The Vino File - A Wine Blog

Greece Brings Some Diversity

2012-08-31T11:39:00.001-07:00

I keep a spreadsheet of the wines in my house. From a time management standpoint it is not particularly effective. But from a 'choosing the wine for tonight' standpoint, I kind of love it. I like to filter by varietal. I like to sort by drinking window. I like to sum up how many wines I have from a given country. I apparently like to be a geek. Sometimes however I get a little sad at the lack of diversity in grape varietals that most wine producing regions are producing. The great grapes of France seem to dominate my list whether I am searching Old World or New World. I love cabernets and pinots and appreciate the distinct differences that different terrors and philosophies bring to my collection, but to have 100 wines and only 10 different varietals can be a bit disappointing.

So I find that there are a few countries who are doing great things with distinct, native, and rare varietals - and I get excited. Greece in particular has had a place recently on my list, and while pronunciation and spelling becomes an issue, diversity becomes a catalyst for exploration. These Greek wines were not only all delicious, they were also different, distinct, and compelling. They were affordable and food friendly, and brought smiles and surprises to those who shared the dinner table. When looking for Greek wines, here are a few varietal suggestions:

Moschofilero - melons and flowers seem to dominate here, for my nose, and a sense of honey through the palate keeps the ultimately dry wine frisky. The wine is so clearly not cut from the same cloth as our typical chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, it is a white wine alternative that will enliven your lighter fare.

Xinomarvo - Now this grape can get me all geeked up. A lighter bodied red with a tendency to have a decent dose of acidity, this is not pinot noir - but can certainly be used for meals in which your natural inclination is to open a pinot noir. Suede, cedar, and fresh raspberry highlighted the examples I have had, and as a bonus - this grape can take a bit of age and become rather velvety.

Assyrtiko - Another alternative to your everyday whites this grape, when grown in the right soil, mixes a rather intense minerality with its fresh orchard fruits. Again, you will not mistake this for the more pedestrian varietals, and it is well worth a try for those of you who make white wine exploration a part of your regular consumption (which, by the way, should be ALL of you.)

Feel free to butcher the pronunciation, it is unlikely your wine store clerk will have the confidence to correct you. Feel free to check out my wine reviews linked in the header for specific bottles to seek out. Then let Greek wine continue to expand your horizons. Diversity is the key to continued pleasure when trying to master the un-master-able pursuit of wine!

On France

2012-08-01T19:26:00.000-07:00

No one is likely truly interested in excuses for complete silence around here the last several weeks. However, a quick note to indicate that I was traveling and am now back. I was traveling through France and it was fantastic. I encountered lots of wine, some of it great - and naturally some of it not so great. I wanted to give a few observations about the wine world of France, from which you can glean whatever conclusions you wish:

- The south of France is so beautiful, so warm in the summer, and generally so friendly that whatever quality of wine they produce seems just great for the setting. This is of course completely about the setting and not about the wine. But the Languedoc is certainly producing some of the more affordable, interesting wines in France and should continue to be an area of your exploration.

- Wine culture in French restaurants in general is not any more advanced than wine culture here. The lists are vague, the glasses are inappropriate, the temperatures are less than ideal. However there did seem to be a much stronger tendency by the patrons to include wine in their meals. This seemed to be done with a lot less intimidation or some of the pomp and circumstance that can surround the wine culture here - and it was refreshing.

- The old rules by which France regulates their vineyards and wine production may be stifling, but they help delineate a sense of diversity that is truly pleasurable. While it may be frustrating to be restricted in what you grow and how you vilify it, there is a likely outcome that allows exploration of the various regions to be exhilarating. The culture, the people, the soil, the weather - I guess the idea of terroir produces such diversity in the wines that hundreds of years of stodgy tradition actually enforce something really beautiful.

- Wines are not cheaper at the source apparently. Maybe we are lucky here in the U.S. but we can essentially buy the same wines at the same prices (not 100% true, but primarily accurate).

- This didn't sink in for me, but it is apparently acceptable to put ice in a cheap rose. I'd rather put the bottle of rose in some ice and appreciate it for what it is, but.... I'm apparently in the minority in Nice.

- Beaujolais (which I have advocated before) has such a legitimate place in your wine rotation. And when it comes to the dinner table it is way more flexible than many of the wines we generally choose. This tip can save you some money too - check it out.

That's it for now. I have some reviews of some great wines out of Australia and Greece coming up soon, just need to shake the jet lag!!

Check out the reviews!!

2012-06-08T07:50:00.001-07:00

Just a quick to note to acknowledge that while there have been few new posts on The Vino File lately, there are always new wine reviews being added to the database, linked above. Check them out!! I can attest that the Eden Road Shiraz was a wonderful surprise and well worth your look.

CA vs. France - A sparkler showdown

2012-05-11T11:53:00.000-07:00

Champagne is rightly the king (queen?) or sparkling wine on the world stage. So much so that like Kleenex, or Tylenol it now is often the term used by the masses to describe any product resembling itself. (Sorry Champagne for the comparison to pills and tissue...) However, many Champagne brands realized early that the Chardonnay in particular being grown in California was pretty damn good, and decided to set up shop on this side of the Atlantic to create some California sparkling wines. Now these domestic sparklers are at an all-time high in terms of quality and it begs for their to be a quick little showdown.

Champagne Tattinger in Reims is just one of those big old Champagne houses who got in on the California action. They started Domaine Carneros in, well Carneros, and have been producing sparkling wines and still Pinot Noir from the property since the early 1990's. I sat down to a NV Champagne Tattinger La Francaise Brut and a 2005 Le Reve Domaine Carneros. Many would argue that this is an unfair comparison, I would argue back - this was just for fun, the winner here really receives no glory or elevation.

The Champagne Tattinger La Francaise was yeasty and filled with citrus fruits. It was bright with acid but rather on the full side. Like most entry level Champagne it was not super complex but was tasty, refreshing, and fun. I liked it a lot for a $30 Champagne, it is widely available, and have no problem recommending it.

The Le Reve was a whole different animal. Certainly on the rich side, it was brimming with fruit and brioche, a touch of smoke, and layers of flavor. The mouthfeel was creamy but lifted, and the nose was beguiling. This is a spectacular bottle of sparkling wine - one that makes the $95 price tag seem justified.

So in this non-binding death match California came out on top, and Champagne proves again that they may a great decision in investing in California production. Have you ever put a Champagne toe to toe with a California sparkling wine? What were your results?

PSMIOFF 1.04 - Chardonnay Showdown

2012-05-04T10:02:00.000-07:00

There comes a time in every man's life when he must man up and admit that he loves Chardonnay. I mean this as a true obligation, and one that many man can never concur. The stigmas abound and are difficult to face, but failing to achieve this difficult task only serves to rob oneself of the joys that this often maligned (and often mistreated) grape adds to one's life. With this goal in mind the brilliant minds behind the Pasadena Society of Millenials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit sat down to a long and lustrous lineup of Chardonnay recently. What resulted was a qualitative increase in the number each person assigned (from 1-10) in their adherence with the following statement:

'I think Chardonnay makes some of the most interesting and beautiful white wine in the world and will try to find a place for it in my regular drinking and purchasing habits.'

If you too are ready to tackle this right of passage, I provide for you a list of rather diverse California and French Chardonnays for your persevering efforts, presented in order of the group's ratings:

1) Liquid Farm 2010 'White Hill' Chardonnay -Wow, this is an amazing wine from a new winery in Sta. Rita Hills with a distinct point of view. This wine smells of lemon meringue and a bit of grass. It brims with bright acidity, citrus notes, honey, and a beautiful touch of minerality. This is so incredibly fresh it will wine you over instantly - a truly beautiful Chardonnay at $38.

2) Bedrock Wine Company 2009 Brousseau Vineyard Chalone Chardonnay - Seems New World fruit with an Old World sensibility stole the show as this is another restrained, minerally wine with a touch of sweet green apple, amazing florality, and a kiss of salinity. The balance in this wine is spectacular and the flavors that emerge as it crosses your palate are very pleasing. This is a superbly crafted wine - and one I put on par with Liquid Farm.

3) Melville Estate 2010 Wente Selection - Available to wine club only, this wine was rich and leesy, with tropical pineapple on the nose and palate. And yet it snapped to a crisp finish and showed a rich minerality. Stunningly Californian, and a pleasure to drink Melville often gets my highest recommendation.

4) Peter Micheal Belle Cote 2009 - I had high hopes for this wine, and it was good. Brimming with tropical fruit - papaya and pineapple, there was also a distinct aspect of fresh bread dough to this wine. The oak was apparent but integrated, and an aspect of vanilla sugar finished it off nicely. For me this wine was very good, but not worth the price.

5) Saarloos and Sons 2008 Daughter's Chardonnay - I am only realizing now that Caifornia deftly overshadowed France in our specific tasting, and this Santa Barbara helped that right along. A nice wine for the $24 price tag, this wine was riper than the previous with cotton candy and sweet tropical fruit throughout. The acid was a bit prickly yet, but I can certainly recommend this wine for those who like fatter California Chardonnay.

6) 2008 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet - Alright, France's turn, and this one was certainly showing the more mineral, stony, lean side of Chardonnay. A bit characterless, this wine showed apple skins, underripe pineapple, and a sense of dry extract. Alright in itself, but not worth the $50 price tag - this wine was a bit of a disappointment.

7) Ramey 2009 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay - A bit too much for most of the crowd, this was creamy, oaky, toffee, and ripe pear. I thought it was handled nicely and the elements were in balance, but it didn't go over well with those adverse to a bit of butter and oak. At $60 this is a splurge, and should only be purchased by those who like their Chard big and ripe.

8) Robert Denogent 2008 St. Veran - Austere and dry, this wine was rocky, minerally, and had some big acidic lift. It wasn't bad, it just wasn't interesting and definitely needed to be on a dinner table. The majority called it a pass as the simplicity was not met with enough interest.

9) A Macon that will remain unnamed was completely oxidized - cool to taste if you like nutty sherry type flavors, but not fair to include in the evaluation.

A nice lineup to display the diversity and wonder of Chardonnay, and a proud declaration - I love Chardonnay!

