The Reptile King's Latest News

Spider Fun

2010-07-30T14:56:00.002-04:00

The Spider's Silk: As part of the arachnid class spiders have two main body segments: the cephalothorax and abdomen. Their ability to produce silk separates spiders from other arachnids. The silk is used to capture prey in elaborately woven webs, to wrap and protect eggs, and as a bungee-like cord to move from place to place.

Toxin Toolkit: Almost all spiders have venom-injecting fangs, which they use to kill their prey. Some spiders inject a neurotoxin, which affects the victim's nervous system, typically resulting in paralysis. Others inject a cytotoxin, which damages the victim's cellular tissue.

An Extra Set of Hands: Two leglike pedipalps located near the spider's head are used in a variety of ways. One of the most important is bringing food to the mouth. In adult males, the ends of the pedipalps are modified and used for the transfer of sperm during mating. Spiders also use their pedipalps for sensing their environment; sensitive hairs pick up vibrations, air currents and even scent.

Spiders, Spiders Everywhere: At least 40,000 species of spider have been described by science, but this number only accounts for one-third to one-fifth of all spider species on earth. Spiders can be found in just about every terrestrial habitat and some water ones as well, from tropical rain forests, woodlands, caves and gardens to your home.

Sacrificial Males: A female spider will often kill the male shortly after mating. By feeding the female, who will ultimately lay and tend the resulting fertilized eggs, the male ensures that his genes will carry on. In lieu of self-sacrifice, some male spiders will offer a fly or other meal to the female before mating.

Super-Sized Spider: The Goliath birdeater tarantula, the world's largest spider, can grow to the size of a dinner plate. As its name suggests, it's been known to prey on birds.

Strong Like Steel: The silk of the orb weaver spiders rivals the tensile strength of high-grade steel, but is much less dense. It would make a great substitute for Kevlar in bullet-proof vests — if only spiders could produced enough silk.

The Eyes Have It: To match their eight legs, most spiders have eight eyes that are arranged in a variety of ways depending on the species. Some spiders have six, four, two or even — in the case of cave-dwelling species — no eyes.

For more Invertebrates and supplies check out our website http://www.thereptileking.com

Monitor Lizards

2010-05-22T23:55:00.004-04:00

Pic: Nile Monitor

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS:

Monitors belong to the family Varanidae. Some are small reptiles of less than a foot in length, while the Komodo dragon, the largest living lizard, grows to 364 lb. All monitors are tropical reptiles. They are active lizards, that may be very hostile, lashing out with their tails upon the slightest provocation. Even a small monitor can produce a stinging lash with its tail.

The claws of monitors are long and sharp. The jaws are very strong. Once they bite something it is very difficult to get them to let go.

Monitors are carnivorous and will devour anything they are capable of dismembering and gulping down. Species which live in or near water will readily eat fish.

Monitors do not divest themselves of their tails, like some other lizards. Once lost, the tail of a monitor does not grow back.

The Savanna monitor, Varanus exanthematicus, is also known as the Cape monitor. It grows to 5 feet. Its body is olive brown, mostly unmarked. A few have cross bands on the body; pale spots ringed in dark brown to black forming the cross bands.

They are found in western and central Africa in open forest and rocky savannas, in hot, arid areas. They bask frequently and are agile both on land and in water.

The Nile monitor, Varanus niloticus, grows to 6 feet. It is dark brown-black with pale to yellow bands and spots forming broken cross bands on the body.

It is distributed in Africa except the northwest. It stays close to water, and can dive for up to one hour. It is very agile on land and in the water. It is diurnal.

BEHAVIOR:

Many species hold their heads erect on their long necks, which gives them the appearance of being alert. They intimidate predators by lashing out with their tails, inflating their throats, hissing loudly, turning sideways, and compressing their bodies.

They are mostly terrestrial, but many are agile climbers and good swimmers. The tail is somewhat compressed in tree dwellers, very compressed in semiaquatic monitors.

Monitors threaten by opening the mouth, inflating the neck and hissing. The ribs may spread, flattening the top of the body, or the body may just expand slightly. This makes the monitor look larger than it actually is. It often raises up on its hind legs just before attacking. The tail delivers a well-aimed blow.

DIET:

Monitors tend to swallow their prey whole, like snakes. Monitors are daytime lizards and most species actively search for food. Some species eat carrion, giant land snails, grasshoppers, beetles, whip scorpions, crocodile and birds; eggs, crabs, fish, other lizards, snakes, nestling birds, shrews and squirrels.

REPRODUCTION and GROWTH:

Combat between males is frequently observed during the breeding season in some species. Monitors lay 7 to 35 soft-shelled eggs, usually deposited in holes in riverbanks or in trees along water courses. The Nile monitor often lays its eggs in termite nests. There is little or no sexual dimorphism (difference in appearance).

Eggs are 2 inches long with leathery shells. Incubation is 8 to 10 weeks. The young use an egg tooth to emerge.

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Do I always have to feed just crickets and mealworms to my herps?

2010-03-26T15:55:00.003-04:00

Collecting Live Food for Reptiles and Amphibians: an Entomologist’s Technique

by Frank Indiviglio

Wild-caught insects and other invertebrates are valuable, and often essential, additions to the diets of many captive reptiles and amphibians. During the warmer months, I have utilized them for 50-100% of the diets of many animals in my own collection, and for those under my care in zoos.

Beating the Bushes for Insects

One of the simplest and most effective collecting techniques was developed by entomologists (insect scientists) who needed to sample large habitats quickly. Here it is: a white, un-patterned sheet is spread below a bush or tree, and the foliage is then beaten with a stick. That’s it!

An incredible assortment of caterpillars, beetles, ants, tree crickets, katydids, spiders and other tasty morsels will rain down upon the sheet, where they can be easily collected. The majority will be arboreal species – healthful additions to the diets of tree frogs, flying geckos, smooth green snakes and other tree-dwelling creatures, and to all other insectivorous herps.

Identifying Potentially Troublesome Species

Do not collect fireflies, “hairy” or "tent"caterpillars (please see photo), and brightly colored insects that you cannot identify (due to possible toxicity). Unless you are well-acquainted with local spiders, it is best to avoid them as well…harvestmen, or “daddy long-legs”, however, are harmless.

Use our stainless steel tongs to handle any specimens that may bite or sting. A Peterson or Audubon Society field guide will help you to learn about the innumerable interesting creatures that you will encounter.

A World of Possibilities

You’ll have quite a selection to choose from, wherever you live. Over 2,000 types of insects live right within New York City, and it is estimated that 30 million species inhabit the planet. A single tree in Panama has yielded 130 species of beetle, 100 of which were new to science!

Insect Traps and Canned Insects

Pitfall traps are another way of trapping insects, see article below. An alternative means of introducing variety to your pets’ diets is through the use of canned invertebrates .

Collecting Live Food for Amphibians and Reptiles: Pitfall Traps

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Prehistoric cave paintings show that the pitfall trap, a simple covered or uncovered hole designed to capture animals, came into being very early in our evolution as a species. Indeed, they are still used by hunters and field researchers today. Pitfall traps also provide pet keepers with a simple, effective means of collecting live food for reptiles, amphibians, tarantulas, scorpions, mantids and other terrarium animals.

Building and Baiting the Trap

To create a pitfall trap, simple bury a can or jar flush with the ground and cover it with a board that is slightly elevated by small stones. This will keep rain out while allowing invertebrates to enter.

An amazing assortment of creatures will simply stumble into such a trap, but you can increase its effectiveness by adding bait. A bit of ripe fruit, molasses, honey and some tropical fish flakes will lure all sorts of insects, sow bugs and other invertebrates (snails and slugs are especially fond of beer). Be sure to keep some dead leaves or paper towels in the trap as well, to provide places for your catch to hide and keep away from one another.

Boards or other cover spread about an area, which can be easily turned and checked, will also attract a variety of insects. Spraying the area with a hose during dry weather will attract increased numbers of invertebrates to these shelters.

Cautions

Always use caution when examining your catch, as potentially dangerous spiders, scorpions, hornets and other such creatures may be present. Have a good field guide on hand if you are unfamiliar with local species, and use feeding tongs to remove animals from the trap.

Native Beetles in the Terrarium

If your interests extend to native invertebrates, your trap will likely provide you with some pleasant surprises.

One of my favorite and rather frequent catches is the caterpillar hunter (Calosoma scrutator), a widespread beetle that feeds upon caterpillars and other soft-bodied insects (a relative, the forest caterpillar hunter, was imported to the USA from Europe in 1905 to battle gypsy moths).

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Ball Python Habitat

2010-03-24T08:54:00.006-04:00

by Dr.FS
Ball Pythons are great for new snake owners, as they are fairly easy to care for. However, though they are not difficult snakes to maintain, it is just as important to set up their habitat properly as it would be with any other reptile. They have unique housing requirements that are necessary to preserve their overall health and well-being. The following tips will help you to set up the best habitat possible for your Ball Python.

Fresh Air Screen Cover with Cover Clips
Dome light with ceramic heater and black or red reptile bulb
Fluorescent Strip Light with UV Bulb, on a Timer
For a more streamlined look, consider using a combination heat/light fixture like "The Slider" Reptile Hood or Zilla Combo Fixture.
Thermometers and Hygrometer
Artificial Plants for cover
Hide Box
Water Bowl
Climbing branches, like Bamboo Bars
Terrarium Carpet Liner or other safe substrate
Under Tank Heater (UTH)

Enclosure/Cage
The size of the terrarium will vary with the age of the snake. Young hatchlings will only need a 10 to 20 gallon terrarium. However, as your Ball Python ages and grows longer, a significantly larger terrarium will be necessary. Young adults need at least a 20 gallon terrarium, and full grown adults will need at least a 30 gallon terrarium. A good rule of thumb to follow is that the perimeter (two times the width plus two times the length) of the enclosure should be two times the length of your snake. Keep in mind that if you purchase a smaller terrarium when you have a younger snake, you will have to upgrade it later, possibly more than once.

Ball Pythons are excellent escape artists, so a tight fitting lid or door with a lock is an absolute necessity. It should be made of wire mesh to provide proper ventilation.

Appropriate substrates that you can use in the enclosure include cypress mulch, paper towels, terrarium carpet liners, and newspaper. Never use shavings. Be sure to keep some extra substrate around so you can switch it when it becomes soiled. Substrates like terrarium carpet liners can be cleaned and reused.

Landscaping and Cage Accessories
There are two main things that your Ball Python absolutely must have in his enclosure - a hide box and climbing branches. Because they are nocturnal, Ball Pythons will spend most of their days in the hide box, which can be a hollow log, a wide terra cotta flower pot turned upside down with the drain hole enlarged, a cardboard box, or any other item that provides darkness. The hide box must be big enough that your snake can fit his entire body in it, but not so big that it is significantly larger than your snake.

Climbing branches will provide both a hiding place and a basking area for your snake. Using artificial greenery to screen part of the branches from view will give your snake a place to curl up out of sight. Putting the branches in the basking area of the cage will allow him to climb closer to the heat source if he needs to raise his body temperature.

Other landscaping can include a few large rocks for your Ball Python to bask on and a small pool of water where he can drink from and submerge himself occasionally. A food dish is not required in the habitat as Ball Pythons should be placed in separate enclosures (such as a large plastic container or tub) for feeding.

Temperature
We recommend maintaining the temperature of the habitat at 77° to 85°F during the day, with a 90°F basking area, and at 69° to 75°F overnight. Use two thermometers to monitor temperature, one under the light in the basking area and one near the floor on the other side of the enclosure.

Primary heat sources are used to regulate the ambient temperature throughout the entire enclosure. In your Ball Python's habitat you can use under tank heaters and overhead ceramic heaters. You can also use infrared heat bulbs or room heaters to maintain the terrarium temperature at night.

Secondary heat sources are used to create hot spots in the cage, such as the basking area, and for this, you should use a 75 watt or lower incandescent light bulbs with a reflector. These should only be placed at the end of the enclosure used for the basking area.

Avoid using heat rocks as a heat source, as they will burn your Ball Python when he rubs against or touches them.

Light
Ball Pythons require a basic 12 hour light / 12 hour dark photo period. "Daylight" periods should be increased to 14 hours in the summer and decreased to 12 hours in the winter. Changes between seasons should be made gradually to mimic the natural shortening and lengthening of the days.

Full spectrum lighting isn't required, but it is recommended as it is beneficial for proper vitamin and mineral metabolism. Use daylight or full spectrum with low wattage during the day. No nighttime lights are necessary, though, as mentioned above, you can use an infrared heat bulb if necessary.

All lights should be outside the enclosure and screened in to prevent injury.

Humidity
Ball Pythons naturally live in a climate with fairly low humidity, so the humidity in their enclosure should be no more than 50% to 60%. When your snake is shedding, you may need to increase the humidity to 65%, or you can mist the enclosure daily.

Water
Ball Pythons should always have access to a pool of water for drinking and submersing themselves. The pool should be a heavy container your snake cannot knock over, and the water will need to be changed daily, as Ball Pythons often defecate in their water. The water temperature should be approximately 72° to 79°F, and any water added to the pool should be the same temperature.

Cleaning
A proper cleaning schedule is important to maintain your Ball Python's health. Every day you should replace soiled substrate and change the water. You will also need to clean and disinfect the entire enclosure as needed, usually about once every one to two weeks. To do this, you can use a 5% bleach solution with water. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly after cleaning it, and always wash your hands after handling your snake or anything in the enclosure.

Housing More Than One Ball Python
If you have the room, you can house two Ball Pythons together. You will need a significantly bigger enclosure as well as more hide spots throughout it. The two Ball Pythons must be approximately the same size when housed together, and the new one must be quarantined until you are sure that he or she is not carrying any diseases. You will most likely have to feed them in two separate enclosures, and there is always a chance that they will not eat if housed together, so be sure to have an extra enclosure handy in case you need to house them separately.

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Russian Tortoise Care

2010-03-21T11:51:00.003-04:00

Russian Tortoises are native to dry, arid regions, and there are a number of habitat requirements that are necessary to create a safe and healthy environment for them. The following tips will help you to put together and maintain the right habitat for your Russian Tortoise.

Enclosure
In many areas of the country, Russian Tortoises can be kept outside for some or all of the year, while in other, cooler areas, they can only be kept outside during warmer months. Therefore, we will discuss how to set up both indoor and outdoor enclosures in this article.

Indoor enclosures are necessary for hatchlings and juvenile Russian Tortoises as well as in areas where it is too cold outside for them to be kept year round. Terrariums can be made from glass or plastic. Glass can also make it difficult to maintain the proper humidity. Additionally, Russian Tortoises will often try to walk through glass enclosures because they don't understand that they can't get out. If you do use a glass terrarium, be sure to use paint or tape around the bottom 5" to 6" of the enclosure.

The size of the terrarium should be proportional to the size of the tortoise. A good rule to go by is that it should be 10 times as long as the tortoise's length, 5 times as wide as the tortoise's width, and 3 times as high as the tortoise's length. The minimum size should be 2 feet by 4 feet. A 50 gallon terrarium or clear plastic storage container works well. If you start out with a smaller enclosure, be prepared to upgrade to a larger one as your tortoise grows.

Outdoor enclosures will also need to be large, and you can put your tortoise in it as long as the temperature is 40° F or higher. The enclosure should be at least 6 feet by 10 feet for one to six tortoises, and it must be secure. Because Russian Tortoises can dig tunnels, the walls should extend at least 8" to 10" underground. They are also good climbers, so the sides of the enclosure must be at least 16" high. An outdoor enclosure should be situated in an area where it will get plenty of sun, is generally dry, and has good drainage for when it does rain.

