The Surf Journal

No Surf No Surf Win Windy

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Fri, 06 Jun 2008 22:08:00 +0000

When all else fails we think we have it all it goes flat. We live the life and now it is time to say goodbye. CJ is leaving town for a better life and now it the time to do what needs to be done. Life is short live large and love life and go for it. Make sense if not no worries.
Just think good thoughts and live large

Man it has been windy and small

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Wed, 04 Jun 2008 17:22:00 +0000

It was time I put something into my blog it has been a while. I have had some cool trips on a boat in the Santa Barbara Channel but nothing to write home about. This time of year the conditions will leave you frustrated and bummed due to lack of good surfing conditions. This is the time of year to hit the road south and make sure u get in on the Southern Hemi's.

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Hit and Miss Surf

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 22:58:00 +0000

The waves have been a combination of wind swell and some minor ground swell but nothing of size or consistency. I broke down and purchased some 1.5 m gloves because I did not want to deal with the frozen hand syndrome every time I surfed. When I first got into the water with the gloves on I rejected them. They felt heavy and it was not the smooth balance I was used too. But after awhile it was like running with ankle weights on and I got into it and will use them when the cold windy days of spring and summer here on the Central Coast. Not much else to write about enough has been said about the Shark attack in Southern Ca. The individual knew the risk and went out doing what he loved I think it is a noble way to go better than a car eh?
Take care and keep the faith and say a prayer for Crazy Joe who took a fall and cracked his face a little....
Peace with one individual at a time. Give a child a chance to get to know some of our favorite animals.

Cold Water Blues

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Wed, 16 Apr 2008 21:37:00 +0000

Sorry for those of you who actually enjoy my Blog but I have not been getting any good surf and when I do it has been cold I mean cold... no more wining
When you are feeling cheap here is a old trailer park favorite!
Courtesy of Crazy Joe's SurfLounge.com
This is a good time to think about going to Mexico and then doing it

*THE TRAILER TRAMP* from “Neko”
--One 12-oz can of RC Cola, chilled OR warm depending on how fast you need a buzz (a worthy substitute is Sam's Cola, a fine product which may be purchased at your local Wal-Mart, or any good cheap generic cola)
--Two shots of really cheap vodka
--One shot of cheap triple sec
(You're going for cheapness here, so save the Grey Goose or Stoli for another time. RC is the official hillbilly cola choice of Neko, but Sam's does well in a pinch and besides, RC isn't available every place. Forget about ice. Ice wastes valuable space in the can which could otherwise be taken up by liquor.)

MIXING: Empty out about 3 oz. (one medium-sized swallow) of cola from the can so's you can get the booze in, then add the vodka & triple sec and give it a good stir with the handle of a fork or something. Drink it straight out of the can. You can add more booze as the level gets low in the can. You can use a funnel if you're really serious about measuring with a shot glass, but it's best to just pour your liquor straight from the bottle to the can and guesstimate how much you put in. Measuring with a shot glass wastes valuable drinking time. Besides, it's not too difficult: when the can's totally full, then you have enough liquor in it. The important thing is to drink it straight from the can because that is what makes a Trailer Tramp really special and also, you can walk around in the morning with one and everybody can pretend that you're not drinking yet.

Last Chance Romance

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Tue, 01 Apr 2008 23:35:00 +0000

This is the beginning of the end of winter. Spring has sprung and it is so cold I estimate the water temp was 48 and the wind chill was down there. I drove up to the parking lot and my friend was pulling out with his wet suit on saying" I was only in there 30 minutes and its too cold for only a few waves". This is not a good sign, but there was a swell and it was the last swell we were going to see for a while so I went for it.

When my hands first hit the water I could not believe how cold it was. I have been surfing these waters for 30 years and it was as cold as I have ever experienced it. It was a matter of mind over water and I kept telling myself to stay busy and not sit for to long. I managed to get a ton of waves and it was a great day. Once I started getting waves the cold did not seem to matter as much. I was in the water for about 90 minutes and had a great time.

When times get tough make sure you have plenty of beer on hand...

Things Can Change Overnight

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 12:41:00 +0000

Life can be like a roller coaster and the swell just pushes it along.. What I am trying to say is as long as I can surf it makes the roller coaster ride more bearable. It is amazing how blessed we are living in California. I must say that with the state of the world today surfing again is paying off like a slot machine. Sometimes it hard for people to understand the life blood that flows thru a surfers veins. The excitement of harmonizing with nature is what it is all about. Weather conditions and physical conditions develop a map in your brain that keeps you on the hunt for more. It can be dangerous for your physical and also your mental and emotional well being. If you live the dream there is no alternative that will meet the need if you surf long enough. It becomes an addition that pushes you to continue to be a part of something you have no control over. The surfers life is one of rolling with the punches or seeking it out in various places around the world.