Saving Some Collective Breath

2012-04-13T07:50:00.004-07:00

Today as a sort of public service announcement I offer the top ten things we can all stop saying. If everybody saved 10-15 words a day that would be like 3-4 billion words in the U.S. alone. If you think about it, that's really a HUGE savings and you kind of only have to choose one of the sentences below to not say each day. Plants will be able to work a little bit less hard to convert us new oxygen, everyone can really just relax. Take your pick, or come up with a new idea of things that 'go without saying.'

1) This is a completely non-smoking flight. (I love how they almost always say completely, like its different than those ones where you can smoke on the descent...)

2) The backlash against Merlot should be over. (Still for some reason no one can mention Merlot without referencing Sideways. It makes me itchy its so played out.)

3) Buckle up!

4) I just hate the butter and oak bomb Chardonnays (yeah, yeah, you and everyone with some sophistication)

5) I could really stand to lose a few pounds (You could save a few words by just saying 'I'm a modern American')

6) Sparkling wine does not need to just be for celebrations (anyone who does not know this doesn't deserve to drink it with food - doesn't need to be said anymore)

7) At least it's Thursday (I actually would refrain from making any reference to what day of the week it is at work, it is mundane and believe me everyone is already well aware)

8) I don't like sweet wine (yes you do, you just won't let yourself)

9) What? You haven't seen ? (I get this all the time and I want to say, uh yeah, that's what I just said)

10) This wine is made in a more international style (call it overripe, call it overoaked, mention is has no real sense of place but don't call it the 'international' style - that phrase is ironically becoming as flabby as the style it is trying to represent)

You're welcome oxygen supply!!

Understanding Cognac: A Primer

2012-03-14T07:20:00.001-07:00

A couple of months ago I received a bottle of Cognac. As the box was opened I felt a surge of excitment, the box and bottle were beautiful, the juice inside mahogany brown and inticing. I placed the bottle proudly at the front of my liquor cabinet, making sure that it hid from view that embarassing bottle of coconut-flavored rum behind it, and promised to take it out for a swirl soon enough. Only a few hours later did I realize that I had no knowledge or context for what I had received. As if the bottle was staring me down from its perch in the cupboard, I began to feel uncomfortable.

"You got all excited, but you don't know what I really am or have a clue what to do with me," it seemed to be challenging me from the kitchen. I realized quickly that the gift may be more than a nicely foiled box and ornate glasswork. Indeed, this gift may be a chance to learn about an entirely unique and delicious beverage. What follows is simply what I learned, which in turn allowed me to enjoy my Cognac both in context and in experience.

Cognac is called Cognac simply because it hails from the region around the town of Cognac in Western France (yes, I started simple.) It is a brandy, meaning it is a distilled spirit produced from fruit. In the case of Cognac it is entirely produced from grapes, namely Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard. Like all AOC regulated products in France the requirements for a beverage to be legally called a Cognac are quite complex, but this is how France has consistently provided consistency in their wines and spirits (and consistently been considered at the top of the wine and spirit production pyramid)!

The grapes are pressed and vinified into a white wine, and only grapes from one of the certified regions of Cognac can be included. The resulting wine is probably not something you would want to drink at this point - Ugni Blanc is rarely seen as a white table wine on its own, and the region of Cognac does not necessarily produce enough body and ripeness to make a palateable wine. What is produced however lends itself beautifully to the next stages of Cognac production.

The wine is then double distilled in a copper still (years, and I mean many years, of practice have indicated that copper imparts no taste influence on this process), and even the stills that can be used are regulated. The double distillation results in a spirit that is then put into oak barrels for aging. This aging process is important as flavors from the oak are imparted into the spirit overtime. I'm sure you are as surprised as me to know that the type of wood used to make these aging barrels is, you guessed it, prescribed. Eventually the spirit is transferred to glass containers and awaits the blending process.

The blending process, although not required, is usually done in a manner that allows the specific house to release a consistent tasting product year after year. It is during this process that the tasters attempt to produce a complex taste profile that will result in a distinct style for their specific house. It is the age of the youngest brandy in the blend that will set the quality grade that you may recognize from your strolls down the Cognac aisle:

V.S. - indicates a Cognac in which the youngest spirit was aged in barrel for at least two years

V.S.O.P - indicates that the youngest spirits was aged for at least four years

X.O. - indicates at least six years of aging for the youngest spirit in the blend

You must keep in mind that the designation is based on the youngest spirit in the blend, not the average. Many X.O. designated Cognacs average nearly 20 years of aging (and you will find that this extra time in storage will cost you a bit more money, but the complexity certainly tends to follow).

So I now had a bit of understanding about what it was staring me down from the cabinet, but I still wasn't sure what to do with it. The beauty of Cognac is in the myriad of flavors that it can present. While each house or brand attempts to produce a similar taste profile year to year, the variety within the category is what ultimately may drag you wine geeks into a prolonged exploration.

I realized that coming at Cognac from a more traditional table wine background that I would best enjoy this drink as intended, simply in a snifter, with no distractions, observing and enjoying the aromas and tastes that this Cognac presents. While the 40% abv offers some distinction in how this is enjoyed, it is best enjoyed on it's own. I simply poured a small amount into my glass, swirled the liquid to release some aromas and took a tentative sniff. I found this was all that was needed. Too far into the glass and the alcohol was overpowering (and a bit astringent). But the typical nose plunge of wine tasting was not needed or warranted. Instead I found that the aromas of nuts and caramel, sometimes flowers or vanilla are fascinatingly present well above the glass. Every bit as intriguing and complex (in many cases more so) than a great glass of wine I have come to love picking out the aromas of a slowly warming glass of Cognac.

The alcohol content of Cognac presents a different tasting technique as well. Best for me is to make sure I am a bit warmed up - a big initial slurp will not be pleasant. Instead several smaller sips over time allow the full complexities of the spirit to come through. And the variations you will find when exploring Cognac are certainly what will keep you coming back. Some are warm and leathery, others brighter and flowery. The distinctions, and yet the regions ability to maintain a consistency through their tight production standards, are astounding.

Armed with a bit of knowledge and context I went forth and thoroughly enjoyed the Cognac I received. The gift kept giving, beautiful packaging for initial excitement, a new head full of knowledge for continued thought, and a new habit for pleasurable sipping - I am thankful that I am coming to know Cognac.

CAMPAGNE FINANCEE AVEC LE CONCOURS DE L’UNION EUROPEENNE ET DE LA FRANCE

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Clayhouse Estate and Things that are Cute

2012-03-09T09:29:00.005-08:00

The story: The Interwebs loves things that are cute. While it usually involves lots of fur combined with either a button-like black nose or tongue that probably indicates loss of musculature through over breeding, today you've stumbled upon the exploration of something cute that is actually worth your attention. This blog has paid a lot of love to Paso Robles, probably because of its proximity to my house, but also because the diverse styles and emergence of wonderful California Rhônes get me excited. Combine with that level-headed pricing and the ability to drive its roads, even on weekends, without being stuck behind a line of lumbering limos and you have a winner.

Clayhouse Wines makes a rather diverse lineup of wines from the fruit of Paso Robles and recently teamed up with TastingRoom.com to provide a sample of their Estate wines in a box of 50ml bottles. While I expected to enjoy the wines, I did not realize that the opening of the little black box in which they were provided would turn me into a gushing admirer, reminiscent of a high school girl who reads anime and creates collages of wet bunnies and abnormally premature piglets. These things are damned cute. It made me wish they had baby corks and a tiny corkscrew, and I even considered tasting the wines out of the world's smallest wine glass. And while my giggling and fawning might have temporarily stripped me of the small amount of masculinity that I occassionally exhibit, I did find that this was a spectacularly efficient way to sample a variety of wines and decide what I like. The wine inside the bottles was fresh, and the size was truly perfect for a couple swishes (and swallows if you prefer) that allowed a full evaluation of a rather wide lineup. I know it is not a terrible problem to have, but it is never pleasant to me to taste several samples and end up dumping wine down the drain. Nor is it pleasant to the PR folks to spend upwards of $30 to send me a 30 lb. box when all I really need is a couple of swigs. What Clayhouse and TastingRoom.com delivered was really innovative (beyond the fact that I wanted to hug the bottles.)

The wine: But now I am just sounding weird, so lets get on to the wines. The lineup consisted of a range of Rhône and Bordeaux inspired wines with a couple of Petite Sirahs. The entire portfolio was good, these are typical of Paso Robles and rather big, rich wines, but they were good. And all of the wines ring in at under $40. From the sample I would easily say that you can rely on Clayhouse Estate series for good quality and good value. None of the wines disappointed. But if you really want a specific recommendation I would have to go with these two:

The Clayhouse 2008 Estate Malbec has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot to round out its Bordeaux (although not typical with Malbec at the lead) credentials. It is a dark wine, almost black at its core, and offers aromas of rich plum with hints of smoke and coffee. The palate is dry and still a bit held up in tannic structure, but the flavors of dark berry and plum are nice, as is the reserved but apparent oak spice. As the wine transitions across the palate there is some nice pepperiness and a energetic burst of dark-fruited energy that drives the wine towards a fresh earthy finish. This is a Malbec that represents its varietal well, and is considerably more interesting than a lot of the $15 Malbecs from Argentina that are currently ubiquitous in our restaurants and markets. I would however recommend another year or so of leaving this one alone. A bit more integration will serve it well. $35

The Clayhouse 2007 Show Pony Petite Sirah is impenetrable in its blackness, and the brooding nose of rich blackberry, cream, and spice continue this character. The nose is sweet and monsterous and yet quite appealing, also very characteristic of the power that California Petite Sirah can contain. The juice coincides, full bodied and brooding, with sweet blackberry and a delicious licorice spice. A sense of dark chocolate and dried sage add interest - but the most compelling part of this wine is its focus throughout its rather fleshy experience. I'm not sure this is a wine for a meal, it stands up just fine on its own, but it is very delicious and very well made. $40

The verdict: Clayhouse has done a nice job in providing well made wines to its consumers, and in finding an innovative way to allow people to sample their wines. Over the years they have become another feather in the cap of Paso Robles, a region that has certainly proven itself. If you are in Paso Robles tasting, or if you are just ordering wine for your own drinking pleasure, you will be pleased with any of their Estate line. Check them out.

You Can't Miss Hospice du Rhone!

