The NonFashionista

Neela Vermeire Trayee: A Mini Review (An Indian Perspective)

2013-05-19T01:48:00.000+10:00

I first read about Neela Vermeire’s perfumes on Now Smell This. I was instantly intrigued by the line because it is supposed to be an olfactory ode to India. Neela is an Indian expat living in Paris and I am an Indian expat living in Melbourne, and the idea of revisiting my childhood in India through Neela’s eyes (or nose) appealed to me instantly. Moreover, the line was created by Bertrand Duchaufour, one of my favourite perfumers. After having a look at her website, I was sure my favourite would be Trayee, an incense fragrance inspired by Hindu traditions and rituals, and I ordered a bottle. Trayee’s notes include blue ginger, elemi, cinnamon, ganja effects, blackcurrant, basil, jasmine, cardamom, clove, saffron, sandalwood, vetiver, incense, sandalwood, patchouli, myrrh, vanilla, cedar, amber, oud and oak moss.

When I think of Indian temples, I am reminded of the smell of smoke from agarbattis, the pungency of crushed flowers, the aroma of burning ghee and the lingering scent of freshly ground sandalwood paste. Trayee combines some of these elements with a lavish dusting of spices on a velvety cushion of vanilla. Trayee is so well-blended that I find it hard to detect where one note ends and the next one begins. When I spray it, I get a sharp blast of spices, and the ones that my skin really projects are cardamom, cloves, saffron and ginger. I can smell these notes in the deep drydown, even after several hours. The sandalwood in Trayee reminds me of Mysore sandalwood soap, wrappers of which my grandmother used to use to scent her clothes. The incense in Trayee is earthy and while it does not really smell like pot, it does have a slight 'ganja effect.'

Usually, I am heavy-handed with fragrances, but Trayee is so potent that one spray is enough to last me several hours. I have never been a fan of dabbing fragrances, but in Trayee’s case, I would actually recommend that. A dab behind each ear and wrist would be enough to last all day long.

While I really enjoy the cerebral elegance of Trayee, the scent that really surprised me from the line was Mohur, a rose-based scent inspired by the Mughal era. Mohur reminds me of the Indian dessert gulab jamun, fried milk dumplings immersed in rose-flavoured sugar syrup. The rose is sweet but sheer enough not to be sticky or cloying. I would love to own a full bottle of Mohur.

As I man, I find it quite easy to wear both Trayee and Mohur. Bombay Bling is a bit too bright for me, and while it could easily be unisex, it is too glamourous for me to wear it everyday.

The Neela Vermeire line is available at www.neelavermeire.com.

Arquiste Perfume Launch at Peony Melbourne

2013-04-14T14:50:00.001+10:00

I don't often attend perfume launches; in fact, I don't think I have ever attended a perfume launch here in Melbourne where the man behind the brand was actually present. Arquiste is a New York-based niche fragrance line founded by the Mexican-born Carlos Huber. I first read about Arquiste when the very hard-to-please Kevin from Now Smell This wrote positive reviews for the brand's Flor y Canto and Anima Dulcis. A few months later, I saw Huber on an editorial in Mr Porter, and I have been seeing his face on blogs and websites since.

The Melbourne launch for Arquiste was at Peony Haute Parfumerie. Peony stocks niche fragrance lines like Lubin and Amouage, and it was my first time there. I'd heard about the launch from Clayton of What Men Should Smell Like, and I was glad I went. Peony Melbourne was exquisitely decorated with white flowers and art deco furniture, and that suited the classic aesthetic of Arquiste perfectly. Arquiste fragrances are olfactory representations of historical moments, and the scents, I soon found out, were very well made modern interpretations of classic scents.

I had a hard time picking out a favourite, and that was partly because Arquiste has a very different style to the scents I usually wear. I prefer quiet, melancholic or meditative scents with a hint of something slightly odd or off-kilter. Arquiste scents are all beautiful in a classic way, and while some of my favourites do include conservative choices like Chanel Sycomore and Amouage Jubilation XVV, they are not as bright and unironic as Arquisite's offerings. The scent that seemed to work well on my skin was the tuberose fragrance Flor y Canto, and Huber himself commented on how different and interesting it smelled on my skin. I was tempted to buy it, but I have to admit that I did not love it as much as my two tuberose favourites, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower and Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. The other two I liked very much were L'Etrog (citron and date) and Fleur De Louis (masterful blend of citrus, florals and woods). I am not sure either of these are full bottle worthy, but I have grown to like many fragrances I did not really care about at the start, so only time will tell.

