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		<title>Zucchini blossoms take a stuffing</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/zucchini-blossoms-take-a-stuffing/</link>
		<comments>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/zucchini-blossoms-take-a-stuffing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 01:15:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Produce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stuffed zucchini flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[zucchini]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[zucchini rellenos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3540</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Zucchini blossoms were the jewels of the market last week, fat bouquets of them piled on a farmers table, glowing green, gold and orange in the afternoon light.
We had come to the Watsonville farmers market in search of Mexican produce and found our share of glossy poblano peppers, leafy ezpazote to cook with beans and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3543" title="zuke flowers2" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/zuke-flowers2.jpg" alt="zuke flowers2" /></p>
<p>Zucchini blossoms were the jewels of the market last week, fat bouquets of them piled on a farmers table, glowing green, gold and orange in the afternoon light.</p>
<p>We had come to the Watsonville farmers market in search of Mexican produce and found our share of glossy poblano peppers, leafy ezpazote to cook with beans and crunchy purslane, or verdolaga in Spanish.  But the gorgeous zucchini blossoms, celebrated all over the Mediterranean as well as in Latin America, were irresistible.  They&#8217;re only available in the market for a few weeks every year — about the time everyone has hit their limit of the prolific squash.  We went home with two bunches.</p>
<p>Not until we were driving home did I begin to think about what I would do with my treasures. <span id="more-3540"></span> Zucchini blossom fritatta was a no-brainer.  It&#8217;s easy and a wonderful showcase for the delicate herbal flavor of the tender blossoms.</p>
<p>What I really wanted was stuffed and fried zucchini blossoms.  I don&#8217;t deep  fry, though.  It&#8217;s much too messy, slightly scary,  and really isn&#8217;t good for me anyway.</p>
<p><img class="size-full wp-image-3547 alignright" title="zuke flowers4" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/zuke-flowers4.jpg" alt="zuke flowers4" width="330" height="365" /></p>
<p>What I came up with was zucchini blossoms relleno, baked in a casserole with a simple tomato sauce on the side.  It&#8217;s a takeoff on a dish I used to make out of an old Sunset Mexican cookbook, stuffed with an updated filling I created for chiles relleno.</p>
<p>The combination of fresh corn, onion, diced chile, and salty queso fresco with the blossoms and an eggy batter is unbeatable.  The flavors are fresh and the corn adds nice texture.</p>
<p>True, it&#8217;s not quite as crisp as if the blossoms had been fried but it&#8217;s a lot easier to pull off. And much better for your health.</p>
<p>Stuffing the blossoms is a tad tricky. You need to hold the flowers open with one hand while you spoon the stuffing in with the other and they keep closing up.  After that, though, it&#8217;s smooth sailing.</p>
<p>Line a buttered baking dish with the stuffed blossoms, sprinkle with a bit more cheese, top with a thin egg batter and pop it into the oven.  While it&#8217;s baking, stir together a basic tomato sauce—using canned, chopped tomatoes to cut down on the prep work — and let it simmer.</p>
<p>Pull the casserole out of the oven and you have an ideal dish to celebrate the last days of summer.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3550" title="zuke flowers3" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/zuke-flowers3.jpg" alt="zuke flowers3" /></p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM RELLENOS</strong><br />
<em>Serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a light supper</em></p>
<p>1 small poblano pepper<br />
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use<br />
about 1 cup minced white onion, divided use<br />
3 cloves garlic, minced, divided use<br />
1 medium ear of fresh corn<br />
Salt and pepper to taste<br />
½ cup crumbled queso fresco or mild feta cheese<br />
8 large zucchini blossoms<br />
26-oz box or can of chopped tomatoes<br />
½ teaspoon dried oregano<br />
Butter for greasing casserole<br />
4 eggs<br />
2 tablespoons flour<br />
¼ teaspoon baking powder</p>
<p>Char the pepper over an open flame or under a broiler until the skin is evenly black all over, but be careful not to burn the flesh.  Place the pepper in a sealed paper bag or in a covered bowl for 10-15 minutes to steam while it cools enough to handle.  Meanwhile, cut the corn off the cob with a knife or stripper (I use <a href="http://kuhnrikon.com/products/tools/tools.php3?id=207" target="_blank">this cute one</a> from Kuhn Rikon).  Peel and remove seeds from pepper, then mince.</p>
<p>Warm 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium  heat in a small nonstick skillet.  Add ½ cup of the onion and about a third of the minced garlic and saute gently until onion is soft and translucent.  Add corn kernel and minced pepper and cook a few minute more.  Cover, lower heat, and continue cooking until corn is tender.  You may need to add a couple of tablespoons of water to keep the mixture moist.  Remove lid and take pan off the heat while you rinse and thoroughly dry the blossoms.  When mixture has cooled, stir in about ¾ of the cheese, reserving a couple tablespoons.</p>
<p>Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Carefully stuff each blossom about half full, being careful not to tear the petals, and gently twist tops to close.  Place stuffed blossoms close together in a greased 7-inch by 10-inch or similar size baking dish. Sprinkle with remaining cheese.</p>
<p>In a small bowl, whisk together eggs, flour and baking powder.  The batter should be as thin as pancake batter since you want to coat the blossoms rather than bury them.  If necessary, add a couple of tablespoons of cold water.</p>
<p>Bake for 30 minutes, until puffed and nicely browned.</p>
<p>While the blossoms are baking, saute the remaining onions and garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in a 2 quart saucepan for 3-4 minutes. Add tomatoes, oregano and salt to taste and simmer, uncovered, for 20-30 minutes.  Add water if the sauce becomes too thick.</p>
<p>Serve baked rellenos with tomato sauce on the side.</p>
<p><em>Aleta Watson</em></div>
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		<title>Jam making for the rest of us</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/jam-making-for-the-rest-of-us/</link>
		<comments>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/jam-making-for-the-rest-of-us/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 23:49:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Preserves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[canning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jam making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pluot with ginger jam]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Russ Parsons]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3495</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
As much as I adore homemade jam, I&#8217;ve always considered it an enormous gamble.  The more I invested in time and ingredients the higher were the odds I would end up with a runny syrup or a rubbery mass better suited for Gummi Bears than toast.  Perfect preserves eluded me.
