Peeled cherry tomatoes are the star of this show

Ever since I read Shuna's post about peeling cherry tomatoes, the idea has been lodged in my mind, like a song you just have to sing to forget. Ok, specifically, it was this line:

"Tomato skin is like pantyhose. Sheer, almost transparent, and yet truly in the way of what you really want."

It takes a certain amount of talent to make cherry tomatoes sound ribald! But she's absolutely right. The effort is totally worth it and not really that hard for small quantities. The technique Shuna explains works beautifully - small X in the bottom with a very sharp knife, dip for 5 seconds in boiling water, ice bath, peel.

The difference really is amazing. Tomato is skin is notoriously tough, which is why most folks use a serrated knife to saw through it, rather than the cleaving motion of a straight edge. A plain knife has to be a scalpel to do a good job, and it will get dull in no time.

Your mouth is in the same predicament. By the time your teeth apply enough blunt force to burst the fruit, you are confronted with all juice and you don't really experience that tender flesh. (Is it getting warm in here?)

For my first try at a dish highlighting these little beauties, I warmed them in my favorite fruity olive oil (Frantoia), tossed with thyme leaves, Maldon salt and pepper, and served them on a bed of thinly sliced radishes. They shared the plate with a simple pan-fried goat cheese, reminiscent of a dish we used to make at Cafe Flora. For this simplified version, I just flattened the cheese into a patty, pressed it in fine cornmeal, and pan-fried on both sides until golden brown. A few drops of precious balsamico tradizionale and let's eat.

If you are willing to go outside the locavore zone, the traveling heirloom cherry tomatoes are quite decent - much better than their full size cousins though of course nothing like what you'll get at the farmer's market in the fullness of the season. Which in Seattle is about a week and a half, so you'll have to forgive me.

I thought this dish worked out well, but there are lots of other ways to play. The peeled tomatoes would be amazing tossed with toasted cubes of rustic bread, or with fresh mozzarella (better yet, burrata). Or garnishing a chilled tomato soup. Or with polenta. What about in a tart, is that overkill? Tomatoes and fresh grapes don't normally go together, but if you peeled them both, is there some way they could hang out? Or or or....

Scrambled eggs with epazote and poblanos

Epazote is an absolutely common, everyday herb in many parts of Mexico, Central and South America, but it is barely known in the United States outside of Latin American communities. It is worth your while to track down, as the flavor is utterly unique. If you take bite of the raw leaf, it is resinous (like rosemary), citrusy, herbal and vegetal all at once, with maybe a hint of gasoline! Diana Kennedy and Rick Bayless both say there is no substitute for it, and I have to agree.

Cooked quickly, like in the scrambled eggs above, the fresh flavors mellow to something palatable and exciting. But throw a handful into slowly cooked black or refried pinto beans, and you get an inexplicable, almost meaty flavor. People will tell you they are the best beans they have ever tasted, but they won't be able to say why. And as a bonus, it is thought to be a carminative, reducing the wind-inducing nature of said legumes.

Your best bet for finding epazote in the US is to visit a Mexican grocery and ask. There is a good chance they might have small packages tucked away in a refrigerator. It is perfectly fine to use when quite wilted, it just shouldn't be turning black or moldy. It apparently is a common weed in North America, so if you know what to look for, it might be free or very easy to grow. I haven't tried the dried version, but it is hard to imagine it would be very good.

I was going to write you out a recipe for scrambled eggs with epazote, but that hardly seems necessary. You know how to scramble eggs. For every two eggs, just beat in maybe a tablespoon of chopped epazote leaf. So much the better if you have leftover roasted poblano strips (rajas) from the Achiote-rubbed Butternut Squash Tacos - throw in a hearty handful of them too. Serve with steaming-hot corn tortillas, salsa or hot sauce, and cotija cheese if you have it.

Indian-style cabbage you can make in 5 minutes

This cabbage side dish is great to have in your arsenal, because it comes together in 5 minutes flat, and makes a big and flavorful addition to an Indian meal. I break out some variation of it when I'm making a curry, rice and raita and feel the need for one more dish to round out the meal.

Everything in the cabbage family (brassica) goes great with mustard, so mustard seeds are the primary flavoring. If you happen to have mustard oil, you can use that instead of the vegetable oil and reduce the seeds by half. Be sure and have all of chopping done and your spices measured in advance, because once the mustard seeds hit the oil, you have to move quickly.

Five-Minute Indian-style Cabbage
Serves 4 as a side dish
Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free

• 1/2 head green cabbage, cored and sliced thin
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil or ghee (clarified butter), or mustard oil, or more to taste
• 1 tablespoon black mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt
• optional: garlic, ginger, unsweetened shredded coconut, fresh chilis or dried chili flakes, garam masala
• optional garnish: cilantro, lemon juice
  

1. Heat a large skillet or wok over a medium-high flame. Add the oil, wait 10 seconds, and immediately add the mustard seeds.
2. As soon as they start to pop, add the rest of the spices and any optional ingredients and stir-fry for 10 more seconds. Move quickly here so you infuse the flavor in the oil but don't burn them.
3. Add the cabbage and salt, and stir-fry until crisp-tender or tender, your preference. Taste and adjust seasoning.
4. Garnish with cilantro and/or lemon juice.