Police checkpoint in Dili

The police are running checkpoints around Dili in a bid to clamp down on the carrying of illegal weapons. Police are also checking for correct motorcycle and vehicle documents.

I was riding pillion on the back of a friend’s motorcycle on the airport road yesterday, near Dili Backpackers. We came to a checkpoint and the police were pulling over all motorcycles and asking to see documents. I was told that without the correct documentation, the police have the authority to confiscate a person’s motorbike.

My friend didn’t have the correct document, but he did manage to sneak off when the police weren’t looking. I certainly wouldn’t recommend taking such action. The checkpoints are there for a purpose, but if people don’t have the correct documentation and a license, I wonder if they would do a quick U-turn and find another route.

According to a mailout by the US Embassy, the following checkpoints have been installed around Dili and are, supposedly, in operation from 8 pm to 10 pm and from 2 am to 5 am. We came across a checkpoint in the afternoon and so perhaps the times are actually 8 am to 10 am and 2 pm to 5 pm.

1. Pantai Kelapa intersection (in front of the Indonesian food restaurant)

2. Residence of the American Embassy (Management Officer): At Bidau Santana intersection

3. City Cafe Restaurant: location at ANZ intersection

4. Government Palace location at old Post office

5. Audian in front of TOP ONE (Residence of the Secretary of State for security)

6. Aitarak Laran intersection (in front of the Pertamina, Micro Finance office)

7. Kolmera intersection (Road to Hotel Timor and Government Palace)

Dancing in Timor-Leste

No matter where you are in Timor-Leste or what you’re doing, there is always a good chance that you might stumble upon dancing. The Timorese love to dance. Everyone from the youngest of children to the oldest of women likes nothing better than to have a boogie – and all they need to get them started is a drum.

The tebedai dance is a traditional Timorese dance performed on ceremonial occasions. Usually two male drummers will bang out a beat on a single drum while some of the older women clang gongs, spades or anything metallic than makes a noise when hit. Some of the older dancers might be kitted out in traditional Timorese dress complete with tais (fabric made by traditional Timorese weaving). Everybody forms a circle, linking arms and marching while singing.

During other ceremoneis the men might hop around and groove to the beat while the old women shuffle about and wave pieces of tais. Some people also dance with leaves and branches, waving them in the air.

While the tebedai is comes from old local tradition, Timor’s next generation of dancers have their own moves. A Timorese disco is one of the loveliest spectacles you could ever wish to see. Booming soundsystems belch out Portuguese pop songs. After spending a few weeks in Timor it’s difficult not to become familiar with the locals’ favorite songs; there seems to be only about half a dozen that meet the Timorese level of approval.

More dancing, from Manetu in Ainaro

At a Timorese disco, a few people might bop along by themselves, but the majority of the action is done in pairs. At the beginning of each song, boys and girls will give a nod or a gesture to someone they want to dance with and the duo will then meet on the dance floor.

The boy’s right arm goes lightly around the girl’s waste and the girl usually rests her left hand on the boy’s shoulder. The free hands meet outstretched like a human teapot and the dancing begins. No matter how fast or slow the song, the feet move in unison and the dancers slowly shuffle around with the male leading.

Feet move in a left-left-right-left-left-right pattern, repeated over and over until the song ends, at which point the couples disperse and move to the edges of the room to wait for the next song. The process repeats with everyone choosing new partners.

Foreigners are welcome to dance at Timorese discos, but getting the groove takes a little practice. If you ever hear music at night, follow that sound and see where you end up.

Dili Backpackers is Dili’s premiere guesthouse, while Hotel Timor is the most lavish Dili hotel. Most of these Dili hotels don’t have a website so if you want to make a reservation, emailing is probably your best option. Failing that a phone call should be able to nab you a room in Dili without too much confusion.

Here’s our roundup of some of the hotel in Dili vying for your attention.

The Plaza Hotel & Serviced Apartments
Address: Avenida Presidente Nicolau Lobata
Tel: +670-7232438
Email: plaza_dili@hotamil.com
Price: $70 a night or $1,000 a month
Number of rooms: 30
Perks: Hot water, aircon, tea-making facilities, fridge, Internet access, daily housekeeping, laundry
Notes: Simple, safe and a bit expensive. Accommodations have a double bedroom, bathroom and dining area.

Tropical Hotel
Address: 28 Avenida Presidente Nicolau Lobato
Tel: +670-3325084
Email: tonypitonglay@yahoo.com.au
Price: $40 a night for a double room, $30 a night for a single
Number of rooms: 33
Perks: Fridge, aircon, television, hot water, laundry, daily breakfast.
Notes: Decent accommodation. Hotel has a restaurant and bar.

