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Homemade Caraway Rye Crackers – Recipe

Michael Natkin — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 15:05:10 +0000

Homemade Caraway Rye Crackers

I’ve been obsessed with the flavor of rye lately. It had been on my mind and I ended up improvising a loaf of rye bread with a salt crust that came out amazing and I’m kicking myself because I didn’t write anything down, so now I can neither reproduce it nor share it with you, at least until I have another try at it. Anyhow, I think rye has an amazing flavor that deserves to be more widely used. I’ve got in mind to try rye crepes, and maybe a rye crumble for an apple crisp. Those are experiments for another day, but for today let me show you how to make simple and flavorful rye crackers.

Now oddly, I’ve never made crackers before. I remember a friend saying they had been making their own, and another friend saying, basically that there are perfectly fine crackers at the supermarket and they can’t imagine why any right thinking person would do it themselves. Naturally I took that as a challenge! And I think there are good reasons to make them yourself, at least occasionally. They taste fresher and better than most anything you can buy. And compared to the price of the best grocery store crackers, you certainly save a lot of money.

I based my ratios for these crackers on Lucy’s lovely looking semolina crackers. When I went to look at her about page and book, I realized her publisher is Harvard Common Press too. What a small world!

It took me 3 batches to get these coming out the way I saw them in my mind’s eye (tasted them with my mind’s tongue? that doesn’t sound quite right). The keys are (1) get them really, really thin (2) brush with a generous amount of olive oil and sprinkle on a generous amount of salt, (3) bake them until quite deeply brown. These details make the difference between a brutish, somewhat underflavored cracker and one that has a bright snap and a pop of rye, caraway and salt. I ate the whole batch in a day.

Homemade Caraway Rye Crackers
Yields about 36 big crackers

1 cup (128 grams) rye flour
1 cup (128 grams) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons (150 grams) warm water
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (22 grams) + more for brushing
2 tablespoons caraway seeds (11 grams)
1 teaspoon kosher salt (5 grams)
Maldon salt for sprinkling

Combine rye flour, all-purpose flour, water, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, caraway seeds and kosher salt in a stand mixer outfitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium low-speed, scraping down occasionally, until a dough forms. Switch to the dough hook and knead on medium-low for about 8 minutes. (You can also mix and knead this dough by hand.)
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 F, using convection if available.
Divide the dough into 3 parts and wrap 2 of them back up in plastic. Place the first piece of dough between the smooth side of two silpats. You could also use parchment paper cut to the size of your baking sheet. Roll out until very thin. It should cover about 80% of the surface area of the silpat. Remove the top silpat and transfer the bottom one to a sheet pan. Brush generously with additional olive oil and sprinkle on Maldon sea salt to taste, breaking the crystals up between your fingers as you sprinkle.
Bake until deep golden brown, about 8-10 minutes. Cool on a rack and then break up into random-sized crackers.

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Red Lentil and Kabocha Squash Soup with Harissa Oil – Sneak Peak Recipe From The Cookbook

Michael Natkin — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:02:08 +0000

Red Lentil and Kabocha Squash Soup with Harissa Oil

I’m going to start slipping you guys the occasional sneak peak at a recipe from the upcoming cookbook. This one is a two-fer: a warm and hearty soup, and a quick way to make spicy harissa oil with which to spike it. Stay tuned! In a few weeks, I’ll also be able to share some of the videos we shot for the extended e-book. Sign up for my email list and I’ll send you each new recipe as it comes out.

This is a great soup to serve when there are kids at the table, because it is quite mild if you leave the harissa oil off their portions. With the garnish, the flavors come alive, and you’ll want to mop up every bit with a good artisanal bread or toasted pita. Red lentils are nice for soups and purees because they basically dissolve when cooked, leaving a silky smooth texture. Don’t try to make this recipe with green or black lentils! If you don’t have kabocha squash, you can make this with a cooking pumpkin (such as a sugar pie pumpkin) or butternut or acorn squash. You won’t need a whole squash, so it is also a good way to use leftovers from an earlier meal. If using previously cooked squash, simply heat it through in the first step.

Harissa is the classic spice paste of North Africa, used in stews, as a rub, and as a condiment at the table. Oil infused with harissa is terrific for grilling vegetables, and I like it drizzled on soups. You can also use a small amount of this oil to spice up a vinaigrette for dressing salads or dipping bread. If you happen to have harissa paste, you can make harissa oil by simply pureeing the paste with olive oil and straining. If not, you can make a quick approximation using this recipe. It will keep in the refrigerator for a few days.

