The Shoe Snob

Corthay Visit Part 2: London

2012-01-30T12:35:00.000Z

Back in late July of 2011, I went to Paris for a quick business trip and happened to have enough time to pop into the Corthay shop in hopes to meet the legend himself, Mr. Pierre Corthay. Unfortunately, at the time, he was away and therefore was unable to meet him but did meet his brother, who is also very much involved in the company. While it was still a lovely visit, I knew that there would always be a 'next time' for the opportunity to meet the man himself! That being, on Tuesday of last week, I was scrolling through Facebook or something of that nature (maybe a blog) and happened to notice that Mr. Pierre Corthay was coming to London for a trunk show on the Friday of that week. I knew that this was my chance, not only to meet him but to finally check out their new shop in London that had just opened last December, of which I had been meaning to go in order to give you all some info! Therein lied my opportunity to kill two birds with one stone!

When I arrived there the shop was actually closed (it was about 9:50am). I was a bit worried (as they don't list the opening hours on the website) that maybe they wouldn't open until 11am or somewhere along that time (they are in Knightsbridge after all...). Luckily, I had my smartphone on me and utilized it to find the phone number to the shop. I quickly called and happen to get ahold of the store manager, Mr. Francois Pourcher, who kindly ran upstairs to let me in. He took my to the bottom level of the store, where low-and-behold, was Mr. Pierre Corthay himself! It was a bit surreal finally meeting him and I was taken back a bit by the error in my preconceived notion of how he may have been, in the sense that most (shoe) artists (in my opinion) are a bit reserved (which can be seen as cold) when you first meet them. Yet, Pierre was extremely friendly and nice, and happened to actually know who I was (quite possibly due to my visit to the Paris shop), which was quite a surprise and a comforting feeling all at the same time. We began to chat a bit, mainly about his shoes, my goals in starting my own line and how business has been for him. While the chatting was brief (as time was of the essence, for us both), it was nice to finally be able to meet the man behind some of the most lovely shoes in the world.

After the quick chat with Pierre, a client came to visit him, so I began to talk to Francois and the young patina/shine artist (Thomas) that creates much of the magical coloring that you see on Corthay shoes. They told me that in order to give the coloring that you see on the two crocodile shoes within this post, the patina artist spends a total of 8 hours coloring in each scale one-by-one. Talk about a meticulous job. But in order to create art (as these beauties are), one must do so with precision and patience. That being, you can imagine (especially since the young gentleman was only 23) that I was insanely impressed! But when passion is involved, age no longer becomes an issue, only drive and ambition to be the best that you can.

After the quick chat with the two gentleman, I had to be off in order to not become too late for work. But I have to say that I was duly impressed with the visit and how immensely kind and generous everyone there was. That being, if you are ever in the area I highly recommend a visit, if nothing more than to admire the beautiful shoes and possibly see an artist at work....

miniature model (as long as my hand)

Shoes Of The Week - Alexandre Portejoie

2012-01-27T14:46:00.001Z

As much as you don't see burgundy shoes as often as I would like to, I can tell you that burgundy boots are even far less common, yet to me are ever so more appealing than what you do actually see on the shelves. This model here is by a French shoe designer/maker, named Alexandre Portejoie, who is quite known for his out-of-this-world creations. This boot, while being still a bit on the 'forward' side with its pointy toe and decoration, is one of his tamest creations, believe it or not. And what drives me to it, aside from the lovely color created from the patina, is the big, heavy duty sole that it has been made with. You see, while I don't like bulky shoes (or bulky soles for that matter), I much less like the idea of it being snowy or real rainy out and having to wear some Red Wing boot to save my shoes from being destroyed. That being, a beautiful boot like this with a nice, heavy sole on it (still cut to look dressy) allows one to not only face that awful weather but be able to do so in smart clothing without having to look like a hiker in his rugged boots....

What I Am Wearing

2012-01-26T15:51:00.000Z

This Prince Albert loafer was the very first pair of shoes that I ever made by hand. It was just a rejected upper that was lying around and happened to be somewhat near my size (although I believe that it must have been for a 8-8.5UK). Stefano (Bemer) told me that I could use it to make a pair of shoes, but at the time I did not have a last of my own. I therefore had scoured through his random last models in hope to find something that was near my foot size. And not all of the lasts had sizes written on them, so I pretty much just had to eyeball it. Luckily I found one that actually looked quite good with this upper and happened to fit me in the length, but being just a tad bit wide (as I have a narrow foot). Because of that I break it out every now and then but don't wear it as much as I would like to. However, since having made this, I fell in love with the idea of having a Prince Albert loafer that was a bit more casual (i.e. not for formal wear and having a proper sole), that one could wear with smart trousers and even jeans and be able to show off a little bit of sock. But you really don't see that made anywhere and that's why I decided to introduce one into my collection, probably one of the models that I am most excited about.....

