The Ranker

The Bay Area Bucket List: Simply the best things to do in and around San Francisco

2010-10-24T12:11:00.000-07:00

My friends often call me a de facto representative of the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce, since I'm always such an advocate for the city and its surroundings. A common refrain from me is that it's "just a better life" out here -- with our amazing culinary culture, our proximity to so many incredible places from mountains to beaches and everything in between, our big city benefits yet small city feel, and our unique ability to welcome diversity of people, thought (not sure about this one anymore -- we may be closed-minded about being open-minded, but that's not the topic for this blog entry), culture, etc.

In writing this Bucket List, I recognize that one of the very things that I appreciate most about the Bay Area is that you can truly stumble upon a magical new place or sensory discovery at almost any moment. However, a "bucket list" is a list of activities or experiences you want to ensure you've had before you die. I audaciously claim that you have not sufficiently enjoyed this place as a resident nor have you really seen what the Bay Area has to offer as a tourist if you've missed any of the following wonders:

In "The City"

Ferry Plaza Farmers Market -- Go early on a Saturday morning if you can, in order to have access to the best bounty from the local area farmers. Try to find dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes from Dirty Girl Produce, figs of many varieties at Knoll Farms, lettuces from Star Route Farm, goat cheese made fresh that morning from Bodega Goat Cheese. Any day of the week, you can and should enjoy a cheese sampling at Cowgirl Creamery, a fresh marshmallow from Michael Recchiuti Confections, an apricot or plum or cherry tart from Frog Hollow Farms, the biggest mushroom selection I've ever seen at Far West Fungi, olive oils from Stonehouse, coffee from Blue Bottle Coffee Co, oysters and amazing grilled cheese at Hog Island, great Vietnamese food at Slanted Door or Out the Door, one of the best value meals anywhere at Il Cane Rosso, and an incredible Ahi burger at Gott's Roadside.
Seeing the San Francisco Ballet or listening to the San Francisco Symphony in the Stern Grove wooded amphitheater -- I'm not sure there's a better setting for music or the arts anywhere. If there is one, it needs to be on my life's Bucket List.
A Giants game at AT&T Park -- Arguably the most aesthetically impressive stadium in professional sports, it's a downtown park with views of the Bay and absolutely not a single bad seat.
Walking Land's End trail -- At and around the very tip of the San Francisco Peninsula with gorgeous views through the Golden Gate and across the mouth of the Bay to the Marin Headlands
"First Tuesdays" at SF MOMA -- The first Tuesday of every month, you can get into SF MOMA for free. It's usually a bit crowded, but it's also usually well worth the visit and the wait.
Sailing on the Bay -- Find a way to get on the water, move without a motor, and see the city from a completely different angle.
Bay to Breakers -- I'm not sure there's more of a signature event for the city than this, and it's always one of the best weekends of the year to be in town.
Golden Gate Park and all its splendors -- The park has so many things to offer, it's definitely undervalued by many. Check out the rose garden, the North American Bison, and the all-white-wearing lawn bowlers.Or just grab a book, find a tree and read.
San Francisco's best takes on Italian Food -- Delfina and Dopo (in Oakland)
Running through the Presidio -- Find a trail and go.
The best and most unique Cafes -- Grab the best bread you can get, some baked goodies, or a sandwich at Tartine and grab a coffee from the Japanese siphon bar at Blue Bottle Coffee

Outside "The City"

An oyster picnic at Hog Island in Marshall (Point Reyes) -- Bring your own oyster shucking knife, and be sure to enjoy some Kumamotos and Sweetwaters (I prefer the extra small variety, but they'll give you several size choices).
Weekend trip to Tahoe -- In sun or snow, Lake Tahoe is a destination for outdoor fun. North shore, for sure.
A day in Healdsburg -- Perhaps the "cutest" town in California about 1 hour North of The City, you can eat well, shop the square, and enjoy local Russian River Valley wineries without the hype and touristy madness of its sister valley over the hill, Napa. Make a picnic for yourself from Oakville Grocery, enjoy a burger at Healdsburg Bar and Grill, or step it up a notch (or three) and dine at Cyrus. Favorite wineries nearby: Dutton-Goldfield, Williams-Selyem, Gary Farrell, Copain and Rochioli.
Eating in Yountville -- Tuna tartare and fish tacos at the Bar at Redd; cream of tomato soup en croute at Bistro Jeanty; fried chicken at Ad Hoc; oysters and croque madame late-night at Bouchon
Hiking Mount Tamalpais -- Through the trees, across the streams and down to Stinson Beach from the Pan Toll station, you can take a zillion different routes; they're all worthwhile. Do it in the sun, and also, do it in the fog and in the rain. They're each distinct experiences that bring such different colors, sounds and smells. Just be prepared for the weather, and enjoy!
A summer concert, at sunset, at the Greek Theater in Berkeley -- You'll have the incredible backdrop of a colorful sunset over the Bay while enjoying the tunes.
A visit to Chez Panisse -- This is what started it all (whether it's San Francisco's foodie culture, or California Cuisine, or being a "locavore", or enjoying sustainable or organic farming processes). Go see for yourself what Alice Waters did to revolutionize food.
Whitewater river rafting on the Tuolomne River -- You can do one day or an overnight trip. While there are loads of terrific river rafting experiences available in California, this one tops the rest with exciting adventure combined with over-the-top natural beauty and seclusion.
Touring Steinbeck country in Salinas and Monterey -- While you're at it, check out the 17-mile drive in Pebble Beach, but focus on some of Steinbeck's old haunts and landscapes.
An overnight trip to Mendocino -- Great coastal village with local farms, beautiful walks along the sea, and a real old-time California feel.
A beer on the lawn at The Pelican Inn -- Preferably after a hike along the coast to Muir Beach on a sunny day, go inside to this traditional English pub and have them do a real "pull" of a draught English stout or ale, then bring it outside and sit down on the front lawn with friends and enjoy.
Views, vines and vino in Rutherford and Calistoga -- Favorite wineries for both good settings and great tastings include Quintessa, Joseph Phelps, and Ridge.

Do you love one of our great museums, have a favorite overlook in Half Moon Bay, enjoy going to the Chabot Center, swear by a particular yoga class, or eagerly await some annual event every year? Surely, I've missed some experiences that I may have forgotten or should be added to my own personal Bay Area Bucket List, so please nominate your favorites!

Ten Best Expense Account Restaurants in San Francisco

2010-10-08T15:36:00.000-07:00

Normally, my blogs rank the best places to eat per dollar and thus are skewed towards more casual options. Those are still my first choices, because I skew towards more casual options as a rule, and quite frankly, value matters to me. But when money's no object, you've got a visitor or special occasion to celebrate, or someone else is footing the bill, here are the ten best places in the San Francisco Bay Area (noted in parentheses if not in the city of San Francisco) to dine out:

Gary Danko -- It's not news to anyone to suggest it on the top of any list, but Gary Danko is the site of many a perfect meal, and the three course tasting menu is actually a pretty good deal.
Ritz Carlton Dining Room -- Ron Siegel is San Francisco's most artistic chef. Do the Chef's Tasting Menu to see the full spectrum of talent on display, assuming you have the time (and you should try to make time for it).
Boulevard -- Nancy Oakes is still making some of San Francisco's finest cuisine. You can never, ever go wrong eating at Boulevard.
Delfina -- Craig and Annie Stoll are the envy of chefs everywhere for how they can make simple food taste this good, day after day, at a price even other chefs can afford. You want to see where famous chefs dine in San Francisco, this is is usually the first choice, and you will know why when you visit.
Chez Panisse (Berkeley) -- Alice Waters is still in the kitchen here, and if you know anything about food, you must know about her. This is the origin of California Cuisine, and they're still teaching people about how to eat fresh, locally, sustainably, and beautifully.
Redd (Yountville) -- One of those places where I prefer both the atmosphere and the menu at the bar -- which is at or near the top of my overall list -- the restaurant itself has more than its share of merit for your, or someone else's, wallet. They simply do everything perfectly; the food is a great reflection of the bounty of the environs.
Dopo (Oakland) -- Always one of my top ten on my overall rankings because it's just the best value around, the menu is the perfect size and so is the restaurant, and the staff is as welcoming as you'll find anywhere. It's still "the neighborhood restaurant every neighborhood wishes it had" but this is a place to go regardless of your budget because you can't do better for an authentic, fresh, Italian meal made with love.
Harris' -- The best place for beef in SF, period. Their dry-aged beef and old-school steakhouse charm will please anyone looking for a great steak dinner. I'd put this place up there with the best of New York and Chicago any day.
Zuni Cafe -- You'll hear this place described as the "quintessential San Francisco restaurant" and that characterization is well-deserved. Judy Rodgers is still going strong. Have the roast chicken and enjoy that amazing bread salad.
Spruce -- If you're on your own dime or want a more casual option, enjoy the burger in the bar area, not to mention their fantastic cocktails. But when you want to step it up a notch, eat at the restaurant and enjoy one of the finest dining experiences you can have anywhere.

