quality natural fiber yarn at reasonable prices. My personal favorite is DROPS Design. They offer an array of natural fiber and natural fiber blends that are very reasonable in price. I always check these first for any project I might be planning.

It pays to do your homework and see what brands will work best for you. I had been a Patons Kroy Yarn fan for decades but over the years became increasingly dissatisfied with the brand. I decided to give DROPS Fabel yarn a try. It has more yardage per ball and a similar yarn weight. And it cost me less per ball to boot! Two balls of Fabel make the same pair of socks that would require me to buy three balls of Kroy.

(The socks pictured here are made from DROPS Fabel yarn.)

Look for retailers that offer good prices.

This is a no-brainer, but I didn't realize how much until I started checking around myself. Some of my favorite online shops did not offer the best prices on my favored brands. I recently discovered the Yarn Warehouse. Even with the conversion from Canadian dollars to British pounds, and shipping, I am able to buy some of my favorite yarns at a better price.

Consider shopping color groups and yarn weights.

If you find yourself drawn to a wide variety of colors, you might want to consider shopping color groups to ensure that bits left over are more likely to coordinate. Maybe you love neutrals, or earth tones, or jewel tones. If you don't want to limit your color palate choices, then consider sorting your yarn leftovers in a similar manner. This way, you will be more familiar with what you have in your scrap stash and it will make it easier for you to use up the bits that are invariably left over.

Similarly, if you decide on a particular yarn weight that you like to work with, you will find it easier to use up your scraps and to accumulate enough to create additional projects. I tend to work with laceweight, fingering and DK weight. I can combine laceweight strands to work fingering weight patterns. Two strands of fingering approximates a DK weight, and so on. But my favorite yarn weight is fingering weight. I just separate the scraps into super-wash and non-super-wash bags. You get the picture.

Not every project has to be a sweater.

There are a number of smaller projects that when worn regularly, can make a huge difference to your comfort level during the colder months of the year.

A good good hat is a must for winter weather. I made a cabled toque 17 years ago out of Istex Alafoss Lopi yarn and it still looks as good as new (see picture taken today). Over time, the fabric has gradually felted a bit, increasing the protection it offers.

Mittens, scarves and cowls are also smaller projects that can greatly improve winter comfort when made from natural fibers. It took less than two full balls of a DK yarn to create my favorite pair of mittens.

Cowls, shawls and wrist warmers/fingerless mittens are my go-to indoor woolen wear items. I have a growing collection too as I recently decided these are the best way to ensure the versatility of my wardrobe during our unpredictable climate.

The best part is all of these can be knitted relatively quickly. You can change up the fibers to create garments that can go well beyond winter. And they are small enough that they won't break the bank even if you want to upgrade your fiber choice.

Consider wearing more wool indoors.

Throughout most days, the temperature outside can vary a lot (the blessing of a maritime climate). Winter here drags on for months into what qualifies as spring in many other places. My best tip for maintaining your comfort as stylishly as possible is to wear more wool indoors.

I always have a shawl and wrist warmers handy in the coldest month. I have a bed shawl (one of my older merino shawls) that I take to bed nightly except for the very warmest months. Because I like to sleep with my arms outside the covers, I regularly wear fingerless mittens or wrist warmers to bed as well.

I wear wool socks almost year around, except for the few weeks I forgo socks entirely. I have knee-high woolen socks that I pull up over leggings. Wool socks in different weights of yarn combined with a wool slipper helps me keep my feet warm like nothing else.

Make use of both free and paid patterns

Knitting doesn't have to be an expensive hobby. There are lots of online resources to help you keep costs down while you are knitting for your family.

Ravelry is one of my go-to websites for knitting patterns. While paid patterns have their place, there are lots of free patterns available for staple garments like scarves, cowls, shawls, wrist warmers, socks, hats and mittens that don't have to break the bank. And once you've found one you like, you can play with it do add some variety to your finished projects.

That being said, paid patterns are usually tech edited, and have been test knit by other knitters. For larger projects that involve larger, more fitted garments, you may want to invest in paid patterns for these. Some paid pattern designers still offer free patterns to get new knitters started. For example, Tin Can Knits has its own mobile phone app and a selection of free patterns so you can try them out with little risk. Of course, if you like their patterns you are more likely to use purchased patterns from them as well.

Some yarn manufacturers also make free patterns available that feature their brand. DROPS Design is one of my favorites. They have an extensive library of patterns that can be searched by item, by yarn name or weight.

Check out the free patterns here on this blog as well. There are lots to get you started.

In closing, you don't have to break the budget to keep your family comfortable during the colder months of the year. A little planning and smart shopping can also help us all get through to spring with a little more money on our pockets.

Tussah Cowl

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Tue, 18 Feb 2025 17:45:00 +0000

If you've been here before, you've heard me mention that several years ago I was gifted a large quantity of lace weight and fingering yarn from someone who was seriously downsizing their stash.

I recently rediscovered I had three cakes of Tussah Silk by BC Garns that came to me as part of that wonderful gift. I decided to play and made a swatch. I adored the drape that this fabric has on 4 mm needles and decided to make a loose cowl/snood to wear with my denim jacket this spring.

This is pricey yarn, but it is a dream to work with. I used 360 yarns (72 g) to create my sizable cowl (about 1.5 balls). If you wanted to make a regular sized cowl, one skein would likely suffice. I have enough left over that I plan to make fingerless gloves to go with my snood/hood.

Pattern

The gauge on my swatch was 5.5 stitches and 7 rows to the inch. I wanted my finished cowl to be in the vicinity of 30 inches in circumference. My stitch pattern required multiples of 6 stitches, so I decided to cast on 162 stitches. You can use the gauge from your swatch to determine the size of your cowl.

For example, if you want a cowl that is large like mine, and your gauge works out to 5 stitches per inch, you would want 30 x 5 stitches or 150 stitches. Since 150 divides evenly by 6, it will work with the stitch pattern.

For materials you will need about 360 meters of a light fingering yarn with some drape to it. Any yarn with rayon, silk or other drapey fibre should work well. Be sure to make a decent sized swatch and block it to be sure you are getting the drape you want. If it doesn't seem quite right, go up a needle size and try again.

Cast on 162 sts (or whatever number you require that is a multiple of 6 stitches). Join in the round taking care not to twist your stitches.

Knit the first round. Then begin pattern on round 2.

Stitch Pattern - Lacey Double Ribbing

R1: (p1, yo, k2togtbl, p1, k2), rep to EOR.

R2: (p1, k2) to EOR.

R3: (p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2), to EOR.

R4: (p1, k2), to EOR.

Continue to your desired length ending with round 4. Knit one round. Then cast off using a 3 stitch I-cord cast off. I chose an i-cord cast off to help prevent the top edge from stretching too much.

Wash and block.

Blocked dimensions are: 15.5 w x 18.25 l (inches) measured flat.

If you enjoy this pattern, please consider buying me a coffee. Feel free to share this pattern. You are free to make items for sale using this pattern provided they are not mass produced and you give credit to me as the designer.

Abbreviations

k - knit

p - purl

k2togtbl - knit the next two stitches together, inserting your needle into the back loops

k2tog- knit two stitches together

yo - yarn over

EOR - end of round

Plum Pudding Scarf

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Tue, 18 Feb 2025 16:47:00 +0000

Some knitters are intimidated by lace weight yarn. I know I was for a very long time. That changed a few years ago when I was recovering from a double SCAD event in 2018. I found that knitting with worsted weight, bulky and super bulky yarns was very tiring. It didn’t take long before fingering and lace weight yarns became my preference. It was eye opening. Yes, it takes a little practice to adjust your tension, but the results are so very worth it!