The best part about the launch was the opportunity to have a casual chat about fragrances with Huber himself. I asked him if he had any favourites from any other line, and he told me his favourite was a cologne you could only buy in Mexico. He said he splashed it on before going to bed and just after waking up. Chanel Sycomore and Tom Ford Champaca Absolute were two other names he mentioned. He said he loved his colognes fresh and aquatic, and when he saw the look of dread on my face when he said the word 'aquatic,' he quickly added that he meant aquatic in a good, non-mainstream way. Also, I was surprised to learn that he read perfume blogs. I was talking about Robin from Now Smell This, and he said that he had never met her, but she was very tough and had dismissed his line when it first came out.

I was sad to leave the launch empty handed, especially because most of the others were taking home pretty black and white boxes personally autographed by Huber. I did not want to make a hasty decision just for an autograph. I spoke to the lovely Jill from Peony just before leaving and she said I could come back in anytime and have a play. I told her I loved iris-based fragrances, and she recommended Heeley's Iris De Nuit. On my way back, I googled the fragrance, and it looks perfectly melancholic and contemplative. I need to go back to Peony soon to test it. I have never tried anything from Heeley, but yes, a lemming is born!

With Carlos Huber at Peony Melbourne

Arquiste Launch at Peony Melbourne

With Clayton from What Men Should Smell Like

Sophisticated or Boring

2013-04-03T14:09:00.000+11:00

It has been such a long time since I last updated this blog. Two years, in fact. My personal style has changed a lot in the last two years, but some things have remained constant. I still love Margiela and Comme des Garcons; I still dismiss people who play it safe and only wear black; and I still don't like glamour without a playful or intellectual twist that makes it fun. What has changed is that I have a new respect for classic, understated elegance. I never used to like safe, timeless looks, but I have started realising it takes a keen eye to look classic yet effortless (without looking dated). And I guess I am growing old because I keep telling myself to keep it clean and simple. I find myself reaching for a sheer silver v-neck sweater or a beige trench coat instead of something that would make more of a statement. I find the same happening to my taste in fragrances. My bottle of Le Labo Oud 27 is still about 80% full after almost two years, but I drain my bottles of Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 and Frederic Malle L'Eau D'Hiver in no time.

In short, my tastes are becoming a) more sophisticated, or b) more boring.

Time for another new wallet?

2011-03-21T20:08:00.000+11:00

I have this bad habit of stuffing my wallet with cards - bank cards, business cards, rewards cards and public transport passes.

I try to empty it every once in a while - and sometimes I get really enthusiastic and throw everything out - everything, except the bare essentials. This seems like a good idea at the time, but I have a hard time afterwards --I realise I don't have my health card when I'm at the doctor's or my rewards card after a splurge at David Jones.

So I have come to the conclusion I should carry all my cards around, even if it makes my wallet look bulky and shapeless.

This decision, I'm starting to realise, has a downside. The card compartments in both my wallets are torn to the point I need a new wallet.

The one I use the most is an embossed LV wallet in black from a couple of years ago. I like it, I don't love it -- but I'm kind of sad it looks so battered and torn.

I am thinking I should buy a sturdier wallet this time. My top picks are both Comme des Garcons, but I am not sure if I should go classy and timeless and select this (Luxury Group series)

Or be funky and young and go for this (Super Fluo)

The Super Fluo is relatively cheaper, but the finish doesn't seem to be as good as the black's. I don't like the greyish edges, but I love the bright colour blocking. It reminds me of the bright colours from Jil Sander's S/S 2011 collection.

Another option is the beige offering from the Luxury Group. Comme des Garcons calls it 'beige' but it looks more caramel than beige to me -- I may be colour blind, who knows!

I find CdG wallets to be sturdier because their card compartments are not punched out -- but sewn together -- unlike LV, Gucci and the like.

All these Comme wallets come in a variety of shapes, but I think the best of the lot is the relatively-new 110mm x 85mm style. The square ones -- probably the most popular style -- are too bulky, at least for me. The half-zip ones, on the other hand, are way too small, in my opinion.

All Comme des Garcons pics via Dover Street Market, Jil Sander pic from here, and Louis Vuitton Epi Leather wallet pic from louisvuitton.com.

Fall 2011: I heart Missoni!

2011-02-03T22:13:00.000+11:00

Now that the menswear shows are all over and I've had time to take it all in, I've been asking myself which my favourite show was. The answer is Missoni. Missoni has never really been my style -- too ethnic, too 70s, too much wool, and I've not followed the label's recent shows.

I have changed my mind after seeing this season's collection.

