The Natural Aristocrat

The Rather Timely Demise of The Natural Aristocrat

2011-09-23T17:21:00.000-07:00

I suppose this will be more of a posterity post than anything to be deemed actually informative, however I have officially decided to end The Natural Aristocrat. It's reputation (if it still has one), it's history and it's name no longer espouse the ideas and the lessons I have learned in the recent months. I will simply let the domain name expire and allow the blog to bow out gracefully from existence. I do plan on starting a new website/blog/pulpit soon, however I currently have no idea what it will be called and when it will actually come about. All I know it that will definitely be more of an outlet for my own musings than something solely dedicated to style. I would like to thank all of those who continue to visit the site, and will send out another post when I have created a new forum from which to speak.

P.S. For those of you kind enough to inquire, the LSAT went well, I scored in the top 20% for all test takers within the last three years. However I have the opportunity to tilt the cards in my favor by pursuing subsequent bachelor's degrees (Psychology and most likely Economics), which will not only boost my pre-law school GPA but also allow me the foundation from which to explore the possibilities of a phD program later in life.

Taking a Break

2011-03-23T16:41:00.000-07:00

I'm going to be taking a break from blogging for a while to focus on the remaining months leading up to the LSAT I'm taking in June. In order to score my absolute best I need to put aside all distractions, this here blog included, along with various other social media. I'm not sure when I'll be back, but I might update with a simple post every now and again. I have a lot I would like to share with you all but do not have the time to do so until a later date. Until then, visit the other sites on my blogroll, all of which feature incredible content posted by top notch bloggers. Thank all of you for your support and your readership.

-David

Spring/Summer Inspiration: Polo Ralph Lauren

2011-03-22T11:48:00.000-07:00

Ralph Lauren's Polo lines have always played a key role in my wardrobe, not just for their timeless goods, but also because of their styling. A lot of my personal style developed because of key looks the RL team has put together over time. Here's their latest for Spring/Summer 2011. A lot of what I wear is very similar to this, but believe you me, Mr. Lauren's photos are much better quality than my own.

White Pants are essential when the weather heats up, not only do they keep you cool, they look good with just about anything. Madras ties are a great way to keep color apparent in your wardrobe. at work or around town. They have also nicely paired this outfit with the goes-with-anything brown tassel loafers and tan jacket.

Not just for St. Patrick's Day, green pants (and bright pants in general) are an awesomely loud way of declaring your affinity for all things warm weather (boating, golf, gin and tonics, tennis, croquet, margaritas, pool parties, etc.). Notice how a usually prominent purple shirt is actually mellowed by the brightness of the pants. Use this to your advantage and pair light or faded colors with bright colors up top or vice versa. As you can tell, tassel loafers and a tan jacket are becoming a theme here. I have a tan Prince of Wales check Brooks Brothers jacket in a lightweight wool that I wear in the exact same situations you see above.

The key to pulling off pants in bright colors like this is understanding how to pair different colors together. Purple and green work well here because they are similar in tone and brightness, they are also somewhat complementary on the color scale. The tie serves to pick up the colors in the outfit and the jacket serves as a neutralizer, keeping the colors from running wild yet also allowing them to pop. I like the idea of wearing your sunglasses in your chest pocket, but I still think there ought to be a pocket square behind them.

Sometimes you have to wear a suit outside and endure the heat. Whether it be a wedding or a social function it's best to use the advantages of a cotton khaki suit to keep you cool while you enjoy yourself (and subsequently watch everyone else melt in their darker colors and heavier fabrics). Keep it simple like the look shown above with a blue or white shirt, a simple but slightly darker tie and some nice shoes.

Getting a little more casual now, I'll introduce you to some properly jaunty GTH pants. When you wear these, balance is of the utmost priority. It's very easily to overdo this look. The boat shoes, OCBD and bow tie are simple and ground the pants enough to both become the focal point of the outfit (which is the point after all) and also still enjoy a casual not-too-stuffy air.

I'll be honest with you, most of the time on the weekends when I go out during the day and it's 90 to 100 degrees, I'm not wearing pants and a jacket. I'm wearing shorts and a shirt. This is the proper way to do summer shorts while still looking decent in case you should you maybe run into a client or decide to have lunch at a nice place. The obvious reason this outfit shines is the tassel loafers, which are shiny in their own right. The crisp shirt is more formal than a polo and works well with the tailored shorts.