Still good, and reasonable back-ups if you can't get a table at one of the above, here are the "close but no cigar," "not-quite-top-ten-worthy" restaurants for this expense account category:

Some that I haven't yet had the opportunity to sufficiently evaluate but are likely to compete for a spot on one of the above lists include Tyler Florence's new opening, Wayfare Tavern, Melissa Perello's Frances, ex-French Laundry chef Corey Lee's Benu, and Nancy Oakes' Prospect. I will update this entry as soon as I've been to each of these a few times and can comment with sufficient experience.

Notably missing from this list are French Laundry and Cyrus, the two places most critics would say compete for best restaurant on the planet, forget the Bay Area. They're just so pricey, I can't recommend them to anyone. You can't ask a company to pay for this nor a friend. However, if you're a foodie, they're experiences you simply must have at some point in your life, so plan it as an event, and don't ever even think about the bill.

And just in case you've read the Michelin guide, are an avid Zagat fan, or received advice from an unqualified foodie, let me give you a list of places NOT to go that often pop up in these other recommendation venues:

A16 -- I don't get it. People cram into this place, but they can't serve a pizza without a soggy middle to save their lives, and no Italian restaurant should screw up pizzas. If you want to stay within their family, go to sister restaurant SPQR; the pastas there are great, the atmosphere a little more toned-down, and the emphasis on doing a few things really nicely serves them well.
Bouchon -- Unless you're just going for oysters or for a late night snack (as there are no other options in Napa), this place will disappoint you.
Michael Mina -- I don't care whose expense account you're on, this place is just way too pricey. It's good, but it isn't that good.
RN74 -- Sorry, Michael, but maybe you're spread too thinly. This place has a great vibe, terrific service and a fantastic menu, but the execution on the actual food has fallen short every single time.
Bottega Restaurante -- Some of the stuff on the menu here really does go above and beyond expectations in a good way, but it's just not sufficiently consistent across the menu or across visits to be worthy of its price or a recommendation.
La Folie -- Are you kidding me? Do you want uber-over-sauced food, a stuffy atmosphere, and a ridiculous bill? OK, if that's what you're hoping to find, go for it.
Commis -- On most folks' best new restaurants lists all over the world, I don't share the enthusiasm. While I love the menu and the creativity, I can't endorse the end result. And I think the atmosphere feels sterile and just a little strange.

San Francisco Bay Area's Ten Best Restaurants - 2010 Edition

2010-03-07T13:17:00.000-08:00

Again, it's time to update the Top Ten list for the SF Bay Area restaurant scene. As always, I do not claim to have eaten everywhere possible, nor to even have a totally open mind. I know and love food, so here's my take on the best places to eat in the Bay Area. Again, the defining criterion is food quality per dollar, but I also incorporate qualities like service, atmosphere, ingredients, lack of overcomplication or over-gourmet-izing, etc. I'm a Californian, and I like "California Cuisine" -- fresh, local ingredients you don't spoil with too much effort, fat or sauce, you don't mix with other things that might sound good or trendy but just simply don't match, and you don't overpower with unnecessary complication. In short, I ask a restaurant to give me what nature gives it, just to make it harmonize in a way that most people can't.

At the end of the day, I tried to compile the list with the following new decision rule: I'm going out tonight, and I can eat anywhere - where do I want to go?

Some interesting results, including some major moves (down more than up), and some new leaders. Zuni drops out of the top ten, primarily because of some inconsistency I've experience recently, although I still love the place and it's still the "quintessential San Francisco restaurant" with great oysters and ambience. Zushi Puzzle drops way down from #3 to #10, also because of inconsistency, and both Hog Island and Pizzeria Delfina dropped out of the top ten in order to make room for some new leaders. There are also some notable new "honorable mentions" and they're listed with some "bests" in terms of cuisine.

As always, comments and controversy welcome and encouraged.

Dopo (2) Oakland -- It gets better and better, and the wonderful people and service stay just as good. I have had the opportunity to enjoy lunches there more this year, and I'm grateful for it. Their paninis are amazing. For dinner, the lasagne remains the best I've ever had, the pesce crudos are melt-in-your-mouth good with tons of flavor and complexity, and Jon's salumi platters are second-to-none. I also contend the pizza there is as good as anywhere, and certainly better than any place that isn't explicitly a pizzeria. Plus, Jon, Kayta, David, Pete and the whole crew there are just so great - everyone's family.
Delfina (NR) SF - Mission -- Delfina defines the San Francisco restaurant scene for me. It so perfectly illustrates precisely why this is, bar none, the best eating city in the world -- if you, like I, use the criterion of food quality per dollar. One story tells it all with this place. I was taking a cooking class from famous chef Ron Siegel (now at Ritz Carlton, first non-Japanese to win a unanimous decision over the Japanese in the original Iron Chef), and someone asked what the meal he was teaching would cost as his then-restaurant, Masa's. Siegel, ever the irreverent and food-obsessed, said he didn't know, but someone in the class quickly stepped in, correctly asserting "Probably about $250 per person." Siegel retorted, "But you can just go down the street to Craig and Annie Stoll's place [Delfina] and get the same quality ingredients and even perhaps better preparation for $40!"
Camino (5) Oakland -- A new favorite, this place has a very small, daily-changing menu, and it's just a fantastic example of California cuisine. The chef/owner opened it after 20 years at the foundational Chez Panisse, and Camino surpasses Chez Panisse Cafe in all ways other than tradition.
The Bar at Redd (1) Yountville -- I make the distinction from the main dining room this year, as I think the bar menu is just such an incredible value. I also think the food is more appealing, and most of you know I'd rather wear a t-shirt than a button-down and blazer, so the atmosphere of the bar is more appealing as well.
Range (4) SF - Mission -- One of my good friends finds this place to over-season the food, specifically that almost all dishes are too salty. I love salt, so perhaps I am not as sensitive to it, but I don't find the place to be anything but fantastic and consistently so. The pastas are fantastic here, as are the salads, and the daily-changing mains always entice.
NOPA (6) SF - North Panhandle -- This place shows its founders Zuni heritage and even bests it in many ways, illustrated a higher ranking than its inspiration. Be sure to go for a cocktail before the meal, as their "mixology" is definitely one of their strengths. I love the vibrant atmosphere, but it doesn't mean more of a focus on fun than on the food. They nail both.
SPQR (NR) SF - Pacific Heights -- The chef who put A16 on the map, and subsequently this place, Nate Appelman, has left to take advantage of his new fame, and this restaurant has benefited significantly. They revamped the menu, started taking reservations (on OpenTable only), and simply improved all the offerings. It's a great neighborhood Italian, slightly fancier than Dopo, commensurate with the neighborhood this one has around it. All the pasta is "fatta en casa" (made in house), and they do a great job keeping it simple but ensuring enormous flavor and smart, traditional Roman combinations.
The Bar at Spruce (7) SF - Presidio Heights -- Again, I'm making the distinction between the bar and the restaurant. Frankly, I haven't even eaten at the restaurant, but I do know the bar has the best burger in the city, and anywhere that has the best burger in the city should be on this top ten list. The salumi and cheese platters are also great, as are the other small plates. Plus, like NOPA, they know how to make some drinks and create a comfortable, fun atmosphere without sacrificing on food quality.
Beretta (NR) SF - Mission -- The closest thing to Dopo in the city San Francisco itself, this place is a great, casual Italian spot with top-notch, crispy thin-crust pizzas, great pasta dishes, an affordable and attractive wine list, and fantastic cocktails, too.
Zushi Puzzle (3) SF - Marina -- Be sure to sit at the bar. It's an unfortunate reality, but sitting in the restaurant really means you don't get the same fish quality. Be sure to enjoy the variety of fresh options posted on the dry erase board, and you may want to beg Roger for the "Scott Special" -- he doesn't love to make it, as it's time consuming, and it's not on the menu. It is still the best sushi in the Bay Area, bar none, but it's not as consistent as it was a few years ago.

