The Vino File - A Wine Blog

Notes to an Emerging Wine Region

2012-01-27T10:00:00.000-08:00

Dear New New World Wine Region-

I know you don't feel new, as you have put in years of hard work and sincere dedication to your craft. I only classify you as new because you are not yet widely recognized by consumers worldwide. I hope that the term 'new' is not discouraging, as it is meant to inspire the idea of opportunity, the world is your oyster. I am writing you today to give you an idea of one consumer's observations on how you can best use your expansion and growth to focus on success. There are many ways in which you can focus your efforts to increase your sales, and increase your visibility. After all, you have the opportunity to shape your own future, and a lot of other emergent wine regions successes and pitfalls to learn from. As I see it, here are the ways in which you can increase your recognition:

Marketing - Consumers need to know about you, and one way to do this is to get yourself out there. This can be done through focused PR pushes in the countries to which you export. Advertising, writeups in wine journals, and social media campaigns will put your country and your bottles in the craws of the hordes, it may get people talking (the best type of advertising) and may increase general awareness. This takes money, and takes time, and in my opinion must be backed up by quality, consistency, and availability. Marketing is the first step in creating buzz, and as inauthentic as it may be if no one knows about you - no one cares.

Tourism - Another way to increase your visibility is to ensure that your wine producing region is somewhere that people want to visit. France is the most visited country in the world, and the wine regions benefit from this (along with many other reasons). Take Temecula, California - they are certainly not winning any real recognition for the quality of their wine (offensiveness noted) but their ability to market the wine country lifestyle to the millions of San Diegans and Angelenos within 90 minutes drive of their vineyards keeps the cash flowing. If the region can combine wine with an infrastructure that encourages traffic (hotels, restaurants, other cultural interest) then your emergence will be pushed. If no one wants to come to the epicenter of your production, you will stall.

Perfecting your fruit - By far the most important aspect of your growth is your ability to grow the right fruit in the right setting. Different grapes obviously do well in different environments, and too many emerging regions are caught waffling between trying to find a grape that is unique to them, or trying to appeal to all the accepted global varietals, and they end up getting it all wrong. Your soil, your sun, your fog, may not be able to do both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, and trying to do so will only result in poor quality and a lack of distinction. On the other hand an insistence on pushing a grape that is unique to your region, as the sole means of identity, can also be difficult (I'm looking at you Pinotage). New Zealand languished a bit on the global scene until it was widely accepted that they had great conditions to create their grassy, grapefruity Sauvignon Blanc. Whether you like this style or not, it is undeniable that fitting that grape into their unique terroir, and honing in on the farming and vinification techniques that matched what the planet had given them, launched New Zealand into the everyday lexicon of wine drinker worldwide. In the end it is all about the fruit and until you discover what grapes are right for your region (and more importantly which ones are not) you will struggle to emerge.

Globalizing your wine style - A HUGE pitfall in emerging wine regions, is quickly attempting to globalize your wine style. It is a catastrophe, and one that I have seen over and over, to take the grapes you are given and assume that additional ripening, additional extraction, and additional oak will inherently produce a bottle of wine that can be marketed well (ala high scores), sold for more money (ala $100), and accepted into the restaurants and cellars that you strive for. Indistinct, but bombastic, fruit flavors with overtones of expensive vanilla and smokey char are not the answer. Consistent expression of your unique fruit is, and while slower, the authenticity of this approach is really the only way to go.

Let me get down to business. I am writing this letter directly to you Uruguay. As I recently had the opportunity to taste a whole lineup of what you are offering through your grape Tannat. It was a nice experience, and one filled with wines I would buy, drink, and recommend. And yet it got me thinking about the way in which you are emerging. I know you didn't ask for this advice, but it inevitably came welling up inside of me. The bottles I tasted seemed to be inversely appealing to the price point (for the most part). The cheaper bottles, such as the Puebla del Sol 2010 Tannat, and the Puelba del Sol 2010 Rose Tannat were fresh, distinct, and truly a pleasure to drink. At $10 they are perfect weekday wines, the red wine showing dusty blackberry, resolved tannins, and tart pomegranate, and the rose having fresh flavors of strawberry and a nice spicy element. These wines are exciting due to their low price point and their simple expression of something different, something Uruguyan. Moving up a level the Don Pascual 2010 Reserve Tannat was also fresh and delicious. The brambly blackberry began to show the dark fruit expression of this grape across several bottles, the acid kept the fruit in check, and the focus showed a slightly higher quality to the grapes used between this $16 bottle, and it's little Puebla del Sol cousin. But some of the more expensive bottles troubled me, the Don Pascual Roble 2010 Tannat and the $125 1er Cru d'Exception 2008 were lavishly oaked and therefore lost any sense of the grape and the country. This is not the way to go, and was disappointing.

So here are my final thoughts. Go with Tannat, that is fine. You are clearly able to grow the grape and keep it back from its often harsh tannic structure and difficult youth. There is also a consistency to the fruit expression from the grapes you are growing (when you don't bludgeon it with barrel staves). Tie the bottles to a lifestyle - we cooked up some traditional Uruguayan dishes (pascualina is a must try) and it was brilliant. South American wine has a starting place, and you can certainly be a distinct offering within this place. Let your fruit do the talking, and if that results in a slew of wines in the $10-$30 range, then you will be right in line with most Malbec, Carmenere, and Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that has caught on in the U.S. And that is a good thing for your emergence. You have plenty going for you, and I hope you great success. I know my little venture into Tannat will result in more bottles of your product on my dinner table, and with a little focus and patience I believe my fellow wine drinkers will follow suit.

Scott

The Tannats were provided as media samples with intent to review.

Stuff Parisians Like - A Book Review

2012-01-19T22:38:00.000-08:00

There comes a time in most wine explorations paths in which France must come into consideration. A country that produces so much wonderful wine simply must become a part of any true understanding of wine. And I must say that in my consideration is has done quite well. Even in our domestic productions we refer to Bordeaux blends, Burgundian grapes, and Rhone varietals. In my journey I have come to have a deep respect for the history, the traditions, and the qualities of the wines of France. It's not that one must think French wine better than their non-French counterparts (although many wine enthusiasts do) it is just a fact that many New World wines will tout their ability to compare to the standards France has set. The vinfluence of France's vineyards and cellars simply must be recognized.

What followed for me was a bit of a fascination with the people and culture of France. I hope you have learned on these pages how much an understanding of where a wine comes from can enhance a wine drinking experience. When I made the rather simple discovery that it was French people who invented the wonders of a bottle of Champagne, I knew that these people were fascinating.

I recently read a book, that while not exactly about wine, is a deep and sarcastic plunge into the culture of the Parisians. With plenty of insight into 'les paysans' the book offers a tongue-in-cheek whirlwind tour into many of the cultures that make up the French. Stuff Parisians Like, by Olivier Magny is arguably filled with offensive stereotypes, yet it instead comes across as a jovial celebration of the quirks and idiosyncrasies that make the French who they are.

For me this was a fun read, and one that takes some of the mysticism and intimidation out of the country that offers such a complex wine history. While not directly discussing wine and its array of regions in France, it reminded me that these are people just like the people of Sonoma, or Walla Walla. With hilarious chapters such as:

Having Theories

Despising le PSG

The Idea of Sailing

Bitching About Waiters

and Not Drinking Wine

This book will have you laughing, concurring, and feeling more confident about making a trip to Paris (followed by jaunts to Champagne, or the Loire). The author does have a strong wine connection, having opened O-Chateau in Paris to offer wine classes, and subsequently a wine bar in the 1er arrondissement that has a great reputation. Read the book, book your tickets to Paris, get signed up for one of Magny's classes, and let your wine exploration expand into a fascination with the wonderfully complex (but not as intimidating as you thought) culture of France.

You can purchase the book here.

The book was provided as a media sample.

A Tale of Two Pinots

2012-01-13T09:04:00.000-08:00

The story: Wine writers/bloggers love to argue the merits of the wine score. This is generally followed up by an argument about the motivation to have the original score argument. The only conclusion here, from a less than interested consumer point of view, is that writers and critics probably just love to argue. That might be true. Or it may just be a matter of passion. Anyone who would dedicate themselves to a single subject the way wine writers and bloggers do, must have a bit of passion. And when you are passionate about something you naturally begin to develop opinions, and apparently the need to sharpen those opinions against contrasting thought. I understand the arguments for scores on both sides. It seems a bit foolish to try and quantify something as subjective as the experience of a taste of wine. And yet many consumers like the comfort that an expert's clearly expressed opinion offers them. Critics say that these scores must be taken in context with the text that accompanies the score to truly understand why the wine received the score it received.

I recently drank two New World Pinot Noirs within a short span. One from California's Sonoma Coast, the other from half way around the world in New Zealand, these wines were so remarkably alike that it got me thinking about scores, even with notes. Obviously tasted next to each other these wines would not be identical. And likely tasted next to each other a person would come up with a preference for one over the other (possibly even a strong preference). But from the tasting notes below, see if you can tell which one you would prefer and therefore put out your cash for:

The wines: The Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2009 Freestone Hills Pinot Noir is a translucent magenta in the glass, with a nice nose of dusty cherries, forest floor, and baking spice. The palate is lush and bursting with juicy cherries. Across the mid-palate the Christmas spice kicks in, turning the juice towards the sweet side and then finishing with enough acidity to keep it friendly.

The Craggy Range 2009 Te Muna Road Pinot Noir pours a bright cherry red. The nose expresses dusty cherry juice, a bit of herbacous leafiness, and some clear cinnamon. In the mouth one gets ripe cherry juiciness and a bit of barrel spice that leads to a rather heavy sweetness on the lengthy and tasty finish.

