The Terraristic World

About Tarantulas Home.... What about it?

2011-01-27T07:21:00.000-08:00

Cage & Habitat

The tarantula’s home
When setting up a home for your pet tarantula you must consider safety, security, heating and size. Remember that tarantulas are cannibalistic. You should never keep two spiders together. Tarantulas are notorious escape artists. You must make sure your tank is secure. The best cage for your pet is a fish tank or terrarium with a locking mesh screen top. A minimum tank size for housing your pet spider is five gallons. A ten gallon tank is ideal. It provides the tarantula with more space and you more options for decorating. There is no need to go any larger since tarantulas do not need a lot of space to be happy.

Heating and lighting

The tank will need to be kept in a sufficiently warm area of your house or by placing a smallheat pad on the bottom of the tank. The tank should maintain a temperature of between 70* to 80* F. Lighting is not necessary for tarantulas. They normal amount of light in a room is enough and they do not like bright light. If you want some light for your pet spider, a fixture with a red light will work. Be sure the light does not dry out the habitat of tarantulas that require a moist or humid environment.
Substrate and decorThere are a number of beddings you can use to line the bottom of your pet tarantula’s tank. Sterilized potting soil, Eco Earth and bed-a-beast can be used for most types of tarantulas and are available at pet stores. The bottom of the cage should have 1 to 3 inches of substrate. The habitat will require a hide area and a shallow water dish.Decorations are not necessary for the tarantula, but most pet owners like to have their tanks look more natural. There are many commercially available logs, plants, rocks, vines, and other decor. Just remember that all tarantulas are climbers. If you place decorations close to the top of the tank, make sure you are aware of your tarantula’s location. When you open the lid you don’t want your pet spider to accidentally get out.
Cleaning the habitatTarantulas are not messy pets. They excrete a quick-drying fluid that has virtually no smell or mess. You should clean your tarantula’s cage whenever it looks like it is needed, which shouldn’t be very often. It is usually a good idea to clean the enclosure every 4 to 6 months. Transport your pet tarantula to a secure holding container before beginning to clean the tank. Remove any cricket parts from the tank, wash the inside and outside of the tank, replace the substrate, and scrub out the water dish. The water dish will need to be cleaned regularly to prevent it from becoming moldy or fouled by an insect that drowns.

Avicularia metallica (Металическа розовопръста тарантула)

2011-01-27T03:08:00.001-08:00

Avicularia metallica (Металическа розовопръста тарантула)

Металическата розовопръста или белопръста тарантула е един от по-големите представители на семейство Avicularia. Доста са спокойни и са чудесни тарантули за начинаещи. Напълно порасналите паяци от този вид притежават красива металическо синя лъскавина на тялото. Въпреки че са спокойни, те са доста бързи.

Местообитание: Гористите области на Колумбия.

Тип: Дървесен

Температура: 27 to 30°C

Влага: 70 до 75%

Темперамент: Хрисими и спокойни са, което ги прави перфектни за начинаещи любители, но трябва да се внимава, защото са доста бързи и затова държането се препоръчва само когато е наистина необходимо (при почистването на терариума например). Използвайте края на малка четка за боядисване, за да го примамите в буркан, като по този начин ще избегнете риска за вас и за вашата тарантула.

Терариум: Малките паячета могат да живеят в кутия с дупки за проветрение в горната й част. Възрастните могат да живеят в 35-40 литров или по-голям терариум. Този вид изисква терариум с много места подходящи за направата на мрежа (например кора от дърво подпряна на една от стените на терариума. Височината е много по-важна от площта на дъното. Субстрата за дъното може да е торфен мъх, обикновена почва за цветя, дървени стърготини или вермикулит, което е най-препоръчителното, тъй като задържа влага и не предизвиква появата на плесени както почвата за цветя. Ако използвате вермикулит с Avicularia metallica ще трябва да поставите тънък слой дървени стърготини на повърхността му, тъй като той може да полепне по краката му. Субстрата трябва да е дълбок около 3-5 см.

Хранене: Малките паячета ядат малки щурчета и други дребни насекоми. Възрастните ядат щурци, скакалци, брашнени червеи, други насекоми с подходящ размер, малки гущерчета и новородени мишлета.

Отрова: Всички тарантули имат отрова. Въпреки, че тя е безвредна за хората, може да щипе няколко часа. Ако бъдете ухапан, за всеки случай потърсете медицинска помощ. Дръжте настрана всички други животни като кучета и котки например, защото ако за нас тя е безвредна, то за кучетата и котките може да е по-различно.

Защитни косъмчета: Този вид отделя защитни косъмчета.

Avicularia versicolor in Blulgarian (Антилски розовокрак птицеяд)

2011-01-27T02:45:00.001-08:00

Avicularia versicolor (Антилски розовокрак птицеяд)

Антилската розовокрака тарантула е един от най-красивите видове в света. Предполагам това се вижда на снимката. Когато се излюпват те са с ярко синя окраска и с течение на времето придобиват окраската характерна за възрастните индивиди. Покрита е с червено, зелено и дори лилаво. На снимката в ляво е показан паяк с окраска на възрастен екземпляр. Тези паяци трябва да бъдат отглеждани сами в отделен съд. Тази тарантула е хрисима и кротка, но плашлива която бърза да избяга ако е обезпокоена. Това не я изважда от списъка на тарантули за начинаещи, но има и по-подходящи видове за тези които сега започват с това хоби. Тези цветни тарантули плетат много яко мрежи в дървесна кора в природата и ще го правят и в плен ако им се осигурят парчета кора или корк. Слабата вентилация е смъртоносна за този вид, както за много други тропически дървесни видове.

Ако въздуха в терариума е запарен и влажен може да се получи прорасване на плесени които да станат причина за смърт на паяка. За финал ще спомена, че този вид е най-търсения измежду всички видове от хобистите.

Местообитание: Тропическите области на Мартиника, Гваделупе и може би заобикалящите Карибски острови.

Тип: Дървесен вид.

Хранене: Малките ядат плодови мухи, малки щурци и други малко насекоми. Възрастните се хранят с щурци, пеперуди, мухи, други големи насекоми и много рядко малки гущери и новородени мишлета.

Размер: 13 - 15 см.

Растеж: нормален до бърз растеж.

Температура: 23°С - 26°С

Влажност: 75 до 80%. Големите индивиди над 7 см. трябва да имат плитка, малка купичка за вода така, че е задължително да осигурите такава в терариума.

Темперамент: Хрисима но плашлива.

Терариум: 20 - 25 литров терариум е напълно достатъчен като за размерите са вземе предвид че това е дървесен паяк, т.е. трябва площа на височина да е по-голяма от площта на дъното на съда. За декорация може да се ползват дървесни кори или корк.

Декорация: Клончета, живи растения, увивни растения и други. Направете добри укрития и подходящи места за тарантулата да си направи мрежа. За покриване на дъното може да се използва мъх.

Субстрат за дъното: 5 - 7 см торфен мъх или парченца дърво.

Skunk??? As A Pet??? What do you need?

2011-01-25T05:42:00.000-08:00

Owning a Pet Skunk: The Big Decision?

The information presented here is by no means all the information there is on domesticated pet skunks. The aim of this composition is to give people considering a skunk for a pet a good foundation of knowledge on which to base their decision. Impulse buying, especially in the area

of skunks, is highly discouraged. Skunks have special needs, need dedicated commitment, and are not the pets for everyone. They take a tremendous amount of time, understanding, and patience. But

please don't let some of the negative ideas in this document scare you, for those who are willing to try, they can turn out to be the most wonderful pets you will ever come across. Usually, people who get hooked on these marvelous pets, embark on a pleasurable life-long addiction to them. Is owning a pet skunk for you? Read on to find out.

Laws:
Before obtaining a domesticated pet skunk, be sure to check out the laws governing them for your state. Pennsylvania is a legal state, provided you get a permit rider (receipt) from the breeder at the time of purchase. Several legitimate breeders reside within the Pennsylvania borders. Many other states are illegal, legal with a special permit, or have special laws regarding ownership. The Department of Natural Resources or Fish and Game Commission for your state should be able to give you an idea about what the laws are. If possible, a good idea is to get a copy of the laws to read for yourself and to talk to several officials at these governing locations. In the past many officials, sometimes from the same state, have been known to interpret the law differently, lending to confusion over what the actual law is. Some legal states have even instituted a new rule that lets the local townships make up the laws about pet skunk ownership. So it would be a good idea to check with your local government as well. Is owning a domesticated pet skunk legal in your area?

Obtaining:
Skunks are only born at one time of year, in the spring, mostly during the month of May. Most breeders will descent them at 4 - 6 weeks of age and release them to their owners at 6 - 8 weeks of age (June - July time frame). Many breeders will compile a waiting list of prospective owners starting a year in advance and some will require a deposit to hold one back for you. Skunks come in a variety of colors; black & white, brown & white, gray & white, cream & white, and albino. They also have many different pattern markings consisting of stripes, spots, and swirls. Some of these colors and markings are hard to come by, so don't be too upset with a breeder who cannot supply your preference.Are you ready to contact a skunk breeder in advance about a skunk kitten? Are you willing to wait (maybe until next year) until skunk kittens are "in season"?

Diet and Life Expectancy:
This is a very controversial topic when it comes to skunks. We feel it is best to read all the documents you can about this topic, and choose what works the best for you, your skunk, and your daily schedule. There are two main nutritional diets of discussion and no one seems to agree on which one is the best. Many folks use a "hybrid" diet to suit the needs of their skunk and their lifestyle. The one common factor in both plans is No Cat Food! It is too high in protein and fat for a skunks' rather sedentary lifestyle and will cause the skunk's liver to become weakened over time because they will not be able to metabolize the protein.

One approach can be found in Jane Bone’s Skunk Stuff brochure. This diet consists of a variety of vegetables mixed with a little commercial dry dog food, chicken or tunafish. This diet also suggests a piece of fruit; some cottage cheese; some yogurt; some vitamins and minerals; some high fiber dry breakfast cereal; and a vanilla wafer cookie for a treat.

The other main approach can be obtained through Mary Kaye Ashley, in her Comprehensive Guide to Raising a Pet Skunk. This booklet offers a more holistic approach and contains a spin off of the Pitcarin diet called Skunkie Delight. This diet suggests feeding your skunk 50 percent vegetables, 40 percent Skunkie Delight, and 10 percent other whole foods to meet their needs as omnivores. Skunkie Delight is made up of millet, raw ground turkey, eggs, vegetable oil, and a variety of vitamin and mineral powders.

With the proper diet and exercise, most skunks will live an average of eight to twelve years. We have seen both healthy and unhealthy skunks on both the aforementioned diets. Our guidance stands on the fact that this is your pet skunk, therefore it is ultimately your decision on what to feed them and you should be the one to make that decision. Are you willing to prepare nutritional meals for your skunk? Are you ready to provide an ample size area for them to exercise in daily?

Rabies and Vaccinations:
Because of the many misconceptions around skunks and rabies, most government officials think "all skunks that bite have rabies". A rabies vaccine and quarantine period have never been approved and validated on skunks. For this reason, if your pet skunk bites someone and the bite is reported, your skunk is likely to be seized, slaughtered, and it's brain tissue tested for rabies. Most government officials seem callous and ill effected by the fact that this animal is your beloved family pet. Research in this area is being pursued by skunk experts in hopes that pet skunks will not have to be sacrificed in the future. Will you oversee and carefully supervise who your skunk comes in contact with?