Honorable mention:

Zuni Cafe (2009 rank: 9) SF - Mission
Hog Island Oyster Co (2009 rank: 8) SF - Embarcadero
Taylor's Refresher (2008 rank: 6) SF - Embarcadero
Ritz Carlton Dining Room (2008 rank: 7) SF - Nob Hill
Magnolia Pub -- Best Gastropub SF - Haight
Picante -- Best Mexican Oakland
La Toque -- Best French Napa
Bistro Jeanty -- Best French Bistro Yountville
Dosa -- Best Indian SF - Pac Hts & Mission
Tartine -- Best Bakery SF - Mission
Top Dog -- Best Dog Berkeley
Ton Kiang -- Best Dim Sum SF - Richmond
R&G Lounge -- Best Chinese SF - Chinatown
House of Nanking -- Best Chinese SF - North Beach
Fang -- Best New Chinese SF - SOMA
Jimmy Bean's -- Best Brunch Berkeley
Harris' -- Best Steak SF - Russian Hill
In-N-Out Burger -- Best Fast (tie) SF - Ghirardelli Sq.
Oasis Grill -- Best Fast (tie) SF - Financial Dist.
Absinthe -- Best Duck Confit SF - Hayes Valley
Memphis Minnie's -- Best BBQ SF - Lower Haight
Bar Tartine -- SF - Mission
Chapeau! -- SF - Richmond
Boulevard -- SF - Financial Distict
Wexler's -- SF - Financial District
Chez Panisse -- Berkeley
Chez Panisse Cafe -- Berkeley
Quince -- SF - Financial Dist.
Maverick -- SF - Mission
Ella's -- SF - Laurel Heights
Town Hall -- SF - SOMA

Ten Perfect Meals

2010-03-01T17:00:00.000-08:00

If you've read my other blogs, you'll notice that the defining criteria for my restaurant reviews is always "food quality per dollar." However, there are occasions when you are looking to savor a very special experience that just happens to be based on a meal, and cost is a secondary concern.

Several times, I've been lucky enough to end a meal with a companion or a group and be able to exclaim, "Now that was a truly perfect meal." There are those times, on occasion, when neither the chef nor the servers nor the atmosphere could have been any better. You don't add any seasoning, you send nothing back to the kitchen, you never have an empty glass of water or wine, and you never have to strain to hear your companion(s). In short, not even a perfectionist would do a single thing differently on any of these occasions. It is as if you witness a professional athlete performing at his peak in a major championship competition, and you're the one of the few beneficiaries.

I concede that both company and circumstance typically determine the experience at least as much as the meal, but I have done my best to disaggregate those elements from the overall evaluations. Furthermore, the restaurants here are highlighted because I recall making the "perfect" characterization as we concluded and departed.

A side note that I find interesting is that, including the honorable mentions, three of these experiences were actually first dates with women I ended up dating with some seriousness, so one might venture two conclusions from that bit of data: (a) the chef -- or someone out there -- was conspiring to take the pressure off and make sure the dinner set us on a good course; or (b) my nostalgia has me doing some revisionist history.

However, if you're searching for a great special-occasion type of meal, I propose to you a good starting point with this list:

La Toque (Napa Valley) -- Unfortunately, you can no longer replicate this experience, because it took place in the restaurant's former location; the restaurant has since moved into the new Westin in downtown Napa, losing quite a bit of the charm and atmosphere, while maintaining the excellence in the kitchen. The setting for this perfect meal was their courtyard garden, around a fireplace, and it was my going-away dinner prior to departing the Bay Area for a stint in London. My girlfriend and I enjoyed a six-course tasting menu, where each of us were provided different dishes for each course. Chef Ken Frank's creativity with all local, fresh ingredients and his passion for subtly infusing a French influence made for an incredible and cohesive arrangement of flavors. We opened the evening with a really nice Gosset Brut Rose, and then we enjoyed a fantastic Chablis on the way to a phenomenal bottle of Chambolle-Musigny. The service was impeccable, noticing and respecting the emotional nature of the experience, successfully balancing the requisite privacy and attentiveness. This is the first time I remember saying, practically in unison with my foodie girlfriend at the time, "That really was the most perfect meal." We also both noted that this experience far surprassed either of our experiences at the more famous French Laundry down the road. Fortunately, due to the occasion, money was no object that night, because the check was not for the faint of heart.

Fifth Floor (San Francisco) -- Back when Laurent Gras was working the kitchen at this place and on his way to being named one of the nation's top up-and-coming chefs, I enjoyed an anniversary meal here in a very romantic booth that started with the drinks cart brought to the table for an aperitif. What ensued was a multi-course tasting menu again paired with a white and red bottle of French Burgundy (yes, this will be a theme throughout these entries). Another meal where the cost represented a monthly entertainment budget (and actually was), there was absolutely nothing the restaurant could have done to make the experience more enjoyable.

Boulevard (San Francisco) -- A three-course lunch in 2003, highlighted by cucumber soup with meyer lemon and tiny bacon crunches, a roasted halibut entree, and a very light but tasty meyer lemon and goat cheese soufflee. This was back when Boulevard participated in Restaurant Week/Dine-About-Town, so we paid a whopping $29/person plus a little more for the glasses of wine we each enjoyed alongside.

Gary Danko (San Francisco) -- Another celebration meal, this particular experience was by far the best of my several trips to Gary Danko, which unfortunately have been mixed. However, this time was indeed perfect, and there are absolutely no ways in which the restaurant could have done anything better. We did a three-course tasting menu and wine pairing, and we walked away thinking that the place indeed deserved all its hype. The bananas foster dessert became one of my favorite things to attempt to replicate and surpass at home, and that night has proven a formidable competitor for years.

Dopo (Oakland) -- I've had so many wonderful meals at this place, which really is #1 favorite restaurant in the Bay Area, but one in 2008 with my friends Sandy and Lorena, and Sandy's parents, indeed stands out. Jon's lasagne is still my favorite dish, and Kayta did her part by keeping one for me for dessert since I had to share the first one with the table. We introduced Lorena to Jon's fantastic tuna crudo, and she was changed for life. Lorena previously refused to eat fish altogether; she now seeks out tuna crudo or tartare as an automatic selection on any restaurant menu. We did a salumi selection of house-cured meats and pates, a couple of crispy thin-crust pizzas, and a fresh pasta with chicken sugo, in addition to the lasagne. It was amazing, and it never disappoints. This is one of the few places on this list that makes my other lists (food quality per dollar) and that hasn't lost its luster or its chef.

Oliveto (Oakland) -- Unfortunately, this continues the theme of restaurants enjoyed before their best chefs departed, the meal I'm describing happened was back when Paul Bertolli was still the Executive Chef and my friend Jon Smulewitz (who has since opened two of my favorite places in all the world, Dopo and Adesso) was managing the meats. We had a big table, making it even more difficult for the restaurant to manage successfully, and we ordered nearly everything on the menu and were treated to many things not on the menu.

