The Shoe Snob

Shoes Of The Week - Bestetti Gray Wholecuts

2012-03-02T17:20:00.000Z

The nice thing about Riccardo Bestetti's shoes is the fact that you can clearly see the defined lines that have been shaped by the lasting of the leather over the last. If not shaped properly during the making process these lines can be blurred into nothing, looking like the last was just some round blob. Granted, most makers have the skill to not let this happen but.....just saying. Now, the wholecut is the absolute hardest shoe to last, because you don't have the give that is created by having multiple pieces of leather stitched together. It being one piece makes it much harder to shape and pull over the last without any air pockets being created, particularly on the outside of the bottom bit of lacing. But looking at these shoes, you see that it was done properly and every line of that last is represented here, from good making. Now aside from being beautifully shaped, I love the idea of a gray wholecut, much better than the black version that is so necessary in today's society. But imagine if we let go of the idea of a black shoe being standard....how nice would it be to have gray be the new black? For me, it would be amazing!

What I Am Wearing

2012-03-01T16:25:00.001Z

I think that it is so funny (and quite intriguing) how our minds evolve and our tastes change. If I was to look at this picture (above) when I was my 16 year old self, I would have never believed that I would be putting on such things, like bright red shirts, fitted trousers and bow ties. Yet, here I am today doing so. And looking back now, at my 16 year old self, even though I was cool and wearing the popular stuff, I think to myself that I looked such a douche! But, I guess, such is life. Gosh, it makes me wonder what the heck will I be wearing 20 years from now? That's what scares me.....loads of cardigans probably. But at least I will still have my favorite pair of bespoke shoes, my trusty 'ol black and red saddles! Anyway, Spring time has arrived here in London and I could not be more excited. Even though I have a bespoke flannel suit in the works that will hopefully be done by mid-March, I can't help but feel excited that the sun is out and that I might not even get a chance to wear it this season.... Nevertheless, I over the moon with joy, as some more of my prototypes are arriving in the mail tomorrow!! I am dying with anticipation....so be on the look out!

Shoes: Bespoke, made be me
Bow Tie: Drakes
Trousers: H&M
Sweater (Jumper): Primark
Shirt: Primark

Today's Favorites - Clae Fall/Winter 2012

2012-02-29T15:13:00.000Z

While sneakers may not appeal to all of you, I do have to pay homage every now and then, to the shoe style that birthed my profound passion for footwear. And what would be better than a sneaker that is taking influence from dress shoe styles, such as the saddle and the wing tip, as these Clae models are? What I love about the shoe industry these days is that everything is being mixed. Sneakers are taking from dress shoes and vice versa. And so when you love dress shoes, but fancy a sneaker for casual wear, it's nice when you are able to find the blending between the two that presents itself in a smart sneaker. And that's what we have here. But even more so, they used a fabric to make the shoe even more playful. It's all of my favorite things literally balled up into one shoe, except that its a sneaker instead of a dress shoe. Imagine if it was a dress shoe, how crazy would that be? This is why I still love looking at sneakers. I don't wear them as often, but I do take inspiration from them, as I will from these models here.....

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

The Only Dress Shoe Ever Really Needed - The Black Wholecut

2012-02-28T12:16:00.000Z

Gaziano & Girling Deco Range: Cooper

This title might sound like shoe lover blasphemy, and believe me I can't say that I would ever think of just having one, but.....if life presented itself with this situation, it's best to be equipped with what is going to get you through it all. What made me think of this was a discussion that was occurring on Style Forum (a while back) in regards to one's absolute shoe essentials. One gentleman stated that instead of having multiple essentials, he would have preferred to have just one shoe that could get him through each and every situation. Now, he did not mention the black wholecut, and this is where him and I will differ but I got to thinking about people out there who may only be able to afford getting just one or simply can't justify having multiple options. That being, thinking about society, 'the rules' and 'norms', and all of the different possible outfits one would need in life, I decided to create my own little idea of what would be the best option out there for all around purposes. And because I once learned in philosophy class at Uni that every statement needs to be argued against and then re-argued for, I will list my don'ts and do's below.

Berluti

What Not To Wear Black Wholecuts With

In all of the shoe-dom, there is not one shoe style that goes with everything, not even the versatile brown full brogue (can't pair it with black!). And while you might think that a black shoe can go with most things...let me tell you that the wholecut is just not any 'ol black shoe. It's in another category due to it's cleanliness look from being virtually stitch free. That being, there are some types of trousers that just won't measure up to the aesthetic of the black wholecut. For example, jeans being one of them. While I am a total jean guy and do like to wear my leather soled shoes with jeans, I don't think that I would ever pair a black wholecut with them. It's just too contrasting: a mega-dress shoe with real casual trousers (jeans). It just doesn't work. Same thing with khakis, they are simply too casual for the likes of the black wholecut. It would not look right, as neither would anything green or brown. Now you might feel that there are many things limiting here....but in reality, how often do you wear green or brown trousers? Khakis and jeans are much more common, but are also much more casual and hence the title being about a dress shoe, I feel that this is not so bad!

Koji Suzuki

What To Wear Black Wholecuts With

Now this list is going to be much more extensive, not so much in option of clothing, but in colors that the average person uses. Think about what we wear most: grays and blues (mostly navy), particularly in our suiting. While I used to not be an advocate of pairing navy with black, the more I find myself here in England, the more I find it acceptable. While it still would not ever be my preferred pairing, it does look good when needing to be elegantly conservative. That being, you satisfy most of your professional wardrobe, not to mention anything that is formal. In reality, you don't need a patent shoe, but just need to put a real nice shine on a black wholecut and instead of being like everyone else at the black tie event, you will be the one with a brilliant shine and a much more elegant shoe (in my opinion). As for other occasions, what do you wear when going to an interview? What do you wear when going to a nice dinner? You wear black shoes. And the wholecut, being the most elegant of all, will neither look too formal nor too shabby. It will be the safe choice. Obviously, these are not end-all-be-all rules, but when talking about the one shoe that will safely get you by in every occasion, you can't go wrong with the black dress shoe, and even more so, than the minimalistic wholecut. So, if you are a young chap looking for your first dress shoe, look no further than a lovely black wholecut!