Vets and Medical Attention:
Skunks need to have regular yearly check-ups and be spayed or neutered by a knowledgeable vet. Finding a respectable vet in your area (who is willing to work with a domesticated pet skunk and has the knowledge to do so) might be a challenging task. The time to find a good vet, is before you own a pet skunk. When hunting for a good vet, be sure to let them know that your skunk will be coming from a reputable breeder with the proper paperwork and has not been abducted from the wild (a big NO NO). A good question to ask a prospective vet is: What would you do if my skunk bit someone on your staff? Do you know of a knowledgeable vet you can trust? Can you afford the vet expenses for check-ups and spaying or neutering?

Discipline and Playtime:
A skunk's teeth are very sharp and they have canine (eye) teeth that can make a nasty puncture wound. They need to be handled gently, given affection, and taught not to bite. Usually, biting will lessen as the skunk grows older and becomes accustomed to your household and routine. Skunks should be disciplined with patience. Lashing out in anger and roughness towards them will usually result in a mean, vicious, biting skunk. A stern voice or a loud clap work well. Giving "Time Outs" in an empty bathtub for unacceptable behavior worked well for us. Skunks can be taught to stand up on their hind feet for food. Patience, repetition on the part of the owner, and good treats are the biggest assets to teaching your skunk to do tricks. Skunks love to play with toys as well as you. Stomping and charging at you with their tail in the air or playing tug of war with a special toy are some common playtime activities. Do you have ample time to teach a skunk appropriate behavior and bond with them? Are you willing to be patient if the personal property in your household gets shredded, broken, or ruined?

Litter Training:
A skunks natural instinct is to use a corner for their bathroom. Placing a litter pan filled with unscented litter or shredded paper in the corner they select should help your skunk learn proper bathroom habits. Teaching your skunk when to use the litter pan can sometimes be a challenge. Start your skunk out in a small area, like a bathroom. When they are using the litter pan regularly, increase their area to explore slowly. This way it is harder for the skunk to forget where his bathroom spot is. Slowly increase the area until it is as large as you desire. If the skunk forgets where his bathroom is, make the area smaller again and reintroduce them to the litter pan. Are you willing to cope with litter box accidents? Are you willing to supervise your skunk's prowling area to allow him or her to investigate their surroundings safely?

Hygiene:
Bathing and nail clipping are important to the health and well being of your pet skunk. Most skunks, if introduced early and often to baths, adapt well. Some skunks love the water and learn to swim with ease. If a skunk has been descented properly, there will be very little, if any, odor surrounding them. Bathing on a bi-monthly basis is usually all that is needed. Some skunks groom themselves well and only need 1 or 2 baths a year. Nail clipping, on the other hand, should be done every couple of weeks to keep the nails at a respectable length. The trick to nail trimming is not to cut the nail back into the "quick" or nerve extending through the nail. A general rule of thumb is if the skunk's nail bleeds, they will try to bite or wiggle away from you. Skunks shed twice a year. They shed their soft downy layer of fur in the spring and their longer courser coat in the fall. Shedding is usually less than that of a cat or a dog and lasts a shorter period of time. Are you willing and able to keep your skunk clean and clip their nails regularly?

Worming and Fleas:
Worming is needed to protect your skunk from various parasites that might infest his body. Roundworms are the most common. Over the counter worm medication given every couple of months and a yearly stool sample check at the vet are recommended. Fleas are usually not a problem, but may become one if your skunk communes with another pet that is left outdoors often. Flea remedies can be used on skunks, but they are more sensitive than cats and dogs, and care needs to be taken to use one that won't harm your skunk. Are you willing and able to keep your skunk free of worms and fleas?

Allergies to Skunks:
Many people who are allergic to cats and dogs have found that they are not allergic to skunks. However, skunks do produce a dander and some people have had allergic reactions to this. The best way to tell if you think you might be allergic is to visit someone who already has a skunk for a pet. Usually the symptoms will appear quickly if you have an allergy to them. Do you have allergies? Are you allergic to skunk dander?

Cages and Skunk Proofing Your Home:
Cages and carriers are good training tools to teach discipline, but are not the solution as a home for your pet skunk. A skunk that is kept caged all the time, will most likely feel neglected and become mean and biting, lashing out for attention. Skunks need to have ample area within where your family dwells in order to become well adjusted pets. Skunks are very capable of opening almost any cabinet in your house. Some have even found a way to open the refrigerator. Skunks can also climb. They love to investigate and are generally not worried about safety when they explore. This is why it is important that we protect them from danger by putting child locks on cabinets and blocking off areas that are not safe. Are you willing to let them coexist with you in your home? Are you willing to secure cabinets and areas of danger in your household to protect your pet skunk from harm?

Noise and Children:
Skunks make a squealing noise and sometimes hiss, but spend most of their lives silent. As a general rule, if you have more than one skunk, you will hear the noises more often. Skunks generally interact well with calm, willing to listen and learn children. Grabby, aggressive, chasing children will generally not do well with skunks, unless taught to respect them. As a general rule, skunks do well with other well adapted animals. We have heard of them getting along well with cats, dogs, guinea pigs, and other skunks. Mutual respect for each other is something that must be present or taught for a working relationship between pets or with pets and children. Are you willing to oversee and sometimes officiate the interaction between your children and your skunk? Are you willing to introduce your pet skunk slowly and patiently to other animals in your household?

Personality:
Skunks are extremely intelligent as well as hard-headed, stubborn and curious. This can be a very powerful attitude combination when exercised together. They are also very physically strong for their size, and can get behind or in almost anything in your house they desire. Rooting in anything left lying around, such as pocketbooks, laundry baskets full of clothes, potted plants, and trash cans make a great game to them. Skunks can be very demanding as pets. When they want to eat, they will bug you until you oblige! The same follows for sleep, play, or snuggling. There is usually no compromise on their part as far as time or place is concerned. Most skunks enjoy being held and petted once you have caught them. Some will even become "lap skunks". Most skunks will make a game out of you trying to catch them. Do you have sufficient patience, spare time, and sense of humor to cope with a skunk's unique personality? Will others in your household be tolerant, adaptive, and loving towards a pet skunk?

Exotic Pets in Bulgarian- Екзотичните животни

2011-01-25T05:36:00.001-08:00

Обикновено изпитваме желание дв вземем за домашно животно котка,куче,рибки,папагал, но екзотичните животни винаги са привличали хората.
Благодарение на своята необичайна външност и навици, те ни поразяват и очароват.Отглеждането на необичаен домашен любимец винаги се е смятало за нещо повече от обикновена любов.

Част 1. В света на екзотичните животни

Един от най-популярните домашни любимци който можем да наречем необичаен е мадагаскарската хлебарка.Благодарение на грозния си вид и големите размери,тя предизвиква страх при жените и малките деца.Отглеждането на това животно освен развлечение може да допринесе и значителна полза,и то съвсем неочаквано. Ако в дома си имате обикновени хлебарки и не можете да се отървете от тях,достатъчно е да довете двойка мадагаскарски хлебарки.

Друго екзотично животно, което прекрасно се отглежда в домашни условия е чинчилата. Този забавен гризач с огромни очи няма да остави равнодушен и най- коравосърдечния човек.Чинчилите се разбират много добре с хората, могат и да се дресират.
Други гризачи,които се отглеждат са мишки,плъхове, порове, зайци.

Влечуги

Те са едни от най- древните същества,населяващи планетата много преди появата на човека.Ето едни от малкото видове, доживели до наши дни. Към влечугите се отнасят всички видове гущери, змии, крокодили, костенурки.
Отглеждането на такива животни в домашни условия съвсем не е толкова просто,а понякога и опасно занимание.

Към екзотичните животни се отнасят редки видове папагали, маймуни, прасета- джуджета, различни насекоми и паяци.

Част 2. Къде да ги намерим и как да не сгрешим в избора?

Екзотичните животни могат да станат отлични приятели с вас.
Правилния избор съвсем не е прост,контрабандата е много печеливш бизнес.
Така,ставайки стопанин на животно хванато направо в горите на Нова Гвинея рискувате не само да вземете болно животно,а най-страшното, екзотичните животни много често са източник на инфекциозни заболявания,не по-малко екзотични от тях.
Настойчиво препоръчваме да купувате екзотични животни от специални развъдници и зоомагазини.Само така можете да се предпазите от възможни инфекции и заболявания.Контрабадно внесено животно може да бъде евтино,но болно,което ще се окаже много неприятно за вас,и ще се наложи да дадете солидна сума за лечение.

Част 3. Отглеждане и грижи

Отглеждането на екзотични животни е сложно и отговорно занимание.

Трябва да разберете че тези животни до скоро за живеели в естествена среда ,където са се грижели за себе си и потомството си.За разлика от кучетата и котките те изискват специални грижи и отношение.
Човешкото жилище не винаги е подходяща среда за екзотичните животни,така както гризачите живеят в специално оборудвани клетки.

За влечугите и насекомите са необходими особени климатични условия,за това се отглеждат в специални терариуми в които се поддържа оптимална температура и влажност.

Животните не трябва да се прехранват или недохранват,използвайте само специализирани храни.Правилното хранене е много важно за екзотичните животни- то е сложен и специфичен процес.
Ако за гризачите са подходящи привичните за хората продукти като зеленчуци,зърнени храни и ядки, за храненето на змиите и паяците се използва специална храна. Змиите обикновено се хранят с живи плъхове и мишки, големите паяци- с насекоми.
Такава храна не може да се съхранява в кутии, за това запасите трябва постоянно да се попълват, всичко зависи от вида на животното.

Месоядните влечуги в домашни условия могат да бъдат сериозна опасност за малките деца или малките животни.

Не пренебрегвайте мерките за хигиена при общуване с всички видове животни.
Мийте ръцете си преди и след контакт с животните,а ако сте ухапани или одраскани,веднага промийте раната и я обработете с йод.Ако травмата е сериозна, веднага се обърнете към лекар.

Редовно почиствайте жилището на животното,сменяйте водата, дезинфекцирайте клетката.Само така можете да ги предпазите от заболявания и други неприятности.

Животните се нуждаят от редовни медицински прегледи.
Не забравяйте да посещавате ветеринаря особено ако имате някакви съмнения по повод здравето на животното.

Не се занимавайте със самолечение,организма на животното може да не издържи на такива експерименти.

Заключение
Хората често взимат решенията спонтанно,като не мислят за последиците.
Желанието да вземат домашно животно се поражда при много от нас.
Това е хубаво желание,ако човек разбира колко отговорно и сериозно е това.

Екзотичните животни се различават от другите домашни любимци.
Тяхното отглеждане изисква повече време и внимание,за да могат да живеят заедно с хората,трябва да им създадете нужните условия,които се различават от тези на кучетата и котките, не е достатъчно да им поставите само купа с храна и вода.
Кучетата и котките живеят отдавна с хората ,еволюцията и селекцията са изработили много инстинкти и качества,които опростяват живота на техните собственици. Ако някое куче или котка попаднат в гората,много е вероятно да не могат да се справят самостоятелно.Те отдавна зависят от хората и ги възприемат като стопани.

Екзотичните животни са абсолютно диви.