Matsuhisa (Los Angeles) -- The site of my birthday meal back in 2000 with my great buddies, James and Gareth, the original restaurant that preceded the Nobu chain delivered an incredible experience including both melt-in-your-mouth-fresh sushi and delicate, flavorful, cooked Japanese dishes. The bluefin tuna sashimi still ranks among the best I've ever had (better even than what I had at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo), the famous miso black cod was amazing, the Kuruma shrimp tempura was the tastiest shrimp I've ever had, and it was the first time I enjoyed what has become one of my favorite Japanese dishes, the sumptuous and silken Nasudengaku, a japanese eggplant with a miso glaze.

Loveless Cafe (Outside Nashville) -- I was on a cross-country roadtrip with my good friend James, and we were trying to hit some of the best examples of Southern cuisine as we criss-crossed the southern part of the U.S. After a great day and night enjoying the honky-tonk bars in Nashville, we headed to the famous Loveless Cafe for a late lunch on our way out of Nashville (and on our way to Memphis for some great Barbeque at Rendezvous). Undoubtedly the best fried chicken I've ever had, too much of their famous country ham and some terrific grits, it was the buttermilk biscuits I couldn't stop eating and ultimately gave me the food hangover that lasted at least another 24 hours in the car. We added a BBQ pulled pork sandwich, and I think we might have had food sufficient for five people, not just two. James and I still talk about this meal, and about our excitement for returning. If you're in the area, you must find a way to check this place out, and to take some of their spiced rubs and other accessories with you.

Antico Forno Roscioli (Rome) -- I had two perfect meals at this place, and it may thus be my #1 favorite restaurant of all time. Yes, that is indeed a bold claim, and coming from a guy who ranks everything, it should have some substance. Interestingly, both of my meals there were enjoyed alone when I was working in Rome, so I know the company couldn't have been helping my impression. This place represents everything I value in a restaurant. It is casual, friendly, approachable. The staff is warm and welcoming, attentive and respectful. And the food is all from the heart. The pastas are made in house and perfectly cooked, perfectly dressed. The selection of salumi is also all local artisan-made, and the cheeses are the best I've ever had anywhere. Plus, you can do it all for under $50, including a great bottle of local red wine. I am flying to Rome later this year just to revisit this place, and it wouldn't be crazy to suggest you do the same.

Restaurant Bernard Loiseau (Saulieu, Burgundy Region, France) -- Sadly, only a few weeks after this example of culinary perfection, Bernard Loiseau committed suicide, robbing the world of being able to share the experience I'm about to describe. My girlfriend and I were on a two-week gastronomic adventure in Burgundy, and we knew it would be tough to justify the three-star cost of this place, especially given the incredible country eating we had been doing at far lower prices. However, we sat down for a nine-course experience that can only be described as an "extravaganza." I went vegetarian this night, and my nine-courses minus dessert had truffles as the common theme, and "rich" doesn't even begin to do justice. Her nine-courses were equally elegant, exploring an entire spectrum of the finest in French haute cuisine, and we knew immediately that we'd be on our way to a memory that will endure forever. Paired with local wines, our senses could not have been more overwhelmed. Thankfully, we were staying at the little inn on the same property!

Honorable Mention

Ubon (London) -- My good friend Richard and I frequented this place when I lived in London as I tried to relieve my yearning for San Francisco food, and we became close with the head sushi chef, Yaz, and his entire staff. It turned out that Yaz and I shared a love for a fish London hadn't met yet, Shima Aji, which he then began flying in from Japan and texting me every time it arrived. My going-away meal on my last night prior to returning to the US is the most memorable, and the most perfect, as Yaz really knew what I liked by then. He went nuts giving us an incredible display of his talent, not just for cutting fish, but for preparing truly artistic masterpieces. Yaz has since moved on, continuing the theme of the great chefs achieving perfection and seeking out new challenges, but I'll never forget that perfect meal in 2005.

Ritz Carlton Battery Park (New York) -- Believe it or not, this meal was at a wedding! My friends Dave and Hallee got hitched there, and they treated us to what remains one of my favorite meals ever, and no wedding-related qualification or caveat is necessary. We started out with fantastic sushi at a sushi station, perfect dim sum at the Chinese food station, and incredible cheeses and vegetables, and this was all outside the main banquet hall as a precursor to the real party. Then as we sat at our dinner tables, we were offered a choice of dishes. My girlfriend and I both selected the Filet Mignon for our main course, and we both remarked that it was the best steak we had ever had, hands-down. I've been to nearly every top steakhouse in New York City, and not a single one of them has managed to top that Filet -- and those guys at the Ritz served it to over 200 guests at exactly the same time!

Le Violon d'Ingres (Paris) -- A birthday dinner with family and friends, this meal included the most perfectly seared and seasoned scallops I've ever enjoyed. The restaurant went through a bit of an identity crisis in recent years after it achieved its first Michelin star, but I hear it has since returned to its roots before the star that led to my most memorable meal.

Chez Panisse (Oakland) -- This is the foundational restaurant that must be on every foodie's list. Like Gary Danko, I've had meals that underwhelmed, but I've also had meals that were so close to perfect that any complaint seems overly petty. If you're looking for a special occasion type of restaurant for someone who loves food, there is truly perhaps no better place on earth.

Zuni Cafe (San Francisco) -- While this is one of my local spots I visit regularly, there was a first date at this place that I'll never forget. The food that night, which included the ricotta gnocchi I think is the best I've ever had, the famous roast chicken and its important bread-salad companion-turned-highlight, was impeccable. We had a Drappier champagne and a great bottle of Chambolle-Musigny French Burgundy, and we indulged in a dessert sampling that put us over the top. This place is called "quintessentially San Francisco" for a reason, and it is a great spot for a special occasion or just a burger for a Sunday lunch.

Masa's (San Francisco) -- Back when Ron Siegel was the chef, this was another nearly-perfect birthday meal that involved the seven course tasting menu.

John Ash & Co. (Santa Rosa) -- Another one of my first-date meals, we enjoyed a proper feast, set in a vineyard, ordering multiple options at every course and ensuring we really sampled the chef's best. I haven't been back in many years, but it should be on anyone's list as they travel through the Sonoma side of California wine country.

Range (San Francisco) -- This was another first-date meal, and my favorite, but this place is always at the top of my list for San Francisco eating, because it is simply so consistent.

Enjoy!

San Francisco's Top Ten Burger Joints

2009-09-11T12:01:00.001-07:00

As I enjoyed another of my favorite burgers last night, I was reminded by my dinner companion that I had not yet ranked burgers publicly despite always being on the look-out for the top burger joint in all my regular cities. So here's my take on the Bay Area's Best Burgers:

The Bar at Spruce
The Bar at Redd (Yountville)
Zuni Cafe
Taylor's Refresher (Ahi burger first, beef burger second)
Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery
Mustard's Grill (Yountville)
Street
ACME Chophouse
In-N-Out
Grubstake (at 2am)

Honorable mention but probably unfair to rank officially is my own home-ground, grilled burger take on the Zuni Cafe recipe. I prefer a real bun to Zuni's ACME herbed foccaccia bread and I can choose from a wider selection of cheeses and condiments when I make it myself, of course. The KitchenAid meat grinder attachment makes this easy to do, and you will never go back to buying those pre-formed or even butcher-ground beef burgers once you grind your own meat that you've seasoned the night before. That said, I don't do fries as well as most of the places on this list above, and I don't even attempt them; I stick with my favorite rosemary roasted potatoes instead (another recipe inspired by Judy Rodgers' Zuni Cafe).

Notably missing: Balboa Cafe -- more because of ambience than actual taste, but I still don't see how it's so many people's fave!

Looking forward to plenty of debate on this one!