2012-03-02T08:18:00.006-08:00

I went into a wine bar this week to grab a pre-dinner glass with a good friend. Sitting on the bar were a bottle of Gigondas and a bottle of Vacqueyras that did not appear on their list. When inquired, the bartender indicated that they were samples from a rep, and they were waiting on the owner to taste to see if he wanted to carry them in his retail section. No problem, I responded, I'll take a glass of the Sancerre. But the bartender did not stop there (like he was compelled to teach me something?) and indicated that they would NEVER be able to afford pouring those bottles by the glass. These bottles were single-vineyard Rhônes, and were beautiful, violet field AOC wines. They were not the under $100 Gigondas or Vacqueyras that taste very dirty and muddled. He said that Gigondas and Vacqueyras are probably his favorite regions, but he just can't drink the bottles that cost under $100.

I paused and scrunched up my eyes, and said something to the effect of how long he must have searched to find a bottle of Gigondas and Vacqueyras both over $100. I dropped it there, not really understanding why he was making this story up. Not to mention the bottles were nearly full and it would be unusual for a rep to leave two $100 bottles at an account just for the owner to taste later (in my experience).

An hour later I was tasting these wines, and discussing with the owner Grenache's beauty and potential downfalls, commenting on how these bottles (at under $30) were both fresh values - within earshot of the strangely compulsive bartender. It may sound arrogant, but I got a little charge of pride by never having to call him out on his inaccurate information, and yet leaving the bar with him knowing that he had not pulled one over on me.

The world of wine is a fascinating and exciting place to explore. You get an adventure in every bottle, every bar, every vineyard. But a little bit of knowledge can greatly enhance this experience, and also apparently help you avoid some of the bullshit that can fly around the topic. Particularly on Rhônes, there is a little event (okay a big event) that is the single most efficient way to learn and have one hell of a weekend. Rapidly approaching, Paso Roble's Hospice du Rhône is one of the best weekends of my year, one of the funnest couple of days you can spend, and a wonderful place to learn that Gigondas in the $30 range can be wonderful - not at all dirty tasting.

This year's Hospice du Rhône runs from April 26 to April 28 at the Paso Roble's Event Center. It contains seminars where you will learn about, and taste, Christopher Baron's Cayuse syrahs from Walla Walla, Les Vins des Vienne collaboration of Rhône superstars Yves Cuilleron, Francois Villard, and Pierre Gaillard, and some spectacular Rhône inspired wines from Spain and Australia. You will be fed like a king during the Rosé lunch, the closing BBQ, and even during the two Grand Tastings (one Friday and one Saturday). You will have access to the world's greatest Rhône wines in a two-day extravaganza that would require a passport, several plane tickets, and many weeks of vacation to otherwise experience. In the end you will be well fed, have new friends, and know a hell of a lot about where Vacqueyras fits into the whole picture.

Tickets can be purchased for the whole weekend, or for each individual event. I can say from years past that the seminars are enlightening, fun, and well worth the expense, but the large tastings are where the true value lies. The hours fly by with plenty of opportunity to taste and speak with the proprietors and winemakers. I can't recommend this event enough, and have found it to be the single most 'can't miss' wine event I have in my calendar.

For more information on Hospice du Rhône, visit their site at http://www.hospicedurhone.org/ and clear your schedule. If you do come, please say hello, the relationships made at this event are worth a good portion of the cost. Arm yourself with a bit of knowledge, do so in a infinitely fun environment, and be prepared to become a Rhône evangelist!

Report from Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012

2012-02-24T13:11:00.005-08:00

Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012 was an interesting event. The space was crowded with beautiful wines, and with way too many persons for the size of the room, and in an unexpected twist I left with a list of winners that diverged far from the pinot-centric focus. I found many of the California pinots to be simply too big, and too ripe. Some may say that is an unfair criticism, but it is balanced with a true love for the pinots that showed balance. I know that it can be argued that California pinot has a right to show itelf differently than pinot from Oregon or Burgundy. It has a right to be powerful, and that is not a flaw. But heat, excessive extraction, and an inability to play nice with food is generally unappealing to me. At least when it comes to Pinot Noir, the wonderful grape whose beauty is best expressed in medium bodied, velvetty tannins, and a balance of earth and fruit flavors. So while you might expect a report from Pasadena Pinot Fest to include a long list of recommended Pinots, you will find here a rather eclectic mix of beautiful wines for your purchasing and sipping pleasure (and yes, there are some Pinots).

Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay 2007 - Arcadian makes some pretty fruit forward wines, but with beautiful oak integration, bright acidity, and very fresh citrus and melon flavors this Chardonnay more than handles itself. It was delicious, it had richness, and yet it maintained a wonderful sense of balance. I often feel as conflicted about California Chardonnay as I do about California Pinot Noir - they are too big for their britches too often, but then you find those that are distinctly Californian and obviously world class. This is smackdab in that category.

Coeur de Terre 2010 Pinot Gris - Not your typical Oregon Pinot Gris, this wine reminded me more of Sauvignon Blanc with its grassy herbal notes and rocky minerality. Very fresh, very different, and a much more pleasant style of Pinot Gris for me, I can clearly recommend this for those who like dry, refreshing, crisp white wines that will show really well on the table. This lone Oregon producer at the Festival also showed how wonderful Willamette Valley Pinot Noir can be with their mushroomy, earthy, cherry-fruited 2009 Estate Pinot Noir. (If typicity is important to you, the PG might frustrate you. Also, relax!)

Palmina Arneis Santa Ynez Valley 2010 - A regular favorite of mine for its rich pear flavors balanced by fresh citrus acidity. I'm not sure why Palmina was pouring at this event, they do not make a Pinot, although it was probably in a nod to Steve Clifton whose other labels make some very well respected Pinots. Either way, this is a wonderfully different Cal-Ital bottle, and one that I thoroughly enjoy every time I drink it. (Bonus points for looking up and reading about Arneis prior to drinking this.)

Sojourn Cellars 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Along with his spectacular Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III Cabernet, Sojourn's Erich Bradley was pouring some delicious juice. Unknown to me prior to this festival, this label was my most exciting find. The Sonoma Coast Pinot has a wonderful lushness to it that is so perfectly kept in check by its acidity as to make a glass of Pinot that shines on its own but would also be spectacular with food. These are the styles of California wine that make us stand out, and should therefore be supported!

Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Vertical - Clos Pepe was pouring several years of their Estate Pinot Noir, in an opportunity to really experience the vintage variation. While all were recommended, the 2008 was particularly delicious. The older wines (specifically 2000, and 2002) both had some life left in them, and were well settled into themselves. The acidity may have been more pronounced, the fruit a bit more in the background, but clearly Clos Pepe produces wines that can hold on, and each bottle of wine had its own appeal.

Harmonique Elegance 2006 - Another producer I was not familiar with, Harmonique produces several Pinots out of their Alexander Valley homebase. All of their wines were restrained, and showed off that medium bodied silkiness that I love in a Pinot. The Elegance did this with a real sense of dark cherry fruit, and I can see it being a winner for those who love balanced California Pinot.

There you have it, a few Pinots, a few white wines, and even a Napa Cabernet sneaking into the list of great wines encountered at this year's Pasadena Pinot Fest. I hope it serves as a guide to getting into California Pinot Noir, as well as a glimpse into why you should look to attend this festival next year. Cheers!

PSMIOFF 2.01 - Grenache (Part 2)

2012-02-17T08:33:00.000-08:00

A continuation of the report on our Grenache tasting - only this time chock full of some beautiful Grenache Noir for your purchasing and sipping pleasure. No need for a background on what the hell PSMIOFF is (just click back one article) let's dive right into it. Grenache is on the rise - not to say that it hasn't always been a respected grape in Southern France and Northern Spain, it has. But many have had their reservations about the somewhat difficult little bastard. It tends to ripen late, and when it ripens it can ripen quickly causing overly juicy, overly alcoholic, and potentially flabby wines. Much of France has considered it better as a blending grape, an important part of Southern Rhones blends, but equally important to be given a bit more structure and depth with shots of Mourvedre or Syrah. But modern winemaking techniques and careful attention in the vineyard have allowed this varietal to emerge on its own, or at least as a largely primary grape in blends. Witness the boom of single varietal Grenache in California Rhone Ranger bottles, the AOC status of Gigondas, and the hundreds of bottles of Spanish Garnacha.

We discovered that no matter where these wines were coming from they had noses of berry (ranging from strawberry to blackberry), and often a great subtle spiciness. At times there was beautiful earthy elements, or slight and pleasant oak influence. On the other hand we did encounter wines that were too juicy, too jammy, or just downright hot (evident alcohol). Overall however the group was surprised with how delicious, generally affordable, and consistent these Grenaches showed. None of the 11 wines we tasted were bad, and the first 6 are recommended. Here in my order of preference:

1) The Cristia 2010 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes is full of rich red berry, with waves of rose in the nose (its the kind of nose that keeps you going back - and might I add gets you made fun of as a snob since you continuously smell your wine). The palate has nice, easy red fruit with hints of chocolate, Asian spices, and some beautiful earthiness. 75% grenache, supported by Mourvedre, this was my wine of the night both for its amazing value, and refined sensibility.

2) Also on the red fruit aspect, but with a cool splash of tomato leaf, the Barrel 27 Rock & Hard Place 2008 Grenache hails out of Paso Robles. It captures that Paso Robles size, but does it well with interesting ripe strawberry fruit, red licorice, and beautiful spice. Just when you think it pushes towards over the top, it pulls back with a burst of bright acid, and some savory aspects that make it delicious. This wine is absolutely delicious (and only $18)!

3) Back to France, and with a wine that is a bit bigger and more modern than most Cotes du Rhone, the Cercius Cotes du Rhone 2010 is brimming with bright, smooth, and ripe red raspberries, a bit of smokey oak, and a long earthy finish. Again, well south of $20, and again a delicious primarily Grenache wine.

4) An older vintage, and very different (God bless vintage variation) the 2007 Barrel 27 Rock & Hard Place Grenache is riper, with more vanilla oak, but also some beautiful minty herbs. The finish is more strawberry fruit than earth, and this wine is a touch hotter, but again has a nice balancing acidity and a tasty factor that is undeniable.

5) Wow, like a ping pong ball between France and California, next up is the Chateau Pesquie Terrasses Ventoux. This is the fist wine that has a mellow lightness to it, is more earth and spice, with a hint of raspberry fruit. Also rather earthy in its finish this is a great value, and a real wine for the table.

