THE SYDNEY TARTS

TAG Heuer x Super Mario

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Fri, 23 Jul 2021 03:11:00 +0000

Super Mario Brothers holds a special place in my heart. I have very fond memories of when I was around 7-8 years old, going to my cousin’s place to play the game. It might seem like a little thing but it was something I’d always looked forward to.

I’m not ashamed to say I have the character soft toys. The lego Mario. The tee shirts etc etc. The whole nostalgic money grab works just a little too well on me. It really is a case of "shut up and take my money". In this case, when I saw the teasers I was hooked. I do like TAG Here watches. Not the entry level quartz stuff mind you, but I understand that it's a business and it's bread and butter stuff. However, even if they put Mario on the entry level Formula 1 automatic chrono with the ETA7750/Sellita SW500 for 5 grand I would've put my money down. Seriously.

This announcement was really exciting. Even though deep down I knew it would be the Connected Watch, but I was hopeful that they wouldn't be so predictable and pair Mario with a mechanical chronograph. I could even use it to time my Super Mario Bros speed runs. (not that I’d actually do it, but hey, it’s the possibility that counts right?)

So hopeful was I that signing up to be notified of availability from TAG Heuer was immediate... too bad the response was anything but. Seems like someone somewhere dropped the ball a bit and I never received the notification and looks like I wasn't the only one. And now it's sold out. Was I surprised that it sold out? Not one bit. It's a clever strategy to shift units quickly and at least bring attention to the product line.

What would I have done with the partnership? I’d use the Carrera case, but with the Caliber 16 movement (ETA7750/Sellita SW500) to keep the costs down a little. Have a brick coloured rubber strap with the bricks motive and put the mushroom and star at either end. Use the green pipe as the watch box. These are no brainers. You could substitute the small running seconds hand with a star so it’s always spinning. Or even the spinning fireball from Bowser’s castle. The watch designs itself! Come on Nintendo and Tag! These are free design inputs. Feel free to use them. And send me the revised final product. Email me for the shipping address :P

Romain Jerome Super Mario watch

I’m pretty sure there will be more products coming. But for now, hands down the best collab between a watch brand and Super Mario Bros so far would be the Romain Jerome…

IWC - Pilot's Chronograph AMG Edition

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Tue, 25 May 2021 01:37:00 +0000

pilot

/ˈpʌɪlət/

Noun

A person who operates the flying controls of an aircraft.

By this definition, one would think that a pilot’s watch means a watch for the person who operates or flies an aircraft. Of course, by the same definition, a diver’s watch should be for someone who “dives”.

However, as we all know, watches designed for a specific purpose or style no longer applies to the wearer these days. Therefore, one could say that the design philosophy could also be freed up, and no longer bound by the name of the watch. What am I getting at you ask?

Let’s have a look at the just-launched IWC Pilot’s Chronograph AMG edition. It is the first IWC Pilot’s Watch to be produced in titanium, and features racing-inspired styling cues such as the carbon fibre dial, the carbon fibre look strap and of course, the lightweight titanium case. This is not the first AMG collaboration. The very first IWC AMG watch was based on the Ingenieur (German for engineer) and it was also in titanium, with an in-house time only version as well as ETA 7750 based chronograph.

If you ask me, the Ingenieur collection is a much better fit to AMG - because their whole rasion d’être is about improving the engine and performance of Mercedes-Benz cars, and each engine is built by a single engineer whose signature is on the engine cover. So why is the latest collab a Pilot’s Watch?

Personally I think it was a mistake to have moved the design of the Ingenieur away from the Genta-esque to the vintage '50s look, especially given how popular the “non-round sports watch with integrated bracelet” theme is these days. It’s almost as if they had no choice but to stick it on the Pilot’s Watch as 1) it’s a best selling range for IWC and 2) they won’t sell any if they based it on the current Ingenieur (Yes I know they did one for the 50th anniversary of AMG back in 2017) plus 3) the vintage style isn’t a great fit for AMG with its modern, high performance values (and I stand by my opinion on this).

To be honest AMG feels like they’ve sold out and gone a little too commercial as well. Don’t get me wrong, an AMG C63 is still at the top of my car shopping list and the AMG GT is firmly in the “grail” segment but like IWC they’re sticking pretty much the same engine in everything from A class to X class (yes I know it doesn’t exist but I’m sure they would’ve if they could’ve). So in that sense there is some sort of commonality in rationale.

Back to the watch - it’s a conservative and safe approach. It’s a known quantity, has broad appeal, and almost guaranteed success. But is it appropriate? I’ll direct that question to those who wear a diver’s watch matched to a suit, where the only action the watch sees is the water from the running tap…

(Before someone points out to me that in French, a “pilote” also means driver, as in a car/racing car driver, and therefore in this sense the pilot watch works. You try explaining that to the general public, and why a German-speaking brand would use the French definition, and also Zenith tried this with their pilots range before with a forced motorbike connection. It really doesn’t work…)

So IWC, if you’re reading this, can you please bring back the Genta style Ingenieur?

Hands On: Zenith Chronomaster Sport - LVMH Watch Week 2021

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Fri, 22 Jan 2021 06:32:00 +0000

The current Zenith Chronomaster range, formerly known as the El Primero range, has been a best seller for almost a decade, and almost unchanged. The classic, original 38mm size as well as the larger modern (at the time) 42mm were a mainstay and a consistent performer. It’s an icon of Zenith, with a distinctive at-a-glance tri-colour oversized sub dials and of course, the high beat of 36,000 VPH of the movement. It’s a style that has been around since the very first El Primero equipped model named A386 back in 1969, and as the saying goes, if it ain’t broke...

So why kill off such an iconic, much-loved classic watch? Rolex does ok making the same thing decade on decade. Subtle changes here and there, but the overall look and feel is almost the same. Omega Speedmaster hasn’t changed all that much either since 1957. These are definite examples of enduring classics, with only very minute detail updates. There are of course view points that one shouldn’t tamper with a classic, and others, who feel that if something remains the same it can become quite stale.

Design Evolution of the Chronomaster: 1969 A386, the 42mm version, the Chronomaster 2 from 2019

What if there’s a way to keep the iconic look, but freshen it up at the same time? What if, by combining a few icons from the past catalogue and in turn, bring about something that is both a nod to the past, but set to become a future icon in its own

right? What if it’s possible to take an iconic product and make it even more iconic and distinctive? Well, ladies and gents, wonder no more. Presenting, the new Zenith Chronomaster... SPORT.

At first glimpse, it is still distinctively identifiable as a Zenith, with the 3 (slightly) overlapping colour sub dials. Yes, the date window is still at 4:30. Ok, fine... With a second look, you see the pump pushers and the case shape and the chamfer of the edges remain. On closer inspection, the bezel might be reminiscent of the De Luca II, updated to the oh-so-21st century material of ceramic, but... something’s different. It’s not a tachymetre like it used to be. The markers, the numbers, the scale... wait... these are completely foreign... There’s nothing like it at all... what does it do?? Once you start the chronograph by pressing the pusher at 2:00, feel the crispness that only comes with a column wheel set up, and everything becomes clear.

Watch the central chronograph seconds tick and the first thing you notice is that it’s a lot faster than you’re used to. In fact it’s 6 times faster, by doing a full revolution in 10 seconds. Now the scale on the bezel makes sense. It’s a simple and clear indication of one tenth of a second, something that can only be done due to the high beat of 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second).

This 1/10th of a second indication is made possible by an updated/upgraded/evolution of the El Primero movement, with a longer power reserve of 60 hours, and hacking seconds. In doing so they’ve unfortunately removed a quirk, which is the “back to front” time setting position of the crown. It is now the normal way around with date at position 1 and time change at position 2.

What about the rest of the watch? The case diametre is an immensely wearable 40.5mm, and with shortened lugs, the approx lug-to-lug of 46-7mm, meaning it will fit a lot more wrists as well as offering a better fit. The Chronomaster used to only really sell on a leather strap, but now, the bracelet is perfectly suited to the watch, and you still of course have the option of fitting a leather strap to it if you so wish. Overall watch is very well balanced, sits comfortably and to be quite honest, this could very well be an “only” watch, such is its versatility.

There are two dial options at launch, a clean white base dial, and the black lacquered dial which, matches the ceramic bezel perfectly. The white offers a brilliant contrast, especially with the black lacquer-filled indices and quite possibly, the better option to match with various different colour straps. The sub dials are layered, giving a bit of depth, and features circular guilloche. There is some lume but nothing compared to Zenith’s own Pilot type 20.

Own strap fitted. The white dial will come with a blue cordura style strap

The bracelet is meant to be inspired by the Gay Frere's ladder bracelet, but it's really an updated 3-link Chronomaster bracelet, polished centre links, and now with chamfered edges as well to match the case. The clasp has been changed to a more common single folding clasp with a locking mechanism and micro adjustments.

So the all important question: How does it wear on the wrist? Quite simply, one of the most comfortable watches I have ever worn. The size and proportions are perfect for me. The weight is just right. It can easily go with jeans or with a suit. Dial is highly legible. It feels like your favourite pair of worn in jeans that you’d be happy to live with daily, but it feels that way fresh from the box. Regardless of what you think of “sizing” I would strongly recommend putting it on the wrist first.

Overall, I think Zenith is on to a winner. It’s classically designed, with enough iconic features to make it distinctive; acknowledging the past whilst moving with the times. It is a lot of watch for the money and stacks up very well against its closest competitors. Will it gain the icon status? Only time will tell, but I have a good feeling about this.

The King is Dead. Long Live the King!

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 White dial on bracelet

Reference: 03.3100.3600/21.M3100 Black dial on bracelet

Diametre: 40.5mm stainless steel case

Lug to lug: 47mm

Case height: 13mm

Water resistant: 100m

Power Reserve: 60 hours

Movement: Cal 3600, 36,000VPH automatic chronograph movement showing 1/10th of a second

Australian RRP: $14,300 on bracelet, $13,600 on strap

Available now:

NanoBlocks Vs Petit Blocks: The Block Comparo You Didn't Know You Needed Until Now

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Tue, 12 Jan 2021 03:09:00 +0000

Look before we even begin, I am firmly in the Lego camp, having been brainwashed and brought up on it since I was a wee lil lad, but Legos are also expensive. And space consuming. And when space is at a premium, you downsize. Right? Mini doesn’t quite cut the mustard. You need to size down further... until you reach the nano stage!

To be quite honest I only very lightly dabbled in Nanoblocks, partly due to its basic, blocky nature which can make certain object look cute, in a very low-res sort of way, but these tiny blocks ain’t cheap cheap either. A smallish, basic set will set you back $13 dollar bucks, and the bigger sets, well...

They also lack the “clutch power” that Lego offers, meaning they can be quite flimsy, and at their size, if you accidentally break something and the pieces fly off, you’re not likely to see them again. Hence the generous amount of spare pieces included with each set.

It wasn’t until the kids and I saw these Daiso “Petit Block” that piqued our interest. They looked exactly like Nanoblock, and at $2.80 a pack, who cares if they turn out to be rubbish? It was worth a punt. And punt we did. (It was also the school holidays so I was desperate for anything that might occupy them a while so I could have some peace and quiet.)