Even if you house your Russian Tortoise inside for most of the year, you should still set up an outdoor pen. Just three hours outside each day during warmer months can have significant health benefits.

Substrate can be a mixture of sand and garden soil, coconut fiber, or peat moss, and it should be deep enough that your tortoise can burrow into it. Although Russian Tortoises live in arid regions, they commonly burrow, which provides and environment that is more humid. Be sure to prevent substrate from completely drying out and avoid using dusty substrates.

Landscaping & Cage Accessories
There are a number of items that your tortoise will need in its enclosure. Place a shallow water dish in one end for your tortoise to soak in. This should be deep enough that it can wet a good portion of its shell, but not so deep that it can drown. A hide box should be located in the cool end, at the opposite end of the enclosure from the basking area. The hide box should be sturdy, as Russian Tortoises are unintentionally destructive to flimsy decorations and shelters. Half logs or wooden boxes work well.

Other items that can be placed in the enclosure include rocks, logs, and tunnels that your tortoise can climb on, in, and under, but take care not to clutter the terrarium. Russian Tortoises need plenty of room to move around.

Temperature
The basking area should be the warmest spot in the cage with a temperature of approximately 90° to 95° F. The temperature gradients throughout the cage should go from the warmest spot of the basking area to the low 70s at the opposite end. At night, the temperatures should lower into the 60s. Daytime and nighttime temperatures should be monitored with a thermometer.

Primary heat sources, which are sources used to maintain the ambient temperature in the terrarium, can include ceramic emitters and under tank heaters. Do not use heat rocks in the enclosure. Secondary heat sources, or heat sources used to create warmer areas such as the basking area, can include incandescent heat lamps or infrared bulbs. The combination of heat sources you choose to use depends on the size and type of the enclosure and the overall temperatures in your home.

Light
Tortoises need approximately 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness. You must use a Full spectrum light with UVB over your tortoise's terrarium for 12 to 14 hours (depending on the season) every day. UVB light encourages proper Vitamin D3 synthesis, and it helps with proper skeletal and shell development.

Additional light should come from a 100watt incandescent spot light over the basking area. This should be turned off at night. You can use red bulbs at night, but it is not necessary.

Humidity
Proper humidity levels are very important to the overall health of your Russian Tortoise. Because they are native to an arid climate, they need relatively low humidity, so levels should be no higher than 60%.

You may have heard that humidity isn't that important because Russian Tortoises are very adaptable. Though some may be able to deal with a slightly higher humidity, 60% is the best level for optimum health. Russian Tortoises have little tolerance for cold, wet, or humid conditions, and constant exposure to those types of environments can cause a number of health issues, including pneumonia, shell rot, and eye infections. Just as excess humidity can cause problems, low humidity can cause severe medical problems. Therefore, it is best to keep humidity levels around 60% and monitor them with a hygrometer.

Cleaning
Change the water in the shallow dish and spot clean the enclosure daily. A full cleaning should be done with a 5% bleach solution regularly, no less than once every couple weeks. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly before placing the substrate back in the terrarium so all traces of bleach are removed. Always wash your hands thoroughly after cleaning your tortoise's enclosure.

Housing More than One Russian Tortoise
Russian Tortoises cannot be housed with other species, as they will be aggressive towards them. They are also aggressive to their own species, and more than one male should never be kept in the same terrarium. If you are going to keep more than one Russian Tortoise, make sure that there is only one male per enclosure.

Purchase or set up a very large habitat to give all the tortoises plenty of room, and use sight-line breaks to provide them with hiding places and a sense of isolation. Sight-line breaks can include plants, piles of rocks, and wooden shelters like hide boxes. Improperly setup habitats for multiple Russian Tortoises can result in the male damaging the females.

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TheReptileKing.com Grand Opening!

2010-03-01T00:58:00.002-05:00

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Why a Pet Lizard Needs UVB Lighting

2010-02-22T19:02:00.004-05:00

Lizard Lights - Why a Pet Lizard Needs UVB Lighting

by Brandon Cornett

If you plan to keep a lizard as a pet, you need to provide the proper lighting. This means using a special light that emits UVB rays. In this article, we will talk about these so-called lizard lights and why they are important.

Each year, reptile veterinarians across the country treat thousands of lizards for metabolic bone disorder (MBD). This is when the animal's bones become soft to the point of deformity. This condition results from a lack of vitamin D synthesis within the lizard's body. It occurs in many different types of lizard, but is most common in green iguanas and various chameleon species (species that are popular in the pet trade).

The Basics of UVB and Lizard Health

Here's what you, as a reptile keeper, should know about lizard lights and UVB exposure:

In the wild, lizards spend a lot of their time basking in the sun.
The sun emits different kinds of rays, including UVB rays.
Lizards (and other types of reptiles) benefit from the UVB rays of the sun. These rays help them produce vitamin D within their bodies.
Vitamin D is essential for proper bone density and development.
When a lizard is unable to synthesize vitamin D, its bones will not develop properly.
So, by extension, a lizard that lacks sufficient UVB exposure will suffer from bone-develop problems. Metabolic bone disorder is the most common of these problems.
Lizards that are kept as pets usually do not get enough natural sun exposure, if any.
If your lizard is not exposed to the sun on a daily basis, you must provide an alternate source of UVB light for the animal. There are many excellent products on the market today that can help you accomplish this.

Sadly, many people who keep lizards as pets do not understand the connection between UVB light rays, vitamin D, and bone development. This is why metabolic bone disorder (MBD) is the number-one ailment in lizards, as reported by veterinarians.

Lizard Lights to the Rescue

When I refer to lizard lights in this article, I'm talking about fluorescent bulbs that are designed specifically for lizards and other reptiles with high UV requirements. You can buy these bulbs in the tube form you're probably familiar with, or as spiral-shaped compact fluorescent lights (CFL). The important thing is that you get a light that provides enough UVB for the lizard species you are keeping.

How much UVB is enough? Zoo Med Laboratories (a company that sells lizard lights and other reptile products) has conducted some extensive research over the last few years. Here is what they recommend:

Tropical lizards, such as chameleons and green iguanas, should be exposed to UVB levels of 13 to 30 W/cm² (microwatts per square centimeter). They should have access to such lighting for 10 - 12 hours a day.
Desert lizards such as bearded dragons will generally do well with the same level mentioned above, or slightly higher UVB levels.

Source: "Reptiles and UVB," Zoo Med Laboratories.

Most UVB lights that are sold today are clearly labeled with these specifications. So purchasing the right kind of bulb is pretty straightforward.

UVB light should be used in conjunction with proper heat levels. If you create a habitat for your lizard that offers proper temperature and UVB levels, you will have a healthier animal. It's that simple. Of course, you need to provide the right kind of diet for your lizard species as well, but that's another lesson entirely.

Exo Terra (Hagen USA) is another leading developer of reptile products including Lizard lights, if you would like to download their free lighting Guide, Click Here!

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Leopard Gecko Habitat Setup

2010-02-19T12:45:00.005-05:00

Leopard Gecko Habitat
by DFS
Though Leopard Geckos are some of the easiest lizards to care for, it is still very important that you set up their habitat properly. They have unique housing requirements that must be met if you want to maintain their overall health and well-being. The following tips will help you provide your Leopard Gecko with a healthy, safe, and enjoyable home.

Dome lamp and black or red reptile bulb or ceramic heater
Mesh or screen top
Thermometers and a hygrometer
Artificial plants
Moist hide box, filled with damp moss or Eco-Earth
Dishes for water, mealworms, and calcium powder
Cage Carpet or another gecko-safe substrate
Under Tank Heater (UTH) if needed to maintain proper temperature
Shelter or hideaway (at least one per gecko)

Enclosure/Cage
The best terrariums for Leopard Geckos are those that are long and shallow. The minimum size for one Leopard Gecko is 10 gallons, and you will need to increase the size of the terrarium if you have multiple lizards. A pair will need a 15-gallon tank, and three or four lizards will need at least a 20-gallon tank.

Wire cages are not acceptable. Leopard Geckos must be housed in glass terrariums for their safety and to prevent them from escaping. Unlike some other geckos, Leopard Geckos cannot climb glass very well. The terrarium should have a wire mesh lid that provides proper ventilation and allows light through.

The substrate that you use should be non-abrasive and non-irritating to your Leopard Gecko's sensitive skin. It should be something that you can easily clean and replace, and it should not create any type of dust. Improper use of substrate can result in infection, respiratory problems, and toxic reactions. Substrates to avoid include cedar, pine, hardwood chips, gravel, cat litter, sawdust, and corncob bedding. Safe substrate that you can use in your Leopard Gecko's enclosure includes artificial turf, paper toweling, and newspaper. Many people use sand as well, but there have been some instances of problems, including ingestion of the sand and sand in stools. If you are using sand and you see any problems developing, switch substrates immediately.

Landscaping, Furniture, and Plants
The items that you put in your Leopard Gecko's cage will help to make his environment as natural as possible, and the more elaborate the setup, the more you will encourage your gecko's natural behaviors. Things like rocks and logs will create a natural living space as well as provide him with places to climb and exercise. Live or artificial plants can be used to provide more hiding areas and a more natural feel, but they are not necessary. If you wish to use a live plant, choose carefully - by researching the plant or consulting a veterinarian - as some plants can be toxic to reptiles.

Every Leopard Gecko enclosure needs areas for three things: Hiding, activity, and basking. Hiding areas consist of commercial hide boxes, overlapping rocks, inverted clay pots and sections of curved bark, and any other shelter that supplies your gecko with a place to sleep and conceal himself. There should be at least two hiding areas, and the more geckos you house in one terrarium, the more hiding spots you will need.

Activity areas are open areas where your gecko can climb, exercise, or just move around. You can place smooth rocks and wood in these areas to facilitate climbing.

Basking areas can be a flat, smooth rock or wood under a light, and there should be at least one spot per gecko. The more geckos you have, the more basking spots you will need.

When creating the above areas, there are certain materials that you should not use. Avoid using sharp or abrasive rocks, as they can injure your Leopard Gecko's skin if he rubs against it during shedding. Cedar and other resinous woods should also be avoided, as they are toxic to Leopard Geckos.

Temperature
Leopard Geckos are "ectothermic," meaning that they cannot produce their own body heat, so they need supplemental heat sources. Their tank should be approximately 80° to 85°F during the day, and the basking area should be about 88°-90°F. Nighttime temperature should be in the 70s. To ensure that your gecko's enclosure is the proper temperature, use a thermometer.

However, the area outside of the basking spot should not be a uniform temperature. Leopard Geckos practice "thermoregulation," meaning that they will move into hotter or cooler areas to raise or lower their body temperature as needed. The terrarium should consist of several different temperature gradients, and there should be at least one hide in each gradient.

Primary heat sources are used to maintain the overall temperature throughout the cage, and they can include heat tapes, under tank heaters, and overhead heat sources.

Secondary heat sources are used to create hot spots (such as basking areas) within the cage, and they can include red or black basking lights.

Light
It is important to recreate natural light cycles when setting up your Leopard Gecko's habitat. During the summer, they should have approximately 14 hours of light following by 10 hours of darkness. During the winter, they need shorter daytime periods of about 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness. To achieve the desired photoperiods, we recommend that you use automatic timers. Changes between summer and winter photoperiods should be made gradually.

Lights that you can use include black heat lamps (day and night) and red lamps (day and night). Since Leopard Geckos are nocturnal and dislike bright light, the use of UV bulbs is not necessary. In fact, if exposed to bright white light, the Leopard Gecko may become stressed. Make sure there are plenty of areas in the terrarium throughout the various temperature gradients where your gecko can hide and get out of the light. All light bulbs should be placed outside the terrarium above the lid.

Humidity
Leopard Geckos have very specific humidity requirements to encourage proper shedding cycles and prevent dehydration. A high humidity level can leave your gecko more susceptible to infections. The ideal humidity level should be 40% or lower, and you should monitor it using a hygrometer. Leopard Geckos require "humidified shelters" or a "moist box" to help facilitate shedding. These moist hideaways can be created by lining a shelter or box with moist substrate, such as sphagnum moss, peat moss, damp soil or other products.

Cleaning
Keeping your Leopard Gecko's habitat clean is an important part of maintaining a healthy habitat. Daily chores include:

Remove waste, debris, dead feeder insects, and shed skin.
Remove and clean any objects that have fecal matter on them.
Clean and disinfect water bowls.
Remove and replace soiled substrate.

Weekly chores include:

Clean and disinfect enclosure thoroughly.
Clean and disinfect interior items such as decorations, feeding and watering items, and any other items in the terrarium.
Replace soiled substrate.

Avoid using cleaners that contain phenols or pine scents, as these are toxic to your gecko. If you are unsure of what products to use or how to use them, consult your veterinarian.

Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal, the best time to clean the enclosure is at dusk or during the early morning hours. This will prevent you from disturbing their natural sleep cycles and causing unnecessary stress.

Water
Leopard Geckos need constant access to clean water. Provide water in a flat, shallow bowl, and change it daily. If there is fecal matter or drowned feeder insects in the water, change it immediately. Avoid using deep bowls, as this will limit your gecko's access to his water as well as present a drowning hazard to both your gecko and the feeder insects you give him.

Housing Multiple Leopard Geckos
Male Leopard Geckos are instinctually very territorial, so you can only have one male per enclosure. Females can be territorial as well, but it isn't as common as in males. If you plan to house multiple Leopard Geckos, be sure to purchase multiple females or multiple females and one male. Always watch them for signs of territoriality and aggression, and set up the habitat in such a way that it provides multiple hiding and activity areas. Because housing multiple geckos requires more space, we recommend a terrarium no smaller than 20 gallons for three or more geckos.

For a complete selection of Leopard gecko Supplies check out our website at http://www.thereptileking.com, don't forget to enter to win an Exo Terra Cameroon habitat kit and live reptile!

Enter to win an Exo Terra Habitat and Live reptile!

2010-02-11T21:23:00.004-05:00

ONE GRAND PRIZE winner will receive An Exo Terra Cameroon Habitat w/reptile
TWO Second Place winners will receive $50.00 in store credit to TheReptileKing.com
THREE Third Place winners will receive an Exo Terra Vivicator electronic food dish

Its Free to enter! Stop on over and sign up CLICK HERE!

CARING FOR YOUR WATER DRAGON

2010-02-03T16:59:00.006-05:00

CARING FOR YOUR WATER DRAGON

The water dragon is a diurnal, semi-aquatic, arboreal, tropical lizard of Asia and Australia. If you're considering buying a water dragon, here are some facts about this lizard.

Appearance

The Asian water dragon is mainly green, with darker areas on the head and joints. The chin and throat are white to light yellow, and the underside is white to pale green. Water dragons do not have a dewlap, but possess large skin folds. A prominent dorsal crest runs from the neck to the tail. Juveniles are typically diagonally banded with 3 to 5 light stripes, usually pale blue to green in color, that disappear with age.

The eastern water dragon, from Australia, resembles the Asian water dragon in size and shape but is brown, with a gray to gray-brown underside. Broad black and narrow white crossbars run through the back and the tail of the animal.
A prominent dark horizontal stripe may be visible on each side of the head, starting from the eye toward the neck. Like the Asian species, a dorsal crest runs from the head to the tail.

Size and Longevity

Most adults usually reach 16 inches in length – the tail counting for half to two-thirds of the length - but some can reach up to a meter in length. They can live up to 11 years.

Behavior

Water dragons are less aggressive and more placid than green iguanas, although they are prone to intense spurts of speed. They also are smaller and more manageable than green iguanas, but like most diurnal lizards they require a spacious vivarium with high quality lighting and heating. All lizards can excrete salmonella, so it's important to be careful about personal hygiene and supervise children around these creatures.