I love how the label has updated their aesthetic whilst staying true to their roots. The trademark zigzags, smatterings of bold colours and the relaxed fits are all there, but it's sleeker, muted and there is a lightness to even the heaviest of outerwear pieces. Even the quilted vests look so relaxed and effortless. I think the colour palette is amazing, too. I love the red/orange accents -- they really wake outfits up.

All pics from WWW.STYLE.COM

Floods

2011-01-13T18:22:00.000+11:00

Queensland is ravaged by floods. People have lost a lifetime of possessions, and some have lost their lives. It makes you re-evaluate things, wonder how easily things can be destroyed. You spend your life collecting the most exquisite clothes, and a flood could just destroy them all in a day. And leave you with nothing. The only thing we can do in life, I guess, is to enjoy it while it lasts.

If Only!

2011-01-04T21:46:00.000+11:00

Almost a week ago, I received a postcard in the mail. It was from Tres Bien Shop, the Swedish online fashion store. It was really nice to see that the postcard was handwritten. In an age where most retailers bombard you with bulk emails, it was nice to receive a personalised greeting card. Especially one all the way from Switzerland. 

I find Tres Bien quite unique among online fashion stores in the respect that their styling never looks too forced. For some reason, their clothes always look relaxed, like you could actually wear them everyday. Like you could eat or fall in love in them, without feeling too self-conscious about what you are wearing. Maybe it has something to do with their relatively natural-looking, uber-cool models. Or maybe it's just that the clothes are very carefully selected. My housemate has a huge crush on Sune, one of their models.
 
They have a huge sale going on, but I’m too broke to buy anything. The good things are all gone already, but if there is a Santa who operates after Christmas and feels like rewarding me for good behaviour, and if I could just pick just one thing, I’d wish for these Kitsune x Pierre Hardy shoes in a size 41 thank you.

They are still available in almost all sizes, and I think they are one of the most breathtaking shoes I've seen in 2010. In fact, along with the Fred Perry x Liberty polo and the Christopher Kane cardigan I mentioned in my last post, it’s one of my top favourites from 2010 I'd actually like to own.

I really wish I wasn't so broke! 

All images via Tres Bien Shop.

The Year That Was

2010-12-30T13:08:00.000+11:00

Now that the year is coming to an end, I thought I’d just blog about how my personal style has changed over the course of the year (I don’t want to use ‘evolved’ because that would mean I don’t like now how it was at the start of the year). I wish I had pictures to post on here – maybe that should be a new year's resolution: to start taking pictures so I can compare them towards the end of the year. 

Skinny silhouettes and shades of black dominated my style at the start of this year. However, I have to mention that when I wear black, I try to include as many shades of black as I can to make sure my outfits don’t look too ‘flat.’ So it’s always glossy black polyester with slightly-aged denim or flecked charcoal sweaters with silken black dress pants.

Jackson Pollock's Silver on Black, Pantone colour swatches, Martin Margiela Clutch, Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2008

I didn’t realise there were so many shades of black until my friend Shivangi pointed it out last year. We were at David Jones trying to select a scarf, and she was laying them side by side to find the shade of black she wanted. Although they looked almost the same on the racks, next to each other they looked different.

My personal style changed a lot this year after I started working a full-time job. I am not required to wear a suit and tie to work, but I do have to wear dress pants and shoes. I can’t pull off pearlescent herringbone shirts or pleated pants, so I have been experimenting with checks, carrot-fits, cardigans and v-necks.
Mjolk AW 08/09, American Apparel Work Pant, Fred Perry x Liberty, The Son of Man by Rene Magritte, Christopher Kane Men's cardigan

 When I first started working, I wore a lot of conservative shades like blues and whites. Slowly, I started going for more vibrant shades like mustards, greens and purples. Most of the time, I use a more neutral base shade like grey or white to make sure my outfit doesn’t look too loud for the workplace. If my outfit is too conservative, I use small accents like scarves or shoes in a different colour to make it a bit more interesting. 

For nights out, I now wear a lot of American Apparel, especially the acid wash range. I pair it with my Margiela lace-ups (to dress it up) or Common Projects (for a semi-casual look) or old Adidas kicks (when I can’t be bothered to tie the laces and just want to slip my feet into something old and comfy). My jeans are mostly Ksubi or Nudie.

My major style inspiration this year has been Prada. I don’t wear a lot of Prada, but I’ve been reading a lot about Muiccia, and it’s so amazing to look back at her past collections and see how she has been constantly changing while retaining her unique aesthetic. This interview on CNN was an eye-opener.

