RIO DE JANEIRO – Complimenting Rio’s natural beauty perfectly, even helping to blur the line between the sea and hillsides and the gray asphalt roads, Carioca graffiti is among the most prevalent, eye-popping and colorful to be found in any major city in the world.

Toz at his home studio in Gavea, photo by Doug Gray.

Despite blowing up in New York in the mid-70s, the art form in Brazil is still a relatively new phenomenon, and its arrival in Rio at the end of the 1990s was sudden, stealth-like and unstoppable, with the artists often given a shrug of the shoulders from the authorities that would be the envy of anyone arrested for spray-painting in a New York subway.

Leading the movement was Toz, aka Tomaz Viana, a Bahiano who moved to Rio in 1990 and is currently one fifth of the ever-morphing Flesh Beck Crew that he founded in 1998. As a direct result of their early work at a time when the walls of Zona Sul were untouched, previously confined artists were drawn out of their bedrooms and their work was thrust directly in to the public eye.

“Everyone who drew at home then hit the street,” Toz begins. “Sure there were taggers before us but their black lettering on the walls was gang related, by organized football crews and those immersed in the roots of early baile funk. Their audacity more than their style inspired me, seeing the letters in the highest places. I loved the challenge of getting the best location for your tag”.

The new art was different. When the police approached Toz in the early days and denounced him for tagging he simply replied he wasn’t, he was creating a work of art, and they largely took a step back, looked at it and told him to carry on if they liked what they saw.

“Of course I’ve been taken to the police station and so on, but they just asked what I was doing, I explained and they told me to be on my way. It’s all luck. There is no ‘no’ in Brazil, culturally we don’t behave like that. There is always a way around a situation, and Rio is the capital of that mentality. Unless they don’t like the way you talk to them or something specific about what you’re painting the police will let you be.”

Toz's 'Baby' with Nina characteristically floating in his head, photo by Doug Gray.

Through his characters – a baby boy, a girl called Nina, and a team of ghosts – Toz has been brightening up the walls of Rio for over ten years, and in the process become one of the most iconic and successful local artists of his generation, with commissions for Coca Cola and Nike and his own gallery in Copacabana.

“Some people see my work as childlike, but the characters represent much more than that. Nina represents women and womanhood, and the baby looks young but also old, giving the male perspective on life. I know how men can be – trying to be macho but also very boyish and immature too. We are a pop culture generation who grew up on cartoons, Disney and so on, and our generation ‘gets’ what I do.”

Though not specifically representing his wife, Nina’s appearances in his work across the city often reference in some way the relationship he has with Maria Clara, a professional on the international beach volleyball circuit. Together they make quite the quintessential Carioca couple, but his success has drawn some negativity from the scene he helped begin.

“Since 2004 graffiti in Rio has become commercial, it can now be a profession. As soon as you have success or start painting and selling canvases there are people who will say you are no longer true to your roots. Graffiti is my passion though. I still paint on the street and always will.”

RIO DE JANEIRO – For the fifth year running Brazil was not represented at an Oscar ceremony, and the Ministry of Culture’s candidate for Best Foreign Language Film – Salve Geral (Time of Fear), by Sérgio Rezende – did not even figure among the Academy nominees. To cut closer to the bone, this year’s award went to an Argentinian production, The Secret in Their Eyes.

André Beltrão in 'Salve Geral', photo by Globo Filmes.

Despite the strong storyline, Salve Geral failed to make the anticipated splash even in Brazil, with audience figures of less than 200,000. The story is set in a Sao Paulo prison where, in 2006, a series of violent attacks took place led by the criminal group PCC (Primeiro Comando do Leste or First East Command), and was hyped as the next City of God or Tropa de Elite, but was roundly ignored by critics and cinemagoers alike.

The last time Brazil appeared at the Oscars was back in 2005 when the film Motorcycle Diaries by Walter Salles, was in the running for Best Adapted Screenplay and Best Song – for which Jorge Drexler was eventually awarded the gong with his ‘El Otro Lado del Río’.

One year earlier City of God by Fernando Meirelles received four nominations (Directing, Editing, Adapted Screenplay and Cinematography) but disappointingly left the show empty handed. Before that, in 1999, Central Station, also by Walter Salles, received two nominations for Best Foreign Language Film and Best Actress (Fernanda Montenegro), but again went home without a gong.