This species is active but usually timid. They may attempt to flee when disturbed. Water dragons can sometimes be intolerant to other animals, so it's recommended to keep either a pair (male and female) or a maximum of a male and two females, together in a single vivarium.

Housing and Environment

In the wild, water dragons live in humid, sub-tropical to tropical forests, wooded streams and rocky littoral.

One to two water dragons can be kept in a 5 1/2-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot vivarium, but larger enclosures permit landscaping, a bigger water pool and overall better aesthetics of the setup. The vivarium should be high enough to install branches so the lizard can bask under a heat lamp or spotlight during the day.

These lizards are semi-aquatic and need a large water area in their enclosure, covering preferably at least a third of the floor. The water should be maintained at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. In most cases general vivarium heating will be sufficient, but an aquarium heater or a heat mat placed under the water container, can be used. The pool of water also will provide high humidity, which is essential for these lizards.

For hygienic reasons, line the floor with newspaper, granulated bark, artificial turf or alfalfa pellets. Replace the floor covering daily or weekly, depending on contamination. In addition to the branches, provide boxes, pieces of bark or hollow tree parts for hideouts.

Water dragons will try to escape from an unsuitable environment or evade dominant cage-mates. They do not seem to perceive glass, screen, or other clear material as a barrier and might hurt their nose by attempting to escape through these surfaces. Creating a visual barrier – putting tape across the glass – might help them see these obstacles and avoid injury.

Diet

Water dragons are mainly carnivorous, feeding on a variety of invertebrates, small mammals, birds, lizards, frogs, and on rare occasions, fruits and plant matter. In captivity they should be fed insects – crickets, locusts and wax worms – and the occasional pinky mice.

All insects should be nutrient "gut loaded" by feeding a commercial insect food or a mix of crushed fish pellets and calcium supplement, with a slice of potato for moisture. In addition, insects should be thoroughly dusted with a high calcium supplement immediately prior to feeding. It is wise to vary the food items to avoid potential nutrient excesses or deficiencies and multivitamins can be added to the dusting formula once or twice a week.

Juveniles should be fed the same diet as the adults, making sure smaller food items are used. As they grow they may accept some fruits, as well as pink mice. Juveniles should be fed every day, while adults can be fed every other day or two to three times a week.

Temperature and Humidity

Heat should be provided by a background heater (tubular heater, infrared through heaters, heat mats, etc.) and a radiant daytime heater (infrared ceramic bulbs, incandescent spotlights). These should be screened in order to prevent any contact burns with the water dragon.

The diurnal temperature variation is vital for proper digestion and assimilation of food and general health. A daytime temperature gradient of 77 to 86 F, with a basking area of 90 to 95 F, should be lowered to 72 to 77 F at night. Use a digital in/out thermometer with maximum/minimum memory to record the day and night thermal gradients within the vivarium.

Humidity of 80 to 100 percent is required for at least part of the day. If the large water area does not create enough humidity in the vivarium, regular spraying can help. Never reduce ventilation to increase humidity.

Lighting

The recommended photoperiod is 12 to 14 hours of light and 10 to 12 hours of darkness. Ideally, provide access to unfiltered sunlight, but if this is not possible, provide a full spectrum light source, which must be placed within 12 inches of the basking sites and replaced every six months for juveniles or 12 months for adults.

Sexing

Males are larger than the females, and their dorsal crest is more developed. Although both sexes possess pre-femoral pores, they are much more developed in the mature male. A hemipenal bulge also can be seen at the base of the tail in mature males.

Breeding

Sexual maturitycan be reached at one year of age. Breeding usually occurs during the winter and early spring. Males in breeding condition will become brightly colored from golden-yellow to deep orange on the chin, chest and side of the head. The female water dragon can lay up to five clutches of eggs in one season, each clutch containing 10 to 15 eggs.

An egg-laying container should be placed in a remote area of the vivarium for egg laying. The eggs are best incubated on damp vermiculite at 82 to 86 F and the babies should hatch between 60 and 101 days. Neonates measure around 6 inches in length at birth. Their care is similar to the adults. They should be raised in groups and fed on insects dusted with mineral supplements and given access to unfiltered sunlight or broad-spectrum, artificial lighting.

Visit The Reptile King for all your water dragon supplies!

Exo Terra Habitat Kit Cameroon Available Now!

2010-01-12T19:03:00.005-05:00

Explore the rain forests of Cameroon with Exo Terra. During these Exo Terra expeditions, three new reptile species have been discovered !

The Exo Terra Cameroon Rainforest Habitat Kit is the ideal set-up for the beginner herpetoculturist! The kit comes with all of the components necessary to give your terrarium hobby a successful start - including the Exo Terra Glass Terrarium, designed by European herpetologists.
An instruction manual is included to guide you through the process of installation, decoration and maintenance of the Exo Terra Cameroon Rainforest Terrarium Kit.

Ideal for: Small species of snakes, frogs, lizards and geckos.

Consult your retailer for advice on the care of your chosen species and their specific requirements for additional equipment, such as: heat source; bulb type; food & supplements.

Choosing the right bulb

Many reptiles have different requirements when it comes to lighting. As this habitat is recommended for various reptile species, please use the table below as a guide to help you select the correct bulb.

Repti Glo 2.0

This bulb is suitable for snakes, all amphibians (frogs, toads and salamanders) and nocturnal animals.

Repti Glo 5.0

This bulb is suitable for all diurnal tropical species except snakes.

Repti Glo 10.0

This bulb is suitable for all diurnal desert species except snakes.

Habitat Kit Cameroon 2010
PT2658	45 x 45 x 60 cm	18" x 18" x 24"

PT2658 Habitat Kit Cameroon 2010
Cameroon Rainforest starter Kit
Exo Terra Glass Terrarium - Water Dish Medium - Hygrometer - Thermometer - Cameroon Background - Standing Plant Spider Orchid - Jungle Vine Small and Large - Jungle Plant Amapallo - Jungle Fern Large - Plantation Soil - Compact Top - Terrarium Canopy - Exo Terra Catalogue - Booklet - Expedition Poster

Be the first to own one of these beautiful terrariums, we have them! Click Here

Burmese Pythons

2010-01-07T01:56:00.003-05:00

BURMESE PYTHONS (Albino Burmese Python shown in pic)

Burmese Pythons are light-colored snakes with many brown blotches bordered in black down the back. The perceived attractiveness of their skin pattern contributes to their popularity with both reptile keepers and the leather industry. The pattern is similar in color, but different in actual pattern to the African Rock Python (Python sebae), sometimes resulting in confusion of the two species outside of their natural habitats.

In the wild, Burmese pythons grow to 3.7 meters (12 ft) on average,while specimens of more than 4.5 meters (15 ft) are uncommon.Individuals over 5 meters (16 ft) – like a specimen form Cooch Behar with 5.8 meters (19 ft) and 91 kilograms (201 lb)are very rare.There are reports of snakes more than 6 meters (20 ft) long, but those are often result of confusion between Burmese Pythons and Reticulated Pythons, stretched skins, or simple exaggeration. There are also dwarf forms on Java, Bali and Sulawesi. At Bali they reach an average length of 2 meters (6.6 ft) and on Sulawesi they achieve a maximum of 2.5 meters (8.2 ft).

Geographic Range and Habitat

The Burmese Python is found throughout Southern- and Southeast Asia including Eastern India, Nepal, Western Bhutan, Southeast Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Northern continental Malaysia, Southern China and in Indonesia on Java, Southern Sulawesi, Bali and Sumbawa.This python is an excellent swimmer and needs a permanent source of water. It can be found in grasslands, marshes, swamps, rocky foothills, woodlands, river valleys, and jungles with open clearings. They are good climbers and have prehensile tails.
Burmese Pythons as an invasive species

The captive breeding of Burmese Pythons in the Americas has led to some rather serious problems. People who grow tired of their pythons, or whose pythons have grown too large to be kept in their houses, have been known to release their pets into the wild rather than have them re-homed. This has been particularly problematic in Florida, where a large number of pythons have made their way to the Everglades.They have thrived there, begun to reproduce prolifically, and become an invasive species. Over 230 (National Geographic - October 28, 2005) have been captured in the Everglades where they are competing with alligators as the dominant predator. In recent years this competition has resulted in what officials describe as a draw.Since they have been known to eat endangered birds and alligators, these snakes present a new danger to an already fragile ecosystem. In February 2008, USGS scientists published a projected range map for the US, based on average climate data of the snake's home range and Global warming projections, which predicted that these snakes could eventually migrate to and flourish in as much as a third of the continental United States by the end of the 21st century. However, a subsequent study produced a map incorporating both climatic extremes and averages, which showed the Burmese python's range to be limited to Southern Florida.

Behaviour

Burmese Pythons are mainly nocturnal rain forest dwellers.When younger they are equally at home on the ground and in trees, but as they gain girth they tend to restrict most of their movements to the ground. They are also excellent swimmers, being able to stay submerged for up to half an hour. Burmese Pythons spend the majority of their time hidden in the underbrush. In the northern parts of its range it may brumate for some months during the cold season in a hollow tree, a hole in the riverbank or under rocks. Brumation is biologically distinct from hibernation. While the behavior has similar benefits, specifically to endure the winter without moving, it also involves preparation of both male and female reproductive organs for the upcoming breeding season.

Burmese Pythons breed in the early spring, with females laying clutches which average 12–36 eggs in March or April. She will remain with the eggs until they hatch, wrapping around them and twitching her muscles in such a way as to raise the ambient temperature around the eggs by several degrees. Once the hatch-lings use their egg tooth to cut their way out of their eggs, there is no further maternal care. The newly hatched will often remain inside their egg until they are ready to complete their first shedding of skin, after which they hunt for their first meal.

Diet

Like all snakes, Burmese Pythons are carnivorous. Their diet consists primarily of appropriately sized birds and mammals. The snake uses its sharp rearward-pointing teeth to seize its prey, then wraps its body around the prey at the same time contracting its muscles, killing the prey by constriction. They are often found near human habitations due to the presence of rats, mice and other vermin as a food source. However, their equal affinity for domesticated birds and mammals means that they are often treated as a pest. In captivity their diet consists primarily of commercially available, appropriately sized rats, and moving up to larger items such as rabbits and poultry as they grow. Exceptionally large pythons may even require larger food items such as pigs or goats, and are known to have attacked alligators in Florida, where it is an invasive species.

Digestion

The digestive response of Burmese Pythons to such large prey has made them a model species for digestive physiology. A fasting python will have a reduced stomach volume and acidity, reduced intestinal mass and a 'normal' heart volume. After ingesting prey, the entire digestive system undergoes a massive remodeling, with rapid hypertrophy of the intestines, production of stomach acid, and a 40% increase in mass of the ventricles of the heart in order to fuel the digestive process.

Conservation

Wild populations are considered to be "threatened" and are listed on Appendix II of CITES. All the giant pythons (including the Indian Python, the African Rock Python, and the Reticulated Python) have historically been slaughtered to supply the world leather market, as well as for folk medicines, and captured for the pet trade. Some are also killed for food, particularly in China.

In Hong Kong, it is a protected species under Wild Animals Protection Ordinance Cap 170.

In Captivity

Burmese Pythons are often sold as pets, and are made popular by their attractive color and apparently easy-going nature. However, these animals have a rapid growth rate, and will often exceed 2.1 meters (7 feet) in length in a year if cared for and fed properly. By age 4, they will have reached their adult size, though they continue growing very slowly throughout their lives, which may exceed 20 years.

While this species has a reputation for docility, they are very powerful animals, capable of inflicting severe bites or even killing a keeper by constriction. They also consume large amounts of food, and due to their size, require large, often custom-built, secure enclosures, which can be very expensive. As a result some are released to the wild by pet owners.

A secondary problem with feeding Burmese Pythons is that many owners believe if a snake acts hungry, that it should be fed. As Burmese Pythons are opportunistic feeders, they will eat almost any time food is offered, and often act hungry even when they have recently eaten. This often leads to overfeeding, and obesity related problems are common in captive Burmese Pythons.

Burmese Handling

Although pythons are typically afraid of people, due to their high stature (especially given that snakes are usually low to the ground), and will generally avoid people, special care is still required when handling them. A three meters long Burmese Python can easily kill a child and a five meters long (around 16.5 feet) Burmese Python is certainly capable of overpowering and killing a fully grown adult, so it is not advisable to handle such a large snake alone. If the snake does wrap around an individual, others should be present to unwind the snake, starting at the tail. Many reptile zoos demonstrate proper snake handling technique. Usually the demonstrator handles the head, while non-professionals can handle the rest of the snake's body. Snakes should be supported firmly but gently.

Variations

The Burmese Python is frequently captive bred for color, pattern, and more recently size. The albino form of the Burmese Python is especially popular and is the most widely available morph. They are white with patterns in butterscotch yellow and burnt orange. There are also "Labyrinth" specimens, which have maze like patterns, khaki colored "Green" Burmese Pythons, and "Granite" Burmese Pythons, which have many small angular spots. Breeders have recently begun working with an island lineage of Burmese Pythons. Early reports indicate that these "Dwarf" Burmese have a slightly different coloring and pattern than their mainland relatives and do not grow much over 2.1 meters (7 ft) long. The "Dwarf" Burmese were first captively reproduced by Beau Lewis of Arizona, USA. One of the most sought-after of these variations is the leucistic Burmese. This particular variety is very rare, and has only recently (2008/2009) been reproduced in captivity as the super form of the co-dominant hypomelanistic trait. This snake is entirely bright white with no pattern and black eyes, thus precluding it from being a true albino. The first Caramel Burmese Python was successfully hatched out on May 15, 2008 by Mark Andrews and Jason Hormann of Kansas City, KS. This snake has caramel colored pattern with milk chocolate eyes.

The Reptile King can ship live reptiles right to your door! come check out our vast selection. Click Here

Exo Terra Lighting

2009-12-28T13:08:00.001-05:00

What bulb do I use?

Which artificial light source is capable of providing visual light, UV light and infrared light (or heat)?

The only light source today that is capable of providing the three important aspects of light (UV, visual and infrared light) in a somewhat balanced way is a mercury vapor bulb. Unfortunately these bulbs are not suitable for the smaller terrariums because of their high wattage.

If heat is infrared light, how do I create heat gradients?

In heat you have conduction, convection and radiation. Heat gradients are automatically created when a light source is used as a heat source on top of the terrarium. The first energy to strike the ambient air and the objects therein is the radiation. The heated air will then result in convection whereas the heated objects will provide conduction of the heat. The nature of different matters (air, wood, glass, plants, sand, etc.) will result automatically in heat gradients. A well-decorated terrarium increases these heat gradients by preventing the radiation to reach the substrate or underlying dimensions.

It is said that nocturnal and carnivorous reptiles do not need Ultraviolet light, in which case is an incandescent light bulb sufficient?

Not necessarily. Incandescent bulbs are suitable light sources for nocturnal reptiles in some cases. However, we have to take into account that many nocturnal reptiles are exposed to direct or scattered sun light during the day. Some reptiles rest/sleep on tree trunks or outcrops during the day, some deliberately bask during daytime hours while feeding at night, and others start their activity before sunset. This means that some form of photosynthesis takes place with these species.
Also many carnivorous reptiles still need UV light for photosynthesis purposes, correct environment, food and signaling perception. Not all carnivorous prey is capable of supplying the necessary vitamin D3 levels. If the prey's liver is not consumed, vitamin D3 intake is inadequate.
We can thus state that many nocturnal and carnivorous still require balanced lighting systems and that several more factors, other than just day and night cycle or infrared exposure have to be taken into account.

