The Northern Ireland Guide

Mussenden Temple in the Downhill Estate, Co. Londonderry

Gerard McGarry — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 17:08:18 +0000

A view of the impressive Mussenden Temple, which sits at the very edge of the clifftop overlooking the Atlantic.

The Kitchen collapses at Dunluce Castle

Gerard McGarry — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:57:30 +0000

This old picture shows the kitchen of Dunluce Castle collapsing into the sea during a storm. The part of the cliff-face that the kitchen was built on crumbled away, taking the kitchen and several of the staff into the waters below.

Augustus Earle's painting of Dunluce Castle

Gerard McGarry — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:49:15 +0000

A painting of Dunluce Castle by the artist Augustus Earle (c. 1793 – c. 1838). I love how the goats are grazing freely on the hillside and the ships are passing more frequently than they do in the present day!

The full title of the piece may actually be "Dunluce Castle, county of Antrim, Ireland, near the Giant's Causeway".

Stories from the history of Dunluce Castle

Gerard McGarry — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 23:09:39 +0000

The following article about Dunluce Castle was kindly shared by a Northern Ireland Guide reader. If you have any old stories, folklore or otherwise, feel free to share them here.

The gaunt ruins of Dunluce stand in splendid isolation upon a rock rising sheer out of the Atlantic and the Castle has been praised and described by Sir Walter Scott in one of his novels, but under another name. Details as to the actual building of the Castle are lost in the mists of antiquity, but it was in the hands of the English in the fifteenth century, and in 1580 it had passed to the McQuillans. After a chequered career the Castle finally became the property of the McDonnells. Lord Antrim resided here until the rebellion of 1641, but a short while later one of the rooms fell bodily into the sea, carrying nine persons with it and the Castle was abandoned. It has remained a ruin ever since.

Only two of the original fie towers now remain, McQuillan’s Tower and Roe’s Tower, so called after Maive Roe, a banshee or fairy spirit whose wail is still said to be heard during wintry storms. The banshee maintains her apartment scrupulously clean, in readiness for the return of the McQuillans.

This remarkable ruin has been taken over by the Government of Northern Ireland as an “Ancient Monument” and guides are in attendance to explain its legendary and historic associations.

Many tales are told of Dunluce and its former owners, the oldest and most popular that of Maive Roe, McQuillan’s lovely daughter, who was the one joy of his life until the day came when he introduced her to his kinsman Rory Oge, as her future husband. The poor girl stood gazing at both men, transfixed with horror. Then crying, “I cannot, I will not! Oh, do not ask me,” she fled from the room. Unknown to her father she had already plighted her troth to Reginald O’Cahan, the son of his bitterest foe, whose acquaintance she had made not long before when he was a prisoner in the castle. His cultured ways and gentle manner had completely won Maive’s heart. Her father never imagined she had another lover, and was fiercely angry at her reception of Rory Oge; but Rory Oge saw deeper, and suspected a rival. By means of spies he soon discovered that Maive and O’Cahan frequently met under the “Wishing Arch.” He reported this to her father, who, in frenzied rage seized Maive and locked her in a room in the Tower, telling her she would remain a prisoner there till she agreed to wed Rory Oge. “Prison, even death, would be preferable to that.” she replied. No one was allowed to hold conversation with her, and, much as they loved their young mistress the servants dared not disobey their fierce master. At the end of the week, McQuillan came in to see if she had changed her mind, and was delighted to find her sewing a white garment. “Ah!” said he, “your bridal robe?” “My shroud!” she replied. Twice more the same scene occurred. At the third visit, losing all patience, he seized a broom and threw it at her saying, “sweep your own rooms, then, if you prefer that to becoming an honoured lady, no longer shall servants attend you.”

That night as she lay awake, weeping bitterly, she thought she heard the sound of someone in the corner sweeping and singing the following words in a crooning voice:

Sweet lady sleep
And do not weep
For Reginald’s good fairy
Will ply the broom
And clean the room
So that dust or soil
Of menial toil
Shall never stain the hand
Of the fairest in the land
The lovely Lady Maive

The thought of Reginald’s fairy soothed her, and she fell asleep. This happened every night till McQuillan’s next visit. He, finding the room so clean, thought all was well, and exclaimed: “So the bridal robe is ready!” “Yes,” she replied, “my shroud is ready.” The words sank into his heart with a deep foreboding. He loved her, and was miserable at seeing her sad. He set himself to devise some plan by which she and O’Cahan could meet and escape without hurting his dignity or offending his kinsman. WOrd was to be got to Reginald that on a certain evening the Chieftan would be away, and Maive’s door would be unlocked. She knew nothing of this, and was that day particularly wretched. Towards evening she dressed herself in her white garment and stood at the window staring out. Suddenly, to her terror, she saw her father and his men leaving the Castle as for one of the bloody raids which were all too frequent. Surely, this time it was to kill her Reginald. Just then she heard her door open, and a low voice say: “Follow me, O’Cahan awaits you in the cave below.” No second invitation was needed. She followed, and found Reginald with a boat. They got in and pushed off intending to make for Portrush.