Инстинктите им позволяват да съществуват самостоятелно в привична за тях среда, хората са чужди същества с които никога не са се срещали в живота си.Много пъти сме чували за котки, които въпреки разстоянието са намирали стопаните си,или за кучета които с години очакват своите стопани,които са ги изоставили.
Това не можем да очакваме от екзотичните животни,хората са им безразлични.

Не трябва да очакваме преданост и любов от диви животни.
Тяхното предназначение е да направи живота ни разнообразен, да ни подари възможност да наблюдаваме природата във всички форми. Те са способни да ни подарят емоции и радост,да ни успокоят.

В заключение още веднъж ще напомним, че върху нас стои голяма отговорност за тези животни.
Ние трябва да мислим и за обратната страна на медала, всяко живо същество в нашия дом ще ни дари не само с радост, но изисква и много внимание и грижи.
Ако не сте уверени че можете да подарите щастлив и безгрижен живот на своите бъдещи любимци,по-добре не си взимайте,така ще бъде по-добре за всички.

Basic Info About Tarantulas in Bulgarian- Общи Сведения За Тарантулите

2011-01-25T05:35:00.000-08:00

Има нещо мистериозно в тарантулите. Те стряскат хората. Създания на нощта, появяват се, като че ли с магия и изчезват обратно в мрака. Имат дълги космати крака и изглеждат огромни и отвратителни. Но преди всичко – те са паяци. Поради това е естествено суеверните хора да им приписват какви ли не злокобни качества. А където отсъстват факти – митовете избуяват. В този смисъл полето на познанието за тарантулите e много плодотворно тук в България – не много хора са познали очарованието на тарантулите. Може би това е така, понеже типичния българин, виждайки голяма, космата, осмокрака гадина, би реагирал най – вероятно по следния начин: „О гадост, отвратително е!”.
Но ако се оставите на любопитството да ви надвие, погледнете на тарантулата от друг ъгъл и се научите да ги цените, бихте открили, че те всъщност са изключително невероятни – цикълът им на живот, начинът им на живот, характеристиките им и всичко друго. Да вземем на пример процеса наречен линеене, когато тарантулите са най – уязвими, поради простата причина, че те сменят цялата си кожа (екзоскелет), за да могат да пораснат, да регенерират загубени крайници. Защо казваме, че е най-уязвима тогава? Ами представете си се, сменяйки цялата си кожа, плюс тази на устните си, клепачите, дори на репродуктивните органи. Това е само един от интересните неща свързани с тарантулите. Разбира се неможе да сравнявате тарантулата с кучетата и да очаквате да играят с вас на площадката, но е изключително интересно и образователно, ако имате търпението да се грижите за тях и да ги наблюдавате.
Тарантулите са паяци принадлежащи семейство Theraphosidae (от гръцкото thera (диво животно, звяр) и phos (светлина)). Някои членове на семейството са познати още като птичи паяци, маймунски паяци, бабун паяци или дъждовни паяци. Характерно за тях е наличието на tarsi (крак) с два нокътя (по скоро кукички) и claw tufts, наречени scopulae. Семейство Theraphosidae включва над 800 вида тарантули, разделени в 12 под семейства (формално 13) и 113 рода.

Основни характеристики
Тарантулите са дългокраки, дълголетни паяци. Цялото им тяло е покрито с къси блестящи косъмчета наречени setae. Тарантулите обитават тропичните до умерените райони в Южна и Централна Америка, Мексико, югозападните Американски Щати, Азия, Южна Европа, Африка и Австралия. В Южна Африка понякога са познати като бабун паяци.

Въпреки техния често плашещ външен вид и репутация, нито една от истинските тарантули не е включена в списъка на смъртоносните паяци (паяци имащи силна отрова, опасна за хората). Някои хора твърдят, че съществуват смъртоносни видове тарантули някъде из Южна Америка. Подобни твърдения често са правени без да бъде посочен определен паяк, най-често се приписват на „банановата тарантула”. Най-вероятно става дума за Phoneutria nigriventer, който понякога се крие в чепките банани и е един от няколкото паяци наричани „бананови паяци”. Този паяк не е тарантула. Но е относително голям (около 2,5 см), донякъде космат, и е считан за агресивен. Както и да е, Сиднейския тунело-паяжен паяк (Atrax robustus ) е вероятно най – агресивния, силно отровен, обичащ да хапе многократно и ентусиазирано да трови. Той е вид от отровните тунело-паяжни тарантули, член на същия под разред като истинските тарантули но не и на семейство Theraphosidae.

Размер, цвят и вид

Косъмчетата

Освен косъмчетата покриващи тялото, някои тарантули имат плътно покритие от дразнещи косъмчета ( около 10 000 на квадратен милиметър ), наречени уртикарни косъмчета, които понякога използват за защита против враговете си. Този вид косъмчета присъстват само при някои видове от Новия Свят принадлежащи към под семействата Ischnocolinae, Aviculariinae, Grammostolinae и Theraphosinae и липсват при видовете от Стария Свят.

Тези косъмчета са бодливи, и са с цел да дразнят, но не съдържат отрова. Някои видове могат да „изритват” тези косъмчета във въздуха по посока на мишената.. Тарантулите използват тези косъмчета и по друго предназначение – маркират териториите си с тях, паяжините или гнездата си.
Към хищниците и други врагове косъмчетата могат да бъдат от просто предупреждение до смъртоносно оръжие. При хората предизвикват възпаление на очите, носа, кожата и най- опасното – дробовете и въздушните пътища , ако бъдат вдишани. Симптомите са различни за различни видове, хора, от изгарящ сърбеж до съвсем лек обрив. Което е ставало причина някой хора да се отказват от тарантулите си заради алергични реакции, причинени от тези косъмчета.

Хабитати и поведение
Тарантулите са нощни хищници, убиващи жертвите си, като инжектират отрова в тях през зъбите си. Гладната тарантула обикновено чака в засада, частично скрита на входа на скривалището си, преминаващата жертва. Тарантулата притежава чувствително косъмчета които и позволяват да засече големината и разположението на потенциалните си жертви по вибрациите предизвикани от движението им. Някои видове използват копринена нишка за да засекат движението ( когато жертвата премине през нея ). Както много други паяци, тарантулата не вижда много повече от просто светлина, мрак, движение, и използва чувството си за допир, за да възприема околния свят. Дори така, те са всичко друго, но не и немарливи и неточни, когато става дума да хванат жертвата си. Най-общо казано тарантулите избират жертвите си въз основа на това доколко опасна би могла да бъде тя, потенциалния и размер и т.н. Понякога тарантулите успяват да хванат малки птици, бозайници като мишки например, дори и малки рибки, но обичайната им диета се състои от насекоми като щурци, за земните видове, и пеперудки за дървесните.

Укрития
Тарантулите живеят в най – разнообразни укрития.
Заравящите се тарантули живеят в бърлоги под земята. Тези бърлоги са изкопани от самия паяк или са изоставени бърлоги от гризачи или други малки животни, а често си намират и естествени пукнатини. Някои тарантули правят домовете си под парчета скала, дърво или под паднала от дърветата кора, докато други правят своите домове от паяжина по дърветата, скали, стени на сгради или по растения като банан и ананаса.
Тарантулите са добре екипирани катерачи. Дори тежки земни тарантули като Grammostola rosea могат да се покатерят по вертикално стъкло, но катеренето прекалено нависоко е сериозна опасност за тях, причината, за което е, че при евентуално падане могат да наранят абдомена си (буквално да се спука). Дървесните видове имат по леки тела и са способни да се справят с едно евентуално падане.

Растеж, живот и размножаване
Също като другите паяци и тарантулите трябва периодично да сменят екзоскелета, за да растат. Процес, който се нарича линеене. Младите тарантули могат да линеят няколко пъти в годината, докато екземпляри достигнали максималния си размер ще сменят кожа веднъж на една или няколко години или по-скоро, ако трябва да регенерират загубен крак или уртикарни косъмчета.

Тарантулите могат да живеят дълги години – на повечето видове им трябват между 2 и 5 години само за да съзреят полово, а на някой може да им отнеме и 10 години. След достигане на полова зрялост на мъжките им остават не повече от 1-1,5 години живот и те незабавно тръгват на походи за да намерят женска, с която да се чифтосат. Изключително рядко е мъжка тарантула достигнала полова зрялост да се опита да линее отново.

Навиците на скитници на мъжките паяци, търсещи женски за чифтосване, ги правят лесни за откриване. Късно през лятото и рано през пролетта (Септември и Октомври в северното полукълбо) мъжките напускат скривалищата си и се скитат с надежда да открият скривалище на женска, с която да се чифтосат. Те биха пресичали пътищата и пътеките по време на тези странствания и точно тогава могат да бъдат наблюдавани.

Когато полово зрял мъжки открие бърлога на женска той ще я примами навънка сигнализирайки намеренията си за чифтосване, вибрирайки с тялото си и тропайки с педипалпите си, ако женската е склонна за чифтосване ще му отвърне по същия начин. След чифтосване мъжкият трябва да се отдалечи бързо иначе има възможност да бъде изяден. Женска тарантула , която не е готова за чифтосване също може да атакува и изяде мъжки който настоятелно се опитва да се чифтоса с нея. Тази реакция е по – малко обичайна за тарантулите отколкото при другите паяци. За някои видове тарантули се знае, че се чифтосват няколко пъти за период от няколко седмици.

Тъй като женските продължават да линеят дори след като достигнат полова зрялост те са способни да регенерират загубени крайници и така удължават живота си. За женски екземпляри е известно че са достигали до 30 годишна възраст, дори до 40 и че могат да оцелеят само с вода до две години и половина. Ако са били добре гледани женските нормално биха живели до 20-30 години, докато мъжките до 10-12 години, в зависимост от видовете разбира се.

Възпроизвеждане

Както и за другите паяци, начините за сближаване са доста по-различни от тези при бозайниците. Веднъж щом мъжкия паяк достигне полова зрялост той ще изплете паяжина върху някоя гладка повърхност и ще започне да търка абдомена си върху нея, освобождавайки семенна течност. След което ще вкара педипалпите си в семенната течност. Педипалпите „попиват” семенната течност и я поддържат жизнена докато си намери партньорка. Когато мъжки паяк засече присъствието на женска , двамата обменят сигнали за да определят дали и двамата са от един и същ вид. Тези сигнали могат също така да направят женската по податлива и готова за чифтосване, след което мъжкия приближава женската и вкарва педипалпите си в отвор в долната част на абдомена на женската. След този акт мъжкия се стреми по най-бързия начин да се отдалечи, преди женската да е възвърнала апетита си.
Женските са в състояние да снесат от 50 до 2000 яйца, в зависимост от вида, в копринен пашкул, след което го пазят около 6-7 седмици. Малките паячета остават в гнездото за известно време след излюпването си след което се разпръскват.

Тарантулите обичайно живеят в самота и са канибали, биха атакували и изяли други от техния вид. Съществуват обаче и изключения като Avicularia avicularia, която може да бъде гледана в комунален терариум, понеже членовете на този вид са по – толерантни един към друг. Ако терариумът е достатъчно голям, с оптимален на брой укрития, екземплярите са на горе долу един размер и винаги са добре нахранени канибализма може да бъде сведен почти до 0. Гледането на тарантулите в комунални терариуми не се препоръчва и може да се прилага само от опитни гледачи.