What are the pros and cons of fluorescent lights?

Fluorescents are the most economical light source, both in energy consumption and price. They are capable of emitting high levels of UV combined with acceptable levels of visual light. The higher the amount of visual light the lower the UV emission and vice versa. A combination of two fluorescents (visual + UV) and a basking light (incandescent) is recommended since fluorescent lights fail to produce sufficient heat.
Compact fluorescents have the same spectrum characteristics and emission as linear fluorescents. Due to their compact size, and because they are self ballasted, they are often easier to install than linear bulbs that still require a ballast.

What are the pros and cons of Mercury vapor lights?

These bulbs have it all: UV, high visual light output and sufficient infrared radiation. However, the disadvantage is that they consume a lot of energy (100 watt and plus) in order to operate properly. The lower the wattage, the less stable the bulb is. They are thus only suitable for very big terrariums.

What are the pros and cons of Incandescent lights?

Incandescents are inexpensive but are not very energy efficient when it comes to visual light. They are excellent as an infrared source to increase the ambient air temperature or as basking light. This type of light source also fails to produce any UVB radiation.

What are the pros and cons of Metal halide?

Metal halides are one of the best possible light sources around, the drawback is that they are very expensive. They have a very high light output, are capable of producing sufficient UV levels, and have a high infrared radiation. The installation is very expensive since a ballast is needed plus a special fixture.
The new HCI (Osram) or CDM (Philips) fits any HQI (Metal halide) fixture but has a greater visual light production with the same energy consumption. The advantages are the same then as those of metal halide.

What are the pros and cons of Halogen lights?

Halogen lights are somewhat more energy efficient than regular incandescent lights since they produce more visual light.

How much Ultraviolet light do reptiles receive in nature?

Ultraviolet radiation is expressed in microwatt per square centimeter (mW/cm²) and varies tremendously from the poles (low) towards the equator (high). The amount of UVB radiation received on the equator on a clear day at noon is around 270 mW/cm². However, this high amount of radiation decreases as the day passes, in the same way that it had increased since sunrise and taking into consideration that not all days are clear. In the wild, basking activities of most reptiles are limited to the early morning and later afternoon. The rest of the day is spent in the shade, in burrows, crevices or other shaded places, or at various places in leafy bushes, shrubs or trees. In tropical forests, home to many types of reptiles and amphibians, only a little direct sun penetrates the forest canopy and underlying layers to reach the ground.

Can we create these conditions in a terrarium?

Yes, absolutely, but…
Many commercial reptile lights today exceed this 270 mW/cm² in an attempt to show the greatest UVB radiation. Some even exceed over 2000 mW/cm², which is absolutely dangerous! Especially if you know that the 270 value of the sun is only measured at high noon on a clear day while most light bulbs are on between 10 and 12 hours with constant values. Reptiles accumulate these UVB rays during the day (10 to 12 hours), so there is absolutely no need to even emit 270 mW/cm² continuously.

Conclusion: "More is not always better"!

What is the role of lighting in reptile keeping?

Light has several functions:

Indicating night/day cycle
Providing light to see properly
Environment perception (visual & UV)
Agonistic and signaling communication (visual & UV)
Physiological well-being (UVA)
Photosynthesis of pre-vitamin D3 (UVB)
Coloration is light intensity dependent
Thermo-regulation (infrared)

Is the importance of light often underestimated?

Yes, absolutely. Especially when it comes to intensity of both UV and visual light. Often though, the importance of high levels of UVB light is overestimated; "More is not always better". In lighting there are many aspects and it is important to offer a balanced lighting system. It has to cover the simple aspects from indicating day and night cycle to more complex issues like photosynthesis. Unfortunately consumers often only use incandescent lights, which in most cases are totally inadequate.

What is the relationship between reptiles and the sun?

The sun's energy ultimately drives all life processes on earth and reptiles are no exception. If we fail to provide the important life sustaining aspects of this energy in captive conditions we will fail to maintain thriving terrarium populations, not to mention reproduction.

With special thanks to Dr. Luc Lambrechts, Wilrijk (Belgium) for the veterinarian images

Click here to see a complete selection of Exo Terra bulbs and accessories

African Giant Black Millipede Quick Care

2009-12-16T09:05:00.004-05:00

African Giant Black Millipede
(Archispirostreptus gigas)
by Jon Fouskaris

African Giant Black Millipedes are beautiful, extremely docile, moisture-loving giants that make the perfect pet arthropod! These millipedes have the ability to curl themselves up into a ball if disturbed, and can secrete a defensive liquid that could be dangerous if put into the eyes or mouth. Make sure to wash your hands if exposed to the liquid. To find the number of legs on your millipede, count the body segments, multiply by 4, and subtract 10. Of course, many millipedes have missing legs, so the number will be general. African Giant Black Millipedes are some of the largest millipedes in the world, if not the largest. They can grow to be as thick around as your thumb. Many times these millipedes are found in pet shops where they are full of mites. A few mites on your millipede is generally harmless, but if there is a huge number of mites living on your millipede, it is suggested to get the mites off. To do this, take a cotton ball, dip it in rubbing alcohol or petroleum jelly, and wipe it over the mites. Rubbing alcohol and petroleum jelly does not seem to harm the millipede, as long as it does not penetrate the millipedes' breathing pores, on the side of their body. African Giant Black Millipedes should be the first millipede considered if you are a newcomer to the hobby.

Range	Tropical and sub-tropical western Africa.
Type	Terrestrial, but will burrow to some extent.
Diet	Babies and adults eat bananas, tomatoes, melons, romaine lettuce, apples, cucumbers, and other fruits and vegetables. Millipedes should have a supply of calcium added to their diet, like calcium powder, which can be purchased from most pet stores.
Full Grown Size	7.5 to 11 inches.
Growth	Slow speed.
Temperature	75 to 85� F.
Humidity	75 to 80%.
Temperament	Docile and calm.
Housing	Babies can live in a roomy clear plastic container with air holes. Adults can live in a 5 to 10-gallon tank, depending on the size of the millipede. Millipedes can live communally. The tank should be twice as long, and at least as wide as the individual, or the largest millipede in the tank. Floor space is more important than height.
Substrate	3 to 4 inches of peat moss and potting soil, kept moist.
Decor	No decorations are really needed.
Other Names	Giant Millipede, African Black Millipede, and Tanzanian Giant Black Millipede.

*Please note that ALL millipedes can secrete a liquid that can be dangerous to some people. Although most people are not affected by this species, some people may be allergic to the liquid, or just more sensitive, making it a dangerous situation, especially if put into the eyes or mouth. Affects of this millipedes' natural defenses may vary between people. All millipedes can secrete this liquid, so be careful, because you don't want to find out if you are allergic or more sensitive the HARD WAY!

Millipedes can no longer be imported to the untied states, local breeders will be your best bet if you would like to acquire one

WE SELL LIVE REPTILES,AMPHIBIANS, AND ARACHNIDS! CLICK HERE!

Gift Certificates Now Available Click Here!

2009-12-13T00:11:00.002-05:00

We now offer gift certificates for that hard to buy for reptile lover! Available in values from $5 to $500, good towards anything in our store, and they never expire!

Reptiles: PYTHONS

2009-12-07T09:50:00.007-05:00

Python quick facts:

Class: Reptilia (Reptiles)
Order: Squamata
Family: Boidae
Genus: 8
Species: 33
Size: longest—reticulated python Python reticulatus, up to 33 feet (10 meters); shortest—ant-hill python Antaresia perthensis, about 23 inches (60 centimeters)
Weight: heaviest—reticulated python, up to 250 pounds (113 kilograms)
Life span: up to 35 years
Number of eggs laid: 2 to 100, depending on species
Incubation: 40 to 100 days, depending on species
Size at hatching: 10 to 27 inches (25 to 70 centimeters)
Age of maturity: 2 to 8 years
Conservation status: woma Aspidites ramsayi and Indian rock python Python molurus molurus are endangered, most other pythons are becoming more rare due to the trade in snake skins and habitat destruction.

Fun facts

• Reticulated pythons have been seen swimming in the ocean, which is probably how they originally got to the islands in the Pacific Ocean where some of them live.
• Pythons have four rows of teeth in their upper jaw. They also have fangs, but they do not produce venom.
• Rock pythons Python molurus only need to eat an amount of food that equals their own weight in a year. It’s possible for them to do that in one meal!

Reptiles: Python

Range: Africa, Madagascar, Southeast Asia, and Australia
Habitat: rain forests, grasslands and savannas, woodlands, and swamps

Pythons, boas, and anacondas: what’s the difference?

Because reticulated pythons, boa constrictors, and anacondas are some of the biggest snakes in the world, many people get confused about which is which.

The first thing to note is that the anaconda is a species of boa, not a separate type of snake. That leaves two groups, the pythons and the boas. These snakes are both constrictors, killing their prey by wrapping around it and suffocating it. And they are both considered primitive snakes with two lungs (most snakes only have one) and the remnants of hind legs and pelvic bones. But they have differences, too.

Pythons have one more bone in their heads than boas do and some additional teeth. And pythons are mostly found in the Old World (Africa, Asia, Australia) while boas live in both the Old World and the New World (North, Central, and South America). But the biggest difference is that pythons lay eggs while boas give birth to live young.

Constrict, not crush

Pythons are constrictors. They grab their prey with their teeth, then quickly wrap coils of their bodies around the prey and squeeze. They don’t actually crush the prey and break its bones, though. Instead, they squeeze tightly so that the prey animal can’t breath and it suffocates. The snake then begins the leisurely process of unhinging its jaw and swallowing the prey whole, usually head first. This is accomplished with rhythmic muscular contractions that pull the prey down the snake’s throat and into its stomach. How does the snake breathes while its mouth is full? It has a special tube in the bottom of its mouth that stays open to one side to take in air.

Do pythons have predators?

Yes, they do. Small, young pythons may be attacked and eaten by a variety of birds, carnivorous mammals, large frogs, large insects and spiders, and even other snakes. But adult pythons are also at risk from birds of prey like eagles and even lions and leopards.

Feeling the heat

Like most snakes, pythons don’t chase after their prey. Instead they are ambush hunters. They use both sight and smell to locate prey. Pythons also have an additional advantage: most have special temperature-sensitive "pits,” or holes, along their jaws that can sense the heat of a nearby animal. This helps them find prey even in the dark or among dense foliage. Depending on the size of the snake, pythons may eat rodents, birds, lizards, and mammals like monkeys, pigs, or antelope. One rock python Python sebae was even found to have a small leopard in its stomach. At The reptile King, our pythons eat thawed rodents.

Watchful moms

Unlike their close relatives the boas, pythons lay eggs. Some species lay them in a shallow nest or even cover them with leaves and soil. But what’s really remarkable is that most python mothers stay coiled around their eggs to protect them while they develop, and if the temperature gets too cold, the mothers of larger species warm their eggs up by "shivering.” This involves rhythmic contractions of the muscles and is described as looking like the snake has the hiccups. Even though snakes are ectothermic, the mother python can, amazingly, raise the temperature of her eggs up a few degrees by doing this. It takes a lot of energy, though, so she may not reproduce again for two to three years as she gains back the weight she lost. After the eggs hatch, she leaves and the babies are on their own.

Rib walkers

Because of their bulk, pythons move by traveling forward in a straight line, which is known as "rectilinear progression.” This is accomplished by stiffening the ribs to provide support, then lifting a set of ventral (on the belly) scales and moving them forward so the loose ends grip the surface, pushing the snake ahead. This type of movement works on the ground as well as in trees. They can’t move very fast though—only about 1 mile per hour (1.6 kilometers per hour) on open ground. But since they don’t have to chase their food, they don’t really need to move quickly.

Swimmers, not divers

Some people think that pythons launch themselves out of trees onto unsuspecting animals below. That’s not something a python would want to do. Diving out of a tree like that could cause serious injury to the snake, especially a big one. In fact, most big pythons stay on the ground for that very reason. Swimming is another story! Many pythons are excellent swimmers and spend a lot of time in the water. One of their ambush techniques to catch food is to lie submerged in a stream or slow-moving river with only their heads above the water, waiting for a bird or small mammal to come to the water’s edge.

Come check out our selection of live reptiles including Pythons, shipped overnight to your door step!

www.TheReptileKing.com

Monitor Lizard FAQ

2009-12-02T10:46:00.003-05:00

What is the aim of this FAQ?

This document contains information regarding of monitor lizards in captivity. I will try to persuade you to think about your ability to keep a monitor in captivity. This FAQ will also try to prevent you from getting in over your head, and helping you make a responsible decision on which species to keep if you decide to keep a monitor. Furthermore this FAQ serves as a means to provide the best possible information on captive monitor husbandry. I will try to contrast different husbandry techniques in order for YOU to determine which is best.

A lot of information available on monitor lizards is misleading. The pet trade is often responsible for spreading this inaccurate information about monitors. Pet stores will sell baby Nile monitors and tell the customer it will only grow to the size of the cage. They will tell customers it will be "dog tame" and a fun pet. They will sell a 30 gallon aquarium and tell the customer this is the biggest cage the monitor will need. They will tell you all the nile monitor will eat for the rest of its life is crickets. They will tell you monitors do not need much heat above room temperature. They will tell you anything they need to tell you in order to make a sell. All of this information is inaccurate and you will end up with a dead monitor. Monitor lizards, of any species, really are not for the beginner reptile keeper. The smaller species, such as varanus acanthurus or "ackies" , are great for first time monitors keepers. The larger species, such as varanus salvator or varanus niloticus, although cute little lizards as hatchlings, grow at tremendous rates and can easily be 4'+ by the end of their first year and can eventually grow upwards of 6'. There is no guarantee they will become tame no matter how much you work with them, and even a bite from an average sized monitor can cause severe damage not to mention an incredible amount of pain. Monitors will often use their tail as a whip for their primary defense. Their powerful limbs accompanied by their very sharp claws can also do some considerable damage not only to you, but to your belongings in the case of an escape. These animals are not cheap to keep as well. Their caging and food can easily reach over a $1000 a year so it is best to plan ahead.

Although I have done an incredible amount of research over the last two years and have been helped by others in writing this FAQ, this is by no means an end all document. I urge you to do your own research before purchasing a monitor. This is the most accurate information I can provide you, but that does not necessarily make it true. Monitor husbandry is relatively new and is continuing to evolve. Thus, what is said here today may not be true tomorrow. However, I will do my best to make this a living document and keep the information as up to date as possible.

Most species of monitors commonly kept in captivity can be kept in very similar ways. Their basic requirements are the same although some variation does exist. I will try to treat as many species as I can in their own sections, but this is based on the cooperation and information of others who keep them. However almost all the information gathered here can be applied to any species.

INTRODUCTION

What is a monitor?

Monitor is the common name for lizards belonging in the family Varanidea. All monitors, as of now, belong to the genus varanus but they may soon be split into smaller groups including the Odatria group (Bennett 1998). Virtually all monitors are similar in appearance with the main variation being size. As of now there is still some confusion in the taxonomy of monitors lizards and considerable work needs to be done in the future.

How many species of Monitors are there?

Nobody knows for sure. As of now there are around 50 recognized species depending on who you talk to. However more are constantly being identified and there are many known yet undescribed species.

How large do monitors get?