6) Finally to Spain, with a very inexpensive wine that surprised me in its drinkability and pure pleasure. Simply red berries and earth the Bitch 2009 Aragon Grenache is not going to blow your mind. But it is going to make you feel like it was $6 well spent, and is a great introduction to Spanish Garnacha.

7) Jean-Marie Arnoux Vacqueyras 2009 brought a bit of the funk with a mushroom mixed with potpourri nose, and a floral and red fruit palate. This wine dies a rather quick death in the finish, and just didn't bring a whole lot of excitment to the table.

8) The Cass 2009 Grenache was a bit of a disappointment. It was good, it represented the light bodied, almost Pinot like style that Grenache does well, but it was a bit boring. Strawberries and bright acid across its lithe frame made for a pleasant drink, but not a particularly exciting glass of wine.

9) A bit of stank and heat slightly outshone the pretty blueberries that the Xiloca Aragon Grenache offered. These things could have been okay, but the structure just wasn't there to support it.

10) The Bodega de Edgar 2009 Grenache had some nice red fruit, spice, and cinnamon aspects, but it was clouded by its intense alcohol heat. This wine was just too much for the back of the throat. Once it was open for awhile it became tolerable, but was still not something I would choose to drink, except as a warmer on a very cold night. It just couldn't quite hold its alcohol.

11) A wine I have really enjoyed in the past, the 2009 Tres Picos Borsao Garnacha was a bit scattered yet. Maybe in time it will come together, but for now the sweet vanilla Coke aspect dominated and made the wine feel flabby and out of sorts. The Campo de Borja region makes some wonderful, generally big and modern, versions of Garnacha, and Tres Picos has historically been a real bargain, but the 2009 either doesn't do it, or doesn't do it yet.

The end game on this tasting was that Grenache has a place in all of our cellars. While yet to exist in the minds of the average consumer as a go-to varietal, it really should be. It doesn't have the hype of Pinot Noir, or Cabernet Sauvignon, but that only serves to keep the prices reasonable. It gets lost in people's minds as it is not on the label of the French blends, and has a slightly different name in Spain, but that under the radar status is allowing great things to be done. It has enough subtlety in general to pair with lighter meats (pork, duck, even some robustly sauced pastas), and enough structure to take on tougher meals. In summation, Grenache can and should become a part of your rotation - get some while the getting's good.

PSMIOFF 2.01 - Grenache (Part 1)

2012-02-10T10:45:00.000-08:00

Once a month the Pasadena Society for Millenials Interested in Observation on Fermented Fruit gathers to learn about wine by tasting and discussing. We are serious explorers with a very laid back approach. We started off the year strong with our tasting focused on grenache, be it blanc, rosé, or noir - be it grenache or garnacha we were in this to come to understand the grape and find out what bottles got us excited. There was a strong turnout, and enough excitment that a few people brought more than one bottle. Needless to say that made for a racous and long evening, and one that I will split into two posts. Rosé was unfortunately absent so we'll cover the Blancs tonight and the Reds in a coming post.

Grenache Blanc is gaining momentum in California. This is primarily true in Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, and some in Paso Robles - although not exclusively. Historically an important grape for the white wines of the Southern Rhone, Grenache Blanc is also prevelant in Northern Spain. It takes some time to get this grape ripe (not unlike it's cousin Grenache, from which it is assumed to be a mutation). This late ripening tendency can lead to a high alcohol, flabbiness, and a reputation to be a better blending grape than to stand on it's own. All of our examples (with one major exception) where single varietal Grenache Blancs from California. While this did not give us a chance to compare domestic versions to some more Old World examples, it did give us an opportunity to look for developing varietal characteristics of the American version. All of the wines were good, and we found that you are not going to pay through the nose for Grenache Blanc currently. This may be in part to its relative obscurity (although it is out there for those who look), but it is an added benefit to what we found to be a delicious grape. In order of my preference:

#1 - 2010 Two Shepherds Grenache Blanc Saraloos Vineyard is produced up in Sonoma County, but with grapes from Santa Ynez. It is a beautiful wine, with almonds, pears, and white flowers on the nose, and a floral citric palate with flecks of minerality and bright acidity. This wine also has a wonderful back story, a story of passionate vigneron William Allen (who you might know as Sonoma William from the blog Simple Hedonisms) who has grown his interest into wine into a full scale (although still appealingly tiny) winery. Those of us who have met William have been waiting for this vintage, as he is now bonded and selling his wine. This was my first chance to try this Rhone devotee's wines, and I am excited by what he has created. There will be more coverage of this emerging superstar in the coming weeks on The Vino File - that is to say Two Shepherds will get its own post. In the meantime, this Grenache Blanc is quickly selling out but still available here. This wine stood above the other Grenache Blancs for its balance, focus, and delicious fruit.

#2 - We were fortunate to have another producer and different vintage, but with fruit from the same vineyard in the 2009 Saarloos and Sons Grenache Blanc. This wine also had obvious almond in the nose, but with a stronger sense of sweet tangerine. The body was a bit fuller than the Two Shepherds, the ripeness leaning towards peach, and the acid a bit angular. However, it was still refreshing, and still really tasty.

#3 - This is technically not a Grenache Blanc, but is white and unique - the Cass Winery CA Brut Sparkling Grenache Noir is one-of-a-kind as far as I can tell. Grenache Noir is pressed and receives no skin contact, then produced in the Traditional Champenoise Method to produce a almondy and floral sprakling wine. It is crisp and tasty, slightly sweet and very pleasant. This is made in very small quantities, and done a bit as an expirement - but one that works. The wine is great, it is just rated a bit lower than the others due to its steep $55 price tag. Personally I would save that money for a spectacular Champagne. But if you are shopping through the Central Coast and want something completely different - this is well made.

#4 - Last (and least, but not by much) is the South Coast Winery 2010 Grenache Blanc. I have historically panned the wines of Temecula, and this wine was not perfect, but it may be one of the more pleasant wines I have had from this region. The slightly sweet honey-nut and peach flavors were tasty, and yet the wine was a bit flabby - lacking in acid. While I would not buy this wine again, there were plenty of us who found the wine drinkable and tasty.

It seems that Grenache Blanc consistently offered up nuttiness, florality, and citrus. When this was matched by nice acidity it produced a wonderfully different white wine - and one that was nicely able to offer an aperitif or food-friendly option. With the exception of the unique sparkling wine they were also all priced well under $30, indicating that this is a wonderful category for your California white wine exploration. Look next week for a lengthy list of Grenache Noirs. Until then, cheers!

The Conundrum of California Pinot Noir - and An Invitation to Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012

2012-02-03T11:54:00.000-08:00

There is conflict in California Pinot Noir for me. On one hand it has been a resounding success, and that success is entirely due to the authentic hard work and dedication of many a vineyard manager, winery owner, or winemaker. The unique expression of this often difficult grape has found it's niche from Santa Barbara to Mendocino, and there are thousands of examples for which I would spend my money and time to enjoy. But on the other hand there are thousands of examples that are hyper ripe, fat, almost sweet, and terribly unappealing to my palate. I can go on streaks where I think I am ready to write off California Pinot, but then always find myself encountering a spectacular bottle that pulls me back. So what should California Pinot strive to be (obviously written from my own preference's perspective)?

California Pinot has a right, and a need, to be uniquely California in its expression. Sunshiney fruit is a joy when balanced with acidity, some balancing flavors (earth, forest, minerality), and an appropriately sexy mouthfeel, as Pinot should have. California Pinot does not need to be 'Burgundian' in style, but that does not excuse it from a sense of balance. California Pinot should find the happy medium in its body - maybe fuller than many examples from Oregon, but not nearing the sense of the Syrah grown right next to it. It should hint at the sunny days under which it ripened, but should never taste liked stewed or pruney fruit. And last of all it should not burn under sky high alcohol. I don't have a alcohol prejudice, but I do have an obvious heat prejudice.

Oh, and one more thing - the fruit and structure must outlast the oak influence. Rich is okay, a mouthfull of oak - not so okay.

So what does all that confusing speak mean? I have an example for you to find out, and an event during which you will more than come to understand. I recommend both highly, as in my Pinot conundrum I have come to realize that my conflicted feelings have developed quite a passion for exploring, and often loving, California Pinot Noir.

So you want one bottle that represents the balance? Check out La Follette 2009 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir Sonoma Mountain. Crafted by Greg La Follette (a scientist at heart, who is passionate about applying his careful approach to his trade), the 2009 VdK Pinot struck me as a fantastic representation of what California Pinot Noir should be. It is dark red, darker than you will generally see in Oregon or Burgundy, but maintains a translucence. There is some rich red fruit, cherry primarily, but it is balanced with a mineral bite, some dusty cocoa and a delicious meatiness. The structure of the tannins and the perfectly balanced acidity finish this wine off, and suggest it can take some age, and the mouthfeel is wonderfully satiny - as it should be. At $39.99 (suggesting you might find it in the low $30's) this wine is my recommendation of the month for understanding how beautiful California Pinot can be.

So you want to thoroughly explore California Pinot Noir? One of the greatest wine events to come to Los Angeles each year is the Pasadena Pinot Fest. The location is beautiful, and the winery representation offers the beginner or the geek a brilliant chance to truly experience the different expressions of this complicated grape. Tickets are $89, but this gives you 4 hours of access to over 200 Pinots, and it has historically had some very nice catering. In previous years the crowds have not been overwhelming, giving you a chance to talk to each winemaker or representative to truly understand what makes their region, and their expression of Pinot unique. I have found big score wines that I detest, big score wines that I love, and relatively unknown micro-producers that really get my heart racing at this event, and I can't recommend it enough. For further information, and to purchase tickets, check out the event site here.

In the end California Pinot is only a conundrum for me because it has such various expressions. The joy is in finding the ones that really hit the sweet spot. Here's to your exploration.

The La Follette was provided as a media sample.