More recently the country has been faring even worse when it comes to the Awards ceremony. Since The Motorcycle Diaries the choices from the Ministry of Culture have been Last Stop 174 (2009, Bruno Barreto), The Year My Parents Went on Vacation (2008, Cao Hamburguer), Two Sons of Francisco (2007, Breno Silveira) and Olga (2006, Jayme Monjardim). None of them have made it on to the Academy shortlist.

Seu Jorge in 'Tropa de Elite 2', photo by Alex Lima.

With one eye on next year’s prize, nobody can yet predict which film will be chosen to represent Brazil, but already one of the most anticipated releases for 2010 is Tropa De Elite 2, expected to be released here in August.

The first movie came out in 2007 and was seen by nearly 2.5 million film fans. For the second part, director José Padilha is hoping to avoid the piracy which blighted the original’s release months in advance. To make sure everyone is kept updated with the filming and ready for the release, the production has an official blog, a Flickr Album and even an Orkut profile. Now it is only a matter of waiting to see if the sequel will be as successful as its predecessor.

Another highly anticipated Brazilian movie for the year is Cinco Vezes Favela (Five Times Favela), by a directing collective coordinated by Cacá Diegues and set for release on March 18th. A remake of the 1961 original of the same name, it is directed by Cacá Diegues, Joaquim Pedro de Andrade, Leon Hirszman, Marcos Farias and Miguel Borges. The iconic 1960’s film created the Cinema Novo movement in Brazil, and this time around, Cacá Diegues invited young people from the favelas to tell the story of themselves, almost 40 years later.

RIO DE JANEIRO – With a characteristic zeal for life and moving to a samba beat, it’s a wonder why Rio has never spawned a burgeoning blues scene. As a contemporary cosmopolitan melting pot, the raw sounds and reflective lyrics have a place on the city’s musical landscape in the form of Shenanigan’s weekly blues night.

Cristiano Crochemore Blues Trio play at Shenanigan´s on Wednesday nights, photo by Felicity Clarke.

For the last four years, Wednesday nights at Shenanigans have played host to resident band Cristiano Crochemore Blues Trio. Hailing from Porto Alegre in Rio Grande do Sul, lead singer and guitarist Cristiano Crochemore was drawn to the blues at an early age; “I started playing guitar at age eleven and have always played blues. Porto Alegre has a stronger rock and blues scene and my parents exposed me to artists like Johnny White, BB King and Eric Clapton.”

With its origins in the African-American communities of the American deep South, the blues is so-called because of the state of melancholy traditionally expressed in the lyrics. However, to think of the blues as merely depressive is a limited view of a rich and diverse musical form. “The blues is essentially only three chords, so it leaves a lot of room for interpretation,” explains Crochemore.

The Cristiano Crochemore Blues Trio definitely swings in the direction of more lively blues. Performing one tune behind the other on Shenanigan’s cozy stage area, the trio play a range of covers from artists such as Sonny Boy Williamson, Willie Dixon and Robert Cray in a distinctly upbeat style.

The sound is driven by crisp drums that bounce rather than shuffle and anchored by a fulsome blues bassline. On top of this Crochemore plays guitar with light virtuosity and sings with a soft voice that almost threatens to break into a gravelly rasp.

The melodious blues style of the group fits well with the atmosphere at Shenanigan’s. The popular Ipanema bar bustles with activity and although Irish by theme, can also feel something like a Polish-American whiskey bar with its wood paneling, retro wall fittings, and pool tables.

It´s a comfortable and appropriate place for the blues night, which is a first for the city. “We decided to start the night for the simple reason that there wasn’t a regular blues night in Rio” says Shenanigan’s owner John Monus, who comes from the home of the blues New Orleans, Louisiana. The uniqueness of the event is echoed by Crochemore,’This is the only space in Rio that’s had a regular blues night for the last three years. It’s really rare. It’s a great place and a great night.”

Both John and co-owner Michael Taylor are blues fans, however the night is not about personal taste so much as the Shenanigan’s commitment to offering a range of entertainment. “We offer a variety of international beers, show a variety of sports and play a variety of music” says John. The blues night forms part of Shenanigan’s packed entertainment agenda with live music from Tuesday to Sunday nights.

For more details of what’s on, see the Nightlife Guide.