Gaziano & Girling bespoke model

Random Beauties

2012-02-27T16:03:00.000Z

Gaziano & Girling courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Louis Vutton

Salvatore Ferragamo

Pierre Corthay courtesy of Pierre Corthay Blog

Dear Readers,

I know that normally I write a long post for Monday, but today I am super busy, absolutely knackered, and frankly just can't be asked. That being, I will keep the long post for tomorrow and thought that instead of writing a bunch today, would just leave you all with a bit shoe porn to feast your eyes upon. I hope that everyone had a great weekend and I will be back tomorrow for some more witty remarks, useless knowledge and outlandish opinions!

Until then....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Blue Two Tone Brogues by Alfred Sargent

2012-02-24T15:17:00.001Z

These monks, to me, are the epitome of cool. It is the type of shoe that I would love to wear day in and day out. Partially because I am such a sucker for blue but also because it represents the idea of being fun and a bit outrageous with your shoe choices. Yes, I will say that if you are a businessman, it's not the most practical choice, but then again, neither is buying and owning a Ferrari in a cramped city like Florence, Italy. But if you had the money and wanted the car, that practicality is not going to stop you, is it? No! That being, shoes like this appeal to me in the utmost way, as they define my ideal of a dream shoe. A shoe that I can wear with not a care in the world, as I would not need to look any which way for any person. Just basically being able to dress how I like. While I can do that anyway, there still are times where I have to be a bit on the conservative side.....unfortunately.

Nevertheless, I wholeheartedly applaud Alfred Sargent for not only making this, but also releasing it. I also applaud online shoe store, A Fine Pair of Shoes, for buying it to then sell to customers. Much bravery (of which I truly admire) went into the thought of this shoe, from conception to wholesale purchase and for me, it makes me smile as it represents progression in the shoe industry!

What I Am Wearing - Suede Loafers & Blazer

2012-02-23T08:34:00.000Z

This outfit here is one of my more classic looks, as in I believe that this is something that many others have done before: brown suede loafers, khaki looking trousers, blue blazer & gold/yellow tie. And even though I usually try not to be too classic, I must say that I quite like this look. For me it gives the notion of one who likes to be smart looking but not stuffy. This look is insanely common in Italy, although they seem to be a bit more bold in their trouser colors, commonly using white, red or purple (maybe that was just Florence, as those three colors represent the football team...) and more often than not, just leaving the tie at home. But you see it less often here in London, mainly due to the 'rules of attire,' which states that a gentleman must dress in black shoes/dark suits Monday through Thursday and only break out the more "casual" pieces from Friday onwards. As I don't follow these rules by any means, I must not be a true gentleman....not yet at least....

Shoes: Ferragamo (Tremezza line AKA Goodyear welted)
Jacket: Vintage
Trousers: Levi's
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Robert Talbott 'Best of Class'

Today's Favorites - Don Ville Belgian Loafers

2012-02-22T16:33:00.000Z

I have always been very intrigued by the Belgian loafer, yet have never really come across them in real life, only in pictures. And while that relationship remains the same, I have found a few that I absolutely love and will most likely look to commission in the near future when I can accumulate some disposable income. These models presented are by American bespoke/MTO shoemaker, Don Ville. While I really really like the one below with orange piping, I have to admit that it was the Prince of Wales fabric one that truly grabbed my attention and made me want to get a pair. As most of you know, my obsession with using suit fabrics on shoes, has yet to diminish and I think that this smart/casual loafer is the perfect option to accommodate such material. While both of these models are spoken for (and thus not readily available to the public), I do believe that anyone can commission what he/she pleases (immediately in the leather option) so long as it is available, but must supply his/her own fabric should they choose to go that route.... Enjoy!

Maftei Interview/Post by Claymoor

2012-02-20T16:20:00.001Z

Dear Readers,

I have had the pleasure of being allowed to use a very very interesting post/interview conducted by the author of Romanian blog, Claymoor, in regards to Maftei shoes (and left almost in his own word). While this is only a bit of the entire original post, which is far larger, it provides some very nice insight into who Maftei is, the shoes that his company makes and a bit of history in regards to their craftsmanship and culture. If you wish to see more pictures, please visit the original post. (All pictures belong to Claymoor blog, as well as commentary. This is just relayed through me, to you. Enjoy!)

Original Post: http://claymoor.blogspot.com/2012/01/in-vizita-la-maftei.html

As well as allow me to use this, the author of the Claymoor blog also did a nice interview on me, of which he asks me questions that have never been asked before and may provide you some more insight into who I am and more of my background and how I came to be. Just thought you might be interested in this....

The Shoe Snob Interview: http://claymoor.blogspot.com/2012/02/interviu-cu-justin-fitzpatrick-shoesnob.html

Alexandru Maftei

Maftei Post/Interview by Mircea Cioponea:

Alexandru Maftei, one of the best Viennese shoemakers, was until recently almost unknown in Romania. Maftei is the creator of a great product: men's bespoke shoes. What Maftei makes, you can only call it art. This art is not yet appreciated at its value in Romania but ultimately no one is prophet in his country. I can only hope that in the near future, Maftei’s shoes will come as a natural choice for bespoke shoes lovers.

The Maftei Store is located in Louis Pasteur Street 38 in Cotroceni, an old and chic neighborhood of Bucharest. I passed by his window shop many times and I was always drawn to the window to look at the shoes. What can I say? I love shoes and his one were exquisite.

Recently, in a cold winter evening, I made an appointment. When I finally entered I had the impression I entered the gentlemen’s saloon worthy of famous Beau Brummel, breathing elegance and style. Places like this once so common in the Small Paris (Bucharest Belle Epoque nickname) are now very few left.
In the Maftei shop I met Mr. Radu Morariu the nephew of Alexandru Maftei and firm representative in Romania.

Romania now is an interesting country in the changing process. After a very bleak period of communist time stains of color and fashion tend to appear but they are not always in style, sometimes just jazz ups. The Romanian men for some time lost their model in style. The Maftei shop is a good way to start on your travel for becoming a well dressed gentlemen. Maftei is a landmark.