P.S. Don't judge me on the knot of my bow tie, it's so thick that it's hard to make nice....I know that it's sloppy looking!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Trousers: Zara
Sweater (Jumper): Primark
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Socks: Gieves & Hawkes

Cool Shoes, Cool Clothes, Cool Ties....Cool Blog

2012-01-25T13:43:00.000Z

These days, I unfortunately don't have a lot of time to peruse through blogs as much as I would like to, let alone read them, which is a shame really, as I believe that blogs these days are among the leaders in providing useful information, particularly within the men's style industry. But, every now and then (while searching for photos of shoes), I stumble across a diamond in the rough. It's not actually how I found the blog, Monsiuer Bespoke, of which you can credit all of the photos shown in this post, but am glad that I found it nonetheless. While the blog appears to be new (having only one page of 'older posts') and is in Italian, I can assure you that I don't think I have ever seen such an array of amazing outfits and shoes all in one spot. Granted, it would appear the writer is an acquaintance of Mr. Bestetti and therefore favors his footwear at the current moment (hence all of the photos) but also seemed to have the inside scoop on all of the coolest outfits at the most recent Pitti Uomo.

Shoes by: Riccardo Bestetti

Aside from writing a nice blog with cool pictures, Mr. Cerruti (the author) is apparently also the proprietor of bespoke tie firm in Milan, called Passagio Cravatte. Most of you don't know this about me, but apart from shoes, ties are another one of my sicknesses (back up to around 60 now, before I gave away 40 prior to coming to Europe). That being, when I looked at the site and the ties that have been made, I was incredibly impressed! What's cool about the company is that each tie is unique to the individual, where you go to the shop, pick a cloth that you fancy (as well as a bunch of other important things) and then have the tie made to your liking. I can tell you when I make my first bit of real money, I am going to visit this shop and have a heyday! Well, I thought that you all might enjoy something new to look at, something that provides a bit more ideas in the suit department and something can help you learn a little bit of the Italian language!

http://monsieurbespoke.blogspot.com/

http://www.passaggiocravatte.com/

Unique Shoe Designs

2012-01-23T12:29:00.000Z

Shoe Above: J.FitzPatrick

When talking about designing shoes, I commonly hear the expression, "Everything under the sun has been done." And while I generally tend to agree with it (on a grand scale), I still believe that there are little tweaks that can be done to a shoe, here and there, that will minutely (and yet immensely) separate it from all of the rest. For instance, the shoe above which is another one of my prototypes, has a penny strap that extends all the way back to the heel. This was something that I had never seen before, yet had always wondered what it might look like, being that I like to use multiple materials in my shoes. I wanted to be able to mix it up somehow, having the strap be a different material than the rest of the shoe. At first, I wanted to hold this close to my chest, as it was a unique design and did not want anyone ripping me off before I could release my line, but as I have been blabbing for 2 years now about getting this line off of the ground, and doing so has been slower than I had anticipated, I couldn't help but show this to all of you to let you know that things are truly still in the motions.....slowly but surely!

Clearly I am not the only one that has done a unique design. Almost every maker does one in some way or another whether it is with a row of stitching and how it is positioned, the colors and/or materials that they may use, or how one might change the aesthetics of one of the pieces of the pattern (cap/quarter/vamp etc.). You will find it in the subtle details that will define that makers style. Sometimes these things can be hard to spot, sometimes they are quite obvious. Nevertheless, they are always nice for me (so long as it's not overbearingly ostentatious) as it then represents a new way to do a shoe.... I remember back in 2006, the first time that I ever saw a Gaziano & Girling shoe, in Robb Report magazine. I can't say for sure, but I think it was either the Gable or the Regent, and it was the first time that I had ever seen that pointed (^-shaped) toe cap. Back then, I wasn't so knowledgeable about shoes, as it was really the beginning point for me in the fine footwear industry, so you can imagine how blown away I was to see something so unique when all I had previously known was the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, as it was the end-all-be-all shoe in America. And even though I can't pinpoint the exact model that it was, the moment was still so vivid for me, as it represented the day that I truly chose to go after my dreams, telling myself that I wanted to emulate G&G by making good quality shoes that stood out from the rest (in terms of design).

Corthay - Unique stitch design on facing & bottom hole punch

Jan Kielman - Unique stitching leading to back of heel

Imai Hiroki - oxford like slip-on

Marc Guyot - stitching and strap unique

Along with dress boots being something that I predict will be big in the next year or two, I also predict that you will see more and more makers trying their hardest to come out with designs that separate themselves from the rest. Clearly this is obvious, because you could not just come out with a line doing shoes that simply look like everyone else's (and be successful) but more in the way that designers/makers, I feel, will more and more try and give little twists to existing classics. Classics are classics for a reason but that does not mean that they are already perfected....little minute details could make a classic better than it already is...of course, this will always be in the humble opinion of the eye of the beholder. But nevertheless, for me, it is always extremely fascinating to see how a designer interprets a shoe with his unique design. That my friends is (to me) the most interesting thing about the shoe industry....seeing how interpretations differ. Hence the reason why each country has their own individual look when it comes to their shoes!

Saint Crispins - All around design is unique

Saion - design on facing/coloring the sole

J.M. Weston - all around design, many things mixed together

Altan Bottier - Point on tongue of shoe

What I Am Wearing

2012-01-21T13:26:00.001Z

I have never really been a big fan of pairing sport coats with trousers, but since I have a few jackets, I try and force myself as much as I can. The reason that I am not such a big fan of it, is the fact that I feel that the outfit always seems to look a bit jumbled, considering the fact that you don't tend to match the color of your trousers to your jacket, which leaves you pairing many colors together. I do have to say though, that this is something that the Italian population has down to a "T," and something that I truly envy them for. But I guess that with money (and time), I will only get better, as I will purposefully coordinate the outfit at the store and then buy it, as opposed to buying separate pieces (like I do) and trying to work them out at home during my morning rush. Nevertheless, utilizing outfits like this (on the more dress-casual side) allows me to wear my loafers more, which I am currently in a phase with....