2009's Top Ten Restaurants in San Francisco & the Bay Area

2009-01-09T08:26:00.000-08:00

It seems I always write these from afar. Last year, my first blog -- the Top Ten Restaurants -- was written while I was temporarily living in Rome. This year, it's while I'm temporarily living in Washington, D.C. I think it suggests that I miss San Francisco food, and to do so even while living in another food mecca like Italy is quite a statement.

As people continue to ask for restaurant recommendations in my favorite culinary capital, I figured it was time to update last year's list. I do not claim to have eaten everywhere possible, nor to even have a totally open mind, but I know and love food, so here's my take on the best places (considering dollar for quality, now more than ever) to eat in the Bay Area, with last year's ranking in parentheses:

[Comments and controversy welcome as always!]

The Bar at Redd (Restaurant: 1, Bar: NR) Yountville -- I make the distinction from the main dining room this year, as I think the bar menu is just such an incredible value. I also think the food is more appealing, and most of you know I'd rather wear a t-shirt than a button-down and blazer, so the atmosphere of the bar is more appealing as well.
Dopo (2) Oakland -- It gets better and better, and the wonderful people and service stay just as good. I have had the opportunity to enjoy lunches there more this year, and I'm grateful for it. Their paninis are amazing. For dinner, the lasagne remains the best I've ever had, the pesce crudos are melt-in-your-mouth good with tons of flavor and complexity, and Jon's salumi platters are second-to-none. I also contend the pizza there is as good as anywhere, and certainly better than any place that isn't explicitly a pizzeria. Plus, Jon, Kayta, David, Pete and the whole crew there are just so great - everyone's family.
Zushi Puzzle (3) SF - Marina -- Still the best, but sitting at the bar is the way to ensure you have the most consistent quality. Be sure to enjoy the variety of fresh options posted on the dry erase board, and you may want to beg Roger for the "Scott Special" -- he doesn't love to make it, as it's time consuming, and it's not on the menu. I did have my first less-than-amazing piece of sushi there this past year, but it was only one piece, and it was overwhelmed by the other phenomenal experiences, which numbered at least 40 on the year. Yes, 40 times in one year -- if that's not an endorsement of a restaurant, I don't know what is. I went to Dopo about 10 times, Redd Bar, Zuni, and Range 5 each. Maybe that's a running ranking that merits its own entry at a future time...
Range (NR) SF - Mission -- One of my good friends finds this place to over-season the food, specifically that almost all dishes are too salty. I love salt, so perhaps I am not as sensitive to it, but I don't find the place to be anything but fantastic and consistently so. The pastas are fantastic here, as are the salads, and the daily-changing mains always entice. This is a big move
Camino (NR) Oakland -- A new favorite, this place has a very small, daily-changing menu, and it's just a fantastic example of California cuisine. The chef/owner opened it after 20 years at the foundational Chez Panisse, and Camino surpasses Chez Panisse Cafe in all ways other than tradition.
NOPA (NR) SF - North Panhandle -- This place shows its founders Zuni heritage and even bests it in many ways, illustrated a higher ranking than its inspiration. Be sure to go for a cocktail before the meal, as their "mixology" is definitely one of their strengths. I love the vibrant atmosphere, but it doesn't mean more of a focus on fun than on the food. They nail both.
The Bar at Spruce (NR) SF - Presidio Heights -- Again, I'm making the distinction between the bar and the restaurant. Frankly, I haven't even eaten at the restaurant, but I do know the bar has the best burger in the city, and anywhere that has the best burger in the city should be on this top ten list. The salumi and cheese platters are also great, as are the other small plates. Plus, like NOPA, they know how to make some drinks and create a comfortable, fun atmosphere without sacrificing on food quality.
Hog Island Oyster Co (8) SF - Embarcadero -- The best oysters and the best grilled cheese. If they have them, try the Kusshi oysters. They're my new favorite and even better than the amazing kumamotos from Tomales Bay.
Pizzeria Delfina (NR) SF - Pac Hts & Mission -- Best pizzeria I've found, especially because I can get such great fresh mozzarella in a salad, fantastic sausages when available, and other starters and ingredients that reflect its sister restaurant's heritage and super reputation.
Zuni Cafe (9) SF - Market St. -- Still the most quintessential SF dining option, and still wonderful. This place seems especially appropriate on rainy winter days or foggy summer ones, as it just warms you with its food and atmosphere. Plus, the oyster bar is fantastic. Don't miss the roast chicken, and try to get there on a Sunday for the burger.

Honorable mentions (lots of changes this year, and many of these are the fancier places that just can't get into the top ten because their higher prices don't generate commesurately higher food quality):

Delfina (2008 rank: 4) SF - Mission
Taylor's Refresher (2008 rank: 6) SF - Embarcadero
Ritz Carlton Dining Room (2008 rank: 7) SF - Nob Hill
Picante -- Best Mexican Oakland
La Toque -- Best French Napa
Dosa -- Best Indian SF - Pac Hts & Mission
Tartine -- Best Bakery SF - Mission
Top Dog -- Best Dog Berkeley
Ton Kiang -- Best Dim Sum SF - Richmond
Jimmy Bean's -- Best Brunch Berkeley
Harris' -- Best Steak SF - Russian Hill
In-N-Out Burger -- Best Fast (tie) SF - Ghirardelli Sq.
Oasis Grill -- Best Fast (tie) SF - Financial Dist.
Absinthe -- Best Duck Confit SF - Hayes Valley
Bar Tartine -- SF - Mission
Chapeau! SF - Richmond
SPQR SF - Pacific Heights
Boulevard SF - Financial Dist.
Presidio Social Club SF - Presidio
Chez Panisse Berkeley
Chez Panisse Cafe Berkeley
Quince SF - Financial Dist.
Maverick SF - Mission
Ella's SF - Laurel Heights

Top 7 Places San Francisco Needs

2008-08-11T18:39:00.001-07:00

Though everyone knows I think San Francisco is the #1 eating town in the country and probably worldwide, there are still some elements lacking in our eating, dining and drinking scenes. Consider this a recipe for restauranteurs and entrepreneurs (or a prediction of what will open in the next couple of years here):

7. A great cheese and charcuterie shop that's reasonably priced. Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Building is good but way too expensive and too small; Cheese Plus is on the right track but misses a seating area and the true engagement of the customer in the tasting and selection process. Cheeseboard Cooperative in Berkeley is close and wonderful. This idea would likely be a great extension to the wine bar concept that has just overwhelmed the city, and I imagine it could be done very profitably. For a reference and model to emulate, check out Roscioli in Rome.

6. A good Jewish deli. Nowhere in SF can you get a good corned beef or pastrami sandwich. Or on a cold night, a big bowl of Matzoh Ball Soup. Across the bay, Saul's is pretty darn good, but New Yorkers and LA transplants always lament how far it is from Katz's or 2nd Avenue deli in New York or Canter's in Lalaland.

5. Late-night ethnic food options. It's basically Pizza Orgasmica or bust at 1am, unless you're in the Mission where you'll find some decent Mexican options. I know we all have those late-night food cravings, so what's the deal? Why not a good shawerma or Thai delivery place?

4. Great outdoor eating. We do have some good spots with limited outdoor tables (Rose's Cafe, Chouquet's), but how many times have you wanted to sit outside and enjoy the early evening with an aperitif and a good bite to eat? I concede that June gloom is a detraction, but how about all those warm days in April, May, September and October?

3. Really good Indian food. It makes absolutely no sense that we have such poor Indian food here in the Bay Area, given our demographic reality. I do like Shalimar and Vik's Chaat House, but these just don't hold a candle to the likes of London's Chutney Mary (medium-priced, super high-quality), Lahore Kebab House (really casual, BYOB, incredibly delicious), and Vama (the high-end Michelin starred kind of place). These three represent a wide range of service options and settings and put the bar quite high on food quality. Lahore Kebab House also sparkles with my standard of "food quality per dollar."