A tale of two cities

Maftei Viennese brand has deep Romanian roots. The story began in Piatra Neamt, Romania when Alexandru Maftei started up at just 14 years old as an apprentice in a shoemaker's shop. His special talent was quickly noticed by the old masters but Romania was a communist country where the possibilities were severely restricted. He had a strong desire to evolve and he was dreaming about escaping to West, especially to Vienna. Vienna was the cradle of the legendary shoe manufactures: Rudolf Scheer & Shona
He succeeded to escape from Romania in 1988, but on his way to Vienna he was "hosted" in Hungary, in a camp for immigrants.

Arriving to Vienna through his labors in different low jobs he never let go of his dream of becoming a shoemaker. One evening on the way home, Alexandru Maftei passed by Scheer Shop and he looked in the window where amazing shoes were exposed. Alexandru stopped and contemplated the shoes and the magnificent window. That was his moment of fortune because Scheer himself walked out of the shop in that exact moment.

Scheer noticed the foreigner who was contemplating the windows and started a conversation that drifted to shoe manufacturing. When Scheer found out about Maftei passion he proposed him a trial week in his workshop.

That week was followed by many others. Maftei found his place among Scheer’s artisans team. Once admitted to the team Maftei was born for a second time. He worked for Scheer for a time refining his work methods and gaining experience working with a number of renowned craftsmen. Their histories knitted together nowadays his brother, Ionica currently is artisan of the famous Viennese company.

1996. The birth of Maftei

After the Scheer period, proven an entrepreneurial spirit, Alexandru open his own shop ” Maftei” in 1996, in Vienna, Kunhplatz 6.

Currently he creates unique shoes for celebrities from around the world and he had become the supplier of some of the most demanding clients both in Europe United States and Russia. Not many people know that at various Congresses and Summits world leaders are wearing Maftei creations, as Radu Morariu (Alexandru Maftei nephew’s) says.

In Romania many people buy labels and not the product, and the interest in mens shoes is quite small, not because there is no potential but there is yet no developed culture of exceptional crafted products . "However lately things changed for the better, Romanian men became more aware that the products sold at MAFTEI are customized products with a very high degree of manufacturing and the rigors are maximum. Also I noticed with joy that more and more customers are coming back pleased. They also have an improvement in taste and choosing. They are becoming more refined in choosing the model that fits them. It is very important not to pick a model that you like, but one that fits your stature and constitution, and that fits your health too. Furthermore I can see a growing interest in the way the shoes were made in craft technique like soleing "says dl.Morariu. When you are beginning to be interested in this kind of details that means you are a ‘connoisseur’that is aware on what he spends his money. Before, the customers were interested in the price. The quality was second and essential details such as skin or how the shoe was built were not of interest.

Maftei bespoke shoes. The process and the final product.

At Maftei all models are bespoke.

First visit is for measuring so if you want to make yourself a shoe on your first visit Mr Radu Morariu is going to take your exact measures. A 3D model of the foot – last, will be created. (Maftei has a special room for last like the legendary last- room of John Lobb). By the time the shoe will reach the destination-your foot you will, if necessary, visit the shop more than once for intermediate trying on. These visits are necessary, and Radu Morariu wants to be sure that the initial “trial” shoe follows your anatomic line and the your comfort is perfect. Throughout the journey from idea to shoe (from concept to model), the customer will keep in touch with Radu Morariu so there will be no misunderstanding.

.
Some technical details of Maftei shoes:

A big difference between Maftei and other well know craftsmen is that Maftei is not attributed to only one style/model. “We can customize the model, we can create different models of German, Budapest, English inspiration, classical models, Italian or northern models, working with all kinds of leather from calf to cordovan, reptile or shark leather“ says Mr Morariu.

Another advantage is the price: 700 Euros for wooden nails (pegged shoes) plus 100 Euros for the last. Price is valid for calf leather models. For models with exotic skin price increases, but it does not exceed 3,000 euros for alligator.

For models with hand-sewn soles price is about 900 Euros (calf skin) but it is about half that of the main competitors of equal quality . At this price the customer can choose any model he wants and any type of customization, says Radu Morariu. Another plus is the speed. Maftei manufactured shoes can be in your foot in a very short period of time. ”We made our first bespoke shoes for Bucharest, (for a famous lawyer and politician) in 3 weeks which is a very short time in terms of manufacturing speed " recalls Radu Morariu.

The leather used in Maftei shoes is mainly from France and Italy and is vegetable tanned. “We chose France because it has an old and still respected tradition in vegetable tanneries”. The customer can pick from snake, ostrich, elephant, big cats, seal, shark, crocodile, alligator skin or any other skin that he pleases as long as the skin is legally obtain. The genuine shell cordovan is provided by the well-known Horween, in Chicago, USA.

"To produce a piece of leather used for making bespoke shoes, our leather suppliers are using only 5% of the hide. For the final product warranty is 10 years since purchase, not including consumable items: sole (of foot) and heel. Maftei also offers a repair service which begins with the sole repair, replacement of leather frame, layer of cork, sole, and revitalizing the skin. This shoe Maftei ensure a lifetime of over 20 years” says Mr Morariu.

An important aspect is the collaboration with John Lobb on the soleing part.
"With respect I can say that Maftei is among the best in the world in terms of soleing. Due to the collaboration with John Lobb, we managed to reach a far better understanding of the last technique”. ”We are very proud of our collaboration with John Lobb” says Mr Morariu

I ended the conversation with Radu Morariu after almost 3 hours in which he showed me different samples of leather, of shoes (some fantastic shoes I can say) and some special techniques. "Even if a man visits the shop out of curiosity, if you manage to make him understand what a bespoke shoe is, how much work and dedication is put into every stitch, you have won yourself a regard as a craftsman. And if the visitor will become a permanent customer, satisfaction is even greater” (…) This was an interesting view about Romanians and the possibility of being successful in producing luxury products.” However I can say that in Romania there are very skilled craftsmen, and generally very talented people. But what we lack is organization and discipline. My uncle is especially proud in life of two things: he managed to carry on the rigors of craft learned from Scheer and developed “Maftei” brand and he also managed to build in Piatra Neamt Romania, the city where he first sewed a shoe, an excellent manufacturing place that can compete with any top shoemaker shop in the world. By his hard work he won a reputation" says in closing, Radu Morariu.