The verdict: In both cases I found these wines tasty, easy to drink, pleasant, and probably widely appealing. I wrote for both wines that they seemed a bit ripe and lacked any substantially interesting flavors, but would certainly have mass appeal, and present exactly what they intend to present. There is nothing wrong with either of these wines, you must just appreciate the fresh and fruity stylings of rather New World Pinot Noir. And (privately since I do not score wines on The Vino File), I gave both wines 89 points. I would also add that both wines will probably benefit from a bit more time, some of the nuance was lost in their youth and as the fruit recedes they will get better. By the way, both wines are around $40 (not uncommon for a quality pinot I suppose.)

What strikes me is that neither the score nor the note can really indicate the differences in these wines. That bothered me for awhile. But then I realized that taken individually this information is helpful, and for me is worthwhile. If I know I like my Pinot to express lively fruit, a touch of spice from laying in oak, and to be juicy and easy to drink, then these notes make it clear that I will enjoy these wines. If I know that I like my Pinot bold and layered, or more reserved and smokey, then these are probably not the wines for me.

In the end I do recommend these wines for people who prefer this style. They were both well made and delicious. I also propose that while context and severe distinction is impossible to anticipate or communicate in a score or a 60 word text, there is value in seeing what others say about a wine. I guess then I better keep on!

Disclaimer: These wines were received as media samples with intent to review.

A Sweet Spot for a Willamette Valley Stop

2012-01-06T09:04:00.000-08:00

I need to come clean on something. Despite my utter obsession with wine I'm not too keen on a long day of tasting room hopping. I enjoy tasting and learning, and I enjoy trying to get a sense for a wine region that is new or unfamiliar to me, but often get bored at being presented with the marketed side of an afternoon in wine country. I seem to prefer experiencing the wines with food, across producers, or in the more intimate setting of a home (mine in particular). What this has translated to for me over the years is a tendency to seek out great little restaurants or cafes in a new wine region, that has a wine list that covers the area, offers by the glass or flight selections, and a great atmosphere and food.

I've found one in the Willamette Valley that clearly fits the bill. Opened recently in my childhood village of Albany, Sweet Red Coffee & Wine Bistro is a coffee and pastry shop in the morning, a great lunch bistro in the afternoon, and a laid back small plate cafe in the evening. It is cheery and welcoming, with just the right touch of sophistication in its menu. And it offers a very affordable by-the-glass wine list covering Oregon and bits of Washington.

If I have any complaints, I'm not big on the name. I know Americans like their wine sweet, but I have come across very few sweet red wines, outside of Port, that are particularly interesting. They have a few sweet reds that apparently sell very well, and I understand the need to move bottles, but it seems to me to diminish the seriousness that their spectacular food provides (and what pairs well with sweet reds?) Their wine list as a whole is also a bit shallow. There is plenty to enjoy, some good pinot noirs, a few Southern Oregon Bordeauxs that are very pleasant, but in an attempt to keep the glasses under $10 there is a lot of spectacular Northwest wine that is automatically eliminated. Again, probably in a very calculated manner to keep local regular customers coming back, which is a very valid tactic, but a few broader options in addition to the regular options would be appealing.

But enough of that, let me tell you why I love this place and will revisit whenever in the Willamette Valley. It is simply put the food. It is imaginative, inexpensive, beautifully plated, and downright delicious. Playing with local flavors, Sweet Red has invented such dishes as Walnut and Date Crostini - a delightfully complex play between the brown sugar sweetness of the dates, the oily nuttiness of the walnuts, and the pungent saltiness of brie. It is interesting in texture and flavor and a surprising start to a meal (tastes delicious with a light Oregon pinot by the way). Many of the entrees are rather straightforward in their planning, but sauced and seasoned in such a way that they feel unique (especially for the dining scene in little Albany). The fiery shrimp are perfectly spicy, and in my visit were also perfectly cooked. The brussel sprouts were a hit, as was the mac n' cheese. And the prices, for wine country, were very fair. With a few interesting micro brews on tap, this place rounds up to a real winner.

When touring the Willamette Valley it is worth heading south from the well-known Dundee Hills to check out some of the spectacular producers that have found unique terroir further down the valley. This puts you very near the town of Albany, where you can explore an entire downtown of well-preserved Victorian architecture, and get a sense of what rural Oregon towns are really like. If you do this, you must stop at Sweet Red, for an entirely different experience and one you will not regret.

The 10 Most Exciting Wines of 2011

2011-12-31T11:30:00.000-08:00

I know people bag on Top Ten lists. But I don't know why. Maybe it is their fear of commitment. It is a pleasure for me to taste hundreds and hundreds of wines each year and carefully include a few in a rather short list. Those that stuck with me, stood out amongst the rest, and linger in my memories of 2011. The list I prefer to make is not necessarily those who I would score the highest (as occasionally rather perfect wines don't completely hold my interest.) Instead they are the 10 wines that were exciting for me. The 10 wines I remember exactly how they smelled and tasted, or how they added to a wonderful experience. So I present to you my 10 most exciting wines of 2011, and say without reservation that any of them would bring pleasure:

10) 2007 Scagliola Frem Barbera d'Asti - Maybe it was finding this wine for $10, but it seriously delivered with mushrooms and dark fruit, and perfect oak spicing (not easy for me to say). It was a spectacular blend of fruit and Italian rusticity that reminded me that Italian wine is made for the dinner table - as it went perfectly with our grilled sausage dinner.

9) 2008 Zotovitch Cellars Syrah - I've been a bit of a California Syrah advocate this year, and here is an example of why I love it. The meatiness and black pepper hint at the cold climate of these Sta. Rita Hills vineyards, and yet a hefty alcohol level integrates and adds some power. Steve Clifton consulted on this wine, and the result is delicious (and exciting!)

8) 2009 Uvaggio Vermentino - Back to Italy, but via Lodi, California. This wine is spectacularly savory and fresh. I chose it because I think there is something to Italian varietals and Lodi, something I would not have expected. While this is clearly my favorite wine of the lot, I have had some interesting dry Moscato, and Barbera from Lodi as well this year and hope that they are on to something. The price here is incentive to try it as well.

7) 2008 " The Day Job" Stage Left Cellars - A unique blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre makes for a layered wine that is distinct and exciting. I was also captivated by the story of Melinda Doty and Rich Williams who have built this urban Oakland winery piece by piece. If you get a hold of this wine, and really want to know what lingers for me, smell and taste for the Mourvedre's savory influence in the finish. I can still taste it.

6) 2008 Wind Gap Syrah Griffin's Lair - Oops, another California Syrah from a fairly cold vineyard happens to sneak in here. This one is multi-layered, broad, and a bit wild. It is truly a beautiful wine, from a label that is consistently making spectacular bottles.

5) 2010 Bedrock Compagni Portis Heirloom White - This wine makes the list because of owner/winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson's dedication to the nearly extinct 12 varietals of Compagni Portis vineyard that make up this blend. Well, some are nearly extinct. The wine is primarily Gewurtzraminer, and it is spectacularly waxy, tropical, and floral. It is a unique wine that seems truly Californian, but the spice and mineral on the finish bring it home in a way that is difficult to describe.

4) 2006 Vergari Van der Kamp Pinot Noir - I go back and forth with Pinot Noir, because there are so many bad ones. But this wine is spectacular. I first met David Vergaria at Pasadena's Pinot Fest last February, and have become a customer. His focus is clear (age able, balanced pinot from California's best vineyards) and his success is evident in each bottle I have opened. The Van der Kamp offers dusty cherries and herbs, hints of smoke and earth, and beautiful acidity.

3) 2009 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane - Expensive, yes. Mind-blowing, yes. Able to create a Condrieu evangelist out of me, triple yes. I had no idea what Viognier could be until I tasted this spicy, musky, smokey beauty. But it was the contrast between the expansive flavors that effortlessly maintained an intense focus that really got me excited. I rarely say this on The Vino File, but this bottle is worth the nearly $100 price tag.

2) 2010 Maison Bleue Marsanne Boushey Vineyard - Another white Rhone, but from Stateside this time. The almonds, the beautiful peach, and the sublime texture makes this wine intensely appealing. Add the winery's other outstanding wines in the last two years and you have yourself an up and comer that still offers outstanding value. Washington has a winner in this wine, and in Maison Bleue.

1) Henriot NV Blanc Souverain Brut - Yep, a Champagne takes my wine of the year. I don't drink enough of this stuff, and this is the bottle that set me straight. Apple fruit and pleasing bubbles yes, but a lot more. There is a hazelnut aspect to this wine, and just the right sense of creaminess. I lingered over this glass, and went on and on, just long enough to get off my bum and start adding Champagne to my regular buying (and drinking) habits. More than any other wine, this bottle changed my wine consumption habits. I dare you to resist it's appeal.

Some amazing wines, from a great year. Making the list brings back some great memories and yet definitely propels me with excitement into 2012. I would love to hear your most exciting wine of 2011 in the comments. In the meantime have a very Happy New Year!!

Merry Christmas To All

2011-12-23T08:28:00.001-08:00

Just a quick post today to wish you all a very merry Christmas (or whatever you may be celebrating this week). I genuinely hope that as 2011 winds to an end you find yourself surrounded by friends and family with a moment to relax and reflect, and certainly with some time to enjoy some good food and wine.

2011 for me will be remembered as the year I spent in San Francisco, the year the blog shifted down to a more manageable once-a-week endeavour, and the first year in a long time that the niece and nephew count held steady at 6. It was a polarized and therefore rather inefficient year in Washington, a second year of strangely cold grape ripening in the U.S, and the end to our troops in Iraq. Globally we saw a developing Euro crisis, and revolutions in the Middle East.