If you have a dream make sure you are healthy enough to enjoy it. I see to many people who put their dreams on the shelf and don't take a chance because they are afraid of failing or making a fool of themselves in front of friends and family. They fall out of shape because their jobs dictate how they live and what they do. Take a chance and learn from your own mistakes and don't make the same ones twice and you will be better because of the experience.

The last two surf sessions were off the jetty at dawn one day was epic and the next crap the roller coaster just keeps moving on.

Set yourself apart from the crowd by doing something and expect nothing in return today...
Peace

Two sessions no blog

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:26:00 +0000

I have been in one of those funks that keep you from doing what you like. For some reason we do not treat ourselves like we should. In my case it has been one thing after another. The last two sessions have been spread apart and not so good. Last Saturday I went out at a low tide spot on high tide which means I did not get many waves but I did get a good work out and no one in the water. The down side is it was in a remote area that had lots of rocks and when you surf it on high tide there is a good chance you can wind up on those rocks if your not extra careful. I got the killer workout and it was all good.
Yesterday I did a local go out near my house. The wind was calm and the tide was good enough so my friend and I went out and had some shoulder to head high sets. It was a short session but I managed to meet my wave quota and get two really good ones. It always amazes me how the ocean always manages to produce fun waves even in less than conditions. In other words it is always a good go out as long as you get out there!

It is now Spring and time to plant the garden and grow your own greens....
Be good to yourself by helping others.

Two days at the Parking Lot

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 06:41:00 +0000

The last two days I have been in the water at dawn. Daylight savings time took effect last Saturday so on Monday it was weird no one was at the Parking Lot. The sets were overhead and the tide was low. I wasted no time before the crowd would arrive. When I got into the line up I noticed how the low tide were causing the waves to pound the shore. I was a great go out not to many people showed up and all was good. The water and wind chill were hard to deal with I finally had to get out because I was soooooo cold.

Tuesday was a different story on the weather it was warm at dawn 62 with a slight offshore wind. The water even seemed to warm up a little. The waves were still coming in but it was a little smaller and less consistent. It was a great day by all and I managed to get the word from the boys in the parking lot I got the wave of the day so I felt good about that. I had other commitments I was in and out of there. Surfing is my exercise the best part is just getting in and the feeling you get when you get out of the cold conditions. The cold ocean will keep you hardy in spirit and soul.

You may never be what you hoped unless you have given it all you have...

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Back Home and Happy

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 06 Mar 2008 02:58:00 +0000

Our friends in the picture on the right lost their anchor on the way out to this famous surf spot. These guys tried to use a large piece of concrete but they were being dragging around. They asked if they could tie off on our boat and we thought that would be the best thing to do. We were gald to help and they were stoked. We all surfed our buts off for about 3 hours and it all was good.
It is always hard to come back to the crowds...I did it today and after having a great week I took it in stride. There were a few waves today but it was crowded and people were jonesing for waves. I caught a few good ones when I first hit the water. I waited and you guessed it I was rewarded. It was a fun day and I was so thankful just to be back home. The waves were about head high and some of the set waves carried thru into the inside. I caught a great wave for my last one got out and gave thanks....
Keep your mind on positive things and your energy will attract good people into your life.
Peace

Boat Trip Overnight with Greenflash Sunset

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 23:36:00 +0000

I was lucky enough to get invited to go along with a friend for a short surf trip. Just the two of us and uncrowded surf conditions. We launched on Sunday in the late morning and arrived at our destination in the Santa Barbara Channel about 11am. When we arrived the tide was still a bit high but the waves were going off. We did not wait long before we were in the water and surfing for about 3 hours. We were feeling so good catching beautiful waves in warm offshore conditions. Then you paddle back over to the boat take your wetsuit off and soak some rays. Eat great food and have a cold one, life doesn't get much better. At the end of the day I decided to take a couple of pictures and by chance I captured the greenflash. I went to catch a few waves and that I did but the bonus was the pictures of a lifetime!

Go to the bottom of the page to see the Greenflash Sunset. The pics on the left had to shrink down and lost the green line.
Go to the bottom to see larger picture.