Shoes Of The Week - Dimitri Bottier Seamless Whole Cut

2012-02-17T12:24:00.001Z

It's amazing that the hardest shoe to make, is the shoe that has the least amount of detail to it. And while I can't really back that statement up with in-depth description of how it is done (since I am not entirely sure), I can say that the seamless wholecut is something that few people can create. This model here, by legendary bespoke maker Dimitri Gomez, is a perfect example of just how beautiful this design can be. To me, the wholecut (and especially seamless version) tells you a lot about the shoemaker. The reason being, is that when you take away all of the fluff (e.g. stitching, brogueing, detailing), all that you are left with is the shape of the last and how the leather sits on that shape. That little thing, will tell you just how well the pattern/last maker understands shape and proportion. A last can be designed a trillion ways, but only a few of them will make you say, "WOW!" And there is no better shoe than the seamless wholecut to make you see that. Needless to say, this model shown is simply flawless and I can tell you, while I have a nice burgundy wholecut already, I will commission one of these sometime in the future!!

Today's Favorites - Sebago's The Patriot

2012-02-15T15:42:00.001Z

After having some pretty cold weather these last few weeks in London, the sun (and warmth) finally came out today, which almost gave the feeling of a Spring arrival. Now, I must say that I have a real love/hate relationship with our world's seasons. I love the heat and hate the cold, but hate the clothing for the Spring/Summer and love the clothing for Autumn/Winter. Sounds weird doesn't it? But about one of the only things that I really really like for the Spring/Summer 2012 season is the return of the boat shoe. I always look forward to seeing what the boat shoe companies are going to come up with every year in hopes to find something that I really like. This year's upcoming big one is called The Patriot by Sebago, of which any proud British gentleman (and possibly lady) will be able to adorn his country's flag on the sole of his shoe. I can't say that I am particularly a big fan of wearing flags on my clothes, but nevertheless, I quite enjoy the rest of this shoe, from the clear sole to the bold lining colors, and just the colors in general. It's quite amazing to see how much of an impact Sebago has been making these last couple of years, first in the States, and now here in England. I can only be excited about their future collaborations and concoctions! For those that share my passion for a nice boat shoe and fancy this one, it will be available from mid-May, and will be exclusive at John Lewis.

Shoe Cobblers

2012-02-13T15:57:00.000Z

Let me first off start by saying one thing: a cobbler is not a shoemaker. This is one thing that bothers me and has just seem to have stuck in people's heads since the dawn of time. I do believe that cobblers, at one point in time, did double as shoemakers and shoe menders, but in this day and age, they are simply people who fix other people's shoes. Now, don't get me wrong, cobblers can also be artisans, as shoe mending is quite different and can be quite difficult with respects to shoe making, but nevertheless, they are different. I state this because I feel that many people still believe that they are the same thing, or that they simply just don't know that a bespoke shoemaker is by no means a cobbler. It's like calling a pattern cutter (of suits) a tailor and asking him to hem your trousers. If you do this, you would be insulting that individual to the fullest, as their years of extensive training will seem like nothing. Same thing for a bespoke shoemaker. That being, let me get on with the rest of the post.

Proper high-quality toe piece, the kind that they showed me, telling me that it was what they used

The reason that I am writing this, is because I had a less than satisfactory experience with a 'cobbler' here in London. I can't really say that they did a bad job, but I do have to say that the service was quite disappointing to say the least. I had realized that I had quickly worn down my toe area and that if I wore my shoes any more I would grind it down to the welt. That being, I was in desperate need of some toe taps (blakeys). I thought that while I was at it, I would also ask them to replace the top piece of my heels as well. Now having done a bit of repairs while learning how to make shoes, I can do both of these things, but in reality can't really be asked to do so, as time is tight, space is limited (to make a mess) and the materials are sometimes hard to source, at least in small quantities. Therefore, I decided to go to a place that I had never tried (of which I won't name) yet of which I had seen some of their work done on a customers' shoes and knew that they could do a proper blakey. Now, a proper blakey (as pictured above), is one that you have to slice a bit of the sole down in order to screw it on and then make flush with the rest of the sole. This is not to be confused with those rubbish blakelys that most cobblers here in England use in which they just nail on some piece of crap metal that falls off within a matter of single-digit wears.

Extremely crooked, definitely not perpendicular to the center line of the shoe

Now, I had used a few cobblers before, here in England. One was in Brighton and the other was in the West End. The West Enders are pretty good, but will blurt out a price based on how I am dressing that day....nothing that seems to ever be fixed, which is a bit off-putting. While once replacing the top piece of my heels on one of my bespoke pairs, I had sent the shoes to a cobbler and when all done I had noticed that they had put on this "polish" that they use to finish off the shoes with those fast spinning brush wheels. This crap smelled like gasoline mixed with motor oil and was so horrible that it set into my leather immediately. Needless to say, as they were my black/red bespoke saddle shoes (my absolute favorites), I was furious. I immediately went back to work and stripped them down with alcohol in order to get that stuff off of my leather, before it ate it all away like termites on wood. So, having been scarred from this experience, I kindly asked the cobblers that I was now going to, to please not use any sort of varnish to finish my shoes and if necessary to replace the heel and leave the shoes as I would re-dye them myself. They assured me that they don't use any chemical type stuff, so I trusted them. What a mistake that was....

Having to shave down each one myself so that they did not scratch my floors

Needless to say, when I received the shoes back (from a delivery to my work as they were not done when I went in to get them, nor had even started), I immediately saw that they had used the very stuff that I had asked them not to, and it was already leaving salt-like stains on my leather. Because it was dire, I did not take a picture to show all of you, but quickly rubbed it all off before it began to ruin my leather. I also noticed that they did not use the same quality blakey that they had previously showed me in the shop, instead using a much cheaper and, in my opinion, more fragile looking one. And on top of that, they were incredibly crooked and were not flush with the sole, meaning that I was going to have to sand them down with a filer. As you can imagine, I was quite disappointed and feel that I am not the only one who has used London cobblers and has felt the same. Time after time again, I see customers who have taken their shoes in for a re-sole and the job that has been done was appalling, so bad that the cobblers did not even bother to take out the old thread but just stitched right over it, creating a disgusting mess on the welt line. It makes me truly curious as to how London (England) is so famous for its shoemakers, but how awful many of their cobblers are. Truly astonishing..... Now, that being, I do get asked by many people to recommend a good cobbler here in London, but I really cannot do so with any confidence. Therefore I need your help. If you are a reader from London and know of a really good cobbler, please do share it in the comments section as I am sure that we would all appreciate it!