Shoes: Gieves & Hawkes (by Edward Green and dyed by Paulus Bolten)
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: Ted Baker
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Shoes Of The Week - Bespoke by D.W. Frommer II

2012-01-20T12:59:00.001Z

Hand-sewn shoemaking may not be as prevalent in the public eye as it was 60-80 years ago (when shoemaking machinery was not as readily available), but the more time I spend in the shoe industry, the more I discover that it is still very much alive, only that it is on a much more private (and/or smaller) scale. And every time I hear of someone trying to find a course or apprenticeship in order to go learn, or someone that has simply taught themselves out of pure passion, I find myself smiling, knowing that people still care about quality shoes. And that, my friends, brings me to the subject at hand. While I have known about Mr. D.W. Frommer II for some time now (perusing the pages of Style Forum), it wasn't until I saw these pictures that I understood the magnitude of his making abilities. Having been a western boot maker for 40+ years (and being 66 years old), it was only until 5 years ago that he translated his knowledge in bootmaking and took a stab at shoemaking, in order to have something to enjoy during retirement. After 5 years (which is not long in this profession) you can see just far along he has come, especially with this beautiful balmoral oxford! For more information on Mr. D.W. Frommer II, you can email him or visit his website.

Email: frommer@bootmaker.com

Website: http://www.bootmaker.com/bespoke.htm

Riccardo Bestetti Ready To Wear Collection

2012-01-19T15:55:00.000Z

It's been a long time coming, but the day has finally arrived: Bestetti introduces his Ready-To-Wear collection at none other than the infamous Pitti Uomo. These pictures are obviously not from there, but are a few models to wet your beaks nonetheless and see what he is up to and what you can expect from his line. As you can see he very much keeps in tune with his bespoke footwear, offering models that have the mouth-quenching curves and lines that give resemblance to a handmade shoe. I assume (but am not sure) that he used lasts that were either identical (or very darn close) to his bespoke footwear. The only difference is that these beauties are going to be made with a Blake construction. But fret not, the Goodyear welted counterparts will be arriving in the near future... While I still believe these are in the production stages, having not quite yet been finalized nor sold to any stores, they will be coming out in the price range of around 400 Euros. While still not cheap (as they shouldn't be), it now allows some of you dreamers (such as myself) to be able to finally get a piece of footwear that has been made/designed/influenced by none other than Mr. Bestetti himself... Will update when I receive more information...Enjoy!

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Saddle Shoes

2012-01-18T16:41:00.001Z

I never tire of seeing how many different ways a saddle shoe can be executed, especially when the color combinations are quite bold and unusual, such as this model by John Lobb. Buts what's funny about it is that I plucked this from a French website (Souliers), thinking that it was some bespoke (or at least MTO) model, as the title of the photo had the word 'customisee,' (apparently I am much worse at French than I thought) but then noticed the big, fat circled "R" on the inside which usually indicates a reject model. If these are both the case, it's such a shame...I wonder what the customer did not like about them? Nevertheless, I find them stunning and would gladly take them off John Lobb's hands......(it's nice to dream about being rich). In particular, what I find most appealing and unique is the perforations on the saddle. To me, they are simply and effortlessly amazing! Something that is so small in design yet so big in separating itself from the others....that's what good design is all about....!

First it was colors....Now it will be boots!

2012-01-17T17:14:00.002Z

For those of you that have been long time readers of the blog, you will know that I have been a big advocate of seeing more abnormal coloring in footwear. Back when I started this blog (in Feb. 2010), I made some predictions indicating that within a year or two, colored shoes (outside of brown and black) were going to be a lot more prevalent in the industry. 2011 marked a big push for that actually coming true. More and more brands were coming out with shoes that did not really fit their overall historical image (at least not in my opinion), such as the shoes made by Edward Green for Hardy Amies (shown above & below). Two quintessential English brands, rooted in the idea of what it means to be a British gentleman, came out with a collaboration that not only blew my mind aesthetically, but also in the sense that for me, it was almost like stepping a bit outside of their boundary to create something a bit more fun and eclectic. And that was the beauty about it....brands that were evolving with the times, creating something that might be a bit out of their norm but beautiful and timeless nonetheless!

Picture Below: Edward Green for Hardy Amies (courtesy of The Shoe Buff)

And while that trend (colors) has come, and will hopefully be here to stay, the next big thing that I think will populate the shelves throughout the year (and next) will be dress boots. There used to be a time --think Victorian/Edwardian eras-- where boots, such as a nice balmoral boot, were the norm and no one wore low cut shoes, as we do now. Granted, I know that this happened to be the case for more of a practical purpose rather than personal choice (due to the streets being solely dirt and therefore lacking pavement). But even though that was the case, I found this look to be quite a bit more intriguing....and elegant. Who is to say that a dress boot can't be just as elegant as a low cut shoe when paired with a suit? I quite enjoy wearing my Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore' with either a flannel suit or my three-piece, and would even pair other one's (if I had any) so long as the boot was an elegant shape that compliments dress attire. And I could be wrong, but I think more and more people are starting to think like this...