Neither the old-fashioned cookbooks I inherited [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3496" title="pluot jam1" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/pluot-jam1.jpg" alt="pluot jam1" /></p>
<p>As much as I adore homemade jam, I&#8217;ve always considered it an enormous gamble.  The more I invested in time and ingredients the higher were the odds I would end up with a runny syrup or a rubbery mass better suited for Gummi Bears than toast.  Perfect preserves eluded me.</p>
<p>Neither the old-fashioned cookbooks I inherited from my mom nor the new crop of canning guides and web sites were much help.   Most of their recipes relied on commercial pectin and called for specific amounts of sugar and fruit, stated in cups.  All advised checking whether the jam had set by watching it drip off a spoon or cling to a chilled plate — imprecise measures at best for the uninitiated.</p>
<p>Then I ran across <a href="http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-calcook-20100805,0,2809915.story" target="_blank">Russ Parsons&#8217; advice in the Los Angeles Times </a>this summer and everything began to make sense.  He offered a simple ratio for making small batches of jam using equal weights of sugar and whatever fruit you have on hand.  Because you cook a limited amount of preserves at a time in a non-stick skillet, it&#8217;s easy to tell whether it&#8217;s ready just by watching the syrupy mixture become thick and glossy as you stir.  Flavors are also fresher.<span id="more-3495"></span></p>
<p><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-3509" title="pluot jam4" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/pluot-jam4.jpg" alt="pluot jam4" width="330" height="220" />Parsons still advocates the dripping spoon method of checking for jelling, it&#8217;s true, but the technique is beginning to make some sense to me as I make more jam.  Just to be safe, I&#8217;ve also tracked down a couple of <a href="http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=GH1461" target="_blank">references</a> for jelling temperatures to compare against the signs of the spoon.</p>
<p>I fare much better now that I employ an instant read thermometer to check my jam. The base line is 220 degrees at sea level and a couple of degrees less for each thousand feet of elevation — or 218 degrees at my house.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve also given up on commercial pectin, which sets too quickly and firmly for me.</p>
<p>No longer do I make dense and sticky jam that I can barely pry out of the jar.  Instead, my jams are soft and smooth, singing of ripe fruit and spice.</p>
<p>Using Parsons&#8217; technique, making jam is no longer a daunting enterprise involving scary vats of scalding hot syrup and high odds of failure.   Small batches are easy to handle and encourage experimentation with flavors.  The colorful jars on my shelves are filled now with the likes of strawberry, rhubarb and cardamom or blackberry, lemon and Asian pear jams. Most recently I&#8217;ve been playing with the season&#8217;s plums and pluots — a cross between plums and apricots — spiked with freshly grated ginger.</p>
<p><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-3510" title="pluotjam2" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/pluotjam2.jpg" alt="pluotjam2" width="330" height="335" />This method of making jam requires little specialized equipment other than a kitchen scale.  Because you&#8217;re only cooking a couple of cups at a time, you can avoid the hot water bath processing altogether if you like and just stash your preserves in the fridge.   If you do opt for canning, you don&#8217;t need such a large pot of water since you&#8217;ll only be doing a few jars at a time.  I&#8217;ve downscaled to a tall stock pot with a folding steamer basket in the place of my massive graniteware canning kettle.  A canning funnel is helpful.</p>
<p>Cooking times are reduced, too, because the fruit and sugar sit unattended off the heat for hours after you&#8217;ve brought them to a boil.  When you put a couple of cups of the macerated fruit mixture in a non-stick skillet, it only takes 5-10 minutes to get to the jam stage over medium heat.  Even if you cook off several batches, it doesn&#8217;t take long.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m giving a formal recipe for the pluot and ginger jam here because it&#8217;s often easier to follow a step-by-step procedure the first time around.  But feel free to substitute whatever fresh fruit is in season and any flavor accents that appeal to you.</p>
<p>Many fruits, such as plums, contain so much natural pectin — the thickening agent in jams — that you don&#8217;t have to worry about them setting up.  Others, such as blackberries, can use a little help from mixing with a small amount of a high-pectin fruit like apples or Asian pears.  It&#8217;s actually better if some of your fruit is a little under-ripe because it will contain more pectin and jell easier.</p>
<p>Have fun and let your imagination run free.  Next winter, you&#8217;ll  have the flavors of summer sitting on your pantry shelves just when you need them the most.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3517" title="pluoot jam5" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/pluoot-jam5.jpg" alt="pluoot jam5" /></p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>PLUOT AND GINGER JAM</strong><br />
<em>Makes about 8 half-pint jars</em></p>
<p><strong>Ingredients:</strong><br />
About 2½ pounds pitted pluots or plums<br />
About 2½ pounds sugar<em><br />
</em>2-inch length fresh ginger</p>
<p><em><strong>Special equipment:</strong><br />
</em>Kitchen scale<br />
Instant read thermometer<br />
Half-pint canning jars with lids and rings<br />
Wide-mouthed canning funnel<br />
Deep pot for boiling-water processing<br />
Tongs for removing jars from processor</p>
<p>Chop the fruit into bite sized pieces, weigh and put into a large, heavy pot.   Weigh out an equal amount of sugar and add it to the pot.  Bring the mixture to a boil over medium high heat, stirring to prevent sticking and burning.  Remove from heat and let sit, covered, overnight or at least 8 hours.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re going to can your jam, prepare jars and lids just before the final stage of cooking. Wash jars in hot, soapy water, rinse thoroughly, and place as many as will fit without touching right side up in a tall stock pot with a rack or folded dish towel in the bottom.  Fill pot with enough water to cover the jars by a couple of inches, bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Leave jars in the hot water while you make the jam.</p>
<p>Peel ginger and grate directly into the macerated fruit.  Stir well.   Ladle 2-3 cups of the mixture into a non-stick skillet and cook over medium high heat until it begins to boil.  Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture becomes thick and glossy, about 5-10 minutes.  The jam should reach a temperature of 220 degrees at sea level and a couple of degrees less for every thousand feet elevation.  Or you can check with a cool metal spoon:  When the syrup begins to sheet off the side of the spoon, it&#8217;s ready to put into jars for canning or storage in the refrigerator.</p>
<p>Remove a jar from the pot, drain out any water and insert the canning funnel.  Fill jar with jam to within ¼-inch of the rim.  Wipe the rim with a clean, damp cloth.  Fish a lid out of the canning pot and place atop the jar with the rubberized ring facing down.  Lightly screw the cap down with a ring and place jar back into the canning pot.   Repeat until you&#8217;ve used all the jam.  Bring pot to a boil, adding more water if necessary to keep the water level at least an inch above the tops of jars.  Boil 10 minutes, then turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes.</p>
<p>Remove jars with tongs and let cool undisturbed on a towel with about an inch space between them for 12-24 hours.  You&#8217;ll hear little pings as the jars cool.  That&#8217;s the sign a vacuum seal has formed.  When jars have cooled, check to make sure the center of each lid is depressed.  If you can push the center down and it pops back up, the jam hasn&#8217;t sealed properly.  You should stash it in the refrigerator and eat it fairly soon.  (For more detail on the canning process, check out the University of Missouri extension <a href="http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=GH1452" target="_blank">web site</a>.)</p>
<p>Repeat the cooking and canning process a couple of times until you&#8217;ve finished up all the macerated fruit.  It doesn&#8217;t take that long since the water has already boiled in the canning pot.  Just be sure to refill with boiling water when needed so the water level doesn&#8217;t drop.</p>
<p><em><em>Aleta Watson</em> </em></div>
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		<title>Moroccan salad from the grill</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/moroccan-salad-from-the-grill/</link>
		<comments>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/moroccan-salad-from-the-grill/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:27:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Produce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Salads]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eggplant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moroccan cooking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3476</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I didn&#8217;t grow up eating eggplant.  In my family, broccoli was about as exotic as produce got.  But I was hooked the first time I tasted the  Mediterranean vegetable in a slow-cooked ratatouille served by a friend.