Sumac is an intensely maroon powder with a mild tangy flavor. Look for it at a Middle Eastern market or online retailer.

Red Lentil and Kabocha Squash Soup with Harissa Oil
Serves 4 to 6
Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free

For the quick harissa oil:

1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons sriracha, sambal oelek, or similar thick Asian chile sauce
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin
1⁄2 teaspoon caraway seeds
1⁄2 teaspoon coriander seeds
2 teaspoons ground sumac
1 garlic clove, minced

Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan and warm over low heat for about 5 minutes. Do not allow the spices to sizzle; you don’t want them to cook, just to get warm enough for their flavors to infuse the oil quickly. Remove from the heat and let sit for 5 minutes more.
Puree all of the ingredients with a stick blender or a mini food processor. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer. The oil is ready to use.

For the soup:

1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1⁄2 cups peeled, seeded, and cubed kabocha squash
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1⁄2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 1⁄2 cups red lentils
2 teaspoons kosher salt
6 cups water
Juice of half a lemon (optional)
Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
Quick harissa oil for drizzling

Heat the olive oil in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the kabocha squash and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the garlic, coriander seeds, and hot red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Do not let the spices burn.
Warm your soup bowls in a low (200°F) oven. Add the red lentils, salt, and water to the saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the lentils have mostly fallen apart, about 30 minutes. Carefully puree, very thoroughly, with a blender or immersion blender. (See page 89 for safety tips on pureeing hot soups.) Taste and adjust the seasoning, and stir in the lemon juice, if using.
Divide the soup among the warmed bowls. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and a generous drizzle of the harissa oil, and serve immediately.

Sopes with Plantain, Zucchini and Two Sauces – Recipe

Michael Natkin — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 15:05:00 +0000

Sopes with Plantain, Zucchini and Two Sauces

In Mexico, there are a whole class of dishes called antojitos that are generally thought of as street food, though they may also be offered in smaller sizes as appetizers at restaurants. Most (all?) antojitos include a corn masa component, which may be thick or thin, topped, rolled or stuff, baked or fried, and can include a wide range of toppings. Sopes are a classic antojito made by first griddling a thick tortilla, then reshaping it to have a rim and finally shallow frying to crisp it up.

Sopes can work with just about any filling you would put in a taco, like refried beans with onions, cheese, and shredded lettuce or roasted poblano strips in cheese sauce (chile con queso). For today’s version I used a simple saute of plantains, zucchini and onions, ramping up the flavor with a charred scallion and lime crema and a smoky guajillo chile salsa. I originally made this with green plantains which are starchy and neutral, kind of like a potato. However I would recommend doing it instead with ripe plantains, whose sweetness I feel would make the dish even better.

For the salsa, I’ve called for Muir Glen fire roasted tomatoes. I see them in a lot of groceries now so I don’t think you’ll have too much trouble tracking them down. They add a wonderful background smokiness that makes the whole plate more interesting. In a pinch, you can use any brand of diced tomatoes, and maybe add a bit of chipotle for smokiness if you don’t mind more heat. You can certainly replace the guajillo with ancho or another chile if you prefer.

If you choose to make this all in one day, it could be a bit of a project. You can simplify matters by making both sauces and the filling ahead, so you only have to concentrate on the sope shells the day your are serving it. All this really needs for accompaniment is guacamole, some black beans or pinto beans, and maybe a salad.

Sopes with Plantain, Zucchini and Two Sauces
Vegan if you substitute for sour cream. Kosher.
Makes 16 sopes, serves 6-8
90 minutes total

For the smoky guajillo salsa (can be made a day or two ahead):

2 dried guajillo chiles
3 cloves garlic (still in skin)
One 14.5 ounce can Muir Glen fire roasted diced tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
pinch sugar

Place a small dry skillet over medium heat. Toast the chiles and garlic, pressing and turning occasionally, until quite fragrant, about 5 minutes. Allow the chiles to cool and discard the stems and seeds.
Peel the garlic. Combine the chiles, garlic, tomatoes, salt, and sugar in a blender and whiz on high speed until smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning. Reserve.

For the charred scallion and lime sour cream (can be made a day or two ahead):

4 scallions, trimmed
1 cup sour cream (for vegan, use a vegan sour cream replacement)
Big handful of cilantro leaves and tender stems
Juice of 1 lime
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Place a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallions and cook, turning occasionally, until quite wilted and blackened in spots.
Combine the charred scallions, sour cream, cilantro, lime juice and salt in blender. Blend on high speed until smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning and reserve. In a squeeze bottle if you are into that sort of thing.