When you're on the links, at a BBQ, a pool party, or even just running some errands, a polo and shorts are the way to go. It's simple, timeless, and just looks good. Throw on some white bucks (dirty, since you actually wear them and don't spend hours fretting over scuffs and such, just rub them together every once in a while to get the major ones out) or some boat shoes to finish it off. This and the above outfit are really the opportunities to go full GTH with bright bold colors above and below. They're also great for breaking out and displaying any nice surcingle or D-ring belts you've got lying around.

I love me some tennis, but when the sun is beating down on your head and the temperatures literally are hot enough to cook an egg, the only way to play is in all white everything. Keep your polo trim in pique cotton, your shorts short in cotton or mesh, and your sneakers crisp with white socks.

The outfits above are ones that will work in just about any situation you're likely to encounter in the warm months. I'll be showcasing some more Spring/Summer looks from various other marques in the weeks to come.

Happy St. Patrick's Day

2011-03-17T10:11:00.000-07:00

Jacket and Tie by Brooks Brothers / Shirt by Grant Thomas / Pocket Square by Ashear

Belt by Polo Ralph Lauren / Jeans by Paper Denim & Cloth / Socks by H&M

Shoes by Mezlan / Briefcase by Johnston & Murphy

It is commonly said that everyone's a little Irish on March 17th. I would venture that may be due to the amount of Jameson and Guinness running through their veins at any given time, but none-the-less it is a joyous occasion. The history of it is actually very religious as you may or may not know. St. Patrick was the man responsible for converting much of Ireland to Christianity from their native polytheism. Over time it transitioned from a religious event to a more general celebration of maintaining Irish culture and allowing those of Irish descent to get their Gaelic on. My Irish heritage comes from my direct ancestor King James I who ruled Scotland first, then England and Ireland and reclaimed the throne for the House of Stuart (tartan anyone?). In my family it's traditional that every St. Patrick's Day fathers and sons have have a Guinness together. Whatever your tradition might be, and whatever your heritage might be, I wish you a Happy St. Patrick's Day. Beannachtam na Feile Padraig!

The All-American

2011-03-15T12:26:00.000-07:00

Jacket by Cricketeer, Shirt by Alex Cannon, Tie by J. Crew

Khakis by Polo RL, Double Monks by Mezlan

Navy blazer, khakis, white shirt, and a repp tie. It's simple, timeless and unbeatably classic; hence the All-American moniker. It's a look you can never go wrong with. I chose it to try out this vintage 100% pure wool American union made Cricketeer blazer I picked up yesterday for $4. It's not perfect and needs some work, so as I'm slowly learning my sewing machine I'm going to use it for experiments in tailoring. Until then, it'll serve duty as another navy blazer in my rotation.

JFK Inspired Weekend

2011-03-12T11:40:00.000-08:00

I recently came across this photo of JFK on his yacht:

Which inspired this outfit:

Pique Polo by Ralph Lauren, Railroad Stripe Jacket by Banana Republic
Khakis by J. Crew Belt is vintage no label, Socks by H&M, Bucks by Walk-Over

This look also combines ideas from the past two days, including a bright shirt against a neutral foundation, a polo with a sport coat, and a sport coat that is (slightly) lighter than the pants. The blue socks with off-white pants and shoes obviously served as the basis for this getup, but I decided to take it one step further with some more color and a more Spring like overall look.

If You're Going to Wear A Crazy Shirt...

2011-03-11T12:04:00.000-08:00

All vintage everything today: Jacket by Land's End, Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren,

Tie by Macy's Men's Store, Chinos by LL Bean, Strongwings by B.A. Mason,

Tie clip, belt, and pocket square are all vintage no-label goods

You had better wear it with a solid foundation! I've been meaning to wear this old RL OCBD for a while now but haven't gotten around to doing so until now. I thought about playing up the color of the shirt in the tie, pants, socks, etc. but ultimately just wound up allowing it to speak for itself which I think makes it pop even more. Since these are all vintage goods, it also means they were all made in the USA, which I feel good about since it's a very American look.

Some proponents of old school very traditional menswear will tell you that your pants have to be darker than your jacket. Well, that's not always the case. With something like this you can definitely get away with wearing a khaki colored jacket with navy chinos just as well as you could with the converse combination. I think an outfit is more about overall balance than it is about following specific rules. Even more importantly, if it looks good and you like it, that's all that matters.