2. An Italian gastro-bar. High tables, Italian aperitifs, house-made charcuterie, and the bustle of Roma. Mario Batali brought it to New York in Otto... now it's time for one in San Francisco.

1. A great dive bar with peanut shells on the floor. Where have they all gone and why don't we have a single one?

What else do you think we're missing here in culinary paradise? Register your requests.

America's Best Sushi

2008-07-03T06:53:00.000-07:00

Those who know me will be surprised to learn two things I should disclose up front: (a) that I didn't eat sushi until I was 21; and (b) that I think LA is the best sushi city I've ever visited. The first disclosure is unbelievable because of how often I now eat sushi and how much everyone knows I love it. Friends would be incredulous when hearing the latter statement because normally I sound like a representative of the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce, and nobody in SF admits that anything is better in LA (even the weather!). However, LA has more customers demanding high quality sushi, so I think they have just solved a simple supply-and-demand problem. The best sushi place in the country, however, is not in Lalaland. It has become my "local" as those in England call their neighborhood stand-by pub.

To be clear, I haven't paid the $350/person price tag for Masa, Urasawa or any of their derivatives, because I simply don't think you need to pay that much to have amazingly high quality fish. The places below range from pretty-darn-cheap to reasonably-expensive, and as with all my rankings of food establishments, the quality per dollar is the dominant, defining criteria. However, in the case of a sushi-specific ranking, I have also balanced the following critical components: (a) pure fish quality (freshness, melt-in-your-mouth sensation, etc.); (b) diversity of selection and availability of rare fish types; (c) success with the simple nigiri or sashimi options, rather than fancy, new rolls; (d) facility with the knife by the sushi chef. I always try to sit at the sushi bar in front of the lead chef (if not the owner) in order to learn about his background, explore his supplier sources, and watch his magic.

Here are my favorite sushi places in the US:

Zushi Puzzle - San Francisco
Matsuhisa - Los Angeles
Kabuto - San Francisco (was #1 bar none before chef/owner Sachio Kojima left in 2005 for the Lake Shasta area, and I haven't tried his new place up there yet)
Sushi Nozawa - Los Angeles
"Secret Sushi" (unnamed) - San Francisco (Inner Sunset)
Katsu-Ya - Los Angeles
Asanebo - Los Angeles
Sushi Yasuda - New York
Tomoe Sushi - New York
Sushi Ran - Sausalito

I'd love to hear about new sushi places in cities where I will actually believe good sushi could exist, like Seattle, Portland, San Diego, Miami, DC, Chicago, Honolulu. (In other words, don't send me Boston recommendations; all of the sushi in Boston is awful if you've ever had sushi at one of the places listed above. A prominent newspaper once said that Oishii is the "best sushi in the Northeast" -- what an indictment of an entire region that represents! I can't believe that places in the Midwest other than Chicago could really have fish fresh enough, because I think there probably isn't a fresh fish market outside of Chicago large enough to justify the daily flights of fresh fish from the North Atlantic or Northern Pacific. I don't know of any good spots in Miami, though I'd guess there should be. The same goes for San Diego, where I've eaten a fair amount of sushi that just isn't in the same league as its Southern California rival city. I'm sure I've just missed some great spots there though; there's no reason they wouldn't have a few gems. And while I had high hopes for sushi in Hawaii, I ate at the top three places according to reviewers and locals, and all of them disappointed.)

One prerequisite for consideration on this list is that the sushi chef actually know what type of tuna he is serving. If he can't tell me that it's blue fin or big eye or something else, they're not playing the same game as the folks above. (A Bay Area favorite, Berkeley's Kirala, is an embarassing example of this scenario.) Ideally, they have multiple types, and a whole host of other options with granular specificity in the description and the origin.

San Francisco's Top 10 Cocktail Spots

2008-07-03T03:24:00.000-07:00

When I go out, I'm a vodka-soda guy (favorite vodkas: Grey Goose and Effen), but occasionally I'll mix in a caipirinha, a pastis aperitif, or a good single-malt. I should disclose that I'd prefer a dive bar anyday over a trendy cocktail joint, but I can't seem to find any bars with peanut shells on the floor anymore. However, I do dig the retro-drink trend that seems to have caught fire in SF and NYC.

I'm looking for new places to try, so please comment with your own recommendations, but here are my favorite spots for getting a good drink (made by a bartender who knows what s/he is doing) on the way to dinner or after it:

NOPA*
Bourbon & Branch
Absinthe*
Range*
Rye
Spruce*
Redwood Room
Americano
Lion's Den
Solstice

*denotes that great "bar food" is also available to accompany your favorite cocktail

Best Cheap Eats in the San Francisco Bay Area

2008-04-01T08:33:00.001-07:00

The first thing you should ask me is how I've defined "cheap eats." My cheap may not equal your cheap, and my reliance on Time Out's cheap eats publication when I lived in London as an exchange student certainly had a different ceiling than this list's.

For the sake of discussion, let's call the prerequisite for this list a restaurant where the entrees on the menu are under $15. Yeah, you need to actually have a job to eat at most of these places; they may represent splurges for grad students or starving artists (but that's why they're always referred to as "starving"!). Furthermore, the place has to actually give you an entree that suffices for an entire meal's worth of caloric intake, so you don't have to stop at the In N' Out on the way home in order to feel fully satiated.

You will notice some overlap between this list and my top ten list, and that's obviously because of what I characterize as the most important (read: #1 criteria) for that list: food quality per dollar.

If you want to go with wine, that's a separate cost question, but I'll note a few places with very reasonable wine lists here.

So here's my much-requested, unranked list of my favorite places to eat on a normal person's Tuesday night (or Saturday afternoon) budget:

Dopo -- To qualify for the cheap eats list (all items on the menu meet the $15 threshold, but some are not sufficiently filling to really fit the profile here), you'll have to go for the mind-numbingly tasty lasagne; the awesome, authentic Northern Italian-style pizzas with super-fresh, high quality, local ingredients and a wonderfully crispy crust; or a platter of the house-cured salumi and local green salad. On the Best Cheap Wine List as well.

Taylor's Refresher -- Whether it's the Ahi burger or the beef one, the Miss Kentucky, fish tacos or one of the special sandwiches (my favorite I wish were a permanent fixture is a seriously superior steak sandwich), you'll get more than your money's worth. On the Best Cheap Wine List as well.

Pizzeria Delfina -- Near the top of the pizza list, at the top of the ingredient-quality list, and absolutely the best of the bunch for the range of options that qualify for the Cheap Eats list and make you simply happy. On the Best Cheap Wine List as well.

La Taqueria -- Find me a better burrito or superior chicken tacos.

Picante -- Alice Waters' Mexican spot in Berkeley. If you haven't been here yet, you really are missing out. It's a bit of Berkeley take on authentic Mexican.

Jimmy Bean's -- Such a Berkeley place, you can't go wrong with a single thing on the menu.

Tartine -- Grilled cheese that is nothing like what Mom made of white bread and Kraft American cheese slices, and quiches/tarts that erase any regret that you're not eating it on a Parisian sidewalk (and paying in Euros!).

Cheeseboard -- Just one pizza choice per day, and that doesn't even feel limiting here.

Saul's -- The only place in Northern California that almost makes me miss 2nd Ave Deli in New York a little less.

Ton Kiang -- My (and Robin Williams') favorite dim sum around.

Vik's Chaat House -- Tasty street treats and a bustling atmosphere at this Indian joint in Berkeley.

Pacific Catch -- Almost chain-y, I still need to throw this place on this list because in all honesty, this is probably my favorite Tuesday night fast/cheap eat option. It's healthy, light, tasty, convenient and reliable.

Hog Island Oyster Co. -- The only way this place gets on the list is if you don't eat what you likely came to experience, i.e., the oysters. So while I challenge you to go here and avoid that temptation, you will not be disappointed if you have what I think is the best grilled cheese I've had, with three wonderful cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery on toasted, buttery Acme Bakery bread. Another entry on the Best Cheap Wine List.