Monitors vary an incredible amount in size. The smallest is V. brevicauda which only reaches a size of 23cm (Bennett 1998). Determining the largest monitor is a bit trickier as it depends on your definition of largest. The komodo Dragon (V. komodoensis) is definitely the largest in bulk and near the longest as well. There are reports of komodo dragons being upwards of 9' although this may be unusual. This species is endangered and luckily is not available to the public. The longest monitor available in captivity is the crocodile monitor (V. salvadorii) and they too can reach upwards of 9' but the majority of that length is tail and they do not reach anywhere near the bulk of a komodo dragon. Two other large monitors, the water monitor (V. salvator) and nile monitor (V. niloticus) are also available and commonly kept in captivity.

How fast do monitors grow?

Monitors grow at incredible speeds if they are provided the proper conditions. Heat and the amount of food given will affect a monitor's growth rate. A savannah monitor I have grew from 7" to 44" in a year and then grew from 44" to 48" in the next six months and has not grown since. Monitors grow very rapidly in their first year, under ideal conditions, and then slow down until they reach their maximum size.

How long do monitors live?

Due to inaccurate records and the majority of animals being imported it is hard to say how long monitors live. They certainly can live to be over ten years of age and I have heard of water monitors being kept for over 20 years in captivity although I do not have proof of this. Regardless of the details, a monitor lizard is a long commitment and one should plan on it living for well over 10 years.

PURCHASING

What do I need to consider before buying a monitor?

Before you purchase a monitor you need to make sure you have fully researched the animals requirements and have a proper enclosure already set up. Some cities have laws banning or regulating the keeping large reptiles in captivity. You should check with the local law enforcement agencies in your area if any apply to the keeping of monitors.

The monitor itself should be active and alert. If an animal is "tame" or lethargic that can be a sign poor health. The monitor's eyes should be bright, clear, and opened wide. It should actively flick its tongue as it moves around. Its nose and mouth should be clear of mucus. The vent should also be clean. The base of the tail should be round and firm, there should not be any protruding bones. Healthy monitors often do not want to be held especially hatchlings. They will try to run, whip their tail, defecate, and lastly bite you. These are things healthy monitors do and if you have a problem with this do not get a monitor. Not all monitors are as feisty as this but this is what one should expect. Look under species accounts to find which species might be better suited for your needs. Often times you can find tame older monitors but make sure they are kept in good conditions with adequate temps. "Tame" monitors at a pet store often turn out to be nothing more than cold monitors and are "monsters" when given a proper set up

How much can I expect to pay?

This depends on the species. Savannah monitors (v. exanthematicus) and Nile monitor (V. niloticus) are heavily imported and I have seen them for sale at $15. Captive Bred species command a much higher price but are worth it. They are healthier, less stressed, and should not contain parasites. Also by buying captive bred monitors you are helping alleviate the stresses on wild population. Be careful though and ask for proof (photos of eggs and the animals hatching) of the animal being captive bred as it is common practice for dealers to misrepresent their stock in order to sell it faster. Virtually all Indonesian and African monitors are imported although there are a few exceptions.

Australian monitors are all captive bred due to a ban on the exportation of Australian wildlife. The price for Australian monitors range from about $250 for yellow ackies (V. acanthurus brachyurus) to well over a thousand for the less common. However many Australian monitors belong to the subgenus odatria (dwarf monitors). This does not mean they are small by any means. The most common (V. acanthurus) can reach length up to 3', although 2' is much more common. Remember you get what you pay for.

Is there anything else I need to buy?

When you purchase a monitor you should already have an enclosure set up. This includes the cage, substrate, heat lamps, any supplemental heating device, hide spots, a basking spot, water bowl and any decorations. A digital thermometer is also good to have around and one with a probe can be purchased for under $20. A good book on monitors should also be purchased if you have not already. Look under misc. for books I recommend. You may also want to purchase some leather gloves, such as welder gloves, for when you handle your monitor.

How do I transport my monitors?

Hopefully you will not have to transport your monitors but if you do here are some methods. For smaller monitors I have used small burlap bags similar to potato sacks or pillow cases. I usually put some moss or substrate in with the monitor and tie up the end. For larger monitors it may be possible to transport them in dog carriers or other such devices. For aggressive animals you can duck tape the mouth closed to prevent the monitor from biting. THIS IS NOT FOR SHIPPING. These methods are for short trasportation such as to and from the vet etc. Remember these animals should not be left in the sun, as they have no way of escaping heat while being transported. Extreme cold should also be avoided. A small 48-hour heat pack can be placed under the monitor if it is being transported in cold conditions.

HOUSING

What important factors must I consider to house my monitor?

Before purchasing a monitor one must have an adequate enclosure set up for it. The enclosure is a very important part of proper monitor husbandry. The best enclosures will be insulated to hold both heat and humidity. A good substrate is needed for burrowing. The enclosure must be large enough for adequate hide areas; a water bowl, basking area and you must be able to provide the proper thermal gradient. For many species the best type of enclosure is a trough or stock tank, which are available at many feed stores. They come in a multiple of sizes with the largest I have seen being 8'x3'which can suit the needs of an averaged sized monitor.

How large does the enclosure need to be?

The best answer to this is as big as humanly possible. Remember in this case bigger is better. That said there are minimums that a monitor should be kept in. The best rule of thumb to follow is the enclosure should be twice as long as the monitor and as wide as the monitor is long. For instance a four foot monitor should be kept in a cage that is AT LEAST 8' long by 4' wide. Again this is the minimum and if you can go larger than by all means do so. You want enough space so that your monitor can move around comfortably and have access to all temperatures in the thermal gradient you provide. Due to the rapid growth of monitors it is best to plan ahead with enclosure size. The most economical and practical cage would be one large enough to house an adult no matter what size the animal is now.

What type of enclosure can I use for monitors?

There are many styles of enclosures sutable for monitors. If you must use a smaller tank for a hatchling than required for an adult there are several options available. The most obvious are the glass cages manufactured for reptiles. You can also use glass aquariums for fish although you will have to design a secure lid for these. With either one of these the screen top should be eliminated. Screening not only causes excessive heat loss but it will also dehydrate the cage and thus the monitor very rapidly. This can cause many health problems one of the most obvious is retained shedding. You can replace the screening with plexi-glass relatively cheaply. You can also custom order a cage or build one, but if you go this route you might as well build one or order one that is large enough to house an adult.

For dwarf monitors to mid-sized monitors (no bigger than 4' in total length) the best type of cage I have used are troughs or stock tanks. These can be purchased from feed or agriculture stores. They can be bought in a variety of sizes the minimum size for even the smallest monitor would be one that is 4' long by 2' wide. For these you will have to fabricate your own lid. The best lid for these is a sheet (or two) of (painted trough in room)

plexi-glass. For ventilation you can drill a series of holes near one end. The holes should be drilled above the cool end of the enclosure. You want to have enough ventilation to provide for an exchange of air but not too much such that air can freely escape the enclosure.

One thing to avoid is a cage made from screen. These types of cages will hold your monitor only long enough for him to completely shred it up and thus escape. Also cages with large screened lids should also be avoided. These types of cages can create problems with regulating temperatures and dehydration.

When purchasing a cage you should also keep in mind whether you want a front opening cage, often with sliding glass doors, or a cage which opens from the top. The main advantage of a front opening cage is they can often be stacked thus saving room. With keeping monitors this advantage is far outweighed by the disadvantages associated with these cages. Front opening cages make it difficult to provide a deep substrate because they often only have a liter dam that is only a few inches high at best. If the cage is deep enough (over 2' in depth) then you can put a few inches of substrate toward the front and then create a hill of substrate toward the back which is deep enough to allow your monitor to burrow. This however limits your monitor's choices of where to burrow to where you have made the hill. Another problem with front opening cages with sliding glass doors is the substrate will often get in the siding door track. This makes it difficult and sometimes impossible to open the door. This can be remedied by having a door that swings up or down on a hinge, however the substrate problem will still be present.

What type of enclosure can I use for larger monitors?

Depending on the species, you have a few choices. For the larger monitors you are very limited to what you can build or you can dedicate an entire room to the monitor. A relatively cheap enclosure can be built out of plywood and 2x4s. A non-toxic waterproofing coat should be added to the wood to prevent it from warping. Marine resin (used to repair fiberglass boats) is an inexpensive and effective way to water proof the wood. One must follow the directions carefully and be sure to mix the hardener and resin accurately. You should also provide plenty of time for the resin to dry and do not place an animal in the enclosure until you can no longer smell any fumes from the resin. Another popular material for building enclosures is melamine. This is basically particle board with a thin plastic like coating. Personally I do not like this material for monitor enclosures. For one it is very heavy and hard to work with. Second the plastic coating does little to waterproof the enclosure and eventually the particle board will begin to deteriorate. I have heard of other problems associated with use of this material as well.

Do monitors only grow to the size of their enclosures?

No, this is a myth. Monitors will continue to grow regardless of cage size and in too small of a cage this can cause serious health problems. The monitor will not be able to thermo-regulate and can easily overheat. There have been cases where monitors spines have become crooked from growing in a cage that was too small. Besides being cruel, a monitor will more than likely die if kept in a cage which is too small. The cage should be large enough to allow for plenty of choices in movement and hiding areas.

Can monitors escape from enclosures easily?

Monitors are excellent escape artists. Their intelligence combined with their power makes it possible to exploit any weak link in your enclosure. They will work away at a small hole until it is large enough for them to escape out of. They also will remember how they escaped, and if the enclosure is not improved, they will escape again.

What furnishings need to go into an enclosure?

This depends on the type of monitor. However there are three basic needs of all monitors. They will need a basking area (this will be covered more below), hide areas, and a water bowl. Some monitors, such as water monitors (V. salvator) may benefit from a large pond in which they can swim around. Such ponds require extensive filtration and or daily water changes, as the monitor will often defecate in the water. Smaller water bowls should always have a fresh supply of water. For hatchling monitors be sure not to fill the water too deep as there is a potential for them to drown. Adequate hide areas are important as well. There should be multiple options of hide areas across the thermal gradient so as not to force your monitor to hide in too cool or too warm of a spot. Monitors will often utilize their burrows as a hiding area but other options should also be available. Hiding areas will cut down on the amount of stress placed on a monitor in captivity.

Other types of furnishing to provide are hollow logs, large branches to climb, and perhaps rocks. You can also decorate the enclosure with silk plants or even live plants. However (Ackie enclosure with water bowl, rock, basking platform, log,
hallow log/cork cark, and clay statues)

the monitor will often destroy small live plants very rapidly and silk foliage will often be rearranged by the monitor. Hollow logs can be useful both as a hiding area and for some species a nesting site.

What type of substrate should be used?

The best substrate for many monitors is plain dirt. You can dig up your own dirt; this makes it both free and unlimited. Just about any type of dirt can be used and will be suitable for burrowing. However dirt which is heavy in clay should be avoided if possible. Again this is simply for burrowing and an adequate nesting substrate may be something entirely different.

Another good substrate, particularly for Indonesian monitors is cypress mulch and leaf litter. This substrate will hold moisture well and will allow for burrowing. It is also very easy to clean. The only problem with cypress mulch is its availability. It is impossible to find in some areas however Pro Exotics offers large bags of it for sale and they will ship it.

What temperature should their environment be?

The most accurate word describing temperature for monitors is choice. You do not want to force your monitor to use certain temps but rather you want to create a thermal gradient with a range of usable temps for your monitor. The range of temps I have been most successful at are from a 130-150 degree basking spot down to about 70-75 degrees on the cool end. Remember the basking spot is just that a spot. It should be about the size of the monitor's body. A too small of an area and the monitor will not be able to use the heat properly. A too large of an area and the proper range of temps will not be provided and your monitor may not be able to escape the heat.

The easiest and most effective way of making a basking area for many of the smaller species of monitors is with a multilevel plywood stack. Basically its 2x4's separating plywood sheets. This allows for different temps on different levels. Place the stack (Sand monitor using basking platform)

right below your heat source and you are done.

The best heat source I have used for creating a high basking spot and a steep thermal gradient is halogen floodlights. I have used many types of reptile heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, heat panels and none are as effective as halogen lighting. You can purchase these bulbs at any hardware store. You should purchase a bulb that is between 45 watts and 75 watts depending on your needs. Most people assume that a higher wattage bulb will produce more heat and thus they go for high wattage bulbs. However rather than buying higher wattage bulbs all one has to do is move the bulb closer or farther away from the basking spot to achieve the ideal temps. Higher wattage bulbs heat the air more and thus more air is escaping the enclosure. This warm air is humid (hopefully) and is replaced by dry cool air. This leads to the dehydration of the cage and eventually the monitor. This is why lower wattage bulbs tend to be better for heating an enclosure.

For larger monitors a bank (two bulbs next to each other) of bulbs may be necessary. This will produce a larger basking spot under which the entire body of the monitor will fit. Again these should be low wattage bulbs.

How do I regulate air temperature?

The easiest way to regulate the temps is through a combination of ventilation and your basking light. In my 5' x2'x2' trough a have a single 50-watt halogen light bulb. The bulb is roughly 6" from the basking spot. The temps range from 150 degrees under the basking spot to 76 degrees on the cool side of the trough. This is my only heat source.

Basking bulbs work very well in smaller cages and well-insulated cages. However if you have a very large enclosure and are in a cool climate, then you may need additional heating. For heating the air I recommend radiant heat panels. They are very effective and last for many years. Heat pads can also be used to provide a warm place for your monitor to lay.

What lighting does a monitor need?

Some people believe it is important to have a day/night cycle for monitors. These people believe improper light cycles cause monitors to stress and become unhealthy. If done properly however this simply is not true. I look at it as 24 hour heat not 24 hour lighting, and this maximizes the choices available to the monitor. It is not only important to have adequate hide areas available for this to work but it is also important to have a proper substrate in which your monitor can burrow. Monitors are on their own schedule and can care less about your schedule and their lighting schedule. They will retire to their homes (burrows) around the same time regardless of the light. If you ever look into a burrow of your monitor it is very, very dark. I tend to be able to only see in inch or two into the burrow. To them, it is night.

If you decide to have a day/night cycle then you must provide some sort of supplemental heat at night. This can be through a ceramic heat emitter, a radiant heat panel, or perhaps a reptile night bulb. As for how long the day cycle should be and how long the night cycle should be, it really does not matter. Your monitor will go to sleep when it wants not when you tell it. Besides, for it to be natural you would have to have the same exact day/night cycle from the exact local your monitor was collected. This information is more than likely next to impossible to obtain. Furthermore, you would then have to adjust the day/night cycle every couple of days. Even after you did all this, your monitor still will not care.

What about UV light?

There is no available information regarding the benefits or drawbacks of providing UV lighting for monitors. Most lights available that produce UVA or UVB produce miniscule amounts of these rays. I have raised monitors with both UVA and UVB and some without UVA and UVB lighting and have not been able to determine any differences. If you want to provide this type of lighting go ahead but it is not necessary.

What's the best way to keep the enclosure clean?

You should spot clean your monitors enclosure every time you see feces. This only takes a few seconds a day and is not difficult. Every so often I use a shop-vac and suck up the top layer of dirt in my monitor's enclosures. If you do not use dirt or do not have a very deep substrate then you may have to change out the entire substrate as it becomes soiled. You should always have fresh clean water available to your monitors and this usually means changing the water very often. Monitors seem to get incredible joy of washing themselves off in their water bowl, especially after you have recently changed it.

FEEDING

What can I feed my monitor in captivity?

In captivity the most common prey offered to monitors are crickets and mice. The larger species of monitors can easily take rats as well. Various other insects can also be offered. Hissing roaches are becoming more popular due partially to their large adult size and their prolific reproduction. Superworms, meal worms, silk worms, stick insects, fish, crustaceans and snails are also commonly offered.