At least they did a decent job on the heel pieces

Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent

2012-02-10T17:23:00.000Z

Picture Courtesy of Style Sage

I once did a post talking about how I felt that the brown full-brogue was the most versatile shoe there is and even though this shoe above, by Alfred Sargent, is not considered a "full-brogue," it really makes me feel that my statement was bang-on, as I feel that I could wear this shoe with just about everything! Not only is everything that has to do with the design, like pattern, last shape and contrasted sole, but the color of the upper is absolutely exquisite. Out of the trillion shades of brown that there is, I really think that this is the best one that I have yet to see. It has a perfect blend between a mid-brown and a chocolate, being a bit dark but not so much so that it could be mistaken for black.....Gosh, it's so hard being a shoe freak, especially one that is starting his own range, as it makes me feel that I will have to stick to wearing only my shoes, but that idea alone goes very much against the grain of my soul, as I will continue to yearn for other models.....ah what dilemmas! That being, as you may have gathered from it all, this shoe is lovely and is precisely the shoe that every man needs to complete his wardrobe: a dark brown brogue of sorts....

I hope that everyone has a wonderful weekend. Until Monday....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Rider Boot Co.

2012-02-09T16:52:00.001Z

As you can imagine, I have a collection of images that must range in the thousands and because of that, it can become quite difficult remembering what I have and what I want to put up. I am constantly just browsing the net, saving dozens of pictures at a time, of all of the beautiful and unique shoes that I come across. Because of that, and having so darn many, I have to literally just peruse around my folders looking for inspiration for each post. But the nice thing about it is that it's almost like finding little treasures that you forgot about, like a $20 in your trouser pocket! So when I came to these mid-height jodhpur boots by Rider Boot Co., I was quite excited, as I find their design to be truly lovely. To me, the best jodhpur boots leave the face of the boot clean looking, not having the strap coming around it, as these don't. That way, you get the lovely and undisturbed profile of a blank canvas from toe to top of boot. I think that the other detail that really attracted me to these was the fact that the strap has a lovely curve at the bottom of it, instead of just being straight and boring. It flows with the ambiance that the stitching, around the rest of the boot, creates. Nothing has a sharp angle, it's all fluid. That, to me, is lovely. It's all in the detail....as always!

Today's Favorites - Edward Green Oundle

2012-02-08T16:43:00.001Z

Have you ever wondered why the majority of cordovan leather comes in a burgundy color when in fact, it can be made in any color, such as this brown pair of Edward Green Oundles? Well, as I don't know why, I cannot comment further on the matter, but if you happen to, please feel free to leave a comment. Nevertheless, I find myself always being attracted to shoes that come in cordovan leather that is in a different-than-normal color, such as the green pair that Stefano Bemer made or this pair here. And even though I have never really been a fan of the idea of wearing a pair of shoes whose upper leather is as stiff as its sole leather, I have always been so curious about them and having one, maybe just for show...However, I think that I would probably commission one in a blue color of sorts, maybe one shady lighter than navy, as I think that the natural shimmer that cordovan creates, would be lovely in blue. But back to the subject, this pair here is exquisite, not just because it's one of the most handsome monk straps ever made, but because that brown shade of cordovan looks fantastic!

Pictures Courtesy of Leather Soul

What I Am Wearing - Black & Blue

2012-02-07T15:08:00.001Z

I used to be the black & blue hater #1, and even to this day, I would prefer to never pair them together. But as I get older, the climate changes, my culture becomes something else (in my ever-moving journey), I really just can't be asked to rebel any further. Most of the time, I put them together due to the fear of ruining any of my nice non-black colored shoes, like my red's or suedes or whatever goes best with navy trousers. But the more and more that I spend in Europe, where I find myself outside 1000 more than I ever used to be (as cars don't make sense in city center here and thus commuting by foot takes over), the more and more that I find myself pairing these two colors and the more and more I find myself warming to the idea of black & blue. Strange how life is always playing tricks on you, how you hate something one day and then love it the next and vice-versa. It makes us all a bunch of hypocrites....or maybe just me. And even while I feel that it does create a classier look, I do believe that I will always prefer brown paired with navy, as something that just flows better.

Shoes: Allen Edmonds
Sweater (Jumper): Some brand from Naples, Italy
Shirt - Primark
Tie - Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers - H&M

A Shoes Longevity

2012-02-06T17:27:00.000Z

Bontoni shoes, Picture Courtesy of Style Buff

Throughout my time in the shoe industry, I have always been plagued by the most subjective question in the world: "How long will these shoes last?" In all honesty, I really hate that question and to be quite blunt, I feel that the people who ask it are truly lacking in common sense. How am I supposed to know how long your shoes are going to last? How is anyone supposed to know? There are 5 trillion factors that will be taken into account when trying to even give a rough estimate. For example, where you live, what the weather is like where you live, how often you wear your shoes, do you use shoe trees, do you rotate your shoes etc. etc. I could go on and on and on with a million and one questions that I could ask to even begin to give a rougher-than-sandpaper estimate to how long your shoes will last. But even if I do my absolute best to tell you that they will last at least one year, you could wear them in the rain the next day, soak the sole leather, not use shoe trees to absorb the water and step on something sharp that then creates a tear in your sole and thus having you needing to replace it.... They could be John Lobb shoes, and you will wonder why your £1000 ($1600) shoes did not last long. But it was not their fault, it was yours!

Now, what brings this on (even though I should have written about it a long time ago) was the fact that a reader emailed me asking a justified question about shoes that we both own and his concern for their longevity and it made me want to provide knowledge to the masses about the truth to your shoes estimated life span. I feel that many people are misinformed to what buying an expensive shoe means. In no way is this in response to my reader (as his question was very valid and justifiable), but a chance to hopefully give people a better idea of what it means to own good shoes, care for them and the assurance of them lasting the amount of time that you would like them to.