For the filling (can be made a day ahead):

1/4 cup vegetable oil, divided
2 ripe plantains cut into 1/4″ cubes (about 2 3/4 cups)
Kosher salt
2 medium zucchini cut into 1/4″ cubes (about 4 cups)
1 medium onion, diced (about 4 cups)

Put half of the vegetable oil a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the plantains and big pinch of salt. Cook, turning occasionally, until tender and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Repeat with the zucchini and then the onion (which will take less time), adding more of the oil as needed.
Mix together all of the filling ingredients with 1/4 cup of the guajillo salsa. Taste and adjust seasoning and reserve.

For the sopes (can be done a few hours ahead up through step 4):

2 1/2 cups masa harina
1 3/4 cups hot water
2 tablespoons vegetable shortening or vegetable oil
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
Vegetable oil for frying
Cilantro leaves for garnish

Combine the masa harina and hot water in a bowl and knead with your hands until it reaches the texture of playdough. Cover, and let stand 30 minutes.
Mix the the vegetable shortening, flour, salt and baking soda into the sope dough. Preheat a comal or griddle to medium high. Divide the dough into 16 pieces, roll into balls (which should be about 1 1/4 inches in diameter) and cover with plastic wrap.
Using a lined tortilla press or your hands, press one ball out to about a 3 1/2 inch round, which will be about 1/4″ thick. Bake on the griddle for 10 seconds on each side and remove. Allow to cool for a few seconds, until you can touch it comfortably. Use your fingers to pull dough from the middle out to form walls around the perimeter, about 1/4″ thick and 1/2 inch high. Return to the griddle for one minute, on the flat side only, and then set aside, covered, until ready to fry
Repeat with the remaining balls of masa. Once you have the hang of it, you can have two going at once, in staggered stages
When you are ready to finish the dish, reheat the filling and the guajillo salsa and warm your serving plates. Heat a large skillet with 3/4″ of vegetable oil over a medium-high to high flame. When it is hot enough to sizzle if a scrap of dough is added, fry the sopes, wall side down, for about 45 seconds to a minute, until they are golden brown in spots and crispy. Drain on paper towels.
Put some of the guajillo salsa on each plate, and then put two sopes on the salsa. Top each sope with a big scoop of the plantain filling and spoon on a good amount of the charred scallion sour cream. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

Zucchini Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms – Recipe

Tteokbokki – Spicy Korean Rice Cake Stew

Michael Natkin — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 14:40:07 +0000

Tteokbokki, Ddeokbokki, Dduk Boki – Spicy Korean Rice Cake Stew

Tteok (also transliterated as ddeok, duk, dduk and so forth) is a type of Korean rice cake that you can buy frozen at any Korean grocer or better general Asian grocers. The two most common shapes you will find are flat ovals, and cylinders about 1/4″ in diameter. You can see a package of the former in the picture above. They can be used in various kinds of stir fries and soups like the Tteok Guk that is a standard New Year’s dish. Today I’ll show you how to make a simple, spicy stew called tteokboki.

To make the stew you are also going to need kochujang, a ubiquitous Korean paste of fermented chilis, soybeans and rice. It tastes like fiery miso. Don’t worry, once you buy a small tub there are plenty of other things to make with it, like kimchi fried rice, spicy fried zucchini, and the kimchi stew that will be in my book.

There is nothing set in stone about the choice of shiitakes and eggplant for this dish. Koreans put all sorts of things in tteokbokki, including almost any vegetable, hardboiled eggs, even mandu or noodles (for that delicious starch-on-starch action). So feel free to improvise with what you have on hand. Just think about the timing so that the ingredients will finish together, or for precooked items simply add them at the end.

The most important thing with this stew is judging when it is done. The tteok should certainly be tender and cooked through, but not cooked so long that they are leaching out tons of starch and making an overly gooey sauce. You can add a bit more water at the end to adjust the final thickness.

Tteokbokki – Spicy Korean Rice Cake Stew
Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free
Serves 4

3 cups water
2 tablespoons kochujang (check ingredients if you need gluten free)
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons light soy sauce (choose a gluten free variety if needed)
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1″ piece of ginger, grated
1 pound frozen tteok (Korean rice cakes), any shape
1/2 pound Asian eggplant cut into bite-sized pieces
1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
3 green onions, thinly sliced, white and light green parts only
Fresh ground black pepper
Toasted sesame oil

Bring the water to a simmer in a large skillet. Non-stick is a good option as the tteok do tend to stick a bit. Add the kochujang, sugar, soy sauce, vinegar and ginger and stir. It is ok if the the kochujang doesn’t fully dissolve immediately, it will have plenty of time.
Add the tteok and cook, stirring occasionally until it comes back to a simmer, then adjust the heat to maintain the simmer. After 5 minutes add the eggplant and shiitakes and continue cooking, stirring occasionally and checking the bottom for sticking, until the tteok and eggplant are tender, about 15 minutes more minutes. If the sauce gets too thick, add a bit more water.
Taste and adjust seasoning and sauce thickness. It should definitely be thick like a stew, not a soup, but not gummy and tight. Add a bit more water if needed.
To serve, transfer to a large serving bowl or individual dishes and garnish with the green onions, black pepper and a healthy drizzle of sesame oil.