The green flash is an atmospheric refractive
phenomenon where the top edge of the Sun will
momentarily turn green. It is seen rarely by the naked
eye, primarily because it requires specific conditions
to occur, but also because it requires the observer to
know what to look for. Despite the name, there is no
"flash"; the event only lasts from a fraction of a
second to at the longest, a few seconds.

The basic cause for the green flash is that refraction
bends the light of the Sun. The atmosphere acts like a
weak prism, separating the light into different
colors. Bluer light is bent more strongly than red
light. However, the amount of refraction even at the
horizon is quite small: only a few seconds of arc (one
second of arc is 1/3600th of a degree). This effect is
magnified by the atmosphere itself. Layering in the
atmosphere causes an effect similar to a horizontal
cylindrical lens: the separation of the color bands is
exaggerated in the vertical direction, so that the
separation can be up to several minutes of arc.

What conditions are required to see the green flash?
The green flash is best observed when you have a clear
view of the horizon uncluttered by foreground objects
and pollution free. This usually means you need to see
a distance of several miles "out", almost to the point
where the curvature of the Earth defines the limit.
This is primarily why stories of seeing the green
flash frequently occur at the ocean. This is due to
the additional amount of atmosphere one is looking
through at the horizon when the Sun is setting. In
addition - and equally important - is the fact that
the line of sight is nearly parallel to the horizon.

OK, then, why is it called a "green" flash and not a
"blue" flash? Because contamination in the atmosphere
scatters blue light removing it from the line of
sight. More green light gets through and therefore is
more clearly seen. In extraordinary conditions, a
"blue" flash might be seen.

Actually, all celestial objects experience the same
effect near the horizon; it is possible to see "green
flashes" from the setting Moon, Venus, or bright stars
like Sirius.

Surf Local Eat Local

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 28 Feb 2008 23:46:00 +0000

The swell came up this morning and was a challenge. It was no easy paddle out for me today. The sets would not let up and the tide was low so I paid the price by taking about 25 waves on the head before I finally made it outside. Once outside I took off on a couple of big sets and I could see that it was only going to get better as the tide and swell worked together to produce some epic waves today, big and fast. I took out my gun today and left the long board behind. It was a good call I caught my quota and more I was stoked not to many people in the water and everyone was cool and having fun. I was so thankful so I gave my thanks and got out!

A Boat Ride

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 28 Feb 2008 23:27:00 +0000

Tuesday this week I made the trip to the Santa Barbara Coastline called the Ranch. The only way to get in if you do not own property is to boat in. We launched at 7am and were in the water surfing about 8:30. We chugged up the coastline and there was no wind and the swell had dropped from the previous day. When we first arrived it was still high tide and the surf was OK but as the tide dropped and the swell jacked up to head high on the sets. Some sweet and clean sets were had by all it was only use three and one other boat with three. We all had a great time. We started back south about 1pm and stopped for one more session before we had to leave. We stopped and to my surprise it was head high and a couple of feet over head on the sets. This was powerful and fun I was slammed more than once but it was all good. We surfed for over an hour and that was about all I could do before my arms fell off.
The place is so clean and peaceful no one around and the ocean was our playgrounds what fun for a bunch of men playing like boys...

First time back after 12 days out

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 19:03:00 +0000

What a rush! I found out that my injury was not that bad and required no additional doctors care. I waited long enough. I went to my favorite parking lot yesterday and the boys were standing around talking about how they had to go to work. It was glassy and the sets were rolling in about every 8 to 10 minutes head high and clean. Well it took me about 5 minutes to get my wetsuit on and Bam I was out there.

My first wave was my best I sat at the outside peak waiting for a big set wave and it only took a few minutes. I was in the perfect spot for the take off when I got to my feet I knew I had to stay high in the face to make the sections out in front of me. I stayed in the top third of the wave just low enough to keep from getting pitched over the falls. It was a gas I was flying and felt weightless and the force drove me to the beach in a matter of second I traveled about 150 yards.
The crowd was light and friendly and my buddies were getting good ones all morning. I had a great time and look forward to this afternoon on the low tide I have my special spot only me and about 20 people will be there...

Feel the power and get in touch with your inner child SURF or whatever it is that keeps you young...

It has been awhile

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 03:51:00 +0000

I have been on the IR (injured reserve) I tore a muscle in my right arm . I did it cutting down a tree that had suffered wind damage. I saved money on my tree and paid the price with my elbow. I will be going in for a MRI this week to find out exactly what happened to my elbow/muscle.
I have not been up for writing so I just have not been doing it. If there is anyone out there who wants to contribute to my blog contact me at stewywho@yahoo.com and we can see if it applies. I am looking for anything related to surfing, ie movies, pics repair, design ideas or techniques anything as it relates to surfing. I would like to see this blog expand into other relms of the sport. So if you want to contribute I am open.... Keep the faith I will be back in the water soon...