RIO DE JANEIRO – As Petrobras faces something of a funding crisis having already blown the vast majority of its US$174 billion budget forecast up to 2013, the control of Brazil’s ‘goldmine’ of pre-salt oil is beginning to show signs of cracking.

IBP, the Instituto Brasileiro de Petróleo, Gás e Biocombustíve (Institute of Brazilian Petroleum and Gas).

With four crucial pieces of legislation regarding ‘ownership’ of the oil, Petrobras’ independence, profit sharing and the distribution of the money via the creation of a fund for the Brazilian people still to be passed through Congress, there has been little progress over the last six months. The announcement that funds have also dwindled with backs turned to international oil company investments could raise eyebrows further as to the government’s plans.

As a result the IBP, the Instituto Brasileiro de Petróleo, Gás e Biocombustíve (Institute of Brazilian Petroleum and Gas), to which the international companies who rely on their lobbying power and voice to the government, have been forced into a waiting game that could dangerously stall the country’s oil production plans. With Petrobras ‘inside’ the IBP but also alongside the Brazilian government, any real progress the Institute can make to assist their members has been minimal.

Brazil’s ANP, the National Petroleum Agency, has begun drilling ‘independently’ of Petrobras in order to raise some financial leverage. The plan is to bankroll Petrobras to the tune of five billion barrels of oil, with the money being raised via the issue of new shares onto the stock market. The rigs hired by the ANP are, of course, also owned by the country’s biggest petroleum company.

Guilherme de Oliveira Estrella, CEO of IBP, photo courtesy of Otcnet.

The pre-salt oil continues to be a matter of much debate as Brazil seeks to follow the Norwegian model of creating a second organ, in this case Petro-Sal, to administrate the drilling rights on behalf of Petrobras and by extension the Brazilian government.

The added complexities of the legislative changes, giving Petrobras the sole rights to all exploration and drilling and then selling off ‘shares’ of those blocks (whilst retaining a large percentage on all of them) have helped create the current stall. For each year of reduced activity costs will multiply dramatically, and experts predict that full-capacity production of the currently drilled wells could take fifteen years, and those still to be administrated another ten beyond that.

The Norwegian model worked largely because of the efficiency of Norwegian government and the even-handedness of the allocations and bidding process. Whilst companies like BG and Shell certainly expect similar treatment by Petro-Sal and the Brazilian Government, the added wariness of self-interest and the longer the delays go on could jeopardize their involvement. Further complicating matters, a company by the name of Petro-Sal already exists in Rio Grande do Norte and looks likely to force a name change and another round of bureaucratic hold-ups.

If the major international oil companies were to decide to pull out and concentrate on oil elsewhere in the world it would have a disastrous effect on the timeline of extraction and production for the entire pre-salt layer, and the vast profits that are seen as Brazil’s lifeline to becoming a top-five world economic power over the next decade would be severely dented. The IBP will do everything it can to prevent that happening, and that the alternative is the already troublesome African reserves is the one factor playing in to Brazilian hands.

RIO DE JANIERO – Meditation is becoming an increasingly popular activity in Brazil. In a country noted for its religious diversity and famed for its frenetic metropolises, it is little wonder that Eastern meditation practices, widely acknowledged to calm the mind and improve health and well-being, are becoming increasingly appealing to urbanites and holiday-makers looking for a way to unwind. Under the rules of dharma (or righteous duty) many courses choose to operate on a donations-only basis making meditation open to all.

A class given in the meditation hall, photo courtesy of Luiza Leite.

The Dhamma Santi Vipassana Centre is located in the rolling mountains north of metropolitan Rio, where the dramatic saw-toothed splendor of the Serra dos Órgãos gives way to the gentler crests of the Serra do Mar. Nestled in the cleft of a steep, grassy canyon lined with fruit trees and surrounded by lush, forested peaks, it is difficult to imagine a place more perfectly designed for introspection.

Vipassana meditation is a form of mental training that aims to provide insight into the true nature of the mind by observing physical sensations in the body. Originally from India, Vipassana has gone global and courses are offered in countries the world over, free of charge. The Dhamma Santi Centre in Miguel Pereira is Brazil’s only purpose built Vipassana centre, but retreats are also arranged at temporary sites in São Paulo, Planalto Central, Paraná and the North East.