Saag with Collard Greens, Kale and Spinach – Recipe

Michael Natkin — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 15:05:17 +0000

Saag with Collards and Kale

It is a depressing fact that 99% of Indian restaurants in America serve the same darn 10 items. Which is a crying shame because there must be 10,000 other terrific dishes that you’ll only get to try if you make them yourself (or have an Indian friend that wants to hook you up with the good stuff) (or travel to India).

One of those 10 dishes you always see is saag paneer, spinach cooked with cream and cubes of fresh cheese. It is delicious, but often so rich with cream that you might feel a bit sick if you eat a whole plate, and it also tends to obscure the flavors of the greens and spices. Saag (also sometimes transliterated as sak or sag) is actually the whole family of dishes made of long cooked leafy greens. In the Punjab and Pakistan, which is where these dishes apparently originated, it can be made with any kind of dark leafy green. Also, the cream can be replaced with other dairy products, as long as you are careful not to bring it back to a boil once you add it.

The version I’m bringing you today is made with kale, collard greens, and spinach and uses yogurt instead of cream. You can vary that in any way you see fit. Mustard greens would be particularly delicious. I do recommend using about half spinach for a more delicate flavor and softer texture. The spice mixture provides a warm, complex undertone that plays beautifully off the mildly bitter greens.

Two things to keep in mind: (1) Be sure to triple-wash the greens in a bowl, not a colander. Any grit will ruin the dish. (2) You want to cook this until the greens are completely softened. This isn’t the place for lightly steamed, crunchy veggies.

Try it and let me know if it doesn’t beat the pants off typical restaurant saag paneer!

Saag with Collard Greens, Kale and Spinach
Vegetarian and gluten free
Serves 4 as part of a larger Indian dinner
15 minutes active (1 hour total)

For the spice mixture:

1/4 teaspoon ground asoefetida (hing)
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg (preferably freshly grated, use a bit more if not)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 inch piece fresh ginger, grated

Place all ingredients in a small bowl.

For the saag:

1 bunch kale
1 bunch collard greens (about 1 pound total kale and collard greens)
10 ounce package frozen spinach (or 1 pound fresh baby spinach, washed)
3 tablespoons butter or ghee
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup yogurt (I used full fat)

Strip the coarse stems from their kale and collard greens, chop them roughly, and wash them in three changes of warm water in a large bowl. Drain off the water, add the spinach, and set aside.
Melt the butter in a very large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the spice mixture and stir until fragrant but not burning, about 1 minute.
Add the greens and 1/2 cup water. Toss with tongs, then cover. Reduce heat to medium low. Cook, tossing occasionally, until completely tender and wilted, about 45 minutes, adding a bit more water if needed.
Turn off the heat, remove the lid, and allow to cool slightly. Stir in the yogurt. Taste and adjust seasoning. Gently reheat, but don’t bring all the way up toward a simmer or the yogurt may break.

Kala Chana (Black Chickpea Curry) – A Guest Post from Amee of Rabbit Food Rocks

Michael Natkin — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 15:02:40 +0000

Kala Chana (Black Chickpea Curry)

Today’s guest post is from my friend Amee of Rabbit Food Rocks. We’ve been blog buddies for a couple years now. Amee is down in Dallas, Texas. She’s Indian and today’s recipe is one of those great homestyle Indian dishes that you almost never see in a restaurant, so you have to learn to make it yourself if you want to try it. But Amee’s range is global. Check out her Scandinavian Kringler if your eyes can afford the calories! Take it away, Amee…

When I was about 11 or 12 years old, I’d ask mom what’s for dinner, and she would reply “rotli, daal, bhath, shaak” (which translates to the mundane Indian weeknight meal of “flatbread, lentil soup, rice, and side vegetable”). Sounds interesting or exotic to others, but this is actually quite dreadful to the Indian-American kid. I know my fellow Caucasian classmates were somewhere out there enjoying macaroni and cheese or spaghetti or mashed potatoes or green peas and carrots…something colorful and creamy and perhaps, even greasy…mmmmmm.