Imagine my surprise when they turned out to be a lot better than I’d hoped. The blocks fit very tight, which to young hands can be quite difficult to fit, but once fitted they don’t fall apart as easily as... With the initial impression being so positive, we then decided to invest more. But, how much alike are they? Obviously the Petit Block is the most sincere form of Nanoblock flattery, there are some subtle differences. I just happened to have the flamingo in both version, so a comparison is a must.

These are two distinct interpretations of the flamingo, with the pose better on the Nanoblock and the colours slightly more realistic on the Petit block. Nano also uses round blocks for the neck, and has a sleeker overall design. The Petit Block though, having both legs firmly attached to the "water" is less likely to come part. Something else you don't notice until comparing the two side by side is the fact that the Petit Block is very slightly bigger than Nanoblock, so the two systems are unfortunately, incompatible.

NanoBlock Flamingo - AUD$12.99

Overall, straight out of the bag, the designs of the Petit Block leaves much to to be desired but this is the thing about blocks. You can change it. Make it look better, or have a better stance. You are only limited by your imagination. No need to follow the instructions if you feel like you can do a better job. And therein lies the rub. At $2.80 a packet you could buy multiples and let your imagination run wild in the world of 8-bit-esque 3D block party, without feeling the pinch. Your wallet and your sanity will thank you. Whereas with Nanoblock, you feel obliged to build what is offered and instructed, and because it’s so flimsy, you are half tempted to just glue the whole thing and leave it on display.

Daiso Petit Block -Flamingo AUD$2.80

Ultimately it comes down to you and what you want to build. Petit Block is inexpensive but it is the more limiting in terms of range of colours, choice and types of blocks. However, there are enough options and definitely a great way for anyone to be creative on a tight space and monetary budget.

The Sydney Tarts Top 10 Sneakers for 2020

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Mon, 04 Jan 2021 09:51:00 +0000

2020 has been an interesting year for me in terms of sneakers. It went from a year when I was suppose to go through a period of consolidation (due to lack of storage space…) to a year of… let’s just blame it on the ‘rona shall we? I went a bit nuts and any semblance of self control went out the door (when we were stuck indoors…) The sensible part of me feels that any sneaker that didn’t make my top 10, i really should off load right? But that’s something else for another day perhaps.

I suppose 2020 for me could be classified into 2 categories of sneakers - retros and collabs. Retros are self-explanatory and it’s not new. Collabs? To be honest I cannot be arsed to chase nor am I comfortable paying silly prices for the hottest and overhyped ones, but there are plenty of other interesting designs that for one reason or another aren’t as sought after and as a result, you can them up without a second mortgage.

Here we go with the top 10 pick-ups for 2020, in no particular order.

1. Reebok Shaqnosis

The first pick-up for 2020 makes the list because it pulls at the nostalgic strings - The Reebok Shaqnosis was polarisingly styled, and yet so distinctive it became a classic almost immediately. I was a fan of Shaq back in the days, and my absolute favourite Shaq signature sneaker has to be the Reebok Shaq Attaq, but it did take a while for me to warm up to the Shaqnosis. It’s not something you would just put on and go out, and it’s definitely not something I would wear on court anymore. I was very indecisive on it the last time it retroed but there was no hesitation this time ‘round. It’s not something for everyday wear of course, but it definitely brings back fond memories of my youth and a time when basketball was a big part of my life, (and also a time when we couldn’t afford any of the big name sneakers, so making up for it now…)

2. Nike x Undercover Daybreak

This was a collaboration that was firmly in the shadow of the other, much more hyped but similarly executed one of the Sacai Vapor Waffle. Now before you all start to comment about how different they are, let me be clear this is my way of comforting myself for not being able to afford the Sacai collab. To be honest I’m just as happy with this as it can be had at a huge discount, and one I’ve worn number of times this year.

3. Nike LeBron x James Elliot Icon QS

Would this count as a triple collab? I believe the first drop of these sold out really quickly but for some reason the second drop with fresh colorways just sat? Was it a matter of overestimating the demand and thus over-saturating the market? Not that it matters to me as I was able to pick these up for a song. For some reason the full length air isn’t as soft as I remember given it’s the same tooling as the regular LeBrons 7-8. But maybe it’s because I’ve not broken them in properly yet.

4. Adidas x Alexander Wang Bball Soccer

This is a collab upon collab sneaker this one. Adidas x Alexander Wang as well as Basketball x Soccer. It’s the definition of hybrid! Even the outsole is a hybrid of boost and…whatever the other stuff is. But the sneakers are surprisingly comfortable, the quality is top notch, and being less dramatic as some of his other works, it’s actually more timeless and easier to match.

5. Nike Air Max 2 CB34

Let’s move away from collabs and get back to retros for a bit. Jordan retros went nuts this year, and people tell me it’s due to the documentary “The Last Dance” which got people interested in Air Jordans again and as everyone was locked down, might as well buy the sneakers as a form of escape? This meant other historically significant retros sat on the shelves long enough for me to pick up at retail. This was one of the more iconic sneakers for me personally and it’s something I’ve always wanted to have, even though with all the max air it still feels like a brick. So no, definitely won’t be playing in these. Not even an everyday sneaker, given it’s a bit tough to get in and out of, but this is the price for nostalgia.

6. Y-3 BYW S97

I went through a bit of an Y-3 phase this year. I do like some of the less outlandish designs from Yohji Yamamoto, and even though the retail pricing is very high for what you get, almost all the styles go on sale (minus some of the more popular styles, but then I can do without them). When they are on sale, they’re decent value for money, and the favourite out of all the Y-3 this year would have to be the BYW S97. It strikes a good balance between classic, subtle design, with comfort and brand name…

7. Converse Chuck Taylor CX Disrupt

Chuck Taylors are probably the longest serving retro sneaker range currently available, and every once in a while Converse mixes it up and do something interesting based on the classic silhouette. Now I have nothing against Chucks, and I have owned several pairs in the past, but there are more interesting stuff out there. So apart from the occasional limited editions, they don’t really hold my interest until now. This was something very different; a modern, yet retro futuristic design, at the same time addressing two of my biggest gripes about the Chucks - they’ve made it much easier to put on (ie without the need to untie and retie the laces) and comfort. Yes I know they’ve had the Chuck 2s where they experimented with lunarlon insole that didn’t seem to sell, which was bewildering to me, and the Chuck 70s which I admit, are comfortable. But whatever the formula for the CX foam is works great for me. It’s supportive and compliant without being to overtly bouncy or squishy. Oh, and the stretch canvas? a godsend!! Makes it so much easier to put on and take off. This was definitely something that has been missing. Easily one of my favourites for this year and it has seen plenty of wear.

8. Adidas Streetball

This was a very pleasant surprise. I’ve liked the look of it, but a lot of the colour combos had been a bit too colourful for me. But when these popped up with further discount off sale prices, it was a no brainer. And that they’re comfortable to boot is a bonus. Despite its name, I won’t be playing street ball in these though, as there is no lockdown to speak of. Casual wear however, is perfectly fine.

9. Converse Chuck Taylor Bugs Bunny 80th Anniversary Limited Edition

Quite possibly the only pair of sneakers this year that I probably won’t wear. Bugs Bunny was a part of my afternoon after school. Along with Sophie Lee. Ahem. To be honest, right now, anything that is nostalgic for me is pretty much a “shut up and take my money” prospect. I especially like that Bug’s cheeky personality comes through on the sneakers. Much like the Homer Simpsons Chuck Taylor I have from a few years back - these will most likely remain a pair of “collection/display” sneakers.

10. Air Jordan 3 Denim

This was an unexpected find actually. I was on lunch break one day and decided to pop into the George Street Footlocker to have a look, given I haven’t been in for a while. I saw someone else was trying on a pair of the Jordan 3 Denims. I thought they’d all sold out on release, so I tried my luck and asked the staff whether they had any left in my size. He went out back and brought out the last pair they had. My size! Given how difficult retro Jordans were to come by these days, and to be able to get a classic one with pretty decent colour blocking, AND at a discount for being a member, well… I couldn’t say no…

There are a few late additions for 2020 (December 31st to be exact) which will still count towards 2020 pick-ups, except I won’t take delivery for at least another week or so. Why such a splurge right on the last day? Because I am going to try and be disciplined and do this year what I was supposed to do in 2020, which was to consolidate, and so a literal last minute splurge before the self-imposed disciplinary action… But I will do a review on them once I receive them, and I’m cautiously optimistic that they won’t be disappointing (unlike a number of pairs this year).

Quick Look: Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB189J1

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Wed, 18 Nov 2020 00:12:00 +0000

If I were to choose a click-baity kind of title this would have been something like, “You would be shocked at the price of this Seiko!” but this is not that kind of a website, and as much as I would like to just poke fun and use that title, I won’t.

I came across images of this new release and I was intrigued. It looked fantastic! As a fan and owner of numerous Seiko pieces I thought this was another piece I wouldn’t hesitate to add to the collection. It hits all the marks for me… until I saw the price.

Seiko Prospex SPB189J1

Now it is true and for those who known me well, knows that I am a sucker for nostalgia and I do tend to dwell in the past more than I do in the present… Yes I’m one of those that talks about the good ol’ days (well that goes for all you Rolex-heads as well. You know who you are.) When I first began in retail in the industry, almost 2 decades ago, an Omega Seamaster Professional 300m automatic (better known as the Bond watch) went for RRP of $3100 Aussie dollarbucks. The most expensive Seiko we had in the store was a $750 Seiko kinetic perpetual of sorts (not the funky one with the 4 separate dials.) That watch sat because the vast majority of the Seikos sold in the store was around $150-$200.

My Seiko Prospex Shogun Zimbe Limited Edtion.

How times have changed.

What’s the point? I’m getting to it.

The watch in question is the updated Seiko Shogun (Reference SPB189J1 – remember Seiko doesn’t deal in nicknames. The enthusiasts christen watches with names but… officially…) This seems like the same case and bracelet as the previous generations, with an updated movement and longer power reserve, new dial and hands. Oh, and a big fuss made about the matched date disc colour.

I really like the look. I think the refined hands matches the new triangular indices, and the case is nicely designed and produced. It has gone from a Rolex-esque styling to having an identity of its own. A definitely improvement but I can’t help feel that it might be a little too similar to its sibling now - the “Samurai”. The bracelet still looks and feels like it belongs more on a $100 watch than something with 4 figures, but I guess you are paying for the titanium, the hard coating and the finishing on the case. Judging from the images it certainly won’t look out of place next to a Seamaster or a Tudor. Now if only they would put a bit more effort into the bracelet…

Long gone are the days when the Shogun could be had for around $1000 (before the re-branding to become part of the Prospex line) and even then, one could be had for around $1500, but at that price point it really was only for the Seiko enthusiasts and not the general public. However, credit where it’s due – Seiko has done wonders moving the brand image up the price point. And whether or not you feel it is justified, it’s where they are now positioning the brand.

Seiko SBDC007 - the OG Shogun, with the cursive "Automatic" text and SCUBA at 6:00

Head over to Fratello Watches for some really fantastic pics of the watch. Unless of course, Seiko Australia, you're willing to send me one for some more lifestyle photoshoots?