Не всички тарантули са големи. В зависимост от вида, размера на тялото им може да варира от 2,5 до 10 см, а с размера на краката – 8-30 см. Големината се мери от върха на задния крак, до върна напредния крак от същата страна. Най – големите екземпляри тарантули могат да тежат над 90 грама. Theraphosa blondi ,произлизаща от Венецуела и Бразилия, е считан за най – големия вид, обаче някой развъдчици и хобисти не мислят така. Theraphosa apophysis е описана 187 години след Theraphosa blondi, ето защо тя не е толкова добре позната. Размерът с краката и достига 33см според някой източници. Най – общо казано мъжките паяци от повечето видове са по – стройни и с по- дълги крака отколкото женските екземпляри.
Мнозинството тарантули са кафяви или черни, обаче някои видове имат по – разширени цветови шаблони, варирайки от кобалтово синьо (кобалтово синята тарантула, Haplopelma lividum), черно с бели ленти (Eupalaestrus campestratus, Acanthoscurria geniculata) до металикаво сини крака с оранжев абдомен (Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens). Природните им хабитати включват саваните, пасищата като пампасите, дъждовните гори, пустините, шубраците, планините и сенчестите гори. Главно тарантулите се делят основно на земни и дървесни видове. Много видове тарантули имат ясно изразен полов диморфизъм. Мъжките обикновено са по – малки
(особено абдомена) и могат да бъдат доста цветни. Например Pamphobeteus antinous, при който женската е тъмно кафява, а мъжките са блестящо пурпурни. Също така мъжките екземпляри имат по – кратък живот, поради което повечето тарантули гледани като домашни любимци са женски.

The Most Beautiful Spider in The World

2011-01-25T03:32:00.000-08:00

People often ask, who is the most beautiful spider in the world?

You are lucky, because I know the answer – it’s theJumping Spider! (a.k.a Salticidae) I have to admit, I’m being a bit subjective here, because there haven’t been any spider beauty contests yet.

This little spider disprove the stereotype about spiders being ugly and scary (anyone with arachnophobia here?).

Jumpers beauty secret is his 8 big eyes, and besides looking very cute, this little creature is also a very curious one.

I’m giving lots of bamboo leaves for macro photographers – without them, we couldn’t see these incredible macro photos, and now let’s jump to the photos.

(Bamboo leaf for teejaybee via: boredpanda.com)

Jumper can jump 20 to 60 or even 75 to 80 times the length of its body.

Habronattus coecatus – Adult male Jumping Spider Hiding in Leaves

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(Bamboo leaf for Opo Terser via: boredpanda.com)

It belongs to the largest family of spiders with about 13% of all species.

Female Jumping Spider

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(Bamboo leaf for Opo Terse r via: boredpanda.com)

Jumping spiders have a superb vision which is better than any other kind of spider. With his eight eyes a jumper can see in almost every direction at once and is often regarded as nature’s best stalkers – as good as lions and tigers.

Pelegrina pervaga – Adult Male Jumping Spider

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(Bamboo leaf for Opo Terser via: boredpanda.com)

Just before it jumps, it tethers a filament of silk to whatever it is standing on. Should it fall for one reason or another, it climbs back up the silk tether.

Asianellus (=Phlegra) festivus

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They are generally diurnal, active hunters.

Adult Female Jumping Spider – Phidippus audax

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Phidippus clarus – Female

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Phidippus otiosus

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Unidentified Jumper

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Adult Male Hentzia palmarum Jumping Spider

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Unidentified Jumping Spider

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In contrast to other arachnids, the jumping spider is regarded as inquisitive as it is seemingly interested in whatever approaches it.

Sitticus fasciger Jumping Spider

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Adult male Paraphidippus aurantius Jumping Spider

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Jumping spiders are known for their curiosity. If approached by a human hand, instead of scuttling away to safety as most spiders do, the jumping spider will usually leap and turn to face the hand. Further approach may result in the spider jumping backwards while still eyeing the hand. The tiny creature will even raise its forelimbs and hold its ground. It might even jump on the hand.

Adult Female Jumping Spider – Phidippus mystaceus

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Unidentified Jumper

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Corn Snake- Elaphe guttata

2011-01-25T02:46:00.000-08:00

Introduction

Corn snakes, also known as red rat snakes, are a large, powerful, and non-venomous constrictor in the genus Elaphe. [1] [2] The species in this genus, along with the genus Bogertophis and Senticolis, are known as rat snakes. All the species in these taxa are medium to very large size Colubrids that feed on rodents and other small prey. [3] The Colubrid family contains over 2,000 species worldwide, and is sometimes referred to as the "typical snake." [4] All snakes, including the corn snake, have been persecuted by man out of justifiable fear but also ignorance. The corn snake is a prime example of this latter case, as they are often killed because they resemble a copperhead (a very venomous species). But the more we learn about snakes the less needless fear we will have, and the more we can appreciate their beauty and usefulness. Corn snakes, other rat snakes, and even copperheads are beneficial predators of rodents, which can spread diseases and damage food crops. [5]

In fact corn snakes got their name both from the pattern on their belly, which looks like Indian corn, and from old southern farmers who stored their harvested corn in wooden buildings called cribs. Rats and mice were attracted to the cribs to feed on the corn, and corn snakes were attracted to the cribs to feed on the rodents, much to the delight and appreciation of the farmers. [6] Corn snakes, like reptiles and amphibians in general, have an amazing metabolism that is able to operate at low oxygen and blood pressure levels. This allows them to survive long periods in oxygen depleted atmospheres, which is why drowning a snake is not effective. And even stranger is that scientists have observed signs of consciousness from the head of a snake for about an hour after the head was cut off from the rest of the body. Clifford Warwick discusses it in his book "Reptiles: Misunderstood, Mistreated and Mass-Marketed" (1990; Nower Productions, UK). And this is why a decapitated venomous snake can still bite. It is also why decapitation is not only ineffective, but quite cruel for the snake. If a reptile or amphibian must be euthanized, the best way involves a complete and rapid destruction of the brain; otherwise they are very likely to suffer enormously for a long time before death. [7]

Domesticated hedgehog albino

2011-01-25T01:48:00.000-08:00

The most common species of domesticated hedgehog is the African Pygmy hedgehog, a hybrid of the White-bellied or Four-toed Hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris) and the Algerian Hedgehog (A. algirus). It is smaller than the European Hedgehog, and thus is sometimes called African Pygmy Hedgehog. Other species kept as pets are the Egyptian long-eared hedgehog (Hemiechinus auritus auritus) and the Indian long-eared hedgehog (Hemiechinus collaris).

Hedgehog domestication became popular in the early 1980s. They still have much of their wild behavior, including a fear of predators — especially humans, but buying from a responsible breeder and proper handling will do a lot to ensure a friendly relationship. Since domestication began, several new colours of hedgehogs have been created or become common, including albino and pinto hedgehogs.

Domesticated species prefer a warm climate (above 22 °C , 72 °F) and do not naturally hibernate. Attempts to hibernate due to lowered body temperatures can be fatal, but are easily reversed if caught quickly (within a few days). In the wild they eat a diet of mainly insects, but pet owners generally prefer a diet composed primarily of high protein low fat high quality cat food, with regular treats such as mealworms, fruits, vegetables, and cooked unseasoned meats.

A fully grown domesticated hedgeho

The Romans domesticated a relative of the Algerian hedgehog in the 4th Century BC. They were raised for meat and quills. The quills were used in the training of other animals, such as keeping a calf from suckling after it had been weaned. The quills were also used for card paper and dissection pins long after the Romans actively bred and raised hedgehogs.[edit]Roman domesticated hedgehog

[edit]Legality

Because a hedgehog is commonly kept in a cage or similar enclosure, it is allowed in some residences where cats and dogs are not allowed.

It is illegal to own a hedgehog as a pet in some US states and some Canadian municipalities, and a license is needed to legally breed them. These restrictions may have been enacted due to the ability of some hedgehog species to carry foot and mouth disease, a highly contagious disease of cloven-hooved animals. No such restrictions exist in most European countries.

The following is a list of locations where it is illegal to own a hedgehog. By African Pygmy hedgehog, this list is referring to the domesticated hedgehog commonly bred and sold as pets, not a specific breed of hedgehog from Africa.

Food

In the wild, a hedgehog is opportunistic and will eat many things, but the majority of the diet comprises insects.

As insectivores, hedgehogs need a diet that is high in protein and low in fat. They also require chitin, which comes from the exoskeleton of insects; fiber in the diet may substitute for the chitin component. There are prepared foods specifically for pet hedgehogs and insectivores, including foods made from insect components. Also available are alimentary powders to sprinkle on other food which provide chitin and other nutrients. Hedgehog caretakers should read labels on packaged food to ensure a basis of protein, rather than a basis of carbohydrate.

A dry cat-food mix can serve as a daily base food. Most caretakers mix several high-quality, low-fat cat foods to ensure nutrition and aim for a protein content of higher than 30% and a fat content of less than 12%. Approximately 10 to 12% fiber is also suggested. Normal cat food is high in fat and iron so indoor or light formulations are generally more appropriate. “High-quality foods” means foods in which the primary ingredient is meat, not a meat byproduct. Most breeders suggest foods derived primarily from chicken. There are hedgehog foods available at many pet shops, but as of the time of writing most do not seem to be good quality formulations and will not provide the quality and level of nutritional contents necessary for a healthy hedgehog. Always check the ingredients list for good quality ingredients and nutritional information for protein and fat content.

Pet hedgehogs may eat such table foods as cooked, lean chicken, turkey, beef or pork (in moderation due to fat content). Hedgehogs will often eat small amounts of vegetable and can be given small amounts of fruit as treats. Baby food is a common way to feed treats. Hedgehogs are lactose-intolerant and will have stomach problems after consuming most dairy products, though occasional plain lowfat yogurt (yogurt contains bacteria that naturally process lactose) or cottage cheese seem to be well tolerated. Sugar intake should be restricted to fruits, avoid any treat with added sugar.

Fresh, canned, or freeze-dried mealworms, waxworms, and crickets are appropriate as limited treats though in moderation as many feed insects are high in fat. Many pet stores carry these feedinsects. Hedgehog caretakers should avoid bait-shop or wild caught insects, which may be contaminated with insecticides.

Hedgehogs can easily become obese. If a pet hedgehog appears to be gaining too much weight, it is important that the hedgehog’s caretaker cut back on high fat foods and increase exercise. Hedgehogs vary in size so there is no "goal weight" for a hedgehog, but if they can no longer roll completely into a ball it is a pretty clear sign of obesity. Many people believe that there is a relation between a high-fat diet and fatty-liver disease in hedgehogs.

Due to their mouth shape hedgehogs should not be fed any nuts. Nut butters are acceptable, but are very high in fat so they should probably be avoided. Hedgehogs should never be fed avocados, onions, grapes or raisins, chocolate, any raw meat or egg yolks, or any canned or processed food.

[edit]Allergies

Many people who claim to be allergic to cats and dogs are actually allergic to the dander produced by them. Hedgehogs produce very little dander.^[5] It is possible to be allergic to items surrounding the hedgehog, such as the hedgehog's food or bedding, but it is rare that a person would be allergic to the hedgehog itself.

After handling hedgehogs, some have claimed that pink dots on their hands is an allergic reaction. This is more likely caused by small pricks from the hedgehog's quills. If a hedgehog is not clean, the pricks can become infected. The infection is from contaminants on the hedgehog or on the surface of the hands, not from an allergic reaction to the hedgehog.