Its worth a moment to reflect as we start to look forward to 2012. For me it is worth a few celebrations (because you got through something, or because of accomplishments, both worth some joy!) It is worth a moment of planning or dreaming about what next year holds, and it is worth me telling you that I appreciate that you read and enjoy this blog. As I've always said, this is fun for me - and I genuinely appreciate that you share that experience.

So a quick toast, a sincere wish of holiday cheer, and a promise to be back one more time this year to share my most interesting wines of 2011. Now off to the market to get that horseradish for tomorrow's prime rib (it's an excuse for the unusual opening of a big California Cabernet tomorrow evening!!) Cheers!

A Quick Trip to Planet Bordeaux

2011-12-16T09:07:00.000-08:00

It is no wonder that Bordeaux as a category fights for the everyman attention in the United States. The general story an American consumer hears from Bordeaux involves intense auctions in Hong Kong, vitally important vintage variation, confusing implied quality dependent on the village name on the bottle, and the idea that Bordeaux means tannic red wines meant for a big hunk of beef. The irony is that all of these things CAN be true. But the flip-side gets lost in the sensationalism. I have found, in a couple of interactions with the marketing group Planet Bordeaux, that there is a simple and ultimately very pleasant way to skirt around these imposing generalizations. There are whole swaths of bottles of Bordeaux produced in less recognized vineyards that are categorized simply as Bordeaux, or Bordeaux Superieur. Still grown and vinified with tight standards, these wines don't demand the attention of their 'more important' cousins. This comes at a bit of a price; what do you potentially lose:

Not all of these wines are as high quality as the more specific regional AOC designated wines (Paulliac, Graves, etc.) but this is not always true

These wines generally do not age as long as the more specific regional AOC designated wines

The producers are certainly less well known or marketed, so it is more often the case that you are taking a chance

But what is to be gained by drinking Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur

These wines are fantastically affordable (usually under $20, sometimes closer to $10)

These wines can be drunk early, buy it tonight and drink it tonight

There are large quantities of these wines, new producers to explore any day of the week

These wines offer some great quality finds

There are whites, clairets, and reds to fit with a huge variety of foods and event

So the pros vastly outweigh the cons. Every time I explore this inexpensive category I am reminded that these are wonderful every day wines that more Americans can and should enjoy. They generally taste and feel like what you might expect from 'Bordeaux', therefore fitting a unique category in your wine exploration. And they won't break the bank.

During a recent tasting with Planet Bordeaux I was introduced to the following wines, all of which I can recommend, presented here in my order of preference:

Chateau de Bel 2009 Bordeaux Superieur - Smokey in the nose and on the palate, there is plenty of rich blackberry and plum to appeal to the fruit inspired folks. The tar and spice keep things nice, and the freshness to this wine keeps it from ever appearing 'gloppy' Delicious and impressive for the $16 price tag.

Chateau Lamothe Vincent 2009 Bordeaux - Fig, cedar, and tobacco invite the nose, and dark berries and earth lead to a lead like, minerally finish. A bit more classically Old World than the Bel, this is a deep and structured wine - and only $15!

Grand Vin de Reignac 2008 - You have read about Reignac wines on these pages before, and possibly heard about this star Chateau elsewhere. This is a wine that has often been blind tasted against the big boys and almost always held its own. The 2008 was a bit closed for me (these babies can take some bottle age) but the dusty hints of leather on the nose, nice oak notes on the palate, and firm tannins hint at a beautiful wine and another year of spectacular bargain.

Chateau de Parenchere 2010 Bordeaux Clairet - Bordeaux produces some wonderful rose wines, often a bit more serious than the more famous French roses from Provence. These wines are a deeper red, this one was bright cherry red, and the vibrant red fruits lean more towards ripe plums than you might expect. This wine was certainly vibrant but had more serious spice, even chocolate and earth, in the palate. Interesting for its refreshing qualities that juxtapose against its more serious qualities - and a wine that would be a blast to play with in interesting and unexpected food pairings (i.e. this could take some heft from the plate) The exciting thing about this wine is that if you generally like roses you will probably like this wine, and if you generally do not - this wine might surprise you. At $12 its worth the experimentation.

Finally we tasted the Chateau Larteau 2005 to get an idea of how these inexpensive wines can take a bit of age. There was a bit of sweet cherry to the nose and palate of this wine that surprised me, but also blueberries, sweet pipe tobacco, and some nice chalky tannins. This wine was taking its age well, but overall seemed less interesting and vibrant than the other wines. That said, it was good, and well worth the 10 BP it will cost you (shipping across the pond might be a hefty bill...) I'm not sure you can easily find this vintage in the US, but take this as a note - these wines can take some bottle age (not the 30 years of Lafitte, but if you like some tertiary development you can do this)

I can't reiterate enough how strongly I feel these wines are missing from most American's consideration. Be it the low price that does not inspire confidence, the aversion to Bordeaux as an overwhelming category, or the tendency to buy your everyday wine at the supermarket - ignoring Bordeaux is deciding to miss out. This winter take my heartfelt advice and try a few (you might just change your tune about Merlot in the meantime).

Things I Like

2011-12-09T11:45:00.000-08:00

Today's post is sort of like the old Oprah Christmas shows, only none of you are going to find the things I list here under your seat. As the holidays pass by in a blur I am the type that genuinely gets very excited for old traditions, new treats, and general good cheer. While thinking about things I wanted to write about on the 'ole blog, the list just kept growing. So see this as a wish list, or a recommendation list - whichever is least offensive to your sensibilities and join me in enjoying the next couple of weeks simply because it is a fun thing to do:

1) Sparkling rosé - It's fun, it's festive, and it is so damn good. Sparkling rosés come in all price ranges and instantly liven up a moment. They do well as aperitifs or as food accompaniments to early courses. You can find them made from Pinot Noir in California and Burgundy, or from grapes of Cava (Trepat and Garnacha) by going Spanish. I recommend, as an inexpensive option, the Freixnet Cordon Rosado Cava NV. The bright citrus flavors blend with red berry fruitiness, and ends dry for a tasty treat.

2) Saving for special bottles - I think it is important to find wines that you can drink on a regular basis without denting your grocery budget. I think it is also important to find producers you love, and splurge on their stuff occassionally for a dinner party, or special night at home. But lately I have also found it very exciting to set your eyes on a prize and save for it. I'm talking scouting for a 10th anniversary wine, or 21st birthday wine (don't waste it on the youth themselves, however!!) Online auctions offer some well-aged prizeworthy wines, that can be had at great prices (if you skip the La Tache). One auction that is running through the holidays is set to benefit a family in New York whose daughter has gone missing. Check out the details here.

3) Molasses Spice Cookies - I mean it. I have deep cravings for these chewy morsels, but have made myself only bake them (by the dozen) during December. I love the Cook's Illustrated recipe as they come out chewy and spicy - but I'll take them anyway I can get them.

4) Pinot Noir - There is something ethereal about Pinot Noir that just makes me a bit crazy for it. It seems elegant, and at the dinner table it is truly versatile. This is a must with holiday dinner parties, as dishes range from sweet to spicy, from rich to light, and they tend to get all jumbled into family style servings. The wonderful thing about Pinot is that it has such unique expressions depending on where it is from and how it is grown and handled in the cellar. A recent bargain (and alternate location to the usual) that I came across is The Crossings 2009 Pinot Noir Marlborough. This New Zealand Pinot is light and bright, with cherry, a bit of toasty wood, some potpurri spice and a brisk cranberry finish. It just seems Christmasy, and at under $20 is a bargain.

5) Kiki and Coco In Paris - I know, a children's book? But at my age I have several little girls to buy Christmas gifts for, and this book is the rare find that suits them all. It is a beautiful work of photography, with a story that has heart. I know you don't expect to find random book suggestions on The Vino File, but if you are buying gifts for a girl under 8, this is a sure bet.

6) Decorating with real greenery - I grew up in Oregon and can vouch that if you are worried about sustainability you do have options. Yes, there are large monocultured strip wastes of trees, but many are now farming organically, and blending their lots into established forests which are protected by their practices. And bringing in fresh boughs, wreaths, and trees makes a house warm and smell great. So unless you have a pine allergy, skimp on the gifts if you must and fill your house with fresh pine this December.

A little list of the things I like, the things that make my December a bit brighter. I wish you and yours a warm and joyfully holiday season as well.

Warm Wine for a Windy Winter

2011-12-02T09:22:00.000-08:00

The story: We had quite a little event here in Pasadena this week. Cold winds, pushed down through the canyons in the San Gabriel Mountains by a high pressure system, whipped us pretty good. With speeds up to 92 mph recorded, Pasadena was essentially at the epicenter of one of the worst wind storms Southern California has seen in years. While we escaped the devestating potentials of wildfires, we sat in our creaking houses as hundreds of trees fell across the city - smashing cars, houses, and apartments, tearing up sidewalks and streets, ripping down powerlines, and generally reminding us of our helplessness in the face of nature.

It was intimidating. It was humbling in its requirement for us to sit and wait. The damage would be what the damage would be. And it made me think of a few bigger, warmer wines I have had recently that sure would have made the long winter night pass by a little easier. As snow and wind and rain and cold surround us for the next couple of months - here are some perfect winter wines to keep you cozy inside.

The wines - Trinitas Petite Sirah 2006 Old Vine Lodi is a jet black inky wine with a ruby red rim. The nose is big, gamey, and brimming with black cherry and hints of menthol. It warms you through the sip with dark berries, licorice, cocoa dust, earth and a big tannic structure. The finish does not disappoint, is a bit candied, hints of pencil lead, and stays toasty for a long memory after going down. This is a big wine, as petite sirah and Lodi are apt to provide, but is balanced and tasty. Looks like they still have some Jeroboams left of this vintage (which would be a blast during a winter get together) but the later vintages have been said to be as good as 2006, so keep your eye out.