Too much beer, not enough conditioner

The Shoes Upper

The shoes upper is by far the most important part of the shoe. Once this is gone, the shoe is no longer salvageable. Think of the leather on the upper as your own skin, only that it is no longer alive and does not have a body to take care of it naturally. You, the owner, replace that ever-working body, and are thus responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of the skin. Now there are many ways to do this. Naturally, you will want to think of the things that your leather does not like, for example water, wine, beer (especially -- I know!!) or any liquid for that matter, dirt, food etc. You need to make sure that you can hopefully limit the amount of times that your upper leather has to make an encounter with these things, because the less able you are to do that, the less likely that your upper leather will last long. Now obviously you go through life and do many things and it makes no sense to tip toe around on your nice shoes hoping to never ruin them, but there are precautions that you can take, such as checking the weather and having galoshes to be prepared, not wearing them to the pub when you know that you are going to get drunk or always using the sidewalk (pavement) instead of walking on grass or dirt etc. These are all common sense type things that I believe many people forget to think about but then are so mystified when they ruin their shoes quickly.

Now outside of being observant to your surroundings, there are several things that you need to maintain your leather. Those things are: a good leather conditioner (like the one that I sell), some good wax polish, a nice and soft horse hair brush, shoetrees, dust bags, some nylon (women's tights) and ideally the box that the shoes came in. With the proper use of these things (and taking into account the paragraph above), the life of your shoes could increase ten fold. The most important things, in my opinion, out of that entire list, would be the conditioner and the shoetrees. Both of them act as deterrents to things that destroy your leather e.g. liquid of any kind (even sweat) and drying out your leather. So, if you can't have them all, at least have these two.

The Sole of the Shoe

The sole of your shoe is also very important as it meets face to face with the concrete for each and every step that you take. But remember, the sole is made out of leather, not rock and due to that, it is by no means indestructible!!! But that does not mean that it should crap-out any time soon after purchase either. But like I said, this will always vary depending on how you are with your shoes. Let's take me for example. I am a very hard walker. Even though I have around 100 shoes (40 dress), the heel and toe (especially) regions of the sole get worn down very very fast. This is why I, more often than not, need to put on toe taps (blakies) as a way to ensure that I do not need to replace the sole, when it still has tons of life left. I know this about myself and therefore know that I need to do something to prevent a premature replacement of materials. And it does not matter what shoe it is, I will wear those toes down like no tomorrow. It could be G&G shoes, a bespoke one or even some cheapo and that leather won't stand a chance, no matter how high quality it is. It's an annoying problem no doubt, but it won't change. So that being, you need to figure out more about the way that you walk and how hard you are on your shoes, to ensure that you will properly maintain their life span.

Open Channel

Closed Channel

Another thing is that fancy decoration will usually bring on easy ruin. For example, there are two ways that you can have your goodyear welted shoes appearing on the sole: with the stitch showing or not. These are referred as open and closed channel stitching. To get a better idea see the pictures. Now, there is plus and minus for both. But for the sake of time, let's just look at the closed channel stitching. Now this is where you don't see the stitching on the bottom of the sole. It leaves a very clean look and is more often than not shown on higher-end shoes. So, the positive is that it looks good, but the negative is that it creates a weak spot on the outer edges of the soles' leather. Why you ask? Well, when creating a closed channel stitch, you have to cut (very finely - see picture below) into the side of the sole to open it up and create the channel. The piece of the leather that you will open up with be around 1-2mm thick (quite fine). Once you stitch the sole to the welt, you will then close the channel by gluing it back onto the sole. That being, your stitching (on the sole) is literally only being protected by a 1-2mm piece of leather that is glued on (by no means permanent, especially when water is involved!). If you get caught on a wet day, you will most likely over soak this area and if left too long in this weak state, it will be very easy to rip it apart, either fraying the edges or worse, begin to show the stitching.

So just remember, even if you buy only shoes that cost loads of money, that does not mean that they are going to last you forever if you don't treat them right. Shoes are not rocks, they are not invincible and they do break down. Granted, an expensive shoe should always last longer than a cheap shoe, but if you are one of those people that believe that just because it is expensive that it should last forever, then you will always be sadly mistaken. Even diamonds can be destroyed!

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Larguer

2012-02-04T12:42:00.001Z

What an absolutely beautiful color!! The complexity of it amazes me, with how many different shades of blue (my favorite color) there is. From navy, to teal, to sea blue etc. it's a array of blues that leaves one of the most amazing colors (if not the best) that I have seen on a pair of shoes. I just might have to commission one of these and unfortunately steal the idea of whomever is the owner. Don't worry, I would do a different model, as not to be an exact copy-cat! Septieme Largeur continues to impress me, particularly with how easy they make having a shoe company is, from their classic (yet unique) styles to their amazing patinas, to the lovely last shapes and finally, the wonderful prices. It's no wonder they are getting big, very quickly! My hat is tipped to the gentleman that issued this shoe, as no doubt, when walking down the street heads will turn and impressions will be left! If only more men had to courage to do this (wear bold colored shoes), as I know that they would like to!

J. FitzPatrick Shoe Line Progression

2012-02-02T17:07:00.000Z

Getting a company up and running may be just one of the most difficult things in the world, particularly when there are products involved that have to be produced by someone else. Naturally, being naive, you may somewhat underestimate the amount of time that it takes to actually even begin (as I have) which will then set you up for a crash course in zen-like patience, as you twiddle your thumbs each day waiting for that email/call telling you that your products are done. This is what I am going through now; counting the days, the minutes, the seconds until I have my finalized prototypes in my hands, which will then allow me to go sell them to the world, and even better yet, see them on other people's feet. It's amazing to even think about the possibility of that coming to fruition. But until this point, I am here, trying to sort the things out that I am working on, e.g. The Shoe Snob website (not blog) where I will then sell all of my accessories off of as well as offer shoe-related services. Planning, planning, planning and then executing is what my days consist of... So when I do see a shoe here or there, you can imagine how excited I become, as that feeling of progression takes over and fills me with joy!