Properly prepared eggplant is a luscious vegetable with the texture of velvet and a mild flavor that harmonizes beautifully [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3477" title="Moroccan salad" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Moroccan-salad.jpg" alt="Moroccan salad" /></p>
<p>I didn&#8217;t grow up eating eggplant.  In my family, broccoli was about as exotic as produce got.  But I was hooked the first time I tasted the  Mediterranean vegetable in a slow-cooked ratatouille served by a friend.</p>
<p>Properly prepared eggplant is a luscious vegetable with the texture of velvet and a mild flavor that harmonizes beautifully with late season tomatoes and peppers. Throughout the summer, we often grill long, slender Asian eggplants to accompany a piece of fish or meat for dinner.</p>
<p>So I was intrigued by the idea of grilling the ingredients  for a Moroccan vegetable salad when I ran across an old recipe in my files from Jozseph Shultz, owner of the recently resurrected <a href="http://www.indiajoze.com/joze.html" target="_blank">India Joze</a> cafe in Santa Cruz.  His directions called for stir-frying the vegetables in a wok.</p>
<p>After a little research in Claudia Roden&#8217;s <a href="http://www.amazon.com/New-Book-Middle-Eastern-Food/dp/0375405062/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1281981659&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank">&#8220;The New Book of Middle Eastern Food,&#8221;</a> (Knopff. 2000),  I decided to turn up the heat as well by seasoning the dressing with cumin and a touch of<em> harissa</em>, a fiery Moroccan chile paste now in available many markets.</p>
<p>The result is a lively salad packed with all the best flavors of late August.  Grilling adds a nice smoky note to the eggplant and brings out the sweetness of the peppers and onions.</p>
<p>This salad works well as a side dish at dinner but is substantial enough to serve as a light lunch or a vegetarian pot luck offering. Although it can be made ahead and refrigerated, I  like it best at room temperature.   Just take it out of the fridge about half an hour or so before serving to let the flavors blossom.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>GRILLED VEGETABLE SALAD WITH MOROCCAN FLAVORS</strong><br />
<em>Serves 6<br />
</em></p>
<p>2 slender Asian eggplants (about 1 pound)<br />
1 red bell pepper<br />
1 green bell pepper<br />
1 medium red onion<br />
2 medium zucchini<br />
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use<br />
Salt and freshly ground pepper<br />
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar<br />
1 clove garlic, minced<br />
1 teaspoon <em>harissa</em> or more to taste (See <strong>Note</strong>)<br />
1 teaspoon ground cumin<br />
1 large tomato, chopped<br />
½ cup Italian parsley, chopped<br />
1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped</p>
<p>Slice eggplants, peppers, onion and zucchini in half vertically, spearing the onion crosswise with a bamboo skewer or toothpicks to hold the layers together.  Brush the vegetables with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season lightly with salt and pepper.  Grill over medium heat, turning as necessary, until eggplants just begin to collapse in on themselves and the onions and zucchini are tender.  The peppers should blacken and blister on the skin side. Remove vegetables from grill and place peppers in a sealed paper bag for 10 or 15 minutes, until they&#8217;re cool enough to handle and peel.  Cut the eggplant, zucchini and peeled peppers into bite-sized chunks. Slice the onion lengthwise into slivers.</p>
<p>Whisk together the remaining olive oil, vinegar, garlic, <em>harissa</em> and cumin in a small bowl.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  The dressing should be spicy but not incendiary.</p>
<p>Combine the vegetables with the dressing in a large bowl.  Add the chopped tomato, parsley and mint.  Toss gently until well mixed and serve.</p>
<p><strong>Note:</strong> <em>Harissa</em> is available in Middle Eastern markets and specialty grocers like Whole Foods.  If you can&#8217;t find it, though, you may substitute the more widely available Asian chile paste known as <em>sambal oelek</em> or a mixture of paprika and ground chile (not chili powder)<em>.</em></p>
<p><em>Aleta Watson with inspiration from Jozseph Schultz </em></div>
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		<title>Bread and tomatoes for late summer feast</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/bread-and-tomatoes-for-late-summer-feast/</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Aug 2010 14:37:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[tapas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tomatoes]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[
In the waning weeks of summer vacation, with the days already getting shorter and the first day of school on the horizon, few of us want to spend a lot of time in the kitchen.  Now is the time to make the most of the incredible bounty of the August garden.
I&#8217;m talking tomatoes, here, of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3457" title="Tomatobreadingredients" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Tomatobreadingredients.jpg" alt="Tomatobreadingredients" width="440" height="660" /></p>
<p>In the waning weeks of summer vacation, with the days already getting shorter and the first day of school on the horizon, few of us want to spend a lot of time in the kitchen.  Now is the time to make the most of the incredible bounty of the August garden.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m talking tomatoes, here, of course.  As far as I&#8217;m concerned, nothing compares to the deep, sun-warmed flavor and chin dripping juiciness of a freshly picked tomato.  Whether it&#8217;s a salty, smoky Cherokee Purple or a nicely acidic Early Girl, a good tomato needs very little help to make a good meal.</p>
<p>A couple of slabs of ripe tomato and a sprinkle of salt is the perfect mid-summer lunch.  Add toasted bread and a salty bit of cured pork and you have a simple feast of the season that crosses continents and cultures.  In America, it&#8217;s a BLT.  In Spain, it&#8217;s <em>pan con tomate, </em>or bread with tomato. <span id="more-3455"></span>One of the most popular offerings in the tapas bars of Barcelona, bread with tomato at its most basic is little more than a generous slice of toasted bread rubbed with the cut side of  a tomato half until the bread has soaked up as much juice and pulp as it can hold.  It&#8217;s a classic marriage of flavor and texture that only takes minutes to prepare. <img class="alignright size-full wp-image-3463" title="Tomatobread" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Tomatobread.jpg" alt="Tomatobread" width="330" height="218" /></p>
<p>From that point, you can embellish as you wish. A clove of garlic rubbed over the toast just before the tomato adds a typically Mediterranean note.  So do a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re particularly flush, a slice or two of Serrano ham is a luxurious addition.   Or, like me, you could make do with some well-crafted domestic prosciutto, which lends savor and a measure of protein.   The ham should be dry-cured and sliced paper thin.  A garnish of good quality anchovy fillet is the crowning touch in my book, but you can leave it off if you share the widespread American prejudice against strongly flavored little fish.</p>