Whenever possible one should offer whole prey rather than any processed diet. Dog food is offered by some people however it is my belief this is not a good food source. There is no roughage in dog food and this leads to runny stools. Another diet being experimented with is a ground turkey based diet. Again there is a problem with roughage.

How often does a monitor need to eat?

This depends on many factors. A growing monitor should be feed everyday. For hatchlings I recommend feeding enough crickets or other insects, of appropriate sizes, until the monitor no longer shows interest eating. Then throw in a few more so it has something to eat if it becomes hungry later in the day. The size of the prey should be adjusted to the size of the monitor as it grows. Prey should not be wider than the width of the monitor's head. Smaller prey items are easier and more efficient for a monitor to digest. As your monitor begins to slow down in growth, feeding should also slow down so that the monitor does not become obese. Feedings can be every other day and the amount of food should be less.

Some argue that feeding mice can be harmful and cause impactions in the digestive tract of the monitor. Impactions only happen as a result of poor husbandry, not due to diet. Dehydration and inadequate temps are the causes of impactions. Monitors have very effective digestive systems and when they have access to proper heat (130 degrees +) their metabolism becomes high enough to digest anything. Proper hydration is also important for digestion. If the monitor becomes dehydrated its urates will become large and solidified which make them difficult to pass.

How do I give food to my monitor safely?

Most monitors will accept live or dead prey without hesitation. The easiest way to feed them would be to throw the prey into the cage. If you must jiggle pre-killed prey in front of your monitor then you should not do it by hand. The monitor can easily miss the food or mistake your hand for food. You should get a long pair of tongs and offer the food from them. Monitors also remember where their last meal came from. If it came from your hand then the next time you stick your hand in their cage they may think it has food and you will get bit.

Should I feed live or pre-killed food?

This is really up to you. Insects should be offered live as there is no reason not too and monitors tend to ignore dead insects. However in my experience monitors will readily take pre-killed or live rodents. Live food offers a chance for your monitor to get exercise while trying to capture the prey. However you should not leave live prey in the cage for long periods. Mice can get hungry and start to bite your monitor. I have never dealt with this problem as my monitors eat their food very rapidly and if your monitor does not eat right away it might be a sign of improper husbandry.

What about vitamin supplements?

Growing monitors need lots of calcium to support bone growth. A good quality source of calcium is needed while growing. The two brands I use are Repti-Cal and Miner-all. It is especially important to dust insects with a calcium supplement. Monitors on a mouse based diet do not need as much calcium supplementation as those on an insect based diet. However remember that pinkie and fuzzy mice are not a good source of calcium.

TYPES

Savannah monitors are often labeled beginner monitors. THEY ARE NOT. They have been assigned this label for a variety of reasons. First, they are readily available and very inexpensive. They only cost importers less than $5.00 each and are imported by the thousands. Savannah monitors also have a reputation for becoming tame. However, of the hundreds of thousands of imported Savannah monitors how many survive never mind becoming tame? The answer is very few. Not because they are fragile animals nor is it because they do not make good captives. It is because they fall into the hands of beginners, who are not ready for taking care of a (Captive Savannah monitor foraging in a field.)

monitor lizard. Often times these monitors are fresh imports who are mal-nourished, carry parasites, and need to be nursed back to health. Virtually all Savannah monitors are imported, so if somebody is offering a CB Savannah monitor ask them for proof. If you are a beginner get a captive bred monitor, such as an ackie, it will save you a ton of headaches.

Savannah monitors reach a moderate size for a monitor. Males can reach over 4' in length while females are typically smaller. They are a heavily bodied monitor and care must be taken that they are not overfed and become obese. Young Savannah monitors can be fed mostly an insect diet. They will readily take crickets, worms, snails, and roaches. Be sure to dust insects with a good calcium supplement such as repto-cal or miner-all. As they increase in size they may become less interested in the smaller insects and it may become more practical to feed mice.

Hatchlings can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. However these monitors will grow extremely fast and you will soon need to be thinking about larger accommodations. When my Savannah monitor was 14" I moved him into a 6'x2'x2' cage. An adult should be housed in a 8'x4' but larger is better. Savannah monitor love to burrow so a deep substrate is needed and dirt is preferred. There should be a basking spot of 130+ degrees and the ambient on the cool side should be around 75.

Ridge-tailed monitors or ackies are in my opinion one of the best beginner monitors available. The high cost of the monitor itself often turns beginners off, but I encourage you to consider them. In the long run the Ackies will be cheaper for many reasons. They are all captive born so they should not have to be treated for parasites which means no expensive vet visits. They eat less amounts of food than larger monitors and can be fed crickets their entire life. They only attain a relative small size and do not require large (Ackie basking)

expensive enclosures.

Ackies are generally easy going monitors who do not mind interactions, although there are plenty of exceptions. The best advantage of ackies and other "dwarf monitors" is being able to house a trio or pair of them in a relatively small enclosure. You will be able to learn a great deal about monitor behavior and monitor needs, which will provide essential information if you decide to keep other species.

Ackies reach a small size in the monitor world. They tend to get around 2' although many are smaller and some larger. Ackies can live on a diet of insects their entire life. I feed almost exclusively crickets with the rare pinky mouse as a treat. They will readily take worms, roaches, and other insects as well. Be sure to dust insects with a good calcium supplement such as repto-cal or miner-all.

I prefer to try and keep my monitors in the same cage throughout their lives. That said, I have keep my trio in a 5'x2'x2' trough. A 6'x2'x2' would be best but slightly smaller will suffice. You can put them in a smaller cage if you must, but they grow rapidly and will need a larger enclosure in about 6 months. Ackies like most monitors love to burrow so a deep substrate is needed and dirt is preferred. A minimum of 12" is recommended but if you can provide more then by all means do so. The substrate should be moist but not wet. This is important because if kept in a too dry of cage you will experience many problems due to retained sheds. This includes toes falling off. There should be a basking spot of 130+ degrees and the ambient on the cool side should be around 75. A water bowl should be provided and a few branches for them to climb on will no hurt either.

(Two ackies sharing a burrow)

Written by Chad Jacobs

Here is my take on the care for argus monitors. This care sheet is for a single animal or a breeding pair.

CAGE SIZE- 8 feet long, 4 feet wide , 4 feet tall. Make sure you build it to open from the top. Side opening cages don't work well.

SUBSTRATE-Dirt works best. It should be no less than 2 feet deep. A tip to make (Two argus monitors, one tripoding photo by Chad Jacobs)

burrowing easier, which is very important, is to lay plywood on top of the substrate.

HEAT-The cool side of the cage should stay around 80 degrees. The basking temps I use are 125-130 degrees.

FOOD- I feed adult mice as the main diet. I'll also give them roaches and turkey with Miner-all, but only when I'm out of mice. As far as how much to feed them, let's just say a lot. I was able to fill up one of my argus monitors in six days costing $36 on the seventh day it was full. Note on feeding, if your basking spot is too cool your argus will not have the energy and appetite it should, and if you feed without the proper heat you will end up with a fat animal. FAT ANIMALS DIE YOUNG.

HUMIDITY- With the high temps needed, you will need to maintain high humidity. One of the most common ways to do this is to control the air flow leaving your cage.

WATER-I use a large water dish just to be on the safe side. It is not too often that I see them drink but it's there if they want it.

ATTITUDE- If you ask most argus monitor keepers if Argus are tame, they will laugh in your face. The "tame" argus is rare. If you are looking at an argus and it seems inactive, you should take it to the Vet or check your husbandry. If you are looking for an animal that will keep you watching its cage to see what it will do next. Then maybe an argus is for you.

There are many more species out there, these are just a few

Stop on over to our store and check out Monitor supplies! CLICK HERE

The Reptile King.com is now OPEN!

2009-11-22T21:40:00.002-05:00

Welcome to The Reptile King (or TRK for short), we are now OPEN!

TRK is a one-stop shop providing live reptiles, amphibians, invertebrates and reptile supplies anywhere in the US. Through our unparalleled customer service, our quality selection of products and reptiles, our lightning quick shipping, and our comprehensive Reptile Education Center, our goal is to deliver a fun, easy, and enlightening reptile experience!

TRK is also committed to the proper care and well-being of reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates (but we love all animals). The care and maintenance of reptiles varies greatly by species. Even so, owning a reptile can be fun, easy, and rewarding, no matter what your age. TRK puts the “mate” in squamate, and that’s why we’re here; to match you with the reptile that best suits you!

"We take the guesswork out of reptile care." ™

Although we are not certified herpetologists, we have several years of experience in the pet trade. You can rest assured that we will answer any of your reptile questions or concerns, and provide you with the most up-to-date information. For your convenience, we have three ways to communicate with us: live chat, e-mail, and our toll free number.

We also believe that by providing complete habitat setups with our simple care and cleaning instructions specific to the species we sell in each and every box, we can stay true to our motto. Complete habitats paired with our simple care guides and our dedication to customer service will inspire confidence and maximize your reptile experience.

Stop on over and say Hi! Click Here to visit The Reptile King

Have fun!

Phil & Travis

The Reptile Kings

Leaf Tailed Geckos

2009-11-19T05:10:00.005-05:00

LEAF TAIL GECKOS
(Uroplatus species)
Origin: mainland Madagascar and surrounding islands.
Family: Gekkonidae

The leaf-tailed gecko family has nine members ranging in size from 30cm to 8cm. This cryptic gecko has excellent camouflage skills making it “blend” in to its natural environment of the rain forests of Madagascar. Larger members of the genus have beards and fringes around the whole body. When at rest laying head down on a mossy or lichen covered branch are almost impossible to see, the beard and fringes are flattened to the branch creating a perfect match and avoiding any shadow being cast. Small members have tails mimicking leaves, bodies resemble dead leaves and twigs. Overall this species is a master at disguise. Large eyes help this nocturnal species hunt its prey, large mouths are capable of tackling over sized prey. The common leaf-tailed gecko has more teeth than any other lizard on earth. After a night’s hunting an individual will often return to the same resting place, reports of lichen covered branches with bare patches where the geckos rest are reported. Color change is possible and most dramatic at night, some specimens can be stunning in colors of lichen and mosses from pinks to oranges, on the other hand some can be dull patterns of browns.

This species is totally adapted to life in a primary rain forest, so cryptic are their disguises species and sub-species are still being discovered today. The locals are afraid of them and refer to them as the devil. When disturbed larger members of the species especially Uroplatus fimbriatus stand up open mouthed and let out a large hiss, to an observer I can imagine a branch “coming to life” and hissing at you would be disturbing.

In captivity a tropical rain forest set-up is required heavily planted with lots of climbing branches. I would highly recommend live plants & mosses planted in a peat substrate, as high humidity is required. As with all highly humid vivariums air circulation is essential to avoid stagnant air. This species does not like it hot and will dehydrate quickly if kept so. A temperature range of 75-80°F is ideal remember this species will not move during the day unless disturbed, so it will hopefully settle in a thermally comfortable place itself. Water requirements are critical especially when dealing with newly acquired specimens. Re-hydration is critical and should be done as a priority, once settled they usually adapt well to drinking from a dish at night, regular sprays are essential. To stimulate drinking gentle airflow in the water dish works well. Food can consist of all suitably sized commercially produced live foods, and hedge sweeping, remember to only collect from areas you are sure pesticides have not been used. Nectar may be licked.
On a final note after you have carefully made your “rain forest”, marveled at your achievements and settled your gecko in, it will probably rest all day on the glass doors! A happy, hydrated leaf-tailed gecko of the following species should be resting head down with a completely flat tail: U. fimbriatus, U. henkeli, U. sikorae.

The species:

Common leaf-tailed geckos Uroplatus fimbriatus This species is as its name suggests the most common species on Madagascar, and the largest. Occurring along almost the length of the east side, in primary rain forest. Attaining a total length of almost 30cm this is one of the biggest geckos in the world. It can be distinguished from other large species by its amber eyes with vertically striped pattern. Usually two eggs are laid in leaf litter and take 90 days+.

Henkles leaf-tailed geckos Uroplatus henkeli This is one of the most variable colored species. Specimens can range from almost completely white to stunning oranges and pinks, with all the mossy colors in between. Attaining a total length of 25cm it is slightly smaller than the common leaf-tail and differences can be seen in the eyes. This species usually has pink eyes with little or no markings. Usually two but up to four eggs are laid on the forest floor where they take 90 days+ to hatch. This species is found in the north west of the island.

Mossy leaf-tailed geckos Uroplatus sikorae This species is one of my favorite, smaller than the before mentioned species reaching a total length of 18.5cm. Resembling a lichen or mossy branch some species have “twig” like pimples and bumps. Occurring on the on the east coast and northern tip on off shore islands. A sub-species is recognized on the island of Nosy boraha U. s. sameiti, difference in the sub-species can be determined by the inner coloration of the mouth U. sikorae has a black mouth whereas U. s. sameiti has a flesh colored inner mouth. Again usually two eggs are laid and hatch after 90 days+.

Lined leaf-tailed gecko Uroplatus lineatus This species occurs in the north east in bamboo forest. As its name suggests it has several longitudinal brown lines on the body and head, on a yellow background. Reaching a length of 25cm its quite a large gecko, the inner mouth is black in color, its tail is slim compared to the above species and is used in display, waving it slowly. In captivity bamboo canes work well.

Satanic leaf-tailed geckos (American name) Uroplatus phantasticus This is a stunning species reaching a total length of 9cm, its range is the central eastern side of the island. This species mimics to great success a dead leaf, its whole body resembles a curled up leaf, its tail leaf shaped. This is a truly amazing gecko. Coloration can be brown/grey to amazing yellows, green, oranges, and pinks. Called the Satanic leaf-tailed geckos as this species looks like it has “horns”, and some specimens have red eyes. Two eggs are laid and hatch after 60-70 days.

Nosey be leaf-tailed gecko Uroplatus ebenaui Found at the north western tip of the island, and surrounding islands. This species is similar to U. phantasticus but slightly larger in body, with a very small tail. Again this species mimics dead leafs well and can be very hard to spot even in captivity. Two eggs are laid and take 60-70 days to hatch.

The following species are very rarely imported, if ever and are locally rare in Madagascar.
Uroplatus alluaudi Only known from the type locality.
Uroplatus malahelo discovered in 1994 and only known from two specimens.
Uroplatus guentheri West coast.

Overall this is a wonderful gecko to keep and hopefully breed, not that common in collections, its unusual appearance gives it a certain appeal.

Amazon Milk Frogs

2009-11-11T13:39:00.002-05:00

Amazon Milk Frog
(Trachycephalus resinifictrix)

Introduction: In the past, the Amazon milk frog was difficult to locate in captivity but recently, thanks to successful captive breeding programs, the Amazon milk frog has become relatively common in collections. They are easy to locate online from large reptile dealers, and it isn’t uncommon to find one for sale at a local reptile show. One of the reasons people choose to keep this species is because of their attractive coloration and pattern. Juvenile Amazon milk frogs are banded in black and white, but as they mature their contrasting colors change. The black lightens to a dark gray or brown while the white tends to darken to a very light gray. Their skin has a very granular or bumpy texture which gives the frog a distinct look. More unique than their appearance is their breeding behavior. This species of frog breeds only in holes inside large trees, which is one of the reasons it took hobbyists so long to successfully breed them in captivity. Their common name milk frog refers to the poisonous, white, milky secretion that this frog may secrete when threatened. The Amazon milk frog is a rather large tree frog and adults usually range in size from 2.5 to 4 inches (6.3 cm to 10 cm), with males being smaller than females.