Seiko Prospex SPB189J1
RRP: 1550 Euro (Approx $2500 AUD)
Case: Titanium 42mm diameter, 13.3mm height, titanium bracelet
Movement: 6R35, 70 hours power reserve
Water Resistance 200m

On The Wrist: Zenith Chronomaster 42mm Blue Dial

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Wed, 11 Nov 2020 03:25:00 +0000

We all know that the tri-colour subdial Zenith Chronomaster with the silvery base dial is a modern classic, with only slight alterations to the case and dial over the past 50-odd years. The classic look, however, may not be for everyone. Just like not everyone wants the classic Speedy moonwatch (gasp horror).

The blue dial version of the Chronomaster was launched in 2016, alongside the dark grey version as well as a “classic car” version, with vertical Geneva stripe finishing on the slate grey dial, mimicking the finishing on car engines. These were an attempt to offer some variations on the theme and to offer alternatives. Did you know, however, that there were actually multiple dial versions of this watch?

Now it never ceases to amaze me just how Rolex is able to garner headlines and in-depth articles out of mere changes in millimetres. I mean, surely there are more important things, even in the watch world, to talk about? Another thing that really gets the the discussion going are the subtle differences in dials/date fonts/text sizes/lines of text/colours of text etc, and each can be discussed in so much detail they almost warrant a thesis. Not to mention the sort of effect on the resale value. So what are the versions exactly?

Version 1: This has the red 36,000VPH line of text underneath Zenith and El Primero at the 12:00 position. Rumour has it that the red text only ever appeared on the prototypes, but there have been a handful spotted out in the wild, meaning there must have been pieces in this configuration that were sold through to retail stores. How rare is it? Who knows? There are no numbers provided and I doubt Zenith will ever provide the numbers.

Version 1: Red 36,000Vph text at 12:00. 6:00 sub dial over 9:00 and 3:00 counters

Version 2: This one goes without the red 36,000VPH text on the dial and has the “wrong” configuration of the 12-hour counter overlapping the running seconds and the minute counter at 9:00 and 3:00 positions respectively. Believed to be produced only for around a year (mid-2016 to mid-2017) before the next version came along.

Version 2: 12: sub dial over the 9:00 and 3:00 sub dials, no 36,000Vph text

Version 3: Final version with the “corrected” dial layout – 9:00 and 3:00 subdials overlapping the 6:00 subdial – thus makes it easier to read the markers for the minute counter (rather than having several minutes obscured). This version was produced from mid-2017 until mid-2019, when the “coloured” models of the Chronomaster range were phased out.

Version 3: 6:00 sub dial is under the 3:00 and 9:00 subdials (image from the Zenith Watch Forum FB Group)

There are still a few of these pieces hanging about at dealers, so have a good close look at the versions using this article as a guide. You never know when you might stumble upon the single red, which I reckon will have the potential to be as sought after as the Rolex double red.

But there’s more…

There is apparently another version with the word “automatic” printed in the 6:00 subdial. I was assured by experts that it exists even though a search through Google yielded nothing. I have seen all the other 3 versions, but this one may just be the unicorn in the Chronomaster range and perhaps, worth seeking out as it may prove to be a decent long-term investment perhaps?

Having said all that, what’s it like on the wrist? I’m sure the purists will scream that 38mm is the only way to go, that it’s the perfect size for the wrist, etc etc. But not everyone’s tastes are the same. And to be honest, although I personally think the 38mm wears bigger than the actual figure suggests, the 42mm also sits nicely, and gives a much more modern look and feel. The date window at 6:00 in the 42mm version is also much neater and better resolved compared to the 4:30 position on the 38mm. Other than that, the case shares the brushed and polished finishing, with the all-important see-through case back. The dial is fully legible, and it really comes down to whether you like the overlapping sub dials or not.

Pushers feel a little stiff for a column wheel chrono; it doesn’t have as much springiness to it, compared to a similarly aged Omega Speedmaster Cal 321, but it is still vastly better compared to a cam and lever chrono. I’m not a fan of the style of folding clasp used on the watch, but then again, I’ve always preferred a pin buckle as they tend to sit flatter, but you do run the risk of possibly dropping the watch when you’re putting it on/taking it off the wrist.

Overall it’s a fantastic version of the classic tri-colour sub dial Chronomaster; to be something a little different and, given its short production run, you’re not likely to run into someone with the same watch.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 42mm

Reference: 03.2040.400/51.C700

Movement: Automatic Calibre 400 El Primero, 36,000vph, 50 hours power reserve

RRP: AU$11,400 on alligator strap/folding clasp; $12,000 on bracelet

2020 Green Dial Watches Part 2: Top 10 With Complications

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Sat, 26 Sep 2020 23:29:00 +0000

To continue our look at green watches launched in 2020, part 2 focuses on watches with complications.

1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

This year we have yet another variation of the extremely successful Offshore range, in black 44mm ceramic case and bezel, and powered by the in-house Calibre 3126/3840 with 59 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours.

2. Breitling Chronomat

The Chronomat played an important part in Breitling's history. Introduced in 1984, when the world was still reeling from the quartz crisis, it was launched as a bold mechanical watch that would become an icon of its era. The new version recalls all the classic styling cues from the 1980s and features the in-house B01 calibre, with 70 hours power reserve and COSC-certified.

3. Bvlgari Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Watch

This is a stunning watch with Malachite used not just for the indices but also in the middle case. Paired to a green strap I think overall, it qualifies for the green watch theme. A classy case with a restrained skeletonisation, coupled with baguette cut diamonds set in the bezel and lugs, it’s high jewellery without being blingy, and with an in-house tourbillon to boot, it has the brains to go with the beauty. 44mm platinum case is no lightweight either. Limited to just 30 pieces.

4. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Forest Green

This is a classic that we all know, but with a gorgeous green dial to be in fashion. 40mm stainless steel case with the dial retaining its original display guided by the Golden Ratio. Powered by the in-house Calibre 90-02, an automatic movement with an off-centred rotor, following the shape of the typically German 3/4 plate.

5. Grand Seiko "Toge" Special Edition

This new model takes inspiration from the Japanese and British legacies of the two respective companies, combining classic British Racing Green with the fine texture of Grand Seiko's signature Mount Iwate dial. The term 峠 (Tōgè), or mountain pass, refers to a navigable route through a mountain range, and this special edition timepiece subtly evokes the image of a spirited drive over the many ridges of Mount Iwate in Northern Japan. Movement is the Japanese automatic Grand Seiko in-house Calibre 9S66 with a power reserve of 3 days.

6. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Saxem

Ok not quite a green dial per se, but the whole damn watch is about as green as they come! SAXEM stands for Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral and is, as the names indicates, an alloy that is the mixture of aluminium oxide (the building block of synthetic sapphire) with rare earth minerals such as thulium, holmium and chromium. Powered by the legendary Zenith El Primero movement, it is limited to 100 pieces.

7. IWC Portugieser Chronograph

This is the Classic Portugieser chrono, with in-house movement and a very much on-trend for 2020 green dial. 41mm stainless steel case, power reserve of 46 hours.

8a. H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindical Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o'clock. H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, invented in the 18th century, it is reminiscent of a worm- or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. Commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring. Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring. Limited to 15 pieces each colour.

8b. MB&F x H. Moser LM101

The Legacy Machine 101 distils the very quintessence of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the passing of time. MB&F has chosen to remove its logo and return to its roots and the origins of horology, when only the movements were signed. The fumé dials are borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F. Limited to 15 pieces each colour.

9. Ressence Type 1 Slim X

The new Type 1 Slim X is a limited-edition piece marking its 10th anniversary. Ressence continues to change the way and the why we experience watches by introducing the first piece of their X collection.

Visually Ressence created a dedicated symbol for the collection that is the fusion of an X, or ten in Latin, and an hourglass. It sits proudly on the hour disc of the Type 1 Slim X. Each of the four watches of the Collection X is limited to 40 pieces and shares the main dark olive-green color. 42mm case in titanium, powered by Ressence patented calibre ROCS 1 - Ressence Orbital Convex System with a power reserve of 36 hours.

10. Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer 02

Hey look I really like this. I don’t know why there is always this hate for Tag Heuer watches and it always seems to be universally poo-pooed by “collectors”. This latest version of the Carrera is powered by the in-house Heuer 02 movement and to me, a much classier look which straddles modernity and timelessness quite nicely. I think This will age well compared to the skeletonised versions. But YMMV. it’s a nice shade of green and with the steel bezel, it works really well. Now if they’ll just refocus their marketing strategy...

Review: Matchbox and JDM Tuner Haul August 2020

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Sun, 20 Sep 2020 23:24:00 +0000

I've actually wanted to do this post for a couple of weeks now, and I'd even taken the photos in preparation for it, but alas, laziness got in the way and so... here we are. It might be a little late, but given the lacklustre distribution and the stores' ambiguous re-stocking timeframe, this is probably still relevant to Australian readers.

I have always been a car guy and played with toy cars for as long as I can remember. I briefly collected 1/18 scale diecast model cars until they became too expensive to purchase willy nilly. So I moved downscale to 1/43, but even these are now to the point where I cannot justify paying 3 figures for. So what do I do? I scour the toy sections and look at Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars and anything else in between. Kinda full circle and back to where I started.

Doing the rounds and checking the pegs has been more disappointing lately more than satisfying as you see the same items staying on pegs for months, or the stores just keep restocking with the same items that no one wanted anymore. Why?? Why do you buy certain things in bulk and not enough of others?? This meant that every time I spot something new, it felt like a mini lottery win.

This haul was from just after mid August in Sydney Australia, and to be honest, I was quite surprised at the Matchbox cars I came across. They were... on time!! Now I'm not a completist, and I only take what I can and what I like, so this is what I ended up with.

The IWC/Mercedes I've already covered in a separate post previously, so on this post I'll focus on the 2 Matchbox superfast and the JDM Tuners.

The Superfast gets its name from the sort of tyres used on the cars - ie they're super fast. but there are also opening doors and more detailed tampos on the cars. The one thing about Matchbox casting is that they tend to be more realistic, in terms of the shape and scale, whereas Hot Wheels would exaggerate certain aspects to make them look "good". I didn't open the regular matchbox cars. Thought I'd save them for another day.

These are supposed to be better made with more details compared to the regular Matchbox cars, to justify their higher price point. To be honest, they feel like the basic Matchbox cars from 20 years ago. I guess if they wanted to keep the $3 basic price point they needed to cut a few corners, and this I can completely understand.

This is probably the best view of the Pontiac.

The tampos looks kinda weird for me - it's almost like they did the stickers then put the doors on after

The JDM Tuners are on a different scale. They're supposed to be a proper1/64, and are larger than the roughly 1/64 scale that the Matchbox cars come in. I believe Matchbox/Hot Wheels/Tomica build theirs to "fit" the "box" so aren't really true 1/64 scale. The JDM Tuners are not cheap, and to be honest, the casting isn't great. However, if I wanted a Toyota Supra with a more realistic casting at the same scale, I'd be looking at $50-60, which, I might add, is how much 1/18 scale model cars used to cost, albeit about 20 years ago. Not all the JDM casting are equal; some are more successful than others. I'm a sucker for anything Toyota Supra (but I draw a line at the fast and furious Supra model made by Jada Toys. That casting is just crap).

JDM Tuner Supra - acceptable casting given the price point...

