This is how to replace a diverter valve on a compresion style tub set up
what you want to do is turn your diverter so your water drains down into your tub spout
You don’t have to turn off your water but you do want to make sure that the water
is drained from your shower head so that’s why you are
putting it down to your tub spout what you need to do is remove your index button by putting the knife
underneath there. This one has a
philips screw to remove the
handle.
And it’s a good idea to plug your toe stop
so you don’t loose your screw down the drain.
Next your going to undo your escuteon just a little bit. And than you can twist out
the sleeve like so
with the escuteon.
And you don’t want to grab it
on the ends because you don’t want to damage the threads especially on the ends.
Now this exposes our diverter valve. What you want to use is a deep socket set and slip that over the
body and than if you have a piece of laminated
paper or even a piece of paper. What you can do is
insert that into your hole.
And that way divert any water that, leftover water that may come out from the hole.
There is probably not really any water left
in here because
the deal is turned off but anyway just in case
almost
there
And theres the old diverter valve and the washer. Were also gonna look to make sure this little flat washer came with it
take a peek inside there
to make sure everything is out of there which it is
prepare our new diverter valve
theres our old one. You can see our new one has the same washer
the same washers here
and we’re going to want to finger tighten the sleeve and then we’re
gonna want to wrap teflon tape around there.
Now you really don’t have to
but I recommended it in that it will make it
easier to remove it
in the future should you need to.
And the best way to wrap teflon tape is like so, with the teflon tape at the back
hold it on with your finger
skip the first one or two threads
to avoid cross threading
if you need to twist it a little bit
so that you can skip the first
one or two threads you can do that
and you are just going to go three or four turns around.
Give it a nice coating of teflon.
It’s kind of funny teflon
pans are what we cook with, so, that shows you
that it keeps the food and everything
from sticking against there
same principle here makes it easier to
remove in the future
but it also
fills in any regular gaps in the material. Undo our diverter valve all the way. You can see
how it pushes this out.
And this is why this is a compression style diverter valve. It has got a bibb washer here.
You can rebuild these if you need to by replacing the bibb washer
as well as
replacing the sleeve
washer that’s inside here
That’s another story.
I will have to make a video on that one someday. For now this
is replacing the whole deal
and these are almost cheap enough to replace the whole deal.
Anyway, here goes. Insert it nice and easy
and hand turn it in to
avoid getting it cross threaded feel for it
to make sure everything is good there.
Slip our deep socket
over the top and tighten it up nice and tight. And go a quarter turn past tight.
There we go.
Nice and snug there.
And now we are ready to test it for any leaks.
So I am going to unclog my drain for a minute.
And I am going to go ahead and turn the water on,
and look inside there.
And we are going to try to set it on the tub
portion.
So that it goes into the tub. So here goes.
Everything is working like it should and we are going to look for any leaks inside there. And feel around inside there. It looks like we are good. No leaks there. Everything is working like it should. So now peaking in there, I’ll aim my shower head away, I am going to switch the diverter to the shower portion.
That is to the shower portion and everything is working like it should.
Switch it back to the tub.
And we have no leaks there. So were good there.
Resetting our faucet handle.
We are just going to spin the sleeve back in till it
tightens all the way up.
And we want to make sure this sleeve tightens all the way down
into the handle. And we’re good there.
Than we can go ahead and tighten the escutcheon.
and this is a good point to clean
up our escutcheon here. And we are going to make sure the rest of our escutcheons
are tightened up nice and good. So that everything seats against the tub enclosure.
And than we’re ready to insert our handle.
Tomorrow I am getting some
new handles so this
handles not going to be the prettiest handle in the world.
I will be replacing it tomorrow so no big deal here.
Just going to show you how it is done. And than the diverter gets set down. That way
when we turn on the water it’s showing that it is going down into the tub spout. And when we turn it up for the shower it’s showing that it is going up to the shower. That’s how to replace a diverter stem for a compression style fitting.