It doesn’t matter how good of a cook mom is, the phrase “rotli daal bhath shaak” is usually followed by a groan. I’d drag my feet to fulfill my duty of setting the table…and mentally prepare my stomach for implosion. And I needed to sound as disappointed as possible, in hopes that she would magically respond “No problem!! What would YOU like to eat tonight??” Mom needed to realize that everytime she served me rotli dal bhath shaak, I died a little inside. And at this rate, mom, I’d be dead before I grew boobs.

Still, you don’t have to be Indian to know that Restaurant Mom only offers two choices for dinner: Take It or Leave It. But on occasion, in lieu of the daal (lentil soup) and the shaak (vegetable), mom made a hearty kathol (general term for beans/pulses). I used to favor hearty beans over a mushy vegetable or soup. But my favorite kathol was and still is kala chana (black chickpea curry). It’s hearty, warming, and aromatic, much like a vegetarian bean-based chili. You can also use regular dried chickpeas if the kala chana are too hard to find.

Now, at 32, as I’ve grown more comfortable with re-creating mom’s dishes, this is one I continue to perfect and enjoy. …still waiting to grow boobs, though….

This is a spicy and hearty bean dish served with flatbread or naan. You can pair it with rice for a complete protein meal. This dish is often accompanied by a yogurt-based soup called kadhi, which is a perfect complement to this dish. Black chickpeas have a tough skin and are a very dense bean, so soaking overnight is a must.

Kala Chana (Black Chickpea Curry)
Serves 2-3
Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free

1 cup dry black chickpeas
1 teaspoon baking soda
7 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1/8 teaspoon asafoetida (hing)
4 dried chilies (Indian dried red chilis – if not available, chile de arbol would probably work well)
3 cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste*
1 medium onion, peeled and finely diced in the food processor (pulse well, just before it releases liquid)
2 roma tomatoes, pureed in the food processor
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon chili powder (or more/less to taste) (cayenne is an ok substitute)
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
2-3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro (optional)

*ginger garlic paste is 1:1 puree of ginger and garlic, but you can substitute 1″ grated ginger plus 5 cloves garlic crushed and finely diced

(Without a pressure cooker, skip steps 1-3 and do this instead: soak the beans overnight and then rinse and replace the water and cook on medium heat in a medium pot for an hour and 15 mins. Make sure water level is at least 1″ above the beans at all times.)

Soak the beans with the baking soda in 3 cups water overnight. Drain water.
Fill the pressure cooker with the soaked beans, add 4 cups of fresh water. Add the salt to the water, and pressure cook for 3 whistles (12 minutes). Turn off the heat but do not open the pressure cooker.
After 45 mins or later, open the pressure cooker and drain the beans.
Heat canola oil in a wide saute pan or wok (pan should be at least 3″ deep) on med-high heat. Add asafoetida, mustard seeds, chilies, cloves,and cinnamon stick. Fry for about 1 to 2 mins until fragrant but not burned.
Add onions to the pan and cook for 4-5 mins or until onions soften and become translucent. Add ginger-garlic paste (or substitute) and cook for 1-2 mins.
Add tomatoes to the pan, stir well, and then add coriander, cumin, turmeric, chili powder.
Cook for 5 minutes, mixing well. Add garam masala and beans. Cover and simmer on low for 20 mins, stirring occasionally.
Turn off heat, garnish with cilantro, and serve over rice, or with flatbread, parathas, or naan.

Kasha Pilaf with Dates, Pistachios and Baharat – Recipe

Michael Natkin — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 15:05:00 +0000

Kasha Pilaf with Dates, Pistachios and Baharat

I originally made this pilaf to stuff in cabbage rolls, inspired by this lovely post from Give Recipe. My version of the stuffed cabbage was good, but the sauce I came up with didn’t knock it out of the park for me. The pilaf, on the other hand, I just loved. I made way too much of it and ended up eating it every day for three days and would have kept going if there was any left.

If you haven’t worked with kasha before, I think you will love it’s nutty, almost haunting flavor. It is simply whole grain buckwheat kernels, which are a staple food in Eastern Europe. It might seem a bit odd to use it in a pilaf with Middle Eastern or North African flavors, but there has certainly been a lot of historical migration between those areas so it isn’t such a stretch. Kasha can often be found in the Jewish foods section of a grocery store. Wolff’s is a common brand; choose medium or whole granulation if you have the option. Buckwheat kasha is gluten-free by the way. Although the name is confusing, it is unrelated to wheat.

