The Noobie Climber

Dosage II - Movie Review

2010-03-17T16:36:00.000-04:00

The second movie in a series of five Big Up Productions brings you Dosage II. From Illinois bouldering to deep water soloing in the Mediterranean this movie has its fair share of ups and downs. Although it is not as random as Dosage I it is definitely not as good as later movies by Big Up including Progression and Dosage IV and V. It features Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Klem Loskot, Ivan Greene and more. Keep on reading for my analysis and crazy good rating system which will blow you away!

(Opinions expressed in this review are not nearly rants or raves they are 100% true.)

Well here it is, Dosage II. I am not sure why I decided to start with this one to review and not a movie like Progression or the first movie in the series but you clicked "read more" so you have to keep reading and you can calm down. The movie starts off in Illinois for a little bouldering session. The problems are not too bad but the guys climbing are pretty annoying and I would suggest just watching this part with the volume on mute; the experience will be much more enjoyable. In any case this part definitely doesn't make the movie unwatchable its just not my favorite, maybe you will like stoners jibber-jabbering about random stuff.

The next part is the reason to watch this movie... Deep water soloing. Wow. This part has Klem Loskot and another crazy European guy climbing in the Mediterranean over water with out ropes or any safety gear. These routes get up to as tall as 60ft. Beautiful yet insane.

Chugging right along the next two parts have Dave Graham and some other guy climbing some boulder problems and sport routes. The boulder problems are definately not for the squemish.; the crazy crimps make it so you hear their nails grinding against the rock the get every bit of friction out of the hold. The sport route is insane. Dave Graham says its "bouldering with a rope on for a really long time."

New York City bouldering is the next part. Its part bouldering and part "bro" doing a photoshoot. The boulder problems aren't that exciting either. But after that is the moment you have all been waiting for; Chris Sharma.

Chris Sharma doing some deep water soloing is the highlight of this movie, even though I am partial to Dave Graham. He climbs like no one else.

In summary, this movie is alright. It is not as good as the later Dosage films or Progression but it is still fun to watch. So if I was going to rate this movie from a 5.5 to a 5.15 i would give it a

5.10
Pros: Deep water soling, Dave Graham, Chirs Sharma
Cons: Annoying people, some boring parts, still isn't as serious as the later Dosage flicks or Progression.
Bottom line: Watch it... It's climbing.

All About Hands - Community Inquery

2010-03-05T23:15:00.000-05:00

So after a three hour session at the gym yesterday the unthinkable happened... my hand fell off. Well a pretty good section of the skin on my pinkie had peeled off, leaving a painful skin flap in its wake; this was the end of my session because chalk wasn't cutting it. If I had some surgical tape I would have just taped it off and sucked it up but I digress.

I have heard of people using tape and superglue to cover damaged skin but I think injury prevention is the way to go and will serve me better in the long run. So I have decided to use men's vasoline face and body lotion as much as possible to see if it helps keep the skin, on my hands, from peeling and becoming even more damaged.

So the question I ask is what do you do to prevent skin injuries on your hands and, in the case the do become damaged, what do you do once they are destroyed from messing with overhangs all day?

Discuss below!

Rock Climbing Resources - Knowing is Half the Battle

2010-03-05T18:32:00.005-05:00

The best way for a noob to gain the technique and skill required to progress in the sport is to climb. But a close second is research. If you apply yourself by joining online communities, reading articles, and watching skilled climbers via web videos then you can use that knowledge on the rock to progress faster. I have found reading articles on techniques to use while climbing, watching videos of professional climbers, and asking questions on forums to be invaluable to my progression; and I feel I am improving faster than my counterparts who just try and muscle their way up the route.

Website Communities
http://www.rockclimbing.com - This website has routes, articles, reviews, a good community, and pretty much anything else you will need.
http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com - Another megasite with pretty much everything you will need to learn as much as you can about the sport.
http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com - A little hard to navigate through but it is "your ultimate rock climbing resource!"
http://www.supertopo.com - This is probably my favorite site for reviews. Its also a pretty good resource for climbing info.

Blogs
http://www.allclimbing.com - Lots of climbing news, videos, and good stuff.
http://climbingnarc.com - Lots of climbing news and interesting things related to the sport.
http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com - Has some good training tips for strength building and injury prevention and is an all around fun blog to read through.
http://www.splitterchoss.com - It has everything. Even some humor. Oh and choss.

Videos
http://www.youtube.com - The best resource to watch the pros climb. Sport, trad, bouldering; this site has it all.
Progression DVD
Dosage I - V DVD series

You can check out my links for other good climbing resources and if you would like me to include your site just shoot me an email or comment.

Types of Climbing - A Brief Description

2010-03-05T05:11:00.001-05:00

Top-roping. Leading, Bouldering. Sport Climbing. All of these terms fly at you pretty fast when your the new guy or gal in the gym, surrounded by more experienced climbers. Knowing the difference between the types of climbing is like knowing the difference between chocolate and vanilla ice cream. Some people like to lead climb and some strictly boulder. So lets briefly explore what all of these terms mean so you can pick your favorite flavor.

Traditional Climbing
In this style, also known as "trad" climbing, the climber places all of the necessary protection (ex. camming devices) in the rock while ascending. This type of climbing requires a great deal of experience and technical knowledge to be done safely. However it is more of a thinkers style because the routes aren't always presented to you on a silver platter.