The post How To Change Out A Diverter Stem For A Compression Type Shower to Tub Valve first appeared on The Maintenance Ear.

ok
just wanted to through a bunch of things today
on dishwashers
If you ever see water coming from right here running down
you can see like a calcium deposit or you see water dripping from that side
usually what it is is a stuck float switch
now these float switches on this particular model
have a little phillips screw back here that comes off
And it is usually just soap scum, soap scum just builds up inside there
and it will look a lot worse than it actually is but it is actually just soap residue left behind
So let me show you here I’m not sure, this one is not leaking like I was saying but
oh yeah, you can see all the soap residue inside there well this
little cup floats up as the water fills and engages this little switch here releases that
little switch and that’s how the water knows
well that’s how the dishwasher you know is told to shut the water off
so anyway we gotta clean all this stuff out here
and that is how you fix that problem
So I’m gonna clean this one all out since I am turning the unit
that way
when someone moves in
they don’t have a surprise the first time they use the dishwasher
Up here on the dishwasher this is your air gap
now if you ever see water
spit out of this air gap
it’s an indication
of the garbage disposal drain line
being clogged from the dishwasher air gap
under here you can see this line going into the garbage disposal, this is
our disposal to drain line and this gets built up with gunk and food so you got to
undo the clamp here and clear this line out or replace the line
one of the two of and for stubborn ones you can hook it up
a hose bibb and just flush it out, clean it out
there’s another way to do it also where you can take a brush
and run it down
inside here
remove this cap here
Now if your dishwasher wasn’t draining
that would be a good time to check inside this cap also
often there is a
set this down so I can get my other hand on it
anyways you just squeeze these two clips in and than just pull the cap right out
kept
I don’t know if you saw that but there is like a chicken bone down there
sometimes if you’re disposal drain is not draining
it’s time to check this here
and
in order to get that chicken bone to float back up what I’m gonna try and do is dump some water down inside there and see if it will float up to the top for me
sometimes it will float right up when the line is filled
If it’s light enough, I’ve seen it with pieces of plastic and such
It’s full now
but nope it’s not going to float up there for me but if it was like a plastic toothpick
or something like that sometimes you can get it to float up so what I will have to do is just run this through the drain cycle for just a second and its gonna shoot water up and all but I’ve got to shoot that out of there
anyway I will come back to that later I just wanted to show you guys a bunch of stuff
with dishwashers
Sometimes these
the spring for this gets
broken off, often they come off
and you can separate the two halves of the door and than reset the spring, it’s a little
tricky but you just gotta get a place, to find, to reset that spring latch
to
sometimes it takes a little bit of an adjustment to get it, let’s see
this one’s working ok, well it is not very strong so this one looks like possibly
the spring has come off
because it should
only open automatically when it gets to the right point
yeah this one is
definitely broken so that needs to be reworked
to reset the spring
What else can I show you?
Sometimes
the impeller will get stuck
dishwashers, there is four screws that hold the bottom trim plate on
and each type of impeller is a little bit different
this particular model has like
a fan connected to it and you can just turn the
fan blades to unstick the impeller
Let me remove these four screws. Other kinds you will have to use like a screwdriver
like two screwdrivers and kind of wedge it against the
motor impeller in order to un stick the impeller
You just kind of keep turning it until it gives
You’ll feel it be like really tough for a bit
and than all of a sudden it will move really easy
This is probably going to be a little nasty
in here
got our sound insulation here
keeping the noise out
the impeller
if you had turned the
dishwasher on and you hear like a humming but it’s not kicking on that’s
usually your impeller stuck
make sure you turn the power off
and than
reach right back here and I don’t know if you can really see it that well but let me see if I can get my
flashlight going here to give you guys a lookie loo
put you inside there
a little bit and
I don’t know if you can see the fan blades
there but I’m going to turn them with my other hand
anyway sometimes if they were like really hard to turn at first
and than it will just give and it will spin freely
It should spin nice and freely and that is how you can unstick those if it was stuck
other kinds you’ll see the impeller shaft
right here and you’ll be able to turn it
anyway that is a little bit about dishwashers there
some of the most common things you will come across maintenance wise

The post 5 Often Occurring Troubles With Dishwashers first appeared on The Maintenance Ear.