Casual Thursday

2011-03-10T15:50:00.000-08:00

Polo, Khakis, Belt and Pocket Square by Polo Ralph Lauren

Sport Coat by Brooks Brothers / Loafers by Allen Edmonds

Like many of you, work in a place that doesn't necessarily require me to dress up. I do so because I enjoy dressing well and looking good (as you should too). This gives me a nice amount of leeway into what I choose to wear, as my range of potential combinations range from a polo and jeans to a suit. It's now in the high 80's here meaning that I am limited on the days I can still get away with wearing a wool sport coat or blazer. This is the last one in my stable that is lightweight enough to actually suit summer wear. I paired it with a polo today to maximize lightness and breathability.

Despite what many people say, I think a polo with a popped collar under a sport coat looks incredibly smashing and ups the dandy quotient enough to warrant the omission of a tie from my normal outfit equation. The pocket square picks up and highlights the red stripes in the polo and adds a more formal air to the outfit. A fresh haircut (courtesy of my Golf Foxtrot), signals the arrival of warm temperatures and always makes everything look a little better. The trim khakis with cuffed ends and sharp tassel loafers don't hurt either. One of the best things about this look is how approachable, yet sharp this combination really is. Try it out and see for yourself.

Your Everyday Outfit

2011-03-09T12:38:00.000-08:00

Tie by Jacobs & Roberts for Nordstrom / Shirt and Khakis by Polo Ralph Lauren

Sport Coat by H Hilfiger / Belt and Tie Clip are vintage

Variations of the outfit I'm wearing today have subtly over time become my standard everyday outfit. Then it hit me just exactly what that means. I realized that I actually feel more comfortable wearing a tie than not wearing one. While looking at other people around me at lunch today I realized I am more comfortable wearing this than I would be wearing baggy pants, a t-shirt and sneakers. Perhaps quite obvious when I look at my wardrobe but fascinating when contrasted with the average American's outfit du jour. I also forgot a tie clip yesterday when I left the house and spent a little while just marveling at how even such a small omission affects my overall idea of the outfit. I also highly favor loafers over oxfords, and although I have a drawer full of socks I rarely ever wear them. It's little details like this that help define our personal style, our image, and how we choose to present ourselves to the world.

I got this H Hilfiger jacket a while back and promised a review of it as it is my first Hilfiger item in over ten years. It's half-lined unstructured futura Italian cotton with working surgeon's cuffs. Patch pockets are a nice touch and add to the overall American trad look. I'm not a fan of the cut at the bottom of the jacket, I would prefer if it cut away more instead of being straight down. The fabric, for being Italian, and on a supposedly higher end jacket attracts way too much lint to be ever used in a nice setting, I'm thinking it actually works better over a polo or OCBD than it does over a dress shirt and silk tie, but I just had to try it out. The finishing and stitching is just average, and to be honest the button holes are atrocious. Luckily I only paid $8 for it (new with tags at the thrift store!). And despite all it's shortcomings, it really is the perfect navy blazer for warm climates such as mine and will see a lot of use in the near future.

Note, I'm wearing my belt with the buckle to the side because, as my favorite belt (besides the buffalo), it gets a ton of wear and desperately needs to be restitched.

Things You Shouldn't Buy But Can't Turn Down

2011-03-08T15:46:00.000-08:00

Tie by Sero ($5), Shirt and Blazer by Polo Ralph Lauren

Jeans by Paper Denim & Cloth, Loafers by Footjoy

While shopping for a new sofa this past weekend I noticed a Steinmart was closing right next to the furniture store and advertising huge discounts. I mainly stopped in to see if I could buy one of their clothing busts for tailoring and taking pictures. Unfortunately they weren't selling them but I did find some good deals. The tie above is the namesake of the title for this post. It's by a brand I've never heard of named Sero, and it's obviously a Vineyard Vines copy. It's also made in China (by hand, ooh! that makes up for it!) and quite thin. Normally I would obviously never buy such a thing but I really just couldn't turn down the tennis motif. The tie was only $5 so I'm not too concerned about it, and I know it will look good with most of my the contents of my closet.

I also picked up some yellow Polo Ralph Lauren chinos for $15 and a copy of Alan Flusser's Dressing the man for $20. Not a bad deal considering I have wanted both of those items for quite some time. For those of you who don't have a copy of Dressing the Man, I highly suggest picking one up from Amazon, it's the quintessential primer on menswear.