The Nissan "Hakosuka" - the first generation of the Skyline GTR, from 1969-72. Worth an absolute fortune today

With JDM tuners I'll be very picky in terms of what models I buy. The Hakosuka is possibly one of the best castings done by them (relative to their other models). The Matchbox Superfast I would also be picky and only pick up what I really like. But I really wish we would get more of a choice and better distribution here than what is currently the case.

New Model: Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Thu, 10 Sep 2020 03:36:00 +0000

Do we really need another stainless steel non-round sports watch with a blue dial and integrated bracelet? Frederique Constant seems to think so. Even though there are literally more of these than memes on social media. Is creativity a dying talent in the watch industry, or are the watch buying public to blame? Because the market gets what the market wants, right?

It is also becoming increasingly difficult to differentiate one blue dial steel sports watch from another, as there are really only so many ways this can be done. One way is to add complications, ideally one that isn't widespread and price it reasonably to "disrupt" the market, to borrow an overused marketing term. Disruption is something Frederique Constant does really well, offering in-house movements and aesthetically pleasing watches for less than what some bigger brands were charging for outsourced movements and plagiarised styling. And yet, they struggle to gain traction, especially with the "collector" and "aficionado" lot. Because although they might think themselves experts, all they really are, for the want of a better term, are hypebeasts.

Frederique Constant released their in-house perpetual calendar previously in a classic dress watch style back in 2016, and given the specs, was extremely reasonable at less than US$9000. No, you won't find high watchmaking style decorations, and with 38 hours of power reserve, it is now a little lacking. However if you plan on wearing your watch, it's not an issue. This is the movement (FC-755) found in the latest steel sports watch offering - the Highlife. There are 3 different models on offer to start with; the 3-hander with date and the open heart, both powered by Sellita and finally, the Perpetual Calendar, which is the focus of this post.

What is really amazing is that FC manages to cram all these complications in to a relatively snug packaging, measuring a relatively svelte 41mm in diametre and just 12.65mm thick. And this is achieved with a full rotor, albeit you'll have to go without a running seconds hand. These come with a quick change bracelet/strap system, and a spare strap is delivered with each watch. The overall layout is reminiscent of the Vacheron Overseas Perpetual Calendar but that's only in gold for the moment and it's 10 times the price! The case reminds me of the Omega Constellation, and the bracelet? take your pick. It's not an original design by any stretch. (the first Highlife was more original) but given this sort of style is very much in vogue right now, elegantly styled and likely won't date too quickly, this is a value-for-money proposition that shouldn't be ignored.

The blue dial on bracelet is available in Australia for RRP$13,917

Geneva Watch Days 2020 - My Top 4 Picks

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Thu, 10 Sep 2020 01:22:00 +0000

Did you know there was a watch fair back at the end of August? There were like almost 20 exhibitors. Yeah man. You'd be forgiven if you thought all that happened recently was the new/not so new Rolexes. oh. And the new S class. There were some gems launched by a number of brands that you may have missed, believe it or not.

It was the Geneva Watch Days and it went from 26th of August to the 29th of August. It wasn't a big fair, mind you. Just a number of brands all launching new products in the Geneva area. And online.

Here are my picks of the show. And just a quick reminder that watches are immensely personal, and these are MY picks, which may not be your picks, but that's what makes this hobby so interesting. We don't have to like the same things but as long as there are more and more people wanting to know about watches and appreciate the craftsmanship, the better it is.

Therefore, without further ado, and in no particular order (apart from the order in which they are recalled in my brain)...

Bvlgari Aluminium - There is a personal connection to this range of watches, which harks back to the days when I was just fresh out of uni, in my very first full time job selling watches and what not. We had a few of these in the Bvlgari counter. In those days, for the life of me, I could not understand why people are willing to pay so much for something made from aluminium and rubber, by a jewellery company no less, when you could have a much, much nicer Omega Seamaster Bond watch. (Mind you, I felt the same about Cartier). Having said that, the design did stick with me as it was so different to everything that was available back then (early 2000s) and believe it or not, I am very happy to see it back, powered now by trusty workhorse movements from ETA, and at a relatively bargain basement pricing. (Think about it. 20 years ago it was around the same price as the Omega Seamaster. Now it's half.) I wish they would've kept the Diagono name though.

Gerald Genta - I've always liked the Gerald Genta, not just because he designed some truly iconic watches, but his own branded watches. Very glad to see Bvlgari bringing it back, and in the bi-retrograde form. Gerald Genta watches features a fair bit back in the OG days of the Tarts, there was a bronze Gefica Safari, which was the first watch in bronze, the mickey mouse bi-retrograde, amongst others. I'm sure I have photos of these, but if I do, they're stored somewhere in an external HDD and it's a little too hard to go look for them now... I find retrograde displays really fascinating, especially the moment when the hand bounces back in an instant. This release in 2020 is cased in titanium, and at 15,000 Euro, it is relatively accessible. And if you consider the alternatives, there are much, much less worthy Genta designed watches you can choose at that price. I would pick the Bi-Retro any day. Oh, and if my budget only stretched to the lower 4 figures, the aforementioned Bvlgari aluminium is actually, believe it or not, based on a Genta design.

Girard Perregaux - I have a soft spot for GP. I really do. I don't know why they're not as appreciated these days. I'm at a complete loss for reasons. This year GP brought out the "Infinity" range of watches, all featuring black onyx dials. The Laureato gets all the attention because... well... it's kinda because the steel sports watch is all the rage at the moment. But personally, I love the Vintage 1945 because 1) Art Deco style 2) it's not round and 3) BIG DATE! and 4) moonphase! However I do wish the hands were also in rose gold though.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2RE - The FB is one of those brands that disappeared for a while, and then brought back to life back in 2006, by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, president of Chopard, and made a grand entrance with the FB1. As much I appreciate the craftsmanship, the styling left me cold. This, however, has my complete attention. Yes it is more traditional and perhaps less avant-garde compared to the debut album, but being inspired by the marine chronometre they made centuries ago is just fantastic. You can see some of the marine clocsk at the MIH if you ever get the chance to go, it's well worth the trip. Ferdinand Berthoud played a large and important part of watchmaking history, and was based in Neuchatel. The name might only be revived in the last couple of decades, but the history is legit.

Ferdinand Berthoud Marine Clock No.12, 1774

2020 Green Dial Watches Part 1: Top 15 Time Only Watches

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Mon, 24 Aug 2020 23:57:00 +0000

Green is the new blue.

Previous years there has been a few splatter of green dial watches. Nothing dramatic and most of the time paired to a bronze case. But 2020 seems to be the year where being seen to be green is in fashion.

Green is a symbol of hope, luck, growth, and nature in many cultures. Today, it also symbolises environmental protection. There is nothing more eco-friendly than a watch that is powered either by the movement of your wrist or a simple wind up of a mainspring which stores energy in a barrel, which will continue to run (with careful maintenance) for decades?

Now, stop being green and think the grass is greener on the other side. Here are a wristful of green watches that will surely make others green with envy. Go ahead. You have the green light.

The following is a list of the top 15 green mechanical/automatic simple 2/3 hand watches with/without date we could find that were launched in just 2020 alone. In alphabetical order:

1. Ball AWF Limited Edition

The Ball Engineer III Mavelight AWF watch was designed for the Australian Watch Forum, the largest Facebook group for watch enthusiasts. 904L grade stainless steel, 40mm case size.

2. Bell & Ross BR03-92 HUD limited to 999 pieces

The collection is directly inspired by the navigation tools of aircraft cockpit. The new BR03‑92 H.U.D (Head-Up Display) gets inspiration from the avionics displays of fighter jets equipped with the most cutting-edge technology. The case is matte black ceramic, 42mm, green sapphire crystal and water resistant to 100m. Power reserve of 38 hours.

3. Blancpain Bathyscaphe Mokarran limited to 50 Pieces

A special watch dedicated to protecting the great Hammerhead shark. This model will be available exclusively in Blancpain boutiques in New York and Las Vegas. A total of $50,000 will be added to the brand's regular contributions to promoting, respecting and protecting the fascinating world of the oceans. Case is in black ceramic, measuring 43.6mm x 13.8mm. Water resistant to 300m, powered by in-house calibre 1318 with 120 hours power reserve.

4. Bovet Miss Audrey

It features a green guilloché dial inspired by the lotus flower that reflects sumptuous shades. This timepiece is also housed in the Amadéo® convertible 36mm stainless steel case. The bezel and the iconic bow are set with diamonds.The case's convertible feature allows the timepiece to be worn on the wrist, transformed into a table clock or turned into a pendant without tools. Total of 1.04ct diamonds. Water resistant to 30m.

5. Eberhard Traversetolo Hope

The green dial was chosen as it symbolises hope. Stainless steel 43mm case, water resistant to 50m

6. Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey

The Vintage Rally "Healey" limited editions were created as a result of a partnership between the Frederique Constant Manufacture and the Austin-Healey car brand. Established in 2004, the bond has never been broken; seventeen years of allegiance and fellowship between watchmaking and mechanics, punctuated by rallies, meetings, races and a shared passion for retro design. 40mm stainless steel case, water resistant to 50m. The caseback has been engraved with an Austin-Healey and powered by Frederique Constant caliber FC-303 with a power reserve of 38 hours.

7. Kurono Anniversary Green ‘森:Mori' Limited edition of 288 pieces.

To commemorate the first anniversary of Kurono, made by watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. Stainless steel case with a high curvature sapphire crystal, powered by Miyota's calibre 90S5, with a 42-hour power reserve. Proudly made in Japan and hand assembled.

8. Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

Housed in the Classic, pebble-shaped case, this new version is cased in grade 5 titanium. The hand-wound Calibre LF 116.01 is equipped with a free-sprung balance and a Breguet overcoil.

9. Longines HydroConquest Green Boutique Edition

41mm stainless steel case, with sapphire crystal and water resistant to 300 meters. Green ceramic bezel insert. Powered by Longines caliber L888.5 (base ETA A31.L11) with a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 64 hours.

10. Montblanc Heritage Automatic

40mm case in 18kt yellow gold, a steel caseback with Minerva Manufacture engraving, water resistant to 50 meters. Powered b by Montblanc caliber MB 24.27 (base Sellita) with a power reserve of 42 hours. It features a flat hairspring and a flat hoop balance.

11. Norqain Independence 20 Limited to 200 pieces

We mentioned the brand Norqain before, and this is the first piece to use the Kenissi movement. Stainless steel case, 42mm diametre, Kenissi movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Water resistant to 100m.

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41

41mm stainless steel case, AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and it is water resistant to 150 meters. Powered by in-house caliber 8900 with a power reserve of 60 hours. Co-Axial escapement. Certified Master Chronometer by METAS, and resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. Free sprung-balance with silicon balance spring.

13. Oris x Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five

This special steel and bronze version of the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is made in collaboration with the independent Japanese company Momotaro Jeans. Named after a Japanese folklore hero, Momotaro was launched in 2006 by Hisao Manabe. Its roots lie in his textile company, which he established in 1992 with just three employees in the small coastal town of Kojima in Okayama. Stainless steel 40mm case, rotating bezel with bronze edge. Water resistant to 100m, powered by Oris calibre 733 (base Sellita SW200-1) with a power reserve of 38 hours.

