The Waikiki Wanderer

Waikiki Wanderer Returning

2012-05-09T09:13:00.000-10:00

After a long siege, lasting well over a year (and not quite finished just yet) the Waikiki Wanderer will be returning at waikikiwanderer.com. The blog will no longer be hosted at Blogspot, but all the old posts will be retained. The focus of the blog will change, too. See the new site for more information, coming around June or July 2012.

Blog Discontinued

2011-05-25T11:02:00.004-10:00

The Waikiki Wanderer has been slowly but surely building up a nice weekly readership, something we greatly appreciate.

Unfortunately, we must disappoint our loyal readers by announcing the discontinuation of this blog after only five months of publication. A sudden, unexpected and serious health issue prevents walking the streets on a daily basis in search of stories and photos. This makes further publication impossible, at least for the foreseeable future. This leaves Waikiki again without a full-time, dedicated blog.

However, we've noted that the most popular columns by a very large margin have been the restaurant reviews. As we're still able to do these, we'll be launching a new column called "Oahu Dining Info" which will be found at oahudining.info. We hope you'll drop by, beginning later in 2011 or early in 2012.

Review: Makittii Japanese Seafood Buffet

2011-05-22T00:01:00.001-10:00

This month's restaurant review appears a week later than usual due to our special Neighborhood Board feature last week.

Makittii Japanese Seafood Buffet is located on the mauka side of Kuhio, opposite Ka`iulani Avenue, on the site of the former Perry's Restaurant.

When Perry's closed somewhat suddenly last summer (2010), we witnessed one of the fastest construction jobs we've ever seen in Waikiki. Makittii rose from the ashes of Perry's in just a few short weeks and opened in record time.

We visited just after opening, and there were some startup problems to be worked out, so we returned again quite recently. Makittii, after a number of months of operation, is still tuning its business model.

Whereas previously there was a fixed dinner price of $32.95, there are now two options. If you want lobster and prime rib along with the buffet, the price remains $32.95 and a 20% kama`aina discount is available. If you're willing to skip the lobster and prime rib, the price drops to $18.95, although no
discounts or coupon deals apply to the lower price. Drinks are extra at $2.95 for cold drinks and $2.00 for hot beverages.

The buffet selections are quite extensive and varied. There are the Japanese items that you would expect, such as sushsi and tempura; there are also a surprising number of Chinese items like pot stickers, choi sum and others.

The big attraction, of course, is king crab--- piles and piles of it.

Then there's garlic ahi, teriyaki chicken, roast beef, roast pork, all manner of shrimp ... it goes on and on; there's a grill-to-order station featuring beef and pork, and an extensive dessert bar. We doubt that we covered even a fourth of the items ourselves.

How's the quality? We found the sushi didn't taste fresh and the poke was overly salty. The roast beef was "well done" if not beyond that, and was somewhat fatty. The grilled-to-order beef was very good, as were the pot stickers. The crab was outstanding.

The rest of the dishes that we tried were pretty average, certainly not bad if not quite exceptional, either. The desserts lacked appeal to a Western palate; it was again a situation of not so bad but nothing special.

Overall, we thought there was a lot of value in the $18.95 menu as long as you're not looking for top quality or utter freshness of ingredients.

We did have some issues with the service. We arrived just after dinner opened, and even though most of the tables inside were empty, we and everyone else had to give our names and wait 15 minutes or so to be seated. This was probably because the restaurant is seriously understaffed. After we were seated, it was another little while before our drink orders were taken. The staff were nice enough and tried hard to be helpful, but there just weren't enough of them to go around.

Makittii has a tie-in with the Sanrio "Hello Kitty" franchise, and you see Hello Kitty items around the restaurant. "Hello Kitty" arrived in person during the evening, to the great delight of kids, whose parents paid extra for a photo of their child with this popular character.

Do we recommend Makittii? It's truly an odd place. For a while, they seemed to try hard to attract Japanese clientele--- but at the time, they offered a 20% discount to residents of North America. If you were Japanese, sorry, you paid full price. That struck us as a really backwards marketing strategy. Today, with their reduced-price menu offering, they seem to want to attract anyone who is willing to come.

But, yes, we do recommend Makittii for a satisfying meal that, by Waikiki standards, is moderately priced. It's definitely not upscale dining, but it doesn't pretend to be. The restaurant still has some things to work out; maybe they will, maybe they won't--- progress has been slow--- but that shouldn't stop you from giving it a try, especially if you happen to be really hungry.