Pink and Green

2011-03-05T12:27:00.000-08:00

Pique Polo, Cashmere Sweater, and Cotton Khakis by Polo Ralph Lauren

Grosgrain Belt is vintage, Suede Boat Shoes by Sperry

Pink and green are the hailing colors of the preppy kingdom. While it isn't known absolutely why these two colors were chosen, the closest we come is the famous quote from author Tom Wolfe, who reflected upon the state of dress of those dwelling in the Northeast, and not only invented the term 'Go To Hell', but also perhaps sparked a wave of style that has reached nearly every corner of the globe.

"The jackets were mostly navy blazers, and the ties were mostly striped ties or ties with little jacquard emblems on them, but the pants had a go-to-hell air: checks and plaids of the loudest possible sort, madras plaids, yellow-on-orange windowpane checks, crazy-quilt plaids, giant houndstooth checks, or else they were a solid airmail red or taxi yellow or some other implausible go-to-hell color. They finished that off with loafers and white crew socks or no socks at all."

Perhaps it is because it is the brightest, most noticeable color combination. Perhaps because it's sunny disposition notes it's bearers are bright and relaxed like a tropical island. Or perhaps just because it looks good. No matter what the reason, those two colors are the perfect tones to get you in the mood for Spring (as if months of snow wasn't enough). While some of you might be of the muted styling persuasion, there's no need to fear wearing such bright colors. In fact, if you do it right (that is, like a boss), you look constantly refreshed and cool, like it ain't no thing that it's like 100 degrees out with 90% humidity (still wear an undershirt though). You can take it from me, since I've been wearing stuff like this most of my life, plus, it's a well known fact that women like a manly guy who can wear pink.

As in the picture above, here's the quintessential Spring/Summer wardrobe broken down. It is still too chilly to get away with just a short sleeve so I threw on a sweater until the sun decides to show up. Then of course the next place I throw it is over my shoulders, it adds a nice je ne sais quoi to your outfit, the piece du resistence and all that other French I know. Keep the blazers lightweight in linen or cotton, either half lined or unlined. The polo (next to the OCBD) is the perfect Spring/Summer casual shirt, lightweight and breathable. I personally prefer pique polos to anything else. Time to put away your flannel lined khakis and break out the thinner versions, perhaps woven with some linen for breathability. Roll up your trouser cuffs to let some air circulate and keep you cool. Shorts should hit just above the knee, no cargo pockets, in linen or cotton and in just about any color you can think of. Also time to put away long socks (except lightweight cotton ones for the office), and either roll with the classic sockless look (remember to powder your shoes and feet), or get the no-show sheer socks. Whether you're playing golf or tennis (or beer pong), sailing or kickin it poolside, at the country club or the local pub, you'll look awesomely crisp in a rig like this.

Ready for Spring

2011-03-04T12:25:00.000-08:00

Tie by Liberty of London (USA made, courtesy of The Cable Knit Collegian)

Shirt by J. Crew, Jacket by Brooks Brothers

Every dandy outfit needs some good pattern mixing, and Spring is the really its time to shine. After being stuck wearing heavy coats and incredible amounts of layers, bright colors and patterns begin to show themselves once again. A floral tie is the perfect Spring accessory as it compliments the change in seasons from dry, cold and bare, to humid, warm and lush. It is also the time for the traditional preppy colors of pink and green to make an appearance, be on the lookout for GTH pants a plenty at your local country club. When wearing Spring colors go with a few complimentary bright colors and keep it grounded with some neutral bases as I have done here. Like many of you, this is my favorite time of year and most of my wardrobe is dedicated to the warmer months ahead. Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to go enjoy some sunshine, and maybe some tennis.

Double Breasted Blazers

2011-03-01T10:50:00.000-08:00

Wearing a double breasted blazer is a surefire way to up the class of any outfit, you just have to make sure you do it right. By that I mean 6x2 (6x1 almost never looks good unless you're super slim and the jacket is perfectly tailored), peak lapels, trim through the chest and waist, and long enough to cover your rear quarters (and hover just above the bottom of the rise of the pants) Of course, the latter two also apply to single breasted jackets, but are extra important for their double breasted brethren, as an ill-fitting double breasted jacket makes you look like a cartoonish Hollywood version of a low level mafia member.

I luckily happened to find not one but two double breasted jackets this weekend, both fit near perfectly, and only one will need slight alterations. The ties in this post are from fellow blogger Cable Knit Collegian and his online store. I purchased the J. Crew red sailing repp tie and he was kind enough to throw in a complementary bow tie (since I've been attempting to expand my collection) and another Spring/Summer floral print tie that will appear in a future post.