<p>A dish like this doesn&#8217;t really require a recipe, although I discovered a good guide in the new cookbook, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Book-Tapas-Simone-Ortega/dp/0714856134/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1281115834&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank">&#8220;The Book of Tapas,&#8221;</a> by Simone and Ines Ortega (Phaidon, 2010).  It&#8217;s a veritable encyclopedia of the little dishes served in Spain.</p>
<p>The critical point is to use the best ingredients you can find.</p>
<p>A substantial, rustic bread like the Pan Pascal organic demi-miche I found at Trader Joe&#8217;s is essential since it needs to absorb the tomato without falling apart.  A good local sourdough with a dense crumb and not too many holes does the job, too.  Get an unsliced loaf so you can cut thick slices. Toast the slices until well-browned under the broiler, on the grill or even in the toaster if it has wide slots.</p>
<p>The tomato must be very ripe and super juicy.  Dry-farmed Early Girls are ideal but any flavorful beefsteak would be great, too.  Cut the tomato in half across its hemisphere and rub in as much of the juice and pulp as you can.</p>
<p>Then drizzle with a good olive oil and sprinkle with a small pinch of sea salt.</p>
<p>Top with a couple of slices of the dry cured ham, garnish with anchovy if desired, and dig in immediately.  Summer never tasted so good.</p>
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		<title>Savory cake with goat cheese</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:44:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Baking]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[savory cake]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3429</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Sometimes, inspiration comes just when you need it.   I had returned from a wonderful Bakers Dozen tour of Harley Farms in Pescadero last month and was pondering what I could bake with the fabulous goat cheese I had scored when I spotted an article in the New York Times about the French enthusiasm for savory [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3427" title="savorycake1" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/savorycake1.jpg" alt="savorycake1" /></p>
<p>Sometimes, inspiration comes just when you need it.   I had returned from a wonderful <a href="http://www.bakersdozensf.org/" target="_blank">Bakers Dozen</a> tour of <a href="http://www.harleyfarms.com/" target="_blank">Harley Farms</a> in Pescadero last month and was pondering what I could bake with the fabulous goat cheese I had scored when I spotted an <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/14/dining/14cake.html" target="_blank">article</a> in the New York Times about the French enthusiasm for savory quick breads.</p>
<p><em>Cakes salés</em>—savory cakes—is the French term for these popular breads laced with cheese, meat and even vegetables.  They&#8217;re homey loaves, as easy to stir together as muffins, and they&#8217;re served at picnics, parties and potlucks in Paris and beyond.  Sliced or cut into cubes, they make terrific nibbles with a glass of cool wine on a summer afternoon.<span id="more-3429"></span></p>
<p>This was the ideal use for that log <img class="alignright size-full wp-image-3437" title="HFgoat" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/HFgoat.jpg" alt="HFgoat" width="330" height="268" />of creamy chevre that I had picked up at Harley Farms after a morning spent communing with the delightfully friendly goats. The basic recipe is infinitely adaptable and I knew the bright tang of the cheese would bring fresh flavor to a fine-grained bread packed with fresh vegetables.</p>
<p>The first loaf was even better than I anticipated.  Warm out of the oven, the flavors of broccoli, roasted red pepper and goat cheese were irresistible.  The colors were appealing and the broccoli design charming.</p>
<p>The next day, though, the bread was a little dry.  So I did some research and found a variation by Clotilde Dusoulier, of the &#8220;Chocolate &amp; Zucchini&#8221; <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Chocolate-Zucchini-Adventures-Parisian-Kitchen/dp/0767923839/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1280779305&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank">cookbook</a> and <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/" target="_blank">blog,</a> that substitutes yogurt for the milk used in most recipes.</p>
<p>Yogurt did the trick.  The next loaf stayed moist and tempting for a couple of days.</p>
<p>Feel free to put your stamp on this bread.  It takes just as well to cubes of ham and gruyere or bacon and cheddar as it does to goat cheese and vegetables.  Stir up the basic batter, add your signature ingredients, turn into a loaf pan and bake.</p>
<p>Serve with a glass of chilled rose on a warm Saturday afternoon, and you just may find yourself in a French frame of mind.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3428" title="savorycake2" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/savorycake2.jpg" alt="savorycake2" /></p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>GOAT CHEESE, BROCCOLI AND ROASTED PEPPER CAKE</strong><br />
<em>Makes one 9-inch by 5-inch loaf</em></p>
<p>1 red pepper<br />
1 large stalk broccoli<br />
1¾ cups all-purpose flour<br />
2 teaspoons baking powder<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves<br />
3 large eggs<br />
1/3 cup olive oil<br />
½ cup Greek-style yogurt<br />
1 small clove garlic, minced<br />
5 ounces soft goat cheese, cut into small chunks</p>
<p>Preheat oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-inch by 5-inch loaf pan.</p>
<p>Roast pepper over open flame or under broiler, turning often until charred all over.  Place pepper in a paper bag, close, and let steam until cool enough to handle.  Peel, seed and chop into ½ -inch pieces.</p>
<p>Remove broccoli florets from stalk, leaving an inch or so of stem. Discard stalk or save for another dish.  Blanch florets in boiling salted water for 2 minutes.  Drain and rinse with cold water.</p>
<p>In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, pepper, and thyme.  In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, olive oil and yogurt until well blended.  Make a well in the center of dry ingredients, pour in the egg mixture, sprinkle the minced garlic over all, and fold together with a rubber spatula until flour is barely moistened.  Fold in roasted pepper and gently add goat cheese, being careful to keep the cheese chunks intact and evenly distributed throughout the batter.</p>
<p>Pour about a quarter of the batter into the loaf pan and smooth to cover the bottom.  Place broccoli florets in pan so they&#8217;re standing on their stems and resemble tiny trees.  Spoon remaining batter into pan, filling in between the broccoli pieces, and covering their tops.  Smooth top of batter and place pan in oven.</p>
<p>Bake for 40-45 minutes, until cake is a golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf comes out with a few crumbs attached.</p>
<p>Let cool in pan for about 5 minutes, then run a butter knife around the edges of pan to loosen the cake and turn out onto a rack to continue cooling.  May be eaten warm or at room temperature.</p>
<p><em>Aleta Watson</em></div>
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		<title>Peaches shine in galette</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/peaches-shine-in-galette/</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jul 2010 23:20:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Baking]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3402</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Let&#8217;s face it, pie is intimidating for many cooks.  Why else would supermarkets sell so many of those cardboard-like frozen crusts in foil pans?