Got A fridge not cooling here
and you can hear the compressors kicked on
but you can hear one of the first things to check for is that the fan is not kicking on
so it could just be that the fan is stuck
so
what we’re gonna do is remove this ice tray deal
just by pushing up here
and sliding this out and there is two screws on the back that hold the fan channel in
so I’m gonna remove these two screws here
and this is one of the first things to check for when you’ve got a fridge that is not cooling
check for a stuck fan motor first
now that may not be the only thing going on
lift this fan channel up here and slide it out
ok
and there is our fan, you can see it’s not spinning very fast
It should be spinning faster than that
And chances are what it is is that it is too close
the fan blade is too close
see how it was rubbing against the back
and that’s why it wasn’t spinning very fast
so what I’m gonna do is pull that forward a little bit more
it’s probably a little bit safer to
turn the power off first but I’m just gonna get this done
ok
I took the whole thing off there
anyway place this on and now it’s out a little bit more and doing what it should now that was keeping the air from being able to blow down into the fridge and the freezer wasn’t circulating the air like it should
behind the fan channel on this side it’s got an adjustment here
you usually don’t have to adjust these to much
but if you wanted your freezer to be colder or needed your freezer to be colder you can adjust this dial by pulling out and turning that, each model has it’s own peculiarities. Ok now that we’ve got the fridge fixed theoretically what we need to check for is
under the pan to see if there is any ice there which there probably is and the freezer drain line is probably clogged
The way we can tell this is if we’ve got water dripping
down here
which we do so were going to need to clear that out
but I will put that on the next video.

The post Refrigerator Not Cooling First Thing To Check For first appeared on The Maintenance Ear.

Alright, got a pretty old unit well got a unit low on freon.
You can see one of these energy
devices that turns off the AC on the front of the unit some of the electrical companies out here in California
hook these up so they can turn the
unit off at peak hours and than they pass on a little bit of uh… energy
savings to you, give you a cheaper rate on your
air conditioner. This one is actually
mounted on the service door.
Anyway I am gonna take this door off.
And I have got a unit that is low on freon.
It is not cooling so.
At least not cooling very good anyway.
Get into this and than
I’ll go downstairs
and turn the unit on
Get the door here. Put this off to the side. There we go. Let’s see what is going on here.
I am going to go ahead and get my
gauges set up here.
And than charge this up here.
My gauges are not in the best shape especially the high side so I am just going to be charging it up through the low side today.
It’s time for me to order some new gauges.
Right here is our service line hook up.
And what you want to do is make sure
the valve is off
up top here
on the low side and the high side. Ok
Now remove my schrader valve cap and listen for any kind of hissing.
To indicate if there is a leak.
And it seems Ok.
And it’s got these quick connect fittings. You always want to use these quick connect fittings.
You really want to wear gloves to but since i’m just going through the high
side. Not so bad I mean I’m just going through the low side. It is not so bad on the low side.
A little bit worse on the high side.
Ok now that the
line is hooked up there we want to make sure that we purge any air
from the lines.
And than I will go ahead and hook up the middle yellow line to our refrigerant can.
Up top here.
And again
got a
quick connect
up here. You don’t need a quick connect up here on the
middle line as much
because you can turn the refrigerant off here.
But anyway I have one on there so.
And were going to open our can of refrigerant here.
and this is R-22. Ok.
Here we go and than purge our line here
So I am just going to crack it.
Let a little bit of refrigerant out. And now we are ready to charge it. So I am just going to open it for a second and than go down and turn the unit on so we can charge it.
Yeah it feels like it is low so. Ok I am going to run downstairs.