Top-Rope Climbing
Top-rope climbing is one of the safest forms of climbing. It is where the rope is always anchored above you so if you fall you only fall a foot or two as opposed to ten to fifteen foot falls in lead climbing. This is generally seen in the gym and is a great way to learn the ins and outs of safety while climbing. Advanced climbers can use this type of climbing to focus on technique, strength building or endurance.

Sport Climbing
This type of climbing is sort of like traditional climbing but the protection is already bolted in to the wall. The focus of sport climbing is to perform highly acrobatic, powerful climbs on relatively shot routes. Sport climbing is more accessible to beginners because it does not require all of the gear that trad climbing does. The noobie climber should be aware that the falls in sport climbing can be a lot farther compared to top-rope climbing.

Lead Climbing
Lead climbing is when the "leader" climbs up with the rope hang below hime while the "second" belays and hands out rope underneath. This type of climbing is generally used when more than one "pitch" is involved. The leader climbs up till he reaches the next pitch where he attaches an anchor; the leader belays the second until he reaches the anchor and the leader continues up the route.

Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of climbing in which the climber does not use a harness or rope for protection from falling because the routes are below 25ft in height; a crash pad is often used underneath the climber. Bouldering is an extreme form of climbing in which the climber must combine power with technique and grace to conquer these difficult routes. Routes in bouldering are commonly referred to as "problems." In theory all that is needed to boulder is climbing shoes but chalk is highly recommended.

Solo Climbing
Youtube Dan Osman. Solo climbing or free soloing is the most "pure" form of climbing because it involves no protection should you fall; the only protection is a good set of hands. These climbs are generally done on routes well below the climbers limitations. A new form of free soloing is called deep water soloing in which the climber ascends above a body of water which acts as their protection should they fall.. There are many types of solo climbing but they are all a bad idea. Don't do this. (Strictly my opinion)

Aid Climbing
Aid climbing is a technical style of climbing in which devices are used to make upward progress. This type of climbing is generally employed on big walls (see El Capitan) where free climbing is extremely difficult or impossible. Aid climbing places less emphasis on brute strength and power and more on physical and mental endurance.

These are just a few different styles and types of climbing. Other forms of climbing that have not been discussed are alpine, mountaineering and ice climbing. These styles will be discussed in further detail in future posts.

Rock Climbing - The Beginning (Part One)

2010-03-04T22:29:00.002-05:00

So you want to be a rock climber? Want to be the next Chris Sharma? Daniel Woods? Silvester Stallone? Well calm down because there is a lot to think about before you solo climb "Jumbo Love."

First, find a place to climb. Good resources for this include rockclimbing.com and using the route page to search your area or by using google. If you want to be serious about climbing it is a requirement that you have somewhere to climb at least once a week (in theory you don't have to go once a week but technique is half the battle and practice makes perfect). If you're not serious about this then put on your gym rented Black Diamond BOD, muscle your way up that 5.7 jug route and disregard everything I'm about to say.

As a new climber I would suggest climbing at a gym first to work on your technique and to make sure you even enjoy the activity. Gyms are more forgiving than rock (generally the crag does not have 5in thick padding covering the deck) and they will give you a good idea about your ability and limitations.

Next you will want to find a climbing partner. In my limited experiences it is a necessity that you have a partner that can go with you regularly to your preferred training venue. Not only do they provide motivation and company but you will always have someone who will belay you. Your partner will know your limits, abilities, strengths and you can trust each other with your lives.

After you have found your local stomping grounds and partner, just have fun! If you don't enjoy the sport don't invest in gear or training devices because it only gets more frustrating from here on out (sometimes). Get to know the people around you because they will be your greatest and best resource. Take advice and criticism and apply it to your climbs. And if you decide that this is the lifestyle for you then invest in some gear and keep on climbing.

Future posts will discuss what type of gear to buy and where to buy it, injury prevention, techniques that are noobie friendly and many more topics for the blossoming noob.

I'm New...

2010-03-04T16:09:00.001-05:00

So after watching "Cliffhanger" for the fiftieth time I thought I should give this climbing thing a shot. How hard can it be? All you have to do is grab a big rock and pull yourself up with your arms. So I went with my girlfriend and a few buddies to Climb Kalamazoo in Kalamazoo, Michigan to see what it was all about.

After paying my $12 for a college student day pass, getting all my fancy gear and my 30 minute belay class I was ready to start leading some 5.12's; it looks easy enough. So my buddy set me up on this 5.7 route with huge jugs. I killed it, what's next? A 5.8 with crimps? Bring it. Five feet up the wall I understood how hard climbing really is. After failing I decide it's time for some bouldering, and a half hour after that my forearms were shot and biceps were pumped. Climbing isn't the wall at the state fair or something you do at a birthday party at the local sports complex; it's an entire culture which ranges from a hobby for some and a way of life for others. Whoa... way too serious.

Climbing is something I have never been exposed too living in Michigan AKA the fifth flattest place in the world; Nebraska has to be numero uno. I have no technique, no experience, no knowledge of climbing specific training, however, it is something I am ready to commit to at this point in my life. I have some new gear, new experiences, a lovely climbing partner, and a different perspective on the sport. So as I open up this blog for business I would like to invite everyone to come tell me how much I suck or share their stories and experiences for me because even Chris Sharma sucked at one point. So welcome and stay tuned.

P.S. Chris Sharma probably never sucked.