You create garments that are lightweight and feel luxurious. The generous yardages in lace and fingering yarns means you can splurge for a single skein and still get a lovely garment. Shawls, cowls, fingerless mittens, scarves - there is so much you can make with a 100 gram skein.

In an era of capsule wardrobes and a growing focus on slow fashion, lighter weight yarns fit in beautifully. They take up little space in your wardrobe, are hard to grow out of, and hold up beautifully over time. They can provide punches of color and personality in a color or pattern limited capsule wardrobe. They also won’t break the bank and still enable you to buy quality materials.

The Plum Pudding Scarf is a one-skein project, using 4 mm needles, and a simple repetitive stitch pattern. The lace sections alternate with garter stitch to give you a break. Gauge is not critical as this is a scarf. Focus on making your tension consistent to get the best results. The bias construction only requires regular increases and decreases at the beginning and end of each right-side row and results in a dramatic look for little effort. You can customize your scarf length to suit you and how you wish to wear it. My scarf ended up being about 5.5 inches wide and 74 inches long from point to point.

The lace sections are achieved by staggering rows of bamboo stitch. Bamboo stitch is a simple two row pattern featuring (yo, k2, psso) on the right side, followed by a plain purl row on the wrong side. By staggering each pair of rows, you get a lacey effect that is beautiful yet simple to make. Because of the bias increases and decreases, your right side rows of (yo, k2, psso) will be automatically staggered, creating the lacey effect.

Materials: One skein of a drapey lace weight yarn. The Plum Pudding Scarf uses less than a single skein of Noro Kirameki yarn. This is a rayon, nylon, wool, cashmere blend so if you wish to substitute another lace weight yarn, choose one with rayon, silk or other drapey fibre.

Tools: 4 mm circular needle or straight needle. Choose a needle/pair of needles with sharper points to make stitch manipulation easier. If you are new to using this weight of yarn, I recommend wooden needles to make it harder to accidentally slide stitches off the needle. (Ask me how I know!)

Pattern

The scarf pattern combines bias increases and decreases, and alternating bands of broken bamboo and garter stitch. Gauge is not critical as this is a scarf. Be careful not to knit tightly otherwise you will have issues moving your yarn overs over other stitches. Consistent tension is key.

Cast on 55 stitches. Complete 4 rows garter stitch. This will serve as the bottom edge of your scarf.

Next row: k2, pm, kfb, ( yo, k2, psso), repeat to last 4 stitches, k2tog, pm, k2.

Next row: k2, sm, purl to last marker, sm, k2.

Broken Bamboo Band

Next row: k2, sm, kfb, ( yo, k2, psso), repeat to last 4 stitches, k2tog, sm, k2.

Next row: k2, sm, purl to last marker, sm, k2.

Repeat the last two rows twice more. (6 rows of pattern in total.)

Garter stitch band

Next row: k2, sm, kfb knit to the last 4 sts, k2tog, sm, k2.

Next row: k2, sm, knit to next marker, sm, k2.

Repeat the last two rows once more.(6 rows of garter stocking.)

Continue alternating Pattern and Garter Stitch Bands until work reaches your desired length, ending with a pattern band.

Then knit 4 rows of garter stitch (without increases and decreases), and cast off loosely.

Wash and block to open up the stitch pattern.

If you enjoy this pattern, please consider buying me a coffee! Feel free to share this patten. You are free to make scarves for sale using this pattern provided they are not mass produced and you give credit to me as the designer.

Abbreviations

k - knit

p - purl

pm - place marker

sm - slip marker

Kfb - knit into the front and back of the same stitch

k2tog- knit two stitches together

yo - yarn over

psso - pass the stitch you made with the yarn over over the 2 stitches you just knitted

Nan's No Fuss Shawl

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Sun, 02 Feb 2025 19:02:00 +0000

Everyone can use a small shawl. Small shawls like this one keep the chill away, are easy to wear and are not so much wool or so precious that you can't wear it every day.

Nan's No Fuss Shawl fits the bill perfectly. The crescent shape helps it stay on the shoulders. The overall size makes it possible to turn it around and wrap it closer to your neck as a kerchief scarf as well. Made with less than one ball of sock yarn and simple stitches, it is an economical and beginner friendly shawl project.

The project uses knit, purl, yarn overs and a 3-stitch I-cord bind off. Super wash sock yarn is recommended for this project. I used a merino/nylon blend from Leo and Roxy Yarn Co. Basics Fingering. Depending on how large you want to make your shawl, you will use most of the ball. Just be sure to reserve enough yarn for the I-cord cast off!

Sorry for the issues with the pdf - first time trying to make a pdf available and I clearly didn't do it correctly! The full instructions are below.

Nan's No Fuss Shawl

Everyone needs a no fuss shawl, one that’s not so precious you won’t wear it when you’re sick, working around the home or garden. I have a number of shawls in my wardrobe and I have to confess it is the no fuss shawls that see the most use. I was recently asked to make a shawl as a gift and since I don’t know the person, so I decided to opt for a no fuss version.

This is a great beginner project as it uses simple stitches, one ball of yarn, but will teach a few knitting techniques along the way. You can check the glossary at the end to see the techniques and abbreviations used.

Materials: I used less than one skein of Leo and Roxy Yarn Co. Basic Fingering Yarn 465 yards/425.2 meters (actually used 83g or 386m). This is a superwash merino/nylon blend. I recommend a superwash yarn as this will ensure a nice drape and easy care with minimal fussing. Because the stitch work is minimal you might choose a variegated yarn or a solid color.

Tools: 4 mm circular needle 32 inches long, tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure.

Gauge: Not critical here but to ensure you have enough yarn to recreate what I made, aim for a gauge of 5.5 stitches and 8 rows equals one inch in stockinette stitch on 4mm needles.

Pattern

This cast-on uses general instructions from Holly Chayes’s book “Shawl Geometry - Part II”. If you like knitting shawls, this is a great resource to have on hand. It and the others in her series are available in an e-book format here. The basic cast on goes like this:

Cast on 13 stitches using your preferred method.

Row 1: k2, (pm, yo.k1) 4 times; pm, k1, (pm, k1, yo) 4 times, pm, k2.

Row 2: k2, purl to the last two stitches, slipping markers as you go, k2.

Stocking stitch sections

Row 1: k2, (sm, yo, k to next marker) 4 times; sm, k1, (sm, k to nextmarker, yo) 4 times, sm, k2.

Row 2: k2, purl to the last two stitches, slipping markers as you go, k2.

Repeat these two rows 8 times more (total of 18 rows of stocking stitch).

Hurdle Stitch Band

Row 1: k2, (sm, yo, k to next marker) 4 times, sm, k1, (sm, k to next marker, yo) 4 times, sm, k2.

Row 2: k2, sm, k to centre stitch marker, sm, p1, sm, k to last mark, sm, k2.

Row 3: k2, (sm, yo, [k1,p1] to next marker) 4 times, sm, k1, (sm, [k1,p1] to the last stitch before next marker, k1, yo) 4 times, sm, k2.

Row 4: k2, (sm, yo, [k1,p1] to next marker) 4 times, sm, p1, (sm, [k1,p1] to the last stitch before next marker, k1, yo) 4 times, sm, k2. (Basically you’re knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches while maintaining your increases.)

Row 5: k2, (sm, yo, k to next marker) 4 times, sm, k1, (sm, k to next marker, yo) 4 times, sm, k2.