Meditation is often seen as something of a ‘soft’ practice. These ten day ‘boot camps’ are anything but. Physically and mentally demanding, each day begins with a 4AM wake-up call and ends at 9:30PM after ten hours of meditation. Mobile phones, cameras, books, pens and all other sources of distraction are seized at the door and locked away for the duration. Stealing, lying and killing of any kind are prohibited, (not so difficult you might think, until you find yourself sitting on a nest of biting ants, or shut in a dormitory with a hungry mosquito!)

A meditative pause for lunch, photos courtesy of Luiza Leite.

After an easing-in period for the first three days, students must sit for three full hours each day without moving a muscle – not to scratch an itch, relieve pins and needles, or assuage a cramping muscle. Leaving before the ten days are up is out of the question, as are eating after midday, prayers and yoga, and even having sexual thoughts. But perhaps the most challenging rule of all is the observation of noble silence – no talking, no touching, no eye contact – no communication whatsoever.

For some, the demanding schedule and battalion of rules prove too gruelling, but for those who complete the course the sense of achievement is enormous. Wholesome, vegetarian food and clean, basic accommodation are provided. Due to its popularity advance booking is essential – see www.dhamma.org for more details.

For a gentler introduction into the world of meditation, the Art of Living Foundation is an NGO whose delightful mission is to “uplift humanity by bringing peace”. They offer free, one-hour guided meditation sessions in Jacarepaguá on Wednesdays, Barra on Thursdays and Botafogo on Sundays. For exact times and locations see www.artedeviver.org.br/agenda. Alternatively, the Sivananda Centre in Botafogo offers a free meditation session at 8PM every Friday. Free classes beyond Rio state are listed at www.sahajayoga.org.br.

RIO DE JANEIRO – With its stunning views, colonial era mansions, thriving cultural scene and small town feel incongruous with its city center location, Santa Teresa is one of Rio’s oldest and most charming areas. Sitting atop the hill overlooking Centro and Lapa on one side and Botafogo bay on the other, Santa Teresa is antique Rio with a creative character.

Santa Teresa´s famous bonde tram, photo by Rodrigo Soldon/Flickr Creative Commons License.

The neighborhood grew around the convent of the same name in the eighteenth century. During the following century the area was one of the first parts of the city to be developed and was the stomping ground of Rio’s upper classes.

They built elaborate French-inspired mansions and traveled into the city on the neighborhoods most famous symbol, the rattling yellow bonde tram. The mansions still stand and the bonde still serves tourists and locals alike with its two lines running from Centro to either Dois Irmãos or Largo das Neves.

As the city expanded out towards the south in the early twentieth century, the upper classes moved to the new beach-side neighborhoods of Zona Sul. Attracted by falling rents and beautiful, view-laden setting, Santa Teresa became home to a new community of artists, writers and intellectuals.

While the mansions have faded a little over time, Santa (as it’s locally dubbed) remains a draw for creative types and the bairro boasts the city’s most concentrated cultural scene, acting like Rio’s mountain village bursting with ideas and colors.

Contributing to the neighborhoods uniquely creative flavor are galleries such as: Centro Cultural Laurinda Santos Lobos and Museu de Chacará de Ceu, vibrant street art and events throughout the year including the annual Open Doors Festival where the area’s artists open up their houses to show their work.

Largo de Guimarães at the centre of Santa Teresa. Photo by Rodrigo Galindez/Flickr Creative Commons License.

The neighborhood stretches from Lapa and Glória right up to the peak facing Christ the Redeemer, but most of the amenities and entertainment are along the tram line between Largo do Curvelo and Largo das Neves with the concentration of bars, restaurants, shops and a cinema at Largo de Guimarães. Quality restaurants include seafood at Sobrenatural and SanSushi plus great bar food and street-spilling atmosphere at Bar do Mineiro, Simplesmente and Bar do Gomes.

The hilltop location means transport options aren’t great. The area is serviced by two bus lines from Centro (206 to Silvestre and 214 to Paulo Mattos) and of course the bonde, but to get to anywhere else in the city requires another bus or metro.

Security is also a consideration. The neighborhood is flanked by favelas that climb the hillside on all sides. Gun fights can often be heard breaking out and the tourist appeal of the area means that muggings are common.