Hotel Turismo
Address: Rua Direitus Umanus, Bidau Lecidere
Tel: +670-3310555
Email: hotelturismo_04@yahoo.com
Price: $30 to $75
Number of rooms: About 50
Perks: Aircon, fridge, television, bathroom, fan
Notes: A hotel with character. Also has a restaurant and bar.

Hotel Luz Clarita
Address: Rua Travessa Befonte
Tel: +670-3310908
Email: luzclaritatimor@yahoo.com
Price: $60 a night for a suite room, $45 for a standard with king-size bed
Number of rooms: 30
Perks: Aircon, hot water, television, bathroom, laundry, daily breakfast
Notes: Hotel where a lot of UN staff stay. Has a common room with a widescreen TV and DVD player.

Central Garden Hotel & Restaurant
Address: Avenida Presidente Nicolau Lobata
Tel: +670-3323888
Email: centralhoteltl@yahoo.com
Price: $30 for a single room ($38 with Internet), $40 for a double ($48 with Internet)
Monthly rate is $400/$500/$500/$600
Number of rooms: 21
Perks: Aircon, fridge, television, breakfast
Notes: Has a bar and restaurant. Cheap, decent food.

Hotel Timor
Address: Rua Martires da Patria
Tel: +670-3324502
Email: hoteltimor@foriente.minihub.org
Price: $135 to $250 a night
Number of rooms: 88
Perks: Minibar, television, aircon
Notes: Dili’s premier luxury hotel

Sands Motel
Address: Avenida Martires da Patria
Tel: +670-3324879
Email: sandsmotel_dili@yahoo.com
Price: $25 a night for a single, $35 for a double
Number of rooms: 11
Perks: Aircon, fridge, television, bathroom, hot water, laundry, daily breakfast
Notes: Cheap, cheerful and simple

Dili Backpackers 231
Address: Almirante Rua de Thomas Americo
Tel: +670-7238121
Email: venture_hotel@hotmail.com
Price: 3 dorms (6, 4 and 2 beds) at $10 a night, rooms at $15 to $20 a night
Number of rooms: 5 plus the dorms
Perks: Aircon
Notes: Backpacker heaven. Around for seven years and still going. Lots of travel information and can rent bikes from $15 a day. Also has a restaurant and bar.

Rhochella Café
Address: Avenida Presidente Nicolau Lobata
Tel: +670-7245301
Email:
Price: $25 a night (doubles and singles available)
Number of rooms: 9
Perks: Toilet, daily breakfast, aircon, television
Notes: Also has a restaurant and bar. A place worth staying.

Hotel Dili
Address: Rua dos Direitos Humanos
Tel: +670-3313958
Email: reservation@hoteldili.com
Price: $61.50 for a standard single, $71.50 for a standard twin
Number of rooms:
Perks: Cable television, bar fridge, aircon, hotel water, bathroom with open veranda
Notes: Breakfast included. Also has broadband Internet access.

Farol Hotel
Address: Rua Governador Serpa Fosa M-95, Farol
Tel: +670-3313525; +670-7234218
Email: farolhotel@yahoo.com
Price: $45 to $70 per night
Number of rooms: 20
Perks: Television, aircon, fridge, desk, chairs, DVD player, hairdryer, clothes press, hot water
Notes: Has a Chinese restaurant

Oceanview Beach Hotel
Address: Aldiea Metin 1, Bebonuk, Comoro
Tel: +670-7236041
Email: southerlee@hotmail.com
Price: Price on application
Number of rooms: 16
Perks: Bathroom, fridge, television, aircon
Notes: Located on the beachfront. Has a restaurant and bar.

Hotel Esplanada
Address: Avenida de Portugal (Beach Rd)
Tel: +670-3313088
Email: admin@hotelesplanada.com
Price: $110 per night
Number of rooms: 34
Perks: Satellite television, wireless Internet, laundry
Notes: Has a swimming pool, restaurant and bar

One of the best places to start is with the Peace Crops East Timor Tetun Language Course book. It was written to accompany working with a tutor, but it’s a handy reference tool to work through even on your own so long as there is someone you can practice your pronunciation with from time to time.

The book costs $17.50 and is available at a number of copy shops around Dili. There are lots of copies at the Sylvia copy shop just down the road from the Vila Verde restaurant, near Tropical Bakery and the Ministry of Interior.

The book starts right at the beginning and is a great resource to have. It may be a little expensive, but it is almost 350 pages long.