Row 6: k2, sm, k to centre stitch marker, sm, p1, sm, k to last mark, sm, k2.

These six rows make up one hurdle stitch band.

Continue working

Continue working alternating these bands of stitches (stocking stitch and hurdle stitch bands), while maintaining your increases and the centre stitch as a stocking stitch.

Work until you have a total of 397 stitches - 49 stitches in each of the eight sections separated by stitch markers, plus the selvedge and centre stitches (392 = 5 sts = 397) Or, if you want to use more yarn or make a larger shawl, work to desired length ending with a hurdle stitch band. Be sure to reserve enough yarn for the I-cord cast off.

Tip: I count back on the WS rows to ensure I have the same number of stitches each section. As the shawl gets bigger, it helps to keep track. If you make a mistake, you have far fewer stitches to pull back!

I-Cord Bind Off

With the right side of your work facing, cast on three stitches on the end of your left hand needle. Knit the first two stitches, then knit through the back loop (k2togbl) of the next two stitches together. Slide the three stitches now on your right needle, back to the left needle and give the yarn a gentle tug. Then repeat the process. Each time you do, you cast off one stitch in an I-cord bind off. So, what you are doing is:

K2, k2togtbl, slide these three stitches back to the left needle and repeat.

Once you’ve cast off, secure the ends, wash and block.

Abbreviations

k - knit

p - purl

pm - place marker

sm - slip marker

yo - yarn over

k2togtbl - knit two stitches together through the back of the loops

I hope you enjoy this free pattern. Feel free to use it and share as you like.

January binge knitting

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 27 Jan 2025 18:58:00 +0000

Like many areas in the northern hemisphere, January is regarded as a long, cold, wintery month up here. The winter season was late settling in this year as our local weather remained warmer than usual right through December. Regardless, January has always been a cocoon month for me. The Christmas rush is over, and the cold weather and sparse daylight means I spend more time at home, indoors.

The past few years, I find I binge knit through this part of winter. I cast on multiple projects, usually targeting a specific ball(s) of yarn, or a technique I've wanted to try. January is often when I start knitting for myself again as well.

This year's binge-fest started with casting on my Plum Pudding Scarf. I had almost a full ball of NORO Kameki yarn in my stash full of rich purples and blues, that I'd set aside for myself. So I decided on a bias scarf design featuring what I call a broken bamboo stitch and plain garter stitch. It's a simple pattern and creates fabric that lies pretty flat hanging from the needles. It's still a work in progress, so more on that later. I will be posting this as a free pattern before the end of the month.

Next I cast on the Dandelion Field Mittens pattern from DROPS Design. I had received several balls of beautiful Rowan Felted Tweed for Christmas and was eager to get this lovely colorwork project started. I adjusted the wrist width and length but otherwise followed the pattern. Next time, I may increase the needle size from 2.75 mm to 3 or 3.25 mm as the mittens just fit. I love how they turned out and expect to get much wear from them.

I was asked to make a shawl for as a gift for a family member's grandmother and came up with what I'm calling Nan's No Fuss Shawl. I had a ball of Leo and Roxy superwash sock yarn in a pencil grey color and decided to create a no fuss everyday shawl. It is a crescent shaped shawl, featuring alternating bands of stockinette and hurdle stitch, finished with an I-cord cast off. It was a very quick knit and turned out lovely. I've had a couple of inquiries about this shawl so I plan to write a pattern for it which will be featured on this blog very soon.

Our wee senior Chihuahua has found it a little cool indoors lately so I decided to make her a house sweater. I took her measurements and using an orphan ball of worsted weight yarn made a cowl/kerchief style sweater for her. It was knit in an evening and she seems to like it! I accidentally reversed the cowl section when I started the back flap, which put the right side of the hurdle stitch on the inside, but since it doesn't impact wear, I decided to let that go for now. (Note: don't talk on the phone while trying to work a new design.)

I also cast on the Close to Me Shawl by Justyna Lorkowska. I had purchased a lone ball of a German sock yarn through Facebook Marketplace that I thought would be perfect! This pattern is interesting but simple enough to qualify as a stress-free knit. It's still a work in progress, so to stay tuned.

I decided to explore felting this month as well. I knitted up a bag shape using odd balls of worsted weight yarn held double. I took measurements before and after felting to get a sense of what might be possible. The resulting bag will need a lining to help it retain its shape, but I'm pleased. It should make a great project bag! The picture to the left is how it looked before felting. It measured

I also frogged a project - an Icelandic style sweater made with Istex Einband yarn. I really didn't like the resulting fabric. So despite having the body and one sleeve completed to the armpit, I pulled it all back. I realized that stitch choice/fabric created has a huge impact on how I feel about every project so I decided to start swatching. As luck should have it, my first stitch and needle choice yielded a great result. I made an 8 inch swatch in hurdle stitch. Then I made a large swatch in the round to see how much my gauge changes. I have made plans to knit a slipover using this stitch configuration and yarn. I'll post more information as my experiments continue.

Often while I binge knit, I'll listen to podcasts, sip tea or coffee, and think of other possible knitting projects. It's an utterly decadent way to spend time cozy in my home. It's a nurturing activity, and heaven knows we all need lots of that in our lives.

What do you like to knit during the dark month of January? Do you like to binge knit? Leave me a comment and let me know.

2024 Making Round-Up!

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Tue, 14 Jan 2025 20:15:00 +0000

My posts always drop off leading up to Christmas as I am usually knee deep in gift making and can't seem to think about much else! I thought before I start thinking about my making goals for 2025, I'd do a round up on what I made in 2024.

In retrospect, it was a very busy year, especially considering that making slowed to a trickle once the weather was warm enough to get out in the garden. It was a fun year filled with a variety of different interests.

In the wire working department, there were a couple of projects. In the late spring, I designed a brooch for a fundraiser and made three to donate. I called it the Sunrise Brooch!

I was pleased with how this turned out. I made them in bronze and took advantage of the extra "spring" of this metal in the design.

I also made a suncatcher for my kitchen window featuring some aquamarine chips.

No matter how long I go between wire working projects, sooner or later I always seem to need to make something new!

Knitting got a lot of attention too. I discovered last year that despite the seaters I made, I am more of a vest and cardigan girl. I decided to give my sweaters to Jenn and started looking at cardigan possibilities for myself.

I started a steeked cardigan using a 50/50 merino silk lace yarn (held double) from my stash. Things were going very well until I got to the button bands. I ended up picking up too many stitches and had bands that distorted the sweater. I was very disappointed and put it in a drawer, promising myself I would try to take the band apart in the future. So far that hasn't happened - lol.

My next cardigan was a fun exercise in stash-busting! I used a free pattern I found on Ravelry as the base, combined a DK yarn with a variety of laceweight yarns in my stash and created something truly unique and wonderful! I added some applied I-cord and appliqued some mohair "leaves" I had originally made for a different project. I finished it off with a recycled pewter clasp. It is my favorite cardigan! And this fall, I finally found a long-sleeved t-shirt to truly complement it!

My last cardigan was a summer, 3/4 sleeve, open-front version using two strands of laceweight yarn from my stash. Because I wanted to steek again, I stayed away from silk based yarns this time and went with a straight up merino combination. This worked out much better.

I also did some hand quilting and sewing this year. The hand quilting was hexie-based. I find English paper piecing (EPP) addictive. I had started a quilt years ago which I pulled out of storage. I finished piecing the hexagon "flowers" and hand-stitched them to their backgrounds. Then I machine pieced the quilt top together.