AeroGarden

Surfing on the Inside

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Sun, 03 Feb 2008 15:45:00 +0000

Yesterday was a planned go out. This particular place breaks on a low tide and big swell. Yesterday both those conditions along with the proper wind came together about noon. Since it was a Saturday and knowing how this place has only one outside take off zone I decided to get out early during the higher tide and avoid the crowd. So I paddled out about 11 am and it was the proper call. I was the first one in the water I parked were no one would know I was surfing and it worked. I surfed for about 30 minutes before the people started showing up. It was good for the entire time that I was in the water. This place breaks over the rocks and can be dangerous at times especially on high tide. I have damaged many a board at this spot pushing the limit going to far on the inside and getting tossed on the rocks. I am lucky nothing has happed to me but my boards have suffered. My wife was stuffed in the rocks only once and managed to get out with only scrapes and bruises. A lesson you never forget. At this place, the rock are stacked to create a jetty, each rock would fill up the bed of a full size pickup. Large objects like surfboards and people and easily get pushed in between or rolled over and get in very serious trouble in a split second.

I have a ton of respect for this place and always keep in mind that you must move quickly if you happen to get to close to the rocks.

The other side of the coin is, it breaks for about 150 yards on a good day, yesterday I rode a number of waves all the way in. It's a long paddle out but worth it, you get in good shape and ride long waves, what a deal. It got crowded and I rode my last wave all the way in gave thanks and got out...

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Local Day with Good Size

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:32:00 +0000

I was presently surprised today as I went to my favorite spot but it just did not look appealing so I decided to head back home and see what was going on in the hood. It was definably the call. I caught some smoking waves today overhead and screaming down the line. I had three or four that were quick turns on the take off and stay up in the lip to make the screaming sections. I hit all the moves today floater, side slip or free fall, extrema take offs with the tide dropping it was all that and a bag of chips. Days like today surprise you all I wanted was to get wet and ended up getting so many fun waves I can only be thankful and I feel very fortunate that I get to experience this in my life at this point in my life. I will not be lacking for stories when I hit the rocking chair...

Keep the faith and do what you do best!

Make your own beer...

The Last Two Days

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:03:00 +0000

I had to make a business trip to the Bay Area so I always try to plan it so I can stop by the spot I learned to surf at. Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz the surf capital of the Northern California. I was surfing there in the 70's when you were glad to see someone else in the water. It was a time when surfing was making a transition from long boards to short with Twin and Tri Fins. Back then the same 6 to 10 guys on the peak every morning we all looked out for each other and shared a common bond when the sport was not so popular.
Today however it has changed dramatically, when the waves are going off it is the same 75 people in the water. I try to avoid those situations but find myself going out anyway because the waves are so good so long and consistent it is hard to stay out. On Monday I arrived at the Point about 2:30 and it was not so good nor was it crowded. I made a quick decision to go out and surfed for a little over an hour. It was fun the people were friendly and it was primarily long boards. The peak was shifting back and forth but there were waves and it was a great experience. I got out in time managed to get a quick bite to eat and made it to my meeting one minute late!

Tuesday I was back home and went down to the parking lot early and no one was out. The waves were shoulder to head high and coming in about 10 minutes apart. I went out, caught about a dozen waves, and I was surprised that only a few others made it out. It was a good exercise session and put me in the right frame of mind to face my day. I gave my thanks and went about my day....

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South Winds a Blowing

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Mon, 28 Jan 2008 04:20:00 +0000

Today was a windy day from the start. I arrived at my favorite spot about 30 minutes before low tide. The wind was howling off shore and it was cold. The parking lot had not filled up for a Sunday but people were loading in the water. I decided to make a quick decision and go out. The conditions were fun I ended up going way down the beach because it was bigger and less people were there. It continued to build as the minutes went by I found myself stroking hard for the outside more than once to keep from getting a big wave on the head. The first reward was this double overhead bomber going left. With the wind blowing hard up the face of the wave and my 9ft long board going against the wind during the take off I was blinded. Bullets of water piercing my eyes as I got up to my feet in an instant I was looking at a big open face and I could hear guys hooting and howling as I pulled into a freight train of a wave turning up the face to get speed with smooth turns and tons of speed I took it all the way to the beach. What a rush it was so good and then to make it better, a large right peak came right at me I turned around and managed to make the take off. It was a perfect shaped wave moving so rapidly I only could come up to the top so I could draw a straight line and make the second section and kick out. I caught other waves today but the two fore mentioned waves made my day....