Nothing warms and calms the soul like a good Port. And nothing represents Port-style wines better than an authentic Porto from Porto Portugal. Made of the traditional Port grapes (Touriga Franca, Tinto Roriz, and a whole list of Tourigas and Tintos) the Fonseca Bin No. 27 First Reserve Porto is a big, warm, chocolatey glass of goodness. The vibrant purple juice shows dusty blueberries, and prunes, rather bright fruit and mocha, and a velvetty texture. A bit of booze belies the fortification, but that is to be expected. Around a fire, and after a meal this wine is sure to please and keep the chill away (or bearable).

The verdict: While winter can bring some difficult or even scary weather, it also offers a lovely alternative setting in which to switch your wine consuming gears. The recommended wines above are two great examples of wines to purchase over the next couple of months, but there is a whole slew of big, ripe, higher alcohol wines that can fit this bill. It is common these days among wine geeks to praise a sense of balance that lighter, earthier, more acidic wines can bring to a dinner table - and I agree. But I also think there is a place for all wines that knit their components together well (whatever the constitution of these components may be) and cold, windy days offer me (and you) an opportunity for a whole different category. Stay warm and enjoy!

Disclaimer - The Port was provided as a media sample with intent to review.

Practicing Thankfulness

2011-11-22T10:45:00.000-08:00

I have a friend at work who is obsessed with collecting Dove chocolate wrapper quotes. These are the 'uplifting' phrases that Dove puts on the inside of their small foil wrappers. You know those slightly vomit inducing sayings like 'Dance with your heart' or 'Joy begins with those you love.' I must admit that I am often torn between reading the sayings and imagining how the foil wrapper might feel on my old fillings. This is just my cynicism, and I figure teasing her mercilessly about my perception of how empty these phrases are (considering she finds great pleasure in taunting me with them) is a better alternative to capping in my natural born angst.

So you can imagine when my sister told me that she was going to spend this holiday season 'diligently practicing thankfulness' my eyes involuntarily rolled. But then whilst trying to sleep a few days later I realized how productive that could actually be. I have so much to be thankful for in this life I have carved out, there is no reason not to spend some time dwelling on these things. I never really understood why people saw the holidays as stressful, as they were always full of joy and good things for me, but I can certainly take some time to put energy into the act of being thankful. It is humbling, it is positive, and I am going to do it. So here in no particular order are the things I am thankful for today:

Security - This is not an easy time for a lot of people, be it the world economy, the place they were born, disruptions in relationships, whatever it is. I am fortunate to be in a place where I feel secure in my job, secure in my relationship, safe in my neighborhood. Today I will remind myself that these are not things to take lately. I am thankful that I go to sleep each night with very few necessary worries.

Friends - Lets face it, work is not always fun, keeping a house is not always easy, even putting energy into friendships can be frustrating. But that investment in others proves to come back tenfold. To have people in your life that know what you are up to, and care, is really incredible. It is those moments with good friends that really make all of the other 'stuff' we have to do worth it. I am thankful today for so many good people in my life.

Family - I know, I know, this list is entirely predictable. But my thankfulness for my family is not just in the fact that they are wonderful. It is in the idea that they have decided that we will be a supporting unit no matter what twists and turns life brings. While the 'problems' my family may face could seem mundane and insignificant to some, for us they have been real. And through everything there has been this commitment to relationship that has prevailed, even flourished. I am thankful to have been born into a group of people that value each other that much.

Finally, with an eye towards ending this diary-like ramble - I am thankful for the sure pleasure that writing this blog has added to my life. It really has enhanced my days in ways I didn't imagine when I started. So I will be toasting these things with the following carefully selected wines this Thursday (well Wednesday night actually for me, but lets pretend) I know there are a million articles and posts out there on how and what to pair with your Thanksgiving dinner. I've avoided it in the past just for that reason. But in case you are interested, or want to try these wines at a later date, here they are. My rules (self-imposed but carefully crafted) are 1) I choose to drink American wine with what feels to me a uniquely American feast 2) Needs to be festive 3) Needs to be reasonably priced 4) Needs to have good acidity to stand up to all the food.

With appetizers - Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Blancs While not the most complex domestic sparkler, I go back to this wine for parties time and time again. It is refreshing, it is crisp, it sparkles.... If it is a bit too boring for you make a Classic Champagne Cocktail by dropping a sugar cube in your flute, adding 2-3 drops of bitters, and then topping with the sparkling wine - delicious.

With the smorgasboard - Vergari 2007 Marin County Pinot Noir I've written about David Vergari's wines before, but because I truly love them I've saved this one for the Thanksgiving table. It has some pretty real earthy, minerally aromas and tastes going on, but enough ruby fruit to balance it out. I can't wait to drink this with turkey.

Chronicle Wines 2006 Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel Zinfandel is a quintessential American grape (well, we made it what it is anyway) but I want one that is not too bomby, appropriately structured, but not overwhelming. This bottle accomplishes such a wish with finesse, but maintains enough fruit to not be overly nuanced for the setting.

With the pies - I had a bottle of Ridge Old School Zinfandel 2007 from Dry Creek Valley a few months back and was shocked as I did not expect the residual sugar and almost port-like characteristics it presented. Opened in the wrong setting I did not enjoy it. But I think it will go beautifully with after dinner desserts and enjoying the fire, as it has great acidity and thick sweet fruit and spice. This wine was made for American Thanksgiving cheese, dessert, or conversation. I can't wait.

That's it, a bit of California, a bit of Washington, good food, good friends, and a thankful heart. Here is hoping your holiday is delightful, and remember to remember what is good in your life!!

PSMIOFF 1.04: Rhoning in Washington

2011-11-16T07:25:00.000-08:00

A quick refresher - the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit is a wine tasting group I started simply as a place to enjoy great company, evaluate wines in a variety of categories, and mix those things together in a monthly meeting that has proven to be loads of fun. Another reminder, ever since my trip to Walla Walla for the Wine Blogger's Conference in 2010 I am a huge advocate and generally in love with Washington wine. I love the obviously New World fruit, with the distinctly Washington sense of acidity when the fruit is carefully grown on the East side of the beautiful Cascade mountains. Washington built its reputation on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and has done extraordinarily well with Riesling as well. But the momentum more recently has been in Syrah, and possibly in other Rhone varietals. For this reason, and because the slip of paper pulled out of the hat at the end of PSMIOFF 1.03 said so, we spent this month exploring the Rhone bottles from Washington.

The results were not mixed, although some bottles were better than others. Generally speaking each wine had its merit, each wine showed a rather good value, and each wine continued my excitement towards what Washington has to offer. I encourage an exploration of Washington Rhones through any of these wines, presented here in my order of preference:

Dunham Cellars Syrah 2006 - Cherry pie, flowers and a hint of smoke on the nose lead to a juicy, peppery, and downright beautiful palate. The acid does not disappoint and lends an elegance to this full-bodied beauty that made it the wine of the night for me.

Maison Bleue Petite Joie Marsanne 2010 - Possibly unfair in that this was the only white wine present, this wine is spectacular. Quince, pear and marzipan make up the downright awesome nose. The palate is crisp, with citrus, pineapple and white flowers presenting one of the most delicious whites I have had in months. I raved about Maison Bleue before, and there ability to impress continues.

Owen Roe Sinister Hand 2009 - Mostly grenache, with a dollop of syrah and traces of counoise and mourvedre, this wine had blueberries and potpurri Christmas spices on the nose. Sweet vanilla and grapey juice up front lead to a nicely structure finish with some tart cranberries. Possibly because this wine was distinct from the syrah dominated tasting, and partly because the spice and cranberry were both appealing and refreshing, this wine was one of my favorites.

A tie for 4th between Doyenne Syrah 2007 and Board Track Racer Cellars 2008 Cab/Syrah blend 'The Vincent' The Doyenne had a chalky, dusty, sweet nose of blackberry liquer, and a rich palate of coffee, ripe berry cobler, and a hint of cough syrup. This wine settled down throughout the night and while remaining rich and ripe was delicious and fairly indicative of the good syrahs I have tasted from Washington. The Board Track 'The Vincent' was more red fruit focused and had some bramble, pepper, and a great earthiness. The finish was spicy, with bright acid to hold it all together.

Next up, and we are still in very good territory here albeit my fifth favorite wine - K Vintners Motor City Kitty 2008 Syrah. Charles Smith is pretty well known for his rock star syrahs, and while a bit heavy on the juicy grappiness for me here, the floral and earth aspects were appealing. This wine also calmed down a bit after a few hours and was lovely to drink, also a great price point for getting to try K Vintners legendary stuff.

Last, and yes in this case least, someone snuck in a bottle of Columbia Crest 2007 Syrah. It is amazing to taste this large production stuff in the middle of all of these careful, small lot, well sourced wines. This wine, in this context, was smokey and sulphury, and tasted simply of slightly alcoholic blueberry juice. I am a fan of a lot of what Columbia Crest does, but this was not very pleasant.

A great tour through some upcoming and established Washington Rhone stars, only cements the region in my mind as on of the U.S. greatest success in winemaking. While I imagine it will be a long time before the Wine Blogger's Conference returns, I am still excited by what is happening in Eastern Washington and encourage you to encourage your local wine stores to stock more Washington Rhones.

Experiencing Harvest at Michel-Schlumberger

2011-11-07T21:15:00.000-08:00

I feel lucky to have the parents that I have. I know a lot of people feel that way (and a lot don't), and it is possible that the 'nurture' part of a relatively peaceful and very loving childhood sort of quietly guides us into those feelings, but never the less I am thankful for my mom and dad. While maintaining a true individuality, and unique set of interests, they are genuinely open to new experiences, and for the most part express a true interest in the interests of their adult children (although they did speak Bill O'Reilly a couple of times recently, which concerns me....)