If you want to go a different route, you could do this same recipe with couscous or freekeh instead. I haven’t tried, but I can’t see it failing to be delicious.

Baharat is one of those wonderful Middle Eastern spice blends with tremendous complexity. It is sweet, hot, floral and altogether moutwatering. I use one from World Spice Merchants. You could also make your own, or feel free to experiment with dukkah or ras el hanout as alternatives.

Kasha Pilaf with Dates, Pistachios and Baharat
Vegetarian and gluten free
Serves 4 as a side dish

1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup buckwheat groats (kasha) (medium grain)
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups water
1 tablespoon baharat (or ras el hanout)
Several grinds black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
1/3 cup seeded and diced dates
1/3 cup shelled pistachios

Stir together the egg and kasha until the grains are coated. Place a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the egg coated kasha and cook, stirring pretty constantly, until the grains dry out and separate, about 4 minutes.
Add the salt, butter, and water and stir. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low to maintain the simmer, cover and cook until all of the water is absorbed, about 12 minutes. Remove from heat, allow to cool slightly, and fluff with a fork.
Stir in the baharat, black pepper, cayenne and dates. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Just before serving, lightly toast the pistachios in dry skillet over medium heat and mix them in. (Don’t do this much in advance or they will absorb moisture and lose their crunch.)

“So What Is Going On With Your Cookbook?” And Other Life Changing News

Michael Natkin — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:07:09 +0000

A page spread from the Herbivoracious cookbook

In journalism, they say “don’t bury the lede”, but today I’ve got three of them:

The cookbook will hit stores on May 8th, 2012 (if you are new here and thinking “what cookbook?” look here)
You can pre-order it this very minute on Amazon, Barnes & Noble, or IndieBound
I’m quitting my day job

After 1.5 years of writing and testing and shooting and meeting and eating and editing and strategizing and even occasionally arguing, the book is at the printer right now. The team at Harvard Common Press has done an incredible job of designing the book so that it will be both lovely to look at and easy to use. Click on the page spread image above and you’ll see what I mean. The final stats: hardcover, 368 pages, 150 recipes, and 80+ full color photos.

I tweaked recipes until the last possible moment, making sure everything is dialed in just how I want it to be when you get your hands on it. It is an amazing feeling to have gone through this process with all of your support. There were definitely days when things weren’t going right in the kitchen that I would take a step back and remind myself how many of you have reached out to encourage me over the years. Obviously not every dish is going to be to everyone’s taste, but I feel confident that if you pick a recipe in the book because it sounds good to you, you are going to end up with something you will be proud of.

One thing I’ve emphasized through the whole process is that this isn’t just a cookbook for vegetarians. Almost everyone I talk to these days, regardless of their diet, wants to eat less meat. In fact, meat and poultry consumption in the US is down 12% over the past 5 years. I think there is a general recognition that meatless meals are good for your health, the environment, and animal welfare. I hope and believe that this book will be of interest to anyone who loves food.

When folks plan a vegetarian meal, they are often unsure what to do for an entree, so I’ve included over 40 main courses. You’ll be able to build a satisfying, healthful, and most of all, delicious meal around these main dishes, with a large selection of appetizers, salads, soups and side dishes. Chapters on breakfast and some unusual desserts round out the selection.

The book will officially hit the stores on May 8th, 2012. Harvard Common Press is doing an amazing amount to support it. In an era where tours are mostly on the author’s own dime if they happen at all, they are sending me on a multi-week tour all over the US, which is an indication of just how strongly they believe in this book. The dates and cities aren’t completely nailed down yet. I can’t wait for the opportunity to connect with all of you folks in person! If you would like to be on the email list so that you get each week’s new recipes and updates about the book and events, just sign up right here:

And yes… I’m quitting my day job. I’ve been a professional software engineer since I was 16 (yep, really… my first paid gig was writing accounting software for construction companies with my old pal David Harpe). I’ve had the opportunity to work for George Lucas making dinosaurs and Terminators, and for the past 12.5 years I’ve been at Adobe, working on After Effects with a group of people that have become some of my best friends in the world. It isn’t easy to step out of that womb. But my passion for food has simply grown to the point where I can’t keep squeezing it in on nights and weekends. As much as I love cooking for friends and family, writing, and interning at restaurants, it has become clear to me that I need cooking to be my full time focus.

So I’m taking the leap. Am I nuts to give up the security of a good paying, mostly 9-5 job with great friends for massive uncertainty? Probably. Still, March 1st will be my last day at Adobe. After that, I’ll be spending several months improving the blog and promoting the book, and then I plan to open a restaurant of my own in Seattle, probably starting with a series of pop-ups while I develop the menu and find the right space and team.