Double Breasted Jacket by J. Riggings ($7.99) / Purple gingham shirt by Thomas Pink

Vintage Brown Foulard Bow Tie / Pocket Square by Ashear

Chinos by J. Crew / Balmorals by Givenchy

The double breasted blazer mingles well with nearly any style since it's been apart of most major menswear houses the world over. Taking some cues from Brunello Cucinelli, I paired my gray DB with some khaki colored corduroys but then kept it decidedly trad with an OCBD, bow tie and white bucks. It's a deceptively simple outfit, one that I think nicely straddles the line between casual and formal. Just an aside, you'll notice my white bucks are delightfully dirty, I like them that way, which is good because keeping them perfect is nearly impossible unless they never leave your house. This month's GQ held a rare nugget of useful information in an interview with Mark McNairy, to get out most scuffs from suede shoes just rub them together and they come right out. Seriously, it's like a magic eraser, I've tried everything on these shoes and this is the first, and most simple, thing that has actually worked.

Double Breasted Jacket by Stanley Blacker / Shirt by Alex Cannon

Sailing Repp Tie by J. Crew / Pants by H&M / Shoes by Allen Edmonds

I've always wanted a proper 6x2 DB navy jacket with gold buttons. I know they're coming back into designers collections, but it's really been a classic since trad and prep were in their foundational beginnings. Of course, despite how nautically inclined I am, and you might be, it's important from letting it get too ship captain costume-y. I did go with that sailing repp tie though, just because I've wanted a tie with sailboats and nautical flags forever and a day. The lightweight gingham check pants add a bit of fun to the outfit and shows the true versatility of the jacket. The tassel loafers re-up the class and post it square in Ivy/prep territory.

As always, you can definitely have double breasted jackets tailored to fit you better. But as always, make sure the shoulders are a good fit. The body of the jacket is easy enough to alter and the fastening buttons can be moved if they need to be. Also, there are different schools of thought that say different vents are better than others. The gray DB is a single vent and the navy DB is a double vent. A double vented DB should definitely be more tailored than a single or no-vent DB since the sides will naturally want to flare out a bit, as such, the navy jacket does need to be taken in a bit at the waist and hips. If you aren't the thrifting type but like what you see, check eBay for your size, or you can always get one from The Mothership. Also, if you're looking for a primer on wearing double breasted jackets, look no further than a Google image search for Prince Michael of Kent and the Duke of Windsor, they practically own the look.

Let The Rains Begin

2011-02-22T10:28:00.000-08:00

Mackintosh Rain Coat by Kuppenheimer / Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren

Tie by Land's End / Belt is Vintage / Jeans by Levi's / Tie Clip is handmade in England

As Spring slowly approaches, the rainy season nears as well. There's no better time than the present to grab yourself a trim simple mackintosh coat to keep yourself dry when a storm cloud appears out of nowhere right above your head. You can wear it like an everyday coat over your outfit, and it will still look good even if it doesn't rain. Most of them have zip out liners to keep in or zip out depending on the temperature and the weather. While some older gents will tell you your rain coat has to fall below your knees, like the old Apparel Arts imagery, this doesn't always work for everyone. I personally like mine to hit about mid-thigh and I like the sleeves a little shorter to show what's underneath. It's a dandy detail for sure, but like the color of my tie and belt, it's one that happens to brighten my day and keep my mind off the dreary weather. In fact, I wholeheartedly recommend wearing bright colors in foul weather, there's no point in blending in to your surroundings and it's a fun bit of foreshadowing for the summer ahead.

Double Duty

2011-02-18T11:14:00.000-08:00

Shirt and Blazer by Brooks Brothers / Tie by Evan Picone / Jeans by Levi's

Loafers by Footjoy / Briefcase by Johnston & Murphy

If you read about some of the items I post, you'll probably notice I always talk about how versatile certain items are, and how they can be worn for many occasions. Today I get to practice what I preach. Every Friday and Saturday, my girlfriend, in addition to being a stylist, also sings for fun (and profit) with some of our friends at a local campus bar. So every Friday I go straight from work to the bar to help set up. Of course, I could never complain about such a thing since I get to drink $1 mugs of beer and eat $5 plates of ribs. But, of course it also means there's no time for a wardrobe change so I have to bridge the gap with an outfit that is simple yet comfortable enough to pull double duty. The only thing that changes is after work I just trade in my briefcase in for a frosted mug filled to the top with a locally brewed ale, simple as that. Enjoy your weekend!