Never fear, pastryphobes.  The French have given us a marvelous alternative to the pie with perfectly ruffled edges—the galette.   A free-form cross between a pie and an open-faced tart, it makes the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3404" title="peach galette" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/peach-galette.jpg" alt="peach galette" /></p>
<p>Let&#8217;s face it, pie is intimidating for many cooks.  Why else would supermarkets sell so many of those cardboard-like frozen crusts in foil pans?</p>
<p>Never fear, pastryphobes.  The French have given us a marvelous alternative to the pie with perfectly ruffled edges—the <em>galette</em>.   A free-form cross between a pie and an open-faced tart, it makes the perfect showcase for sweet and juicy produce of summer&#8217;s stone fruit season.</p>
<p>What&#8217;s more, it&#8217;s a snap to make and actually is supposed to be irregularly shaped. Call it rustic and revel in the imperfections.<span id="more-3402"></span></p>
<p>The <em>galette</em> crust goes together in minutes with the help of a food processor.  Slice the fruit and toss it with sugar, lemon juice and a little cornstarch.  Then pile the mixture in the center of the rolled-out crust, tuck the edges up around it, and bake until it&#8217;s a beautiful golden brown.  If the crust should sag a little or the juices leak out of the pastry, it only looks that much more appetizing.</p>
<p>This summer, I&#8217;ve been following a very adaptable Martha Stewart recipe for <em>galettes</em>.  A little cornmeal in the pastry enhances the flavor and makes the tender crust sturdy and easy to handle.  It stands up well when nearly overloaded with fruit.</p>
<p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-3410" title="peaches" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/peaches.jpg" alt="peaches" width="330" height="473" />My favorite filling combination is Blenheim apricots and Bing cherries.  Alas, the all-too-short season is over for those varieties, though.</p>
<p>Still, peaches are fantastic, whether paired with blackberries or blueberries.  I like yellow-fleshed varieties with plenty of acid to balance out the sugar.</p>
<p>The legendary Sun Crest peaches, made famous by David &#8220;Mas&#8221; Masumoto in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Epitaph-Peach-Four-Seasons-Family/dp/0062510258/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1280179869&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank">&#8220;Epitaph for a Peach,&#8221;</a> were absolutely incredible.  But I also adore the July Flame peaches we picked up at the Aptos Farmers Market last weekend.</p>
<p>Just be sure to taste any fruit before you buy.  It should be ripe but firm, with a deep, complex flavor.  White-fleshed sugar bombs rarely have the character to make a memorable <em>galette.</em></p>
<p>Plums, nectarines and other fruits should work well, too, but you may need to adjust the amount of sugar.<em><br />
</em></p>
<p>One warning:  If the fruit is very juicy, don&#8217;t try to scrape every bit of sugar and juice out of the bowl and into the <em>galette</em>.   Excess juice<em> </em>is all but guaranteed to leak out of the crust and spread across the baking sheet.</p>
<p>On the other hand, don&#8217;t worry if it does.  The beauty of a <em>galette</em> is no one expects it to look picture perfect.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>PEACH AND BERRY GALETTE</strong><br />
<em>Makes one 10-inch pie</em></p>
<p><strong>For pastry:<br />
</strong>1 cup all-purpose flour<br />
¼ cup cornmeal<br />
1 teaspoon sugar<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ cup (1 stick) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces<br />
¼ cup ice water</p>
<p><strong>For <em>galette</em>:</strong><br />
4-5 large peaches, pitted and cut into eighths<br />
1 pint fresh blueberries or blackberries<br />
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, divided use<br />
Juice of ½ lemon<br />
2 tablespoons cornstarch<br />
Pinch of salt<br />
1 large egg, lightly beaten</p>
<p><strong>Make the pastry:</strong> In the work bowl of a food processor, combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, and salt.  Pulse several times to blend.  Add butter pieces and process just until mixture resembles a coarse meal. With motor running, slowly pour ice water into mixture until dough begins to come together, no more than 30 seconds.  It may not need all the water.</p>
<p>Turn dough onto a large piece of plastic wrap and, using the plastic, gather together into a ball.  Flatten dough to form a disk, wrap tightly and chill for at least 1 hour.  Dough will hold for a day in the refrigerator or up to a month in the freezer.</p>
<p><strong>Assemble <em>galette</em>:</strong> Roll out dough into a 14-inch circle about 1/8-inch thick on a lightly floured work surface, patching and trimming if necessary to get a fairly even edge.  Transfer dough to a large rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  Refrigerate until ready to use, up to one hour.</p>
<p>Preheat oven to 375 degrees while you prepare the filling.   Place blueberries and cut-up peaches in a large bowl.  Toss fruit with ½ cup sugar, lemon juice, cornstarch and salt until well coated.  Arrange fruit mixture in center of chilled pastry dough, leaving a border of about 2 inches around the outside edge.  Gently fold the pastry up over the fruit, pressing the dough into evenly-spaced pleats to enclose the fruit.  Brush the pastry with beaten egg and sprinkle with remaining sugar.</p>
<p>Bake on center rack of oven until crust is browned and juices are bubbling, about 45-50 minutes.  Leave <em>galette</em> on baking sheet and let rest on wire rack until cooled enough to slide onto a serving platter.  Serve warm or at room temperature.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Martha-Stewarts-Baking-Handbook-Stewart/dp/0307236722/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1280184288&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank"><em>Adapted from &#8220;Martha Stewart&#8217;s Baking Handbook,&#8221; by Martha Stewart (Clarkson Potter, 2005)</em></a></div>
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		<title>Strawberries make the salad</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:45:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruit]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[The Berry Bible]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3370</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
When temperatures soar and appetites wilt, nothing is more appealing than a salad packed with cool, crisp greens.  Add a little protein and dinner is ready for the table.
This summer, I&#8217;m enamored with the pork tenderloin salad with warm strawberry dressing I found in &#8220;The Berry Bible,&#8221; by Janie Hibler.  Nominated for a James Beard [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3374" title="Tenderloin salad w:strawberries" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Tenderloin-salad-wstrawberries.jpg" alt="Tenderloin salad w:strawberries" /></p>
<p>When temperatures soar and appetites wilt, nothing is more appealing than a salad packed with cool, crisp greens.  Add a little protein and dinner is ready for the table.</p>
<p>This summer, I&#8217;m enamored with the pork tenderloin salad with warm strawberry dressing I found in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Berry-Bible-Recipes-Cultivated-Berries/dp/1935597124/ref=br_lf_m_1000373401_1_5_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;s=books&amp;pf_rd_p=1265356562&amp;pf_rd_s=center-3&amp;pf_rd_t=1401&amp;pf_rd_i=1000373401&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1J6KERB1SYZVC1K01B9J&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank">&#8220;The Berry Bible,&#8221;</a> by Janie Hibler.  Nominated for a James Beard award when it was first published in 2004, the cookbook is one of the books Amazon Encore is bringing back because customer reviews and other sources indicate they were overlooked and under-appreciated when they were first released.<span id="more-3370"></span></p>
<p>This cookbook is an encyclopedic reference on every variety of berry imaginable, from the Arctic raspberry to the thimbleberry, with recipes for every course from cocktails to dessert.  I&#8217;ve never even tasted or seen most of these berries.  Who even knew you could eat the fruit of the manzanita bush?  But I&#8217;ve made several batches of the tasty strawberry, rhubarb and cardamom jam.  And I can&#8217;t get enough of this memorable salad</p>
<p>With its brilliant colors and intriguing blend of sweet and savory flavors, the salad is impressive enough for company.  Yet it only takes about half an hour to put together.</p>
<p>The tenderloin, rubbed with rosemary and garlic, cooks in 15 to 20 minutes in the oven.  While it&#8217;s roasting, you slice the strawberries and prepare the greens and avocado.  When the pork is done, the dressing is quickly made in the roasting pan with the remaining meat juices.  Slice the pork, arrange everything on a platter and dinner is served.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re expecting a really warm day,  you can roast the meat in the cool of the morning, wrap the cooked meat in aluminum foil, and put it in the fridge until dinner.  Reduce the balsamic vinegar in the roasting pan and refrigerate it, too.  When you&#8217;re ready to eat,  just pop the foil-wrapped package in a toaster oven to warm for about 10 minutes while you reheat the vinegar and juices, then stir in the strawberries and olive oil. Assemble the salad and enjoy.</p>
<p>The combination of tender pork, balsamic-spiked strawberries, luscious avocado and chilled greens is guaranteed to hit the spot on a sweltering day.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>PORK TENDERLOIN SALAD WITH WARM STRAWBERRY DRESSING</strong><br />
<em>Serves 4</em></p>
<p>1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary<br />
1 tablespoon chopped garlic<br />
1 teaspoon coarse salt plus more for seasoning salad<br />
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper<br />
1 pound pork tenderloin<br />
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use<br />
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar<br />
1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced<br />
¼ pound fresh mixed salad greens<br />
1 avocado, pitted, sliced and removed from skin</p>
<p>Preheat oven to 325 degrees</p>
<p>In a small bowl, combine rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper.  Pat the tenderloin dry and rub with the rosemary and garlic mixture.  Place tenderloin in a small roasting pan with 2 tablespoons olive oil and brown on all sides. Transfer pan to the oven and roast meat for 15 to 20 minutes, until it reaches an internal temperature of 150 degrees on a thermometer.  Remove tenderloin from pan, place on plate, cover and set aside while you prepare the dressing.</p>
<p>Place roasting pan over medium-high heat on a stove-top burner, pour in balsamic vinegar and bring to a boil.  With a heat-proof spoon or spatula, scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen the browned bits.  When the vinegar has reduced by nearly half (1 to 2 minutes), add strawberries and olive oil and gently toss.  Turn off heat and set pan aside.</p>
<p>Slice tenderloin into ½ inch thick rounds and pour any collected juices from the plate into the roasting pan with the balsamic and strawberries.</p>
<p>Arrange greens on a platter with the sliced meat on top.  Tuck avocado between the slices.  Drizzle with the warm strawberry dressing, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and serve.</p>
<p><em>Adapted from &#8220;The Berry Bible,&#8221; by Jane Hibler (Amazon Encore, 2010)</em></div>
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		<title>Food books to take to the beach</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/food-books-to-take-to-the-beach/</link>
		<comments>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/food-books-to-take-to-the-beach/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:58:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[cookbooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[52 Loaves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Anthony Bourdain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kim Severson]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Medium Raw]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spoon Fed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tara Austen Weaver]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Butcher and The Vegetarian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[William Alexander]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3321</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Summer books should be entertaining page-turners.  Who wants to get bogged down in obtuse economic theory or convoluted political arguments while stretched out on a beach towel or curled up in an Adirondack chair?