Cage: Amazon milk frogs are large tree frogs that should be kept in a cage that offers plenty of room. A standard 29 gallon aquarium that measures 30 inches long by 12 inches wide by 18 inches high (76 cm by 30 cm by 46 cm) is enough room for two to four adult Amazon milk frogs, although more room is better. A tight-fitting cover is essential to prevent escapes. Attaching black poster board or an aquarium background to all but one side of the aquarium will reduce stress and make the frog feel more secure.

The main components of their cage should consist of a substrate, perches, and hiding areas. The substrate that is used should hold moisture, be safe if swallowed, and easy to clean. Coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth, etc.) or other safe soil substrate is a good option. Avoid soils that contain vermiculite or perlite. Simple substrates such as moist paper towels or foam rubber can also be used. Gravel, small bark chippings, and reptile cage carpet should not be used as substrates. Perches can consist of sturdy pieces of drift wood, cork bark tubes, bamboo poles or pieces PVC piping. The Amazon milk frog is arboreal and will do best when provided with hiding spots that are at the top of the cage rather than on the floor. These can be created by resting curved pieces of bark against the side of the cage or by attaching other types of hide spots to the side of the cage with silicone sealant. Many keepers choose to recreate a hole in a tree on one side of the cage for use as a hiding area.

Water: A large bowl of clean water should be provided at all times. The water should be changed daily or when it appears dirty. If tap water is used it should be treated with a tap water conditioner that removes chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. Bottled spring water can be used instead of treated tap water.

Temperature and Humidity: The temperature in the cage can range from 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C) during the day with a slight drop in temperature at night. They are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures and will do fine when temporarily kept outside of those temperature perimeters. A low wattage incandescent light bulb can be used to heat the cage. Use infrared bulbs for heating at night if needed.

The Amazon milk frog is native the humid jungles of South America and the humidity level that they are kept at in captivity should mimic that of their natural environment. To achieve high humidity, their cage can be sprayed with water once or twice a day and ventilation can be restricted. Care should be taken to avoid sealing up too much of the terrarium and creating stagnant conditions.

Food: The Amazon milk frog is a large frog with a large appetite. They will accept the normal selection of feeder insects such as crickets, wax worms, roaches and mealworms. Some adult frogs will also accept pre-killed pinky mice. The majority of their diet should consist of crickets that are the length of the width of the frog’s head. A feeding schedule of three to eight crickets every two days per frog should work well for adults. Juveniles should be fed daily. Other food items can be offered once every week or two instead of crickets. Adult frogs should have their food coated with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements every two to four feedings. Juveniles should have their food supplemented more often.

Mealworm Breeding

2009-11-04T13:24:00.002-05:00

What is a Mealworm?

(Tenebrio Molitor)

Tenebrio Molitor, commonly known as Mealworms, are similar to superworms in that they are hard-bodied larvae, very inexpensive and follow the same pupate pattern. The only difference between the mealworm and superworm is in size. Mealworms are small, as are the pupae and resulting beetle.

Unlike hornworms, silkworms and butterworms, mealworms possess low nutritional value. Nonetheless, they still make great crunchy treats for most animals.

Remember to keep mealworms in the fridge to prevent pupation.

can grow up to 1.5" in length

Note: As with any species, do not feed an exclusive diet of only one insect. In the wild, all animals that feed on insects will eat 50 or more varieties, giving the animal a varied vitamin and mineral intake. As pet owners or breeders, we must approximate the feeding habits and the best way to do this is by feeding an exotic mix of bugs.

Mealworm breeding

Breeding Mealworms and Raising mealworms for Reptiles.

Mealworms are a widely used food for reptiles (herp food), bait, fishing and for feeding Sugar gliders, and more. Meal worms are also used for fishing. Pan fish love them. We have giant mealworms that are the same species of the regular, but double the size. They make a great bait! If you just want to learn how to raise meal worms just read on!

What you will need to breed mealworms:

1. Container. A Rubbermaid or plastic shoe or sweater box will work well.

2. Bedding. Wheat bran, or whole wheat four will work. So will chicken food.

3. Potatoes for moisture.

4. Starter culture of mealworms

Mealworms are the larval form of the darkling beetle. They make excellent feeders for reptiles, birds and small mammals. Sugar gliders love them. They are easy to raise. We have been doing it for fifteen years. Meal worms are easily grown if you give them the ability to grow. Meal worms need a good quality bedding. By quality we mean clean fresh and a bedding made of wheat bran or whole wheat flour. The bedding will also be the food your mealworms eat. Our meal worm cultures are grown by the millions in large pans filled with wheat bran, which you can get at any farm and feed store. You can also use corn meal, chicken mash. The worms are kept at a constant 77 degrees, but you can keep them anywhere between 45 and 85 degrees. We have found that 77 degrees works best for us. The mealworms will take about 12 weeks to go from egg to worm, to beetle.

To start your mealworm culture pour 1 inch of bedding into the container and add your mealworms. Add a couple thin potato slices and that is it.

The mealworms will morph in a couple weeks into a grub looking thing (picture below). The grubs will become beetles. Place the beetles in a second container with bran and potatoes and let nature do the rest.

The beetles will die after a couple weeks. Keep the container with the bran in a dry area, and add small slices of potato when the slice you have dries out. In a couple weeks you will see tiny mealworms. Each female beetle will lay up to 500 eggs or more.

Here are the basic stages Mealworms go through.

1. The first stage is when the mealworm is in the egg.

2. The second stage is when the meal worm becomes a meal worm. The worms grow and shed their skin many times as they grow. It is good to have fresh bran for food and bedding, and a slice of potato for moisture. The mealworms will drink from the potato. This will also help them to grow large. The worms are very active, friendly, and playful at this age. Kind of like children.

3. In the third stage the mealworm pupates, and becomes a pupae. When the mealworm is a pupae it will not eat or drink. It will just lay around. Kind of like teenagers.

4. In the fourth stage the beetle forms, and live for a couple of weeks. This is the adult stage. This is when the beetle goes out and gets food and makes a home for the new mealworms that will come.

Remove he beetles from the culture of mealworms and place them in their own container of bran and you will be ready to start a new colony!

Brazilian White Knee Tarantula

2009-10-31T13:59:00.004-04:00

Happy Halloween to all our readers and fans! A scary tarantula quick guide for this spooky day! We are very close to opening our retail store, should be sometime the first week of november. Stay Tuned!

Brazilian White Knee Tarantula

Range	Forests of northern Brazil.
Type	Terrestrial.
Diet	Spiderlings eat pinhead crickets and other small insects. Adults eat crickets, other large insects, small lizards, pinkie mice, and an occasional fuzzy mouse.
Full Grown Size	7 to 8 inches.
Growth	Fast speed.
Temperature	80 to 85° F.
Humidity	75 to 80%. All tarantulas that have at least a 3" legspan may drink from a shallow, wide water dish.
Temperament	Semi-aggressive and nervous.
Housing	Spiderlings can live in a clear plastic deli-container with air holes. Adults can live in a 10 to 15-gallon tank. Floor space is more important than height.
Substrate	3 to 4 inches of peat moss, or potting soil.
Decor	Logs, driftwood, cork bark, etc. make good hiding places. Moss can be added for floor cover.
Other Names	Brazilian Whiteknee Birdeater, Brazilian Whitekneed Tarantula, Brazilian White Banded Bird Eating Tarantula, Brazilian Black and White Stripe Birdeater, White Knee Tarantula, Whitekneed Bird Eating Tarantula, Giant White Knee Birdeater, Giant Whitekneed Tarantula, and Santarem Pink Haired Bird Eating Tarantula.

*Please note that ALL tarantulas have a certain amount of venom. Although most people are not affected by this species, some people may be allergic to the venom, or just more sensitive, making it a dangerous situation. This is one of the reasons that people should not handle this tarantula. Also, New World species of tarantulas like this one can flick urticating hairs off of their abdomens, which can also cause a reaction, depending on the person. Affects of this tarantulas' natural defenses may vary between people. All tarantulas should be considered dangerous, so be careful, because you don't want to find out if you are allergic or more sensitive the HARD WAY!

Red Footed Tortoise Care

2009-10-28T08:13:00.003-04:00

This is a long one!

Care of Red Footed Tortoise by Bennett Greenberg

Red-foot tortoises (Geochelone carbonaria) are among the most popular and appropriate tortoises for beginning tortoise keepers. Stunningly attractive, their black shell contrasts with their yellow scute areola, bright red legs and yellow or red markings on their head. Being from multiple habitats, they are among the hardiest of species. As long as their requirements are met, Red-foots can be expected to give literally a lifetime of companionship.

Red-Footed Tortoises are inhabitants of grassland Savannah and forests in South America. They can tolerate fairly high humidity and temperatures ranging from the mid 80's to low 70's with the occasional drop down into the 50's. Access to fresh water should be provided at all times, Red-Foots do drink a lot of water and respond well to daily showers and weekly soaks.

Diet and Feeding

Red Foot tortoises are omnivorous. Precise tastes and requirements may vary seasonally. Attempting to sustain a Red-foot tortoise on a diet of mixed grasses would not be advisable; this species is ill equipped to effectively metabolize large quantities of silica-rich grass. One consequence of the higher protein, higher purine content diet of Red-foot and Yellow-foot tortoises is that they must always have access to fresh drinking and soaking water, and must be provided with adequately humid enclosures or terrariums. Dehydration is a very serious hazard to any tortoise consuming higher protein and purine content foods (mushrooms, for example).

It is no coincidence that all species with this class of dietary preference occur in high rainfall, high humidity ecosystems with regular access to free water. In practical terms, both species require high humidity maintenance. As with all tortoises, they also require a high ratio of calcium to phosphorus, additional trace elements and vitamin D3. Sprinkle the food every seven to ten days with Rep-Cal Calcium supplement or Miner-All. Use without vitamin d3 for outdoor specimens and with vitamin d3 for indoor specimens. Red-foot and Yellow-foot tortoises do not bask to the same extent as arid-habitat species, and therefore obtain much of their D3 needs in nature from the animal component of their diet.

The Red-Footed Tortoise has excellent color vision. They need dark leafy greens such as dandelions, turnip greens, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, collard and beet greens. Toppings such as alfalfa hay, timothy grass, rye grass and oats are good for fiber in the Red Foot's diet. Their diet should be supplemented with protein such as crickets, worms, cooked egg and low calorie cat food or dog food and occasional portions of commercial tortoise foods. These should only be as supplements and not with every feeding.

Limit the intake of meats to about once every week. Rinse all grocery store greens and fruits to remove pesticide residues. Mader's 'Reptile Medicine and Surgery' (1996), recommends 75% vegetables and greens, 20% fruit, and 5% high-protein-content foods. As with any turtle or tortoise variety is key. Feed your Red-Foot a mix of chopped greens such as romaine lettuce, dandelion, mustard and collard greens sprinkled with fibrous toppings such as alfalfa hay, timothy grass and oats. On every second to third feeding, along with the chopped greens and grasses add some chopped papaya, mango, prickly pair or similar fruits. Fruits are normally consumed in a very ripe state after they have fallen from the tree.

Once every 7 days, along with the chopped greens and grasses, add small portions of protein such as chopped worms, crickets, chopped cooked egg or possibly even a commercial tortoise food. The greens, grasses and fruits mentioned above are just examples of a wide variety of foods that your Red-Foot can and will eat. You can substitute comparable foods in most cases. Some suggestions are mushrooms, sow thistle, summer squash, green beans, yams, hibiscus and dandelion flowers and leaves, plumbs, grapes and cantaloupe and berries such as blackberries, strawberries and mulberries. Do not feed bananas.

Hatchling tortoises should be fed daily. A diet of chopped greens (kale, endive, mustard, dandelions, etc.) and (once a week) a commercial tortoise diet (15% to 18% protein) should be fed to the tortoises. They should be soaked in shallow lukewarm water every day. Do not keep them on sand. Slightly moist peat moss or moist coconut husk is an ideal substrate that will help elevate humidity. It must be changed regularly to prevent bacteria and mold build up. It is best not to feed the tortoises on the peat moss. They seem to be able to pass the peat moss safely however if eaten in small quantities. If your tortoise is kept warm, fed and watered regularly, and given adequate room it should live for years. Small tortoises can grow about 2 inches per year.

Housing

The substrate of choice is cypress mulch or something possessing the same humidity holding properties in order to keep their shells/skin from drying out in captive conditions. In outdoor pens in areas of high sand content, food should not be placed directly on sandy soil. Sand can build up in the tortoises GI tract leading to possible impaction and even death. A completely separate sand-free area in the habitat should be utilized to feed.

A typical habitat for a Red-foot Tortoise should be large enough for it to walk around, and contain several elements - a pool, a basking spot, and a shady spot. This would be at least 10 to 20 square feet. If weather permits, they should be housed outdoors. When housed indoors the tortoises should be exposed to full spectrum UV lighting for about 13 hours a day. The Red-foot Tortoise especially needs water to soak and defecate in.

If these tortoises are to be kept successfully, they will need to have a temperature gradient so they can move to cooler areas when needed, and likewise, also move to warmer basking areas. During the day, they should have access to areas about 90 - 95 degrees Fahrenheit and cooler areas in the low to mid 80s. At night the temperature should be lowered to about 68 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. This species does not hibernate in nature. Facilities must be provided for the continued health and well being of the tortoise indoors in cooler (non tropical) climates.

Indoor Accommodation

Always try to avoid glass tanks such as aquariums. When tortoises can see through to the outside they have a tendency to spend most of their time trying to get out. If you must use a glass tank, cover the bottom four to six inches to block your tortoise's view. The most common form of indoor accommodation for small or medium sized Red-foot Tortoises consists of what looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size habitat for a hatchling is 2 feet by 3 feet, as the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased. For a large adult Red-foot tortoise the indoor accommodation should be at least 6 feet by 4 feet. Food, water and eventually nesting containers should be placed flush with the surface for easier animal access when possible.

The water area of the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes - it must also be shallow enough to protect from drowning. Keep the water clean at all times. Red-Foots tend to defecate and urinate in their water. Remember, this is the same water they drink so keep it clean! Mist the indoor habitat daily and soak your Red-Foot at least once a week.

Considering the Red-Foot needs a higher humidity then most tortoises a substrate mix that will help maintain this humidity is recommended. A mixture of topsoil, sphagnum moss and "Bed-A-Beast" will work as a good substrate. If room permits, plant some shallow pans with grass, clover and dandelion for grazing and something like monkey grass or small shrubs for cover. Always try to make the habitat as natural as possible. Add a few rocks and a branch to help break up the tortoise's view of the entire habitat lending to a feel of a larger area.

Make sure the habitat is large enough to establish at least some type of temperature gradient. In one corner of the environment a 100W spot lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 95 degrees F or so in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light no more than 18" above the ground to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism). A supplement such as Rep-Cal Calcium supplement with vitamin d3 or Miner-All is recommended. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a dim retreat.

Outdoor Accommodation

Even though red-footed tortoise are medium-sized, they still need a large area or enclosure to roam in. 9 sq ft. per tortoise is recommended (Rundquist, 1994). Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered as an option during warm weather.

Overall, this species does best in naturally humid climates outdoors. If your area is not naturally humid, water timers and a misting/sprinkler system can be utilized to artificially create one. Some areas of the habitat should be heavily planted to allow the Red-foot a cool dim retreat. Provision of a wet muddy area for wallowing will also be appreciated by your tortoise. Red-foots take readily to using a hutch or doghouse-like artificial retreat. Concrete floors are not recommended because they tend to be very cold and have been reported to cause prolapsed of the penis in male red-foots (Rendquist, 1994). In areas with cool nights a thermostatically controlled ceramic heater in such a retreat will provide the tortoise with an area that remains above 60 degrees F.