However the small town community feel, intriguing architectural character, bohemian vibe and plethora of breath-taking vistas make it a popular residential option and house prices are rising. Currently, one bedroom apartments can be found from around the R$150,000 mark, or rental from R$700 per month. Two bedroom apartments start at R$170,000 and average around R$230,000 to buy, with rents for the same around R$2,200. Three bedroom apartments are average between R$250,000 and R$300,000 with rentals around R$4,000.

Due to the range of properties in the neighborhood, from apartment condominiums to the nineteenth century mansions, prices can vary wildly. If your budget is big, there are some fascinating properties available from luxury apartments for R$650,000, to houses with gardens, swimming pools and of course a Santa Teresa view from R$900,000.

RIO DE JANEIRO – In response to illegal U.S. subsidies granted to domestic cotton farmers, Brazil announced this week a list of American products that would be subject to higher rates of import tax by way of retaliation, and economists have warned of a possible trade war between the two countries.

The U.S. cotton industry has survived on government hand outs that the WTO now deem illegal, photo by House of Sims/Wikimedia Creative Commons License.

The decision has a thirty-day window in which an agreement could still be reached, after which prices of cotton goods, medicines and cars amongst others, will see huge duty increases. This is the first time that the World Trade Organization has allowed a tit-for-tat approach to an international trade dispute, and comes some eight years after the issue was originally brought to their attention.

In that time the U.S. has been overtaken by India in annual cotton production, but leads the way globally in exports. Both still remain some distance behind China, who produces almost the equivalent of the two nations combined.

The subsidies were granted to protect American farmers against the price fluctuations of a cotton market increasingly at the whim of China. The Brazilian cotton industry is dwarfed in comparison, but an agreement could still be reached whereby U.S. technology and techniques are shared in order to boost the South American giant’s production.

It is estimated that without these subsidies the global price of cotton would be 20 percent higher, allowing Brazil a greater competitiveness and therefore a larger share of the market.

A total of 102 articles have been indicated for the increased tariffs which stands to earn hundreds of millions of dollars in extra duty and push up prices dramatically on supermarket shelves. As well as cotton goods, threatened to be subject to 100 percent taxation, tax on cars could rise from 35 percent to 50 percent, nuts and fruits from 10 percent to 30 percent and potato products such as Pringles from 14 percent to 34 percent.

Haroldo Rodrigues da Cunha, head of the Brazilian Association of Cotton Producers, photo by Fabio Rodrigues Pozzebom/ABr.

That there is wide variety of goods targeted is likely to hit America even harder. As Carlos Marcio Cozendey of Brazil’s Foreign Ministry told a press conference; “The idea was to distribute the retaliation broadly in order to maximise pressure.”

The list focuses on products that are also produced in Brazil and for which an easy, homemade alternative is readily available to.

As Haroldo Rodrigues da Cunha, head of the Brazilian Association of Cotton Producers, said in a magazine interview with Dinheiro Rural last year; “It is one of the most complex agricultural issues the WTO has ever had to deal with, but the result is final. America must withdraw the subsidies.”

Hopes do remain that a solution can be found without resorting to the enormous tax hikes, however. Last week the issue was addressed by Hillary Clinton in talks with Foreign Minister Celso Amorim in Brasilia and Gary Locke the U.S. Secretary of Commerce is bound for Brazil to try and hammer out a deal and avoid a trade war that could hit both economies hard.

RIO DE JANEIRO – Roommates require tolerance, synergy, and more often than not, youth. It seems the primary reason for living with roommates is the financial benefit, splitting the cost of common rooms and utility bills. When moving to a new city though, or a new country, having roommates can also be a way to establish a new network of friends.

Some of the many apartment buildings in Rio, photo courtesy of TourstMaker.com/Yahoo Images Creative Commons License.

Finding that room in a shared apartment in Rio is not a simple task though, and one of the few options in English is Craigslist.org. Unfortunately a lot of the ads posted there are targeting naive, and presumably wealthy tourists, so the financial benefits can be limited. Searching in Portuguese is the cheaper alternative, though admittedly not the easier one.

MoraComigo.com.br and EasyQuarto.com.br are the most widely used by locals. An Internet search in Portuguese, something like “quartos para alugar, Rio” (rooms to rent, Rio) will result in several other options.

On these websites one can find both people who are looking for a room and people who have a room available, information about pricing and included amenities. Contact information can be more complicated. EasyQuarto, for example, will let you send someone a message through the website. If you are not a paying member however, you cannot read the response when it arrives. Sometimes people will post their phone numbers or emails right in the ad, which makes things significantly easier.