Things were going well until I got to the actual quilting. Since my SCADs, I really don't have the strength or stamina to arm-strong a quilt sandwich through my domestic sewing machine. Even hand quilting turned into cardio for me. I ended up setting this aside and will try to resurrect it in the new year.

The picture at the left shows the pieced quilt top. I really love the colors.

Over the winter, I hand-basted a lot (and I mean a lot) of small hexies. The plan was to use up some of my orphan 2.5 inch charm squares and other fabric scraps. I had seen a maker on YouTube who often creates pieced fabric for her small projects and was inspired to create some fabric building blocks of my own. I've got a couple of bag projects in mind for 2025 that will likely feature some of these gorgeous fabrics!

I made a dresser scarf once before and had enough left over materials to make two more for my bedroom. That was a fun project as some of the fabrics in it have been with me for at least twenty years and brought back their own memories.

I had a few leftover bits that were eventually turned into a small purse in December of 2024!

I also gave upcycling a try. I had a corduroy dress that I had been wearing as a duster style coat for several years. I realized I'd get more use out of it if it was hip length. So I set out to shorten it and then decided to personalize it with Laurel Burch fabric I've had for years. It was a fun project and I was thrilled how it turned out!

I added a pocket and several "pictures" to add a little color to the dark item. I also added a black and white print material at the hem to avoid having to create a lot of bulk by rolling the edge over double.

I also made a beautiful bag for my mother following the wonderful tutorial by Yoan's Sewing Studio on YouTube. She has some wonderful projects on her channel and is a great teacher. I also made a simple zippered pouch to go with this bag.

Over the past few years, I've made several of her designs and have never been disappointed. If you want to try bag making, I suggest you give her channel a try!

I did a little experimenting with some laceweight Noro yarn from my stash. I had been wanting to create some smaller accessory pieces that could be worn throughout the year and this blended fibre yarn seemed to be worth a try.

I made a cowl and several scarves, experimenting with stitch patterns to see what might be most versatile.

This was a useful exercise and I've already started the next iteration of those experiments! All this is leading to a pattern I hope to release later this winter.

I gave Sashiko a try over last winter. I did a few practice pieces and made a Sashiko thimble. I expect this new hobby will reappear during the winter of 2025 as well!

Of course as the year progressed, I started Christmas knitting. I knit a lot of socks, hats, slippers and cowls this year! Also made a couple of sweaters for Theodore Bear (which I made and gave my sister a couple of years ago) and a sweater for Jenn. Below is a sample of pictures of those projects.

I'm sure I've left out a few things, but you get the picture. It was a wonderful year of making! Being able to exercise my creativity is a big part of how I cope with my chronic health issues and stay engaged with the world around me.

If you made it this far, thanks for keeping me company on my 2024 review! Happy New Year to you and yours!

Painting with Yarn

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Sat, 26 Oct 2024 22:27:00 +0000

Laceweight yarn is highly under-rated. As I watch various knitting podcasts, I've learned that many knitters resist knitting larger projects with anything light than a DK yarn. Fingering yarn is popular with knitters who enjoy color work, but I've yet to watch a podcast all about laceweight yarn.

I discovered the joys of mixing weights of yarn a few years ago. Since being gifted a fellow knitter's laceweight yarn stash, I'm doing it every chance I get. It is a great way to help a lighter yarn (like a fingering or sport weight) become suitable for a particular project. It's also a wonderful way to paint with yarn!

When I can't decide on a project, I'll pull some skeins from my stash, make up some yarn cakes, put on a favorite knitting podcast and start switching. So many of my projects start that way. TIP: Always add a tag to the tail of a swatch identifying the yarn and needle size used for future reference.

Marled yarns and handpainted yarns are hard to come by, especially in desirable fibers at a reasonable price. I've scored some great deals on lace, fingering and sport weight yarns over the past several years and have no trouble putting them to good use.

This cardigan featured two laceweight yarns: Cascade Llama Lace and a Malabrigo Merino Lace held double throughout, except for the bands which featured a double strand of the Malabrigo color. This cardigan was an improvised pattern knit on 4 mm needles.

This project features a Cascade sport weight as the main color (Straw), with a Cascade Llama Lace in a chocolate brown, a merino/silk laceweight by Fiddlesticks Yarn in a deep red, and a Malabrigo Merino Lace (Lettuce). I held two laceweight strands with the sport weight, alternating the red and green in the sleeves when I was worried about having enough red to finish the project. This sweater used 3.25, 4.5 and 5 mm needles and is my take on the Athena Jumper by DROPS Design.

This open front cardigan features an Estelle Andean DK in Bark and a multitude of laceweight colors (mohair/silk, merino/silk), with appliqué leaves knit in laceweight yarn. The Estelle DK is a great value at $12.99 for a 250 meter ball. Little bits of luxurious laceweight in complimentary colors carried along in intervals adds interest and elevates basic stockinette knitting. I used 4.5 mm needles on this project. It is my take on the Helmi cardigan by Mari Muinonen.

Laceweight yarn goes a long way as the smallest 25g balls usually have 200+ meters. I've purchased skeins that have had up to 800 meters! And the fibers can be luxurious, like mohair, silk, llama, etc. Sometimes I luck out and pick up a custom dyed laceweight from an indie dyers "oops" sale page. I always tuck them away and keep my eye open for a good deal on a basic yarn to use as a base, like an Estelle Yarn or Cascade Yarn.

The results of my efforts are custom colors, luxurious fabrics and one-of-a-kind garments that won't be seen anywhere else.

So the next time you cruise past a sale bin at your favorite yarn store, take a peak for orphaned skeins of laceweight yarn. You might discover treasure!

Fingerless mittens featuring two strands of Cascade Llama Lace. This is my own pattern.

Anchor Chain Beanie

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 14 Oct 2024 20:34:00 +0000

Christmas knitting is well underway here at my house and, like last year, I'm determined to shop my stash as much as possible. I had a couple of balls of Istex Alafosslopi that I wanted to use up so I took a look at patterns I've used on Ravelry. Couldn't find exactly what I wanted so, I used a pattern I knitted once before as a take off point and played with it.

This is my variation on The Man Hat by Haven Ashley, a pattern available for free on Ravelry. I wanted a two color hat in a double broken rib stitch, so I took liberties with her excellent pattern. Changing colors over the ribbing created a chain like effect around the hat which I quite like.

My version makes an adult (large) beanie like hers. You can adjust the finished size by decreasing or increasing your needle size. This will change your gauge ( e.g. 4.5mm or 5.5 mm).

Gauge: 13 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches in broken rib using 5 mm needles

Materials: 2 balls of Istex Alafosslopi, one maincolor (MC) and one contrasting color (CC)

Tools: 5 mm circular needle (16 inches), 5 mm double pointed needles (DPN), tapestry needle, scissors.

Pattern

Cast on loosely, 64 sts on the 16 inch 5mm circular needle. Join in the round being careful not to twist your stitches.

Pattern Stitch - Broken Rib

1st round: (k2, p2) repeat to end of round (EOR).

2nd round: knit to EOR

Repeat these rounds five more times (12 rounds from cast on). Should be about 2 inches in length from the cast on edge.

Change to contrasting color (CC) and complete rounds1 and 2 of pattern.

Change to main color (MC) and repeat rounds 1 and 2 twice ( 4 rounds).

Repeat these color changes until you have 5 bands of CC in total.

Change back to MC and complete pattern round 1.