Fortunately for food lovers, there&#8217;s a whole crop of fun reads out this year that explore the culinary world.  You don&#8217;t even [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p>Summer books should be entertaining page-turners.  Who wants to get bogged down in obtuse economic theory or convoluted political arguments while stretched out on a beach towel or curled up in an Adirondack chair?</p>
<p>Fortunately for food lovers, there&#8217;s a whole crop of fun reads out this year that explore the culinary world.  You don&#8217;t even have to be a cook to enjoy these memoirs.  Here are my choices:</p>
<p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-3325" title="spoonfed" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/spoonfed.jpg" alt="spoonfed" width="185" height="297" /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Spoon-Fed-Eight-Cooks-Saved/dp/159448757X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1279045499&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank"><strong>Spoon Fed</strong></a>, by Kim Severson (Riverhead Books, 2010, $25.95).</p>
<p>Kim Severson, one of the best food journalists in the country, has been at the New York Times since 2004 but she began building her reputation at the San Francisco Chronicle six years earlier.  I&#8217;ve always admired her as an excellent reporter with a great eye for the stories that define our times.  She&#8217;s also an engaging writer with a cheeky sense of humor.<span id="more-3321"></span></p>
<p>Severson&#8217;s memoir traces her life from alcoholic despair in Alaska to domestic happiness in Brooklyn with a wife and young daughter.   Yet, like many journalists, she seems more comfortable writing about other people than plumbing her own emotional depths.  Self-deprecating humor is more her style than self-obsession.</p>
<p>So it should be no surprise that she&#8217;s used her life story as the context for illuminating profiles of her mother an some of the most prominent women in the food world, from Marion Cunningham to Marcella Hazan.  The subtitle, &#8220;How Eight Cooks Saved My Life,&#8221; is a bit melodramatic but I&#8217;m willing to forgive that in the face of such charming stories.</p>
<p>Oh yes, there are recipes, too.  I&#8217;m itching to make the Gumbo Z&#8217;Herbes inspired by Leah Chase — maybe in September.</p>
<p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-3335" title="52Loaves" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/52Loaves.jpg" alt="52Loaves" width="193" height="292" /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/52-Loaves-Relentless-Pursuit-Meaning/dp/1565125835/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1279040479&amp;sr=1-3&amp;tag+theskilchro-20"><strong>52 Loaves</strong></a>, by William Alexander (Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill, 2010, $23.95).</p>
<p>William Alexander is a man who redefines obsession.  When he gets his teeth into a project, he doesn&#8217;t let go until he&#8217;s exhausted every comic possibility.</p>
<p>He chronicled his quest for the perfect garden in &#8220;The $64 Tomato&#8221; (Alqonquin Books of Chapel Hill, 2006).  Now he&#8217;s pursuing the Platonic ideal of bread. He wants to recreate the life-changing artisan bread, complete with crisp crust and holey interior, that he still remembers from dinner in a New York restaurant.</p>
<p>The book opens with Alexander — an IT manager by day — preparing to sow his own wheat for the loaf of his dreams. In the course of a year, he consults bread experts, bakes a new loaf from scratch every weekend, enters his bread at the state fair, builds an outdoor brick oven, and braves airport security to take sourdough starter to an ancient monastery in Normandy.</p>
<p>Along the way, he blends encyclopedic detail of the history and science of bread making with laugh-out-loud accounts of his exploits.  Even readers who aren&#8217;t as fascinated as Alexander is with every nuance of great bread will enjoy his tale.</p>
<p>Amateur bakers may learn something, too.  As a sort of epilogue, Alexander gives detailed instructions for building your own <em>levain</em>, or starter, and creating several variations on <em>pain de campagne</em>, otherwise known as peasant bread.</p>
<p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-3340" title="Butcher&amp;Veg" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/ButcherVeg.JPG" alt="Butcher&amp;Veg" width="191" height="285" /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Butcher-Vegetarian-Womans-Through-Crisis/dp/1605299960/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1279045576&amp;sr=1-1&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank"><strong>The Butcher and the Vegetarian</strong></a>, by Tara Austen Weaver (Rodale, 2010, $23.99)</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t let the cover fool you.  This book is not your typical romance novel.  It&#8217;s the story of Tara Austen Weaver&#8217;s flirtation with meat.</p>
<p>A lifelong vegetarian, Weaver was advised by doctors to eat meat to cure an unidentified ailment that had led to chronic fatigue.  She takes us with her to the butcher&#8217;s shop while she tries to make her peace with the idea of eating animals.</p>
<p>Although this could be a heavy, moralistic tome, Austen turns it into an often humorous and lighthearted journey through a world of crown roasts and barbecue that feels exotic to someone raised as a vegetarian.  Confirmed carnivores will learn something about the meat industry as well.</p>
<p>Austen is generous, funny and very likable.  Her story will grab you from the first chapter and keep you reading until she makes her decision about what she should eat for health and happiness.  I just wish she had shared her recipe for Syrian meatballs.</p>
<p><strong><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-3346" title="Med raw" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Med-raw.jpg" alt="Med raw" width="190" height="288" /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Medium-Raw-Bloody-Valentine-People/dp/0061718947/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF&amp;tag=theskilchro-20" target="_blank">Medium Raw</a></strong>, by Anthony Bourdain (Ecco, 2010, $26.99)</p>
<p>The cover photo tells you everything you need to know about Anthony Bourdain&#8217;s life ten years after the publication of the best-selling &#8220;Kitchen Confidential&#8221;:  He may be fingering a knife, but he&#8217;s wearing a suit and tie.</p>
<p>Bourdain no longer cooks for a living in the sweltering, hectic, macho kitchens that he celebrated in his earlier memoir.  Now he writes, serves as a judge on &#8220;Top Chef&#8221; and stars in the Travel Channel&#8217;s &#8220;No Reservations.&#8221;   He&#8217;s remarried and become a doting father.</p>
<p>So, if you&#8217;re expecting another wild ride of drugs and sex, you&#8217;ll be disappointed for the most part.  Bourdain is the first to say he&#8217;s sold out.  Although, he  still writes in the frenetic, profane style of a culinary Hunter S. Thompson, lobbing F-bombs left and right, he&#8217;s lost some of the energy he drew from life in professional kitchens.</p>
<p>This is not so much a memoir as a string of essays.  I could pass on his rant about <a href="http://www.gq.com/contributors/alan-richman" target="_blank">Alan Richman</a>, the food critic of GQ magazine.  But his blustering account of what it feels like to be a father is truly touching and his profiles of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Chang" target="_blank">David Chang</a> of Momofuku fame and Justo Thomas, the cook who fillets fish at Le Bernardin  are some of the best material in the book.</p>
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		<title>Jam jar dressings</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/jam-jar-dressings/</link>
		<comments>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/jam-jar-dressings/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Jul 2010 04:19:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Salads]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jam jar dressings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salad]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vinaigrette]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3301</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
We don&#8217;t buy salad dressing at the supermarket anymore.  It&#8217;s just too easy to make our own now that I&#8217;ve switched to shaking them up in a jam jar.  And the flavor is so much better, not to mention the purity of the ingredients.