Chloe Sevigny has been a real inspiration, too. I love how she throws very different styles together and manages to look amazing. I even love her outfits on Big Love. 

My style resolution for the new year would be to put on a bit of weight. I’ve always liked being skinny, but I’m starting to realise I’m on the wrong side of 20, and I should start working out. 

I’ve been going on and on about my year, and now it’s time for you to share your thoughts. Did your style change? What were your major influences? And what do you plan to do differently in the new year?

A.P.C. Resort Collection: Matchy matchy

2010-12-25T21:55:00.000+11:00

A.P.C. is one of my most favourite labels when it comes to well-tailored basics, and I love the way the brand makes quiet statements. I just saw their resort collection (now available online), and the way they have styled it has knocked my socks off. It's a small collection comprising of separates all in almost the same colours. Because the similar colours are not identical and differ in texture, the overall effect is fresh and original. My favourite is the the beige windowpane check shirt/ecru denim/ecru wool cardigan/sandy beige cotton belt combination. I also love the contrasting black derbies.

Search Amazon.com Apparel for a.p.c jeans Search Amazon.com for a.p.c jeans

Paris vs New York Prints

2010-12-24T12:57:00.000+11:00

I am new to the Paris vs New York blog, and I think it's absolutely brilliant. Their prints are funny and clever and chic without trying too hard. They are available for sale, and since I don't have anyone to gift them to me, I might have to buy them myself. I can't decide which one, though! They are all very cute. Here are some of my favourites:

Carrie/Amelie? Cupcake/Macaron? Or Brick/Pierre de Taille? Suggestions?

Gifts and Men

2010-12-22T23:15:00.000+11:00

It's not extremely hard to find Christmas gifts for women, but it's always difficult to find thoughtful gifts for men. I've received way too many shirts and jumpers that I don't like/ don't fit me; so no matter what you do, please don't give your father/brother/son/boyfriend/friend a boxy shirt or jumper from your local department store unless you are absolutely sure that is what they want!

Here are some of my top easy-to-find last-minute picks:

Cardigans in black or grey: Cardigans are versatile enough to be worn with suits or jeans, and they make men look neat and trim. Unlike v-necks, the placket makes the gut look smaller and it conceals the area between the shirt and pants for a cleaner look. I love the Comme des Garcons Play cardigan because it's not too slim nor too billowy: it's just the right kind of fit that will never go out of style. The Play cardigans are fairly pricey, so if the man you are gifting to isn't that special, there are plenty of cheaper (but not as well made) options out there.

2) Fragrance: I wear anything from scents that smell like roses to ones that smell like Russian churches, but it's probably a good idea to go for something classy and wearable (yet edgy) if it's a gift. I really like the new Bang from Marc Jacobs (I dislike the bottle design, though). It smells woody but there is that extra something that makes it smell very urban and contemporary. Also, I love Wonderwood, the new wood fragrance from Comme des Garcons. It's a rich burst of wood, but it melts into the skin and smells absolutely sexy.

3) Moisturiser: Many men complain that moisturisers feel heavy on the skin, and it's a good idea to gift something light and oil-free. I notice that men tend to use the same products over and over again, so it's a good idea to buy something decent you'd want him to buy again. I think Matt Balancing Fluid (image via site) from Ren is a really good option. I'd also recommend Philosophy's Hope in a Bottle and Armani's Fortifying Serum.

4) Penguin Classics Stationery and Mugs: I love geeky-looking things, and I absolutely adore the entire Penguin Classics gift range. My favourites are the coffee mugs (image via site), the notebooks and the cookie tins. It would make a good present if the man is question loves books.

5) Watch: Swatch is a great gift for a man, especially if he's always reaching for his mobile to check the time. The 'New Gent' in 'Petrol Rebel' (picture via website) is arguably one of the best Swatch releases in years. Toywatch is also a good option, if you are after a more substantial watch that's also young and fun.

Fashion Review: Pauw Mannen

2010-12-19T16:06:00.000+11:00

Sometimes I ask myself if there is any label I would not mind wearing every day. And if so, love it enough to want to wear each and every one of its designs.

I tend to mix and match things a lot, and I am not a fan of outfits that make people look like catalogue models. Generally, I like adding elements that don't necessarily match. Like, say, a vintage something if I'm wearing a slick label like Dior Homme. Brown shoes with a black suit. Or, a nerdy jumper with a motorcycle jacket.

This might be difficult, I guess, if it's the same designer from head to toe.