Street -- Some entrees qualify, others don't, but just have the burger. I'll bet you that it's as good as your favorite.

Top Dog -- Whether it's recalling those Louisiana Hot Links I had at 2am after a party with Berkeley students back in the day or a more likely current scenario picking up a quick bite on my way to see a show at The Greek, this place is great.

Barbara's Fish Trap -- Best fish & chips I've had (and I used to live in London -- twice!), and from your seat at the checker-box tablecloth sea-view table, you can even watch the fish coming in for the folks at the end of the to-be-seated line.

China House -- Maybe you'll think this is a funny entry, but if I'm ordering take-out, this is my place. They'll do all-white-meat chicken, and the stuff is just higher quality cheap Chinese than nearly anywhere.

Su Hong -- Chinese chicken salad that my mom likes more than even my dad's wonderful home-cookin'.

Top Ten Things to Eat in Paris

2008-03-17T03:13:00.000-07:00

Having just spent a fantastic weekend in Paris, I thought I would compile a list of my favorite things to eat in Paris. I started calling this list the top five, but I just couldn't exclude the next five. Hence, a top ten list.

Given that I have been lucky enough to travel to Paris for three reasons (yes, another list: friends, food and art), I spend a good deal of time figuring out how to maximize my time in each of those three areas. And since friends and art can be organized around food as well, that category benefits the most. So here's the list:

Croissant au beurre (as opposed to croissant ordinaire -- this distinction is important, and the best ones come from places which offer both, and thus give you the option of having the extra-indulgent, greasy, and wonderfully luscious type)

Ossau Iraty cheese from Androuet or really any good fromagerie

Poulet de Bresse on the rotisserie at the local boucherie

Crepes (sweet ones on the street -- au buerre sucre, au nutella et bananas; and savory buckwheat ones in a breton or normand restaurant -- au jambon et fromage, with or without the oeuf)

Duck confit (try Les Philosophes in the Marais, which does it with a honey and spice combination that is sweet and salty at the same time)

Falafel from L'As du Falafel in the Marais

Fines claires numero 6 (the smallest oysters I've been able to find; have a lemon and some mignonette handy)

Pate de campagne from a local boucherie (or Le Comptoir in the 7e - best I've found)

Hand-made chocolates from Michel Cluizel in the 1e

Berthillon ice cream on Ile St. Louis

What do you love to eat in Paris?

My list of honorable mentions:

Tartine at the boulangerie: great baguette, sea-salted butter from Brittany, and myrtilles (blueberry) jam
Croque madame at almost any brasserie
Quiche Lorraine with salade verte
Pizza at San Remo in the 17e (add an egg for a Southern French style)
Coquilles St. Jacques (scallops) at Violon d'Ingres
Tartes from Fauchon
24-month aged Tomme de Savoie cheese
Assiettes de saucissons secs and jambon (again Le Comptoir stands out in this regard, but you can always collect a fun sampling at a local butcher)
Roasted potatoes with extra drippings from aforementioned rotisserie chicken at the boucherie

The Five Worst Things About World Travel

2008-02-26T03:04:00.000-08:00

Some people think it's glamorous to galavant around the world the way my work has required of me for the past ten years. While I concede I have had some amazing and enriching experiences as a world traveler, sometimes you just want to come home. I often really miss a quiet weekend at home with a trip to the Ferry Plaza for some great ingredients, an afternoon hike in Mount Tam, and a late afternoon with a glass of wine or scotch cooking up the produce from the market and the crab from Tomales Bay I picked up on the way home...

Now that I'm coming home today after spending 10 of the past 12 weeks in Paris, London, Munich, Berlin, Rome, Venice, and Florence, I thought would share my ranking of the worst things common to world travel:

5. Time waiting. Getting coughed on at check-in, searching for all the necessary documents at security, figuring out which taxis take credit cards at the cab stand, at the ATM machines getting new currency, frantically finding a way through the interactive voice on the phone changing flights, in the passport lines, standing in the airplane aisle while the slow people figure out that international planes only allow 20" carry-ons and not the 22" ones common in the US, awaiting your luggage because you couldn't carry on your shaving cream, getting through the 2-hour line at Paris CDG because they lost your luggage, and worst of all, awaiting the arrival of the lost luggage (this last time, my luggage was lost for the entire 9 days I was in Paris, arriving back to me literally 7 hours before I left my apartment for the flight home!).

4. Dining alone. While eating well can surely happen more easily when you travel on an expense account, the expense account also often means that you're flying solo for a late meal. And although I do enjoy catching up on my International Herald Tribune or a great book, good dinners and good wine are much better with good company.

3. Lacking a kitchen. If you know me, you know how much hotel rooms "sans cuisine" (without a kitchen) kills me. I love to cook, and even more, I love to cook with the local ingredients. Hotel rooms booked for work travel are usually pretty nice, but they are not geared for someone to cook his own food.

2. Time zone discrepancies. I am lucky enough to have wonderful friends and family, most of whom live in the US of A. The time zone difference is crushing, with my evening being my East Coast friends' middle-of-the-workday period and my West Coast friends' first hours of email catch-up. My mornings are when you all are asleep! Thanks to email, I still know what a few of my friends are doing...

1. Being associated with the annoying American tourists (yes, sometimes I'm sure I am one, too!)

Honorable mentions:

Snack food costs $9 per serving
Finding good restaurants in a foreign place that doesn't have good Zagat coverage
Ordering innards when you thought it was just beef
Anti-Americanism
Obnoxious American tourists
Waking up at 3 in the morning thinking it's time to go to work
Not falling asleep before 3 in the morning because it's still the middle of the day
Lack of fresh vegetables in a lot of places (yes, I'm so spoiled!)
Different service level standards
Airplane grime
Laundry!

What do you hate about international travel?

Best things to eat in the San Francisco Bay Area

2008-02-25T05:50:00.001-08:00

This would be a really tough list to rank an individual entry relative to another, as the standing often depends on my mood, my location, the time of day, even the availability of the vendor. It's also probably one of the lists, or rankings, that causes me the most trouble with my friends, because I'm sure I've put more than five of these at the top of a list being declared at any given time. As a result, it's just a list and not a ranking, but it can represent a great way to experience the Bay Area and all of the culinary delights we have to offer.

I'd love to know some of the items that would go on your own list so that I can add to my own, so I invite a robust discussion...

My favorite things to eat in the Bay Area (a key prerequisite is that someone else either prepares it for me or serves it to me, i.e., not raw ingredients I could serve myself -- that's another list):

Lasagne at Dopo in Oakland
The morning bun at La Farine in Berkeley
A kusshi oyster at Hog Island Oyster Co. in the Ferry Plaza
Grilled cheese at Hog Island
Coffee at Blue Bottle Coffee Co. in Hayes Valley or the Ferry Plaza
"Scott's Special" at Zushi Puzzle in the Marina
Fish and chips at Barbara's Fish Trap in Montara
French fries at the Alpine Inn (Risotti's) in Portola Valley
Cream of tomato soup en croute at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville
Fish tacos at the bar at Redd in Yountville
A burger at Zuni Cafe in the Castro/Market
Cappucino at Caffe Trieste in North Beach
A Louisiana hot link in the bleachers at a Giants game
General Tso's chicken at Su Hong in Menlo Park
Chicken tacos at La Taqueria in the Mission
Bacon at ACME Chop House in China Basin
Kielbasa at Top Dog in Berkeley
Vegetable samosas at Vik's Chaat House in Berkeley
Pancakes at Bette's Diner in Berkeley
Minced chicken in lettuce cups at Mandarin Oriental in Palo Alto
Eggs Benedict at Jimmy Bean's in Berkeley
Freshly roasted Diestel turkey breast at Golden Gate Meat Co in the Ferry Plaza
Bananas foster at Gary Danko in Ghirardelli Square
T-bone at Harris' in Russian Hill/Van Ness
Roast fingerling potatoes at Zuni Cafe in Castro/Market
Tuna crudo at Dopo in Oakland
Salumi platter at Dopo in Oakland
Figs with aged, home-made balsamic vinegar at Oliveto in Oakland
Onion strings at Mustard's Grill in Oakville
Pulled pork sandwich with cole slaw at Taylor's Refresher in St Helena and the Ferry Plaza
A cacao nib at Scharffen Berger factory in Berkeley
Table made s'mores at Market in St Helena
Southwestern corn chowder at SF Soup Co all over the city
Barbeque pork buns at Ton Kiang in the Richmond
Butter fish nigiri at Zushi Puzzle in the Marina
Blue fin tuna sashimi at Kabuto in the Richmond
Chocolate souffle at Chez Panisse in Berkeley
Ricotta souffle at Delfina in the Mission
Cheese platter at Gary Danko in Ghirardelli Square
Huevos Rancheros at Miss Millie's (now Somerset in Oakland)
Cinnamon doughnut at Maverick in the Mission

What do you love to eat?