(Colors most accurate from these two photos below)

As you can see, there are two new shoes here, both of which are in my size for trial wearing. Just in case some of you may be wondering what that means, it is intended so that I can test my shoes to make sure that the last and patterns are right, the width is good and everything functions like a proper shoe. For these trial pairs, I chose color options that might not be put into production, but gives me a good idea of how they would look. The cap-toe model in suede is the same pattern as the tan cap-toe (pictured way below) that I first released pictures of. The other shoe is an example of the 3rd last that I will be using, a more pointed one originating from the shape of my bespoke models (although not as pointy). Looking at it you will also see my very own medallion that I will be using for my first collection. However, it's still a bit rough around the edges and needs some minute detailing in order for it to be finalized (such as making sure that holes are not missing, as one is!).

While I still can't put a date on when my shoes will be ready for sale, I can at least hope to say that my prototypes will be ready for action by no later than April. But after they are ready, then begins the tough stuff, like working out all of the financial details and the tedious things such as boxes and what will come with each pair of shoes purchased. It's all a very long process, one that sometimes leaves me drained and feeling that it will never end and I will be forever "trying" to start my shoe line. While I know that this is not actually the case, as I am so close to my end goal, the anticipation of it all, from years of envisioning, makes each day get harder and harder. But what makes it easier is the people like you (the readers), who give me that imaginary pat on the back, supporting me the entire way. Thank you for the support and I hope that you enjoy the process and my new test shoes.

(The other prototypes, just to have them all on one page)

Today's Favorites - Vass V Caps

2012-02-01T15:15:00.000Z

When it comes to shortwings (wing-caps that don't extend to the mid section of the shoe), there is a very fine line between well-done and ugly. These shoes right here, by Mr. Laszlo Vass, happen to be on the pleasant side of that scale, but make you think about how you feel about them (at least they did for me). At first I thought that they were a shortwing (from a quick glance at the picture) but the more that I studied them and their interesting angles and curves on the various 'upper' pieces, I started to realize (after actually reading about them) that they are not shortwings at all. They are simply a cap toe with a pointed middle section, or what they call a V cap. I think that simple fact of uncertainty that this style creates is part of what makes them appeal to me. It makes you want to give it a double take, wondering what style of shoe it actually is. Bearing that in mind takes me back to the post I wrote about in regards to unique styling, as it would appear that when creating this pattern for the first time, he wanted to create the child that a love affair between a shortwing and a cap toe would make!

Picture Courtesy Of: Zimmerman & Kim

Corthay Visit Part 2: London

2012-01-30T12:35:00.000Z

Back in late July of 2011, I went to Paris for a quick business trip and happened to have enough time to pop into the Corthay shop in hopes to meet the legend himself, Mr. Pierre Corthay. Unfortunately, at the time, he was away and therefore was unable to meet him but did meet his brother, who is also very much involved in the company. While it was still a lovely visit, I knew that there would always be a 'next time' for the opportunity to meet the man himself! That being, on Tuesday of last week, I was scrolling through Facebook or something of that nature (maybe a blog) and happened to notice that Mr. Pierre Corthay was coming to London for a trunk show on the Friday of that week. I knew that this was my chance, not only to meet him but to finally check out their new shop in London that had just opened last December, of which I had been meaning to go in order to give you all some info! Therein lied my opportunity to kill two birds with one stone!

When I arrived there the shop was actually closed (it was about 9:50am). I was a bit worried (as they don't list the opening hours on the website) that maybe they wouldn't open until 11am or somewhere along that time (they are in Knightsbridge after all...). Luckily, I had my smartphone on me and utilized it to find the phone number to the shop. I quickly called and happen to get ahold of the store manager, Francois, who kindly ran upstairs to let me in. He took my to the bottom level of the store, where low-and-behold, was Mr. Pierre Corthay himself! It was a bit surreal finally meeting him and I was taken back a bit by the error in my preconceived notion of how he may have been, in the sense that most (shoe) artists (in my opinion) are a bit reserved (which can be seen as cold) when you first meet them. Yet, Pierre was extremely friendly and nice, and happened to actually know who I was (quite possibly due to my visit to the Paris shop), which was quite a surprise and a comforting feeling all at the same time. We began to chat a bit, mainly about his shoes, my goals in starting my own line and how business has been for him. While the chatting was brief (as time was of the essence, for us both), it was nice to finally be able to meet the man behind some of the most lovely shoes in the world.

After the quick chat with Pierre, a client came to visit him, so I began to talk to Francois and the young patina/shine artist (Thomas) that creates much of the magical coloring that you see on Corthay shoes. They told me that in order to give the coloring that you see on the two crocodile shoes within this post, the patina artist spends a total of 8 hours coloring in each scale one-by-one. Talk about a meticulous job. But in order to create art (as these beauties are), one must do so with precision and patience. That being, you can imagine (especially since the young gentleman was only 23) that I was insanely impressed! But when passion is involved, age no longer becomes an issue, only drive and ambition to be the best that you can.

After the quick chat with the two gentleman, I had to be off in order to not become too late for work. But I have to say that I was duly impressed with the visit and how immensely kind and generous everyone there was. That being, if you are ever in the area I highly recommend a visit, if nothing more than to admire the beautiful shoes and possibly see an artist at work....

miniature model (as long as my hand)

Shoes Of The Week - Alexandre Portejoie

2012-01-27T14:46:00.001Z

As much as you don't see burgundy shoes as often as I would like to, I can tell you that burgundy boots are even far less common, yet to me are ever so more appealing than what you do actually see on the shelves. This model here is by a French shoe designer/maker, named Alexandre Portejoie, who is quite known for his out-of-this-world creations. This boot, while being still a bit on the 'forward' side with its pointy toe and decoration, is one of his tamest creations, believe it or not. And what drives me to it, aside from the lovely color created from the patina, is the big, heavy duty sole that it has been made with. You see, while I don't like bulky shoes (or bulky soles for that matter), I much less like the idea of it being snowy or real rainy out and having to wear some Red Wing boot to save my shoes from being destroyed. That being, a beautiful boot like this with a nice, heavy sole on it (still cut to look dressy) allows one to not only face that awful weather but be able to do so in smart clothing without having to look like a hiker in his rugged boots....