Neither of them are big wine drinkers (Dad more than Mom, but still not in a major way) and yet both of them happily joined me for a vineyard walk and winery tour of Michel-Schlumberger on our recent weekend in Healdsburg. Possibly enticed by the promised sandwich stop at Dry Creek General Store, but more likely just wanting to spend some time with their sons, they came with interest and excitement.

Michel-Schlumberger was a perfect spot for such an excursion, with plenty to interest the uber-geek and beauty and fascinating farming intention to convince the less-interested, not to mention some tastings of delicious and obviously carefully crafted wines. The property is beautiful, and the focus on sustainable practices is apparent throughout. Beehives buzz with activity near Wine Creek (one of only 4 creeks in Sonoma County that still sustains salmon spawning). Cover crops keep the dirt in the vineyard, out of the creek, and the wandering sheep keep the cover crop 'mowed down'. 15 different varietals are carefully being watched for their response to the hundreds of microclimates the hilly property provides. Everything is picked and fermented in small lots, allowing maximum freedom for the winemaker to craft his blends. It is an intentional place, both in the vineyard and in the family-like atmosphere of the 27 employees (including a directly hired vineyard crew.) While we were walking through the winery itself, the employees of Michel-Schlumberger were breaking out their potluck to celebrate the end of harvest. With just a few tons of Cabernet still hanging in the vineyards the picking and crushing were almost done, and the genuine joy and pride of the teams' work was being celebrated.

The wines we tasted also had an intentionality to them that was incredibly appealing. A delicious Pinot Blanc was refreshing and crisp, with enough fruit in the nose to entice, and enough interest on the palate to keep you going back. The Le Sage Merlot was spectacular, obvious notes of cherry and chocolate identify the varietal, but the acidity and florality of the palate provide a delicate beauty. Their Zinfandel also seems to be bursting with fruit, but fresh fruit. Their vineyard and vinification practices avoiding any gloppy, bombastic unpleasantness. And finally we tasted a 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, that while certainly displaying retracted fruit, had a striking freshness to the color, and ample tannic structure to continue. The leather and smoke were advancing in a delicious way, and the wine was certainly standing the test of time.

This is the type of winery that gets me excited. It is authentic, it is slightly idealistic, and it is a group of people who come together to form a family around their endeavour. They are striving to do things right by their product, by their label, by the land they are responsible for, and by their consumers. The results are delicious, distinct, and affordable. So in their idealism they are succeeding, which is precisely what I want to experience in both drinking a wine, or when introducing non-vinophiles to a beautiful afternoon in Sonoma.

Rules Are Binding

2011-11-03T07:00:00.000-07:00

The story: I spent the weekend in Sonoma this weekend and had an amazing time (a story or two on some experiences are forthcoming.) Every time I'm in Sonoma I'm reminded at how much I internally feel that I prefer Sonoma to Napa. This may be an interesting way to start a post dedicated to two very nice Napa wines, but it is just true. I feel that I get more bang for my buck, I feel that the people and farms seem more genuine which makes me feel more genuinely attracted to the wines, and I feel that culturally I'm just more comfortable in Sonoma. But then two wines like those below come along and remind me that there are exceptions to every rule I think applies. Just when I feel sure that I've got something figured out, the twist presents itself. I'm greatful that I had these wines recently to remind me that Napa has wines at all price points that are approchable, interesting, and appealing. To remind me that while I often prefer and idealize small-lot wines that represent the extremes of the unique vineyard in which they are grown, wines that represent the careful hand of the winemaker, there are some large production wines that simply taste good, and present a value that makes me feel good. These are two of those wines that are widely available, of a rather high quality, and represent exactly what they are meant to represent. Score 1 for Napa, and while I never thought I would say this, score 1 for carefully sourced large production with consistency....

The wines: The 2008 Franciscan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a dark purple and black, and gives of aromas of thick fig and plum sauce with a bit of caramelly, toasty oak. A very typical rich Napa Cabernet nose, and really very appealing. The palate offers waves of cassis and black cherry, with a bit of oakiness through the mid-palate that leads to an earthy and rather tightly structured finish.

The 2007 Franciscan Napa Valley Merlot is a bit lighter, but also presents as a rather dark purple. It's nose is reluctant, but over time offers creamy chocolate, cherry, and slightly woody notes. The juice tastes of ripe plums and dry earth with hints of black olive. The tannins are a bit more relaxed than its younger cousin, and yet the acidity holds true and makes it drinkable well past the first few sips.

The verdict: If this were a competition then the Cabernet would win by a hair, but both of these wines were delicious, structured, and are easily recommended. These are wines that you probably won't find nationally at your supermarket, but will find nationally at your large wine retailers and each of these bottles will generally be under $20. Just when I think I've set a rule for myself I realize that, especially with wine, I'm only limiting my own experience.

These wines were provided as samples with intent to review

Eating My Words, err Half of Them

2011-10-26T07:16:00.000-07:00

The story: A couple of months ago I stated that Pinot Grigio is boring. My post was part grumpiness manifested, part exactly how I feel everytime I drink the stuff, and a pinch of feeling conflict about not letting people know about some of the less than stellar wine I encounter while writing this blog. Mix it all together and you got my post, which got a couple of readers frustrated. They weren't mad, just did not agree that Pinot Grigio is boring. One in particular challenged me to taste three wines of their chosing from the Trentino-Alto Adige/Suditrol region in Italy, arguing that I would come away excited about the fresh, crisp, aromatic whites that Pinot Grigio results in here. Naturally I agreed, never one to back down from a boozey challenge, and so the experiment was underway.

The wines showed up and were tasted, and the examples were:

Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Suditrol Alto Adige 2010 - Pale straw with a nose of apple, chalk, and a hint of sugar. The palate is of ripe green pears, rather juicy with a subtle minerality streak throughout. It feels a bit flabby on the end, is dry despite the sweetness on the nose, but leaves a pleasing fruity finish that lingers.

Valle Isarco Pinot Grigio Suditrol-Eisacktaler Alto Adige 2009 - A bit higher in alcohol, this juice appeared a bit more viscous and golden in the glass. The nose was quite fruity, apples, pears, orchard fruits, but came across a bit simple. The taste was of ripe golden apples up front, with a juicy transition to grapefruit zest and a rather intense minerality. The flavors were consistent and big in this bottle of PG.

Tramin 'Unterebner' Suditrol Alto Adige Pinot Grigio 2009 - Also golden in color with apples and pears on the nose. This wine had a distinct sense of apple skins that added a pleasant dimension to the nose. A similar taste profile of apple juice blended with a deeper floral tone, and a consistent streak of bitter minerality to take the wine through the finish. This wine had a better sense of acid through the finish, suggesting it would taste great with an afternoon salad.

The verdict: These wines looked, smelled, and tasted rather consistent. I like this. It suggests a region that wants to maintain its sense of what to do with this grape. And I will admit, while none of these wines lit me on fire, I can not rightly call them boring. There is appeal here, there is a style here, there is connection to where the grapes are grown in these bottles. I will humble myself slightly to say that while I may not prefer the flavors that Pinot Grigio is bringing, when done with care, as these wines clearly are, it does not always produce a boring wine. If in the past you have thought yourself a bit of an Italian Pinot Grigio fan, I can without reservation suggest the wines of the Suditrol. Well priced (all under $23) nicely structured, and consistent with a sense of place I will eat half my words with a glass of any of these wines.

Disclaimer: These wines were provided as samples with intent to review.

PSMIOFF 1.03 - Sparkling Wine

2011-10-18T06:15:00.000-07:00

Another edition of the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit is in the proverbial bag. The theme for September was sparkling wine, any category, any sweetness level, from any region. We were excited to try and break this category free from the 'celebratory' bonds that bind it, and I think we accomplished this. After a brief lesson on the typical methods of dissolving beautiful bubbles into our otherwise still wines we set into a long night of evaluation and elation. The wines, in order of my ranking, were as follow:

1. Henriot Blanc Souverain NV - Surprise, surprise - a true Champagne stole the show. Showing a rather rich and complex style, this wine stunned with apple and hazelnuts, intense minerality, and a bit of a smokey and very complex finish. I kept going back to this wine and thought it truly was worth the $38 price tag. For me this is a wine that clearly shows how Champagne can be mesmerizing.

2. Graham Beck NV Brut - I did not expect South Africa to show its head at this tasting, let alone bring such quality at such value. At south of $16 this dry sparkler, made of the traditional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, was very floral with apple and a dry honey tone that was delicious. Rivals a first place finish based on the supreme value that this bottle offers. While, not as good as the Henriot, this is probably my favorite find of the night and my biggest recommendation for you to seek out.

3. Domaine J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux Brut NV - From the South of France (near Languedoc) this wine is primarily Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Also a value at approximately $12, the nose is more citrus and hints at sweet pastry with its yeasty indications. A very nice wine for the price, if not stunning, for those inclined to drink bubbles regularly (and you should be) this is a great option.

4. Cerdon Renardat-Fache Bugey - From a rather obscure region in Eastern France, comes this rather unique sparkling rose wine. Made from 100% gamay, the first fermentation is stopped allowing a bit of sugar to remain. Since the yeast is not dead, a second fermentation occurs under pressure causing the wine to sparkle, or bubble, or however you prefer to refer. The result is a sweet, creamy wine with a very fine mousse that smells of strawberry candy and tastes of watermelon. It is very fun to drink and very pleasant, and yet rather simple. However, many would like this wine, and rightly so. It would make a great and surprising aperitif to start off a dinner party, and at 8% abv wouldn't get the night off on the wrong foot.

5. Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva - A wine I have had several times and always found to be a good value, this simple Cava brings exactly what you should expect. A bit of citrus and pineapple give way to a firm and mineral driven palate that is cleansing and crisp. Nothing spectacular, but nothing off putting, this $7 often gets touted as a 'Best Buy Value' and is a great option for large groups, or mimosas.

