Chef Gresser is considered by many to be one of the best pizza makers around. She gets high praises from The Washington Post and The Washington Business Journal as well as Zaget’s Guide. As a graduate of Madeleine Kamman’s Classical and Modern French Cooking School in Glen, NH, Ruth has been a chef demonstrator for The Smithsonian Institution as well as a guest chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.

Chef Gresser has put together a series of cooking videos on making pizza that I will be posting on my web site. You can see the first three on making pizza dough by hand and with a mixer here.

When I emailed Ruth about my Bermuda Pizza experience and asked her some general questions about preparing a great pizza, she wrote back and gave me some great advice that I would like to share with you. We also talked about doing a Novice2Pro interview and I’m hoping as I experiment making pizza in our wood-burning oven, Ruth can guide me to success.

Here is Chef Gresser’s response to my email. There is a lot of great information in it for anyone who enjoys making pizza at home.

“I can’t tell you the reasons you preferred your friend’s pizza over your own, I will give you some general thoughts on pizza making and the wood-burning oven.

I find that the three main factors contributing to the final pizza you make are

The discussions proceed from there to the variations due to the different ingredients used, the rising times and temperatures, and the cooking methods used.

I believe that the dough should be soft, supple and well hydrated. This kind of dough requires less movement to stretch and results in a nice oven spring and an open structure in the crust. Because the dough is easy to work, you can stretch the dough using either a rolling pin, or your hands, or a combination of the two.

Dough worked solely by hand will produce a more varied crumb, but not necessarily a better crumb. The main thing to remember is that if you use a rolling pin, do not treat the dough aggressively or roughly. If you work the dough too roughly, it will loose more of the structure you have created during the rising than is necessary, and it may not recover in the oven.

Finally, there is a wide temperature range to be discussed, with the minimum temperature needed to make a pizza of the quality I believe you are looking for being 600-650 degrees. The range goes from there to 800 or 900 degrees. We cook our pizza at 650 degrees, and the pizzas take about 5 minutes to cook.

The higher the temperature, the less time the top of the pizza will take to cook. This obviously means that the crust needs to be completely cooked that same timeframe. We keep our temperature on the lower side because the pizza we make is not too thin in the center and has a corona that is bready in style of crumb and texture. By cooking it at a relatively lower temperature, the crust is given time to cook thoroughly without scorching excessively.

As I said earlier the conversation continues from here. I would suggest you focus on these three areas first and develop a pizza that you find appealing. If you still think that your pizza can use improvement, start experimenting with different flours, leavens and risings.

Hope this is helpful and I look forward to hearing back regarding your results.

Have fun and Eat Your Pizza,
Ruth “

Adapted from The BBQ issue of Bon Appetit, (which means I made a few changes to suit the tastes of my family or what ingredients I have on hand in my kitchen) this recipe is easy to make but does take a little longer than just making some patties and throwing them on the grill. However, the extra work is well worth the final results.

When I told my kids and their friend who was over for dinner that we were having lamb burgers, they all said no way they would eat them. I was a little concerned because the recipe calls for adding a little curry to the blend and I thought it might be a little overwhelming for them.

I was wrong. They ate them all and asked for more. They even enjoyed the Mint Raita sauce as a topping. These will be prepared again and I’m wondering if I can convert this recipe into a meat loaf in the fall.

Grilled Curry Lamb Burgers

Ingredients:

Raita (an Indian condiment using yogurt as a base and used as a dipping sauce)
1 cup plain yogurt – I used non-fat yogurt but whole-milk yogurt might be better
3 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped finely
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, also chopped finely
1 ¼ teaspoons finely grated lime peel
coarse salt, like Kosher or sea salt

Lamb Burgers & Vegetable Toppings

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 ¼ cups yellow onion, chopped fine
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and minced fine
Salt & fresh ground black pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons homemade Garam Masala or Madras curry powder
1 ¾ pounds of ground lamb (look for domestic lamb if you can find it)
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped fine
3 medium sized zucchini, cut into ¼ inch thick slices lengthwise
6 scallions (green onions)
6 pita breads or if you can find them, Indian flatbreads called naans
1 tomato, thinly sliced

How To Make Grilled Lamb Burgers at Home

Start with the Raita

This yogurt based dipping sauce needs to sit and cool for at least 30 minutes or more so I suggest you prepare this first.

Mix the yogurt, mint, cilantro and lime peep in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, to taste and then cover it and stick it into the refrigerator to cool.

Preparing the Burgers and Vegetable Toppings

Getting your burgers and toppings won’t take long so get your grill going especially if using a charcoal grill that takes a while to get to get started. You will be cooking at a medium high temperature.

Take the lamb out of the refrigerator while you prepare the curried onions and ginger. You don’t want to work or grill cold chop meat.