If hat is 7 inches long from cast on edge, begin decreases below. If not, continue knitting in pattern with MC, ending with round 1, until the length is 7 inches or the length desired. (Remember this is a close fitting beanie.)

Decreasing for crown:

1: (k6, ssk) repeat to EOR - 56 sts

2: (k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat to EOR - 56 sts

3: (k2, ssk, k3) repeat to EOR - 48 sts

4: (k2, p1, k2, p1) repeat to EOR - 48 sts

5: (k3, ssk, k1) repeat to EOR - 40 sts

6: (k2, p1, k1, p1) repeat to EOR - 40 sts

7: (ssk, k3) repeat to EOR - 32 sts

8: (k1, p1) repeat to EOR - 32 sts

10: (k2, ssk) repeat to EOR (switch to DPNs) 24 sts

11: (k1, p1, k1) repeat to EOR - 24 sts

12: k1, p1, ssk, p1, ssk, p1, ssk, p1, ssk, p1, ssk, p1, ssk, p1, ssk, p1, k1. - 16 sts

13: (k1, p1) to last two sts, p2tog. - 16 sts

14: ssk, to EOR (8 sts remaining) - 8 sts

Break yarn leaving 8-9 inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, draw yarn through remaining stitches and secure inside the hat. Weave in all yarn ends. Dampen and block.

Finished dimensions - unstretched and unblocked - 11.5 inches wide at the bottom and 9 inches from bottom edge to crown.

Abbreviations

CC - contrasting color yarn

CO - cast on

DPNs - double pointed needles

EOR - end of round

K - knit

K2tog - knit two stitches together

MC - main color yarn

P - purl

P2tog - purl two stitches together

SSK - slip next two stitches as 8f to knit, then knit both stitches together through the back of the loops

Dainty Socks

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 07 Oct 2024 19:28:00 +0000

I knit these beauties last year, then promptly forgot to post the pattern. Oops.

Once again, I used the Barnacle Stitch Pattern ( aka - mock cable stitch) to jazz up a basic sock pattern. Because this stitch pattern features ribbing, it is perfect for a nicely fitting sock. Also, I dipped into my stash of laceweight yarns, because - why not! A light sock weight should also work. If using sock yarn, you'll need about 400 meters.

Materials: 2 balls of complementary laceweight yarns that have some nylon or silk in them for strength. I used two balls of Fiddlesticks Knitting Exquisite yarn I had in my stash (50% Merino/50% silk), each having 547 yards. You could chose contrasting yarns. I chose the same color as I wanted the stitch pattern to pop. I estimate I used under 400 meters of each.

Needles: 2.25 mm double pointed needles

Customization:

This pattern is for a women’s size 10 (Canadian). To make a larger or small size, change your number of stitches cast on by multiples of 4. 25% of your stitches will be on needle #1, 50% on needle #2 and 25% on needle #3.

To be sure your sock will fit, measure the circumference your foot around the fullest part and call this measurement A. Knit a swatch in stockinette to determine the number of stitches per inch. Take measurement A and multiply it by the number of stitches per inch. Then subtract 10%.

For example:

If measurement A is 9 inches and your stitches per inch is 8, 9 x 8 = 72 sts.

To prevent having a sloppy sock, subtract 10% of your stitches, in this case 7 sts. That leaves you with 65 sts. For the pattern to work, you need a stitch number divisible by 4. 65 sts doesn’t work, but 64 does. In this example, I'd cast on 64 stitches. (The stitch pattern in this sock has a good amount of stretch.)

Foot length can be altered by increasing the rounds knit.

Pattern:

Cast on 64 stitches : (16-32-16)

If you need a different number of stitches, 25% of your stitches will be on needle #1, 50% on needle #2 and 25% on needle #3.

P1, (k2, p2) to last stitch, p1.

Repeat this ribbing for 4 rounds in total.

Mock cable pattern:

1: p1, (k2,p2) to last stitch, p1.

2: p1, (k1, yo, k1, p2) to last stitch, p1.

3. P1, (k3, p2) to last stitch, p1.

4: p1, (sl1, k2, psso, p2) to last stitch, p1.

Begin mock cable pattern. Repeat mock cable pattern 17 times. Stop knitting when 1 stitch remains on needle #3.

Divide for heel flap:

Next round, knit stitches from needle #1 using needle #3. Be sure to knit the last stitch on needle 3 together with the first stitch on needle #1. (31 sts). Leave needle #2 untouched (32 sts).

Turn and purl back across your 31 stitches.

Next row: (k1, sl1) to last stitch, k1.

Next row: purl

Repeat these two rows 16 more times (34 rows in total) or until desired heel depth in achieved. On last purl row, increase one stitch in the middle of the row. (32 sts)

Turn heel:

Next row: k21, k2tog, turn

Next row: slpw, p11, p2tog, turn

Next row: sl1kw, k10, k2tog, turn

Repeat the last two rows until 12 stitches remain.

Knit across the heel. Pick up 19 stitches along the left side of the heel flap. Pattern across needle #2. Pick up 19 stitches along the right side of the heel flap, then knit 6 stitches from the heel flap. Slide the remaining 6 stitches from the heel flap onto needle #1. ( 25 - 32 - 25)

Knit two rounds plain.

Next round: Knit to last three stitches on needle #1, k2tog, k1. Pattern across needle #2. On needle #3, K1, ssk, Knit to end of needle.

Next round: Knit across needle #1, pattern across needle #2, Knit across needle #3.

Repeat last two rounds until 16-32-16 stitches ( or until you have returned to your original cast on number of stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch on needles #1 and #3, and pattern on needle #2, until 21 pattern repeats are completed (84 rows), or until desired length is achieved. Usually I'm satisfied when the knitting reaches about the top of the smallest toe.)

Toe shaping:

Next round: Knit to last three stitches on needle #1, k2tog, k1. Knit 1, ssk, knit to last three stitches on needle #2, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, Knit to end of needle #3.

Next round: Knit

Repeat last two rounds until 32 stitches remain in total. (Note: not everyone's toes are the same. You can make a wider toe by using fewer decrease rounds and more knit rounds. You want sufficient length even if you choose fewer decreases.)

After last decrease, using needle #3, Knit across needle #1. You will have 16 stitches on each needle for a total of 32.

Use the Kitchener stitch to finish. Weave in ends.

Magic is ageless

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Thu, 26 Sep 2024 19:11:00 +0000

I've always believed that personal growth is a lifelong process, but I didn't expect the epiphanies, or the prompts from my subconscious, to be so dramatic in my sixth decade of life. Certainly my health issues over the past six years prompted more than one dark night of the soul, so I realize that big things can still happen. Yet sometimes, things surprise me in a profound way.

I had the worst dream of my adult life in late August, and that's saying something. As someone who has struggled with nightmares and night terrors since childhood, I thought that there was nothing new left for me to experience. I was so very wrong.

Many of my past nightmares have involved life threatening situations of all manners and description, but in these I've always been my younger, stronger self, or even a souped up super-human version of myself. Not so this night.

For the first time, my current physical reality bled into my nightmare when I was fighting for my life. I felt the strength leaving my body. I saw my chest scar from open heart surgery appear. And what was worse, my adversary seemed to know more about it than I did. I was overwhelmed with fear because I have not been confident in my ability to keep myself safe as I am today. I felt I had lost any control I might have had to influence the outcome of this terrible dream. I also had to listen as my pursuer gleefully growled that it was only a matter of time now...