6. Paringa Sparkling Shiraz 2008 - Thrown in as a shocker, this certainly was. It smelled of grape soda and mint and drank of coffee, brown sugar, plum sauce and cough syrup. This wine might have been nice if it was fermented dry and kept still. Instead as an awkward and bombastic sweet sparkler it did not work. Certainly a conversation starter, but not something I can rightly recommend, nor in my lack of imagination find an appropriate setting for. Had it been dry it might have had some appeal, but as is - a major pass.

The overarching consensus was that sparkling wine is underrepresented in most people's regular drinking habits. There is a lot of diversity and lots of value to be found in these wines that can be served as before dinner drinks, with food, with dessert, or on their own for an afternoon happy hour. I am of the mindset that sparkling wines may be a bi-annual category for PSMIOFF, and I know no one who attends will be disappointed.

Perspective is Informed by Experience

2011-10-14T09:15:00.000-07:00

The story: I live a lot of my life on the road, due to my day job. Some might say too much of my life but I guess it is just a matter of perspective. Whereas there are nights in hotels during which I would trade anything to sleep in my own bed, there are also adventures in exploring great new cities (on someone else's dime). While there are mid-week meals eaten alone in quiet restaurants during which I miss my family, there is also an intensity to my weekend time with them that eliminates any sense of taking them for granted. I often tell people what my schedule is like and get a negative reaction in response. "How can you stand that?" Or "I could never stay in a hotel three nights a week." In the end I find I have less patience these days with these types of blanket statements based partly on inexperience. My family has been diligent to make this work for us, and I rather enjoy both my career and my family time.

I find the same sort of across the board generalization to happen in wine. People make up their mind about what they do and don't like, what they will and won't drink, based on a relatively limited exposure to what is actually available. It seems that no other grape gets this treatment more frequently than Chardonnay. I can see how the commonness of the grape, or the rather outgoing personality of the grape may rub some the wrong way, but I bristle when I hear folks say "I can't stand Chardonnay," or "I have never found a Chardonnay I enjoy." If you don't wish to spend your money or time on Chardonnay find, but you should at least recognize that the wide diversity in the varietal is enough that we could probably find one you enjoy if we just looked. An unwillingness to be open to life's variety, is a willingness to miss out on surprise.

The wine: I recently came across a Chardonnay that changed my perspective about what a balanced application of light oak can truly due (and yes I am usually less inclined to drink oaky Chardonnay). The 2009 Domaine de Deux Roches St. Veran Rives de Longsault shines a rich golden yellow in the glass. It offers a nose of golden apple, a touch of oak, and a light herbaceousness. The elements wrap together so that none stands out in a way that can not necessarily be described but is obvious when enjoying the fresh aromas of this wine. The wine is medium bodied and lithe across the palate, and yet it retains a richness throughout. The golden apple prevails, with hints of malolactic flavors and a persistent citrus and minerality that carries the wine from front to back. The finish is everlasting, a pleasant bitterness rounded out by a great sense of almonds.

The verdict: Don't get me wrong, this wine is obviously Chardonnay from appearance, to aroma, to taste. And yet it was a completely different Chardonnay experience than I had previously had. Somewhere between its Macon roots and its unapologetic spicing with a bit of barrique, this wine finds a middle ground that absolutely does it for me. At $19.95 I was also more than happy to sing its praises. Why such a pleasing wine got me thinking about the naysayers who miss out on life, well I guess that is just where my soul was today.....

Post 200: A Reflection

2011-09-26T18:33:00.000-07:00

Huh, I sat down to write a different post and realized that this is my 200th post on The Vino File. I'm not sure what it means to me, but I can't let the moment pass without a bit of reflection. What started as a whim, a desire to understand wine and develop a creative outlet along the way, has turned into a part of my life that I really cherish. This little insignificant blog has had a profound impact on how I spend my freetime and as Danny will attest, my money. It has brought me to some beautiful locations, and some sweaty drunken disastrous events. It has introduced me to people who have become true friends, and ran me by some people that I probably don't want to have anything to do with. It has served as a diary of my days, and a sounding board for my thoughts. Along the way it has made strangers mad, received traffic from some places that I didn't even know they sold wine, and hopefully made some family members laugh. I've been told I write well, and I've been told I have no idea what I'm talking about. I've posted daily, and I've gone two weeks without a peep.

(2 candles representing 100 posts each, peace)

Realistically it is hard for me to say how the decision to start the damn thing has changed my life, as many of the pathways along the way seem inevitable in retrospect. I haven't changed careers, I haven't made much money, I still care too much what other people think, and yet its affect has been profound.

As for where it goes in the future I also don't know. I have slowed down the posting considerably, although not because I am less interested in wine writing, or the overall exploration of wine. Rather I don't feel the compulsion to get posts out or to maintain a certain level of traffic. And yet this relaxation into the process has made it even more enjoyable, and more something I am certain to continue.

I have a small time white Burgundy that I was going to write about tonight, and it will be forthcoming, but today I am just going to celebrate what this blog has always been about, a little self indulgent adventure that is hopefully entertaining along the way.

One Last One for the Summer

2011-09-13T06:40:00.000-07:00

The story: It cooled down around here this weekend, finally. Every year I have two giant reminders that Summer is over and Fall has begun. One day in early September I wake to a driveway ankle deep in tiny little tree branches and leaves that stick to your shoes. Dropped by ever increasing families of squirrels there must be something in that god damned tree that goes to seed this time of year, and no amount of sweeping is going to keep the backyard clean. It is a hopeless mess for a good three weeks, but a reminder that the season is changing. The second is my neighbor who goes ballistic for football (but never in a happy way) For the life of me I can't coordinate his screaming with any specific events, so I'm not yet sure which teams he likes and which he hates, but there is some passion there for sure. It makes for some Sundays during which I have to remind myself that an incomplete pass is equivalent to the death of a pet for some. I don't have to understand.

The transition to Fall invariably makes me start to pull back out some Zinfandel. I'm not much for drinking Zinfandel with BBQ during the summer, for many of the same reasons that I just can't listen to The Dave Matthews Band (it is not because they aren't talented musicians with catchy riffs, more of a personal need to buck the establishment) But I do find California's unique speciality to be a perfect wine for evenings in which I can still eat outside, but might need a big, fruity, warming red to cut the slight chill. As long as I can keep the leaves out of my glass, I find it to be a perfect time of year for this particular varietal.

The wine: The 2008 St. Francis Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma County is a dark translucent garnet color. It has a nice nose of black cherry, blackberries, a dusting of spice, some oak char, and a hint of the 15.5% abv alcohol (although not as much as to make it offensive). The palate is also filled with dark fruit, mostly berries up front, a bit of a hollowness in the transition, and then cola, ripe fruit, and classic Zin spice on the pleasantly sweet and lengthy finish. While it is a bit jammy, the wine holds itself together and displays classic California Zinfandel characteristics.

The verdict: This is exactly the type of Zinfandel I want to drink while dodging squirrel shrapnel and pigskin inspired outbursts on a beautiful L.A. Fall evening. It is big, and it is rather ripe, but there is a sense of balance and refinement that makes it decidedly drinkable. The previous vintage is still for sale, pending release of this bottle. Marked at $22 through the winery, I find this to be exactly in line with the expectations you can have for this wine. So whether lamenting the close of the Summer of 2011, or even if finding yourself out of control with emotions over the Seahawks, I recommend searching out a St. Francis Zinfandel. It is a perfect compliment to this time of year.

This wine was provided as a media sample with intent to review.

PSMIOFF v. 1.02 - Cabernet Franc

2011-09-06T06:30:00.000-07:00

The second meeting of the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit is in the bag. The theme was simple (not the grape, the theme) - Cabernet Franc, bring a bottle that is varietally labeled or can be taken to be at least 75% Cab Franc. This left a wide range of wines available to the attendees, and a wide range indeed made an appearance.

Cab Franc primer - while the genetic parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc is often less valued as it can be softer, less structured, and even a bit harder to grow. Many Cab Franc detractors complain about the 'green' aromas and flavors that can be present, while its admirers often look for this characteristic a bit. Overwhelming 'greenness' is rarely

praised, however, and generally a sign of the fruit not being picked at appropriate ripeness. Interestingly Cabernet Franc from Napa Valley was the most expensive, by ton, varietal purchased in the 2010 harvest. Cabernet Franc is also a major part of one of the world's most famous (and expensive) wines - Chateau Cheval Blanc.

Overall a fantastic lineup of wines made their way to this meeting, and of a diverse style. Any of these wines I could recommend, but alas everyone likes a winner. Listed below, in order of my ranking, I present the Cab Francs for the evening:

2007 Selvagrossa Poveriano - An Italian Cab Franc? Yes, and a great one. With a nose of dark berries and salted meat and a flavor profile of blueberries and Christmas potpourri this wine surprised and delighted. A great mix of Old World sensibility and New World fruit made this my favorite wine of the night.

2008 Dom. Grosbois Chinon - I'm a sucker for Chinon and this violet and green leaves over red raspberry nose got me excited. The palate also displayed red raspberry, licorice, and hints o

f baking spice. Throw in a refreshing dose of acid and you have an easy drinking but beautiful winner.

2007 Fielding Hills Cabernet Franc - Ah, a domestic Cabernet Franc that showed what Washington is doing with this grape. Completely different in style from the first two bottles, this wine was full of ripe blueberries, creamy vanilla, coffee and herbs. This wine carries a hefty 15%+ abv and had a bit of heat to the nose, but the palate was perfectly balanced by the telltale Washington acidity and tannic structure. Delicious and ripe this wine came through for the good ole' USA.