Neighborhood Boards: They're All About Communication--- Um, Well, Aren't They?

2011-05-15T00:01:00.003-10:00

The Waikiki Neighborhood Board Met on May 10, 2011

The concept of the "Neighborhood Board" in Honolulu County is an interesting and worthy one. The idea is that a group of elected representatives get together every month in an advisory rather than a legislative or decision-making capacity. They hear reports from various County and local agencies, ask questions, and provide input.

There are a number of such boards on O`ahu; Waikiki has one, Neighborhood Board #9. To bring the concept closer to the citizenry, the Neighborhood Boards have subdistricts; Waikiki has three of them. Board members are elected for a term of two years. In Waikiki, an election is currently in process in all three subdistricts.

Members of the Waikiki Neighborhood Board During a Meeting

Candidates for election publish brief personal statements. These statements appear on the Internet, on the website of the Neighborhood Commission Office (NCO) and in printed material sent by mail to voters.

The first thing we noted was that statements were brief indeed and contained no contact information. Some candidates provided no statement at all.

We thought we should explore this issue further, so we contacted the NCO and asked for contact information for the candidates, stating that we wanted to poll them for further information about their candidacies. The response we received absolutely astounded us.

The NCO told us, very politely but in clear terms, that since Neighborhood Board positions were unpaid, voluntary, and non-decision-making, it was their policy not to release contact information. Elected candidates had the option, but not the obligation, to publish contact information on the NCO website.

In other words, Neighborhood Boards bring government down to the people--- except if you'd like to contact the candidates who want to represent you.

Not All Members Attend Each Meeting

Despite the NCO's refusal to provide contact information, we developed it on our own, and chose Subdistrict 3 to test things a little further. We wrote to each of the six candidates in Subdistrict 3, soliciting a more detailed candidacy statement and promising to publish whatever we received. We only got one response, and Mr. Frankie Kam's statement and photo appear at the end of this story.

To be fair, at least minimal contact information for each currently sitting member of the Waikiki Neighborhood Board appears on the NCO website. Some members give just an email or a phone number; some others give more detailed information.

But what can we conclude from all of this? An open, neighborhood-oriented representation process apparently is only open to a certain degree. The NCO won't provide more than the bare minimum of candidate information, some candidates provide none at all, and many candidates apparently don't want to be contacted.

An Address on Homelessness at the May 10 Meeting

Is there something wrong with all of this?

We answer that question with an emphatic "Yes."

But in any event, thank you Mr. Frankie Kam for taking the time to send us a detailed candidacy statement, which we're more than pleased to present below.

Mr. Frankie Kam, Candidate for Waikiki Neighborhood Board Subdistrict 3:

My name is Franklin "Frankie" Kam and I'm of third generation Immigrant stock, born in Waipahu, Hawaii on October 19, 1940 as both of my grandparents; Kam Tong on my father, Francis side and Lum on my mom, Thelma's side were from Canton, China and contract sugar plantation laborers plus farmers too (Kam Tong, 30 acre rice farmer & Lum, lotus root farmer) My parents Francis & Thelma were from big, 10-children families, where everyone worked hard and grew up in rural Waipahu, where "Sugar was King" in their days. My mom, Thelma tended to her one woman grocery store in Waipahu across from the Waipahu Sugar Mill and my dad, Francis took car of our hog slaughterhouse business ,receiving farmers with their livestock during the day and he started the boiler at night for the slaughtered hogs, pushed into a tank of hot water before being pulled on a table to have the hairs scrapped off and then, my father's younger brother, Albert "Yunny"would slit the hog carcasses in half and he then shoved them off to the Agricultural Inspector for his approval that the 1/2 carcasses would be okay for the markets. The insides on the 1/2 carcasses: heart, stomach, intestines and liver would be checked and my mom would wash them out with water to be sold in her grocery store. My parents grocery store was called New Hing Chong Store and their hog slaughterhouse was called New Hing Chong Slaughterhouse as they added the word "New" when they bought both businesses for $600.00 from the original owners.

I did go to public school, August Ahrens School on Waipahu Street but my parents switched me to Saint Joseph Catholic School, when I cried a lot after I found out that I wouldn't be with my neighbors: Mae and Michael Minagawa, who walked with me to school, in starting 2nd grade but I had to redo first grade at Saint Joseph's school and graduated there in 1955. I then went to Saint Louis High School and graduated there in 1959, when Hawaii became the 50th State! I later graduated from Chaminade University in 1964 with a B.A. in History.