A Couple Short Stories and a Picture Peru

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 22:47:00 +0000

That afternoon we made it to the famed Chicama. We
watched 17 waves stack to the horizon. Steve & Eric
hopped off at their first chance of surf. Magoo,
Mackie and I were dropped off at the top of the
point. This wave is so unbelievable. We were getting
rides two to three minutes long. There were fast
barrel sections, lazy areas for cruising and THIRTY
SECOND NOSE RIDES! It took us thirty minutes to run
back up to the top of the point. The best part was
that there was no one out! We surfed till our arms
fell off!

We had a wonderful surf at Chicama, a nice five foot
wave but pure hell....have you ever had your legs
actually go out on you ON A WAVE? You could not
physically surf the whole wave, it is impossible.
I've missed more tube rides, off the lips on one wave
at chicama than a week long trip at natividad because
i had noodle legs. What a helpless feeling being on a
wave and physically tired to the point of barely
standing up. You hear stories of the longest wave in
the world well i don't know what's the longest wave
but that's how long that wave is.

Sooooooo long you can't surf it and it's barely head high.

I got the call yesterday...

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:14:00 +0000

I just finished lunch when my phone rang and it was one of my surf buddies at my favorite spot telling me it was working, glassy, no wind and peeling like cylinders. I was working and found a way to convince myself it was time to take a break and get some stoke. That took all of about 30 seconds of thinking about the conditions and how it was a window that I could not pass up. So what did I do, you guessed it, I went out. There was about 15 people on one spot but down the beach just a few spread out and it was bigger down there as a south was effecting the swell and causing it to wrap down the beach. I was correct it was going off down there and I had a blast with a couple of boys from town. The water was not too clean but what can I say when the conditions show themselves it is time to go. I surfed for about 90 minutes and work was calling so I gave my thanks and got out.

Today is a no go day. In the rain and wind I will work on my Internet businesses and keep the faith....

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It to Wet For Mee

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:11:00 +0000

My last Surf Session was Sunday the most crowded day of the week. This particular day was an extreme tide and the swell was coming in and breaking inside and mushy. The reason I went out was the one or two waves every 10 minutes that were head high and breaking with a slight offshore wind. There was only one person on it, a friend of mine, so bingo I went for the exercise. I know the stormy weather is on its way and most likely I will be out of the water during the major run off from the rains. After a heavy rain the pollution from the land flows into the water. In large metropolitan areas it is really bad. You can imagine all the pollutants that make there way into the break zone! I have been sick or had ear infections after surfing after storms. So the plan is to wait a couple of days and then charge it again. If the waves are really good I may go out but make sure that I am getting the proper rest and eating correctly and I should be fine. The main thing is the ears, water will make it's way in under pressure of the surf, it is not be able to get out and that polluted water gets bacteria growth and infected. That is the concern you must be careful and pay attention to any slight infection get it medicated or stay out because they will not go away if you continue to get into the water. So much for the surfer version of health care... Here is something worth checking out underground music in Cali...

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Last Saturday

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 13:45:00 +0000

It was Saturday morning and it was building, we have been having high tides in the early morning and it has been consistent with long waits. I was on this day, I sat outside and picked off the set waves with no one there, one after another. The conditions were great the waves were about head high on the sets and everyone was having a good time.

When you get into your fifties your mind keeps putting out the orders but the body will sometimes not get the message and you end up struggling to get it together and go with the flow. Saturday was not one of those days for me. I just did everything correctly and managed to do my dance with no one getting in my way or challenging me for the sets.

Little Feat one of my favorite Bands from the 70's wrote a song called YOUR MIND MAKES A PROMISE THAT YOUR BODY CAN'T FILL....

This sums it up as you grow older your mind wants to go forward but your body may not respond like your accustomed too. The point is simple you need to work out everyday if possible. The sport of Kings (surfing) has no time outs, no one to help you off the field and you must be in great shape or you will be pushed out or taken under. I live by this motto, you must challenge yourself everyday to keep yourself sharp and on the edge. The risk takers are the reward makers and if you have taken a risk and failed" you learn" and when you try again you know that your chances will increase with each effort. Surfing and life, what a metaphor for living, take calculated risks take yourself to the edge and take a look where few go and if you like what you see then keep going back for youth and vitality. Keep the body fit and you can abuse it to a certain extent. With the correct diet and exercise it becomes tomorrow not yesterday things may slip but they won't go away....