The dream was very physical. I was throwing my weight and shoulder into a door to keep it shut. I felt a growing tightness in my chest. I knew if my pursuer got to me I would be finished, yet I couldn't focus long enough to extricate myself from the dream. Suddenly I heard a noise - the sound of the neighbourhood crows greeting the morning. It cut through my fog and was my beacon to safety.

When I finally woke, I was an utter wreck. I groped the basket on my night stand for medication to calm myself (something I never thought I'd need to do). My heart was pounding so hard, I was afraid I'd have a heart attack. I realized I was having a panic attack and got out of bed and headed for the living room as I couldn't risk putting my head back down on the pillow.

It was a good half hour later before I was calm enough to even speak about what had happened. As I spoke, my chest tightened anew and my heart started pounding again. It took effort and help from family to get my nervous system regulated once more.

It was the next day before I tried to speak about it again. Even with more than 24 hours distance, I felt my anxiety rise as I revisited my terror. I knew this dream was significant. It highlighted my insecurities attached to my current physical state. Even though I was in non-physical reality at the time, I was still afraid to be what I am now.

After some reflection, it occurred to me that my mistake in that nightmare was not realizing I had a choice. I assumed that because my current physical condition in ordinary reality was bleeding into non-ordinary reality that I had no choice to make. Knowing my adversary was aware of my physical condition seemed to magnify my feelings of helplessness. I literally gave away my power in that moment.

It didn't occur to me during the dream that what my body has endured and survived in this world should have given me more confidence in my ability to find my way. I didn't survive multiple SCADs because I was consciously able to fight. That moment before emergency surgery, after the second SCAD, when I told my partner I had found my resolve and wasn't going anywhere, was a clear expression of my intent. After that I was anesthetized for surgery and kept in an induced coma for four days. I had made a choice to find my way back and ultimately did. Perhaps my clear expression of intent gave my body permission to fight to survive.

Instead of doubting my body for being weak, I should have been celebrating my resilience.

I realized that while I've had an active summer, the most active since my SCADs in 2018, up until recently, I was still behaving more like someone waiting for the worst to happen than a survivor. Sure, I had ditched the FitBit, stopped daily weigh-ins and blood pressure checks, but I wasn't making any plans for myself that encouraged my growth as a person.

Then I had this unnerving dream. It got me thinking that I've never really approached my dream issues as a phenomenon onto itself. I've always considered each one on its own. I knew the minute I spoke this aloud that there was something here for me. After some soul-searching, I traced my way back to where those sleep issues may have started. Revelation and healing has made a difference. It has been more than a month since my last nightmare or night terror.

I also thought back to when my dreams were a source of inspiration and light for me. It was thirty years ago. I had embarked on a spiritual path. I had taken Reiki training and had begun to teach others. I learned the Runes and was taking tentative steps towards connecting with non-ordinary realties, which I had always known in my gut existed. My dreams were sometimes awe-inspiring. I had visitation dreams where I felt so very connected with the universe. I felt seen, as I was then, and deemed worthy.

Then life got in the way, consuming my energies, time and curiosity in the process. And I never really thought to turn around to see if I could find my way back to that path, until now. I recognized that I was craving that feeling of connection again and it occurred to me that all that was standing in my way was a choice. I just needed to decide to take the first step back on that pathway.

Happily, I've since taken several steps forward. I'm regaining my connection with other realities again. I feel lighter, almost younger. I've resurrected past spiritual practices and am already feeling the daily joy that these bring. I have work to do of course, but I'm so enjoying the process. And I've had my first visitation dream again!

The dream was utterly beautiful. I won't go into the details, but suffice it to say, I was seen, as I am now, in my 61 year old body, and was deemed lovable, worthy and enough. I was clearly told I have always been enough. I felt safe, relaxed and completely at ease. There was no self-consciousness nor anxiety.

I awoke feeling blissful and very well-supported on my chosen path.

Only goes to show that magic is truly ageless. And it can start with a choice.

Summer Knitting

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Wed, 17 Jul 2024 19:05:00 +0000

Die hard knitters don't abandon their passion when the temperature rises, but they may chose different projects and materials.

That's what happens at my house. I've been busy lately in my garden so I was looking for some smaller projects that could also be portable if needed. I pulled out two skeins of Noro lace weight yarn that I'd gotten from a friend who was de-stashing last year, and started looking for patterns.

My first choice was the Risoni Bias Scarf by Knit Purl available for free on Ravelry. I used a 4mm needle instead of a 3.75 mm, but otherwise followed the instructions. This is a simple pattern, perfect for days when it really is too warm to think, or when watching a movie or videos. I used the Noro Sekku (cotton, wool, nylon, silk) for this project. The rapid color changes really suited the bias construction.

For my next project, I chose one of my own patterns - The Feather and Fan Cowl - available for free here on my blog. This time I used Noro Kirameki yarn (rayon, nylon, cotton, cashmere). I followed the pattern until cast off. I decided to use a 3-stitch I-cord bind off. The Noro yarn made a lovely, light, slouchy cowl, perfect for adding a pop of color to a summer outfit.

Scarves and cowls are quick projects ideal for orphan balls of specialty yarn lurking in your stash. Choosing a summery fiber blend produces versatile accessories to jazz up your seasonal wardrobe.

Happy knitting!

Ever wonder what a Knitted Raven does?

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Tue, 16 Jul 2024 21:07:00 +0000

One of the goals I set for myself during the first few years following my SCAD was to find ways to share my wire working skills with others.

The YouTube Channel I started was my opportunity to pass along lessons I learned while running my business - The Purple Raven Boutique. At the moment there are over 40 videos uploaded, most focusing on teaching basic wire working skills, wire knitting and jewelry making techniques.

The tutorials build on each other and require a limited range of wire gauges and tools. I included a video on tools you need to get started and which household items can also be pressed into service.

If you are new to working with wire, I teach you basic skills such as how to make a wire wrapped loop and how to use wire cutters safely. I also talk about choosing wire and the characteristics of different types of metals.

All my tutorials are free. If you give them a try, please consider subscribing to my channel, leaving a "like" and a comment, and sharing the video links with your friends if you want to support my channel.

To check out my latest short video on what to expect from the wire working videos, click here.

An improvised open front summer cardigan

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Sun, 07 Jul 2024 02:37:00 +0000

Last year I purchased some laceweight yarn from Artisanthropy online: Cascade Llama Lace in a pink shade, and Malabrigo Merino Lace in a two-tone blue/pink. My plan was to combine these to create a cardigan.

I spent a while searching for a pattern, but could not decide. Finally this past spring I decided to try an improvised pattern, featuring top-down construction, a circular yoke, and a 7-stitch steek.

I opted to use two strands of the Malabrigo yarn for the neck, cuffs and bottom bands, and held one strand each of Cascade and Malabrigo yarns for everything else. The body was kept simple - plain stockinette, while the neck, cuffs and bottom bands featured a twisted rib. Once the steek was cut, I picked up my stitches, right side facing, purled back, then did a 3-stitch I-cord bind off. I also went with 3/4 length sleeves since it was to be a warmer weather cardigan.

The result was a pleasant surprise! It was a relatively quick project, even if I postponed finishing the front edges far too long.

I kept good notes so I expect I'll try something like this again. I love lightweight cardigans and have a huge stash of laceweight yarns. The next one may be a stash buster project!

Making a Pattern Your Own

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Wed, 17 Apr 2024 18:45:00 +0000

Using a premade pattern for knitting is what most knitters do when they first get into the craft. I've been knitting for many years and still enjoy making things designed by others, even though I also make patterns of my own.