As a candidate for the Waikiki Neighborhood Board, I do have a lot of volunteer work experience with a First Lady Volunteer Award in 1989 for my work as Neighborhood Watch Coordinator signing up everyone in my Alii Plantation community for this Neighborhood Watch Program with Honolulu Police Department from 1987-89 that included a men's Softball Team that I coached and opponents included Governor Waihee, Mayor Fasi, Hungry Lions Celebrities (Tom Selleck a member) Saint Louis 59ers, Crosspointe and Foster Village. In North Carolina, I started a Community Watch Program in 1995 working with Sheriff Randy Cartwright. Here in Waikiki, I've been involved with Kanu Hawaii regarding a Special Election for Congress (Colleen Hanabusa), Ballot Box Station 2010, Abercrombie for Governor Region 2 Volunteer and Organizing for America, Hawaii Democratic Party Member 2010-101. I am the author of 'Above The Clouds," Xlibris, my 19th poetry book and I have a Ainahau59 Blog. Please Vote For Me For The Waikiki Neighborhood Board! That would be "Shaka Hooray!"

9th Annual Spam Jam

2011-05-08T00:01:00.003-10:00

The 9th Annual Waikiki Spam Jam took place last Saturday afternoon and evening (April 30, 2011). Though seemingly smaller than some previous editions, it was by any measure a great success, with thousands of visitors and kama`aina in attendance.

As usual, part of Kalakaua Avenue was blocked off; this year it was just a few blocks, but that was more than enough to cause a Spam Jam traffic jam.

There were just two performance stages, but the entertainment was top-rate, with all sorts of local artists participating. Kahiko hula was featured in the performance shown below; throughout the afternoon and evening, just about every form of Hawaiian music and dancing was on display, to the great delight of the crowds.

The theme was Spam and everything Spam. One of the volunteer workers at the party wore a unique Spam-themed hat.

Attendees could also pick up a great variety of Spam-related merchandise, including a huge choice of Spam tee shirts.

Of course, there was no lack of Spam on the menu of the numerous participating food vendors. A Spam cheeseburger, perhaps?

Or perhaps some Spam-flavored macadamia nuts? We hadn't seen these before, so we tried them; let's just say their taste is "unique."

Statistics show that Hawaiians consume about twice as much Spam per-capita as mainlanders. Conventional accounts trace this back to World War II, with GIs bringing the product with them as they passed through Hawai`i on their way to the Pacific Theater. Spam is actually produced in Minnesota, a state about as unlike Hawai`i as we can imagine.

Tourists delight to Spam and eggs breakfast menu options at local fast food restaurants, but Hawaiians take it in stride. It's not surprising that Spam is sometimes called "Hawaiian steak."

The 9th Annual Spam Jam was a terrific event and an enjoyable time for everyone. That it's a good thing for tourism is self-evident, and we congratulate the organizers on a job well done. Here's to next year!

Briefly Noted

2011-05-01T00:01:00.002-10:00

At the start of each month,we present a series of photos with brief commentary. This month our theme is "nearly new."

Teddy Bear World isn't all that new, but by any account it's a great addition to the Waikiki scene. A moderately-priced family attraction, Teddy Bear World features displays and collections of--- what else--- teddy bears. A substantial kama`aina discount is offered, something we always appreciate. It's on Kalakaua in the `Ewa end of Waikiki.

Hard Rock Cafe recently moved from Kalakaua to a new Beachwalk location. It's a move that took a lot longer than anyone expected, but the new quarters look really attractive.

Quite new on Kuhio Avenue in mid-Waikiki is Zero's NY Pizzeria. It still has a bit of that "under construction" look but we're sure that will soon be cleaned up. We're anxious to see if real New York pizza has indeed come to Waikiki.

We reported on Marukame Udon a couple of weeks back; it still has long waiting lines. Small wonder; it's one of the best values in the district.

And finally, after "coming soon" for what seemed like almost two years, Kuhio Pharmacy has opened its doors at the `Ewa end of Kuhio Avenue.

May's mystery photo features this elegant statue. Can you give its location? Yes, it's in Waikiki, but you'll need to be a little more specific.