Notes to an Emerging Wine Region

2012-01-27T10:00:00.000-08:00

Dear New New World Wine Region-

I know you don't feel new, as you have put in years of hard work and sincere dedication to your craft. I only classify you as new because you are not yet widely recognized by consumers worldwide. I hope that the term 'new' is not discouraging, as it is meant to inspire the idea of opportunity, the world is your oyster. I am writing you today to give you an idea of one consumer's observations on how you can best use your expansion and growth to focus on success. There are many ways in which you can focus your efforts to increase your sales, and increase your visibility. After all, you have the opportunity to shape your own future, and a lot of other emergent wine regions successes and pitfalls to learn from. As I see it, here are the ways in which you can increase your recognition:

Marketing - Consumers need to know about you, and one way to do this is to get yourself out there. This can be done through focused PR pushes in the countries to which you export. Advertising, writeups in wine journals, and social media campaigns will put your country and your bottles in the craws of the hordes, it may get people talking (the best type of advertising) and may increase general awareness. This takes money, and takes time, and in my opinion must be backed up by quality, consistency, and availability. Marketing is the first step in creating buzz, and as inauthentic as it may be if no one knows about you - no one cares.

Tourism - Another way to increase your visibility is to ensure that your wine producing region is somewhere that people want to visit. France is the most visited country in the world, and the wine regions benefit from this (along with many other reasons). Take Temecula, California - they are certainly not winning any real recognition for the quality of their wine (offensiveness noted) but their ability to market the wine country lifestyle to the millions of San Diegans and Angelenos within 90 minutes drive of their vineyards keeps the cash flowing. If the region can combine wine with an infrastructure that encourages traffic (hotels, restaurants, other cultural interest) then your emergence will be pushed. If no one wants to come to the epicenter of your production, you will stall.

Perfecting your fruit - By far the most important aspect of your growth is your ability to grow the right fruit in the right setting. Different grapes obviously do well in different environments, and too many emerging regions are caught waffling between trying to find a grape that is unique to them, or trying to appeal to all the accepted global varietals, and they end up getting it all wrong. Your soil, your sun, your fog, may not be able to do both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, and trying to do so will only result in poor quality and a lack of distinction. On the other hand an insistence on pushing a grape that is unique to your region, as the sole means of identity, can also be difficult (I'm looking at you Pinotage). New Zealand languished a bit on the global scene until it was widely accepted that they had great conditions to create their grassy, grapefruity Sauvignon Blanc. Whether you like this style or not, it is undeniable that fitting that grape into their unique terroir, and honing in on the farming and vinification techniques that matched what the planet had given them, launched New Zealand into the everyday lexicon of wine drinker worldwide. In the end it is all about the fruit and until you discover what grapes are right for your region (and more importantly which ones are not) you will struggle to emerge.

Globalizing your wine style - A HUGE pitfall in emerging wine regions, is quickly attempting to globalize your wine style. It is a catastrophe, and one that I have seen over and over, to take the grapes you are given and assume that additional ripening, additional extraction, and additional oak will inherently produce a bottle of wine that can be marketed well (ala high scores), sold for more money (ala $100), and accepted into the restaurants and cellars that you strive for. Indistinct, but bombastic, fruit flavors with overtones of expensive vanilla and smokey char are not the answer. Consistent expression of your unique fruit is, and while slower, the authenticity of this approach is really the only way to go.

Let me get down to business. I am writing this letter directly to you Uruguay. As I recently had the opportunity to taste a whole lineup of what you are offering through your grape Tannat. It was a nice experience, and one filled with wines I would buy, drink, and recommend. And yet it got me thinking about the way in which you are emerging. I know you didn't ask for this advice, but it inevitably came welling up inside of me. The bottles I tasted seemed to be inversely appealing to the price point (for the most part). The cheaper bottles, such as the Puebla del Sol 2010 Tannat, and the Puelba del Sol 2010 Rose Tannat were fresh, distinct, and truly a pleasure to drink. At $10 they are perfect weekday wines, the red wine showing dusty blackberry, resolved tannins, and tart pomegranate, and the rose having fresh flavors of strawberry and a nice spicy element. These wines are exciting due to their low price point and their simple expression of something different, something Uruguyan. Moving up a level the Don Pascual 2010 Reserve Tannat was also fresh and delicious. The brambly blackberry began to show the dark fruit expression of this grape across several bottles, the acid kept the fruit in check, and the focus showed a slightly higher quality to the grapes used between this $16 bottle, and it's little Puebla del Sol cousin. But some of the more expensive bottles troubled me, the Don Pascual Roble 2010 Tannat and the $125 1er Cru d'Exception 2008 were lavishly oaked and therefore lost any sense of the grape and the country. This is not the way to go, and was disappointing.

So here are my final thoughts. Go with Tannat, that is fine. You are clearly able to grow the grape and keep it back from its often harsh tannic structure and difficult youth. There is also a consistency to the fruit expression from the grapes you are growing (when you don't bludgeon it with barrel staves). Tie the bottles to a lifestyle - we cooked up some traditional Uruguayan dishes (pascualina is a must try) and it was brilliant. South American wine has a starting place, and you can certainly be a distinct offering within this place. Let your fruit do the talking, and if that results in a slew of wines in the $10-$30 range, then you will be right in line with most Malbec, Carmenere, and Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that has caught on in the U.S. And that is a good thing for your emergence. You have plenty going for you, and I hope you great success. I know my little venture into Tannat will result in more bottles of your product on my dinner table, and with a little focus and patience I believe my fellow wine drinkers will follow suit.

Scott

The Tannats were provided as media samples with intent to review.

Stuff Parisians Like - A Book Review

2012-01-19T22:38:00.000-08:00

There comes a time in most wine explorations paths in which France must come into consideration. A country that produces so much wonderful wine simply must become a part of any true understanding of wine. And I must say that in my consideration is has done quite well. Even in our domestic productions we refer to Bordeaux blends, Burgundian grapes, and Rhone varietals. In my journey I have come to have a deep respect for the history, the traditions, and the qualities of the wines of France. It's not that one must think French wine better than their non-French counterparts (although many wine enthusiasts do) it is just a fact that many New World wines will tout their ability to compare to the standards France has set. The vinfluence of France's vineyards and cellars simply must be recognized.

What followed for me was a bit of a fascination with the people and culture of France. I hope you have learned on these pages how much an understanding of where a wine comes from can enhance a wine drinking experience. When I made the rather simple discovery that it was French people who invented the wonders of a bottle of Champagne, I knew that these people were fascinating.

I recently read a book, that while not exactly about wine, is a deep and sarcastic plunge into the culture of the Parisians. With plenty of insight into 'les paysans' the book offers a tongue-in-cheek whirlwind tour into many of the cultures that make up the French. Stuff Parisians Like, by Olivier Magny is arguably filled with offensive stereotypes, yet it instead comes across as a jovial celebration of the quirks and idiosyncrasies that make the French who they are.

For me this was a fun read, and one that takes some of the mysticism and intimidation out of the country that offers such a complex wine history. While not directly discussing wine and its array of regions in France, it reminded me that these are people just like the people of Sonoma, or Walla Walla. With hilarious chapters such as:

Having Theories

Despising le PSG

The Idea of Sailing

Bitching About Waiters

and Not Drinking Wine

This book will have you laughing, concurring, and feeling more confident about making a trip to Paris (followed by jaunts to Champagne, or the Loire). The author does have a strong wine connection, having opened O-Chateau in Paris to offer wine classes, and subsequently a wine bar in the 1er arrondissement that has a great reputation. Read the book, book your tickets to Paris, get signed up for one of Magny's classes, and let your wine exploration expand into a fascination with the wonderfully complex (but not as intimidating as you thought) culture of France.

You can purchase the book here.

The book was provided as a media sample.

A Tale of Two Pinots

2012-01-13T09:04:00.000-08:00

The story: Wine writers/bloggers love to argue the merits of the wine score. This is generally followed up by an argument about the motivation to have the original score argument. The only conclusion here, from a less than interested consumer point of view, is that writers and critics probably just love to argue. That might be true. Or it may just be a matter of passion. Anyone who would dedicate themselves to a single subject the way wine writers and bloggers do, must have a bit of passion. And when you are passionate about something you naturally begin to develop opinions, and apparently the need to sharpen those opinions against contrasting thought. I understand the arguments for scores on both sides. It seems a bit foolish to try and quantify something as subjective as the experience of a taste of wine. And yet many consumers like the comfort that an expert's clearly expressed opinion offers them. Critics say that these scores must be taken in context with the text that accompanies the score to truly understand why the wine received the score it received.

I recently drank two New World Pinot Noirs within a short span. One from California's Sonoma Coast, the other from half way around the world in New Zealand, these wines were so remarkably alike that it got me thinking about scores, even with notes. Obviously tasted next to each other these wines would not be identical. And likely tasted next to each other a person would come up with a preference for one over the other (possibly even a strong preference). But from the tasting notes below, see if you can tell which one you would prefer and therefore put out your cash for:

The wines: The Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2009 Freestone Hills Pinot Noir is a translucent magenta in the glass, with a nice nose of dusty cherries, forest floor, and baking spice. The palate is lush and bursting with juicy cherries. Across the mid-palate the Christmas spice kicks in, turning the juice towards the sweet side and then finishing with enough acidity to keep it friendly.

The Craggy Range 2009 Te Muna Road Pinot Noir pours a bright cherry red. The nose expresses dusty cherry juice, a bit of herbacous leafiness, and some clear cinnamon. In the mouth one gets ripe cherry juiciness and a bit of barrel spice that leads to a rather heavy sweetness on the lengthy and tasty finish.

The verdict: In both cases I found these wines tasty, easy to drink, pleasant, and probably widely appealing. I wrote for both wines that they seemed a bit ripe and lacked any substantially interesting flavors, but would certainly have mass appeal, and present exactly what they intend to present. There is nothing wrong with either of these wines, you must just appreciate the fresh and fruity stylings of rather New World Pinot Noir. And (privately since I do not score wines on The Vino File), I gave both wines 89 points. I would also add that both wines will probably benefit from a bit more time, some of the nuance was lost in their youth and as the fruit recedes they will get better. By the way, both wines are around $40 (not uncommon for a quality pinot I suppose.)

What strikes me is that neither the score nor the note can really indicate the differences in these wines. That bothered me for awhile. But then I realized that taken individually this information is helpful, and for me is worthwhile. If I know I like my Pinot to express lively fruit, a touch of spice from laying in oak, and to be juicy and easy to drink, then these notes make it clear that I will enjoy these wines. If I know that I like my Pinot bold and layered, or more reserved and smokey, then these are probably not the wines for me.