Top 10 San Francisco Bay Area Restaurants

2008-02-21T09:11:00.000-08:00

It is only appropriate that my initial ranking posted here be about food, as it's one of my favorite passions (that list to come later) and definitely my most commonly ranked set of options for my friends (another list to be published, of course).

So here's my top ten list for dining out in the San Francisco Bay Area, where I've lived, eaten, drunk and cooked for most of my 30 years. For dining, my most important criteria is always quality per dollar, with food quality trumping all other elements but not excluding other very subjective measures like experience, service, appropriateness of menu, ingredient quality and sources, authenticity... and the list goes on.

So here you go, and let the debates begin:

Redd (Yountville) -- in particular the bar at Redd. Those fish tacos are incredible, as are the many other wonderful options on the very reasonably priced bar menu. Every meal I've had at Redd, both at the bar and in the restaurant, has truly been perfect. I can't even try to complain about any component of them.
Dopo (Oakland) -- I must disclose personal bias, as Jon Smulewitz, the chef/owner, is one of my favorite people around (that list will not get published, I don't think!). However, the food is top notch, with a fantastic, changing menu, ingredients that other famous restaurants would kill to have, and a general feel of the place that sets the bar for every neighborhood trattoria in the world (and I'm writing this from Rome). Kayta saves a lasagna for me for dessert after I have to share it with the table during the regular meal-time; it's the best lasagna I've ever had. Jon also converted a non-fish-eating friend [LORENA/LP/SOON TO BE LPSCOTT -- see comments :)] to a tuna crudo lover with his concoction I will also say is an absolutely wonderful combination of tastes.
Zushi Puzzle (Marina) -- "my" sushi place. Roger does as well as anyone, with a breadth of fish options that I haven't seen elsewhere. Don't ask for the "Scott Special," though, unless you really do know me. Roger will test you, because he really doesn't love to make it -- it takes too much time.
Delfina (Mission) -- this is the restaurant that to me defines San Francisco's culinary superiority. Here's the example that illustrates the point: at a cooking class in 2003, Ron Siegel (see below) was asked how much he would charge at Masa's for the meal he was teaching us. He replied that he didn't make the prices, but he expected it would be typical of a Masa's tasting menu, somewhere around $125. Then he encouraged the audience to go down to Delfina, where we'd find a very similar meal with ingredients of the same quality and preparation of equal standing, for $30. And there you have it.
Tartine Bakery (Mission) -- the #1 bakery, bar none, and an awesome place to grab lunch. Truly indulgent in every way and just plain cute.
Taylor's Refresher (St. Helena more than SF Ferry Plaza) -- There's good reason why this favorite of the local wine industry generated the reputation it did; it's so in the Northern California spirit. Casual, comfortable, easy, super high-quality, "road-side" food... with a great wine selection.
Ritz-Carlton Dining Room (Nob Hill) -- this is really a "nod" to Ron Siegel, who I think was better at Masa's and is rumored to be heading over to Myth very shortly as the new owner and chef there. However, I think he's the top high-end chef in San Francisco, with creativity and careful-ness that I have not seen elsewhere. The menu at the Ritz is bigger than what it was at Masa's, and I don't know how that has affected his sense of flexibility. I've had only two meals at the Ritz during his tenure, and three at Masa's when he was there. All were truly perfect expressions of his artistry and all were incredible, memorable experiences.
Hog Island Oyster Co. (SF Ferry Plaza) -- on an oyster list, this place would be #1, and on a grilled cheese list, this place would also garner the top spot. And since both oysters and grilled cheese will show up on my certain-to-come list of favorite foods, Hog Island needs to be in this ranking.
Zuni Cafe (Castro/Market) -- the quintessential San Francisco restaurant. I had my first disappointing meal here just two weeks ago, but I fault myself for my choice in ordering; the person with whom I dined doesn't eat oysters, and that just got us off on the wrong foot! The roast chicken is the best anywhere other than perhaps my own apartment (which is modeled after Judy's recipe anyway, and I've just been able to make it more to my own liking because I make it for myself and those I love). And go on a Sunday for a late lunch, so that you can have the burger that's not on the menu for dinner time.
Chez Panisse and Chez Panisse Cafe (Berkeley) -- I know, I'm sort of cheating here by putting both as my #10. Really, this is just an attempt to somehow give appropriate credit to the woman who deserves so much for my enjoyment of food and all of the restaurants above on this list. Alice Waters is the pioneer of California cuisine, of local sourcing, of organic, of nearly every important innovation in the way we eat. It is because of these innovations that I love food, and while I'm not sure Chez Panisse is good enough to beat out the many restaurants that are not on this list, it definitely has with many of the meals I've enjoyed there. And the cafe is one of the truly great values in the world, a place you can find incredibly high-quality ingredients -- inventive combinations of tastes that are uniquely simple and elegant. And if you really are a "foodie," Chez Panisse is your mecca.

In order to recognize to some of my other favorites, here's a list of "honorable mentions":

Top Dog (Berkeley)
Pauline's Pizza (Mission)
Range (Mission)
Bistro Jeanty (Yountville)
Chouquet's (Pac Hts)
Frascati (Russian Hill)
In 'N Out (all over)
Harris' (Russian Hill/Van Ness)
Vik's Chaat House (Berkeley)
Jimmy Bean's (Berkeley)
Ton Kiang (Richmond)
Kabuto (Richmond)
Yankee Pier (Larkspur)
Chapeau! -- now moved to Clementine (Richmond)
Boulevard (Downtown/Embarcadero)
Picante (Berkeley)
La Taqueria (Mission)

Introduction to "The Ranker"

2008-02-21T09:01:00.000-08:00

Everyone who knows me knows well my penchant for creating sometimes very absurd ranked lists. While I think it allows me to provide some structure to a concept I'm explaining, an opinion I'm sharing, or a thing I'm observing, I recognize it sometimes backfires...

It can provoke an engaging discussion, but it can also incite anger. Despite being meant to convey some sort of order, I often have a lot of "#3s in the world" which thus causes some credibility challenges. Just imagine what happens with my friends who spend a lot of time with me and hear all the "#1 bests" that they hear. Of course, our opinions and rankings should evolve over time as new information is added, right?

Nonetheless, they usually remain my friends, revel in the amusement my rankings provide laughing both at and with me, and even rely on the rankings as at least one source of information about a topic.

I mean, hey, in order to conjure up a ranking system for the "best looking outdoor cafe chairs," I had to at least give it some thought -- probably more thought than most of the people willing to hear me express the view.

Here on this blog, I will catalogue my rankings for your amusement and for your information. And in my continued effort to become a better person through enhanced self-awareness, it will be interesting for me to note the trend in blog entries that do not include rankings. And please permit me to change the rankings as new sources of information are processed, new criteria are added and new experiences absorbed.

Enjoy!