2007 Vinum Cellars The Scrapper - A 100% Cabernet Franc from El Dorado County, this is a big boy. The berry aromas are dark and masked by a bit of alcoholic heat, but also mixed with a distinct florality that was really nice. There is a lot happening in the flavors of this wine with dark fruits, vanilla, an earthy coffee ground aspect and some slightly awkward prickly tannin

s. This wine was also surprisingly delicious, and as the heat blew off over the night it turned into a wine I would recommend and purchase again.

2009 Ch. Soucherie Anjoy Vendages a' la Main - This wine came in last for me because the nose was a bit too musty, a bit too green. With raspberry fruit overlaid by hints of marijuana and mint, this nose would put many off and seemed a bit out of whack. The palate was more appealing with sour raspberry, and hints of spice and earth. There was a bitterness to the tannins that was not off putting, but certainly interesting, and the wine came off as very dry with a bit of a blunted finish. This wine was, for me, drinkable and even had elements of being pleasant, but overall it did not come together and stood a long way from the rest of the bunch.

Cabernet Franc seems to be a bit polarizing, in that it has its die hard devotees and the rest of the world seems to just overlook it. This tasting cemented for me that there is a diversity in offerings from the is grape, from around the world, and many of them are high quality, delicious wines at prices below some of the more popular varietals (just for reference all five wines retailed for between $19.95, and $30). I encourage you to try Cabernet Franc the next time you are at the wine shop or a restaurant.

Pinot Griogio is Boring, and So Are Bad Reviews

2011-08-29T06:30:00.000-07:00

The story: In high school debate we were taught to find a way to defend or refute almost any idea. As long as your reasoning is well thought out, and your defenses are sound then you have the chance to win a debate no matter which side you are required to take up. Unfortunately I've found a few ideas in my wine exploration that I am having a hard time refuting.

- Pinot Grigio can be really boring
- Some wine bloggers skip posting negative reviews because they don't want to stop the flow of free goods

Point 1 just keeps proving itself true. I can't find evidence or an argument to the contrary (although I am WIDE open to some, if you can point me in that direction) Loads of this stuff comes out of California and Italy and just never really excites me. I find it too often boring, simple, and often even lacking much flavor at all.

Point 2 may be unfair. I have found many honest reviews of wines that bloggers find lackluster, but they are rarely come right out and call it a major pass. Now I have heard, and believed, the defence that there is not really a readership for which wines a consumer should not buy. I agree, this does not really make for inspirational blog browsing, but I do think there is a place for calibration when a wine reviewer indicates which wines are not of a decent quality or interest to them. This will actually continue to allow their readers to understand the unique point of view that the reviewer brings to their blog.

In attempt to prove my point in debate 1, and excuse myself from the broad brush of debate 2 - here we go:

The wine: The Attems Pinot Grigio 2010 comes from Venezia Giulia in Italy. It is a rather peachy gold with hints of rose in the glass. The nose is primarily pear and hints of banana, with a hairspray like alcohol component. This does not result in a 'heat' aspect to the nose, it is not like the alcohol is out of whack here, just a bit of acetone. Across the palate the Pinot Griogio provides a 7-Up like citrus component and more golden pear. From that point it drops off rapidly into a watery finish with a kick of minerality.

The verdict: Pinot Griogio continues to be boring. There was nothing interesting going on in this wine, and while the upfront fruit was pleasant enough this wine was far from an appropriate price point at $19. And yes, this wine was a sample and I will sleep just fine tonight knowing I said something negative about it. You should not buy this.

I rest my case.

This wine was provided as a sample with intent to review.

No Debate Needed

2011-08-25T06:30:00.000-07:00

The story: There is a supposed debate occurring on the merits of different styles of Chardonnay. While I am convinced it is really only a 'debate' among the ultra-geeks who like to discuss wine way too much (myself included) the debate is aimed at the influence of oak in California's success with Chardonnay. Some would argue that the smokey, toasty, creme brulee bombs that have driven a specific category of the grape are unworthy manipulations, and there is something supremely righteous about a more pure expression of the fruit itself. This barrel influence only masks what nature does in the vineyard, whereas Chardonnay fermented in neutral barrels or better yet, in stainless steel, allow the true character of Chardonnay to shine. And it has to be said that this argument has resulted in more releases of 'naked' Chardonnay.

I declare today here on The Vino File that this does not need to be a debate at all. I say we can drink all styles of Chardonnay as long as they maintain a sense of balance, a perspective that is pleasing to your nose and palate, and an appropriate place in the environment in which you are enjoying the wine. It is true that excessive oak influence is unpleasant to me, a sign of laziness in the direction of the wine, and rather unwelcome. But so is a boring or astringent unoaked Chardonnay. The discussion, for me, is not on the merits of any given style, but on the quality and appeal of any given bottle of wine.

The wine: The Foley 2009 Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 'Steel' is a fully ripe expression of the grape and holds the typical alcohol percentage (for the area) of 14.3% by volume. It is a pale straw color with beautifully effusive aromas of golden apple, banana, brioche, and mango. The palate is rather juicy showing apple and pineapple fruit flavors and a rich full body, despite fermentation in 100% stainless steel and 0% malolactic. There is a nice dash of minerality to the finish of this wine, and just enough acid to avoid any sense of flabbiness.
The verdict: Not a spectacular wine by any means, but a tasty and structured example of what untouched Chardonnay can be. While the good and the bad of oak influence can be discussed ad nauseum, I would rather get nice examples of each from major areas of Chardonnay production and enjoy, and this is a perfect sample from Sta. Rita Hills. At $30 asking retail it may be a bit steep for what you get, but on the other hand it has the fruit and the unique expression that may fall right in your wheelhouse. If you are one who thinks you do not like California Chardonnay because of the butterscotch, the vanilla, or the smoke then this bottle is certainly worth your attention.

This wine was provided as a sample with intent to review.

Exciting New Finds at Rhone Rangers L.A.

2011-08-17T07:00:00.000-07:00

I'm guessing at this point it is abundantly clear that I love Rhone wines. Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache (et le Blanc), Counoise, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne - need I go on? Rhone Rangers, a non-profit organization that promotes American Rhone varietal wines, recognizes 22 grapes to be included in the Rhone category. The sheer diversity of options, the range of styles and flavors, and the particularly nice price points (in comparison to America's top Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, etc.) have made me a deeply committed Rhonehound. Annually the Rhone Rangers come to L.A. and put on a great tasting of their wares. Dominated primarily by Paso Robles wineries, both due to proximity and the fact that Paso is a stellar region for growing Rhone grapes, I have written about many of the wineries at this tasting in the past (since I love Paso) So this year I focused on wineries that I was not as familiar with. What follows are two wineries, one from Sonoma and one from Washington State that are doing outstanding things with Rhone grapes. Tasting through the wines of these two wineries alone will give you insight into the breadth and quality that this category of wines can bring. Check them out.

Wind Gap Wines - Pax Mahle is not new to the California Rhone scene, but having left Pax wines a couple years back one could argue that the Wind Gap label is relatively new. And while the label does not focus solely on Rhone grapes, it was the Northern California Syrahs at this tasting that got me so excited. Pouring the 2008 Sonoma Coast Syrah, the 2008 Griffin's Lair Syrah, and the 2009 Griffin's Lair Syrah, Wind Gap showed a consistent style. This style is Syrah of deep complexity, and an overwhelming tendency towards cold-climate characteristics. While the Griffin's Lair wines have plenty of fruit and lots of depth, all 3 wines remained nuanced, a bit wound up, with highlights of bramble and earth, and a brightness that I don't always get from California Syrah. These are the types of Syrahs that get me excited, as they straddle the clearly sunny fruit of California, but show an elegance, a finesse, and an attention to quality that proves to me that we can make the best wine in the world here. This is an exciting label, and I hear widely that their Pinot, Cabernet, and Chardonnays are also outstanding - worth a follow.

Maison Bleue Winery is also a relatively new winery out of the Yakima Valley in Washington. Jon Martinez, incidentally a former dentist, moved to Prosser from Kansas City specifically to produce Rhone wines from some of Washington's greatest vineyards. This winery also showed a consistency of style across their wines; a light touch, a subtlety, a sense of balance that permeates the entire production. For me the most exciting wines that Jon and his wife Amy are producing are the white wines. Sharing a Viognier, a Roussanne, and a 100% Marsanne, one can not help but notice the consistent beauty of the aromatics in this wine. In particular the Marsanne was spectacular - nuts, honey, herbs, flowers, and gorgeous melon make this one of the more enticing 'sniff's' I have had this year. Then the layers of flavors, including a beautiful minerality, elevate the palate to great places. The winery is also putting out consistent Syrah, Grenache, and red Rhone blends that display the same attention to producing amazing quality wines, using time tested techniques with beautiful New World fruit.

Both of these wineries excite me because they are doing exactly what I love to see in American wine. When you can smell, feel, and taste that these are wines from the vineyards, soil, sun, and people of the U.S. and yet the wines uphold some proven traditions of quality winemaking (and yes these are often borrowed from the Old World) then you are getting the best of what we have to offer. Maison Bleue and Wind Gap are right in this wheelhouse, and I am thrilled to have come across these beautiful American Rhones.

Philanthropy You Can Taste

2011-08-12T14:00:00.000-07:00

The story: There are many organizations out there that use wine sales to further their philanthropic ventures. These vary from partial donations of each wine sold, to charity-driven auctions, to extravagant wine tasting galas that donate proceeds to a good cause. While it is a common practice in fundraising circles to give the gifter something in return for their gift, it is important to me that in these cases the portion of proceeds directed to the cause is generous, the recepient is validated, and the 'gift' is worth the cost associated with appeasing the giver. I have had a couple of really bad wines intended for charity, and received enough 'thank you for your donation' Cathy sticker address label sheets, to wish they had just donated the extra $5. (By the way, isn't it a prerequisite of the 'funnies' that they be funny?)