The night was dark, a storm was gathering fast, and progress was difficult. Meanwhile McQuillan had returned to see if his plan had prospered. From the Castle wall he watched the boat struggling in the raging sea, and he could discern Maive in her white garment. Her words recurred to his memory. “The shroud! The shroud!” he cried, and dashing down to the shore he ordered his own boat to the rescue and offered half his goods to those who would save Maive. But all was in vain; human power was of no avail in such a sea and the last he saw of Maive was after the boat overturned and Reginald was trying to swim ashore with her at the White Rocks. Next morning Reginald’s body was found on the shore, but Maive was never seen again. The fairy, however, still sweeps her room.

At a later date, 1635, after the Castle had passed to the MacDonnells, Randal MacDonnell, 1st Earl of Antrim, married the Duchess of Buckingham (widow of George Villiers, the Duke who was assassinated), and brought his bride over to Dunluce Castle where they lived till 1641. It was during this lady’s time that part of the Castle fell into the sea. One December evening while she was entertaining a large party of the neighbouring nobility and gentry, a strange rumbling sound was heard from the north side. All rushed out to see what it meant, and to their horror found that a large portion of the kitchen, with nine servants, the dinner, valuable plate, etc., had fallen into the sea. A tinker, who was sitting in one of the windows mending a kettle alone escaped. “The Tinker’s Window” is still shown to tourists.

Under the cliffs is a hugh cave, by means of which the Castle was often provisioned in times of siege. The “Gallows Hill”, where rough-and-ready justice was administered by the Chieftain, stands close by.

Gradually, after this the place fell into disuse and decay.

Now on its ruins slender sea-pinks bloom,
And there, when night hangs down her veil of gloom,
The lonely bird of ocean finds its rest
Hushed by the stormy billows of the west
That moan beneath its dark basaltic walls,
While rushing whirlwinds sweep its roofless halls.

Dunseverick Castle

Gerard McGarry — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:19:09 +0000

All that remains of Dunseverick Castle is a small and unimpressive wall on top of a precipice that faces the ocean. You would never guess that a distinguished castle once stood on that spot and that the area was popular enough to attract a number of visits from Saint Patrick himself.

As a matter of fact, the wall that remains is the only part of the castle not destroyed by General Munro during the Irish rebellion of 1641. According to one source, the thick wall was the only part of the castle Munro's troops weren't able to demolish. I guess they weren't thinking of future tourism potential...

A Key Site in Ancient Ireland

On the history and origin of the name Dunseverick, NorthAntrim.com says:

Dunseverick was a key ancient site in Ireland, one of the royal roads from Tara, seat of the Kings of Ireland ended here. It was originally founded by Sobairce, one of the Kings of Ireland who built a fortress here in 1525BC to rule the ancient Kingdom of Dariada, the location is named after him - Dunsobairce (Fortress of Sobairce) now Dunseverick.

Features of Dunseverick Castle

On the north side of the promontory, close to the cliff edge, a well was said to exist. It was named Tubber Phadrick, which means Saint Patrick's Well. The local people would bring their children to be baptised by Patrick on his visits to the area and he would baptise them here while seated on a rock that is now said to be somewhere on the ocean floor.

There's a lot of variance as to which part of the castle actually remains today. Some say it is part of a tower, others a gatehouse and others still say it's one of the original castle walls.

It's been said that a residential tower existed on the site until it eventually collapsed into the sea in 1978.

Selected Timeline

This is by no means a complete historical timeline, but an attempt to present the events we know about in chronological order. If you've got more information to share about the history of Dunseverick, please share it in the comments.