Be right back.
Ok. So were on now. Everything is running good.
The fan motor is running.
The compressor has kicked on.
And
you can see this is showing like only ten pounds of pressure.
Not too good.
Definitely low on freon so.
Oh yeah. Sounds thirsty. So I was working in this unit yesterday
and noticed the air conditioner wasn’t cooling so I knew I needed to get up here today.
Get up here early before it gets hot.
Here is the accumulator and it is starting to get cold
It is cold about half way up
Anyway I am just going to be doing this one by feel
Because like I said my gauges
are kind of on their last leg.
Time to replace them.
See how loose that is I mean this could be tightend up but
also the needles are kind of bent and the caps
are starting to fall off
so time for some new gauges
but these are a cappilary tube system and
the nice thing about a capillary tube system is
it is a lot more forgiving than other systems
It can actually, you would have to actually really kind of try to
overcharge these
Anyway once it is nice and cold here on both sides of the accumulator than I know that it is going to be good. So I am just going to
Wait until this flashes nice and ice cold
And like I said if I
put a little bit of extra refrigerant in
it is going to be okay because it just holds it in the pot.
And the way the capillary tube system works is
It is a fixed orifice so
It only allows so much refrigerant through at a time
you know if you’re a little bit
overcharge it is not like it
lets more refrigerant through.
It just stores it here and lets it go through.
As long as you are only charging
with vapor.
you don’t want to flip your can over and
charge it with liquid because than the liquid might
stay in the lines
and can actually cause liquid slugging of the compressor
You can probably hear the refrigerant
going into the system
You can hear the change now as the pressures are starting to get
balanced and get more closer to where they
should you can
hear the sound difference less and less
refrigerant is being
suctioned in as it starts to climb.
We definitely have a leak somewhere. Possibly here at the schrader valve.
Which is where you usually get your leaks. You can kind of see some signs of moisture or oil right there. I am kind of guessing it is from the schrader valve. I will pop it off and take a peak inside the high side.
You can hear the pressure difference now of the refrigerant going in is a lot less than when we first did this. And it doesn’t seem to be leaking from the schrader valve so I will go ahead and tighten that back on.
What I have is a leak repair additive that I can add to the system because this one it has been good the whole summer. It hasn’t gone low on refrigerant or anything so it has just got a tiny micro leak in it somewhere. Those additives are kind of good for that as long as there is no moisture in the system. Ok and feeling my line it is still not cold. It is kind of warm. And we can check what our pressure is at here. I’ll try to get the camera to focus a little bit. There we go. We will go ahead and turn the hand valve off.
See where were at. Were at about about 40 pounds pressure there
and on the green dial were only at fifteen so
we got a ways to go. You can probably hear it I am going to turn it back on.
I hear a lot of people don’t like these Janitrolls to much, but
they are pretty easy to work on. Pretty simple.
Maybe I’ve just gotten used to them.
Been out here for a while so.
The kind of nice thing about only
charging through the low side.
If you are using the high side you can get
more of an accurate
reading of what your refrigerant levels are at
but the nice thing about only using
the low side
is it is actually
going to release less freon
into the air
into the atmosphere
when you purge the high side
it lets a lot more freon out
and you know the high side is your liquid side so when
you disconnect your hose after your finished
and you have to release that
freon that is left in the hose
all that liquid refrigerant is in there
your having to release all that
but this just going through the low side
it’s releasing a little bit less freon. I am sure some people disagree with me on that but that is Ok.
anyway when you work with refrigerant long enough you
probably will reach some day where your
gauges really are not working properly
and you are going to need to be able to charge the unit by feel
or by temperature
and the other way we can check this is
check for the fifteen to twenty degree split inside the unit at an incoming and an outgoing register.
I have a video on that if you want to see that I can put the link on this video.
Its starting to get there.
It is starting to feel a little colder down here. Alright.
Up on the roof top in
Palm Springs here.