Suffice to say I have found a wine-oriented philanthropic venture that is both worthwhile, and produces a helluva wine. Markham Vineyards in Napa Valley is in its fourth year of the Mark of Distinction grant program. This program provides two $25,000 grants to organizations who seek to give back to their community or town. Nominations and final selection come from the public, allowing the program to respond to immenent need, and innovative ideas each year. While nominations have closed for this year, you can go here begining August 29th to vote for the ultimate recepients.
In addition Markham crafts two wines each year to honor the winners of the grants. The Philanthropist is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Markham's Yountville Estate vineyard, and The Altruist is a Cabernet Sauvignon from their Calistoga Estate vineyard. The grants are not dependent on the sales of these wines, rather the wines are bottled and sold to highlight the program and honor those who are putting Markham's donations to good use bettering the community that immediately surrounds them.

The wine: The Markham Vineyards 2006 The Philanthropist Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep garnet purple, yet remains slightly translucent at its core. The nose has beautiful fruit tones of cherry, fig, and cassis, yet remains earthy and not overtly ripe in its presentation of aromas. This is a great bouquet, and one that brings you back as it continues to open throughout the night. The wine itself is medium bodied and offers fruit and tannin in beautiful balance. There are complex layers of flavor, with plum, blackberry, tobacco, and even some tomato leaf. The finish is long and grippy, but a few years in the bottle has served it well.

The verdict: If you like your Napa Cabernet still youthful, but on the mellowing track, then this wine is drinking beautifully right now. There is a freshness and exuberance here, but a deft balance between fruit and earth, between structure and a sense of relaxation. For me this wine could certainly sit for several more years but has an appeal right now, and it is a stunning bottle of wine. In fact while drinking this wine I even felt okay about its pricepoint, not something I'll often say about a $55 bottle of wine. But this is a multi-layered, highly structured, impressive Napa Cab - and is therefore right in the price range (we could argue the price range as a whole...) So whether you are looking for a new single-vineyard high quality Napa Cabernet to put in your wine fridge, or are eager to participate in voting for this year's worthy community-focused grant recepient, check out Markham Vineyards - a winery that focuses on quality wines, and puts some of their profits back to good work.

This wine was provided as a sample with intent to review.

Tasting California's Alternative White Varietals

2011-08-08T06:30:00.000-07:00

Tasting a wine in some context (i.e. alongside wines to which it can be compared) is one of the fastest ways to train your palate to identify the unique qualities that each bottle of wine provides. This can be difficult to do. First, it can get expensive fast - I'm not in a position to open hundreds of dollars worth of bottles just to 'experiment' and God bless you if you are. Second, when doing true evaluation you are not going to finish several bottles of wine on your own. Well you might, but the evaluation aspect of the whole experience will become a bit inauthentic. Here on The Vino File, I invented (yes invented) a solution - the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit. Essentially we started a wine tasting group, dedicated to education, evaluation, and fun. The results of these monthly meetings will be a nice list of wines that have been evaluated by a hip group of winos - brought to you for your reading or purchasing pleasure. (By the way, I'm not calling myself 'hip' but the others who attended most certainly are.)

Our first meeting focused on white wines of California that came from less common varietals. The rules -

Bring any bottle of white wine that is varietally labeled and is not Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris (Grigio), or Riesling.

If you bring Barefoot Sparkling Moscato you will be asked to leave

Allow me to whine about how Riesling is only the 9th most common white grape crushed in 2010, and should therefore have been allowed at the tasting

Before the results of the tasting, since I'm sure that will induce you to run out to the wine shop, some interesting facts about the white grapes crushed in California in the 2010 vintage.

While Chardonnay was substantially the most common white grape at crush time, it was followed by French Colombard. This is a hearty, high yield grape used primarily in jug wine, and grown primarily in the hot and less than ideal Central Valley. There are not many boutique wines sporting 'French Colombard' on the label, but if you know of one please highlight it below. The most drastic increase in tonnage (by year over year percentage) from 2009 to 2010 was Picpoul Blanc. This is a bit skewed however, as none was reported in the 2009 crush report. I know that Tablas Creek is growing a bit of this grape and bottling it both varietally and in their Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, and there appears to be a miniscule amount crushed throughout the rest of the state. Albariño is interestingly also seeing a large increase, although the totals are still very small. The largest decrease was for the good old Verdelho grape, coming down to a paltry 299.4 tons statewide. While year to year statistics don't constitue a trend, as vintages affect different varietals differently, it will be interesting to see which of these changes continue into 2011.

(Generic millennial-esque model who apparently doesn't wish to swirl his wine)

The alternative white wine varietals tasted and evaluated, in order of my rating:

1. Abrente 2010 Napa Valley Albariño - Citrus, apple, and minerality with a rather herbal and saline palate. The acidity is bright in this wine by Bedrock's Morgan Twain Peterson. A bit of an experiment and a collaboration with Michael Havens who produced the first New World Albariño, this $20 bottle is distinct, delicious, and for me the wine of the night.

2. Palmina Arneis 2009 - I've spoken about Palmina's Italian varietal wines before, and how well Steve Clifton has done with these grapes that few others bottle varietally. This Piedmonte grape makes a wine with a deep honeyed, nutty, floral nose, with a bit of an ocean spray background. It drinks of tropical fruits, but is deeply savory and nutty with beautiful acidity. For only $18 this is a really spectacular alternative California white wine.

3. Barrel 27 'Sitting Pretty' Viognier 2010 - This is a big, fruity, expressive (and a bit hot) Santa Barbara County viognier. Ripe peaches, big mouthfeel, touch of oaky spice, and some nice minerality make this a crowd pleasing and delicious wine. It would have done even better for me if the alcohol was in check, but it burns a bit on the end. However it still tastes and smells excellent, and retails for a reasonable $18.

4. Tangent 2008 Edna Valley Albariño - With apricots and a bit of petrol on the nose, this is very different from the Abrente. There is a muskiness to the nose that is intriguing, and a peach flavor to the palate that is nice, but it is a bit watery and hollow in the middle, and the acidity feels kind of chunky. Pleasant, drinkable, even worth the $17 pricepoint, but not up to the Abrente standards for my palate.

5. Marjoram Grenache Blanc 2010 Camp Four Vineyards - This wine was challenged aromatically, and drank of peach, peach pit, and white flowers. A bit sweet and ending with a wave of alcoholic heat this grenache blanc was a bit ripe and fruity for me. This is the second Grenache Blanc I have had out of the Camp Four Vineyard, and the expression for me is just not balanced, too fruity, too sweet.

6. Leonesse Cellars 2010 Dry Muscat Canelli - This Temecula wine has a pleasant fruity nose showing lychee, peaches, and honeysuckle flowers. The palate is not as appealing in the dry alcohol flavors that overshadow the taste. There is a perfumy floral aspect to the palate, and a bit of citrus pith. For me, this wine is a pass at $18.

7. South Coast Winery 2008 Roussanne - Temecula should maybe not do Roussanne. Tomatoes, pickles, and celery salt on the nose led to a wierd, bitter coconut palate. Very unpleasant, and actually not drinkable, this is a major dumper. I'm all for experimentation, but when it doesn't work you should not sell it to people.

Wow, I realize now that all of these wines sell for $20 or under, and the first several offer outstanding quality. So while we had a great time expanding our palates I hope you will too, and look away from the common varietals for a bit of summertime exploration. Next month's meeting, by the way, Cabernet Franc from around the world. Can't wait!!

Barbera the Ubiquitous

2011-08-04T07:25:00.000-07:00

The story: Barbera is a fairly common grape to be so under the radar. Widely planted in Italy (primarily in Piedmont), Barbera has also spread throughout the New World to places like Australia, Argentina, and yes to California. However, in the New World Barbera is often grown in lessor vineyards (it has not historically sold for a lot of money per ton) and the majority ends up in blends. These blends are not the type of blends that would highlight the inclusion of Barbera, it is rather included for its nice acidity and generally bright red fruit flavors.

However it is exactly this tendency toward big acid and fresh fruit that have made a few regions worldwide successful with the grape. The most obvious are the Alba and Asti regions in Italy, but also California is finding some success with the grape in the Sierra Foothills and even in Lodi.

I have found myself attracted to these Barbera bottlings because of their food friendliness. I know that is a phrase that is a bit f***ed out, but it is important. A bottle of wine that shines on the dinner table with a wide variety of foods is a bottle of wine that will be remembered, savored, or purchased again. A balanced wine with bright raspberries, herbs, and mouthwatering acidity will bring enjoyment, but also elevate the food that surrounds it. For me, this is something that wine should aspire to.

The wine: The Giacomo Borgogno & Fils 2008 Barbera d'Alba Superiore is a deep maroon that fades to a ruby edge. The nose is screaming red fruit, with strawberries and raspberries, and a fine layer of dust that often denotes Italian wines to me. There is also hints of the acidity to come in the nose, which comes through in how high-toned the fruit flavors present themselves.
This wine took awhile to open up, but when it did the palate showed blood orange citrus, dusty baking spice, obvious red raspberry and cherry, and a nice earthiness. There was decent depth to the wine, through its light to medium body, and the acidity was zingy and pleasant.
The verdict: This Barbera breaks my expectations in that is has enough happening you could drink it on its own. However, it is a brilliant food wine and for those whose palates are more keyed to New World styles, a dinner table might be the best place to introduce this particular style. I found the flavors delicious, the structure appealing (although drink this sooner than later, as I think the acidity will overwhelm the fruit over the next couple of years), and the pricepoint very appropriate. You can find the wine for around $18 making it a great option to explore this very common grape, that does not often get our attention.