Keep yourself fit no matter what you do!

Two Days of Surf for me

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 00:37:00 +0000

Thursday was a great day the sun was out it was about 49 degrees and the wind was blowing offshore.
It was 7am and the parking lot started to fill up quickly. I did not feel like surfing with a crowd so I paddled down the beach.
I was stoked to get a few waves without the all the smiling faces. The waves were moving in with a slight hint of a south swell mixed in with the north west swell. I caught two large set waves during my two hours in the water that stood out from the rest. The both were moving rapidly down the line, vertical walls with the winds holding them up, they both broke all the way to the inside. It was a fun day and the conditions were on my side.

Friday was a journey day. A good friend of mine called me the night before asking me if I wanted to go north in the morning. I waited about a half second and said I will be ready at the crack of dawn. It was 6:30 am and the conditions were ripe, the wind was blowing slight offshore and the tide was just high. These conditions call for a special place about 45 minutes up the coast in a remote area. My friend is 44 and he grew up here and knows all the spots and all the stories. I have lived here for almost 30 years and saw something for the first time yesterday. We were about 25 minutes into our journey and my pal pulls off the side of the road and pointed to the hills. I was amazed to see a full herd of ELK one large Male with a large RACK on his head with about 15 females and 6 small ones. What a site we pulled out the Binoculars and viewed them in their element they were about 1 mile away but they were on the side of a hill with no trees they were in plain site.
Every time I drive up north the feeling of freedom overcomes me. The open space, the untouched raw land and the wild animals that have survived man's occupation. It is my recommendation that if you ever get the chance to drive from Monterey to San Luis Obispo on Hy 1 do it. People come from all over the world to experience it. You can just drive thru to LA or SF or camp or hike or stay in cabins lots of choices and beauty to experience. Oh yea, the surf it was not all that great, we expected to see some big overhead surf but it was still too high tide. We were there and we were going out. It was a park you car and walk about 1/4 miles down a cliff to the open beach in a remote area with no one home! We were so stoked with our little bit of freedom, just us and the elements. The waves had a little warble because the tide was still a bit high. We had a chill by the time we got into the water and it made the cold water seem warm. The wetsuits they make these days get the job done, your warm and you still have tremendous flexibility.
The waves did not preform all that well but I managed to get two smoking ones that made my day. This big open beach makes you pay the price of admission. The sand bars are nasty the waves break hard on sand with a strong under toe and make it difficult to paddle through. You had to be selective and make sure you got through the shore pound quickly or like I said you will pay the price by taking a 10 to 20 waves on the head to get past the break line.
We both managed to get our quota, we surfed for about 90 minutes and got out. A couple of young surfers we know showed up and they paddled out after we left. The changing of the guard they had it to themselves and we went back to civilization.

Low Tide and Slamming

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:49:00 +0000

Today was a go out for the conditioning. I went out yesterday and got super tired quickly. I did not surf so well but that is a sign of age. Once you hit your fifties you have good days and you have bad days. The body is a magnificent machine and if properly maintained it will last much longer when you need it. I was so tired yesterday it was an automatic reaction to suit up and get out there today. The sets were about 10 minutes apart but the low tide was in control. The take offs were steep and the ledges were hitting shallow water and compressing anything in its way, including me. I got out once rested for about 10 minutes and went back out caught three more waves the last one had a nice head high peak and it tapered down going left it was a good wave to give thanks and get out on, so I did.

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Today and Last Friday

noreply@blogger.com (Patrick) — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:15:00 +0000

Today it was go out or go crazy. I am still sane however the waves were not so good but the exercise was great. The last couple of days it was going off, well overhead and consistent.
The show was on in our little town all the best surfers in our area showed up and there were some awesome displays of tube ridding. The waves were hitting the sand bar off the pier and it was showing signs of perfection. I did not go out because of the size and the crowds. I have been there done that. I was bummed I must admit for not going out, but my better judgement was telling me CHILL OUT... so I did.
That is why today was a must surf for me..

Friday Jan 11 was my day, I did a double session and had so much fun. It was crowded but it was going off. I hit my quota for wave count and then some. I gave thanks and got out only to get back in three hours later. I surfed until my arms could no longer perform the task I was asking of them.
It was a great day with great waves a rare experience to be cherished..

Keep the faith and make your own beer