Here we go!

No related posts.

Quick Marinated Feta with Orange, Mint and Aleppo Pepper – Recipe

Michael Natkin — Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:04:35 +0000

Quick Marinated Feta with Orange Zest, Mint and Aleppo Pepper

Here’s about as easy an appetizer as you could want for a Middle Eastern or Mediterranean meal or cocktail party spread. We’ll just make a quick marinade of good olive oil with garlic, Aleppo pepper, orange zest and fresh mint, pour it over the top of a block of feta cheese and serve it forth with lightly toasted pita bread.

By the way, I’m calling this marinated because that seems to be the convention, but really it is more like “dressed”. You can put the dressing on earlier if you want, but it doesn’t really sink into the cheese and you don’t need it to. Your diners will spread the cheese and dressing onto the pita and the flavors will all come together on their palate.

It is worth exploring the different varieties of feta. For example, at Seattle’s Pacific Food Importers (aka Big John’s), you might find a creamy Bulgarian variety, a French sheepsmilk feta and a couple of domestic brands. Whole Foods normally has a couple of options, including a nice one from Mt. Vikos. Whichever one you choose, pat off any surface moisture and allow it to come up to a cool room temperature before serving. If you serve cheese at refrigerator temperature, much of the flavor is muted.

Aleppo pepper is grown in what used to be the Jewish part of Syria. It has a gorgeous dark red color and earthy, robust, slightly fruity flavor that I love. If you can’t get your hands on it, use regular chili flakes.

A more typical Middle Eastern version of this marinade would actually use dried mint, and you can feel free to do that if you like. The flavor is quite different than fresh, but equally interesting.

Quick Marinated Feta with Orange Zest, Mint and Aleppo Pepper
Vegetarian and gluten free

2 tablespoons best quality extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 big pinch Aleppo pepper or chili flakes
1 teaspoon orange zest (from about 1/2 orange)
8 mint leaves (chiffonade) or 1 teaspoon dried mint (rub to release flavor)
7 ounces feta
3 pita breads cut into 1/8th rounds and lightly toasted in the oven

In a small bowl, stir together the olive oil, garlic, pepper flakes, orange zest and mint.
Put the feta on a plate in one large piece and pour the marinade over it.
Serve at cool room temperature with the toasted pita.

Cream of Stinging Nettle Soup – A Guest Post From Laura of Hip Pressure Cooking

Michael Natkin — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 15:00:17 +0000

Cream of Stinging Nettle Soup

Today I’m excited to bring you a guest post from Laura of Hip Pressure Cooking. I’ve fallen in love with my pressure cooker over the past couple of years, and I’ve come to rely on Laura’s site as the definitive resource for how to use it. She doesn’t make pressure cooker recipes simply to speed things up. For her, it isn’t a useful recipe unless the dish comes out as good or better than it would on the stovetop or in the oven. Laura is Italian, and you can imagine an Italian woman would take a lot of heat for suggesting that traditional foods like polenta can be made successfully in a non-traditional way! So you can be sure assured that her recipes don’t just work, they knock it out of the park.

For today’s guest post, she shows us how to make a cream of stinging nettle soup, which is perfect timing because nettle season is just about to get going, at least in my part of the country. If you don’t forage for them yourself, check out your local farmer’s market, as nettles don’t typically appear in grocery stores. Take it away, Laura…

Introduction to Pressure Cooking

Pressure cookers considerably shorten the cooking time of just about anything – including soups!

A pressure cooker is a normal high-quality stainless steel pan with a fancy top which seals shut at the beginning of cooking and traps vapor inside allowing the pressure to build and internal temperature to rise higher than what can be achieved with conventional cooking – resulting in faster cooking, more intense flavor, and better preserved vitamins and minerals!

Technology has made modern pressure cookers safer (with redundant safety mechanisms), faster (more pressure) and quieter than ever- no more whistling, shhshing or unexpected bursts of vapor while under pressure.

How Much Faster?

How about…

Soaked chickpeas ready in 33* minutes vs. 3 hours (or more) of simmering – black beans need only 20*!
Pasta and Sauce cooked together, with al dente results ready in the time it would take to get a pot of hot water to boil.
Almost any veggie steamed to perfection with just 5 minutes or less under pressure (with exception of potatoes, pumpkin and beets)
A veggie stock can be cooked at pressure for only 5 minutes, and then the residual heat of the pressure cooker will keep cooking it for 10 minutes or more (no energy!).
A steamed dessert custard can be fully cooked without curdling in 5-10 minutes (depending on the size of the container)

*Cooking time includes time to pressure and open – in other words, from start to finish!