I've been thinking, and my top two so far are Martin Margiela and Marc Jacobs. I love Margiela and there is rarely anything from the house I dislike. Even though Margiela doesn't design for the label anymore, it's one of the few labels that still design clothes that make me smile and make me want to save up (which is something against my nature) to buy them! I don't own even a single item of clothing from Marc Jacobs, but I find his clothes very wearable. Marc Jacobs has good taste, and while his designs are not wildly groundbreaking, there would be a lot of variety because his aesthetic is very organic. I don't think people will even notice I'm wearing the same label everyday if it's Marc Jacobs.

~

As I was browsing the internet today, I came across this Amsterdam-based label called Pauw (Dutch word for peacock, I believe). I'd never heard of it before and there are no online shops selling it, but they seem to do classic yet contemporary menswear better than any other designer I've seen in recent years.

Like Tom Ford, it is the kind of classic that will never really go out of style (personally, I find Pauw more luxurious and it is probably cheaper). Pauw is supposed to be a one-stop label for conservative yet elegant men with the money to spare. It's very old school and rather romantic. I can actually imagine wealthy heterosexual men with no interest in fashion going there season after season for well-crafted suits, shirts and shoes. So, in a way, I can imagine them wearing the same label every day, year after year.

I really like that most of Pauw's clothes are handmade and that there is detailed information on where and how each and every item is made. Some of their descriptions are very intriguing. Their Finamore shirts from San Giorgio a Cremano, the website says, 'are mostly made by women's hands. These softer hands are needed for the soft but firm stitch, characteristic to these dress shirts.'

I don't think I can ever be elegant enough to pull off such ultra-refined clothes, but they do sound like pure luxury indeed!

All Pauw images via Pauw, Martin Margiela exhibition from here.

More bag talk: Filson or Mulberry

2010-12-13T22:44:00.000+11:00

I own a Filson, but if I had loads and loads of money I'd run to the nearest Mulberry store and buy the Mulberry Elkington. I know there are younger and cooler options from Mulberry like the very popular 'Dan,' but I'll have the Elkington thank you very much.

I bought my Filson from Tres Bien Shop, and while I like the design immensely, I really dislike the fact that it is so annoyingly heavy. Filson isn't popular here in Australia, and I had no chance to inspect it before ordering online. It weighs a ton even when empty, and I find it very strange that it was designed originally for hiking, trekking etc. It'd break my back if I went hiking carrying it. I really think Filson should do something about it. It's a shame because it's such a good-looking bag.

Now: more about Elkington, the bag of my dreams. I retails for a whopping 575 pounds, and I think I can only buy it if I sell my kidney or liver or something. Some people remark that it looks like something from a vintage store, but I really like that it's the most perfect of its kind. The leather is strong and supple and it's fully grosgrain lined. And (like the Filson) it only gets better with age.

Elikington is the same bag the British 'it' girl Alexa Chung carried around and made popular once again. Alexa now has a bag named after her, and it's Mulberry's bestseller. It's a girlier version of the Elkington, and I have to say it's really really good. Personally, I still prefer the original, though!

Images: Both Mulberry bag pics via Mulberry.com, Alexa Chung from here.

Marc Jacobs vs. Comme des Garcons. Knockoff or Look-alikes?

2010-12-13T20:32:00.000+11:00

This is Comme des Garcons from a couple of seasons ago.

And now, this is Marc by Marc Jacobs from this season.

Strikingly similar, no?

Coincidence? Or, do you think some junior designer at Marc by Marc Jacobs was inspired by Rei Kuwakabo? I remember reading a Marc Jacobs interview somewhere where he said he doesn't really supervise the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand because he's too busy working on his mainline and Louis Vuitton.

What do you think?

The Marc by Marc Jacobs bag retails for USD 250 at Ssense and the CdG bag used to retail at the same site for USD 350. Both pictures via Ssense.com.

The Best Of: Sulfate/SLS-free skin care picks

2010-12-10T21:53:00.000+11:00

Left to Right: Weleda Salt Toothpaste, Sircuit Liquid Crystal Hair Bath, Dr. Haushcka Cleansing Cream, Lush Dream Wash, A'Kin Orang BlossomBody Wash, Lush Aqua Mirabilis, Dr. Hauschka Clarifying Toner, Kiehl's Blue Eagle Shave Cream

As I mentioned in my last post, I recently discovered going sulfate-free makes a huge difference to my acne-prone skin, and I've been searching for gentler, sulfate-free alternatives ever since. Here are some of my top picks.