Note - I can't find a date for the establishment of a castle here.
870AD - The castle is stormed - for the first time ever - according to records.
1000AD to 1320AD - The castle is in the possession of the Ó Catháin family.
Mid-1500's - until this point, the castle is in the possession of the MacQuillians, but a joint effort by the MacDonnells and Ó Catháins returns it to the Ó Catháin clan.
1657 - Abandoned by Giolla Dubh Ó Catháin. The family adopt an Anglicised version of their surname several years later.
1662 - The castle is destroyed by the troops of General Robert Munro (the scourge of the future Northern Irish Tourist Board) in their attempt to quell the Irish Rebellion. Munro is generally believed to be responsible for the demolishion of a number of castles around the North Antrim coast, including Kenbane Castle.
1962 - The castle and surrounding land are given over to the National Trust by Jack McCurdy, a local farmer.
1978 - The last remaining tower on the site collapses into the sea, leaving just a wall as the only trace of Dunseverick Castle.

The Guide To Dunluce Castle

Gerard McGarry — Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:24:12 +0000

The ruins of Dunluce Castle have sat on the edge of the North Antrim cliffs for centuries, providing one of the iconic images of Northern Ireland. In fact, Dunluce Castle is one of the essential stops in any proper tour of the North Coast, alongside the Giant's Causeway and Carrick A Rede rope bridge.

It's widely believed that even before a castle existed on this site that it was some kind of pre-Christian fort.

In estate-agent parlance, Dunluce Castle is a prime location for any aspiring warlord, and had many high-profile occupants over the years. From being founded by de Burgh to being owned by the MacQuillan clan, Dunluce was an immensely popular strategic location. It's best known, however for its long association with the MacDonnell clan, particularly Sorley Boy and his son Randal.

The Mermaid's Cave

At the foot of Dunluce's cliff, there is a sea cave which cuts entirely through the rock to the land. Being accessible by sea and land, it made an excellent for anyone landing (or indeed fleeing) the castle.

The Kitchen Incident

In 1639, following a storm, part of the castle kitchen fell into the sea due to the cliff eroding. The disaster must have happened suddenly and without warning, because seven of the kitchen staff were plunged to their deaths as well.

Important Dates in Dunluce's History

I've tried to summarize the major events in the history of the castle, but the MacDonnell family history and their allegiances to the Scottish and English monarchs are intricate at best.

If you have any more information about the history of the castle, please do get in touch with me and I'll make the necessary corrections.

13th Century - It's thought that Richard de Burgh built the first castle at Dunluce.
1513 - Documented as belonging to the MacQuillan family.
1584 - The castle was besieged by Sir John Perrott on the instructions of Queen Elizabeth. Sorley Boy regains control of the castle when a comrade inside the building hauls McDonnell's men up the cliff face in a basket.
1588 - The Girona, a ship belonging to the Spanish Armada, is wrecked in the waters near the castle. According to reports, Sorley Boy assisted the survivors, but sold much of what was salvaged to pay for improvements to the castle.
1620 - Randal MacDonnell made Earl Of Antrim by the English King James I.
1639 - During a storm, a section of the cliff fell away, taking with it the castle kitchens and seven of the kitchen staff. Apparently one kitchen hand survived by cowering in a corner.
1641 - Rebellion sees an Irish army besiege the castle, however it held out under command of a Captain Digby before the Earl returned to relieve them.
1690 - The Battle Of The Boyne leads to the impoverishment of the MacDonnells and they abandon the castle, taking nearby Ballymagarry House as their residence. (This was later destroyed by fire in 1745).
1928 - The castle became property of the Environment & Heritage Service who continue to maintain it.

For more information on Dunluce, you should read this essay on Robert Starrs' site.

Visiting Dunluce

The visitor to Dunluce Castle today can wander around the ruins at their leisure, including the mermaid's cave and underneath the massive arch that links the castle to the mainland.

The site is maintained by the Environment and Heritage Service and they can organise guided tours for you. There's a visitor centre and shop for more information and souvenirs as well as accessible toilets and a picnic area.

For more details on opening times and admission prices, please visit the EHSNI website.

All About Belfast Castle

Gerard McGarry — Sat, 15 Sep 2007 12:26:03 +0000

Belfast Castle is one of the city's hidden gems. Situated off the Antrim Road, it may not be the most central of Belfast attractions, but it's well worth the visit.

Not only can you have a leisurely dander around the castle gardens, but there are plenty of walks in the nearby Cave Hill Country Park, including an adventure playground for the children.

The castle itself is an elegant sandstone construction, built in the Scottish Baronial style by the architects Lanyon, Lynn and Lanyon - the principal work was done by the junior partner in that firm, John Lanyon (son of Charles Lanyon). The many turrets and the elaborate stone staircase at the rear of the building make it worth the visit.

The Original Belfast Castle

The original Belfast Castle was located in the present day city centre, as far back as the 12th Century. The city gives clues as to the location in street names such as Castle Place and Castle Street. The Norman-era castle was superseded by a new stone and timber castle on the same spot in 1611.