Boots by Corthay

Boots by George Cleverley, Picture Courtesy of: Leather Soul

Everything in the footwear and clothing industry seems to always reinvent itself in some form or another, whether it be toe shapes, colors used, type of style like brogues, boots etc and in my time I have not seen as much enthusiasm for dress boots as I do now. But I don't feel that we are quite at the peak of it all. Soon, if not F/W 2012 or 2013, you will see far more boots offered in collections, more color combinations presented, and if everything goes according to my plan, more materials other than leather being used. And the hope, for me, is that more of you will jump on board and desire these boots. Because, it's time for a nice change, a time to see more elegant boots presented and people wearing them proudly! And even if you go from a boring black cap-toe oxford shoe, to a boring black cap-toe oxford boot, it will be a step in the right direction!

Boots by: Riccardo Bestetti

Wholecut Mid-Top boots by: Imai Hiroki

Shoes Of The Week - Saddle Monks by Saint Crispins

2012-01-13T12:26:00.000Z

These are hands-down among the nicest shoes that I have truly ever seen in my entire life, and I mean it! Even though Saint Crispins shoes are incredibly expensive for RTW/MTO standards (please read comment below to understand why), I have to say, that from the looks of things, they are worth every last penny. Not only do the leathers look superb, but the pattern-making and minute detailing are without a doubt, top-notch! I really can't help it but there is not one bad thing that I can say about this shoe, except that I am truly and utterly envious of the person who owns them! The apron stitch is perfect and this is one thing that really ruins a shoe for me. If the apron stitch is not spot-on, then the shoe is ruined, which is reason why I don't particularly like apron toed shoes. The fact that they added a saddle on a double monk just makes them go up 100 points in my book as many of you know that I am a saddle freak! And to top it off, the coloring of the leather is phenomenal. It may not be to everyone's liking, but you can't deny that the patina applied was nothing short of amazing, as getting an olive green like this, is very hard to do....Anyway, enough of my praising, I think that the shoes speak for themselves. My hat is tipped to the owner of these lovely beauties!

Picture Courtesy Of: Rugged Old Salt

Today's Favorites - Alden Blue Suede Tassel Loafers

2012-01-12T14:46:00.001Z

Sometimes I almost wish that I did not have a favorite color, because that way I would be a little less aggressive in gravitating towards the same things, and therefore have a wardrobe that is a little bit more varied. But I do have a favorite color and as you can probably gather from the statement prior and the picture above, it is blue. And because I love blue so much and wished that it was used on the feet of more men on the planet, you can understand why I am always talking about blue shoes and putting them on the blog, such as these lovely beauties by Alden. And while I love a blue calf leather, I think that I almost prefer shoes in a blue suede. Something about the suede just seems to give the color a bit more depth, a bit more of a rich feel to it, which is why I feel that the blue goes better with jeans and blue calf leather doesn't.... Whatever the case, the fact remains, I love blue and blue shoes and for all of you that share the same sentiment....be ready for a few new executions in the idea of blue shoes....

Picture Courtesy Of: Tassels

Another Go At A Personal Patina

2012-01-11T17:25:00.000Z

A little while ago, I had found myself at pub after work, as is a very common thing to do here in England. While I had a good time and can't complain, I noticed that the next morning, it appeared that I had spilled a bit of alcoholic substance on my shoe and it had unfortunately left a lovely stain for me. Now this pair, the 'Dryden' by Allen Edmonds, is my oldest dress shoe, the first one I ever purchased with my own money. So, needless to say I was quite upset because I love the original color of them and did not want to ever change that. But I could not live with having that stain always there yet knew that at least they were not ruined completely, considering the fact that I am now not afraid to dye my shoes with the possibility of consequence.

I had just dyed a pair of my loafers brown (and therefore did not want to do it again), and pretty much have everything else in an oxford with the exception of an all black shoe, so I decided that black would be the ticket. But I wanted to have them slightly unique looking. I thought it would be cool if I could dye the toe blue (some sort of royal or around that shade) and try to fade it to black at the defined cap brogue line. As you can see, I started with the blue on the cap (which ended up being a lot darker than anticipated) and then started using the black for the rest of the shoe, of which I idiotically forgot to take pictures of. It ended up being quite a pain because the black dye that I was using was awful and did not seep into the leather almost whatsoever. I therefore, built up as much as I could with the black to create a base and then went over the black area with the blue dye (of which was slightly higher quality, getting 'into' the leather). Because of that, I almost ended up with a uniform black shoe. It looked a bit dull so I thought that if I stripped off the toe a bit with some spirit (alcohol), then it would give it some more character. Needless to say, it did so, but not in the way that I was hoping for. It almost became a more aqua blue than any shade of royal.

While I am not disappointed with the turnout, I do wish that I did not spill any beer on my shoe..... :-(

What I Am Wearing

2012-01-10T16:08:00.000Z

It's funny how you will always wish that you wore the opposite of what you have to. Most people who wear suits everyday probably wish that they could dress down a bit and yet I, who does dress down the majority of days, wish that I could wear suits more often. The reason being, is that I quite like the look of suit jacket-shirt-tie. The way that they fall together, to me, is just so beautiful yet very masculine. I also quite like putting on a light sweater (jumper) over a button-up shirt and tie (as shown above), but find myself getting quite bored with it, as of lately. Yet because it is cold, I can't use my waistcoats, and can't really dress any other way, as I have to wear a tie. To be honest, it would either be suits with bespoke shoes or jeans with trainers. This in-between dress/casual type of attire is getting to me!! But what can I do....buy more suits I guess and just hope that I don't get any polish on my trousers...