Sometimes, I want to try another designer's pattern to learn a new technique, or to make a garment I've never tried to create before. 2023 was the year I learned how to read a knitting chart and to knit top down sweaters and purchased patterns got me started on both of these.

When I'm learning a new technique, I will often follow a pattern to the letter as my entire focus is on the new technique. The second time around, I will likely veer off into the land of creativity to put my own mark on my creation.

Such is the case with the Helmi Pattern by Mari Muinonen (see picture on the right) available for free on Ravelry. I wanted an open-front cardi/vest and this looked like just the thing. It was also an opportunity to practice reading a chart and to become a bit of stash buster.

I had some Estelle Eco Andean yarn in Milk Chocolate that I bought on sale from Artisanthropy online. Brown is never my first choice, but I thought I might be able to add strands of laceweight yarn from my stash (leftovers largely), make it more colorful. I have called this sort of color blending as mixology for knitters. It is a wonderful way to customize a pattern and make a truly personal and unique garment.

I also opted to add a bit to the neck as I didn't want quite as wide a neckline. I did this by adding a few rows of garter stitch, to blend in with the pattern.

Sometimes I struggle with gauge and while I made gauge with my swatch, by the time I got to the end of the yoke chart, things were looking a little tight. I ended up switching to a 4.5mm needle to compensate. This made my cardi/vest a little snugger through the shoulders. What this means is my open front cardigan is a little more open, but I decided that was okay as I really didn't want to FROG it.

I maintained the same carry-along laceweight through the entire yoke, but once I got to the separation of body and sleeves, started changing colors every six rows. I ended up with a five color repeating stripe pattern. I ended with a wide band of garter stitch as the pattern called for carrying the same green as at the beginning of this section. I repeated the first five color changes in the short sleeves to coordinate with the body.

I didn't want to make my sleeves longer by adding another garter stitch band so I opted for an I-cord cast off. This was the first time trying this type of cast off and I loved it! Then I decided to add an I-cord edging to the entire piece. It finished everything off wonderfully.

After the knitting was done, I decided to add some embellishment. I'd made knitted leaves last year for a different project, but then didn't use them. I thought they would be perfect for this one. I used the same laceweight yarn I'd used in the I-cord to blanket stitch the leaves onto my project. I dug an old pewter clasp out of my recyclable jar and attached it to the I-cord edging at the neck.

While I could declare the project as done, I'm thinking about adding some additional embroidery to it. The garment has a lovely whimsical vibe to it and would be entirely at home in the Shire! I'm including pictures of it before embroidery as I'm still thinking about that.

So, as you can see, even if you'd rather use pre-made patterns for your knitting projects, there are ways to personalize your project:

1. Color blending/mixology for knitters - this is a lovely use for leftover laceweight yarns. Just be sure to swatch while carrying both yarns together.

2. Using a different edge treatment - you can do a different sort of ribbing, use I-cord edging, etc.

3. Embellishments afterwards - there are lots of tutorial videos out there on knitting (or crocheting) shapes such as flowers, leaves, etc. Made in colors to coordinate with your project, this can be a great way to burn through your yarn scrap stash.

4. If you are adventurous and don't mind swatching, you can even choose a different stitch pattern. Just be sure to swatch to ensure the gauge is compatible and the drape is similar to what the pattern calls for. You will need to commit to multiple swatches (at least of the original stitch pattern and the one you want to use).

As many patterns as there are available to knitters, the resulting garments can be as varied as the knitters themselves. Don't be afraid to put your personal stamp on a project. You just might be thrilled with the results.

Happy Knitting!

Snow Day Slouchy Hat

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 19 Feb 2024 17:17:00 +0000

This is part two of my snow days' project: the Snow Day Slouchy Hat.

In the past year, I've knit a number of slouchy hats and my pet peeve is that many lack a proper crown. So instead of a slouchy shape, you end up with what looks like a knitted tongue hanging down the back. I really don't like that look.

So, using the same materials as with the Snow Day Cowl, I made a matching hat to share with you.

Note: my patterns are posted for free without annoying advertising pop-ups. I do this on purpose as some people are intimidated by aggressive advertising, and I want my patterns to be available to everyone. If you are in a position to show a little appreciation for my work, consider buying me a coffee ☕️ using the link on the home page. If you wish to knit items for sale using my patterns, please credit me as the designer and do not underprice your work!

Materials: one ball of Rico Design Fashion Luxury Yarn (alpaca/wool/nylon blend) and one ball of Sugarbush Drizzle (mohair/silk). The Rico lists itself as a super bulky yarn, but I personally think that's a bit of a stretch. If looking to substitute, go with a bulky yarn instead. The Drizzle is a variegated laceweight yarn. The Rico is a matte color so the mohair/silk stands out even though it is much smaller in scale. Keep this in mind when choosing your yarn. Both yarns are held together for the entire project.

Tools: 6 mm circular needle (I used a 16 inch), stitch marker, scissors, tapestry needle, soft tape measure.

Gauge: 3 stitches and 5 rows equal 1 inch in stockinette.

Instructions:

Make a gauge swatch. If your swatch it too big, try a 5.5 mm needle. If your swatch us too small, try a 6,5 mm. It is important to get the gauge right or you won't get the fit you desire.

Using the tape measure, measure the circumference of your head, where the band of your hat will sit. Mine measured 22 inches. To get a comfortably snug fit, I subtracted 10% dropping the measurement to 20 inches. Based on my gauge, the band will require 3 x 20 = 60 stitches.

You can make your hat smaller or larger by using the gauge x desired size. Just remember to make your stitch count divisible by 4 so your ribbing pattern works.

Cast On: Using your preferred cast on method, cast on your desired number of stitches (in my case 60 stitches). I used a cable cast on as I like the edge it gives me. Be sure not to cast on too tight. You want your band to stretch as you reduced the size by 10%.

Join in the round ensuring not to twist your knitting. Begin (k2, p2) ribbing, repeat to the EOR. If you haven't placed your marker already, do so now.

Continue ribbing for 24 rounds.

Next round: (k2, p1, yo, p1), repeat to EOR. (Increase 15 sts in my case - one stitch between each pair of purl stitches. If you have more or fewer pairs, your total increase will differ)

Next round: (k1, yo, k1, p3), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k3, p3), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (sl1, k2, psso, p3), repeat to EOR.

Commence Barnacle Stitch Pattern (next 4 rounds constitutes one pattern repeat)

Round 1: (k2, p3), repeat to EOR.

Round 2: (k1, yo, k1, p3), repeat to EOR.

Round 3: (k3, p3), repeat to EOR.

Round 4: (sl1, k2, psso, p3), repeat to EOR.

Repeat Barnacle Stitch Pattern four more times (i.e. 16 more round).

Next round: (k2, p2tog, p1), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k1, yo, k1, p2), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k3, p2), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (sl1, k2, psso, p2), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k2, p2tog), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k1, yo, k1, p1), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k3, p1), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (sl1, k2, psso, p1), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k2, p1), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (k1, k2tog), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (knit to EOR).

Next round: (K2tog), repeat to EOR.

Next round: (knit to EOR).

Next round: (K2tog, k1, k2tog), repeat to end of round.

Cut yarn leaving a 7-8 inch tail. Thread through tapestry needle. Draw yarn through remaining stitches, pulling to draw the gap closed. Secure the ends.

I took a 2mm crochet hook and made a chain using the Drizzle yarn, long enough yo go around the band three times with length to spare. I threaded it through the yo holes just above the ribbed band taking care not to draw the band together. Remember, your band needs to accommodate your head! But the colors were a nice accent.

Enjoy your hat!