In the end I do recommend these wines for people who prefer this style. They were both well made and delicious. I also propose that while context and severe distinction is impossible to anticipate or communicate in a score or a 60 word text, there is value in seeing what others say about a wine. I guess then I better keep on!

Disclaimer: These wines were received as media samples with intent to review.

A Sweet Spot for a Willamette Valley Stop

2012-01-06T09:04:00.000-08:00

I need to come clean on something. Despite my utter obsession with wine I'm not too keen on a long day of tasting room hopping. I enjoy tasting and learning, and I enjoy trying to get a sense for a wine region that is new or unfamiliar to me, but often get bored at being presented with the marketed side of an afternoon in wine country. I seem to prefer experiencing the wines with food, across producers, or in the more intimate setting of a home (mine in particular). What this has translated to for me over the years is a tendency to seek out great little restaurants or cafes in a new wine region, that has a wine list that covers the area, offers by the glass or flight selections, and a great atmosphere and food.

I've found one in the Willamette Valley that clearly fits the bill. Opened recently in my childhood village of Albany, Sweet Red Coffee & Wine Bistro is a coffee and pastry shop in the morning, a great lunch bistro in the afternoon, and a laid back small plate cafe in the evening. It is cheery and welcoming, with just the right touch of sophistication in its menu. And it offers a very affordable by-the-glass wine list covering Oregon and bits of Washington.

If I have any complaints, I'm not big on the name. I know Americans like their wine sweet, but I have come across very few sweet red wines, outside of Port, that are particularly interesting. They have a few sweet reds that apparently sell very well, and I understand the need to move bottles, but it seems to me to diminish the seriousness that their spectacular food provides (and what pairs well with sweet reds?) Their wine list as a whole is also a bit shallow. There is plenty to enjoy, some good pinot noirs, a few Southern Oregon Bordeauxs that are very pleasant, but in an attempt to keep the glasses under $10 there is a lot of spectacular Northwest wine that is automatically eliminated. Again, probably in a very calculated manner to keep local regular customers coming back, which is a very valid tactic, but a few broader options in addition to the regular options would be appealing.

But enough of that, let me tell you why I love this place and will revisit whenever in the Willamette Valley. It is simply put the food. It is imaginative, inexpensive, beautifully plated, and downright delicious. Playing with local flavors, Sweet Red has invented such dishes as Walnut and Date Crostini - a delightfully complex play between the brown sugar sweetness of the dates, the oily nuttiness of the walnuts, and the pungent saltiness of brie. It is interesting in texture and flavor and a surprising start to a meal (tastes delicious with a light Oregon pinot by the way). Many of the entrees are rather straightforward in their planning, but sauced and seasoned in such a way that they feel unique (especially for the dining scene in little Albany). The fiery shrimp are perfectly spicy, and in my visit were also perfectly cooked. The brussel sprouts were a hit, as was the mac n' cheese. And the prices, for wine country, were very fair. With a few interesting micro brews on tap, this place rounds up to a real winner.

When touring the Willamette Valley it is worth heading south from the well-known Dundee Hills to check out some of the spectacular producers that have found unique terroir further down the valley. This puts you very near the town of Albany, where you can explore an entire downtown of well-preserved Victorian architecture, and get a sense of what rural Oregon towns are really like. If you do this, you must stop at Sweet Red, for an entirely different experience and one you will not regret.

The 10 Most Exciting Wines of 2011

2011-12-31T11:30:00.000-08:00

I know people bag on Top Ten lists. But I don't know why. Maybe it is their fear of commitment. It is a pleasure for me to taste hundreds and hundreds of wines each year and carefully include a few in a rather short list. Those that stuck with me, stood out amongst the rest, and linger in my memories of 2011. The list I prefer to make is not necessarily those who I would score the highest (as occasionally rather perfect wines don't completely hold my interest.) Instead they are the 10 wines that were exciting for me. The 10 wines I remember exactly how they smelled and tasted, or how they added to a wonderful experience. So I present to you my 10 most exciting wines of 2011, and say without reservation that any of them would bring pleasure:

10) 2007 Scagliola Frem Barbera d'Asti - Maybe it was finding this wine for $10, but it seriously delivered with mushrooms and dark fruit, and perfect oak spicing (not easy for me to say). It was a spectacular blend of fruit and Italian rusticity that reminded me that Italian wine is made for the dinner table - as it went perfectly with our grilled sausage dinner.

9) 2008 Zotovitch Cellars Syrah - I've been a bit of a California Syrah advocate this year, and here is an example of why I love it. The meatiness and black pepper hint at the cold climate of these Sta. Rita Hills vineyards, and yet a hefty alcohol level integrates and adds some power. Steve Clifton consulted on this wine, and the result is delicious (and exciting!)

8) 2009 Uvaggio Vermentino - Back to Italy, but via Lodi, California. This wine is spectacularly savory and fresh. I chose it because I think there is something to Italian varietals and Lodi, something I would not have expected. While this is clearly my favorite wine of the lot, I have had some interesting dry Moscato, and Barbera from Lodi as well this year and hope that they are on to something. The price here is incentive to try it as well.

7) 2008 " The Day Job" Stage Left Cellars - A unique blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre makes for a layered wine that is distinct and exciting. I was also captivated by the story of Melinda Doty and Rich Williams who have built this urban Oakland winery piece by piece. If you get a hold of this wine, and really want to know what lingers for me, smell and taste for the Mourvedre's savory influence in the finish. I can still taste it.

6) 2008 Wind Gap Syrah Griffin's Lair - Oops, another California Syrah from a fairly cold vineyard happens to sneak in here. This one is multi-layered, broad, and a bit wild. It is truly a beautiful wine, from a label that is consistently making spectacular bottles.

5) 2010 Bedrock Compagni Portis Heirloom White - This wine makes the list because of owner/winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson's dedication to the nearly extinct 12 varietals of Compagni Portis vineyard that make up this blend. Well, some are nearly extinct. The wine is primarily Gewurtzraminer, and it is spectacularly waxy, tropical, and floral. It is a unique wine that seems truly Californian, but the spice and mineral on the finish bring it home in a way that is difficult to describe.

4) 2006 Vergari Van der Kamp Pinot Noir - I go back and forth with Pinot Noir, because there are so many bad ones. But this wine is spectacular. I first met David Vergaria at Pasadena's Pinot Fest last February, and have become a customer. His focus is clear (age able, balanced pinot from California's best vineyards) and his success is evident in each bottle I have opened. The Van der Kamp offers dusty cherries and herbs, hints of smoke and earth, and beautiful acidity.

3) 2009 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane - Expensive, yes. Mind-blowing, yes. Able to create a Condrieu evangelist out of me, triple yes. I had no idea what Viognier could be until I tasted this spicy, musky, smokey beauty. But it was the contrast between the expansive flavors that effortlessly maintained an intense focus that really got me excited. I rarely say this on The Vino File, but this bottle is worth the nearly $100 price tag.

2) 2010 Maison Bleue Marsanne Boushey Vineyard - Another white Rhone, but from Stateside this time. The almonds, the beautiful peach, and the sublime texture makes this wine intensely appealing. Add the winery's other outstanding wines in the last two years and you have yourself an up and comer that still offers outstanding value. Washington has a winner in this wine, and in Maison Bleue.

1) Henriot NV Blanc Souverain Brut - Yep, a Champagne takes my wine of the year. I don't drink enough of this stuff, and this is the bottle that set me straight. Apple fruit and pleasing bubbles yes, but a lot more. There is a hazelnut aspect to this wine, and just the right sense of creaminess. I lingered over this glass, and went on and on, just long enough to get off my bum and start adding Champagne to my regular buying (and drinking) habits. More than any other wine, this bottle changed my wine consumption habits. I dare you to resist it's appeal.

Some amazing wines, from a great year. Making the list brings back some great memories and yet definitely propels me with excitement into 2012. I would love to hear your most exciting wine of 2011 in the comments. In the meantime have a very Happy New Year!!

Merry Christmas To All

2011-12-23T08:28:00.001-08:00

Just a quick post today to wish you all a very merry Christmas (or whatever you may be celebrating this week). I genuinely hope that as 2011 winds to an end you find yourself surrounded by friends and family with a moment to relax and reflect, and certainly with some time to enjoy some good food and wine.

2011 for me will be remembered as the year I spent in San Francisco, the year the blog shifted down to a more manageable once-a-week endeavour, and the first year in a long time that the niece and nephew count held steady at 6. It was a polarized and therefore rather inefficient year in Washington, a second year of strangely cold grape ripening in the U.S, and the end to our troops in Iraq. Globally we saw a developing Euro crisis, and revolutions in the Middle East.

Its worth a moment to reflect as we start to look forward to 2012. For me it is worth a few celebrations (because you got through something, or because of accomplishments, both worth some joy!) It is worth a moment of planning or dreaming about what next year holds, and it is worth me telling you that I appreciate that you read and enjoy this blog. As I've always said, this is fun for me - and I genuinely appreciate that you share that experience.

So a quick toast, a sincere wish of holiday cheer, and a promise to be back one more time this year to share my most interesting wines of 2011. Now off to the market to get that horseradish for tomorrow's prime rib (it's an excuse for the unusual opening of a big California Cabernet tomorrow evening!!) Cheers!

A Quick Trip to Planet Bordeaux

2011-12-16T09:07:00.000-08:00

It is no wonder that Bordeaux as a category fights for the everyman attention in the United States. The general story an American consumer hears from Bordeaux involves intense auctions in Hong Kong, vitally important vintage variation, confusing implied quality dependent on the village name on the bottle, and the idea that Bordeaux means tannic red wines meant for a big hunk of beef. The irony is that all of these things CAN be true. But the flip-side gets lost in the sensationalism. I have found, in a couple of interactions with the marketing group Planet Bordeaux, that there is a simple and ultimately very pleasant way to skirt around these imposing generalizations. There are whole swaths of bottles of Bordeaux produced in less recognized vineyards that are categorized simply as Bordeaux, or Bordeaux Superieur. Still grown and vinified with tight standards, these wines don't demand the attention of their 'more important' cousins. This comes at a bit of a price; what do you potentially lose:

Not all of these wines are as high quality as the more specific regional AOC designated wines (Paulliac, Graves, etc.) but this is not always true

These wines generally do not age as long as the more specific regional AOC designated wines

The producers are certainly less well known or marketed, so it is more often the case that you are taking a chance

But what is to be gained by drinking Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur

These wines are fantastically affordable (usually under $20, sometimes closer to $10)

These wines can be drunk early, buy it tonight and drink it tonight

There are large quantities of these wines, new producers to explore any day of the week

These wines offer some great quality finds

There are whites, clairets, and reds to fit with a huge variety of foods and event

So the pros vastly outweigh the cons. Every time I explore this inexpensive category I am reminded that these are wonderful every day wines that more Americans can and should enjoy. They generally taste and feel like what you might expect from 'Bordeaux', therefore fitting a unique category in your wine exploration. And they won't break the bank.