What I Am Wearing

2012-01-26T15:51:00.000Z

This Prince Albert loafer was the very first pair of shoes that I ever made by hand. It was just a rejected upper that was lying around and happened to be somewhat near my size (although I believe that it must have been for a 8-8.5UK). Stefano (Bemer) told me that I could use it to make a pair of shoes, but at the time I did not have a last of my own. I therefore had scoured through his random last models in hope to find something that was near my foot size. And not all of the lasts had sizes written on them, so I pretty much just had to eyeball it. Luckily I found one that actually looked quite good with this upper and happened to fit me in the length, but being just a tad bit wide (as I have a narrow foot). Because of that I break it out every now and then but don't wear it as much as I would like to. However, since having made this, I fell in love with the idea of having a Prince Albert loafer that was a bit more casual (i.e. not for formal wear and having a proper sole), that one could wear with smart trousers and even jeans and be able to show off a little bit of sock. But you really don't see that made anywhere and that's why I decided to introduce one into my collection, probably one of the models that I am most excited about.....

P.S. Don't judge me on the knot of my bow tie, it's so thick that it's hard to make nice....I know that it's sloppy looking!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Trousers: Zara
Sweater (Jumper): Primark
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Socks: Gieves & Hawkes

Cool Shoes, Cool Clothes, Cool Ties....Cool Blog

2012-01-25T13:43:00.000Z

These days, I unfortunately don't have a lot of time to peruse through blogs as much as I would like to, let alone read them, which is a shame really, as I believe that blogs these days are among the leaders in providing useful information, particularly within the men's style industry. But, every now and then (while searching for photos of shoes), I stumble across a diamond in the rough. It's not actually how I found the blog, Monsiuer Bespoke, of which you can credit all of the photos shown in this post, but am glad that I found it nonetheless. While the blog appears to be new (having only one page of 'older posts') and is in Italian, I can assure you that I don't think I have ever seen such an array of amazing outfits and shoes all in one spot. Granted, it would appear the writer is an acquaintance of Mr. Bestetti and therefore favors his footwear at the current moment (hence all of the photos) but also seemed to have the inside scoop on all of the coolest outfits at the most recent Pitti Uomo.

Shoes by: Riccardo Bestetti

Aside from writing a nice blog with cool pictures, Mr. Cerruti (the author) is apparently also the proprietor of bespoke tie firm in Milan, called Passagio Cravatte. Most of you don't know this about me, but apart from shoes, ties are another one of my sicknesses (back up to around 60 now, before I gave away 40 prior to coming to Europe). That being, when I looked at the site and the ties that have been made, I was incredibly impressed! What's cool about the company is that each tie is unique to the individual, where you go to the shop, pick a cloth that you fancy (as well as a bunch of other important things) and then have the tie made to your liking. I can tell you when I make my first bit of real money, I am going to visit this shop and have a heyday! Well, I thought that you all might enjoy something new to look at, something that provides a bit more ideas in the suit department and something can help you learn a little bit of the Italian language!

http://monsieurbespoke.blogspot.com/

http://www.passaggiocravatte.com/

Unique Shoe Designs

2012-01-23T12:29:00.000Z

Shoe Above: J.FitzPatrick

When talking about designing shoes, I commonly hear the expression, "Everything under the sun has been done." And while I generally tend to agree with it (on a grand scale), I still believe that there are little tweaks that can be done to a shoe, here and there, that will minutely (and yet immensely) separate it from all of the rest. For instance, the shoe above which is another one of my prototypes, has a penny strap that extends all the way back to the heel. This was something that I had never seen before, yet had always wondered what it might look like, being that I like to use multiple materials in my shoes. I wanted to be able to mix it up somehow, having the strap be a different material than the rest of the shoe. At first, I wanted to hold this close to my chest, as it was a unique design and did not want anyone ripping me off before I could release my line, but as I have been blabbing for 2 years now about getting this line off of the ground, and doing so has been slower than I had anticipated, I couldn't help but show this to all of you to let you know that things are truly still in the motions.....slowly but surely!

Clearly I am not the only one that has done a unique design. Almost every maker does one in some way or another whether it is with a row of stitching and how it is positioned, the colors and/or materials that they may use, or how one might change the aesthetics of one of the pieces of the pattern (cap/quarter/vamp etc.). You will find it in the subtle details that will define that makers style. Sometimes these things can be hard to spot, sometimes they are quite obvious. Nevertheless, they are always nice for me (so long as it's not overbearingly ostentatious) as it then represents a new way to do a shoe.... I remember back in 2006, the first time that I ever saw a Gaziano & Girling shoe, in Robb Report magazine. I can't say for sure, but I think it was either the Gable or the Regent, and it was the first time that I had ever seen that pointed (^-shaped) toe cap. Back then, I wasn't so knowledgeable about shoes, as it was really the beginning point for me in the fine footwear industry, so you can imagine how blown away I was to see something so unique when all I had previously known was the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, as it was the end-all-be-all shoe in America. And even though I can't pinpoint the exact model that it was, the moment was still so vivid for me, as it represented the day that I truly chose to go after my dreams, telling myself that I wanted to emulate G&G by making good quality shoes that stood out from the rest (in terms of design).

Corthay - Unique stitch design on facing & bottom hole punch

Jan Kielman - Unique stitching leading to back of heel

Imai Hiroki - oxford like slip-on

Marc Guyot - stitching and strap unique

Along with dress boots being something that I predict will be big in the next year or two, I also predict that you will see more and more makers trying their hardest to come out with designs that separate themselves from the rest. Clearly this is obvious, because you could not just come out with a line doing shoes that simply look like everyone else's (and be successful) but more in the way that designers/makers, I feel, will more and more try and give little twists to existing classics. Classics are classics for a reason but that does not mean that they are already perfected....little minute details could make a classic better than it already is...of course, this will always be in the humble opinion of the eye of the beholder. But nevertheless, for me, it is always extremely fascinating to see how a designer interprets a shoe with his unique design. That my friends is (to me) the most interesting thing about the shoe industry....seeing how interpretations differ. Hence the reason why each country has their own individual look when it comes to their shoes!

Saint Crispins - All around design is unique

Saion - design on facing/coloring the sole

J.M. Weston - all around design, many things mixed together

Altan Bottier - Point on tongue of shoe