14. Rado Captain Cook Diver Green 42

Stainless steel case measuring 42mm x 48.6mm x 12.3mm, water resistant to 300m. Steel bezel with polished green ceramic insert. Powered by ETA caliber C07.611 with a power reserve of 80 hours.

15. Urban Jürgensen Big 8 "London Edition" Limited to 10 pieces

This limited edition watch will donate all profits to the Wellcome Trust COVID-Zero Research Fund.

Stainless steel case 40mm x 10.8mm, water resistant to 30m. Soldered tear-drop shaped lugs. Powered by Urban-Jurgensen caliber FP1160 (base F. Piguet) with a power reserve of 48 hours. It features a 21kt gold rotor with guilloché decoration.

When Worlds Collide - Hot Wheels IWC Racing Team Transport feat. IWC Ingenieur

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Wed, 19 Aug 2020 01:39:00 +0000

When worlds collide

Collabs are nothing new. Fashion. Music. We can all rattle off at least half a dozen car/watch collabs. This was certainly not something I’d expect to happen at all and it was quite the nice surprise when I first knew of its existence.

Is it an obscure collab? Perhaps. But cars and watches do go together and it’s kinda only logical for that to extend to model cars, and by virtue of association, toy cars. You might think of Hot Wheels as toys. And yes, primarily they are toys for kids. But they are also collectable for... those who are kids at heart.

So how did this collab come about? It helped that IWC has a historical racing team, featuring none other than the famed Mercedes-Benz 300SL Gull Wing. It also helped that Chris Grainger just happened to be a Hot Wheels collector, and you can see his collection in an interview he did with Lamley Group. Of course, having one of the Hot Wheels designers being a watch enthusiast sealed the deal. I don’t think there would be that much crossover between Hot Wheels collectors and watch enthusiasts, but I just happen to be one of them.

Knowing about this and actually finding it in stores are two completely different things. If anyone from Hot Wheels/Mattel Australia is reading this: fix it!!

The lack of consistent distribution in Australia makes collecting and tracking down certain highly sought after models a real pain in the backside. (Yes. Highly sought after. Don’t get me started. Oh ok you did.) At the moment, in Australia, certain Japanese cars are all the rage. To give you an example, the Nissan 300ZX. This, I have never seen at retail, apart from the most recent police livery which isn't as popular.

I don’t have the time to do the rounds every single day and even then you’re never really sure if 1) the stores actually received allocation of certain boxes and 2) whether the staff at said store actually displayed ALL the cars from a case rather than keeping then and buying it themselves and scalp online to supplement their income and 3) let's say all the cars are displayed on the pegs, you’d have to be at the right store at the right time and hope and pray that it hasn’t already been cleaned out by professional collectors/scalpers.

I’ve seen this in action personally where during one of my rare rounds of all the stores that stock them, I’d see the same 1 or 2 people doing the exact same route. And all of us leaving empty handed became we were all too slow. Or just didn’t have the right “connects”. And then you have the overstock of certain cases, where the pegs would be overflowing with the same few cars and they stay on the pegs forever because anyone that wanted one, or 10, already have them, but if these stay on the pegs the stores aren’t going to refill them with something new.

But that’s a long rant way off on a somewhat related tangent. Back to the model at hand.

When I saw this I felt like I’d won the lottery. Yes it is exactly like that. It’s not an empty metaphor. I’ve seen and bought others from the set, but this particular model was a rare sight indeed. well, to be fair, any real world sighting of team transport is hard to come by. But I guess the monster trucks are the best seller, considering how much stock and variations are stocked everywhere...

So how much do I like this set? So much so that i resorted to forking out ebay tax for another one. Why you ask? Because it’s the nerdy collector in me. Must be mint in box. Or at the very least, to have one to open and play/display, and another in box to keep.

Look, I think for the majority of Hot Wheels collectors, this collab might not mean much to them. You get a nice 300SL and the truck is a brand new casting. The colour scheme is well done and it is overall a fairly nice model at the price point. I doubt many of these will go to kids as toys. For me, it’s one of those rare items where it appeals to a couple of my hobbies.

I have decided to pair the model with an IWC Ingenieur in the photo shoot. No this isn’t current anymore, but i felt this was the best iteration and style for the Ingenieur. It also should be the feature range of the watch for the Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 team (and it was, in the first couple of years of the partnership), given Ingenieur = Engineer, and yes I get that ”pilot” in French also applies to the f1 drivers, but it’s a bit of a stretch...

Is this a review on the model? Nope. Just sharing my thoughts about an improbable collaboration between Hot Wheels and IWC Schaffhausen. I would love to see more coming from this pairing. The models aren't bad at all, especially considering the retail price it is set at, and it's likely my favourite Team Transport so far.

New Model: Tudor Royal 2020 Quick Look and Full Pricing

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Tue, 28 Jul 2020 00:49:00 +0000

Given the plethora of non-round steel luxury sports watches available in the market, Tudor thought, why not? Let’s dust off an old name plate and cash in on this madness. Heck, Maurice Lacroix did so well with their 80s/90s inspired Aikon, why not do the same thing? Good thing though. There are other coloured dials to be had.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Auto 42mm, Sellita SW200 Movt, AUD$2400

From all accounts this model is a limited regional release, for the Asian (read: Chinese) markets only, and that is why Jay Chou, brand ambassador, was chosen to write and direct the advertisement for it (look it up on Jay Chou's instagram). It seems to be a relatively subdued launch, without all the fanfare usually associated with Rolex and Tudor. Perhaps the current depressed economic climate and low consumer confidence due to the pandemic has something to do with it? Or the fact that there was no Baselworld this year?

The watch comes in 4 different sizes, to suit all different shaped and sized wrists. So all of you out there (you know who you are) who feel 41mm is too big and 38mm is too small, then... you're outta luck here and best try the Maurice Lacroix Aikon, which now comes in a 39mm case size! Note, if you want the day-date look, it is only available in 41mm size.

However, let’s give credit where it’s due. If you want a 90s inspired blue dial stainless steel sports watch with integrated bracelet, you could do much worse than the aforementioned Maurice Lacroix. Bloody well priced too. But if you MUST have a Rolex Datejust or an Oysterquartz but can’t stump up enough dough for either, and you’re perfectly happy with a Tudor branding and an ETA movement inside (not that there’s anything wrong with these - they’re reliable workhorses), then Tudor has your number, and this is the exact watch for you.

Oysterquartz 19019 white gold day-date, image: antiquorum.swiss

Spex:

Tudor Royal 41mm

ETA 2834 movement, 38 hours power reserve.100m water resistant.

Price: Approx AUD$3500 in steel, AUD$5000 steel/gold

Tudor Royal 38mm

ETA 2824 movement, 38 hours power reserve. 100m water resistant

Price: Approx AUD$3400 in steel, AUD$5900 steel/gold

Tudor Royal 34mm

ETA 2824 movement, 38 hours power reserve, 100m water resistant

Price: Approx AUD$3350 in steel, AUD$5900 in steel/gold

Tudor Royal 28mm

ETA 2671 movement, 38 hours power reserve, MOP dial and diamond indices, 100m water resistant

Price: Approx AUD$4250 in steel, AUD$6000 in steel/gold

Industry News: MCH unveils its new platform - HOURUNIVERSE (previously Baselworld)

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Fri, 24 Jul 2020 07:18:00 +0000

You may have heard the news that MCH is re-branding Baselworld, because apparently it's had such bad press and negative associations that it was deemed necessary to cut loose and set adrift. REALLY? AND THIS NEW BRANDING IS ANY BETTER? And whilst the fair includes not just watches, but also jewellery and gemstones, this new name isn't exactly all-inclusive. On the contrary. I'm sure this will go down nicely with all the jewellery, gemstone, packaging, accessories and machinery supplies exhibitors.

I mean, who came up with the name? Baselworld 2.0 would've been better. Or heck, even Baselverse. This seriously drew a collective face palm from pretty much everyone in the industry. And I'm sure they've just sent even more brands over to Watch and Wonders, whose name is at least much more inclusive in the term "wonders" which could be applied to just about everything.

View of Basel

So we thought the final nail had already been well and truly hammered when COVID-19 hastened the discontinuation of Baselworld, but now? It's been sent through the furnace and only ashes remain. Sorry Murdoch - you bought a pile of burnt up rubble... The issues with Baselworld was that the fair format had outstayed its welcome and was no longer relevant in today's world. Not to mention the price gouging. From everyone. From the fair itself, to the surrounding hotels and restaurant. Gouge. The brand was never the issue. All they had to do was listen to the exhibitors who each paid exorbitant sums of Swiss Francs in order to participate in the show. They're the customers that MCH should be listening to. All of them. The brands know what is needed and what is required for them to return to a show that will benefit all. But no. Rebranding. That'll fix everything...

Messe Basel - Venue of Baselworld

I don't usually like to regurgitate the whole press release but this was so bad it's... no... it's just bad.

Here it is in full (and please pay particular attention to the final 3 words):

MCH is creating a new concept for a global platform for the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries: HOURUNIVERSE.

Two months to listen, analyse, identify; and create. An innovative platform to meet today's needs. To unite and support a whole community that wants to regroup, make a new start and is receptive to change.

Open, modern, experimental, inclusive, user-friendly, interconnected, the MCH teams have put all their expertise and the feedback and input from customers and other stakeholders into giving birth to a new platform concept.

An extended ecosystem

Live and virtual, active all year round, benefiting from the latest technologies for content, and for networking, the new platform is dedicated to players in the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries, but not exclusively.

The new concept is a B2B2C meeting point that places the customer at the heart of its focus, reversing the order of the past. The entire platform is thought out and designed around the customer. This applies to all players of the distribution chain, traditional and online retailers, including those of the CPO (certified Pre-Owned).

Flanking them, the platform will build an extended ecosystem with watch, jewellery and gemstone brands, developers of new solutions in distribution, marketing and points of sale, and other players of the industry. A global, varied, interconnected, unified world.

A 365 platform, with an annual live meeting

Named HOURUNIVERSE, the platform will be digitally active throughout the year and will host an annual live show.

A community platform that creates bridges between buyers and sellers and all the players in the industry, it is also a place that encourages exchanges, information-sharing, content creation, reflection through talks and conferences that also provide visibility for brands and their products.

In April 2021, the community will meet at HOURUNIVERSE in Basel, Switzerland. The show will be aligned with the watchmaking events in Geneva, in the best interests of the international community which will only have to travel to Switzerland once a year.

The show will reinforce contacts thanks to new tools, the creation of content, a maximum of Touch & Feel experiences, as well as moments of conviviality, networking and fully integrated events. Along with this new customer-oriented approach, a new competitive hospitality concept will also be an integral part of the packages proposed, and those associated players of Basel life will not be exempt from this involvement.

The detailed concept of HOURUNIVERSE will be unveiled late August in combination with the start of marketing.

HOURUNIVERSE: IT'S WE TIME!

Feature: Sporty Roman Numeral Watches Part 1 - Romain Jerome Steampunk 46

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Tue, 21 Jul 2020 11:21:00 +0000

Who said watches with Roman numerals has to be dressy?

There seems to be a preconception that watches with Roman numerals are dressy. Think Cartier. Off the top of my head, Cartier has really made the Roman numeral design their own, especially when combined with a rectangular case. A cursory Google search seems to also confirm that the vast majority of watch brands utilises Roman numerals to “dress up” their models.