I hate to admit it, but I&#8217;ve never been adept at creating [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3302" title="jam jar dressing3" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/jam-jar-dressing3.jpg" alt="jam jar dressing3" /></p>
<p>We don&#8217;t buy salad dressing at the supermarket anymore.  It&#8217;s just too easy to make our own now that I&#8217;ve switched to shaking them up in a jam jar.  And the flavor is so much better, not to mention the purity of the ingredients.</p>
<p>I hate to admit it, but I&#8217;ve never been adept at creating an emulsion by whisking a thin stream of oil into vinegar in the classic technique for making a vinaigrette.  Far too often the dressing separates before I get it to the table.</p>
<p>So I&#8217;ve experimented with all sorts of alternatives, from salad dressing bottles with their own stirrers to jars with markings on the sides for measuring out ingredients.  Nothing works as well as a wide-mouthed jam jar with a tight-fitting lid.<span id="more-3301"></span></p>
<p>Pour the ingredients into the jar, screw on the lid, shake vigorously and you have a beautifully mixed dressing.  If it&#8217;s just family, I&#8217;ll put the jar on the table.  For company, I transfer the contents to a cruet, using a small funnel.</p>
<p>A simple vinaigrette is an obvious candidate for the jam jar but you&#8217;re not limited to that.  I&#8217;ve also adapted a yogurt-based dressing from James Beard and an Asian dressing from Perla Meyers for the jar approach.</p>
<p>For vinaigrette,  I like the standard proportions of 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar.  Extra virgin olive oil is my first choice.  It should be good, but save the pungent, pricey stuff for use as a condiment.   You can substitute a more neutral vegetable oil, such as canola, if you wish.</p>
<p>The vinegar is critical to the balance of flavor.  My new favorite is <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JLF8YS/ref=s9_simh_gw_p325_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0GVHN153K1NHKPQNZT1W&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=470938631&amp;pf_rd_i=507846&amp;theskilchron-20" target="_blank">Banyuls</a>, a fairly expensive French vinegar made from the sweet wine of Grenache grapes and aged in oak barrels for five-plus years.  It&#8217;s mild, nutty and well worth the high price because it goes a long way.  But champagne vinegar or fruit-flavored products such as raspberry vinegar also are very nice.  I avoid harsh red wine vinegars or overpowering balsamic vinegars.</p>
<p>Add a little garlic or shallot, a pinch of salt, some Dijon mustard and freshly ground black pepper and you have a traditional vinaigrette that tastes so much better than anything you can buy. Add minced fresh herbs if you wish.</p>
<p>For the yogurt-based dressing, I&#8217;ve drawn on the recipe labeled &#8220;Dieter&#8217;s Yogurt Dressing,&#8221; in my old copy of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003JFZ80A/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;qid=1278476197&amp;sr=1-1&amp;condition=all" target="_blank">&#8220;The New James Beard,&#8221;</a> by James Beard (Knopf, 1981).    I prefer to think of it as a creamy, healthful alternative to ranch-style dressing.  To pump up the flavors, I&#8217;ve added apple cider vinegar, a little garlic and a trio of finely minced herbs.  Now its a tasty match for crisp, sturdy lettuces such as romaine, Little Gem, or even iceberg.</p>
<p>The Asian-style dressing is a tribute to all the wonderful Chinese chicken salads I&#8217;ve enjoyed over the years.  I love the contrast of a lightly sweet and savory dressing with crunchy greens, shredded chicken, crisp bean threads and nuts.</p>
<p>Finding the right combination of flavors, though, has been a challenge. Some dressing recipes are too sweet.  Others rely too heavily on sesame oil. Finally I decided to riff off a recipe in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0517593572/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;qid=1278476284&amp;sr=1-1-spell&amp;condition=all" target="_blank">&#8220;Fresh from the Garden&#8221;</a> by Perla Meyers (Clarkson Potter, 1996).</p>
<p>This dressing can be made with the ingredients on hand in many kitchens.  I&#8217;ve cut back on the sesame oil, introduced rice vinegar, and substituted sunflower oil for the peanut oil in the original.   Feel free to use canola if you don&#8217;t have the other oils in your pantry.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>JAM JAR SALAD DRESSINGS</strong><br />
<em>Each recipe makes about 1 cup dressing</em></p>
<p><strong>Mustard vinaigrette</strong><br />
1 medium clove garlic<br />
¼ teaspoon salt<br />
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard<br />
2 tablespoons vinegar<br />
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />
Freshly ground black pepper to taste</p>
<p>Mince garlic to a paste with the salt or squeeze through a garlic press.  Add garlic to jar (with salt if using garlic press), vinegar, olive oil and pepper.  Screw lid on tightly and shake until emulsified and creamy.</p>
<p><strong>Yogurt and herb dressing</strong><br />
1 medium clove garlic<br />
¼ teaspoon salt<br />
6-ounce carton of plain yogurt<br />
2 tablespoons white wine or champagne vinegar<br />
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil<br />
1 teaspoon finely minced chives<br />
1 teaspoon finely minced parsley<br />
1 teaspoon finely minced basil<br />
Freshly ground black pepper to taste</p>
<p>Mince garlic to a paste with the salt or squeeze through a garlic press. Add garlic to jar (with salt if using garlic press), yogurt, vinegar, olive oil, chives, parsley, basil and pepper. Screw lid on tightly and shake until all ingredients are well blended and creamy.</p>
<p><strong>Asian dressing</strong><br />
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce<br />
1 tablespoon rice vinegar<br />
1½ teaspoons sugar<br />
¼ teaspoon dry mustard<br />
½ teaspoon sesame oil<br />
1 medium clove garlic, pressed or finely minced<br />
6 tablespoons sunflower oil</p>
<p>Combine all ingredients in jar.  Screw lid on tightly and shake until all ingredients are well blended.</p>
<p><em>Aleta Watson (with inspiration from James Beard and Perla Meyers)</em></div>
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		<title>Fire up the grill for kalbi</title>
		<link>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/fire-up-the-grill-for-kalbi/</link>
		<comments>http://skilletchronicles.com/content/fire-up-the-grill-for-kalbi/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jun 2010 22:09:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aleta</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[barbecue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grill]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kalbi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Korean short ribs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://skilletchronicles.com/content/?p=3261</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Of course you can grill hot dogs and hamburgers at the Fourth of July barbecue. That&#8217;s what most people will expect.