Shoes: Allen Edmonds 'Hampstead'
Sweater (jumper): Primark
Shirt: Primark
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers: H&M

To Go Bespoke Or To Not Go Bespoke

2012-01-09T12:47:00.000Z

Bespoke model made by my friend, for his friend

Let me first define what bespoke means. By definition from a dictionary, in what would be termed as 'old speak,' it would mean 'spoken for.' As in, a garment that is spoken for by someone, is owned and was created specifically for them and no one else. It will fit them perfectly (at least in theory) and should not fit anyone else in that same manner as we are all shaped differently.

Now that we have the definition out of the way, we can begin to talk about what it means to go bespoke, whether or not it is better than RTW or MTO and whether or not it is worth it's price. First off, you will have to bear in mind that I have made bespoke shoes, I own several pairs of them and wear them regularly, so in a sense, I am somewhat bias on the subject at hand, but will try to be as objective as I can be. And to also make a point of clarification, let's say that bespoke is strictly going to be something that was made by hand, not by machine, as I believe that this coincides with the true definition of what it means to be a bespoke product (at least in terms of shoes and suits...).

Riccardo Bestetti bespoke model

Is it worth it?

To answer this question will very much depend upon you, the person who is in prospect of buying them. You will have to ask yourself several questions:

1. Do I have messed up feet that cause me pain?
2. Is it extremely hard to fit my foot into a ready to wear shoe?
3. Can I afford it without blinking an eye?
4. Do I care about what goes on my feet?

You will usually find that the common consensus is as follows: If your feet are fairly straight forward (i.e. they are normal and can fit very comfortably into most RTW shoes, then you truly do not NEED a bespoke shoe. Now this has nothing to do with wanting one but simply the fact that if you have good feet then you do not fall under the category of people that get bespoke for health purposes. Because of this, being worth it or not will be entirely up to how you perceive the importance of fit, design, and the ultimate in superior quality. I cannot answer this for you, but can tell you that the bespoke shoes that I own, fit me better than the rest of the shoes that I own, and because of that are therefore more comfortable. But then again, I do have a slight problematic foot that is relatively flat, narrow and very low volume, which makes it hard to fit into RTW shoes that don't have narrow widths.

Gaziano & Girling bespoke shoe

Why is it so much more expensive (and time consuming)?

People often seem incapable of fathoming the concept of paying upwards of $3000 for a pair of shoes, yet will happily pay that and even more on a suit....I have never understood this, but will hopefully be able to explain to you why the prices are as so. First off, you have to understand that it is rare that a bespoke maker is able to do the entire process all by himself/herself. You will find that many jobs these days (like closing) are outsourced. And more times than not you don't have all of these people under one roof, so therefore time constraints start to take place as the shoemaker finds themselves waiting for others.

The process is as such:

1. The last maker (and/or pattern maker) comes to measure your foot. At that same time you decide what shoe you would like to have (i.e. design) and look at the coloring, leather, materials etc. that you like. If you choose something unique, you are creating more work for the pattern maker who will have to cut a new and unique piece of work.

2. They then take those measurements to create a precise mold of your foot, what is called a 'last'

3. After that, the pattern maker will design your pattern by way of the last. That means he uses your specific last to then create your specific pattern. If this design is something unique to you, the pattern maker might take extra long to get it right.

4. After the pattern is cut, they then cut out the leather and give it to the closer to sew all together. This part is usually outsourced so therefore they need to wait on them to complete it.

5. Once the upper is sewn together, they will attach it temporarily to the last to create a trial-fit shoe for you, to make sure that the last fits the way that you would like it to. This process involves you coming back or them coming to you, which increases the total amount of time for the process.

6. Once you have sorted this out (assuming there are no adjustments to be made), you then have to have the shoe 'made,' by the maker (this is the bit that I learned, and as you can see is just one part of the entire process).

Let's just assume that before taxes a bespoke shoe costs £2500 (which is close to the average out here in England). Now let's assume that at best, the shoemakers (owners of the company) take £1000 profit out of that, after all expenses. Now let's just assume that it's a two man firm and they can make 100 pairs a year (which is a very good number in bespoke shoe terms). That equates to £100,000 a year, but divided by 2, coming to a total of £50,000/year for each person. Now, this is all best case scenario, so let's just say that this is a good year for a pair of bespoke shoemakers. So, considering the amount of work put into a year's worth of doing this, it's not all that glorified in terms of making A LOT of money, is it? So, when you ask yourself why a bespoke shoe cost so much, you will see that a lot of work goes into it, a lot of hands touch it and there is not as much profit as you may think....it's far more for the love of making quality shoes then it is for the ambition of becoming rich!

Shoes Below: George Cleverley "Churchill" model, one bespoke, one RTW, can you tell which one?
(Pictures Courtesy Of: Leather Soul)

Can you tell the difference?

Okay, well let's now assume that you don't have problem feet and that money is not an issue. Do you still go for bespoke? Well, I certainly would and the reasons are because, for one, I am a shoe freak. Not only do I want a shoe that no one else has, a shoe that is unique to me, my taste and compliments my wardrobe perfectly but also a shoe that stands out as being made from the best materials around. You instantly see this when you see a bespoke shoe. It's not like you can spot them a mile away on someone's feet but when up close and personal with one, the distinct qualities that make it bespoke are evident and to me speak wonders about the shoe and the person, i.e. someone who appreciates fine footwear. And maybe I am bias saying this because I have spent so much time around both bespoke and RTW shoes, but not only can you tell the difference aesthetically but also in terms of psychologically, as I believe that wearing something that is made for one's self provides a feeling of pride and happiness, much stronger than any RTW shoe can give you....but hey, that's just my opinion! You will have to decide this for yourself...