One might pose the question whether Roman numerals always makes a watch look dressier? Are there instances where the watch errs on the side of casual, Maybe even sporty, with a large diameter case? ask no more. In the following 3-part series, we will look at 3 watches all with Roman numerals, in 3 very different interpretations, and none of them can really be described as “dressy”. Maybe you could get away with wearing the with a suit, but I doubt any of them would fit in with a black tie event. (In the traditional sense. We’re not talking Aussie black tie, which can mean anything from a tux to jeans, t-shirt, sports jacket and sneakers.)

Part the first:

Romain Jerome Steampunk 46 - 2015

I still remember the first time I came to know Romain Jerome. And my reaction is far from favourable. The watch? The titanic DNA. the reaction? Let's just say it was NSFW. Well. NSFAnything really... however, something that polarising definitely sticks in your mind and over the years RJ has broadened their horizon to include some incredible pieces such the subcraft, to the extremely niche market Hello Kitty watches... and somewhere in between, watches that appealed to my childhood nostalgia such as the Space Invaders and the Super Mario Bros... Let’s just say that I’ve come to appreciate its quirks and its audacity to be so different in a seemingly still-quite-conservative Swiss Watch industry. Yeah I know there are a lot of so-called self-anointed “disruptors” but who are we kidding? Most of the industry is still extremely traditional, despite what their marketing material may say.

It is however, quite saddening to hear of their bankruptcy earlier this year, as well, their funding dried up in the very trying luxury market, especially for an independent niche brand such as RJ, and all the more depressing especially when I've had the opportunity to meet some of the really lovely people working for the brand at Baselworld (when it was still around...) Hopefully the brand will somehow find its way back, but in the meantime, let's have a look at one of the more distinctive designs from the brand.

This might be an entry level sort of watch, but by no means does it mean cheap and cheerful. Far from it. The moment you hold the piece in your hand you know you have something quite special. You feel it in its weight. You see it in the details, and you definitely notice it in your wallet. Comes with the territory of being a limited production run. This version? Just 999 pieces. There are a couple of other versions; a shinier polished steel case and one in 18k rose gold.

Now I’ve always had a soft spot for everything steampunk and retro futuristic style. I think calling this piece steampunk is probably stretching the term a little, but I am very taken with the style, and now that they’ve tossed the “rusted” bezel look of the titanic, it works even better with just a smooth, albeit somewhat aged industrial look, nicely juxtaposed with the smooth black case claws and shiny screws on the dial.

Speaking of the dial; yes there is a dial, even though at first glance it might seem skeletonised. In closer inspection there is no hint of the movement, but multiple layers of patterns, in different finishing, which gives it a subtle three-dimension design. Although the OCD in me may prefer a completely symmetrical look, I do like the fact the small propeller running seconds at 9:00 position acts as a charming small reminder of its beginnings as a ship-themed watch.

The strap is usually the first thing to come off a watch for me, but in this instance, one major obstacle stopped me from doing so... I didn’t know how. It’s not the usual arrangement of spring bar, strap, and lugs. Apparently one needs to use a special tool to remove the strap. Whilst I wait for said missing tool to arrive, I have no choice but to wear the OEM Strap. And it’s actually not a bad thing. It tapers from being quite thick at the lugs to thin and soft at the other end. It holds the shape and supports the watch quite well, at the same time being very comfortable to wear. One thing I didn’t like is the folding clasp (and RJ aren’t alone in this) which felt cheap and flimsy. So off it came and a sturdy, thick pin buckle I had lying around went on. Perfect.

The watch comes with a solid case back, making identifying the beating heart that much more difficult. According to the internet, it’s built by LaJoux-Perret or Concepto on a Valjoux 7750 base, meaning it should be relatively reliable but not exactly “uh-house”. Does that turn you off? It depends on what you want out of a watch movement. As nice as an in-house movement is, sometimes you just want something simple, reliable, and most important aspect of all - serviceability. A competent watchmaker will be able to service simple. Complications, well... can be complicated and lead to unwanted um... complications...

Despite its outlandish styling, and seeming large-watch size, the watch as a whole is quite stealthy, helped by the use of matte black case and black strap. I was hoping to put a vintage dark brown calf strap on the watch to bring out the steampunk vibe even more. Its relatively short lug-to-lug length makes it much more wearable than the diameter suggest, and yes, it sits very well and comfortable on the wrist. It is not a watch that will have mass appeal and it doesn’t need to. Given the relatively low production run and the uncertainty over the brand’s future, chances of seeing a Romain Jerome watch in the wild is likely to remain in the realm of a steel Daytona in stock for retail.

Lug to lug 48mm

Diameter 46mm

USD 12500 or approx AUD 19000

The Definitive Guide to Watches in Formula 1: 2020 Edition

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Fri, 10 Jul 2020 06:06:00 +0000

Formula 1 for 2020 is back on! And what a start to the season with an excitement and drama-filled first race of the season in Austria! So we thought it was time we updated our feature on watches in Formula 1. Can you believe the last time we did a post on this topic it was back in 2013! Certainly a lot has changed since then, so without further ado, it's LIGHTS OUT AND AWAY WE GO!!!

Rolex - The official timing partner for Formula 1 since 2013, and continues to dominate all the track landscapes with the corporate green and gold logo.

Pirelli - The official supplier of tyres for all the teams. Pirelli has a partnership with Roger Dubuis, and there are models specifically made in collaboration where the strap is made from actual tyres of race winning cars.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli

And now, in order of the current Constructor's Championship standing so far in 2020 (after the first race), here are the watch partners for each team:

1. Mercedes - IWC has been a partner with Mercedes-AMG team since 2013 and it seems to be a very successful partnership as they continue into 2020 and possibly beyond. Numerous limited editions has been produced for both the teams and the drivers, with Lewis Hamilton taking the additional step in customising his own version. IWC watches can also be seen on numerous top management in the team including Toto Wolfe and various engineers/team members.

IWC limited edition Pilot watches for Mercedes-AMG

2. McLaren Renault - It's so refreshing to see McLaren so high up in the standings after many years languishing mid-pack. Let's hope this new trend continues. The official watch partner is Richard Mille, who himself is a fan of racing and races classic cars himself. Amazingly Richard has cornered the market, partnering up with three teams on the grid. The partnership with McLaren extends to drivers in the team both wearing Richard Mille timepieces.

The RM50-03 - valued at just under USD$1 million

3. Ferrari has a long standing partnership with Hublot and again, it is one that is working extremely well for both parties, as Ferrari owners are very much Hublot owners. Numerous limited editions produced, as well as watches designed by Ferrari like the Hublot TechFrame.

4. Racing Point BWT Mercedes - Formerly Force India, we have mentioned before regarding their partnership with TW Steel. This was followed by an obscure "lifestyle" partnership with Felio Siby, who designed an even more obscure watch, powered by a movement from Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. This didn't last long and after Force India went into administration in 2018, and was taken over by a consortium lead by billionaire Lawrence Stroll, it's had no watch partnerships.

Felio Siby Force India Watch

The current drivers for Racing Point, however, do wear watches and Sergio Perez is even a bit of a watch collector. He has admitted to owning around 20 timepieces and each of them were purchased for special occasions as a memento, the first one for the first salary that he received, followed by first podium, first child, etc. He has been quite diplomatic in not mentioning any brands. However, a quick dig around the interwebs revealed a few stand outs. Franc Vila presented Perez his very own watch back in 2010, when he announced his debut with Sauber for the following year in F1. Of course, when you drive for Sauber, you had to represent the team's watch partner which was Certina. When Perez went over to McLaren in 2013 he had TAG Heuer watches, and I'm assuming he had to wear TW Steel with Force India.

And Lance Stroll? He's had an Oris watch from his days at Williams, but no watches right now at Racing Point, but given he's the son of a billionaire...

Franc Vila Sergio Perez

5. Alpha Tauri Honda - Previously Scuderia Toro Rosso, or Red Bull junior, they've had an ongoing partnership with Casio Edifice. Given this season has only just started we're yet to see a proper Alpha Tauri watch, as Casio is still marketing the previous Toro Rosso edition.

The 2020 Alpha Tauri F1 Car

Casio Edifice Toro Rosso

6. Renault - The partnership with Bell and Ross has been going for a few years now, and again, there is a certain synergy between the brands. Also, both being French probably helps too. The Bell and Ross watches for the Renault F1 team over the years has always been quite striking and distinctive, using various F1 design motifs and team colours as inspiration. The drivers are given a limited edition watch that corresponds to their racing number.

Bell & Ross BR X-1 Tourbillon R.S.20

7. Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari - The second team partnered with Richard Mille. Kimi Raikkonen, one of the drivers for the team, has his own Richard Mille watch. In more recent times, Alfa Romeo only returned to F1 racing in 2018, as a title sponsor for the Sauber team. It last competed in F1 back in 1985. From 2019 onwards, Alfa Romeo took over the team completely the and Sauber name was dropped from the entry list. Certina used to be a long standing watch partner with Sauber team.

Richard Mille RM50-04 Kimi

8. Williams Mercedes - Oris was a long time partner with Williams until they shifted their focus to more eco-friendly initiatives. There is currently no watch partner for Williams, although it seems driver George Russell is wearing an IWC Pilot, possibly due to his ties with Mercedes as a factory-backed driver, and Nicholas Latifi, being the son of multi-billionaire Michael Latifi, can probably buy whatever watch he wants. Latifi is the owner of Sofina Foods and invested 200 million Euro back in 2018 for a 10 percent stake in McLaren Group. Sofina is also the main sponsor for the team this year and quite possibly may become the owner.

George Russell (Left) seen wearing an IWC Pilot in 2019. Can't tell what Robert Kubica is wearing though.

9. Aston Martin Red Bull Racing - TAG Heuer has been a partner with Red Bull ever since they parted ways with McLaren. Red Bull was with Casio, and they still are via their junior team, Alpha Tauri. TAG Heuer has close ties to F1 and was at one stage the official timekeeper for Formula 1 (as Heuer, back in 1974 and remained until the end of the decade, when it passed the torch to Longines). One of the best selling lines of watches from TAG Heuer is actually called "Formula 1".

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Red Bull Special Edition

10. HAAS - the third team with ties to Richard Mille, and a team that's going through really tough times on track. Partnership extends to drivers, both of whom can be seen wearing RM timepieces.

HAAS F1 team

And there you have it. 2020 will be an interesting year for Formula 1, as they deal with the aftermath of the Coronavirus and work out the best way to get the race numbers up. There are also a number of changes coming up in 2021, with Racing Point becoming the official Aston Martin racing team, and the possibility of Williams changing hands... one thing is for sure. Formula 1 is never lacking in drama and we hope to bring you another edition of watches in Formula 1 next year.

Profile: Anita Porchet

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Sun, 05 Jul 2020 10:56:00 +0000

Anita Porchet - Portrait from thenakedwatchmaker.com

What do you think of when the word ‘enamel’ is mentioned?