April's mystery photo was certainly of the Ala Wai, but we wondered if you could tell us where it was taken. It's at the far Diamond Head end, looking in the `Ewa direction, just makai of the library buildings. That was easy, wasn't it?

Honolulu Star-Advertiser Opens Waikiki Bureau

2011-04-24T00:01:00.004-10:00

A Star-Advertiser Vending Machine in Waikiki

The Honolulu Star-Advertiser recently announced the formation of a Waikiki Bureau, to be headed by veteran journalist Allison Schaefers. We contacted Ms. Schaefers, and she was gracious enough to take time from a very busy schedule to grant us an interview.

WW: How did the idea to start a Waikiki bureau come up, and how long has it been in the making?

AS: The excitement surrounding the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC), a high-level summit that will bring heads of states from 21 economies to Waikiki in November, was definitely a factor in the opening of the Waikiki Bureau. The opening also signifies the Star-Advertiser’s commitment to making sure that its readers are well-informed about what goes on in the state’s economic engine and how those developments affect their own lives. We’ve been planning this bureau since the beginning of the year, but we just opened the office in late March. Our coverage is a work in progress and will continue to evolve based on the needs and desires of our readers.

WW: What are the goals of the Waikiki bureau? What kind of reporting can we expect to see?

AS: We want to be the definitive source for Waikiki news. Coverage will range from business stories to features and news stories about the people that live, work and visit Waikiki. When you think about it, Waikiki is really the backyard for everyone in Hawaii. Since the district is ground central for tourism, it influences global perceptions of Hawaii and provides the bulk of the state tourism revenue and tax collections that are tapped across all islands. What happens in Waikiki affects nearly everyone in this state in one way or another so we want to provide substantive reporting that interests and informs readers.

WW: In the Star-Advertiser we read that the Waikiki bureau wants to be "the voice of Waikiki." What does this mean to you, and how will you accomplish this?

AS: Waikiki always has made tourism news; however, it has sometimes been overlooked when journalists are collecting fodder for stories about real isle people and topics that concern them. The Honolulu Star-Advertiser is invested in Waikiki and we want to be good neighbors by making sure that we provide a forum for all voices in the district to be heard.

WW: What's your own background in Waikiki and Waikiki reporting?

AS: I have covered state tourism for eight years often focusing on Waikiki. I have gotten to know many of the leaders and workers in the district’s hospitality industry and now am looking forward to meeting more residents and guests. Last year, I completed a reporting package that looked at the impact of homelessness on tourism in Waikiki. The piece earned a national reporting award from the Society of American Business Editors and Writers (SABEW) who selected it as one of the best explanatory journalism pieces submitted for the their 2010 best in business contest.

WW: Is there anything else you'd like to add?

AS: When I was a little girl, my mother told me to find a career that I liked and then it would never seem like work. She knew a lot about this topic because she too was a journalist... I grew up playing in newsrooms and learning about accountability as the fruits of her labors were discussed around town and at our dinner table.

I’ve been working as a paid journalist for about 23 years and I’ve never wanted to do anything else. I consider it a privilege to work for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser and for all of our readers.

Our industry has suffered in recent years, but I still believe that I, and the young people who are coming after me, will have a future in this profession. The way that we deliver the news may change with the times, but our job continues to be important.

I’m proud to work for a newspaper owner, David Black, who is still bullish on print journalism and believes that newspapers continue to be a vital part of the democratic process. I’m thankful to work for editors who care about quality and alongside colleagues who give it all that they’ve got day after day.

Professional Biography of Allison Schaefers

(photo courtesy Honolulu Star-Advertiser)

Allison Schaefers, a three-time national award-winning reporter, covers Hawaii tourism and Waikiki for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser.

She joined Oahu Publications Inc. in 2003 as part of the business reporting staff of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin and stayed on after its consolidation with The Honolulu Advertiser. Prior to this, Schaefers was a staff writer for the Florida Times-Union in Jacksonville, Fla. where she covered the Amelia Island/Fernandina Beach beat. Earlier, Schaefers served as News Editor for the Camden County Tribune.

Schaefers has worked alongside the White House Press Corps during President Barack Obama’s many Hawaii visits. She has been published by the New York Times, the International Herald Tribune, Bloomberg and the Wall Street Journal.