Shoes Below: Gaziano & Girling (one bespoke & one RTW)

Shoes Of The Week - Lodger Jodhpur Boots

2012-01-06T16:05:00.002Z

It's always nice being able to find a shoe that it is truly unique in it's design. I take that back, it is truly amazing to find something that is unique in it's design and looks great. I see a lot of crap design that tried way too hard to go outside of the box to create something unique and ends up becoming something that looks alien or along those lines. But this jodhpur boot here, by Lodger, is simply amazing. I have never actually owned a jodhpur boot myself but have always appreciated them. I even incorporated one within my collection because I know that they are a popular model here in England, but I do not believe that I have ever seen one that I like more than this one. It's so simple in it's look and thought, yet so intriguing and unique. Not only the fact that this jodhpur is created on a derby style, but the fact that it crosses in the front and even more unique, has a stitching (seam) that goes all the way back to the middle of the heel, which is virtually unheard of in classical pattern making. But you put all of these things together and it creates something that is beautiful and very impressive.....I would have a pair of these in every color!

Today's Favorites: Customer's Berluti Shoes

2012-01-04T16:53:00.001Z

I never seem to tire of old Berluti shoes. Every time I have to shine them, even though they are not my favorite shoe, I seem to enjoy them more than anything else. Partly because the leather shines so easily and therefore makes my job a lot more pleasurable, but mainly because of the fact that even when they come to me all beat up and knackered beyond belief, after a bit of polish and elbow grease, they become like pieces of antiquity art. And while I am sure they look stunning when a customer just purchases them, I can't help but feel that their true beauty lies within a few years of them aging. The patina seems to become much more intricate and can even be intensified or taken down a notch with a bit of polish. Being the glutton that I am for unique coloring, I always do my best to bring out the undertones in the leather......which only makes beautiful shoes like this, look even better!

What I Am Wearing

2012-01-03T15:30:00.001Z

The beauty about having shoes that have fabric in the upper, is that if the fabric is relatively mild (such as this flannel is), then they are quite easy to compliment most things. A tweed on the other hand, might prove a bit trickier. As it comes into the cold and wet season, I will not be able to break these bad boys out as much as I would like to, but I can at least look forward to those wonderfully winter days where the sun is shining and it's below freezing. While my toes might get gangrene from the cold, I won't have to worry about the rain from damaging the flannel..... While this shoe won't be in my first collection, nor any for that matter as it was not made by my factory, I promise that for the future, as I spend more time in the industry, I will somehow incorporate something of this nature either into a collection or on an MTO basis. Because I know that I am not the only one who enjoys a bit of fabric in their shoes...

Shoes: Designed by me, made on the DG 70 last, with the deco finishing at the G&G factory.
Coat: Burberry
Trousers: H&M
Undershirt: Primark
Jumper: Some Neapolitan brand
Tie: Salvatore Ferragamo
Scarf: Was gift so I don't know..

2012: The Year "Made In..." Moniker Loses It's Strength

2012-01-02T12:47:00.000Z

It used to be a point of pride telling someone where your shoes were made. Especially if your shoes happened to come from your own country. It was more of an exotic appeal telling someone (if you were American) that your shoes were made in Europe. But now, these things don't really exist anymore. I, frankly, don't really care what country a pair of shoes were made in, so long as I know that the construction is good, the leather is high grade and the design looks good on the last. With all of those things up to my standard, the shoe could be made in Antarctica for all I care, and I believe that more of us are feeling like this. The reality is, no one should care what country your shoes are made in so long as the quality of the craftsmanship and leather, is high. It's a false (and naive) belief, thinking your shoes 'must' be good because they were made in such and such acclaimed shoe making country.

Shoes Above By: DC Lewis

50-60 years ago, it used to be a guarantee that if your shoes were made in America, England or Italy, that you must have been wearing a beautiful, well-made shoe. But now it's no mystery that certain factories in Italy, either have 80-90% of the shoe fabricated in China, India or Brazil and then send it over to Italy to finish off the last 10-20%, slapping on the "Made In Italy" moniker and allowing the world to believe it was a well-made shoe produced in an artisan country. That's called hustling at it's finest. But we, the people, are (hopefully) becoming more aware of these things, these hustles and are wising up to the fact that good shoes can be made in countries that you would have least expected. And what, anyway, separates a country from being good shoe producers to not? Why were England and Italy rooted in fine footwear? Because at one point and time, creating a product was not about making money, it was about creating something that you could be proud of, something that could make your country known for. And it didn't hurt that men from these countries, truly used to appreciate the art of dressing well and therefore took pride in creating pieces that represented that.