Abbreviations

EOR - end of round

K - knit

P - purl

K2tog - knit the next two stitches together

P2tog - purl the next two stitches together

yo - yarn over

Sl1 - slip one knit-wise

Psso - pass slipped stitch over the two stitches just knitted

CO - cast on, cast off

Snow Day Cowl

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Mon, 19 Feb 2024 16:37:00 +0000

Snow Day Cowl

I love mixing mohair and silk laceweight yarn with other yarns. This time I was looking for a fast project as we were weathering a string of snow days in my area. I decided on a simple mock cable cowl.

Using two strands of yarn, this cowl knits up fast on 6mm needles. You can adjust the circumference and height easily to scale the cowl up or down, depending on the intended wearer.

Materials: I used a ball of Rico Design Fashion Luxury Yarn (alpaca, wool, nylon blend) and a ball of Sugar Bush Drizzle (mohair/silk) for this project. The Rico is listed as a super bulky yarn but I personally think that's a bit of a stretch. If looking to substitute, go with a bulky yarn instead. The Drizzle is a variegated laceweight yarn. The Rico is a matte color so the mohair/silk stands out even though it is much smaller in scale. Keep this in mind when choosing your yarn. Both yarns are held together for the entire project.

Gauge: 3 stitches and 5 rows to 1 inch.

Tools: 6mm circular needle (16 inch was my preference), stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, soft tape measure.

Instructions:

First, stand in front of a mirror and loop the tape measure around your neck to mimic the circumference and drape you want in your cowl. I choose to make mine about 24 inches in circumference.

Make a gauge swatch to ensure your yarn and needles will give you your desired size. If your swatch is too large, choose a smaller needle size (e,g. 5.5 mm and try again. If your swatch is too small, try 6.5 mm needles and try again.

Based on my gauge, I need to cast on 72 stitches. If you want yours to be larger or smaller, make sure the final stitch number is divisible by 4, as that will ensure your stitch pattern works.

Using your preferred cast on method, cast on the desired number of stitches (in my case, 72). I used a cable cast on method as I like the edge that gives me. Join in the round taking care not to twist the stitches. To help avoid this I often don't place my EOR marker until the end of my first round.

Once joined, begin a K2, P2 ribbing. Repeat to the end of the round. If you haven't placed your marker yet, do it now.

Repeat this ribbing for 4 rounds in total. Then commence the mock cable (aka Barnacle Stitch) pattern.

Barnacle Stitch Pattern - note the next four rounds constitutes one pattern repeat

Round 1: (k2, p2), repeat to EOR.

Round 2: (k1, yo, k1, p2) , repeat to EOR.

Round 3: (k3, p2), repeat to EOR.

Round 4: (sl1, k2, psso, p2), repeat to EOR.

Continue doing pattern repeats until you are about an inch from the desired height of your cowl. I did 8 pattern repeats in total (i.e. 32 rounds of pattern) as I have a long neck.

Then complete 4 rounds of (k2, p2) ribbing. Cast off loosely. I use a size larger needle (7mm) when casting off to ensure it isn't tight. This helps ensure consistency in my stitch tension too.

Weave in your ends of yarn. Block if desired.

Enjoy your cowl! Stay tuned, the matching hat isn't far behind!

ABBREVIATIONS

EOR- end of round

K - knit

P - purl

Sl1 - slip one stitch knit-wise

psso - pass slipped stitch over the stitches just knitted

CO - cast on/cast off

Barnacle Fingerless Mittens with Thumb Gussets!

noreply@blogger.com (TheKnittedRaven) — Tue, 28 Nov 2023 19:09:00 +0000

Using my wrist warmer pattern as a base, I wanted to make fingerless mittens with thumb gussets. I used Cascade Llama Lace, doubled, throughout. A fingering weight yarn should also work.

These instructions make a mitten to fit women's medium to large. Mitten is about 10 inches long and 3.5 inches at the widest point unstretched. There is a lot of stretch in these. My hand is almost 8 inches in circumference at the widest point and these fit me. Length of wrist and hand sections can be customized as well as the thumb gusset. To change the width, increase or decrease in multiples of four stitches or size up/down needles used.

This is a great way to use up leftover lace yarn (doubled up) or fingering weight yarn (used single).

Pattern:

Materials: One ball of Cascade Llama Lace yarn (used double throughout). This yarn has 601 yards per ball so you will have plenty left over. I used 58grams or about 349 yards. You can work from the centre and outside of the ball simultaneously so you don't need to wind off a second ball to double up the yarn. Conversely, you can choose two different lace weight yarns in complementary colors. Just be sure to have at least 175 yards of each.

One pair of 2.75 double pointed needles

Scissors, a tapestry needle and a measuring tape.

Gauge: 6 stitches and 12 rows to the inch in pattern

CO 48 stitches on a set of 2.75 mm double pointed needles (16-16-16). Join in the round.

Do (k2, p2) ribbing for 8 rounds. Then commence pattern stitch:

Barnacle Stitch (aka - mock cable stitch)

Round 1: (k2, p2), repeat to end of round.

Round 2: (k1, yo, k1, p2), repeat to EOR.

Round 3: ( k3, p2), repeat to EOR.

Round 4: (sl1, k2, psso, p2), repeat to EOR.

Complete 11 pattern repeats ( or number of repeats for the length you desire to base of the thumb gusset.)

Next round: k1, m1l, k1, p2; then (k2, p2), repeat to end of round. Those first 3 stitches of your round constitute the beginning of the thumb gusset.

Next round: k1, m1l, k1, m1r, k1; p2, then continue in mock cable pattern round 3.

Next two rounds - k5, p2, then maintain mock cable stitch pattern to EOR.

Next round: k1, m1l, k3, m1r, k1, p2, then maintain mock cable stitch pattern to EOR.

Next two rounds: k7, p2, then maintain mock cable stitch pattern to EOR.

Continue increasing the stitches for the thumb gusset in the same manner every third round while maintaining the mock cable stitch pattern until you have the desired stitches needed for your gusset. In this case, I used 21 stitches and completed two more rounds without increases. If you need a larger gusset carry on for another increase. Make sure you end on mock cable pattern round 4.

Next round: Knit across thumb gusset. Keep these stitches on a separate double pointed needle for now. Continue the round as follows: k1, m1l, p1, (k2,p2) repeat to last four stitches in the round, k2, p1, m1l, k1.

Slip gusset stitches to a holder or waste yarn. Then slip the last stitch on needle three to the working needle. Continue on in pattern: yo, k1, p2, (k1, yo, k1, p2); repeat to EOR.

Do 4 complete pattern repeats (16 rounds), or the number you desire for length. Then complete 8 rounds of (k2,p2) ribbing and cast off.

Thumb gusset - with working yarn, pick up stitches as follows:

Pick up four stitches where two were added to rejoin the mitten top in the round. Then pick up the loop right before the reserved stitches, then k4 from the holder (9). Then k8 onto the second needle. Then k9 remaining on the holder and pick up the loop between the last reserved stitch and the first stitch picked up. (26 sts)

Next round: k4, knit loop and next stitch together as one, k3 (8 on needle 1). Then k8 stitches ( 8 stitches on needle 2). Then k8, and knit the last stitch and loop from needle 3 as one (8 stitches on needle 3). Work these 24 stitches in stockinette for 6 rounds.

Next round: (k2,p2) to end of round.

Repeat this k2, p2 ribbing 5 more rounds. Then Cast off.

Weave in ends. Repeat pattern for second mitten. Right and left hands are alike.