Shampoo: Liquid Crystal Sulfate Free Hydrating Hair Bath from Sircuit Cosmeceuticals: The Los Angeles-based company claims it's the most spectacular shampoo on the planet. I haven't used all shampoo brands on the planet and can't attest to their claim, but it's a really good shampoo. It smells a bit like mint-chocolate chip ice cream, and it foams really well for a sulfate-free shampoo. It keeps my hair soft and shiny without weighing it down. At A$37, it's quite expensive, but it's really difficult to find a good quality sulfate-free shampoo, and I'll repurchase it.

Foaming Body Wash: Orange Blossom Body Wash from A'Kin: I've been trying sulfate-free body washes from Ren, Weleda, Burt's Bees, Pure and other similar brands, but none of them work for me as well as this one. A'Kin is a local Australian brand, and their products are very reasonably priced. I think this one retails for around $13 for 225ml, and it is available in a variety of very natural-smelling scents. It lathers nicely, and it is one of the few body washes that I keep buying again and again. It keeps my skin soft, hydrated and acne-free.

SOS Body Wash: Dream Wash from Lush: Dream Wash is a very soothing body 'smoothie' from Lush. It's one of their only sulfate-free body cleansers, and it's packed with skin-calming ingredients like calamine, aloe, chamomile, lavender and tea tree. I really helps back acne, and it's good for rashes, eczema and dermatitis. It doesn't really foam, and I don't really like its chalky texture; but it's really good for the skin and I always keep a pot handy just in case. RRP $25.95 here in Australia.

Body Scrub: Aqua Mirabilis from Lush: I used to use Ren's Guerande Salt Scrub before this, and while I still like it, I think Aqua Mirabilis wins because it's easier to use. Unlike most Lush body butters, Aqua Mirabilis ($15.95) doesn't leave an oily film behind and rinses clean. It's a great choice if you are prone to back acne and want a body scrub that's lighter and non pore-clogging.

Face Cleanser and Toner: Cleansing Cream and Clarifying Toner, both from Dr. Hauschka: I am one of those people that like to try every single brand in the market and end up using cleanser from one brand, toner from another and moisturiser from another. With Dr. Hauschka products, however, I find that it's really important to use the entire line because their products seem to work in harmony with each other. The cleansing cream ($37) is a sweet almond meal-based cleanser that looks like slightly-fermented porridge. It may look a bit like something that wouldn't clean your skin well enough, but it's a really effective cleanser that is suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone skin. I follow it with Clarifying Toner and Normalising Day Oil (Dr. Hauschka believes that like cures like: they believe in the use of oil to 'normailise' oily skin. It sounds like hocus pocus, but it seems to work!).

Toothpaste: Salt Toothpaste from Weleda: Most toothpastes contain sulfates, and toothpastes containing sulfates give me mouth ulcers! Weleda's Salt Toothpaste ($9 approx) is a brown gel containing salt crystals. It's messy and takes a bit of getting used to, but once you get the hang of it, it's a really effective toothpaste. The salt granules gently scrub the teeth and the natural extracts keep your breath fresh.

Shaving Cream: Ultimate Brushless Shave Cream: Blue Eagle from Kiehl's: Most Kiehl's products contain sulfates, but this shave cream ($38) is sulfate-free and very good for everyday use. It doesn't break me out and doesn't leave a film behind unlike some other shave creams. Highly recommend.

Going Sulfate/SLS-free, Dr. Hauschka

2010-12-09T22:18:00.000+11:00

I have severely acne-prone skin, and the only regimen that seemed to work for me was a combination of Eve Lom's cleanser, Acne.org's Benzoyl Peroxide and La Mer's gel-creme. However, last week I noticed that my face was itching and that the itching was getting progressively worse. I began to panic. My skin breaks out if I don't follow the regimen even for a single day, and I didn't want to undo years of hard work by going off it.

I am a skincare junkie, and in my attempt to find a cure for acne I've tried almost every brand in the market. Lately, I've realised avoiding sulfates can make a huge difference. I realised this when I tried Aveda's Rosemary Mint Shampoo after using a sulfate-free shampoo for about a month. I didn't think Aveda's shampoo would contain sulfates because they promote their brand using words like 'natural' and 'organic.' After three days of using the shampoo, I developed huge under-the-skin pimples at the nape of my neck. I checked the ingredients of the shampoo carefully and noticed it had sulfates. I had not noticed it when I bought it because of two reasons: a) the writing is tiny and b) Aveda calls sodium lauryl sulfate 'sodium coco-sulfate.' Essentially, SLS and sodium coco-sulfate are both the same ingredient. Aveda claims that their sodium coco-sulfate is derived from coconuts, but Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is coconut-derived, anyway.