Why is Pressure Cooking Good for Vegetables?

Pressure cooking prevents the oxidation of veggies, using the steamer basket preserves the water-soluble vitamins, the sealed top keep the vitamins from evaporating away, and the quick cooking helps to retain more minerals that could be destroyed by longer cooking times. The result will be more flavor, more color and a retention of up to 95% of vitamins and minerals (vs. regular cooking, which only retains about 40%).

So What Can it Do?

You can use a pressure cooker to cook vegetables, fruits, dessert, grains (meat and fish, for the omnivores) and it is famous for how quickly it can cook beans! A pressure cooker will let you cook in the following ways -including combining traditional cooking techniques with this super-fast cooker:

Brown – this is the first step in many recipes, like risotto, and can be done before the lid is placed and pressure cooking begins, or after it is removed.
Boil – just add enough water to cover the food by half.
Steam – insert the accessory, or a metal-foldable steaming basket with 1 cup of water.
Braise – brown the food in the pan, and then add 1/2 a cup or less of liquid (wine, milk, broth, water).
Stew – throw everything in, cover with liquid, and close the top.
Steam Roast – place the food suspended with rack, trivet or steamer basket with just 1-2 cups of cooking liquid.
Reduce – after the lid is removed, cook on high flame to reduce liquids if desired.
Water Bath (Bain Marie)– place a heat-resistant bowl (ceramic, Pyrex, stainless steel), covered in aluminum foil on steamer basket inside pressure cooker with 1 cup of water on the bottom.
Perfectly Cooked Rice – add the correct proportion of rice to water, bring to pressure and turn off the pressure cooker. The residual heat and vapor will cook the rice perfectly.
Extract Juice - place fruit in steamer basket with container underneath.

Show Me!

Though the recipe below does not require a pressure cooker – you will find that once you discover the taste and speed at which your food is ready that you won’t ant to put it down. Making this recipe “the regular no pressure way” would have you use a stock you made beforehand (instead of making it on the fly), boiling the potatoes for 30 minutes and tossing in the nettles during the last 10 minutes.

Picking & Washing Stinging Nettles

A web search will yield a host of bloggers picking nettles with tongs, gloves and anything possible to avoid getting stung. The reality is that if you’re getting stung, the nettle is really too old to be picked and cooked. The soft, young nettles which have not yet bloomed will not prick you and.. if you are brave enough to stick one in your mouth they have a very strong and refreshing flavor of cucumber – just taste it though, stinging nettles are not a raw food. There may still be some traces of “formic acid” which is the “sting” one would get from red fire ants which is destroyed during cooking.

The youngest pieces can be picked and the leaves and stalks can be used… though the slightly older will have slightly more woody stems that will need to be separated from the leaves.

To wash, simply put them in a colander and then submerge it in water (either in a bigger bowl or sink). Swish them around so any dirt will fall to the bottom and then strain out and shake them a bit to get out any excess of water.

You will need a lot of nettles to make this recipe (about two colanders full). Nettles are very thin, weigh nothing and will practically disintegrate during cooking. You can supplement your foraged nettles with equal amounts of baby spinach to get to the right weight.

Crema di Ortiche - Stinging Nettle Soup (Pressure Cooker)
Vegetarian and gluten-free
Serves 4-6

7 oz. or 200gr of Stinging Nettles (or mix of Nettles and Baby Spinach),
1/2 Tbsp. Butter
1/2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
1 small Scallion, sliced
1 small (or half of a large) carrot, roughly chopped
1 stalk Celery, roughly chopped
2 medium potatoes, medium dice (with skin on)
Salt and Pepper to taste (about 1 tsp. of salt and 1/4 tsp. of pepper)
4 cups or 1lt Water
4 Tbsp. Cream or Yogurt

Special equipment: Pressure cooker; immersion Blender or blender

In the pre-heated pressure cooker melt the butter and soften the scallion, then add the carrots and celery and lightly brown them. Next, add the potatoes, salt and mix everything together. Lastly, add the nettles. Let them rest on top of the water and do not stir them in.
Close and lock your pressure cooker. Turn the heat up to high until it reaches pressure. Then, turn the heat down to low and count 5 minutes cooking time at HIGH pressure. When the time is up, open the pressure cooker with the Cold-water-quick release – bring your pressure cooker to the sink and pour water over the top, tilting it to avoid having water get into the valves. For electric pressure cookers, open with the Normal release – twist the valve to release pressure quickly.
Puree the contents of the pressure cooker and serve with a spoon of yogurt or cream for flavor and garnish.