During a recent tasting with Planet Bordeaux I was introduced to the following wines, all of which I can recommend, presented here in my order of preference:

Chateau de Bel 2009 Bordeaux Superieur - Smokey in the nose and on the palate, there is plenty of rich blackberry and plum to appeal to the fruit inspired folks. The tar and spice keep things nice, and the freshness to this wine keeps it from ever appearing 'gloppy' Delicious and impressive for the $16 price tag.

Chateau Lamothe Vincent 2009 Bordeaux - Fig, cedar, and tobacco invite the nose, and dark berries and earth lead to a lead like, minerally finish. A bit more classically Old World than the Bel, this is a deep and structured wine - and only $15!

Grand Vin de Reignac 2008 - You have read about Reignac wines on these pages before, and possibly heard about this star Chateau elsewhere. This is a wine that has often been blind tasted against the big boys and almost always held its own. The 2008 was a bit closed for me (these babies can take some bottle age) but the dusty hints of leather on the nose, nice oak notes on the palate, and firm tannins hint at a beautiful wine and another year of spectacular bargain.

Chateau de Parenchere 2010 Bordeaux Clairet - Bordeaux produces some wonderful rose wines, often a bit more serious than the more famous French roses from Provence. These wines are a deeper red, this one was bright cherry red, and the vibrant red fruits lean more towards ripe plums than you might expect. This wine was certainly vibrant but had more serious spice, even chocolate and earth, in the palate. Interesting for its refreshing qualities that juxtapose against its more serious qualities - and a wine that would be a blast to play with in interesting and unexpected food pairings (i.e. this could take some heft from the plate) The exciting thing about this wine is that if you generally like roses you will probably like this wine, and if you generally do not - this wine might surprise you. At $12 its worth the experimentation.

Finally we tasted the Chateau Larteau 2005 to get an idea of how these inexpensive wines can take a bit of age. There was a bit of sweet cherry to the nose and palate of this wine that surprised me, but also blueberries, sweet pipe tobacco, and some nice chalky tannins. This wine was taking its age well, but overall seemed less interesting and vibrant than the other wines. That said, it was good, and well worth the 10 BP it will cost you (shipping across the pond might be a hefty bill...) I'm not sure you can easily find this vintage in the US, but take this as a note - these wines can take some bottle age (not the 30 years of Lafitte, but if you like some tertiary development you can do this)

I can't reiterate enough how strongly I feel these wines are missing from most American's consideration. Be it the low price that does not inspire confidence, the aversion to Bordeaux as an overwhelming category, or the tendency to buy your everyday wine at the supermarket - ignoring Bordeaux is deciding to miss out. This winter take my heartfelt advice and try a few (you might just change your tune about Merlot in the meantime).

Things I Like

2011-12-09T11:45:00.000-08:00

Today's post is sort of like the old Oprah Christmas shows, only none of you are going to find the things I list here under your seat. As the holidays pass by in a blur I am the type that genuinely gets very excited for old traditions, new treats, and general good cheer. While thinking about things I wanted to write about on the 'ole blog, the list just kept growing. So see this as a wish list, or a recommendation list - whichever is least offensive to your sensibilities and join me in enjoying the next couple of weeks simply because it is a fun thing to do:

1) Sparkling rosé - It's fun, it's festive, and it is so damn good. Sparkling rosés come in all price ranges and instantly liven up a moment. They do well as aperitifs or as food accompaniments to early courses. You can find them made from Pinot Noir in California and Burgundy, or from grapes of Cava (Trepat and Garnacha) by going Spanish. I recommend, as an inexpensive option, the Freixnet Cordon Rosado Cava NV. The bright citrus flavors blend with red berry fruitiness, and ends dry for a tasty treat.

2) Saving for special bottles - I think it is important to find wines that you can drink on a regular basis without denting your grocery budget. I think it is also important to find producers you love, and splurge on their stuff occassionally for a dinner party, or special night at home. But lately I have also found it very exciting to set your eyes on a prize and save for it. I'm talking scouting for a 10th anniversary wine, or 21st birthday wine (don't waste it on the youth themselves, however!!) Online auctions offer some well-aged prizeworthy wines, that can be had at great prices (if you skip the La Tache). One auction that is running through the holidays is set to benefit a family in New York whose daughter has gone missing. Check out the details here.

3) Molasses Spice Cookies - I mean it. I have deep cravings for these chewy morsels, but have made myself only bake them (by the dozen) during December. I love the Cook's Illustrated recipe as they come out chewy and spicy - but I'll take them anyway I can get them.

4) Pinot Noir - There is something ethereal about Pinot Noir that just makes me a bit crazy for it. It seems elegant, and at the dinner table it is truly versatile. This is a must with holiday dinner parties, as dishes range from sweet to spicy, from rich to light, and they tend to get all jumbled into family style servings. The wonderful thing about Pinot is that it has such unique expressions depending on where it is from and how it is grown and handled in the cellar. A recent bargain (and alternate location to the usual) that I came across is The Crossings 2009 Pinot Noir Marlborough. This New Zealand Pinot is light and bright, with cherry, a bit of toasty wood, some potpurri spice and a brisk cranberry finish. It just seems Christmasy, and at under $20 is a bargain.

5) Kiki and Coco In Paris - I know, a children's book? But at my age I have several little girls to buy Christmas gifts for, and this book is the rare find that suits them all. It is a beautiful work of photography, with a story that has heart. I know you don't expect to find random book suggestions on The Vino File, but if you are buying gifts for a girl under 8, this is a sure bet.

6) Decorating with real greenery - I grew up in Oregon and can vouch that if you are worried about sustainability you do have options. Yes, there are large monocultured strip wastes of trees, but many are now farming organically, and blending their lots into established forests which are protected by their practices. And bringing in fresh boughs, wreaths, and trees makes a house warm and smell great. So unless you have a pine allergy, skimp on the gifts if you must and fill your house with fresh pine this December.

A little list of the things I like, the things that make my December a bit brighter. I wish you and yours a warm and joyfully holiday season as well.

Warm Wine for a Windy Winter

2011-12-02T09:22:00.000-08:00

The story: We had quite a little event here in Pasadena this week. Cold winds, pushed down through the canyons in the San Gabriel Mountains by a high pressure system, whipped us pretty good. With speeds up to 92 mph recorded, Pasadena was essentially at the epicenter of one of the worst wind storms Southern California has seen in years. While we escaped the devestating potentials of wildfires, we sat in our creaking houses as hundreds of trees fell across the city - smashing cars, houses, and apartments, tearing up sidewalks and streets, ripping down powerlines, and generally reminding us of our helplessness in the face of nature.

It was intimidating. It was humbling in its requirement for us to sit and wait. The damage would be what the damage would be. And it made me think of a few bigger, warmer wines I have had recently that sure would have made the long winter night pass by a little easier. As snow and wind and rain and cold surround us for the next couple of months - here are some perfect winter wines to keep you cozy inside.

The wines - Trinitas Petite Sirah 2006 Old Vine Lodi is a jet black inky wine with a ruby red rim. The nose is big, gamey, and brimming with black cherry and hints of menthol. It warms you through the sip with dark berries, licorice, cocoa dust, earth and a big tannic structure. The finish does not disappoint, is a bit candied, hints of pencil lead, and stays toasty for a long memory after going down. This is a big wine, as petite sirah and Lodi are apt to provide, but is balanced and tasty. Looks like they still have some Jeroboams left of this vintage (which would be a blast during a winter get together) but the later vintages have been said to be as good as 2006, so keep your eye out.

Nothing warms and calms the soul like a good Port. And nothing represents Port-style wines better than an authentic Porto from Porto Portugal. Made of the traditional Port grapes (Touriga Franca, Tinto Roriz, and a whole list of Tourigas and Tintos) the Fonseca Bin No. 27 First Reserve Porto is a big, warm, chocolatey glass of goodness. The vibrant purple juice shows dusty blueberries, and prunes, rather bright fruit and mocha, and a velvetty texture. A bit of booze belies the fortification, but that is to be expected. Around a fire, and after a meal this wine is sure to please and keep the chill away (or bearable).

The verdict: While winter can bring some difficult or even scary weather, it also offers a lovely alternative setting in which to switch your wine consuming gears. The recommended wines above are two great examples of wines to purchase over the next couple of months, but there is a whole slew of big, ripe, higher alcohol wines that can fit this bill. It is common these days among wine geeks to praise a sense of balance that lighter, earthier, more acidic wines can bring to a dinner table - and I agree. But I also think there is a place for all wines that knit their components together well (whatever the constitution of these components may be) and cold, windy days offer me (and you) an opportunity for a whole different category. Stay warm and enjoy!

Disclaimer - The Port was provided as a media sample with intent to review.

Practicing Thankfulness

2011-11-22T10:45:00.000-08:00

I have a friend at work who is obsessed with collecting Dove chocolate wrapper quotes. These are the 'uplifting' phrases that Dove puts on the inside of their small foil wrappers. You know those slightly vomit inducing sayings like 'Dance with your heart' or 'Joy begins with those you love.' I must admit that I am often torn between reading the sayings and imagining how the foil wrapper might feel on my old fillings. This is just my cynicism, and I figure teasing her mercilessly about my perception of how empty these phrases are (considering she finds great pleasure in taunting me with them) is a better alternative to capping in my natural born angst.