There&#8217;s a whole world of great grilling traditions to explore, though, if you&#8217;d like to try something new.  One of the best is Korean-style barbecue with its sweet and spicy rendition of beef short ribs [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!--Amazon_CLS_IM_START--><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3263" title="kalbi on grill2" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/kalbi-on-grill2.jpg" alt="kalbi on grill2" /></p>
<p>Of course you can grill hot dogs and hamburgers at the Fourth of July barbecue. That&#8217;s what most people will expect.</p>
<p>There&#8217;s a whole world of great grilling traditions to explore, though, if you&#8217;d like to try something new.  One of the best is Korean-style barbecue with its sweet and spicy rendition of beef short ribs known as <em>kalbi</em>.</p>
<p>These are the same tasty, tender ribs you may have cooked over a tabletop grill in a Korean restaurant.   They&#8217;re almost as easy to make at home and they&#8217;re guaranteed to wake up the palates of guests expecting the old standards at the annual Independence Day festivities.  We&#8217;re such a diverse nation, who&#8217;s to say what&#8217;s American food now?<span id="more-3261"></span></p>
<p>Korean-influenced fare is one of the hottest trends in American cooking.  Celebrated chef David Chang has made his name at his string of Momofuku restaurants in New York City with food influenced by his Korean-American upbringing.   In Los Angeles, crowds follow Roy Choi&#8217;s Kogi taco trucks on Twitter for the opportunity to stand in long lines for short rib tacos and burritos.</p>
<p>Making your own is as simple as marinating the meat in soy sauce, sugar, garlic, ginger, and sesame overnight, then quickly cooking the ribs on a hot grill.  They&#8217;re cut so thinly  there&#8217;s little worrying about when they&#8217;re done.</p>
<p>The trickiest part may be finding the right cut of ribs.  The beef chuck short ribs should be cut across the bone about a quarter to a half inch thick, leaving three or four flat bones at the top of a long strip of meat.  Some Asian markets carry this cut but you may have to go to a butcher shop and ask for them to be cut for you.  My butcher calls them English style short ribs, but many cookbooks refer to them as flanken-style ribs.</p>
<p>Lacking a helpful butcher, barbecue guru Steven Raichlen suggests butterflying individual ribs in his latest cookbook, <a href="http://store.grilling4all.com/sm8973.html" target="_blank">&#8220;Planet Barbecue&#8221;</a> (Workman, 2010).  That takes <em>kalbi</em> out of the easy category, however, and I&#8217;m glad I haven&#8217;t had to do it.</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3268" title="kalbi on plate" src="http://skilletchronicles.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/kalbi-on-plate.jpg" alt="kalbi on plate" /></p>
<p>Every Korean family has its own recipe.  I&#8217;ve adapted one from Sang Jung Choi in <a href="http://theasiangrandmotherscookbook.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">&#8220;The Asian Grandmother&#8217;s Cookbook&#8221;</a> by Patricia Tanumihardja (Sasquatch Books, 2009).  She uses kiwi puree to tenderize the meat then adds a big bottle of lemon-lime soda to the marinade for good measure.  Since I just can&#8217;t bring myself to endorse soda in anything, I&#8217;ve increased the honey in the recipe to make up for the omission.  I&#8217;ve also substituted cayenne for the Korean red pepper powder that I couldn&#8217;t find locally.</p>
<p>Traditionally, the meat is cut into strips after it&#8217;s grilled.  Diners wrap the strips in lettuce leaves with a bit of white rice, a little <em>kimchi</em> — the pickled and fermented vegetables at the heart of Korean cuisine — and perhaps a dab of hot sauce for the brave.   I made the quick cucumber <em>kimchi</em> from Chang&#8217;s cookbook, <a href="http://www.ecookbooks.com/p-23589-momofuku.aspx" target="_blank">&#8220;Momofuku&#8221;</a> (Clarkson Potter, 2009), to go with my last batch of <em>kalbi</em> and it delivered quite a kick.</p>
<p>You also could take the fusion route and turn your <em>kalbi</em> into tacos or burritos like the Korean taco trucks in LA. do.  They layer strips of short ribs in a fresh tortilla with  salsa, cilantro and onion relish, and a slaw tossed in a chile-soy vinaigrette.  I like the rib meat in a taco with salsa and the smoked jalapeno sauerkraut from <a href="http://www.farmhouseculture.com/" target="_blank">Farmhouse Culture</a>.</p>
<p>Feel free to make it up as you go along.  It is Independence Day, after all.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>KALBI</strong><br />
(Korean Barbecued Short Ribs)<br />
<em>Serves 4</em></p>
<p>2  pounds beef short ribs cut Korean-style<br />
1 ripe kiwi, peeled and pureed in a blender<br />
1 tablespoon brown sugar<br />
¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce<br />
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped<br />
1-inch length fresh ginger root, peeled and grated<br />
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted in a dry skillet<br />
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil<br />
3 tablespoons honey<br />
1½ teaspoons ground cayenne pepper<br />
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />
Juice of 1 lemon<br />
2 scallions, white and green parts, minced</p>
<p>Rub kiwi puree into both sides of ribs,  sprinkle evenly with brown sugar and set aside.   Blend together the soy sauce, garlic, ginger, sesame seeds, sesame oil, honey, cayenne, black pepper, lemon juice and minced scallions in a medium bowl.  Place ribs in a large shallow pan or zippered plastic bag and pour the marinade over them, turning to be sure they&#8217;re evenly coated.   Cover pan with plastic wrap or seal bag and refrigerate marinating ribs for at least 1 hour but preferably overnight.  Turn ribs periodically to make sure all sides are immersed in the marinade.</p>
<p>Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to high heat.  Clean and brush the grate with oil.  Drain ribs and place directly on the grill.  Cook, turning every couple of minutes until the meats are browned and tender.  Using kitchen shears, cut cooked meat into strips and pile on a serving platter.</p>
<p>Serve with steamed rice, leaves of red lettuce, <em>kimchi</em> and hot sauce, if desired. Or turn into your personal interpretation of Korean tacos.</p>
<p><em>Adapted from &#8220;The Asian Grandmother&#8217;s Cookbook,&#8221; by Patricia Tanumihardja (Sasquatch, 2010)</em></div>
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