Hedgehogs are commonly allergic to wood oils. Wood bedding should be avoided, specifically cedar. The oil found in cedar can cause severe upper respiratory problems. Aspen however is widely accepted as a safe substitute.

[edit]Sickness

Hedgehogs are prone to many diseases including cancer, which spreads quickly in hedgehogs, and wobbly hedgehog syndrome. Some symptoms of wobbly hedgehog syndrome resemble those ofmultiple sclerosis (MS) in humans, therefore the condition the animal experiences can be compared with what MS patients experience.^[6]^[7] A possible cause of WHS is a genetic flaw allowing a virus to attack the hedgehog's nervous system.[reference?]

Hedgehogs usually react to stress with temporary digestive disorders that include vomiting and green feces.^[8]

Haplopelma Lividum- Cobalt Blue Tarantula

2011-01-25T01:40:00.000-08:00

Cobalt Blue Tarantula (Haplopelma lividum)

A native of the both Burma and Thailand, this spider was first described by Smith.

It lives in a labyrinth of extensive burrows in the tropical forests of those countries.

This species is most notable for its beautiful iridescent (electric) blue color of the legs. The carapace is usually a light brown with the abdomen a dark grey/brown, often with chevron-like stripes.

One keeper described this spider thus:

"One of the most aggressive, most beautiful, and high strung tarantula in the spider world. Females are a blue color and males are brown. Only recommended for advanced keepers".

This spider is usually described as "one of the most bad-tempered/aggressive spiders in the hobby, it is well known for its lightning speed."

My own specimen of this tarantula (Lightning) was very fast, not exactly aggressive, but I have more that a little respect for her. Not for the faint hearted as it can be a bit of an escapologist.

PLEASE NOTE: This spider should never be handled and certainly is not recommended for a newcomer to tarantulas. This one is for the experienced keeper only.

The requirements in captivity are:

As for keeping them as pets, many people keep these in large 12x12x12 (inches) tanks.

Like the other tropical species they require high humidity levels (above 80%).

As these spiders are keen burrowers, you must make sure a suitable material is used for the substrate. Substrate for the cage should be of peat/vermiculite mix, should be at least 3 inches deep.

An open water dish is a must, as is regular spraying of the tank with a plant mister. On no account should the humidity level fall below 70 percent!

Food: All standard invertebrates

Type: Terrestrial (Tropical)

Aggressiveness: Considered very bad tempered.

Venom Effect: Not yet known.

Geographic Range: Burma, Thailand

Humidity: 85%

Substrate: 3 inches (at least).

Shelter: Burrower, so makes it's own home!

Water: Open water dish.

Longevity: Unknown.

Poecilotheria rufilata jumping

2011-01-25T00:17:00.001-08:00

Spiders

2011-01-25T00:10:00.001-08:00

Spiders

Spiders are predatory invertebrate animals that have two body segments, eight legs, no chewing mouth parts and no wings. They are classified in the order Araneae, one of several orders within the larger class of arachnids, a group which also contains scorpions, whip scorpions, mites, ticks, and opiliones (harvestmen). The study of spiders is known as arachnology.
All spiders produce silk, a thin, strong protein strand extruded by the spider from spinnerets most commonly found on the end of the abdomen. Many species use it to trap insects in webs, although there are also many species that hunt freely. Silk can be used to aid in climbing, form smooth walls for burrows, build egg sacs, wrap prey, and temporarily hold sperm, among other applications. Read more..

Wolf spider 2 Bolivia

Wolf spider Bolivia

Záklopkáč - Laos

Beetles

2011-01-25T00:09:00.003-08:00

Beetles are one of the main groups of insects. Their order, Coleoptera (meaning "sheathed wing"), has more species in it than any other order in the entire animal kingdom. Forty percent of all described insect species are beetles (about 350,000 species), and new species are regularly discovered. Estimates put the total number of species - described and undescribed - at between 5 and 8 million. This is why, when J. B. S. Haldane, a British geneticist, was asked what his studies of nature revealed about God, he replied, "An inordinate fondness for beetles". Read more..

Augosoma centaurus

Chellorhina p. confluens + Ch.savagei

Chelorrhina savagei

Dynastes hercules ecuatorianus

Smaragdethes africana africana

Xylotrupes gideon kaszabi

Centipedes

2011-01-25T00:09:00.001-08:00

Centipedes (Class Chilopoda) are fast-moving venomous, predatory, terrestrial arthropods that have long bodies and many jointed legs. Chiefly nocturnal, centipedes are found primarily in tropical climates but are also widely distributed in temperate zones.
Some species are highly venomous and often produce very painful bites but (despite Ian Fleming's famous use of dramatic licence) only one human death has ever been recorded - from a bite on the head of a young child by a large centipede on a Pacific island - though severe reactions have also occasionally been recorded in adults. Read more..

Scolopendra -

Scolopendra spec

Scolopendra spec Malaysia

Scolopendra spec Tanzania

Scolopendra spec Tanzania2

Scolopendra spec URUGUAY

Scolopendra spinosissima

Scolopendra subspinipes mutilans

Millipedae

2011-01-25T00:07:00.003-08:00

Millipede

Millipedes (Class Diplopoda, previously also known as Chilognatha) are very elongated arthropods with cylindrical bodies that have two pairs of legs for each one of their 20 to 100 or more body segments. These animals are herbivorous, slow and nonvenomous; unlike the somewhat similar and closely related centipedes (Class Chilopoda), which can be easily distinguished by their single pair of legs for each body segment. Most millipedes eat decaying leaves and other dead plant matter, moisturizing the food with secretions and then scraping it in with the jaws. Read more..

Archispirostreptus gigas

Millipede - Madagascar

Millipede - Vietnam

Millipede Bolivia

Millipede Ephibolus pulchripes Tanzania

Millipede Malajsie

Millipede spec China - red

Millipede spec China - žlutý

Millipede Ghana

Millipede Tanzania

Millipede Thailand

Spirostreptidae spec. - Cameroon

Telodeinopus aoutii

Cockroaches

2011-01-25T00:07:00.001-08:00

Cockroach

Cockroaches are insects of the order Blattodea (the name Blattaria is also seen). The names of the order are derived from Greek blatta, meaning "cockroach". There are roughly 3,500 species in 6 families. Cockroaches exist worldwide, with the exception of the polar regions and in elevations above 2,000 m (6,500 ft). The earliest cockroach-like fossils are from the Carboniferous period between 354-295 million years ago; however, these fossils differ from modern cockroaches in having long ovipositors and are apparently the ancestors of termites and mantids as well as modern cockroaches. In fact, current evidence strongly suggests that termites have evolved directly from true cockroaches. The first fossils of "modern" cockroaches with short ovipositors appear in the early Cretaceous. Mantodea and Blattodea are included by some entomologists together in a single order, Dictyoptera. Read more..

Blaberus spec Bolivia

Elliptorhina chopardi

Gromphadorhina portentosa - black

Gromphadorhina portentosa - red

Nauphoeta cinerea

Pachlora? spec Bolivia

Princisia vanwaerebecki

Cockroach

Cockroach2

Solifugae

2011-01-25T00:06:00.001-08:00

Solifugae

The order Solifugae is a group of arachnids, containing around 900 species. The name derives from Latin, and means those that flee from the sun. The order is also known by the namesSolpugida, Solpugides, Solpugae, Galeodea and Mycetophorae. Their common names includecamel spider, wind scorpion, and sun spider.
Solifugae are not true spiders, which are from a different order, Araneae. Like scorpions and harvestmen, they belong to a distinct arachnid order.
Solifugae are carnivorous or omnivorous, with most species feeding on termites, darkling beetles, and other small arthropods; however, solifugae have been videotaped consuming larger prey such as lizards. Prey is located with the pedipalps and killed and cut into pieces by the chelicerae. The prey is then liquefied and the liquid ingested through the pharynx.
Reproduction can involve direct or indirect sperm transfer; when indirect, the male emits a spermatophore on the ground and then inserts it with his chelicerae in the female's genital pore.Read more..

Galeodes spec arabicus

Galeodes spec Egypt

Galeodes spec granti

Galeodes spec vulpinus

Whip Scorpions

2011-01-25T00:05:00.001-08:00

Uropygid and Amblypygi - whip scorpions

A uropygid, commonly known as a whip scorpion, is an invertebrate animal belonging to the former order "Uropygi" in the class Arachnida, in the subphylum Chelicerata of the phylum Arthropoda. They are also known as the vinegarone or vinegaroon (in Spanish, vinagrillo) because when agitated they can spray a vinegar-like mist.
The name of the order should be properly Thelyphonida (a typified name), because the circumscriptional name Uropygi Thorell 1882 originally includes the "Tartarides" (now Schizomida) and should be used instead for the name of a broader group (which is also a well-recognized clade) including the Thelyphonida + Schizomida.
Amblypygi is an order of invertebrate animals belonging to the the class Arachnida, in the subphylum Chelicerata of the phylum Arthropoda.
Amblypygids are also known as tailless whip scorpions (see also whip scorpion). The name "amblypygid" means "blunt rump", a reference to a lack of the telson ("tail") carried by related species. Read more..

Hypoctonus rangunensis

Typopeltis crucifer

Uropyga spec Čina

Scorpion Species Photos

2011-01-25T00:02:00.000-08:00

Scorpion

Scorpions are an invertebrate animal with eight legs belonging to the order Scorpiones in the class Arachnida.
The scorpion body is divided into 2 main segments: the cephalothorax and the abdomen. The cephalothorax consists of the prosoma, and the abdomen of the mesosoma and the metasoma. All species of scorpion possess venom. In general scorpion venom is described as neurotoxic in nature. It consists of a variety of small proteins as well as sodium and potassium cations, which serve to interfere with neurotransmission in the victim. Scorpions use their venom to kill or paralyze their prey so that it can be eaten; in general it is fast acting, allowing for effective prey capture. Scorpions generally reproduce sexually and all species have male and female individuals. Reproduction is accomplished by the transfer of a spermatophore from the male to the female; scorpions have evolved a complex courtship and mating ritual to effect this transfer. Unlike the majority of Arachnida, scorpions are viviparous. The young are born one by one, and the brood is carried about on its mother's back until the young have under gone at least one moult. Read more..

Androctonus amoreuxi

Androctonus australis

Androctonus mauritanicus

Bothriurus coriaceus

Brachytosternus spec.

Buthacus leptochelys

Centruroides bicolor

Ceraboctonus keyseringi

Euscorpius spec. Croatia

Heterometrus longimanus

Heterometrus madraspatensis

Heterometrus mysorensis

Heterometrus spec - Laos

Heterometrus spec ??