Easy Quarto offers the most options, although it is not very user friendly a search can be filtered according to neighborhood and price range. With a free membership, you will receive daily emails with all of the newest posts added which match your criteria. Other websites, like MoraComigo, have fewer options but are worth checking for new posts.

There is availability for entire apartments, for rooms to rent with-in an apartment and still some offer what they describe as a “space” divided with the others living in the apartment. Rooms are available in a variety of living situations. The most common are single older adults renting out one or several rooms, a family renting out a room for extra income, or students and young professionals looking to split the rent.

Would be renters should be cautious that they understand what they are agreeing to when renting a room. One woman who is offering a room in Copacabana for R$800, in the apartment where she lives with her daughter and nine year old grandson had several demands of the would be renter: “ You’re welcome to use the microwave to heat up food but you can’t cook, the living room is for family use only and the bathroom across the hall will be for your exclusive use unless I have guests over.”

On average, a single room, furnished, including Internet and use of a laundry machine, ranges from around R$500 a month to about R$900 a month depending on the neighborhood in which it is located. Of course there are some offers that are cheaper and many that are more expensive. There are short-term and long-term rentals available. Many short-term rentals require at least a month long commitment and others require more.

If using a Brazilian website seems too daunting, another option is networking. Speaking to people who already live here is a favorite method of many foreigners on the search. For Damian O’Donnell of Ireland, who has been living here since January, this fact became clear once he arrived here, “I did an enormous amount of research before I came to Rio. To source an apartment isn’t difficult, but to get ripped off is easy. When I arrived in Rio I realized that word of mouth was a cheaper [if] more unreliable route.”

Another option is checking the listings in the Classifieds section of a local newspaper. Significant money can be saved with some research, a Portuguese/English dictionary and maybe some help from a native Portuguese speaker. Francesca Siad, a Canadian living in Botafogo, agrees “I’m leaving soon, but if I could do it again, I would search for a room on Portuguese sites.”

RIO DE JANEIRO – Late last month, fresh from playing a key role in Operation Unified Response, the international humanitarian aid mission to assist Haiti after the disastrous earthquake, the U.S. aircraft carrier USS Carl Vinson made a stopover in Rio de Janeiro. The purpose of the trip was to strengthen bilateral military relations, and a number of U.S. sailors also took part in a series of volunteer exercises in the city.

View from the deck of USS Carl Vinson, photo courtesy of U.S. Embassy Rio de Janeiro.

“We appreciate the strong relationship that has developed between the military forces of our two countries. It is an interaction based on mutual respect, and our intention is to further strengthen our partnerships and joint missions,” said Thomas Shannon, the U.S. Ambassador of Brazil.

The USS Carl Vinson first went into service in 1980, and is 333 meters long, 78 meters wide and 74 meters tall, approaching the dimensions of a 24-story building. She is of the Nimitz class of carriers, and at race speed can impressively hit the mark at 30 or more knots (equal to 56 kilometers per hour or 35 miles per hour) powered by two nuclear reactors. Her range is essentially unlimited, and she could in theory stay moving for 20 years or more.

Her namesake was a member of the U.S House of Representatives for 50 years and was for 29 years Chairman of the House Naval Affairs and Armed Services Committee. In total the ship can accommodate 6,250 crewmembers, and can house 60 planes and 15 helicopters.

Sailors helping out in Barra, photo courtesy of U.S Embassy Rio de Janeiro.

On February 27th, sailors from the carrier were involved in volunteer work that involved painting facilities at two Recreio public schools, Escola Municipal Vice-Almirante Alvaro Alberto and Escola Municipal Vice-Almirante Paulo Moreira. They were joined by about 20 of their fellow Brazilian sailors, and had the opportunity to get to know their colleagues and share experiences of life in the navy. After work was completed, the two schools were presented with photo collages commemorating the visit.

Another project that U.S. sailors participated in took place at the People’s Central Institute, a local community center in the Gamboa neighborhood which was founded by an American missionary over a century ago. The center helps local working parents by offering a daycare service, and provides a venue for the hosting of various cultural and sporting activities.

U.S and Brazilian sailors, photo courtesy of U.S Embassy Rio de Janeiro.