Give you a little view around. Look around.
While this thing charges up here.
Pretty nice up on the
palm trees here.
My palm trees are due for some trimming.
Got a lot of dates on them.
Pretty good dates to.
I have snacked on a few.
If you look around you can see the mountains over there.
Its a nice cooler day.
It has actually cooled off out here now.
This Summer was a little bit milder.
I think the hottest it got was about one nineteen, something like that.
I remember a few days where it was a hundred and sixteen. Those were pretty warm.
but I have had other summers where it has hit as high as a hundred twenty seven degrees and
so this Summer was pretty mild.
I got away easy.
I went through and well
we preventative maintenanced
the heck out of our air conditioning units to make it a better summer so. We had a much better summer.
This can take some time.
There is a couple ways to speed the charge.
With the compressor being low on freon
the freon helps cool
the compressor and
with the compressor being low on freon the compressor starts to get pretty warm.
If you have an ice pack you can put that on top here and that can speed the charge. Or some really cold water so I have got some really cold water. And I am just going to pour it on here. Avoiding the electrical contacts obviously. And that helps speed the charge a little bit. Its starting to get there.
Ok, once I am all finished I will have to follow this up with that leak additive. To seal of any leaks here.
See this line down at the bottom of the compressor
kind of funny
it is actually a heater. It heats up the bottom of the compressor.
And that helps it when it first starts to be in kind of the right condition for starting the compressor.
Right here is a filter drier.
You can see the arrow
pointing this way.
On a heat pump the arrow will point both ways because a heat pump has
a reversing valve where it changes the direction
where as here the condensor is removing heat from the unit.
and at the evaporator it absorbs heat. On a heat pump it can switch to where you know the
evaporator was absorbing heat and the condensor giving off the heat
on a heat pump it can switch back to where now the condensor becomes the evaporator
And the evaporator becomes the condensor. They switch roles. So you can heat your unit with a heat pump or you can cool your unit. Heat pumps are a lot more sensitive about the charge.
Your charge needs to be a lot more accurate where as like I was telling you these units have capillary tubes so they are a lot more forgiving. It’s getting there. Drink a little water myself.
Give you another shot of Palm Springs here.
The mountains there.
There’s a tram that goes all the way to the top of the mountain up there. I guess there is like a cafe
stuff like that.
I’ve been out here like eight years
I still haven’t been up there.
Some day maybe.
Or not
A bird is snacking on some dates there. Happy campers. Alright see how we’re doing here. It’s getting there. It just takes a little time.
This unit seems to be in pretty good condition
for being twenty six years old. Still kicking. Still kicking out the cool air. Getting there.
This is an accumulator
it helps prevent liquid refrigerant from getting to the
compressor and slugging the pistons.
A lot of units these days don’t have these on them some of the heat pumps have them inside the unit.
These ones have been done outside. It seems they went to
some extra steps to preserve these units. This one doesn’t have it but on
some of these other ones they have got a like another safety device this one has been taken out like on the high side it’s got a little piston in it as a protective shut off.
See if one of the other units has it. I will show it to you here. This one no.
bring you over here as this takes a little time. Wow all these units are gone.
Looks like they took them out on this whole roof.
Maybe I am not going to get to show you.
Here is one. See right here this deal.
Not exactly sure what you call this exactly.
Maybe somebody else can tell me.
And exactly how it work i’m not
sure either i think it has just like a
piston that
cuts off the flow if something’s
wrong. If there is something wrong in the
system.
Something a little bit more for me to learn about.
There is always more.
Anyway go back to our unit over there.
You can see these service mats.
You always want to do your
refrigerant work,
your air condition work, on the mats.
Especially if you are changing a fan motor or putting in a new unit. You don’t want to put any chunks in the built up roof material. Anyway it is getting colder. Were not there yet.
Disconnect box is over there.
Kind of funny story I heard of some places
where the disconnect
they had people stealing all the units. They were stealing air conditioning units.