P.S. This Monday is President's day, meaning there are usually huge sales at your local thrift shop. Go check them out and tell us what you find!

Allen Edmonds Grayson Tassel Loafer

2011-02-15T21:14:00.000-08:00

Allen Edmonds Grayson in Merlot, $30 on eBay

As I've stated before, the tassel loafer is the jack of all trades when it comes to shoes. In between a casual loafer and a dress shoe, the tassel loafer can pull double duty as a shoe for the office and after work or on the weekends. It's also a great year round shoe and works just as well in the winter with socks as it does in the summer without any. As far as where these fit in your rotation, after black oxfords (and maybe brown wingtips), these are the shoes you need to buy. They look just as good with a suit as they do with a pair of shorts (yeah, I know some of you don't agree).

I bought these fine examples on eBay which had just gone through a recent reconditioning, earning new soles, leather reconditioning and a polish (which darkened the shoe and gave it an excellent patina). This marks my fifth pair of Allen Edmonds shoes and I still have nothing but good things to say about them. All of their shoes are made completely here in the USA and the staff is very accessible and friendly, definitely a company worth supporting. I'm completely happy with my purchase (considering they were over 90% off retail) and I look forward to breaking them in over time. They are one of Allen Edmonds most classic shoes, and for those of you who don't thrift or buy on eBay, they are also available here.

Land's End Vintage Linen Blazer

2011-02-12T11:16:00.000-08:00

Blazer: Land's End / Shirt: Polo Ralph Lauren / Tie: Rooster Patched Madras

Pocket Square: Pierre Cardin / Jeans: Levi's 501 / Loafers: Sperry Top Sider

When you live in the desert, you learn to dress well constantly keeping in mind how hot you will be wearing any given item when the temperature is 110 degrees Fahrenheit and 80% humidity. Yeah, if it weren't for school and family, I wouldn't live here either. I've been looking for a good linen blazer for quite some time to wear in the summer with some lightweight chinos or GTH pants. So when fellow blogger Mister Midwester told me he had a Land's End linen blazer he picked up a while back but wasn't fitting him properly I told him of my search and a couple of days later it arrived at my front door. It's a loose nubby weave linen, almost a hopsack of sorts, that is very breathable and light. The light khaki color is perfect for reflecting a good amount of heat while also being incredibly versatile. If you live in a warm climate, this one comes highly recommended.

The Contrast Collar OCBD Polo Shirt

2011-02-10T16:09:00.000-08:00

When you're thrifting you often come across unique items you have never seen anywhere else. Some of them are amazing one-of-a-kind garments, some are atrocious and should be used for kindling. If you're lucky you'll be finding more of the former. Occasionally you get really lucky and find something from a favorite brand you didn't even know existed. I happened to find just one of those things. I'm not sure what Ralph called it, but I'm calling it the contrast collar OCBD polo shirt.

I've never seen anything like it, I don't even know how much I paid for it

because I was going to buy it regardless.

The two main shirting staples of a gentleman's wardrobe were elegantly fused together to create an incredible garment. On it's own, it presents a casual uniqueness to any outfit, sure to have the cognoscenti do a double take when they realize that it's a pique polo with oxford cloth accents. I also rather appreciate the lack of a pony logo on this one which, I think, actually adds to it versatility, and allows it to assume it's own identity in an outfit.

Vintage Belt, Jeans by Levi's, Monk Straps by Mezlan

Note the jeans rolled up to imitate the contrast of the shirt.

As soon as I realized what I had picked off the rack, I wondered how it would look under a blazer or sport coat. When used in this manner it imparts an interesting medium between casual and formal. To the casual observer it would probably appear as though I'm wearing an OCBD under a v-neck sweater, wearing a tie makes it look just like an OCBD. It's a bit like those funky tuxedo shirts that have colors and patterns in the areas you can't see beneath a tuxedo jacket.

Blazer and Twill Cotton Trousers by Polo Ralph Lauren, Loafers by Allen Edmonds

This is something that really should have been retained in their year-round lineup. It also would have been nice to see them with spread collars as well. I wish I could also tell you where to get one, but short of coming across one like I did, I have no idea how to get one. If you really want something similar, your best bet is probably to compromise and get one of the Brooks Brothers long sleeve spread collar polos. They're very similar but don't have the contrast cuffs. Which is odd because this shirt has probably been out longer than Brooks Brothers have been offering their version, it seems as though the Brethren really are starting to follow the Polo empire.