However, this was burned down in 1708. The Chichesters became absentee landlords in England

but came to live at Ormeau at the beginning of the nineteenth century. After re-marrying in 1862, the 3rd Marquis of Donegall, decided to build a new residence within the deer park on the slopes of Cave Hill.

Chichester, Shaftesbury and the Current Castle

The current castle was eventually completed in 1870, going over budget and taking most of the Donegall/Chichester family fortune to complete. In order to finish the construction, the Marquis' son-in-law, Lord Ashley paid for the remainder of the works. Ashley and his wife eventually inherited the Shaftesbury title and Belfast Castle.

We attended a tour of the castle a couple of weeks ago and enjoyed a history of the castle and its relevance in Belfast society. The families who inhabited the castle, Chichester/Donegall and Shaftesbury have made their stamp all over Belfast - their names continuing on many of the major street names: Chichester Street, Donegall Place, Shaftesbury Square and many more.

In fact, take a tour of Belfast City Hall and see how many members of the same family served as Lord Mayor over the years. Their influence on Belfast has been profound.

Belfast Castle Today

The Shaftesbury family passed the castle and grounds to the City of Belfast in 1934 and it is now looked after by Belfast City Council. The castle is well known for catering to wedding receptions and for its restaurant. The beautiful surroundings and close by walks make it an ideal place to spend an afternoon exploring.

For more information about Belfast Castle, please check out the official website. Also, we've got pictures of Belfast Castle in our gallery.

A Look Into The Grounds At Belfast Castle

Gerard McGarry — Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:47:23 +0000

Looking down from the car park at the castle, you get a very good view of the gardens below, and the view of Belfast Lough further away in the distance. It's easy to see why such a prominent family would have chosen to live so high up and get majestic views on the emerging city.

Of course, others might claim that it was to look down upon the rest of the populace....

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Ballintoy, County Antrim

Lisa McGarry — Sun, 02 Sep 2007 12:14:17 +0000

Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge is one of Northern Ireland's most loved tourist attractions. The name translates to 'Rock In The Road', the rock being Carrick-A-Rede island and the road being the route by which the salmon migrate back to their native waters.

Not for those scared of heights, the swinging bridge spans a chasm of rocks, 30m-deep and 20m-wide chasm and was originally erected by salmon fishermen during the spring and summer months. The original bridge had only a single hand rail, and widely spaced slats, and although there have been no recorded incidents of anyone being injured during a fall from the bridge, many people have been unable to make the crossing back and have had to be taken off the island by boat.

The bridge has thankfully been updated and improved upon, and in 2000 The National Trust installed a new caged structure as a further safety measure.

Even those who are of a nervous disposition, (myself included) will agree that a trip across the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge is well worth the effort. The views of Rathlin and the Scottish islands are breathtaking. And to lie on top of the small hilly island, looking out to sea, on a sunny summers day is an experience not be missed.

Carrick -A- Rede Rope Bridge is located on the famous North Antrim Coast road between Ballycastle and Balintoy. It is only nine miles away from the Giants Causeway and around ten miles from Dunluce Castle.

Walking Tours Of Rathlin Island

Gerard McGarry — Wed, 18 Jul 2007 15:49:09 +0000

I got an email recently from Paul Quinn, a local from the Ballycastle area who runs regular tours of Rathlin Island for individuals and groups.

We went across to Rathlin a couple of months ago with the family, and I really wish I'd known about Paul back then. He'd probably have advised us to attempt a walking trip without the children!

His email reminded me that Rathlin is Northern Ireland's only inhabited island, and sent me some information about the types of walk he undertakes:

A selection of walks is available, ranging in duration and distance. The shortest option is around the central area of the island. Lasting about an hour, there is time to hear about some of the buildings and sites along the way. Or what about a visit to the nature trails at Ballyconaghan? This would involve one and a half to two hours, including time on pasture/heathland tracks. Another possibility is a walk to Rue Point where, in season, breeding ducks and gulls may be viewed together with the resident seals. Other routes are also available: just ask!

Paul has been visiting Rathlin for over 30 years, and is an enthusiastic birdwatcher (an activity the island is renowned for). He's got a great knowledge of the history of the island and regularly takes groups of up to 40 people for tours.

Contacting Paul

If you'd like to arrange a tour with Paul, you can contact him on 028 7032 7960 or 0774 5566 924 or visit his website. I may arrange a weekend tour myself over the summer, so I'll let you know how it went!

See some more pictures of Rathlin Island as taken by Alison McFaul..