I switched back to my old SLS-free shampoo and I stopped getting the painful bumps. Ever since I've been trying to avoid face/bath/body products that contain sulfates in any of their disguises (Sodium Laureth/Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate etc).

My La Mer/Eve Lom/Acne.org regimen was sulfate free, but something in it was causing the itchiness. I'm pretty sure it was not the La Mer gel creme: it's very gentle and I use it even on burns and rashes. Although Acne.org's benzoyl peroxide seems like the most obvious suspect, I have a feeling it might have been the petrolatum in the Eve Lom cleanser. I'm still not sure, though.

Anyway, I began to look for gentler natural alternatives and thought of the Dr. Hauschka. It's one of the only truly natural brands (I find it very difficult to trust 'natural' claims by brands like Burt's Bees, Aveda and Origins, which are part of bigger, not-necessarily-conscientious companies like Clorox and Estee Lauder), and I had used it a couple of years ago and had reasonable success with their cleanser/toner/day oil combo.

I bought the Dr Hauschka Daily Face Care Kit for Oily Skin ($47 at David Jones; comes in a luxe aluminum box) to sample their products before committing to full-size tubes/bottles. I've been using it for about a week now, and I find it very effective. In fact, my skin looks better than it has in the last ten years. I even bought a full-size Clarifying Toner yesterday when I ran out of it. However, I'm scared to write a positive review and jinx it! Things stop working for me whenever I give them rave reviews! So I'll wait another couple of weeks before I post a detailed review. Until then, stay sulfate-free and let me know if you see a difference.

Katy Perry Firework

2010-12-07T20:17:00.000+11:00

I've never really been a big Katy Perry fan. Her first album was deemed homophobic by the gay media; and although I kept hearing her songs everywhere, I never paid serious attention to her music. The other day one of my friends posted a video of her at the recent Victoria's Secret show and the song just kept playing in my head. I watched the video on Youtube today, and I'm officially a fan of the song! 

She has a really good voice, and some people think she is wasting it on sugary pop. Although I don't like all her songs, I think she's just having fun! I still wish she sings something different every once in a while, though: this cover of Sam Sparro's Black and Gold is amazing!

Big Love & Chloe Sevigny

2010-12-05T01:06:00.000+11:00

I am sure the HBO drama Big Love has a big fan following, but I just started watching it. I didn't think I'd find a story about a polygamous Mormon family interesting, but I'm hooked. I just finished watching the first season, and I can't wait to watch the second.

I'm totally in love with Chloe Sevigny after this. I love her style, but I had no idea she was such a good actress. I've been watching her old interviews on Youtube, and I'm finding her adorable. Also, I grabbed a copy of the current issue of the French magazine Purple, which features her on the cover. There's also a HUGE fashion spread with Chloe wearing pieces from almost every designer under the sun, right from YSL (the cover) to Ann Demeulemeester and Comme des Garcons. I really like that Purple Magazine doesn't rely overly on Prada, unlike similar magazines like Pop and Love. I love Prada, of course, but I don't think it's really hard to put together an outfit if 60% of it is Prada.

There are lots of boobs/vaginas in the magazine (Chloe's included), but hardly any dicks/male butts. Kind of unfair, don't you think? There are a couple of pictures of Mark Ronson with his pants unzipped, but what's the point of that if they don't reveal anything?

On a side note, I kind of like Chloe's Mormon chic in Big Love. It's similar to Chloe's own style, in a way. Especially the kind of fashion she favoured when she was younger. She has repeatedly cited the Australian movie Picnic at Hanging Gardens (schoolgirls in Victorian dresses) as a major style influence, and long Mormon-wear isn't really that different!

Images from here, here and here.

Manish Arora at American Music Awards!

2010-11-23T21:45:00.000+11:00

I don't even know who Nicki Minaj is, but as soon as I saw this picture, I knew this had to be a Manish Arora dress. And it is! I absolutely love Arora's eccentric, three-dimensional designs, and I am so happy to see someone look so happy and comfortable in them! This girl rocks it!

Katy Perry seems be a fan of Arora's, and she has worn his creations more than once.

And here are my favourites.

2010-11-19T21:46:00.000+11:00

My wishlist from the H&M x Lanvin collection

Lanvin for H&M

2010-11-19T20:04:00.000+11:00

Lanvin for H&M revealed!

I love the video!

It's a shame we don't have H&M in Australia! They'll hit Ebay very soon, though. Thank God for Ebay!

I'm in love with the accessories. They are classic Lanvin, and hopefully, not as pricey. I love the shoes, the flower brooch and the bow tie from the men's range. I am a little disappointed there are no sneakers, but these wine(?)-coloured lace-ups are to die for.