I think of shiny smooth white dials, a kiln firing at 800 odd degrees Celsius and... that's about it really. Not much else comes to mind. Nevermind the fact that the art of enamelling is an art form that one may not master even after 20 or even 30 years of experience. There is nothing quite like a clean, crisp, white enamel dial, and Seiko’s use of it is a testament to the elegance in simplicity. But the art of enamelling, that’s a whole ‘nother thing. What? How hard can it be to do a white enamel dial? You've come to the right place.

Many years ago when I was lucky enough to have visited Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, during a tour of their in-house enamel workshop, founded by Miklos Merczel, we were told that enamelling was a craft in danger of being lost to time – it wasn’t being taught in schools, and apprentices weren’t willing to invest decades into honing the craft.

Things have changed dramatically since then. Due to the increased demand of enamelled timepieces over the past decade it is again being professionally taught, and new life given to a once dying craft. However, this may be a blessing and a curse. It is no longer as rare as it used to be, and although the price of admission isn’t exactly low, those with the means are able to acquire a piece of miniature art relatively easily. It almost became industrialised insomuch as a craft can be; a product, rather than art. There are views that the Swiss watch industry should keep some things ‘sacred’ and not mass produce everything because of demand.

Hermes Cape Cod

So what exactly does it take to become a master enameller? Like watchmaking it is a highly skilled craft and takes years, if not decades, to be anywhere near good enough for your craft to be recognised and perhaps commissioned by brands (watch or otherwise) or an in-house artisan.

Currently, one of the most respected and revered is the independent master enameller, Anita Porchet, although if you ask her, she would not call herself that. In fact, after two decades of producing amazing pieces for the likes of Patek Philippe (who were one of the first to recognise her talent), Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Hermes, and other prestigious Maisons, she still feels that she has not mastered the art. And therein lies the problem of the industry.

Piaget The Rose - Featuring Cloisonné technique

As with many crafts, increasing popularity entices more people to study it, with some not hesitating to label themselves “enameller” with mere months of experience. For sure there are some talented artists who may acquire the skills of miniaturising art, but enamel isn’t like painting. It requires time to be familiar with the raw materials, to know when the grain is fine enough, and to time each firing in the kiln to perfection, as a few seconds too long in the kiln can ruin months’ worth of work. Impurities in the glass can cause bubbles or discolouration. There are no shortcuts.

Working on Piaget - The Rose

Anita Porchet was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds and learnt the basics of enamel work through her godfather, before studying fine arts. It would turn out to be portentous when she won a Patek Philippe prize shortly after graduating. Her significance is as such that in 2015 the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie presented her with the “Hommage au Talent” prize. It is important to note that as well as her own artistic work and her apprentices, she has also taught, including at the School of Applied Arts (EAA) in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Various enamel colours

She started out solo in the 1980s, establishing her home studio in the countryside somewhere between Geneva and Lausanne in 1993. She now has three apprentices. During her long career she has experienced the dramatic rise in demand of the craft last two decades; from almost no takers to brands spending millions creating enamel timepieces. Back in the mid-1990s, Patek Philippe requested from Anita Porchet her first enamel dials. Then other Maisons followed. She became more skilled and more proficient, and over the years created an unique signature, as well as mastering a wide range of disciplines:

Champlevé - which consists of cutting away troughs or cells in a metal plate and filling the depressions with enamel. The raised metal lines between the cutout areas form the design outline.

Paillonné (Spangling) - which involves applying microscopic specks of gold leaf to the enamel

Cloisonné - a technique that allows the motif to be outlined with a gold wire finer than a hair’s breadth

Grisaille - a technique by which an image is executed entirely in shades of grey and usually severely modelled to create the illusion of sculpture

Limoges - white painting - using enamel very finely ground with heavy vegetable oils, which gives a very thick white paste.

Dawn on the lake by Anita Porchet for Patek Philippe's175th anniversary

A Patek Philippe dome clock with cloisonne and paillone enamel

Some of her more challenging work included creating the ceiling of the Opéra Garnier on the Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers” for Vacheron Constantin, the reproduction of Judith by Gustav Klimt on a Patek Philippe pocketwatch involved a combination of techniques.

Opéra Garnier on the Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers” for Vacheron Constantin

Porchet has achieved her consistent level of quality only after years of experimentation, and it can take up to a year to finish a complex dial. Each firing in the kiln can last between 30 to 90 seconds. Even if the timing is perfect, it is no guarantee the step WILL be successful. “Cracks on enamel do not all happen for the same reasons,” Porchet explains to Robb Report. “The origin of the cracks can come from the quality of the colour, from the thickness, or from the metal. I try to find a solution for each case, but it’s not always possible.” It is this skill, accumulation of experience over time, that makes Anita Porchet a master enameller, a title which I’m sure she will refuse.

*I mentioned the significance of Patek Philippe to the career of Anita Porchet. One of the first things that those new to Patek (and who are not native French speakers) learn is that the ‘émail’ on some dials does not refer to electronic mail but that it is the French word for enamel. Thus, an enameller is an ‘émailler’.

Quick Look: Chanel Coco Clock

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Wed, 01 Jul 2020 06:31:00 +0000

This recently popped up on one of my feeds and quite frankly, I was intrigued. Mind you, Chanel isn’t a brand that’s on my radar, and even though I was aware of their accomplishments in the watchmaking world, Chanel to me were handbags and perfumes, with the occasional lipstick thrown in the mix.

Now, dear readers, before your thumbs start tapping and drawing out the pitchfork emoticon, hear me out. Or rather, keep scrolling.

I still remember quite fondly the time my colleague and I visited the flagship boutique at 31 Rue Cambon, because she wanted to buy the bag. I think it was the 2.55. To be honest I don’t remember this particular detail. They all look the same to me. Yes, iconic and unmistakably Chanel in black with quilted diamond pattern, but otherwise... Of course, who can forget the No.5 perfume? As someone who is not a keen disciple of the fashion industry, I think that pretty much covers it...

Let’s get back to the topic at hand. When I saw this my interest piqued. What a wonderful and whimsical display! Such Playfulness. I needed to know more! But guess what? Clocks, being something less “commercial” today, it was surprisingly difficult to find any information of note to quench my thirst. What’s that you say? The official website? Sure. Have a look. It’s not exactly brimming with information on this particular item of whimsicality. Therefore i fired up Google, and let my fingers do the research.

Chanel J12 feat. Coco, Limited to 555 pieces each colour.

It appears that this caricature of Coco Chanel was first used to tell the time on the J12 ceramic watch back in 2017 (that I could find. Leave a comment below if I’m wrong), in a limited edition of 555 pieces per colour (well, black or white). They have brought her back in a table clock form this year. There was a different version of the clock previously featuring a dial inspired by her love of coromandel screens. The obsidian case is of course, inspired by the shape of the stopper on the perfume No.5, which in turn was directly inspired by the shape of Place Vendôme in Paris.

Chanel Coromandel Clock

Bird's eye view of Place Vendome

What I really wanted information on, and something that was difficult to come by, was the movement in the clock. From first glance it’s skeletonised mechanical movement, but it’s too large to be a watch movement, as my first instinct was that it was the Calibre 2, designed with the help from Romain Gauthier, in the shape inspired by a Camellia flower; a favourite of Coco’s. Upon further digging, I managed to find what i needed. The movement appears to have been designed by Chanel Creative Studio and produced by the famed L’Epee Manufacture. You know, the ones that do all the clock collabs with MB&F, not to mention some really cool clocks of their own. The dial features a playful caricature of Coco Chanel, complete in diamonds and pearls, with cloissone enamel by master enameller Anita Porchet.

Chanel Calibre 2 - in the shape of a Camellia flower

8 Day clock movement, designed by Chanel, produced by L'Epee

The other collab which is much more distinctively L’Epee, the Chronosphere, was more widely covered.

The Chronosphere, Collab with L'Epee

So there you have it. I’m sure I wasn’t the only one dying to know what was powering the mademoiselle clock. There’s gotta be at least another 1-2 of you out there. And in case you’re wondering why there was another Chanel related article, it was the search for this clock movement that led me to the whole Kenissi movement supplier, which was covered in the previous post.

Coco Clock Specs:

Dimensions: 110mm x 153mm x 61mm

Cased in Obsidian

18k gold base with 136 diamonds

18k gold ring with 305 diamonds

8 Day power reserve manual wind with winding key

LImited Edition of 10 pieces

Price: Approx. $756,000 AUD

Talking Shop: New Kids On The Block - Kenissi, Norqain, Fortis

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Fri, 26 Jun 2020 01:45:00 +0000

When we talk about the major players in the Swiss watch movement manufacturing, certain names come immediately to mind - ETA is generally the first, mostly followed by Sellita (keeping in mind that Unitas and Valjoux are part ETA). However, there could soon be a third vying for attention, once their new factory is fully operational sometime in 2021-22.

If you guessed Kenissi, you’d be correct. If your reaction is “huh?” then keep reading.

Not much is known about Kenissi’s founder, only that the owner is an industrial supplier of sapphire crystal across the industry. It moved into movement manufacture, managed by Eric Yvon Pirson (head of Tudor), Jean-Paul Girardin (formerly of Breitling), and Philippe Jacques Dalloz. They are constructing a new movement production site (within a building that will be 150m long) in Le Locle, (home of Zenith, UN, Tissot, Mont Blanc and others) on land owned by Rolex, but with ownership shared between Tudor, Kenissi and Chanel.

Kenissi already produces movements for Tudor as their “Manufacture” movement, which debuted in the Tudor North Flag (2015), followed by Breitling in 2017, and then in a highly finished form for the new Chanel J12 in 2019.

Tudor Manufacture Calibre

Breitling Calibre B20

The movement itself is well known, and the specs are nothing to sneeze at. It features a full balance bridge with two fixed points for added structural rigidity and shock resistance, COSC-certifiation, and with a very practical 70-hour power reserve. The GMT version features a jumping hour which allows the wearer to easily set the local time as well as changing the date backwards and forwards at any moment.

Chanel Calibre J12.1

The new ‘Manufacture’ will mean a massive increase in production capabilities and will allow ease of continued supplies to Tudor and Breitling as well as simultaneously expanding their client base, which already includes Norqain and more recently, Fortis. Given the trajectory, it is not farfetched to consider that more brands will look to Kenissi as a possible alternative to ETA/ Sellita, with Bell & Ross a strong contender to be next (possibly due to its Chanel connections).

Norqain Calibre NN20

Who is Norqain?

Norqain is an independent, family-operated business that was founded in 2018 by Ben Küffer (formerly of Breitling), who brought on his father, Marc Küffer, as Chairman of the Board. Marc was the owner and CEO of Swiss luxury watch producer Roventa-Henex (a private label watchmaker since 1959 - making watches for the likes of Farer), member of the Board of Directors of the Swiss Watch Industry Association for 25 years and also being on the board of Ulysses Nardin. Ted Schneider, from the family that owned Breitling for nearly 40 years, and Mark Streit, the Swiss ice hockey legend and Stanley Cup winner, are also part of the management and board. It also has close ties to Breitling via Kenissi in the form of Jean-Paul Girardin, who oversaw the development of Breitling’s manufacturing capacities, moving there after it was sold to CVC Capital in 2017. Norquain’s dedication to quality, design, and value for money quickly made it a favourite amongst industry insiders.

Fortis are still around?