Some rougher areas
have to do some drastic methods but anyway.
I heard about where they, what they did
was they bypassed the disconnnect
so that if you wanted to
turn off power to work on the unit you would have to go into the unit itself and
turn off the breaker.
It is sort of like an electric fence
I was thinking about it is kinda like having an electric fence
a deterent for people stealing units, stealing refrigerant, and
stealing the entire units.
and by having the power where you can’t
disconnect it
they were less likely to take those
and they were stealing the disconnects and all that kind of stuff too so
there is some rougher areas out there that call for some
drastic measures
not not the norm
but in those situations
people have to get creative.
Have to do something different if there is a
rough area. Alright it is getting nice and chilly now. Still got a little ways. Might put a little more water on the compressor here. Try and speed this up.
I can feel it flash alot, you know, after I put the water on.
And than I feel it right here. At the unit it just
seems like all of a sudden it draws a lot
more refrigerant in.
It’s starting to flash nice and cold now. We are almost there.
Now I don’t know if you can see it so much in the camera but you can start to see
a little bit of sweat on
on the line.
As this gets colder. Not completely there yet but we’re real close. This is the little high side line to the compressor.
You want to avoid
touching that especially on that end.
I mean back here
this part of it it is not so hot.
But right there it is really hot. I have burned my arm lots of times by accident. Touch that aghhh tshhh. Looks like not the best soldering job down there but definetely not the worst I’ve seen.
This kind of looks like a newer compressor to like this isn’t the original
compressor. I’m just guessing. Like it was replaced at some point. Augh yeah we’re getting nice and chilly.
Chilly, Chilli.
The final test again is going to be checking for the fifteen to twenty degree split inside.
But it’s gonna happen. I have done enough of these to know
the way it is. Were good now. Nice and chilly.
Can’t trust my gauges. They are just too old. I gotta get some new gauge heads. See how it is showing
twenty five
on the green dial.
Fifty on the pressure. Nice and cool today. Man, what a difference it makes. I think it is supposed to be like a high of 81 today, 85, I am not too sure, but it is nice now. Probably about seventy six degrees outside. If feels good. Nice day.
Ok, we are there now. Nice and chilly. So I am going to go ahead and turn off the line here. And than disconnect the line. Listen for any leaks there. And everything is Ok. And than
make sure we put our schrader valve cap back on.
That is like our second gate to keep the refrigerant in the system. I like to do them a quarter turn past tight with my pliers. Not to crazy, just crazy enough. So there we go.
We’re good there. Come up here,
and turn our refrigerant can off.
Disconnect our hoses.
Than we have to release the refrigerant
from the line. We don’t want to leave it
stored in there. Unless I was going to go and charge another unit right away which I am
not.
So I am just going to go ahead and release it. There we go, and now its out. That one too. The middle one also.
Like I said if we had the high side hooked up than when we
release it you would
see it just shhh
spraying out like a white mist come out
a lot more refrigerant gets trapped
in that line.
And that’s kind of the advantage in only hooking up the high side (I meant low side).
really the more accurate method is to hook up the high side but anyway.
We are good here. Alright.
Subscribe so you can get some of the
be the first to get some of the new videos when I
put new videos up.
I will try to make some more good videos for you.
I’ll see you out there.
Ok so here it is inside the unit. It has already dropped to
seventy five
I think that it started around seventy eight seventy nine.
Something like that.
And the air feels nice and cool coming out of the vent. Lets go back here to
where the evaporator is. The air handler right here.
And just like on the roof, the low side should be nice and chilly all the way to right here.
And it is. Nice and chilly.
You can see it. You can kind of see it starting to sweat. You can see on my finger. For a second
how it’s like moisture.
So that is why we have got the insulation here.
So oh it’s nice and chilly.Perfect see it there the moisture on my finger. There we go. We got our condensate drain. The drain vent
Right here alright. Good old hydronic supply lines.
Good to go.

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