Shoes Above By: Run Of The Mill

But now you see that many companies live off of a name, an idea, a tradition that they no longer stick to in reality, only in false theory. The idea of creating a great product at a great price has changed, and the only thing that high level CEO's (as many companies have been bought out by conglomerates) care about is profit margin and taking the necessary shortcuts to maximize that margin. It's sad really, but I have a feeling that this will change as people are starting to see that the shoes that they have been purchasing for 20-30 years, no longer feel as good as they used to, look as good as they used to and no longer last as long as they used to. They see that their favorite brand has shirked quality for quantity and money and therefore need to find another brand to make up for them. And this is where you see an upsurge in small brands coming out, like DC Lewis and Run Of The Mill, brands that appear to care about quality and honest price control. And I believe that brands like these two, others similar and mine will be the new wave of the future in shoes. At least I hope so......

Happy New Year to all!! Let's make this a year to remember!

Sincerely,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Crockett & Jones Boot

2011-12-30T11:45:00.000Z

It's funny because the last time I was in Spain, working out my prototypes, I was thinking of the different combinations of colors/materials to use on my balmoral boots and a medium brown paired with a snuff suede was precisely what I had in mind, until I saw these boots by Crockett & Jones..... While my boot is quite different, aesthetically in shape and pattern, and using similar colors is by no means copying, being the weird individual that I am, I am now having second thoughts about using these colors as I do not want have something that is too similar to someone else's shoe/boot. At least not for my first collection....but then again, I have a couple of months to think about it and when my prototypes are all finalized, I am planning on giving all of you a chance to influence the different color options that my shoes will come in.

But anyway, back to the subject at hand. When I saw these, I was pleased nonetheless, not only because I like them and enjoy shining shoes that I like, but also because these shoes come from an individual that appreciates nice shoes and it always makes me happy to meet people like this. This is already the second pair of his that I have put on the blog and am sure that there will be more to come...

I won't be posting until at least Sunday, so I wanted to wish all of you not only a fantastic weekend but a wonderful New Years!! Enjoy the festivities......and until 2012!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

It's All In The Detail

2011-12-29T17:23:00.000Z

Picture Courtesy Of: Moda Image

One of my dear blog readers, who frequents London as business calls, just happen to pop in today for an updated chat on life, shoes and the future of my career. Because he happened to visit me in the flesh, I showed him the pictures (via my camera phone) that I have of my upcoming collection. The pictures show what is current with my prototype production, but we still have a month or so before they are complete. Nevertheless, he was able to get an idea of my collection to come and a feeling of how it differs from others while at the same time provides a feeling of familiarity: 'classics with a twist.'

We discussed that in a saturated market, where everything under the sun has already been done, the one thing that differentiates one another, is the minute detailing. That being, when I saw these loafers (above), by Aubercy, they immediately stood out to me. Granted, some people would not appreciate this. But for someone like me who has seen 10 million different pairs of shoes is his life and purposefully looks at them, this would have just been another loafer (of a trillion) in calf and suede, had it not that the red stitching. But because it does have this contrasted stitching, it no longer is one of a trillion, it becomes one of one (or maybe 2 or 3 etc). It stands out and makes me stop and say, "now there is something different, something worth pausing to give a double-take."

And this is what I hope to do for all of you. To give you something that stands out, not in an loud or ostentatious way, but in a way that is discreet yet noticeable. A way that says that you, the wearer, appreciate your shoes and the small details in life, the little ones that make us stand out from the crowd....

What I Am Wearing

2011-12-28T14:34:00.001Z

It's been quite a lovely Fall/Winter season here in London, weather-wise, which has allowed me to wear things that would be otherwise saved for the Spring/Summer, such as this light gray Prince of Wales (POW) suit. While I think that I have only been able to wear it once (as it was just recently completed), I am eagerly awaiting the warmer weather to be able to flaunt it's beauty. I had always wanted a POW suit and now that I finally have one, I am excited to see all of the wonderful combinations that I can create with it. Here, unfortunately, I went the boring route with my black loafers, as even though the weather might have been relatively nice, you just never know when it might start raining. And to take a chance with my shoes, for me, is just a no-no. But as soon as Spring comes, you can bet that the browns, blues, suedes and tans will be the only shoes that I will be pairing with this suit....

Shoes: Miro by Septieme Largeur
Suit: Old bespoke, altered for me by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Can't remember, but not Primark this time...from TK Maxx (in US = TJ Maxx)
Tie: Either XMI or Ike Behar

A Return To Italy (and Stefano Bemer)

2011-12-27T12:49:00.000Z

Over my quick holiday visit to the in-laws in Perugia, Italy, I managed to pop over to my old town of Firenze (where I once lived for circa 1 year). I had the intention of going back to Stefano Bemer's shop (where I learned to make bespoke shoes) and saying hi to all of my old colleagues, as well as hopefully snapping some pictures of any new models made. Being that plans don't always happen they way that you want them to (and that fact that my wife was waiting for me at a nearby cafe) I was unable to take any pictures, as my time was rushed having to explain to my friends what I am currently up to while trying my best to speak in rusty, broken Italian. It was quite unfortunate, though, as Stefano was not around and I was unable to tell him of my progress, of which I hope that he would have been proud to say that it all started at his shop, my entrance into the bespoke shoe realm.... Nevertheless, I remembered that while living there, I had taken many pictures of the shop that I don't believe I ever posted on the blog, and thought that now would be the perfect time to do so.