In a medium sized sauté pan or fry pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil until hot. Add the onions, ginger and season with a little salt. When the onions are soft, about 8 minutes, add the Garam Masala or curry powder, stir for 30 seconds and remove from heat. Let this mixture cool to room temperature.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the lamb and onion mixture. Add the cilantro and a little salt and pepper. Don’t overwork the meat too much. Gently combine all the ingredients and make six ½-inch thick lamb burgers.

Place the sliced zucchini and scallions into a bowl and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil along with ½ teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of fresh ground black pepper. Toss to coat.

Start Grilling

Place the vegetables on the grill. I like using one of those grilling baskets or grates so the vegetables don’t fall through. Use a pair of tongs for turning the vegetables. On the other side of the grill, start your burgers. Cook for about 4 minutes until you start seeing grill marks and then flip with a spatula and cook on this side for another 4 minutes for medium-rare, longer for medium.

Remove the vegetables and lamb burgers from the grill and plate. Cut the zucchini and scallions into 2 inch pieces. You can serve this family style and let your friends and/or family put together their own burgers or do it for them.

If you put them together yourself and then serve them, here’s what I do. If using pita bread, I like to carefully make a pocket in the bread, slip in a tomato slice, then the burger, spoon some grilled veggies on top and then a little of the Raita sauce.

If you found some Indian flatbread (called naam and usually about 6 inches long), spread some raita sauce on to the bread, add the lamb burger, top with grilled vegetables and finish with a slice of tomato. Fold in half and serve.

If you have never prepared lamb burgers, I highly recommend you try this recipe. Some of the ingredients may sound overpowering but when combined, they are not. My kids don’t eat curry and they didn’t think they would like lamb in burger form but they all asked for seconds. Even my daughter’s friend Olivia who was over for dinner enjoyed her lamb burger.

Give them a try. They are as Good As It Gets!

The food was amazing and we never once went out for dinner. Not only are Will and Linda fantastic cooks, Will is a 5th generation family member running Miles Market, Bermuda’s Famous World of Fine Food started in 1862. Will continuously surprised us with delicious local ingredients plus some of the finest products imported from Europe.
Like his father Harry before him, Will has continued to transform Miles Market into one of the premier gourmet markets in the world. If you visit Bermuda and are looking for the best the island has to offer in food and wine, you must visit Miles Market on The Waterfront at Pitts Bay. It is a foodie’s paradise.

Making Pizza In Bermuda

If you have been following my blog, you have seen posts talking about our new outdoor wood-burning oven. I still have a lot to learn when it comes to cooking with logs in a very hot environment but thought I was getting pretty good at cooking pizza. After spending just one night with Will, who also recently build a wood-burning oven in his back yard, I realized I have a lot to learn.

The biggest difference was his technique to shape the pizza. He does the stretching and shaping all by hand where I was starting with a rolling pin and finishing by hand. I have read that either technique is ok but Will explained the rolling pin compresses the gluten in the dough where stretching by hand pulls it apart. I’m not sure of the science of pizza dough (and I will do some more research and report back) but I have to admit his pizzas had thinner, crispier crusts and tasted much better than mine.

Although both Will and I usually prepare our own pizza dough, we have both taken shortcuts with our pizza making effort by buying the dough commercially. He sometimes gets it from a local pizza restaurant while I have purchased it from one of our local supermarkets. Yes, it is typically better to make it yourself but when making pizza for 20 to 30 people, it is sometimes easier to get some help.

Basic Pizza Dough Recipe

Yields 6-8 individual 8-10” pizzas.

Pizza dough is basically flour, yeast, water and a little oil, sugar and salt but you are going to find a lot of variations if you spend any time looking in your cookbooks or on the Internet.

Here is a basic recipe I have used but will be adding more recipes in the future. I might even create a page on my web site for pizza dough variations so if you would like to share one of your own favorite recipes, please do so in the comments below.

Ingredients:
4 cups high gluten flour
1 1/2 cups warm water
1-teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons yeast, dissolved in ¼ - cup warm water

Mix the flour and salt together in a mixing bowl, add water and dissolved yeast. Be sure to scrape the sides of the bowl to get all the flour into the mix. Keep mixing until the dough batter looks thick.

Lightly flour your work surface and transfer the dough to it. Knead the dough for about 8 minutes until it is smooth and elastic but not sticky. Transfer to a bowl that has been slightly oiled so the dough doesn’t stick. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let it sit (rest) in a warm location for a couple of hours.

Note: The dough is going to rise to double the size so pick your bowl appropriately.

Transfer the dough back to a floured work surface and divide into 6 to 8 pieces that you will gently roll into tight little balls. If using the same day, put the individual dough balls onto a floured surface, cover with kitchen towel and let them rest for at least 1 hour.