There is also a Lonely Planet East Timor Phrasebook that was first published in 2001. Although it’s a tiny book, it’s crammed full of useful examples and a basic dictionary in the back. The Peace Corps book is large and heavy and nobody is going to want to carry that around in their pocket, so a phrase book is worth having on the side. Likewise Lonely Planet’s guide to East Timor has some basic phrases in the back.

There are, of course, lessons in Tetun offered in Dili. People say good things about the one-week crash courses offered by Dili Institute of Technology. They cost $120, but are only available during certain weeks. You have to book in advance and you can find more information by emailing tetundit at gmail dot com. There are three different courses available: absolute beginner, beginner mid and intermediate.

Tetun, which is similar to Portugese, is relatively straightforward to pick up. There are a number of languages spoken in East Timor. Each of the 13 districts has its own. Portuguese, Indonesian and English are also spoken. The main language spoken in Timor-Leste is Tetun, of which there are two main forms: Tetun Terik and Tetun Dili. Tetun Dili is the one that’s most useful to people visiting Timor and it’s the language focused on in the Peace Corps study book.

The beach in Dili just below the Jesus statue

There was a NY Times article a few years ago that said that Dili has beaches like Bali. While it would be great to be so positive about Dili’s beaches, they aren’t quite on a par with Bali’s, but they’re pretty close. Dili isn’t your typical beach destination. Unlike in Bali, you won’t be hassled by people selling coconuts and peanuts and henna tattoos and massages – not yet anyway. A trip to a beach in Dili is a quiet, reserved affair.

East of Dili Harbor, the beaches start off uninspiring and rocky. The further out toward the Jesus statue you go, the more serene the setting becomes and you can start to see where the comparisons with Bali come from. As you make your way round to in front of Caz Bar, you come to a stretch that’s popular on weekends and evenings.

Go out even further toward Cape Fatucama and you have white sand, lapping waves and no people. It’s so refreshing to be in such a seaside spot and not have dozens of other beachgoers vying for the same spot of sand. For people who enjoy lazing about on a golden beach, Dili has a few notable stretches.

Even better is the area on the other side of the Jesus statue, which requires some tricky traversing along the road up the hill and back down again, or else you can walk up the steps to the Jesus statue and then sneak through to the beach on the other side. The swimming isn’t great, though, because there are so many rocks.

West of Dili Harbor out to Dili Club and beyond the beach is reasonable, getting better the further you go. Try going all the way out past the airport up to Tasitolu where the Pope statue is located. There are some great beaches out there and you will only have birds and fish for company. You can take a mikrolet most of the way or else catch a cab.

Kids will scream “Malae!” from the side of the road while other people will use it in the place of a name. It’s also commonly used to refer to people. Being called malae is a usually a show of respect and most Timorese would frown at the idea of any foreigner being offended at being addressed in this way.

The statue of Pope John Paul II in Dili

There’s nothing more to see in the area other than the statue other than the three large lakes beneath it and the beach. The view from the hill is grand and worth making the trip for. On the road leading to the hill there are stalls selling drinks and snacks. If you’re walking you will need something to drink.

The steps up to the statue are all part of the challenge and are reminiscent of the steps leading up to Cristo Rei.

There’s also a small house that looks decidedly out of place in the middle of baron land. The house was built specifically for the pope to stay in when he was in Timor-Leste.

The large bronze statue was inaugurated on June 15, 2008. The pope was the only world leader to visit Timor-Leste during the fight for independence. Reports suggest that the visit strengthened ties between the resistance and the church. The balance in the power struggle between Indonesia and the resistance in Timor-Leste shifted slightly with the pope’s decision to visit Timor-Leste.

It was a real boon for the people of Timor that the pope visited the tiny state. Timor-Leste was thus singled out as a separate entity to Indonesia, some said. Bishop Carlos Filipe Ximenes Belo maintains that John Paul II kept a close relationship with Timor-Leste after his visit and so he is remembered with this statue.

The joint is Chinese-run and the place is usually empty. Those guys have put a lot of effort into recreating the Western fast food experience, plastic seats and all, but no matter how hard they try, the whole setup will always look a bit odd in Dili.

On my visit there were three Chinese people: a girl who looked as if she’d just taken a shower, another girl who was doing her hair in a mirror and a guy who took my order but was unsure how to use the till. The two Timorese staff looked confused by the whole thing. They were all happy and surprised to see me.

The food is cheap enough. A burger with fries and a Coke is $3.50. Dare I say it: the burger tasted better than a McDonald’s hamburger. The whole experience was inoffensive and if were a bigger fan of fast food I’d go back there every day just to dig the staff there. The location isn’t ideal so it’s anyone’s guess how long Brothers Burger will be around.

You have to go just so you can say you’ve been.