Heterometrus spinifer

Heterometrus swammerdami

Hottentotta hottentotta

Hottentotta trilineatus

Iomachus politus - Kenya

Leiurus quinquestriatus

Liocheles australasiae

Lychas mucronatus

Mesobuthus martensii

Opistophthalmus boehmi

Pandinus cavimanus

Pandinus imperator

Parabuthus liosoma

Scorpio maurus palmatus

Tarantula Species Photos

2011-01-24T23:59:00.000-08:00

Tarantula

Tarantulas are spiders belonging to the family Theraphosidae. They are characterized by having tarsi (feet) with two claws and claw tufts, called scopulae. When people who knew about the tarantulas emigrated to the Americas and discovered fearsomely large and hairy spiders in the New World, they bestowed the name "tarantula" on them. Those spiders belong to the Suborder Mygalomorphae, the Family Theraphosidae (Greek for thera "wild animal, beast" +phos "light") and the Family Dipluridae. They can be quite large. Tarantulas can be kept as house pets. Common species are Chilean rose hair tarantula and Mexican red-knee tarantula. A terrarium with an inch or two of damp vermiculite or a mixture of soil and sphagnum moss (but not with cedar shavings as they are toxic to many spiders) on bottom provides an ideal habitat. (Burrowing tarantulas will require a much deeper layer.) Tarantulas can be fed a variety of living animals (insects, small mice, small fish in the water bowl, and reptiles are on their menu). Read more..

Acanthognathus francki

Acanthogonatus pissii

Acanthoscurria antillensis

Acanthoscurria atrox

Acanthoscurria brocklehursti

Acanthoscurria chacoana

Acanthoscurria ferina

Acanthoscurria geniculata

Acanthoscurria insubtilis

Acanthoscurria juruenicola

Acanthoscurria musculosa

Acanthoscurria natalensis

Acanthoscurria sternalis

Acanthoscurria suina

Aphonopelma albiceps?

Aphonopelma bicoloratum

Aphonopelma caniceps

Aphonopelma chalcodes

Aphonopelma clarki

Aphonopelma crinirufum

Aphonopelma crinitum

Aphonopelma hentzi

Aphonopelma moderatum

Aphonopelma pallidum

Aphonopelma seemanni

Aphonopelma seemanni - Guatemala

Aphonopelma seemanni Costa Rica

Aphonopelma smithi

Aphonopelma spec

Aphonopelma stoicum

Avicularia aurantiaca

Avicularia avicularia

Avicularia azuraklaasi

Avicularia bicegoi

Avicularia braunshaseni

Avicularia sp. - Cuzka

Avicularia spec Amazonas Purple

Avicularia spec Brazil 1

Avicularia spec. Peru?

Avicularia velutina

Avicularia versicolor

Bonnetina rudloffi

Brachypelma albopilosum

Brachypelma angustum

Brachypelma annitha

Brachypelma auratum

Brachypelma baumgarteni

Brachypelma boehmei

Brachypelma emilia

Brachypelma epicureanum

Brachypelma klaasi

Brachypelma ruhnaui

Brachypelma sabulosum

Brachypelma schroederi

Brachypelma smithi

Brachypelma vagans

Ceratogyrus bechuanicus

Ceratogyrus darlingi

Ceratogyrus marshalli

Ceratogyrus sanderi

Chilobrachys andersoni

Chilobrachys bicolor

Chilobrachys dyscolus

Chilobrachys fimbriatus

Chilobrachys guangxienensis

Chilobrachys huahini

Chilobrachys spec. Penang

Chilobrachys? spec India

Chilocosmia arndsti

Chromatopelma cyanopubescens

Citharacanthus longipes niger

Citharischius crawshayi

Coremiocnemis spec -Malaysia

Coremiocnemis spec BLUE

Creasicrus lamanai

Cyclosternum schmardae

Cyclosternum spec Ecuador

Cyriocosmus "leetzi"

Cyriocosmus chicoi

Cyriocosmus elegans

Cyriocosmus perezmilesi

Cyriopagopus paganus

Cyriopagopus spec blue 1 Singapur

Cyriopagopus spec blue 2 Malaysia

Davus fasciatus

El Coco

Ephebopus cyanognatus

Eucratoscelus pachypus

Eupalaestrus campestratus

Eupalaestrus weinjenberghi

Grammostola actaeon

Grammostola alticeps

Grammostola aureostriata

Grammostola rosea - red

Grammostola rosea - Orange

Grammostola spec Concepcion

Grammostola spec Formosa

Grammostola spec Uruguay

Grammostola spec.

Grammostola vachoni

Grammostola? spec. Argentina

Haplopelma albostriatum

Haplopelma Bach Ma

Haplopelma lividum

Haplopelma lividum - "tmavá"

Haplopelma schmidti - dark form

Haplopelma spec - Malaysia

Haplopelma spec Cambodia

Haplopelma spec Thajsko

Heteroscodra maculata

Heterothele villosella

Holothele incei

Holothele sp. "Norte de Santander"

Holothele spec Venezuela

Homoeomma spec blue Peru

Hysterocrates gigas

Hysterocrates hercules

Hysterocrates laticeps - Camerun

Iridopelma spec. Brasil

Lampropelma spec nigerrimum

Lasiodora difficilis

Lasiodora klugii

Lasiodora parahybana

Lasiodorides polycuspulatus

Lasiodorides striatus

Megaphobema mesomelas

Megaphobema peterklaasi

Megaphobema robusta

Megaphobema velvetosoma

Metriopelma ledezmae

Metriopelma spec Venezuela

Monocentropus balfouri

Nhandu carapoensis

Nhandu chromatus

Nhandu coloratovillosus

Nhandu vulpinus

Ornithoctonus aureotibialis

Ornithoctonus spec "Malthai"

Orphnaecus spec Philippines - Negros

Pachypelma oculatum

Pamphobeteus antinous

Pamphobeteus fortis

Pamphobeteus insignis

Pamphobeteus melanocephalus ?

Pamphobeteus nigricolor

Pamphobeteus ornatus

Pamphobeteus platyomma

Pamphobeteus sp. J. Ecuador

Pamphobeteus spec Colombia

Pamphobeteus ultramarinus

Paraphysa parvula

Paraphysa pucherimakllasi

Paraphysa scrofa

Paraphysa spec Chile-1

Phlogiellus spec Philippines - Negros

Phormictopus antillensis

Phormictopus cancerides ?

Phormictopus cancerides cancerides

Phormictopus platus

Plesiopelma longisternale

Poecilotheria fasciata

Poecilotheria formosa

Poecilotheria hanumavilasumica

Poecilotheria metallica

Poecilotheria miranda

Poecilotheria ornata

Poecilotheria pederseni

Poecilotheria regalis

Poecilotheria rufilata

Poecilotheria striata

Poecilotheria subfusca

Psalmopoeus cambridgei

Psalmopoeus irminia

Psalmopoeus pulcher

Psalmopoeus reduncus

Pseudhapalopus spinulopalpus

Pterinochilus chordatus

Pterinochilus lugardi

Pterinochilus murinus

Pterinochilus murinus " usambara "

Selenobrachys philippinus

Selenocosmia dichromata

Selenocosmia lanipes

Selenocosmia peerboomi

Selenocosmia? spec Jawa

Selenopelma kovariki

Sericopelma melanotarsum

Sericopelma spec "Guapiles" - Costa Rica

Sericopelma spec "Los Brazos" - Costa Rica

Sericopelma spec "Sabanilla" - Costa Rica

Tarantula "Tai Po Kau" - China

Tarantula spec India-1

Tarantula z Cam.Highlands-Tanah Rata

Sphaerobothria hoffmanni

Stichoplastoris spec. Costa Rica

Stromatopelma calceatum

Tapinauchenius elenae

Tapinauchenius gigas

Tapinauchenius latipes

Tapinauchenius plumipes

Theraphosa apophysis

Theraphosa blondii

Theraphosidae Costa Rica-2

Thrixopelma pruriens

Xenesthis immanis

Xenesthis intermedius

Xenesthis spec " bílý "

Xenesthis spec BLUE

Theraphosa blondi

2011-01-24T23:42:00.001-08:00

Theraphosa blondi was given the name the Goliath Bird Eating Tarantula when explorers witnessed a specimen feeding on a hummingbird in South America. The local natives of the rain forests occasionally eat these spiders as a delicacy. This new world terrestrial tarantula is considered as the largest tarantula in the world because of its remarkable 25-30cm leg span. It currently holds the place in the book of Guinness World Records for the largest spider and is powerful enough to feed on frogs, toads, lizards, mice and snakes.

[edit]The goliath bird eating tarantula

Theraphosa blondi

The Goliath Bird-eating spider is large and very stocky spider with a broad carapace, thick legs, and a large abdomen. It is a terrestrial species and has evolved to this large, heavy body type living in the humid burrows of the tropical forests of South America. They are a hairy, light-brown coloured spider with a leg span that can extend up to about 25 cm (10 inches) but can be up to 30.5 cm (12 inches).

Though the male and female are very similar, a mature male will be more slender and long-legged, as with other species of tarantula. Theymature at about 3 to 4 years and females can live for up to 25 years while males live just past reaching maturity.

[edit]Housing goliath bird eating tarantulas

Adult Goliath's can be kept in a converted aquarium with approximately 2-3 square feet of floor space. You should add at least 20 cm (8 inches) of substrate (peat moss or cypress mulch are recommended) and allow this terrestrial species to dig a burrow. A large shelter can be offered in the form of a cork bark cave or a half-buried clay pot.

Theraphosa blondi enclosure

Spiderlings will generally be semi-arboreal until they are strong and large enough to begin burrowing into the substrate. They will climb, so a piece of cork bark would make a nice web anchor. They can be kept in small containers such as pill tubs and waxworm tubs and slightly larger species can be kept in livefood tubs. Use moistened peatmoss or similar substrate to ensure the humidity levels are correct.

[edit]Temperature

The Goliath Bird Eating Tarantula requires a temperature range of 24-28°C (75-82°F). At night a temperature drop of up to 6°C (10°F) may be useful to best recreate the natural daily cycles that a spider would encounter in the wild.

The use of heat mats or under tank heating (UTH) will increase substrate temperatures, whereas lamps will increase air temperatures. You can use both these apparatus along with thermostats to control the temperature within the vivarium. The warmer you keep your tarantula, the higher its metabolic rate will be, the higher the humidity will be and the faster the substrate will dry out. Keeping a tarantula at a lower temperature is not necessarily a bad thing.

[edit]Humidity

T. blondi is a rainforest species and they require high humidity levels of above 80%. It is important to keep the humidity high or this tarantula will not live very long. A mix of peatmoss and water, combined with under tank heating and a large shallow water bowl should help to provide these high humidity levels. A hygrometer can be used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure and additional humidity can be provided by misting the tank regularly with a misting bottle. Reducing ventilation may seem an easy way to increase the humidity but this can also lead to the air in thevivarium becoming stagnant which will without a doubt lead to the death of any pet tarantula.

[edit]Feeding

This specimen is powerful enough to feed on frogs, toads, lizards, mice, snakes and even birds, although in captivity these tarantulas should diet on mainly small insects such as crickets, locust and beetle larvae.

Similarly to other tarantulas, the bird eating tarantula will eat insects, reptiles and small rodents up to their own size. Suitable insects include crickets, moths, beetle larvae (meal worms andsuperworms), houseflies and cockroaches. Although they may take on rodents and reptiles in the wild it is not recommended you feed them in captivity, for complications may arise such as a fatal bite by the food item itself.

Theraphosa blondi

When feeding livefoods, although it may be fun, try not to over challenge your Bird Eater by giving it food items that are too large. Stick with something about half the size of the tarantula and remove uneaten food items so they do not cause harm or stress.

Spiders usually eat massive amounts post-moult until they are full, this is called power feeding. They will refuse food pre-moult or when ready to lay anegg sac. It usually takes about 1 week to 1 month for a Theraphosa blondi to accept food after a moult, because of the skin and fang hardening process. You can’t really over feed a tarantula, but this doesn't mean you should overdo it by giving it 50 crickets after a moult; the tarantula will probably end up killing them all and leaving dead ones uneaten. If this is the case then they should be removed to prevent bacteria and mould growth. The other factor is that a plump abdomen is more prone to rupture if this species falls from a height.