If you look at the picture at the very top, you can see that two of the bespoke shoes that I made (#2 & #5) came from the patterns of the shoes second from the left and third from the right, only that I slightly altered minute details such as coloring, piping thickness and last shape. Looking back at these pictures (which only make up a small amount of the entire collection), I must say that Stefano Bemer, while relatively unknown by the majority of people, makes some of the most beautiful shoes that I have ever seen! He is excellent, in my opinion, at pairing certain patterns (designs) with certain last shapes as well as putting together wonderful color combinations. With that in mind, I still wonder why you don't find his shoes selling at more outlets around the world....

While I had a great time in Italy (living there and learning) and would not have traded that experience for anything in the world, I realized that during my short and nostalgic visit back, that I have truly found myself in probably the absolute best place that I could be for making my goals come into fruition (that being London). It makes one realize how funny and coincidental life can be. And if you would have asked me 6-7 years ago, whether I could see myself being and living in London, I would have said, "no way!" But now I am here, and I feel like I have found my second home, a place that I enjoy and can feel comfortable and secure in. It's a great a feeling and am glad to have had this trip back to Italy to be able to experience it......Anyway enough of the sentimental babble, I hope that all of you had a wonderful holiday season and are getting ready for a great New Year's celebration. 2012 is going to be a great one!!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Happy Holidays!

2011-12-21T07:52:00.000Z

Dear All,

As we wind down another year, I just want to thank all of you that have been loyal readers, commentators and advocates of the blog and my aspirations. Without all of you, it would be hard to continue writing.

Alas, I am finally off to have some much needed 'away' time in the beautiful country of Italy. And while I can't wait to go stuff myself with pasta and wine, I regretfully admit that I will out of touch with the computer world while there, not being accessible to the blog or my email. That being, enjoy these pictures of 3 new models by Riccardo Bestetti, which are simply breathtaking....

I will return on the 27th for more blogging and until then I wish everyone a happy holiday season!

All the best,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Exotics - Your cow leather alternatives

2011-12-19T12:51:00.001Z

Shoes Above: Crocodile by Riccardo Bestetti

Up until I moved to Italy to learn bespoke shoemaking, I never really was a fan of exotics. This was partly due to the fact that in America, certain exotic leathers are made in a way that they are insanely gaudy i.e. blue and green 'pythons', yellow 'gators,' pink stingray etc. And the other reason being that many of them are made, in my opinion, on the ugliest lasts and in terrible styles. So, needless to say, living in the States gave me a very skewed perspective on how I felt about exotic leathers. It wasn't until I went to Stefano Bemer's RTW shop and saw these two crocodile derbies (one pictured below in red) that I began to understand that exotic leather shoes can be made beautifully...

Sea Creatures - Shark, Stingray, Fish etc.

This category is probably (no, definitely) my least favorite of the exotic leather kingdom. With the exception of shark, I really don't care for anything made from a creature that comes from under the water. I see, admire and appreciate beautiful stingray shoes made by Riccardo Bestetti, but I just don't seem to ever really desire them, especially when they have the white bit on them that looks like an eye or something. Fish too, simply awful in my opinion. While it can give a cool-looking effect, it just seems so limiting to me. What if the scales flake off? And you can't shine them, not well at least. But hey, to each his own right?

Shoes Above: Stingray by Riccardo Bestetti
Shoes Below: (L) Sharkskin by Stefano Bemer; (R) Morse Fish skin

Reptiles - Snake, Crocodile, Alligator, Lizard etc.

Another category that I cannot say that I am ecstatic about, but I can say that I do like a nice wholecut made in crocodile or alligator. The key here is about choosing the leather properly, making sure that it's symmetry is as tidy as can be and the the scales are not too differentiating. But this is difficult (and extremely costly) to do. That's the reason why, you see that few people can do it. And they are usually the people whose shoes cost $1000+ just for their calf skin shoes, let alone the price of a crocodile shoe. Snake skin I am just not a fan of period and lizard I can only do in small amounts, like the facing of a shoe or some sort of accent on it. Now just because I know that this might come up, I will preemptively say, without embarrassment, that I have no clue how to tell the difference between crocodile and alligator. I do know that there is (according to experts) a difference between their scales but cannot say with confidence what that difference is. So, if you are one of those experts reading, then please feel free to leave a comment, in order to enlighten us all.

Shoes Above: Crocodile by Stefano Bemer
Shoes Below: (First Row) L - Croc by Dimitri Gomez; R - Snakeskin by Sperry (I believe)
(Second Row) L - Anthony Delos; R - Alligator by Gaziano & Girling
(Thrid Row) Lizard by Carreducker

Others - Carpincho, Pig, Elephant, Russian Reindeer, Mountain Ram, Pony, Ostrich etc.

Now this jumbled category does contain many of the exotic leathers that I find to be much more appealing. That being, it would appear that I tend to appreciate things that seem to have legs, with the exception of pony and ostrich that is done awfully. But the rest of these can produce a shoe that is not only intriguing but very cool too. Funny thing is, since delving myself head first into the shoe industry, I had never seen many of these leathers let alone heard of them being used to make shoes. But after having seen the likes of carpincho and mountain ram, I will definitely be on the hunt to acquire a pair or two in the --most likely distant-- future.

Shoes Above: Carpincho by George Cleverley
Shoes Below: (First Row) L - Elephant by Koronya; R - Pony by Jan Kielman
                      (Second Row) L - Russian Reindeer by George Cleverley; R - Pigskin by Gaziano & Girling
                      (Third Row) Elephant by Stefano Bemer (both)
                      (Fourth Row) L - Ostrich by Barker Black; R - Mountain Ram by George Cleverley