Yes. They had financial difficulties back in 2017/ 2018, and were taken over by Jupp Philipp, who was a big fan of the brand, but with a background in the food industry. It took him nearly eight months to assess the company and analyse the business before signing on the dotted line in September 2018. Since then they have devised a roadmap for Fortis, and with Kenissi on board, they hope to develop the brand into a contender for the likes of Breitling, Tudor and IWC.

The attraction of the Swiss watch industry may be that of the shiny new products being released every year, but behind every flowery PR prose, there are not just the watchmakers that assemble the watches, the artists who decorate them, but also the parts suppliers, without whom there would be very few watches produced.

The possibility of a third significant player in movement supply is also interesting because it means more competition, and competition is always good for an industry, and this could possibly lead to better pricing. There is a lot of uncertainty in the watch industry at the moment, and there are also concerns about possible job losses in the coming 12 to 18 months, a firm who will probably be taking on more employees is also a welcome thing.

Quick Look: Patek Philippe Ref 6007A-001 Calatrava "Manufacture Limited Edition"

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:41:00 +0000

2020 so far has been a funny year. Not so much ha-ha funny mind you. I won't bore you with the details though, assuming if you're reading this, you already know full well what's happened...

And here we have Patek, launching a watch from the previous year (yes that's right. They even tell us so on the case back) meaning it has already gone up in value, given it's a steel, limited edition, casual dress/sports watch with a blue dial.

Ref 6007A-001

The year has been so strange that even us, The Sydney Tarts, having lain dormant for the best part of errr... 5 years?? Felt it necessary to revitalise and re-energise, and resurrect ourselves and start posting again, as we are in a completely "unprecedented" times.

Enough of a tangent though. Let's get back to the watch. Patek is well known for saying that their clients do not actually own one and are merely temporary guardians until their offsprings can lay claim to the sound investment that is luxury watches and ideally sell it to fund further education or perhaps, more investments. And no doubt this watch will be an investment, as steel Calatravas aren't all that common, and this model is only limited to 1000 pieces.

New Manufacture 2019

A quick run down. The watch is 40mm. powered by calibre 324 (the PP equivalent to the JLC 899 or the ETA 2892-A2). It is automatic, so the shortish power reserve won't matter. But even then I do have doubts just how many of the 1000 pieces will actually be worn and how many will be safe queens, and become a part of an investment portfolio. It'll retail for the AUD equivalent of around about $42,000. that's considered a bargain by Patek standards. Trust me.

There are 3 hands, and a date at 3:00, complete with black numerals on white background. Hour markers and hands are lumed. Matte blue dial with the door to the Ninja Turtle's NYC abode as the central decoration. Thick bezel aids in the overall "balance" of the design, finished off with a blue strap and a pin buckle.

So, 1000 pieces worldwide. That can't be too difficult to come by, provided you have a spare $40k to spend post COVID-19, what with the pent-up urge to spend and such and such? Well, don't forget, this is Patek steel watch territory. Meaning it's not as easy as it sounds. Just because you have the dough doesn't mean you get to go...

Oh and yes. The watch celebrates a new Manufacture that they built in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva, costing 600 million CHF. 10 floors all up; 4 underground. Brings all the crafts under the one roof. (a la Jaeger-LeCoultre and Zenith...) A restaurant for 880 guests, parking for 700 cars, 4 VIP lounges.

The New Patek Manufacture

Baselworld 2015 Wrap Up Part 4 - Seiko Marine Master 1000

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Mon, 30 Mar 2015 23:58:00 +0000

Style is a very subjective exercise and the watch world is by no means immune to it. Especially if it involves any sort of alterations to a much-loved style of the past or, a borrowing of styling cues across brands, the online/offline watch community will be vocal in expressing their disdain and not be shy about it. One of the many watches from this year's Baselworld subjected to such heated debate is the Seiko MarineMaster 1000 limited edition. (And you thought I was going to talk about THAT pilot watch...)

Being extremely subjective, I like it. Even that weird part attaching the bracelet to the case. I'm sure it'll sit ok on the wrist. The only thing I'm struggling with (and no it's not the thickness) is the price. It's around USD6800. I think the latent brand/watch snob in me is resurfacing. I can appreciate Grand Seikos, but I cannot bring myself to buy one at their prices, even if their reliability will most likely surpass their Swiss/German equivalent. And this is not even a Grand! It's a humble regular Seiko. (Yes I get that the movement is out of a Grand Seiko, and it's the only high-beat movement fitted to a Seiko).

On paper, the specs are simply impressive. It's a high beat (36000 VPH) automatic movement caliber 8L55 (optimised and adapted for use in a diver's watch). Titanium case at a massive 48.2mm diametre, mated to a titanium bracelet, both of which has a hard coating applied, making it more scratch resistant. The case is monocoque, made of one piece of titanium with no case back. It's close to 20mm thick but that's kind of required to pass the 1000m water resistant test. The crystal is sapphire and has an anti-fog coating. On top of that it's anti-magetic to 16,000A/M. There is nothing in the equivalent Swiss world that even comes close to the specs for the price. But this is like comparing a Hyundai Genesis to a Merc E Class isn't it?

This is the ultimate sleeper though. From the outside very few people would know the pedigree of the watch. Even less would give it a second glance. This is even more sleeper than a Patek Calatrava. The sleeper of the sports watch world. Well, as much as sleeper as a 48mm/20mm watch can be, that is.

Limited Edition of 700 Pieces

Baselworld 2015 Wrap Up - Part 3 - Bell & Ross Vintage WW1 Edición Limitada

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Thu, 26 Mar 2015 02:32:00 +0000

I think after 10 years of flogging their square cockpit instrument inspired watch (yes 10 years. B&R said so. Even released a watch to commemorate this occasion), Bell & Ross is quite possible most known for it. And why not? It is a very distinctive case design, cashing in on the whole "big watch" trend and nowadays much copied. I have nothing against the square watch design. I do like it. But I much prefer their vintage WW1 watch case. A simple, round watch with wire lugs harks back to the days when wrist watches were made this way (soldering wire lugs onto pocket watches and attach a strap to it. I'm guessing here. I wasn't born back then...)

They released something quite stunning this year at Basel, and this is the watch - the Vintage WW1 Edicion Limitada. I truly hope they'll continue on with this series, make it general release and cover up the hole in the dial. The movement is a manual wind 5 day affair and from first glance I don't recognise it. (Lemme know if you do) and I love the sunburst effect of the Geneva stripe. It's much more interesting than regular straps and reminds me of the JLC Master 8 Days movement decoration. Dial is clean and elegant. Oh Gee, look at that! they copied Zenith's numerals!!! (Heavy sarcasm applied here) And whilst we're at it, the watch case too!! straight copy!!

This one is limited to 99 pieces and comes in a cigar case. I reckon I'll put my name down for a steel version, hopefully with a slate grey dial. and vintage lume. That would be sublime. at 42mm case diametre this would make for a great subtle dress watch with a hint of sporting flair. You know, like an Audi S6.

Baselworld 2015 Wrap Up - Part 2 - Trending Blue Watches

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Tue, 24 Mar 2015 00:47:00 +0000

Feelin' blue? Well my friend you're right on trend because out of the blue, this year blue is the new black according to the fashion forward set at this year's Baselworld. Blue watches is one of the dominating trends with many brands releasing a blue watch of some sort.

Here at tarts we have curated a quick selection of blue watches in a wide range of price points and varying degrees of complication, suitable for everyone from blue collar to white collar to no collar. That's right. You don't have to be blue blooded anymore to own a blue watch. Why with all these choices there's no reason to sing the blues no mo'. So why don't you take the blue pill and get yourself a blue watch this year?

In no particular order:

Faberge, the egg makers makes a watch

Edox Hydro-Sub

Chris Ward Trident Pro

Breitling Super Ocean

Oris Thelonium Monk Limited Edition

Omega Speedmaster X-33

Frederique Constant World Timer

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity

Blancpain Fifty Fathom Chronograph The Ocean Commitment

JeanRichard Terrascope Blue

Hublot Big Bang Unico Italia Independent

Sarpaneva Korona Northern Lights

Tudor Pelagos

Glashutte Original PanoReserve and PanoMaticLunar

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 007 Spectre

Konstantin Chaykin Diana

Omega Globemaster

Eterna Royal KonTiki

H Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar

Citizen Eco-Drive Divers

Baselworld 2015 Wrap up - Part 1 - Rolex Oyster Perpetual

noreply@blogger.com (The Sydney Tarts) — Mon, 23 Mar 2015 01:07:00 +0000

Given the multitudes of literal elbowing in trying to get the most blog/instagram/twitter coverage going on for #Baselworld2015 we here at tarts thought we'd sit this one out, sift through the masses of releases and cherry pick for you, our dear readers what we feel were the best of the show. For worst of show, we won't be dignifying any of those releases with even a mention. Nup. They don't deserve it. Having said that, to be honest, coverage on all the various platforms interwebbing media was truly disappointing. The show isn't just about Rolex, Patek and Omega, as the coverage would have led you to believe. There are people out there who don't give a rat's about who's copying who when it comes to certain flight related watch styling nor do they care if you release the same thing in 10 different colours.

There are some brands out there doing things out of the box, offering interesting and unexpected designs and watchmaking know-how. And these largely goes unnoticed. Sad, really. For example, the new Fortis Rolf Sachs. Quirky fun watch. Not much coverage. A funky Calvin Klein direct read. Again, not much interest. (probably cuz of the brand...) If you have a look at the list of exhibitors you'll realise just how many brands gets next to no coverage. (I suppose there's kinda lack of interst on many of these brands, but still...)

Anyhoo, rant out of the way let's get going with our selection of what we think are the "best of" show. These are in no particular order. Ok, in order of what comes to mind.

Disclaimer: this whole series of posts on #Baselworld2015 wrap up is heavily subjective. They are also all purely based on images only since none of the Tarts team are able to be in Switzerland in person (lack of time, finance and generally all round good planning). Tarts is not compensated in any way, shape or form by any brands for featuring these watches and of course, we hope that this will change soon. HINT. HINT.

Let me put my foot in my mouth and start off with a Rolex. Normally, I'm quite "meh" when it comes to Rolex watches. It's like an LV bag or a Mercedes. Everyone has one and yet everyone wants one. Yes I'm in that group. I want a Rolex, a LV messenger bag and I really like the Merc GLA45, amongst others. No, the pick of the Rolex from this year isn't the Yachtmaster with the "special" rubber strap nor the Day-date with the fancy new movement. No, the pick of the Rolex is the base model, the one they used to call the Air-King (long live the King). It's now just the Oyster Perpetual.

The Oyster Perpetual has always been a clean looking watch. The difference this year is that they've finally made one in my size- 39mm, in a gorgeous slate grey dial (for some unknown reason this colour tends to be used by many brands as a special limited edition colour, most often in combo with a white gold case). Dial is well balanced (no date) and overall proportion is spot on. So here's a simple, elegant watch, in steel with slate grey dial, on bracelet, with an in-house movement and unbeatable Rolex quality for CHF5,400. That's around $7k Aussie rubles. That is not bad at all! And Rolex will make a boatload of these as it's a bread and butter model, so I don't need to step on people to get one.

And the kicker? JUST 4 LINES OF TEXT ON THE WHOLE DIAL. (including the brand name, but excluding "swiss made").