Theraphosa blondi are sometimes troublesome to feed as they will spend a long time down in burrows and it’s just not possible to know if a missing food item has been eaten or is rotting in the burrow. To encourage feeding try to drop the food items near to the tarantula and so that it lands on the web at the entrance to the burrow. Hopefully you will see the Bird Eating Tarantula jump out and grab it.

[edit]Goliath bird eating tarantula health

[edit]Moulting Problems

The Goliath Bird Eater is notorious for its moulting problems. A significant number of T. blondi will die as juveniles through getting stuck in a moult or simply damaging themselves while moulting. This is one reason why the humidity should be maintained at a high level, as humidity softens the moulted exoskeleton allowing it to be removed.

[edit]Breeding Theraphosa blondi

Theraphosa blondi are particularly difficult to breed, and even after a successful courtship it is likely that the female will eat the egg sac. Several couplings are usualy required for a successful mating. The egg sac size is huge and can be upto 3cm in diameter, containing some 50-150 eggs. Nymphs are typically dull coloured and nothing more than eggs with legs, but from the first moult the huge size of this species can begin to be appreciated.

[edit]Preparing to breed Theraphosa blondi

Adult female Goliath Bird Eating Tarantula

If you are sure that you have an adult male and female Theraphosa blondi you have the two main ingredients to making up to 120 spiderlings of this beautifulspecies. An adult female will usually moult every 14-18 months, and so mating should be done before the final 6 months of her cycle to ensure successful courtship. Upon maturing males will lose bulk in their abdomen and legs become long and spindly, this, in addition to the development of emboli attached to the thickened last digit of the pedipalp, looking somewhat like boxing gloves are an indication that he is ready to produce a sperm web and go on to mate. These "boxing gloves", or emboli, are the bulbs where he will store his sperm after creating a sperm web. This species lacks apophoses (mating hooks) on the first leg pair.

Before he is ready to mate the male will need to produce a sperm web, normally made within a couple of weeks of his maturing moult so keep an eye out if you are expecting this to happen. He will produce a hammock shaped web in a corner of his enclosure, usually above the ground rather than inside his burrow. He will then deposit his sperm in the web by a wriggling motion underneath it. To collect the sperm he then walks over the web hammock and if you look closely at his bulbs, you will see his embolus (a small pointed hook) going into the web and taking the sperm from the web. When he is finished with the sperm web, he will usually destroy it, and the sperm is safely stored in his boxing gloves until he finds a female.

[edit]Introducing the male and female tarantulas

Goliath Tarantulas mating

The male should always be introduced into the female's enclosure, never the other way round; he should be introduced at the opposite end to the female's position orburrow if she is hiding. This technique allows the male and female to sense each other’s presence and approach each other with caution, preventing any unwanted fights.

He will now begin to act bizarrely, twitching and dipping his abdomen. Drumming is a common mating communication technique used by tarantulas, he will hit thesubstrate with his front legs and pedipalps, as he approaches the female, and she may reciprocate with some drumming of her own. They are both analysing each other’s response and deciding if it’s safe to continue.

When their legs first touch, he will keep tapping and rubbing her legs until she goes into a threat-like posture. He will use his first and second pairs of legs to try to lift her up and expose her underside. He will now insert his embolus into her epigastric furrow and deposit his sperm. This process may take a long time, usually a couple of hours will be enough for mating to occur. It is important to keep an eye on them at all times, as you may be required to separate them if a fight breaks out. Do not leave them together for extended periods of time, especially if they do not seem interested with each other, they will irritate each other and the male will probably get eaten. Attempt several introductions aiming to see the insertion of his embolus into her epigastric furrow on at least two occasions, this way you can be sure she takes his sperm to fertilise her eggs.

[edit]Egg sac production

File:Theraphosa blondi Egg sac.jpg

Egg sac of a Goliath Tarantula

A mated female will begin to eat like she has just moulted. She will need all the energy she can get for egg sac production, and this means feeding her all the food she will accept. A plumping abdomen is a good sign that she is ready to lay an egg sac and this can be expected around the 2 month mark after a successfulmating.

The signs that she is ready to lay an egg sac are the signs similar to an forthcoming moult, i.e. excessive webbing and refusing food. This is the point you should consider taking a step back and letting nature take its course. Disturbing the female may have devastating results on all the hard work reaching this point, a stressed tarantula will destroy and then eat what remains of her egg sac, and Goliath Birdeaters are renowned for doing just that. T. blondi are a species that will carry the egg sac around, rotating it and massaging it regularly to allow them to breathe and not sweat. As long as the female is carrying the egg sac, she should not be disturbed at all, any disturbance could result in the egg sac being eaten or destroyed. If a female drops the egg sac you may wish to recover it and rear it yourself. For more information on hand rearing egg sacs refer to the Tarantula Breeding article, which explains how to create a hammock and an artificial rearing chamber.

[edit]Looking after the spiderlings

Nymph Goliath Birdeater Tarantulas

After 1-2 months of painstaking watching and waiting the eggs should have grown into eggs with legs, and then later into nymphs. Nymphs will moult once, into second instar nymphs and finally for a third time into first instar spiderlings. You should take the egg sac from the mother when you suspect that nymphs have hatched. To do this try to isolate the female from the sac using a cup, and gently remove the egg sac.

File:Theraphosa blondi Spiderlings.jpg

Spiderling Theraphosa blondi

Cannibalism is common in tarantulas but rare between nymphs, so separation is not really necessary until the nymphs have completed the moult into spiderlings. Spiderlings of Theraphosa blondi may tolerate each other’s company for a further 1-2 instars, however there will inevitably be some cannibalism. Separate the spiderlings as soon as possible into appropriate containers such as small spice storage jars, pill jars or waxworm tubs.

[edit]After care for the female

It is possible for the female to lay a second egg sac so she must be fed well and left to rest after her ordeal. If a second egg sac is not produced she will probablymoult and, in which case lose what remains of the male’s sperm. She can now regain strength and prepare for another mating, if you are lucky enough to find an adult male

How to choose a snake?

2011-01-24T16:06:00.000-08:00

Selecting & Caring for Your Snake

Family: BoidaeAlbino Ball PythonPython regius
There are approximately 2000 distinct species of snakes and they are found on all the continents except Antartica. You can see why there are many docile snakes readily available as pets!
     Venomous snakes can be found anywhere that non-venomous snakes are also found, though there are more venomous snakes in Southeast Asia than anywhere else. Rattlesnakes are found only in the western hemispere. All snakes that live in the sea are venomous.

Pet appeal - Why snakes make good pets!     Many snakes make good pets because they are quite docile, easy to hold, and easy to care for. Snakes are very clean, virtually odorless, quiet, and other than the large boas and pythons, they don't eat much so they are inexpensive to feed. There are a wide variety of non-venomous pet snakes to choose from.
How to Choose Your Snake:     When deciding which snake or snakes are for you, keep the following basic considerations in mind:

How much do you want to spend?
How much space do you have for it?
What type of disposition do you want in your pet?
How hardy is it and how easy is it to feed?
What color, shape and size do you want and is that snake readily available?

Many snakes are protected so check with authorities in your area on laws governing your choice of snake.
Handling Your Snake:     To hold a snake, approach the cage slowly as this is the snakes home and it may try to defend it. If it is a tame snake, slowly reach in and grasp the snake firmly behind its head. Support it's body with your other hand as you pick it up. If it is not tame, reach in and grasp it behind the head quickly, or use a snake stick.
     Don't handle a snake after handling its food, it can smell the food on your hands and may mistake your hand for its supper. Also, don't handle a snake for two days after you've fed it as it needs time to digest its meal. Handling it too soon may make it regurgitate its food.
Always wash your hands before and after handling your snake!Snake Characteristics:     Snakes are reptiles with a lung or two, but no gills. They have no moveable eyelids and no external ear openings. Snakes have a retractile forked tongue which they use to pick up odors from the air and to taste. They are limbless, have scales, and will molt or shed their skin between two to five times per year (young snakes can molt 8 to 12 times per year).      Snakes are made up of four parts; a head, a neck, a body and a tail. Their bodies range in length from 7 1/2 inches, such as the worm-like Texas blind snake, up to 32 feet as in the reticulated python of Asia. The anaconda snake of South America is the largest snake in circumference, measuring up to three feet (one meter) around.      They can live a long time, ranging from about three years up to 25 or 30 years, depending upon the type of snake and its environment.

Snake Movements:     Though they have no have no legs, all snakes are able to swim. Many snakes can climb and some can burrow. They move in several ways; some move with a rectilinear movement, others have a serpentine movement, and still others move with a sidewindy motion.      There is an Asian snake that can glide through the air by flattening it's body and using it like a parachute. Some water snakes flattened their tail and use it to propel themselves through the water. No snake can move backward!
Housing:     Keep the decor simple. Housing size should have the diagonal of the cage at least as long as the snake. There needs to be fresh water for the snake to drink and occasionally bathe in, absorbent material on the floor, and a hiding place. Provide a warm broad spectrum light 10 to 12 hours per day. Most snakes will also need a substrate heating device, but also a cool shade area to move to when they are too warm.      For more detailed information see theBasic Reptile and Amphibian Care: Housing.
Diet - Feeding Your Snake:     All snakes are carnivores, designed to eat whole food. They are never vegetarians! Their diets range from rodents, fish, worms, frogs, and amphibians to lizards, insects, and often times other snakes.      You should sprinkle a vitamin supplement of calcium and vitamin D on their food. Specific foods are indicated with each snake listed.
Availability:     Beginner snakes are generally available and inexpensive. You can buy snakes at a pet store or from a breeder and you can collect snakes where allowed.      Wild caught snakes are seasonal due to their breeding times and can be difficult to adapt to captivity. Captive bred snakes though more expensive, are generally easier to get. They are often healthier than wild caught snakes, they adapt more easily to cage conditions, and they are relatively parasite free.

Rattle Snake

2011-01-24T15:40:00.001-08:00

Rattlesnakes are a group of venomous snakes, genera Crotalus and Sistrurus. They belong to the subfamily of venomous snakes known as Crotalinae (pit vipers).

Overview

There are approximately thirty species of rattlesnake, with numerous subspecies. They receive their name for the rattle located at the end of their tails. The rattle is used as a warning device when threatened. The scientific name Crotalus derives from the Greek, κρόταλον, meaning "castanet". The nameSistrurus is the Latinized form of the Greek word for "tail rattler" (Σείστρουρος, Seistrouros) and shares its root with the ancient Egyptian musical instrument, the sistrum, a type of rattle. Most rattlesnakes mate in the spring. All species give live birth, rather than laying eggs. The young are self-sufficient from birth. Since they do not need their mother after birth, the mother does not remain with her young. However, at least one captive study has demonstrated that females and their neonates show some level of affinity for each other's company and will cross barriers to reunite if separated.^{[citation needed]}

Contrary to popular myth, rattlesnakes are not deaf. In fact, the structure of their inner ears is very much like that of other reptiles. They do, however, lack external ears. Sound (whether from air or ground vibration) is transmitted to the snake's inner ear via vibrations in other body structures.^[1]

[edit]Range

Rattlesnakes are native to the Americas, with the large majority of species in the American Southwest and Mexico. The state of Arizona in particular has more species than any other state. Four species may be found east of the Mississippi river, and two in South America.