When building an enclosure for a Red Foot Tortoise you need to provide plenty of room for your tortoise to explore. For an adult I would recommend 10 to 12 feet square or larger. The larger the better. Provide grazing plants such as dandelion, clover, chicory and chickweed and common grasses such as monkey grass, fescue or Bermuda grass.

Your tortoise will need areas of shade and sunlight and a place to burrow or hide. Plant bushes or shrubs that can provide shade and grazing such as Hibiscus and Yucca and maybe even something like Wandering Jew for cover. Provide a partially buried hide box and an area of loose dirt and leaf mulch in one corner. The plants, hide box and mulch area will provide your Red-Foot with several areas of retreat. A shallow pan for water is needed. Dig a depression or hole to match the water pan's size and place the pan so that the top is at ground level.

This provides easy access but make sure your tortoise can easily exit the water dish at will. Add a few rocks and maybe a small fallen branch or two to break up the scenery. Make sure branches are not so big that the tortoise can fall off and land on its back. It is also recommended to hose down the entire enclosure daily and soak your tortoise at least once a week. This simulated rainfall can help stimulate your Tortoise's appetite and increase it's activity levels. There are different substrates available for indoor and outdoor enclosures but for my outdoor enclosure I opt for the ground itself, planted as specified above.

Breeding

Red-foots have peculiar mating rituals. If two Red-foot Tortoises are to mate, they first stand at each other's side. The instigating male will begin shaking its head to the side. If the other Tortoise is a male, it will shake its head in response, and the two will usually get into a mini-brawl. If it is a female, the Tortoise will not respond. The male will sniff the female's tail to make sure it's a female, and if confirmed, mating will commence. During a mating session, the male will make a clucking sound, which is similar to the clucking of a hen. Eggs incubate for about 120 days. Incubation temperatures should remain at 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

Red-foots are capable of producing eggs at any time during the year, although seasonal activity may be noted. One collection of tortoises kept outside in Kansas during warm weather and indoors during the colder months, laid eggs only from October to April for 7 consecutive years (Renquist, 1994). Because red-foots are capable of producing eggs at any time, it is advisable to have a nesting chamber full of damp peat moss and sand available to the females at all times.

A nesting chamber can be constructed by creating a large, open topped box with a ramp so the tortoises can enter and exit at will. The chamber should have the dimensions of 4 x 4 x 2 (l x w x h in feet) and be filled with moist nesting material to a depth of at least 20 inches (50 cm). It is important that more than one male be included in a breeding group, male to male combat is important in inducing breeding in red-foots.

Male to male combat begins with a round of head bobbing from each male involved, and then proceeds to a wresting match where the males attempt to turn one another over. The succeeding male (usually the largest male) then attempts to mate with the females. The ritualistic head movements displayed by male red-foots are thought to be a method of species recognition. Other tortoise species, most notably the closely related and sometimes sympatric yellow-footed tortoise (Geochelone denticulata), have different challenging head movements. Red-footed tortoises have challenging head movements that are a series of lateral jerks, by contrast, yellow-footed tortoises utilize a long sideways sweep in their displays (Auffenberg, 1965).

Male red-foots peruse walking (seeming uninterested) females until they can maneuver them into a position for mating. The unique body shape of the male red-footed tortoise facilitates the mating process by allowing him to maintain his balance during copulation while the female walks around, seemingly attempting to dislodge the male by walking under low-hanging vegetation (Moskovits, 1988).

Incubation and Hatching Care

Gravid females will become restless before oviposition, and will wander around the enclosure looking for a suitable nesting site. A few days before oviposition occurs, the females will begin digging in their chosen nesting site. After the eggs are laid, the female will cover the eggs with substrate. Make sure to note where the female has been digging so that the eggs can be retrieved for artificial incubation. Clutch sizes vary from one to eight eggs, although some large clutches may reach 15 eggs. Red-foots are capable of clutching several times during the year.

After the eggs have been removed, bury them halfway in a container of slightly moistened vermiculite (1:1 ratio vermiculite to water by weight) and place them in the incubator. There is some controversy among tortoise breeders as to whether or not tortoise eggs should be moved from their original orientation in the nest before artificial incubation. Some breeders are careful to mark the top of the eggs so that their orientation is not changed when they are moved to the incubator. Others see this procedure at unnecessary and do not believe disorienting the eggs in the incubator has an effect on hatch rate. According to Marchellini and Davis (1982), red-footed tortoise eggs that were rotated from their original positions had a lower hatch rate, poorer survival rates, and higher incidence of hatch-ling deformities.

Different breeders have different results, but taking care not to rotate the eggs from their original orientation does not take much effort and may improve hatching rate and hatchling success. Do not incubate the eggs in a sealed container, sealed containers encourage CO2 buildup which can be detrimental to the developing eggs. The humidity in the incubator should be 80-100% and the incubator should be opened at least once a week, if not more, to allow fresh oxygen to reach the eggs.

Red-foot eggs are temperature sex dependent, incubation temperatures above 88 degrees F (31 degrees C) will produce females, and temperatures below 82 degrees F (28 degrees C) will produce males (Renquist, 1994). High temperatures however, can cause lower hatch rates and higher rates of deformed hatching. The ideal incubation temperature, if mixed-sex offspring are desired, is 84 degrees F (29 degrees C). Incubation periods range from 105 to 202 days, with an average of 150 days (Paull, 1995). After pipping, the baby tortoises will often spend a few days in their shell absorbing the yolk. Often hatch-ling tortoises will emerge with some yolk sac still present, cleanse the yolk sac with a mild disinfectant such as betadine and keep the hatch-ling on moist substrate until the yolk is absorbed (Renquist, 1994).

Hatch-ling tortoises can be housed inside in aquariums on a substrate of peat moss and sand, and have the same temperature and lighting requirements as the adults. Make sure to provide areas of high humidity and a shallow water dish at all times, hatch-ling red-foots are very susceptible to dehydration.

Kenyan Sand Boas

2009-10-24T23:21:00.004-04:00

Scientific Name: Eryx Colubrinus
Common Name: Kenyan Sand Boa, East African Sand Boa
Location: Tanzania, Kenyan, Africa, Ethiopia, Egypt
Size: Adults typically around 36"-40", around 400g
Housing: Adults can live in a 20-gallon (long) tank or equivalent
Experience Needed: Beginner, Novice
Natural History

Kenyan sand boas are a small and attractive boid indigenous to Kenya and adjacent countries in East Africa. They are a fossorial species and spend much of their lives burrowed under the sandy soil in which they live.
These snakes are ideally suited for their lifestyle, and have some truly remarkable adaptations. The shape and opening of the mouth is situated in such a way as to avoid ingesting soil while digging, and the rear portion of the tail is covered in keeled scales which provide increased traction in soft sand.

This species is continuing to gain popularity in the pet trade and as a result, they are bred in large numbers and are readily available to the interested hobbyist. In addition to the naturally occurring color varieties a number of designer morphs have been produced. Albinos, snows, and anerythristic forms are but a few of the exciting and beautiful variations that you may find.

Size and Longevity

These are among the smallest boa species in the world. Males are typically much smaller than females and seldom measure more than 2 feet when mature. Females are heavier bodied (to support gestation and live birthing) and reach a maximum size of 3 feet.

Kenyan sand boas are extremely hardy and easy to keep. With good husbandry and attention to proper care guidelines, these snakes will live well over 20 years.

Housing

Due to their small size and inactive nature, Kenyan sand boas may be housed in fairly small and convenient enclosures. Babies can be maintained in a standard 10 gallon terrarium for their first year or so. After that, single animals should be housed in a 15 to 20 gallon terrarium, or equivalent enclosure. Pairs or trios should be given proportionally more space.

These snakes do not climb, and in fact, rarely venture above the surface of the substrate. This nature allows for the use of low-profile tanks that offer more floor space but a minimum of height. All enclosures for sand boas should have secure screen lids to prevent escapes and ensure adequate ventilation.

Heating and Lighting

As a desert species, Kenyan sand boas should be kept hot during the day with a slight drop in temperature at night. The warm side of the enclosure should be between 90 and 95 degrees during the day, with access to cooler areas in the low 80's. At night temperatures can safely drop to 70 degrees, although slightly warmer nighttime temps seem advantageous for younger animals.

Heat may be provided via the use of ceramic heat emitters, standard heat bulbs, and heating pads designed specifically for reptile use. Supplemental lighting is not required for this species. However, constant exposure to light can be stressful for any animal, so if heat lights are used during the day, they should be replaced by another form of heat after dark.

Substrate and Furnishings

Being a relatively inactive species, Kenyan sand boas do not require elaborate enclosures. A few inches of substrate should be provided for burrowing. Sand can be used safely as long as your snakes are fed in an alternate container to prevent ingestion. Other suitable substrates include aspen chips (Sani-chips), shredded aspen, or any other desert-type bedding that is designed for use with snakes and is not overly dusty.

Although most sand boas will spend the majority of their time dug into burrows, a few additional hiding spots can be added. Slabs of cork bark and half-logs are both acceptable. Avoid heavy pieces of stone or wood that may settle onto a digging snake and cause crushing injuries. Further decorations such as plastic cacti can be used at the keepers discretion but will be more for aesthetics than for functionality.

Water and Humidity

Kenyan sand boas should be kept dry as to simulate the deserts from which they originate. Shedding problems are rare with this species, but if they occur temporarily offering your snakes a localized area of increased humidity should remedy the problem.

In cages with screen tops, a small water dish may be provided at all times. However, because these animals are so sensitive to high levels of humidity, water bowls should only be offered a few times a week in less ventilated enclosures or in rack systems.

Nutrition

As with other aspects of sand boa husbandry, feeding is fairly straight forward. Snakes of all sizes should be offered one appropriately sized prey item once a week. A suitably sized mouse for a sand boa should be just big enough to leave a noticeable bulge in the snakes belly. Newborn (pinky) mice are ideal for hatchlings, while large adults will easily consume a fully adult mouse.

Pre-killed prey (either freshly killed or frozen/thawed) are recommended to reduce the likelihood of bites to your snake during the constricting process. Additionally, feeding your snakes in a container other than their primary habitat is advised. This ensures that no substrate is ingested when you snake feeds and also seems to cut down on the overall level of aggression of the animal when it is in it’s enclosure.

Handling

Although these snakes are rarely seen exploring their enclosures, they can be removed and handled easily. They are not aggressive, and specimens that have been handled regularly will become quite tame. Keep in mind that these snakes like to burrow, so their movements on solid ground and in your hands may seem spastic and jumpy. This is normal, and they should adjust to your touch over time.

As with any snake, avoid over handling. If your snake seems stressed as indicated by lack of appetite or unusual aggression, consider reducing the frequency of handling sessions until the animal’s behavior normalizes.

Chameleons & Vitamin A

2009-10-18T20:36:00.003-04:00

Holly Frisby, DVM, MS
Veterinary Services

What Is Vitamin A?

Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin, and can be stored in fatty tissues in the body. Vitamin A is required for healthy skin, mucous membranes, the retina of the eye, muscles, teeth, and other tissues. It is necessary for proper growth, reproduction, and a properly functioning immune system. Some forms of vitamin A also have antioxidant properties. It is an essential nutrient, meaning it must be included in the diet.

What Are the Forms of Vitamin A?

There are several forms of vitamin A. Beta-carotene is a form commonly found in vegetables. Many animals can convert beta-carotene into vitamin A. Others, such as the cat, cannot, and must have what is commonly referred to as preformed vitamin A. It was originally thought that chameleons could convert beta-carotene, but recent research suggests that they too may need preformed vitamin A.

There has been considerable controversy over how much, and what type of vitamin A chameleons need. Reports of small research studies in the 1990s suggested chameleons should not be given preformed vitamin A, since it could result in excessive levels of vitamin A in the animal (hypervitaminosis A). Later research found this information to be incorrect. Many chameleons today suffer from vitamin A deficiency (hypovitaminosis A) due to the misinformation published in the early 1990s.

What Are the Signs of Vitamin A Abnormalities?

Hypovitaminosis A

Reduced growth rate
Death
Metabolic bone disease
Necrosis/sloughing of the tip of the tail
Swollen lips
Swelling around the eyes
Abnormal vertebrae
Difficulty with maintaining a grip or posture
Increased number of upper respiratory infections
Inability to reproduce or death of eggs
Loss of appetite
Skin abnormalities
Hemipenile impactions in young males

Hypervitaminosis A

Loss of appetite
Liver enlargement
Bone abnormalities
Calcium deposits in soft tissues
Skin abnormalities

Why Are Pet Chameleons Susceptible to Vitamin A Deficiency?

Chameleons kept as pets often have a diet that primarily consists of insects. In many cases, insects purchased for feeding have not been fed properly and have poor vitamin A levels. In the wild, chameleons also eat small lizards and birds as part of their diet. These species, because of the vegetable matter in their stomach and intestines, provide much higher levels of vitamin A. In addition, the insects they feed on have generally not been nutritionally deprived, as are some purchased insects.

How Are Chameleons With Vitamin A Abnormalities Treated?

Hypovitaminosis A is treated by giving oral or inject-able vitamin A. The husbandry and nutrition must be corrected to prevent recurrence. Secondary problems such as infections also need to be treated. Animals with severe deficiencies may have permanent problems such as skeletal abnormalities, eye disease, or impaired respiration.

The basic treatment of hypervitaminosis A is to remove the supplemental source of vitamin A. Secondary problems such as liver toxicity or skin abnormalities will also need to be treated.

How Should Chameleons Be Fed?

In the wild, chameleons eat a wide variety of insects. As pets, they are generally fed crickets, mealworms, and wax worms. Feeder insects should be coated with calcium supplement (powdered calcium carbonate or calcium gluconate) twice a week for adult Veiled Chameleons; every day for juveniles. The insects should also be "gut-loaded," which means the insects are fed nutritious and vitamin-rich foods before they are given to the chameleon.

Vitamin Rich Foods to Feed Insects

apples
broccoli
carrots
cereals
collard greens
cornmeal
ground legumes
mustard greens
oranges
rolled oats
spinach
sweet potatoes

There are also commercial products rich in calcium and vitamins that can be fed to the insects. There are entire books and manuals on the subject of properly feeding prey insects for pet reptiles. Try to become as knowledgeable as possible regarding the housing and caring for prey insects. It is time-consuming and may be more expensive, but it will help your chameleon live a longer and healthier life.

If the insects are gut-loaded properly, additional vitamin supplementation is often not necessary. Because the amount of food these insects eat cannot always readily be determined, some veterinarians prefer adding a dietary supplement, especially to breeding animals. Others recommend supplementing adults once a week, and juveniles every other feeding. Specific recommendations vary with the species, age, and if the animal is breeding, so a veterinarian knowledgeable about herps should be consulted.

Feed as varied a diet as possible. In general, the more variety, the less likely a nutritional deficiency or excess will occur. Insects may be purchased or wild-caught (without the use of pesticides). Live, wild-caught insects can provide interest, mental and physical stimulation, as well as good nutrition.

Good Foods to Feed Chameleons

Caterpillars
Cicadas
Cockroaches
Crickets — no more than 50% of diet
Earthworms
Flies
Grain beetles
Grasshoppers
Meal worms
Pinkie mice
Silkworms and silk moths
Walking sticks
Wax moths
Wax worms — high in fat, so feed sparingly

The chameleon should be fed by placing the insects in a small bowl. After feeding, check that none of the insects escaped and fouled the water supply in the cage.

Some Veiled Chameleons also appreciate a small amount of plant material in their diet. Clip mustard or collard greens to the side of the cage, and spray them with water.

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