She has been honored three times by the Society of American Business Editors and Writers (SABEW). This year her explanatory package on the impact of Waikiki homelessness on tourism was named among the best works in business among American journalists, as was her feature about the iconic Coco Palms. Last year, she was recognized by SABEW for her breaking news coverage of the last sugar haul at the now closed Gay & Robinson sugar mill on Kauai. Schaefers also has won more than 20 state journalism awards for writing, editing and photography.

An honors graduate of the Henry W. Grady School of Journalism at the University of Georgia, Schaefers has earned several professional and academic scholarships. Last year, she reported from China after being selected as a prestigious Jefferson Fellow at the University of Hawaii’s East West Center. In 2006, she reported from Cambodia during a partner fellowship with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and East West Center. She also has studied journalism in Italy and England, where she completed a project on journalism ethics.

Schaefers can be reached at (808) 218-6718 or by e-mail at aschaefers@staradvertiser.com. She would welcome story ideas about Waikiki.

The Waikikiki Wanderer Comments

We were delighted to see the Star-Advertiser open a Waikiki desk, not because we feel the media have neglected Waikiki, but because we think that the additional focus on our district will be a positive factor in helping Waikiki move into the future. We're also glad to see recognition of the oft-overlooked fact that 20,000 people call Waikiki home. More than just a storied tourist destination, honest-to-goodness Hawaiian residents do populate Waikiki in numbers that surprise visitor and kama`aina alike.

The Star-Advertiser's commitment to Waikiki is further underlined by their appointment of a senior, award-winning journalist to run the new bureau.

We especially appreciate Ms. Schaefers' statement that "What happens in Waikiki affects nearly everyone in this state in one way or another ..."

This is something not often acknowledged or even realized by many Hawaiian residents, who know Waikiki is a major tourist center but don't understand the economic influence the district exerts. We too like to think that what's good for Waikiki is good for Hawai`i.

We wish Ms. Schaefers and the new Waikiki Bureau much success. Waikiki faces many challenges, but if we all work together the future can be a bright one. Having the Star-Advertiser on board with this effort will give a great boost to Waikiki.

Dining in Waikiki: Marukame Udon

2011-04-17T00:01:00.001-10:00

Marukame Udon is one of the latest additions to the Waikiki restaurant scene. It opened on April 1 at the old Jack-in-the-Box location at 2310 Kuhio.

The relatively fancy exterior might lead you to think this is an upscale Japanese noodle restaurant, but it's not; in the main, it's a moderately-priced cafeteria-style eatery serving varieties of udon and tempura.

In the first couple of weeks of operation, we observed very long waiting lines for such a small restaurant, so we let the fervor die down a little and went there one afternoon for a late lunch. In mid-afternoon, we experienced no wait.

Niku Udon

We decided on the Niku Udon (a beef dish) in the "regular" size for $5.75, and the Curry Udon (also beef) for just $5.25 in the same size. The servings were more than enough for lunch, perhaps even dinner, and you'd have to be really hungry to eat all of the "large" bowl.

The udon noodles are made on-premises and that makes all the difference. We found them to be utterly fresh and with incomparable flavor. They were cooked to perfection, having that combined softness and solidity that is characteristic of really excellent udon.

The broth in the Niku had a nice lightness and a pleasing taste; it didn't have the watered-down quality of broth found at "Americanized" Asian restaurants, but it wasn't so heavy and strong as to interfere with the enjoyment of the noodles. The beef was average; we thought it a little bland.

Curry Udon

With Japanese curries, knowing what to expect is usually an open question. Marukame Udon's version of curry was full-flavored and rich without being overpowering. The broth had the slightly muddy mouth-feel of many a Far East curry; we didn't find that especially pleasing but on the other hand, we didn't leave any of it behind, either. The flavor complimented the noodles nicely enough, but we liked the broth in the Niku a little more.

From left: Inari (top), Mushroom-ten (lower), Nasu-ten, Asuparagus-ten

The Udon bowls are a real bargain, and lunch for two can be had for as little as around $12 without drinks or tempura. But once you start adding in a la carte side items of tempura, the cost of a meal definitely goes up substantially.

But first we tried the Inari, which was well-priced at $1.25. The tofu skin had a pleasant flavor and was not overly sweet, and the vinegary rice filling contrasted nicely.

We also tried tempura mushrooms; a small skewer of three mushrooms sold for $1.50. The batter was light and crunchy but had definitely suffered from sitting under a heat lamp.