[edit]Prey

Rattlesnakes consume mice, rats, small birds and other small animals^[2]. They subdue their prey quickly with a venomous bite as opposed to constricting. The venom will immediately stun or kill typical prey. Rattlesnake venom can kill in 20 seconds^{[citation needed]}, but a rattlesnake will follow prey that does not quickly succumb to the venom and attempts to escape^{[citation needed]}. Rattlers are known to strike at distances up to two-thirds their body length.^{[citation needed]}

[edit]Reproduction

Although many kinds of snakes and other reptiles are oviparous (lay eggs), rattlesnakes are ovoviviparous – the female retains the eggs in her body and they hatch as they are laid or soon afterwards; or viviparous (give birth to live young). Baby snakes are ready to go as soon as they are hatched or born.

[edit]Rattle

The rattle of a rattlesnake

Drawing of the rattle

Rattlesnake rattle

The rattle is composed of a series of nested, hollow beads which are actually modified scales from the tail tip. Each time the snake sheds its skin, a new rattle segment is added. They may shed their skins several times a year depending on food supply and growth rates. Newborn rattlesnakes (pre-button) do not have functional rattles; it is not until after they have shed their skin for the first time that they gain an additional bead, which beats against the first bead, known as the button, to create the rattling sound. Adult snakes may lose their rattles on occasion, but more appear at each molting. If the rattle absorbs enough water in wet weather, it will not make noise.

[edit]Safety and identification

Young rattlesnake warming itself on the pavement - Del Valle Regional Park,Livermore, CA

Juvenile Southern Pacific Rattlesnake inCalifornia

Different species of rattlesnake vary significantly in size, territory, markings, and temperament. If the rattlesnake is not cornered or threatened, it will usually attempt to flee from encounters with humans. Bites often occur when humans startle the snake or provoke it. Those bitten while provoking rattlesnakes have usually underestimated the range (roughly two-thirds of its total length) and speed with which a coiled snake can strike (faster than the human eye can follow). Heavy boots and long pants reinforced with leather or canvas are recommended for hikers in areas known to harbor rattlesnakes.

Guides are available through booksellers, libraries, and local conservation and wildlife management agencies that aid hikers and campers in identifying rattlesnakes. The advice given is to avoid contact with rattlesnakes by remaining observant and not approaching the animals. Hikers are advised to be particularly careful when negotiating fallen logs or boulders and when near rocky outcroppings and ledges where rattlesnakes may be hiding or sunning themselves. However, snakes will occasionally sun themselves in the middle of a trail, so such areas are not the only places where they are encountered. When encountering a rattlesnake on a trail, hikers are advised to keep their distance and allow the snake room to retreat.

[edit]Bites

[edit]Toxicity

Most species of rattlesnakes have hemotoxic venom, destroying tissue, degenerating organs and causing coagulopathy (disrupted blood clotting). Some degree of permanent scarring is very likely in the event of a venomous bite, even with prompt, effective treatment, and a severe envenomation, combined with delayed or ineffective treatment, can lead to the loss of a limb or death. Untreated rattlesnake bites, especially from larger species, can be fatal. However,antivenom, when applied in time, reduces the death rate to less than 4%. It is estimated that between 7,000 and 8,000 people are bitten by venomous snakes in the United States each year, and about five of those die.^[4] About 72% of those bitten by rattlesnakes are male.^[5]

Some rattlesnakes, especially the tropical species, have neurotoxic venom. A bite from these snakes can interfere with or shut down parts of the nervous system. In the U.S. the Mojave Rattlesnake(Crotalus scutulatus) in Arizona and parts of California has a neurotoxic venom component known as Mojave Type A toxin. The current antivenom, (FDA-approved in October, 2000) known as CroFab, contains antibodies to Mojave A and B toxins as well as the toxins of most other U.S. pit vipers. Mojave A toxin has been identified present in the venoms of other species of rattlesnakes on occasion. Neurotoxins cause neurological symptoms, paralysis, and could result in death due to respiratory paralysis.

The Common Kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula), a constrictor, is famous for being largely immune to the venom of rattlesnakes and other vipers,^[6] and therefore rattlesnakes form part of this snake's natural diet in the wild.

Timber Rattlesnake (Crotalus horridus)

[edit]First aid

When a bite occurs, the amount of venom injected cannot be gauged easily. Symptoms and swelling may occur within minutes and potentially become life-threatening rapidly, but in some cases hours may pass before serious effects appear.

Experienced health workers typically gauge envenomation in stages ranging from 0, when there is no evident venom, to 5, when there is a life-threatening amount of venom present. The stages reflect the amount of bruising and swelling around the fang marks and the speed with which that bruising and swelling progresses. In more severe envenomation cases (stage 4 or 5) there may also be proximal symptoms, such as lip-tingling, dizziness, bleeding, vomiting, or shock. Difficulty breathing, paralysis, drooling, and massive haemorrhaging are also common symptoms.

Quick medical attention is critical, and treatment typically requires antivenin/antivenom to block the tissue destruction, nerve effects, and blood-clotting disorders common with rattlesnake venom. Most medical experts recommend keeping the area of the bite below the level of the heart. It is important to keep a snake bite victim calm in order to avoid elevating their heart rate and accelerating the circulation of venom within the body. Untrained individuals should not attempt to make incisions at or around bite sites, or to use tourniquets, as either treatment may be more destructive than the envenomation itself.

Any bite from a rattlesnake should be regarded as a life-threatening medical emergency that requires immediate hospital treatment from trained professionals.

[edit]Human consumption

Rattlesnakes are a popular food in some southeastern and southwestern American cuisines and are sometimes sold in specialty meat shops.^[7] The flavor has been characterized by one vendor as "delicate" and "resembling chicken";^[8] and by journalist Alistair Cooke as "just like chicken, only tougher."^[9] Others have compared the flavor to a wide range of other meats, including veal, frog, tortoise, quail, fish, rabbit, and even canned tuna.^[10]

[edit]Captivity

There are fairly obvious risks with private ownership of rattlesnakes. A bite can cause death or permanent disability. Even a nonfatal bite can lead to very high costs for emergency medical care.^[11]Some jurisdictions outlaw the possession of venomous snakes. Where it is legal, some form of license or insurance policy may be required

CHAMELEON DESCRIPTION

2011-01-24T13:11:00.001-08:00

Almost half of the world’s chameleon species live on the island of Madagascar. This chameleon community is not only the world’s largest, it is also the world’s most unique; with 59 different species existing nowhere outside of Madagascar.

Beyond their uniqueness to the island, chameleons are unique creatures in their own right. Known for their ability to change color, they can be seen wearing a variety of colors, including brown, green, blue, yellow, red, black or white. Communication is an important reason behind these color changes. With color, chameleons can communicate with others, expressing attitudes such as their willingness to mate. Contrary to popular belief, chameleons cannot display limitless colors and do not change colors in a camouflage response to their surroundings. Instead, their skin changes in response to temperature, light, and mood.

A chameleon’s colorful beauty is truly skin deep. Under the transparent outer skin are two cell layers that contain red and yellow pigments, or chromatophores. Below the chromatophores are cell layers that reflect blue and white light. Even deeper down is a layer of brown melanin (which gives human skin its various shades). Levels of external light and heat, and internal chemical reactions cause these cells to expand or contract. A calm chameleon, for example, may exhibit green, because the somewhat contracted yellow cells allow blue-reflected light to pass through. An angry chameleon may exhibit yellow, because the yellow cells have fully expanded, thus blocking off all blue-reflected light from below.

Other lizards, like the green anole, can also change color. But this green-to-brown color change is much less dramatic than the vivid, distinct color and pattern changes of chameleons.

Chameleons have many other features that distinguish them from their lizard cousins. They are the only lizards with zygodactyle feet, or pincers. These grasping feet are ideal for tree climbing. Chameleons also have an extremely extensile tongue. The tongue is used to snap up insects and out-of-reach food, and can be up to twice the length of a chameleon’s body. Also distinctive are the independently moveable eyes, which allow chameleons the ability to survey the world with nearly 360-degree vision.

Chameleons belong to their own subfamily, Chamaeleoninae, which is divided into two tribes: Brookesiini (dwarf chameleons) and Chamaeleonini (typical chameleons). Currently it is believed that 134 chameleon species exist, 33 Brookesiini species and 100 Chamaeleonini species. Eight new species of dwarf chameleons have been recently discovered since 1990.

The fossil record provides very little evidence to date the evolution of chameleons, although they are likely to be an ancient group. Fossils have only been found in Africa and Europe. The biogeographic history of the group is unclear. The modern restricted distribution of the group in Africa, Southern Europe (southern Spain and Crete), Madagascar, Seychelles, Comoros, and Asia (India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan) suggests that the evolutionary radiation of chameleons may have been associated with the final breakup of Gondwana (an ancient continent once located in the southern hemisphere), during the separation of Africa, Madagascar, and Greater India, during the late Jurassic and Cretaceous period.

Some of chameleons in Madagascar are very rare and poorly known, such as Chamaeleo belalandaensis, found in the southwest. This chameleon’s natural habitat is degraded gallery forest, which has now been almost completely cleared. The Chamaeleo belalandaensis is an example of a species for which studies are urgently needed, so that conservation efforts can be improved. The species has already been collected for the pet trade, and the impact on the population is not known. Very localized distribution combined with apparently tiny surviving populations suggest that this species is vulnerable to extinction.

Interesting about spiders

2011-01-24T13:09:00.001-08:00

There are about 30,000 species of spiders alive today. A few hundred of these spiders are called mygalomorphs. They are hairy, large, and are active hunters. You may know these creatures as tarantulas. You can find tarantuals on all continents except Antarctica. There are 30 different kinds of tarantulas in North America. These tarantulas can be found in the southwestern United States, and in Mexico and Central America. There are two Northern Australian species that are known to have dangerous toxic bites, but most other species don’t. The biggest tarantula is called the “bird eating” spider of South America. Some of these tarantulas have a ten-inch leg span!
Tarantulas have eight legs, two body segments called the cephalothorax and the abdomen, and silk-spinning glands and large fangs with venom. They also have eight
eyes, but have surprisingly poor eyesight. They have some power of smell, because during the matting season males will follow a female’s trail for miles. Know one knows
for sure if they can hear. Their most important sensory organs are their furry bristles. These furry bristles can detect vibrations from great distances. They can also be used to defend themselves. If a tarantula feels threatened in any way it can kick the hairs off into a prediators face.

Tarantula’s are nocturnal ground-hunters. They eat insects, small frogs, lizards, baby mice and birds, and other tarantulas. That’s why its a good idea if you plan to have more that one for a pet, to keep them in seperate cages. In the United States their main prediator is the pepsis wasp. A pepsis wasp lives in the desert and will hunt down a live tarantula, then paralyze it with a sting. It will then lay its eggs on the body of the tarantula so its offspring will have a food supply ready to eat.Captive females can reach 20 years in age. You can identify a male by the hook like protrodences on its front knees. They use these to grasp females during mating. The
male usually dies soon afterwards. All tarantulas will shed their exoskeletons periodically. This shreded skin keeps its shape so well, that sometimes it is mistaken for
another spider.