Wish List: Panerai Bronze Luminor Submersible

2011-02-07T13:13:00.000-08:00

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic

I can't remember the last time I saw a watch made out of bronze. In fact, I really don't think I ever have. In any case, I definitely can't remember the last watch I saw that was this cool. It's an amazing blend between vintage military watches (Panerai supplies watches to the Italian military, probably the best dressed armed forces in the world) and a certain steampunk design ethos that really carries this one a long way in my eyes. On a technical level it has a 3 day power reserve (so even if you don't wear it for a day it will still be running), Valjoux 7750-P1 (one of the best movements available), 28,800 vph (meaning 8 "ticks" per second creating a smooth sweeping second hand), 28 jewels (the amount of rotating parts), cushion case, 300m water resistance, sapphire crystals on both the dial and the exhibition case back. At over $10,000 it certainly is an expensive piece of horology, but if you can afford it, you can be certain it will catch the eyes of everyone around you and differentiate you from the hoards of Rolex and Breitling wearers. I would obviously rather use the money as a down payment on a new car, hence why this one remains firmly atop the wish list.

Suit Jacket Alterations

2011-02-04T10:47:00.000-08:00

Drake, of Give Me Indiana, asks:

I have begun searching for suits and sport coats on eBay and thrift stores. My question for you is how specific should I be in measurements, and what measurements are the most important or hardest to alter? I know my measurements, chest, sleeve, etc. and I plan to take the item to a tailor after buying, but I need to know where I can be off on the original measurements as I can never find something that fits perfectly. How close should sleeves be? Is it better to be too long or too short. Is it possible to add or remove inches across the back if the jacket is too tight? Any advice you could give on thrifting or eBay adventures would be appreciated. Thank you.

These are all very good questions, and very important things to know if you are going to buy any jacket. As a rule of thumb it is always better to be long than short, because any measurement that is too short you may or may not have the fabric available to lengthen that part of the jacket. It cost me quite a bit of money to learn that one. You can be long on any measurement by a quarter to half in or so without really affecting the look and fit of the jacket. On ebay you don't always know if the person knows the right place to measure and if they are rounding up or down. I have purchased many suits on ebay that say they are my size only to find out they were way off. I only buy from an ebayer that isn't a large store operation since it's easier and more likely that you can get the person to confirm those measurements for you and give you any extras you might need.

Knowing your exact measurements (even to the quarter inch) are always the best since you have a realistic image of what kind of jacket will fit you. The hardest elements to alter are the shoulders and the length of the jacket, getting these right is imperative.

You can alter the shoulders but it is a very risky and costly procedure that should only be undertaken if absolutely necessary (like if it was your grandfather's jacket and you really want to wear it, etc.). You can be off a little bit here without really affecting the look of the jacket, and it's better to be a little too long (but only by a quarter to half inch) so it doesn't look like your jacket shrank on you.

Same thing on the sleeves, you can be long by a quarter to half inch without affecting the look too much, if you're a stickler for how much shirt cuff you like to show it's much easier to shorten it a bit.

When you say the back is too tight, I'm guessing you are referring to how it fits across your shoulder blades. If the jacket is fully lined, you may be able to feel how much extra fabric is underneath the top of the back, but undoing the lining is the only way to tell for sure (which should only be done by a tailor). It may be possible to let it out a little bit, but there usually isn't too much room for letting out in this area. However, if the shoulder measurements are right, you shouldn't have a problem here.

The length of the overall jacket is also important because most companies are not the same in their S/R/L measurements. I'm a 40XL, but usually a 40L will suffice as well. Know your desired length from the nape of your neck to just under your rear and go by that instead of tagged size. Again, better to be slightly long on the length, unless you like the Thom Browne look. If the jacket is well tailored or just naturally fits well, the extra length will not really show.

Chest is also important, but only to a degree, since jacket darts can be taken in, and the waist can be taken in from the middle of the back to minimize the bulkiness of an ill fitting jacket and give it that nice slimming nipped waist look. Fortunately, getting the chest right is fairly easy. You don't want a skin tight fit, so give yourself an inch or so on top of your real chest measurements to account for shirts, sweaters, etc. This means that when you put on the jacket, fasten the proper button and pull it away from you, it shouldn't separate by more than an inch or two.