Image source: Selecticism

Small things come in big packages

2010-11-19T18:48:00.000+11:00

I had a really dull day at work today. I spent most of it waiting for the day to end, and I was exhausted by the time I got back home. When I got back home and I found this really big package waiting for me in front of the door. It was from American Apparel.

I had ordered a few things online last week. AA had sent me a 25% discount voucher for my birthday. They were the only online retailer to do so, and I thought I'd thank them by getting something (not the most prudent way to shop, but well...). They were already having a 50% sale, and I ended up getting 4 t-shirts and a magazine.

I didn't expect the box to be so big. It turned out to be because of the magazine. It's a back issue of the Madrid-based EY! (short for Electric Youth!). I had heard of the magazine but never seen it, and the AA site was offering a 50% discount on it -- $30 instead of the usual $60. I hesitate to buy even $15 magazines and would never have bought one for $60, but hey! it was my birthday and excesses are allowed on birthdays. And technically, I got it free because I was getting 25% off anyway.

To give you an idea how big the actual magazine is, I've photographed it next to my 100ml bottle of Diptyque Philosykos.

I expected EY! to be similar to the Netherlands-based Butt Magazine, but it's not. Some of Butt's interviews are in-depth and insightful, but EY! is more like a big, in/expensive photo shoot. All the photos are taken by Steven Klein, and the magazine features Argenteens (from Argenteena, as the magazine puts it) from the first to the very last page. There is nothing not to like about ripe Argentinean boys in faux-pornographic poses, but I don't really think it's worth the $60 price tag.

I have to admit I'm not a big fan of Steven Klein, either. His pictures remind of the game called Statues I played as a kid. His subjects always look like they were doing something and Steven said Statue and photographed them in the frozen state. The tense high drama it creates is interesting, but I don't love it. I sometimes find his photos rather sensationalist.

However, some of the pictures in EY! are relatively more relaxed, like the one below:

EY! asks all the models the same inane questions ('What is your favourite Madonna song?' 'Do you use moisturiser?' 'Boxers, briefs or commando?'), and the boys answer with boring platitudes ('Like a Virgin,' 'No, it's for girls,' 'Commando, of course'.

I think the magazine is going to be one of those things in my room that people always skim through, and go: 'What is this?' It's not bad, but I don't think I'll be buying another issue.

I'm very happy with the t-shirts, though. I always see bloggers having 'hauls,' where they open a parcel, examine the contents and rate them. I wanted to do that, but my photography skills are limited. Here is a not-so-great picture of the t-shirts I got:

The ones I like the most are the grey with the florescent stripes and the blue with the sunset-orange shading, but the ones that seem to suit (and fit) me best are the other two.

In case you are wondering what those round things are, they are ear muffs I received with the Hibermate sleep mask I bought online the other day. They can be attached to the sides of the eye mask to block noise out, but I like it better without these add-ons. I've been searching for a good eye mask for months, and although it is not as fancy as Audrey Hepburn's in Breakfast at Tiffany's, it does the job. It doesn't feel hot or uncomfortable and is surprisingly worth the $34.95 I paid for it.

Take care of the luxuries...

2010-11-18T13:32:00.000+11:00

...and the necessities will take care of themselves.'

-Dorothy Parker (a.k.a the wisest woman that ever lived)

Revisiting Little Joe on a Sunday Morning

2010-11-15T10:33:00.000+11:00

Stills from Flesh (1968) by Andy Warhol starring Joe D'Alessandro. I can't think of any movie (except Trash and Heat from the same trilogy) that devotes itself totally to the beauty of its protagonist. Aren't his Levi's 501s (?) just perfect!

Sunset

2010-11-13T14:50:00.000+11:00

I have been asking my housemate Yuxin to take pictures of me for the blog, but he has been very busy lately. The other day, when I got back from work, looking like I had just carried Mount Everest on my shoulders, he asked me if I wanted him to take pictures.

'When?' I asked.

'Now?'

'Now? I look terrible. I'm not even wearing anything nice.'

'We can try, if you like.'

'Okay.'

He took the pictures behind our house. The place used to be a brick factory not so long ago and the chimneys provided an interesting backdrop, I guess. He kept asking me to relax and be natural, but I found it very difficult to act normal after being instructed to do so! In the end, I thought I'd go for the opposite look and go for a deliberately stiff look. Not sure that worked, either! I'm wearing what I was wearing that evening: t-shirt from Threadless.com, cardigan from Mjolk, jeans from Ksubi and boots from John Varvatos. 

All pics: Yuxin Yang