In addition to helping with painting and other maintenance tasks, the sailors, perhaps wearied after their labors, were well defeated by a team of local children in a friendly game of soccer. All of the children were given a USS Carl Vinson baseball cap and packed lunches.

The goodwill mission also involved further sporting fixtures between the sailors of both nations, although results have not been reported. A reception for around 400 guests was also held aboard the carrier.

International media was mainly focusing on the positive aspects of the visit: the only aberration on that theme was a French Agency reportedly questioning the motive of the mission, seeing it as an attempt to sway Brazil’s government into buying American military hardware.

RIO DE JANEIRO – Locals and travelers alike can find some of the best food in Rio at the “feiras livres” (open markets) that proliferate the city throughout the days of the week. With everything from seafood to native fruits of Brazil, the street markets provide a veritable chance to sample fresh goods and mix with the locals on their own turf.

Fruit and vegetable stands often have more to offer at better prices, photo by Martin Kocandrle.

If you are on the hunt for fruit, local markets are the place to be. You will find exotic fruits with funky names and savory flavors. Unlike grocery stores, street vendors encourage you to sample before buying. Many taste buds have been transformed through these street side samplings, be adventurous and you will not be disappointed.

The weekly markets rotate different locations so it is important to get to know the schedule. If you are staying in Zona Sul there is no shortage of fresh produce to fulfill your shopping needs. A schedule servicing the different areas keeps shoppers and vendors busy throughout the week.

If you are looking for gourmet goods then you must wait until Saturday where the market at Rua Frei Leandro in Jardim Botanico serves up some high quality food items. For the fans of organic produce, one of the few markets is the one at Rua do Russel in Gloria. For a complete schedule consult the listing below.

Produce stalls are often adorned with colorful and tasty fruits, photo by Martin Kocandrle.

Most markets get going early; indeed you can often see the vendors setting up their stalls at four or five in the morning. The freshest goods will always be available in the morning, and depending on how perishable your items are it might be better to arrive early before the afternoon heat kicks in. However as the day progresses vendors are eager to offload their excess cargo and will often lower their prices to induce buyers to purchase more.

Another difference from the grocery stores is that the markets do not have set prices, which allows vendors to adjust prices according to their will. Depending on your Portuguese skills this may be a good or a bad thing as you can often negotiate a deal acceptable to both parties. You need not worry that vendors are out to rip you off, but it is always good to ask for the price before reaching for your wallet.

The wide array of street markets in Rio provides a great opportunity to sample the taste and culture of Rio and other parts of Brazil. No matter what you are searching for, the lively atmosphere and interactions with locals will enlighten your understanding of Brazilian language and customs.

Following is a list of some street markets by neighborhood:
Monday
Ipanema: Rua Henrique Dumont
Leme: Rua Gustavo Sampaio
Botafogo:Rua Vicente de Souza

Tuesday
Ipanema: Pca Gal Osório
Botafogo:Rua Barão de Macaubas
Flamengo: Rua Particular Infoshopping / Rua: Do Catete
Tijuca: Rua Pinheiro Guimarães

Wednesday
Vila Isabel: Rua Mendes Tavares
Estácio: Rua Sampaio Ferraz
Copacabana: Prc Edmundo Bittencourt
Humaitá: Rua Maria Eugenia
Botafogo: Praca Nicarágua

Thursday
Glória: Rua Conde Lages
Copacabana: Rua Ronald de Carvalho / Min. Viveiros de Castro
Leblon: Rua Gal. Urquiza
Barra da Tijuca: Praca José Bernardino

Friday
Santa Tereza: Rua Felício dos Santos
Tijuca: Rua Alzira Brandão
Gávea: Pca Santos Dumont
Botafogo: Rua Rodrigo de Brito
Laranjeiras: VDT Jardel Filho
Ipanema: Praca Nossa Senhora da Paz

Saturday
Botafogo: Rua Paulo Barreto
Jardim Botânico: Rua Frei Leandro
Centro:Rua Tadeu Kosciusco / Carlos Sampaio
Laranjeiras: Rua Profesor Ortiz Monteiro

Sunday
São Cristovão: Rua Gal Bruce
Urca: Pca Tenente Gil Guilherme
Lagoa: Av. Lineu de Paula Machado
Barra da Tijuca: Pca São Perpetuo
Glória: Av. Augusto Severo
Copacabana: Praca Serzedelo Correia