When I go thrifting I not only try on the jacket but measure it as well to make sure I'm not just excited to find a really great jacket and trying to convince myself that it fits.

Dan Oliver's Behind the Blog Series

2011-02-03T13:50:00.000-08:00

Dan Oliver recently began a series on his blog which he aptly titled Behind the Blog. It looks behind the scenes of a blog at the bloggers themselves, who they are, what motivates them, and how they have changed over the course of their career. When Dan emailed me inquiring if I would like to participate in the series I told him I would be honored to do so. I'm the second interview in the series after Denis Cahlo of Made to Measure. It was interesting to participate as it is the first time anyone has interviewed me for my work on The Natural Aristocrat. You can read the interview here with yours truly to get the full story of how the blog came to be and find out some things you probably didn't know about me.

Crashing Never Looked So Good

2011-02-02T15:08:00.000-08:00

Knowing I would be hitting the slopes in Park City, undoubtedly one of the premier ski destinations in the US, I began looking into a new new rig for skiing/snowboarding. After doing the research for my recent post highlighting some of the best new gear, here's what I ultimately wound up with.

Jacket and Pants by Obermeyer / Goggles by Scott / Gloves by Dakine

Rented a new Head snowboard, boots and bindings

The Obermeyer jacket and pants are incredible, well worth their cost (although I got mine on ebay). The jacket has multiple pockets for phones, cameras, ipods, etc. It even has the RECCO system which is a passive RFID tag that will help to find you if you get lost or are trapped under snow. It has built in hand warmers and vents to keep you from getting too hot. The pants are the same and have multiple vents and pockets. I also like my new jacket and pants because they're relatively slim for snow gear, which not only allows for more mobility, but is quite refreshing to see among the sea of baggy clothing most snowboarders are wearing. I accidentally brought my leather gloves on the trip instead of my ski gloves, so I picked up some new Dakine gloves for a mere $30, for the price, they are just as good or better than my friend's $100 gloves. They all performed beyond my expectations, keeping the weather and cold out, all while helping to regulate my internal temperature.

As a side note, everyone in my family skis, we're just old school like that. So while I learned to ski when I was 4, I had only snowboarded a handful of times. In fact, it had been over eight years since I had been snowboarding previous to this trip. But I figured since the people going weren't expert at either skiing or snowboarding, I knew that there would be no point skiing since I would be mostly by myself on black diamonds. So I opted to board, and after successively wrecking myself for an hour or so (to the point where I had bashed my head and my wrists were purple), and a handful of aspirin later, I was jamming down the slopes with the best of them. Actually, I was only crashing until I stopped just throwing myself down the mountain and started applying what I knew from skateboarding and surfing. Then it just all seemed to fall into place. I liked it so much I'm currently looking at buying my own board.

Bean Boots on the Edge

2011-02-01T10:09:00.000-08:00

Bean Boots drying in the sun overlooking the Park City Resort.

Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage

2011-01-29T18:28:00.000-08:00

Now, I'm willing to wager a fair amount of people reading this are bourbon fans already. If you are, then you probably know how good this stuff is. However, as a scotch drinker, I rarely venture into the world of southern whiskey. It's not that I don't enjoy bourbon, it's just that I just can't get around how much I like the taste of scotch (especially Laphroaig), and when it comes to what I buy, for the house scotch always wins out.

However, the story about how I came to buy the bottle above began when I arrived in Park City for Sundance I was informed about the famous Utah state liquor laws. For the uninformed, nearly all the beer is limited to 3.2% abv, and you cannot purchase a double. Furthermore, you can only purchase alcohol at state regulated and run stores. I went in expecting to grab a cheap bottle of Dewar's or similar, only to find all the scotches were at least double the normal price. So I ventured on and came to the bourbon section hoping to find a decent deal. I had heard rave reviews of the Evan Williams Single Barrel, and it was priced at a meager $25.

I should tell you that I bought the 2000 vintage, barrel 525. Because apparently the flavor can vary quite wildly from bottle to bottle, strongly exhibiting the unique features of a whisky bottled from a single barrel. While I can't vouch for every bottle, mine just keeps getting better with time. Incredibly mellow for it's price and a great whisky to have on hand when having a couple of drinks with some good friends. I highly recommend this if you get the chance to try it.

Park City Landscapes

2011-01-29T18:07:00.000-08:00