So you can imagine when my sister told me that she was going to spend this holiday season 'diligently practicing thankfulness' my eyes involuntarily rolled. But then whilst trying to sleep a few days later I realized how productive that could actually be. I have so much to be thankful for in this life I have carved out, there is no reason not to spend some time dwelling on these things. I never really understood why people saw the holidays as stressful, as they were always full of joy and good things for me, but I can certainly take some time to put energy into the act of being thankful. It is humbling, it is positive, and I am going to do it. So here in no particular order are the things I am thankful for today:

Security - This is not an easy time for a lot of people, be it the world economy, the place they were born, disruptions in relationships, whatever it is. I am fortunate to be in a place where I feel secure in my job, secure in my relationship, safe in my neighborhood. Today I will remind myself that these are not things to take lately. I am thankful that I go to sleep each night with very few necessary worries.

Friends - Lets face it, work is not always fun, keeping a house is not always easy, even putting energy into friendships can be frustrating. But that investment in others proves to come back tenfold. To have people in your life that know what you are up to, and care, is really incredible. It is those moments with good friends that really make all of the other 'stuff' we have to do worth it. I am thankful today for so many good people in my life.

Family - I know, I know, this list is entirely predictable. But my thankfulness for my family is not just in the fact that they are wonderful. It is in the idea that they have decided that we will be a supporting unit no matter what twists and turns life brings. While the 'problems' my family may face could seem mundane and insignificant to some, for us they have been real. And through everything there has been this commitment to relationship that has prevailed, even flourished. I am thankful to have been born into a group of people that value each other that much.

Finally, with an eye towards ending this diary-like ramble - I am thankful for the sure pleasure that writing this blog has added to my life. It really has enhanced my days in ways I didn't imagine when I started. So I will be toasting these things with the following carefully selected wines this Thursday (well Wednesday night actually for me, but lets pretend) I know there are a million articles and posts out there on how and what to pair with your Thanksgiving dinner. I've avoided it in the past just for that reason. But in case you are interested, or want to try these wines at a later date, here they are. My rules (self-imposed but carefully crafted) are 1) I choose to drink American wine with what feels to me a uniquely American feast 2) Needs to be festive 3) Needs to be reasonably priced 4) Needs to have good acidity to stand up to all the food.

With appetizers - Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Blancs While not the most complex domestic sparkler, I go back to this wine for parties time and time again. It is refreshing, it is crisp, it sparkles.... If it is a bit too boring for you make a Classic Champagne Cocktail by dropping a sugar cube in your flute, adding 2-3 drops of bitters, and then topping with the sparkling wine - delicious.

With the smorgasboard - Vergari 2007 Marin County Pinot Noir I've written about David Vergari's wines before, but because I truly love them I've saved this one for the Thanksgiving table. It has some pretty real earthy, minerally aromas and tastes going on, but enough ruby fruit to balance it out. I can't wait to drink this with turkey.

Chronicle Wines 2006 Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel Zinfandel is a quintessential American grape (well, we made it what it is anyway) but I want one that is not too bomby, appropriately structured, but not overwhelming. This bottle accomplishes such a wish with finesse, but maintains enough fruit to not be overly nuanced for the setting.

With the pies - I had a bottle of Ridge Old School Zinfandel 2007 from Dry Creek Valley a few months back and was shocked as I did not expect the residual sugar and almost port-like characteristics it presented. Opened in the wrong setting I did not enjoy it. But I think it will go beautifully with after dinner desserts and enjoying the fire, as it has great acidity and thick sweet fruit and spice. This wine was made for American Thanksgiving cheese, dessert, or conversation. I can't wait.

That's it, a bit of California, a bit of Washington, good food, good friends, and a thankful heart. Here is hoping your holiday is delightful, and remember to remember what is good in your life!!

PSMIOFF 1.04: Rhoning in Washington

2011-11-16T07:25:00.000-08:00

A quick refresher - the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit is a wine tasting group I started simply as a place to enjoy great company, evaluate wines in a variety of categories, and mix those things together in a monthly meeting that has proven to be loads of fun. Another reminder, ever since my trip to Walla Walla for the Wine Blogger's Conference in 2010 I am a huge advocate and generally in love with Washington wine. I love the obviously New World fruit, with the distinctly Washington sense of acidity when the fruit is carefully grown on the East side of the beautiful Cascade mountains. Washington built its reputation on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and has done extraordinarily well with Riesling as well. But the momentum more recently has been in Syrah, and possibly in other Rhone varietals. For this reason, and because the slip of paper pulled out of the hat at the end of PSMIOFF 1.03 said so, we spent this month exploring the Rhone bottles from Washington.

The results were not mixed, although some bottles were better than others. Generally speaking each wine had its merit, each wine showed a rather good value, and each wine continued my excitement towards what Washington has to offer. I encourage an exploration of Washington Rhones through any of these wines, presented here in my order of preference:

Dunham Cellars Syrah 2006 - Cherry pie, flowers and a hint of smoke on the nose lead to a juicy, peppery, and downright beautiful palate. The acid does not disappoint and lends an elegance to this full-bodied beauty that made it the wine of the night for me.

Maison Bleue Petite Joie Marsanne 2010 - Possibly unfair in that this was the only white wine present, this wine is spectacular. Quince, pear and marzipan make up the downright awesome nose. The palate is crisp, with citrus, pineapple and white flowers presenting one of the most delicious whites I have had in months. I raved about Maison Bleue before, and there ability to impress continues.

Owen Roe Sinister Hand 2009 - Mostly grenache, with a dollop of syrah and traces of counoise and mourvedre, this wine had blueberries and potpurri Christmas spices on the nose. Sweet vanilla and grapey juice up front lead to a nicely structure finish with some tart cranberries. Possibly because this wine was distinct from the syrah dominated tasting, and partly because the spice and cranberry were both appealing and refreshing, this wine was one of my favorites.

A tie for 4th between Doyenne Syrah 2007 and Board Track Racer Cellars 2008 Cab/Syrah blend 'The Vincent' The Doyenne had a chalky, dusty, sweet nose of blackberry liquer, and a rich palate of coffee, ripe berry cobler, and a hint of cough syrup. This wine settled down throughout the night and while remaining rich and ripe was delicious and fairly indicative of the good syrahs I have tasted from Washington. The Board Track 'The Vincent' was more red fruit focused and had some bramble, pepper, and a great earthiness. The finish was spicy, with bright acid to hold it all together.

Next up, and we are still in very good territory here albeit my fifth favorite wine - K Vintners Motor City Kitty 2008 Syrah. Charles Smith is pretty well known for his rock star syrahs, and while a bit heavy on the juicy grappiness for me here, the floral and earth aspects were appealing. This wine also calmed down a bit after a few hours and was lovely to drink, also a great price point for getting to try K Vintners legendary stuff.

Last, and yes in this case least, someone snuck in a bottle of Columbia Crest 2007 Syrah. It is amazing to taste this large production stuff in the middle of all of these careful, small lot, well sourced wines. This wine, in this context, was smokey and sulphury, and tasted simply of slightly alcoholic blueberry juice. I am a fan of a lot of what Columbia Crest does, but this was not very pleasant.

A great tour through some upcoming and established Washington Rhone stars, only cements the region in my mind as on of the U.S. greatest success in winemaking. While I imagine it will be a long time before the Wine Blogger's Conference returns, I am still excited by what is happening in Eastern Washington and encourage you to encourage your local wine stores to stock more Washington Rhones.

Experiencing Harvest at Michel-Schlumberger

2011-11-07T21:15:00.000-08:00

I feel lucky to have the parents that I have. I know a lot of people feel that way (and a lot don't), and it is possible that the 'nurture' part of a relatively peaceful and very loving childhood sort of quietly guides us into those feelings, but never the less I am thankful for my mom and dad. While maintaining a true individuality, and unique set of interests, they are genuinely open to new experiences, and for the most part express a true interest in the interests of their adult children (although they did speak Bill O'Reilly a couple of times recently, which concerns me....)

Neither of them are big wine drinkers (Dad more than Mom, but still not in a major way) and yet both of them happily joined me for a vineyard walk and winery tour of Michel-Schlumberger on our recent weekend in Healdsburg. Possibly enticed by the promised sandwich stop at Dry Creek General Store, but more likely just wanting to spend some time with their sons, they came with interest and excitement.

Michel-Schlumberger was a perfect spot for such an excursion, with plenty to interest the uber-geek and beauty and fascinating farming intention to convince the less-interested, not to mention some tastings of delicious and obviously carefully crafted wines. The property is beautiful, and the focus on sustainable practices is apparent throughout. Beehives buzz with activity near Wine Creek (one of only 4 creeks in Sonoma County that still sustains salmon spawning). Cover crops keep the dirt in the vineyard, out of the creek, and the wandering sheep keep the cover crop 'mowed down'. 15 different varietals are carefully being watched for their response to the hundreds of microclimates the hilly property provides. Everything is picked and fermented in small lots, allowing maximum freedom for the winemaker to craft his blends. It is an intentional place, both in the vineyard and in the family-like atmosphere of the 27 employees (including a directly hired vineyard crew.) While we were walking through the winery itself, the employees of Michel-Schlumberger were breaking out their potluck to celebrate the end of harvest. With just a few tons of Cabernet still hanging in the vineyards the picking and crushing were almost done, and the genuine joy and pride of the teams' work was being celebrated.

The wines we tasted also had an intentionality to them that was incredibly appealing. A delicious Pinot Blanc was refreshing and crisp, with enough fruit in the nose to entice, and enough interest on the palate to keep you going back. The Le Sage Merlot was spectacular, obvious notes of cherry and chocolate identify the varietal, but the acidity and florality of the palate provide a delicate beauty. Their Zinfandel also seems to be bursting with fruit, but fresh fruit. Their vineyard and vinification practices avoiding any gloppy, bombastic unpleasantness. And finally we tasted a 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, that while certainly displaying retracted fruit, had a striking freshness to the color, and ample tannic structure to continue. The leather and smoke were advancing in a delicious way, and the wine was certainly standing the test of time.

This is the type of winery that gets me excited. It is authentic, it is slightly idealistic, and it is a group of people who come together to form a family around their endeavour. They are striving to do things right by their product, by their label, by the land they are responsible for, and by their consumers. The results are delicious, distinct, and affordable. So in their idealism they are succeeding, which is precisely what I want to experience in both drinking a wine, or when introducing non-vinophiles to a beautiful afternoon in Sonoma.