The "asuparagus-ten" or asparagus tempura sold for $1.50 per stalk of asparagus, a price we consider close to outrageous. The asparagus was fresh and good; the batter also suffered the depredations of the heat lamp.

The Nasu-ten, or eggplant, for $1.25, wasn't so expensive but it wasn't good; the eggplant was mushy and tasted old, and the usual comment applies about the batter.

We didn't order drinks, instead taking advantage of copious self-serve pitchers of ice water. Lunch for two totalled $21; tax is included in the item prices and there is no tipping. Be aware that only cash is accepted.

At the time of our visit, the interior decor was still not quite finished and some construction debris remained. But when everything is done, which we suspect will be soon, Marukame Udon will be attractive inside and out. If you skip the tempura-- and you won't be missing much if you do--- and just eat the Udon, you'll have a very inexpensive, tasty, and filling meal.

Marukame Udon is set to position itself as one of the best noodle places in Waikiki, and at some of the most attractive prices to boot. Those long waiting lines may persist well beyond opening week, and with good reason. If you're a fan of good, fresh noodles served in excellent broth, this is definitely a place you'll visit again and again.

Crime!

2011-04-10T00:01:00.005-10:00

A recent story in the Honolulu Star-Advertiser spoke at some length about crime in Waikiki, particularly crime involving visitors. The upbeat story noted that crime is on the downswing. That's good news. No one goes on vacation to become a victim of crime.

The Star-Advertiser's positive spin was a welcome breath of fresh air, and we'd like to take that yet a step further. The newspaper story utilized the statistical reporting of the Visitor Aloha Society of Hawai`i (VASH) , which includes "unfortunate circumstances" in the stats. For instance, the 2010 figure of 1,701 incidents, down from 1,882 in 2009 but up from 1,613 in 2008, included 396 instances of illness and injury, and 120 instances of airfare/relocation (we're not really sure exactly what these are). This is a total of 516 incidents--- almost one-third--- that were not crime-related, and could and would have taken place elsewhere. We don't have year-over-year figures for true crime-related incidents, but we think that the net number for 2010, which comes out to 1,185, or roughly three per day, is hardly scandalous for a tourist destination as busy as Hawai`i.

Furthermore, these figures are statewide, so the impact in Waikiki is less, though we don't have a specific breakdown.

According to police reports, Waikiki is quite far from being the most crime-ridden area on O`ahu; this may come as a surprise to those kama`aina who sometimes view the district with what we feel is unwarranted disdain.

But it's even better than flat statistics indicate. Reducing personal risk in Waikiki is mostly a matter of common sense. Walking the streets at 3 AM is probably not prudent (though even then, the risk can be managed). Drinking into the wee hours in bars and clubs noted for brawling isn't a required activity on a visit here. While some crime victimization results from sheer bad luck, awareness of surroundings and simple prudence go a long way. We'll wager that nearly all tourists who observe these simple practices have very little trouble in Waikiki. And if unfortunate circumstances lead to a regrettable incident, that could have happened anywhere.

Enforcement and vigilance has certainly improved, as the newspaper points out. Plain-clothes and uniformed police regularly patrol Waikiki, and these days they seem more interested in crime prevention than busting jaywalkers (as they unfortunately appeared to be a few years back). Private security activity has stepped up. And we note that the visibility of prostitutes has declined--- we used to wonder why they walked the streets with near impunity not that long ago, easily spotted in their characteristic clear shoes by tourist and police officer alike.

We don't want to sugar-coat things excessively; there is crime in Waikiki and there are ongoing problems. But we can't go along with the view expressed by some locals that "Waikiki turns into a bad neighborhood at night"; and we wonder at the mainland media who characterize Waikiki as a "dangerous" destination.

Waikiki is beautiful, American, exotic and familiar all at once. And by and large, it's safe and secure. Let's make sure all our visitors and potential visitors know it.

Briefly Noted

2011-04-03T00:01:00.002-10:00

We begin the month with a few photos and some brief commentary.

We're delighted to say we've seen real progress with a few of the vacant properties we wrote about in an earlier column. Remember this, the old home of Jack in the Box on Kuhio?

It's now ready to become this, and we're anxious to try it out.

On the other hand, we found this on the mauka side of the Ala Wai near the canoe club. Not terribly attractive but at least it's in an area where most tourists won't see it.

And then there was this, at Makittii on Kuhio. Appreciation for earthquake support by giving North Americans 10% off while Japanese pay full price?