We like to put them on a cookie tray, cover them with plastic and let them rest in the refrigerator overnight. Just be sure to let the dough come to room temperature before making your pizza crusts.

You are now ready to make pizza at home in your own oven. I highly recommend using a pizza stone if you don’t have access to an outdoor wood-burning oven like ours.

Many Thanks To Will & Linda

There are many more culinary adventures I can share with you from this trip to Bermuda. I will try to post a traditional Bermuda recipe in upcoming days and I really hope to get Will to participate in an interview about his family’s history at Miles Market. It is really a fascinating history.

I just finish posting an inspiring and educational interview with Ja’Lisa McKeown, a culinary student currently attending classes at The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Michigan. She is also the recipient of the first Reluctant Gourmet Culinary Grant in associated with Chef4Students.org. If you are thinking of going to culinary arts school, this is a must read.

In the interview, I asked Ja’Lisa for one of her favorite recipes and she sent me a recipe for Basil Ice Cream. I know it sounds… different, but I’m sure it is delicious.

Basil Ice Cream

Ingredients

2 cups whole milk
2 cups whipping cream
{Or 4 cups half n half in place of both dairy}
1 lb fresh basil leaves
1 cup sugar, divided
7 egg yolks
1/2 vanilla bean
Fresh basil for garnish

How to Make Basil Ice Cream at Home

In medium saucepan add milk, cream, scraped vanilla beans and pod, 1/2 cup sugar and bring to boil over medium heat. Turn off heat and add basil, allow to steep 15 minutes (chiffonade for stronger basil flavor).

Make Custard: whisk remaining sugar with yolks and temper with steeped mixture.

Return complete tempered egg and dairy mixture to saucepan and bring to boil over medium heat while stirring to avoiding curdling. When mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon and holds a line you drag across with your finger, it’s done (approximately 10 minutes or less).

Strain through a fine mesh chinois/ strainer and refrigerate until completely cool.

Follow instructions on manufacturer’s ice cream maker. Freeze and Voila, Basil Ice Cream.

Enjoy!

Everyone got creative and came up with some interesting combinations. We tried artichokes, anchovies, pepperoni, pineapple, sausage, prosciutto (Italian ham), an assortment of olives, peppers, mushrooms, fresh tomatoes, sun dried tomatoes and I’m sure I’m forgetting some.

For cheese we tried mozzarella, goat, pecorino, Parmesan and fresh buffalo mozzarella. There was tomato sauce, pesto sauce, garlic and olive oil. Each pie was unique and a delight to sample.

The wood-burning oven ranges from 700 to 800 F when cooking pizza. The pies are thin crusted and only about 8 inches in diameter so they cook fast, about 3 to 4 minutes per pie.

Unfortunately it was about 95 outside on Saturday so standing in front of the oven for over 2 hours was a test of endurance. I’m reminded how uncomfortable it must be for professional chefs working in a hot kitchen 8 to 10 hours per day. I was fortunate to have an ice bucket filled with beer next to me so I could grab ice to cool off and replenish my liquids.

There are so many great pizza recipes but I wanted to share with you this one from Wolfgang Puck’s cookbook, Pizza, Pasta, and More! I am a big fan of Chef Puck and find his recipes easy to follow, to the point and most enjoyable. Here is his recipe for Prosciutto and Goat Cheese Pizza.

Prosciutto and Goat Cheese Pizza
Makes two 8-inch pies

Ingredients:
12 ounces pizza dough
¼ cup of pesto – we used store bought, but I have a good recipe for pesto here
1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
1 cup grated Fontina cheese
2 Roma tomatoes, cut into thin slices
2 ounces of prosciutto (Italian ham), cut into thin strips
2 ounces o of goat cheese, cut into small pieces
¼ teaspoon fresh oregano, minced
¼ teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
4 teaspoons grated Parmesan cheese

How to Make a Prosciutto and Goat Cheese Pizza

Chef Puck suggests using a pizza stone placed on the middle rack of your oven that has been preheated to 500 F. Before we had this wood-burning oven, I would use a pizza stone and can highly recommend them if you like to make pizza at home or ever bread for that matter. They really make a difference when trying to get the crust nice and crisp.

Divide the dough in half for two pizzas. Stretch and roll the dough out on a floured surface to make 8-inch rounds. I like thin-crusted pizza so the roundness isn’t as important to me as the thickness. The thinner the pizza, the faster and crisper they cook.

Brush each pizza round with Pesto and a layer of mozzarella, Fontina, tomatoes, prosciutto, goat cheese, oregano, thyme and Parmesan cheese.

Bake the pies until the crusts are lightly browned. In the oven this will take about 10 to 12 minutes. In our wood burning oven, about 4 minutes.

When the pie is done, remove it from the oven and place it onto a large cutting board or pizza pan and cut into slices with a pizza cutter. Delicious!!!