Though it's been photographed many times, who can resist another beautiful Waikiki sunset?

Did you identify last month's mystery photo? This lonely but elegant and well-tended palm tree is on the upper story of the International Market.

This month's mystery photo isn't much of a mystery. The challenge is instead to identify where it was taken. Do you know? We'll tell you next month.

Waikiki: Nine Walks Through Time

2011-03-27T00:01:00.005-10:00

A Waikiki Wanderer Book Review

Waikiki: Nine Walks Through Time, by Dr. Veneeta Acson, is everything a book about Waikiki should be. It's accurate, informative, entertaining, and above all, it's respectful.

There aren't really a lot of books currently in print about Waikiki (leaving aside pure tourist guides). A number of these are "coffee table" books, and though there are several that we'd call outstanding, we're afraid that many readers glance at the pictures and set the book back down.

But Nine Walks is a book that engages and even challenges the reader, to get out there on the streets and take the walks. While the book is interesting reading in and of itself, it's meant above all to be used, and it's written and arranged in such a manner as to make that easy to do.

Nine Walks Through Time was first published in 1983. Dr. Acson revised and updated the book in 2003. Much had changed in the interim. Waikiki is anything but static, and now a little of the content of the 2003 edition is out of date. For instance, the Waikiki Theatre, about which Dr. Acson waxes eloquent, has gone the way of Fong's Inn and other former landmarks. But the vast majority of the content remains fresh and relevant.

Walk V: Garden path, Tusitala Street

The walks consist of maps, photographs, and extensive, well-researched commentaries on various waypoints along the routes. The walks are in the one to two mile range and take about an hour and a half each, depending on walking speed and how much time is spent at each waypoint.

Walk I: Marker honoring Queen Lili`uokalani on the Ala Wai,

and part of the Waikiki Historic Trail

A walk along the Ala Wai canal begins the book; the adventure continues with a tour of the old Kalia area, once the location of fertile fields and ponds. The Early Royalty walk covers central Waikiki and includes a long stroll along the beach. The Miracle Mile walk takes the reader along Kalakaua Avenue, with an insightful look at the past and the present.

Walk I: `Apuakehau Stream meets the Ala Wai

The fifth walk, in central Waikiki and called Last Days of the Monarchy showcases locations related to the last rulers of the royal line. A walk on the Diamond Head side of Waikiki gives a view of local life today. The seventh walk covers Kapi`olani Park and the Honolulu Zoo.

Walk I: Canoes on the mauka side of the Ala Wai

Walk eight ranges outward to the foot of Diamond Head itself. The ninth and last walk is a purely delightful stroll along the sands of Waikiki, as fabled in film and song.

Walk V: In the Tusitala garden path

We could write at length about the high quality of the writing, the depth and accuracy of the historical research, the excellent photographs, the compelling descriptions, and everything else that goes into making this a wonderful book which everyone who visits or lives in Waikiki should have. But to us, what really makes this book something above and beyond the rest is the respect, even reverence, that the author shows for the land, the people, and their collective history.

Walk V: Tusitala is Samoan for "Teller of Tales"

and refers to Robert Louis Stevenson

Waikiki has been called a "concrete jungle" by some, and is unfortunately--- and we believe quite mistakenly--- regarded by many kama`aina as a place best avoided. But someone once told us that the mana, the spirit, of old Waikiki is still here. It's been covered over and buried underneath hotels and condos and all the rest, but it's still here, and it's still strong; you just have to search harder to find it.

Nine Walks in Time is a book that will lead you to the mana of Waikiki if you open your mind and heart. Take the walks. Take your time with them. Read what Dr. Acson has to say about each waypoint. It won't be long before you start to feel in touch with the things that made Waikiki special then, vital now, and ever unique in days to come.

Dining in Waikiki: Pho Old Saigon

2011-03-20T06:44:00.003-10:00

Vietnamese restaurants offering pho, the traditional soup with beef and noodles, abound in Honolulu. There are probably more pho restaurants than McDonald's, if we don't miss our guess. In Waikiki, the offerings are less numerous, but there are some. Recently we visited Pho Old Saigon, on the mauka side of Kuhio in the heart of Waikiki, between Seaside and Nohonani.

Pho Old Saigon has a very extensive menu, and we were only able to sample a couple of dishes this time around.

We started out with an order of cha gio, the popular Vietnamese egg rolls. We'll say that they were about average. They were nicely fried and attractively served, but somewhat bland in flavor, and we need to spice up our nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish sauce in which the egg rolls are dipped) with some hot chile sauce to give the egg rolls a needed lift. We noted that they were made with Chinese-style egg roll wrappers rather than with rice paper. The use of rice paper is typically Vietnamese, but making rice paper egg rolls is more costly and labor-intensive. An order of six egg rolls at Pho Old Saigon is $11.95, and they're listed on the menu as "spring rolls."

Of course, we had to try the pho. Out of a large number of options, we went with the one that most Americans seem to order, pho tai, or pho with slices of rare beef.

The pho was served with the traditional accompaniments: fresh herbs, chile slices, bean sprouts, etc. We mixed hoisin sauce and chile sauce to add to the broth, as is usual when eating pho.

We thought the flavor of the broth was too thin. Pho broth should have strength, but it is very common for Vietnamese restaurants who want to attract a mostly Western clientele to dilute the broth to suit what the chef thinks is Western taste. In our opinion this is always a mistake; strong, well-made pho broth is delicious and can't be matched by a thinner, less authentic version. A small bowl of pho, which is large enough for a very good meal, is $9.95.

We also ordered one of the special Vietnamese dishes, grilled pork with shredded pork and rice, or com tam bi thit nuong. This is definitely something to try if you want authentic Vietnamese cuisine. The grilled pork had a nice charcoal flavor without being dry. The shredded pork was, again, best described as "average." The dish on the whole was reasonably good though hardly outstanding. It sold for $11.95.

We complimented our meal with the popular Vietnamese iced coffee, ca phe sua da, for $4.95.

Pho Old Saigon claims to be the only Vietnamese restaurant in Waikiki, but that's not quite true, as you can get Vietnamese food in the International Market's food court. And if you're looking for the best O`ahu has to offer, you'll have to go outside Waikiki, to a place such as To Chau in Chinatown.

Pho Old Saigon offers reasonably good Vietnamese food, at a price noticeably higher than you'll pay outside of Waikiki. We can't say that the restaurant offers outstanding cuisine or an outstanding value, but if you want a sit-down Vietnamese meal and don't want to venture out of Waikiki, this is the place.

Note: In this story we did not render Vietnamese orthographical markings as they do not reproduce reliably on all browsers.

The Price is Right?

2011-03-13T00:01:00.011-10:00

A McDonald's in Waikiki

We've had many a tourist tell us that "everything in Hawai`i" is expensive; and some of those tourists have said that was the reason that they weren't going to come back again.

This is not what we want to hear. We need our tourists; we need new ones to visit, old ones to visit again, and everyone to tell their friends that they had a great time. All of us who live here share responsibility for making these things happen, if we want our state to thrive and prosper, and provide the jobs and opportunities that we'd like to have.

We don't agree that "everything in Hawai`i" is expensive, but if that's what someone thinks, it's an issue. So we decided to look into this a little, and today is the first in a series of columns which deal with various aspects of tourist-area pricing.

To start out our effort, we took a look at prices for a couple of standard items at the ubiquitous McDonald's and Starbucks chains. We picked three locations each: one in Waikiki, one elsewhere on O`ahu, and one on the mainland in an upper middle class suburb of Denver. Here's what we found out.

A Mcdonald's in Littleton, Colorado

A Big Mac at a McDonald's in Littleton, Colorado, will run you $3.79 (we're leaving out highly variable sales and excise taxes). A Big Mac sells for the exact same price, $3.79, at McDonalds on Dillingham in Kalihi. A large fries is $1.99 in Littleton and $1.99 in Kalihi. The Littleton prices and the Kalihi prices are exactly the same. We found this a little surprising but quite pleasing.

However, if you check in at the McDonalds on Kalakaua in Waikiki, you find a somewhat different story. There, a large fries is the same price as the other locations, $1.99. However, a Big Mac goes for $4.45. That's 70 cents, or roughly 18.5% higher than our Littleton, Colorado sampling; it's a pretty good markup, and considering that the Waikiki location is a busy one, it likely translates into some pretty good money.

A McDonald's in Kalihi

How about Starbucks?

A Starbucks in Littleton, Colorado

At one Starbucks in Littleton, Colorado, a grande brewed coffee is $1.95 and a grande latte is $3.30.

A Starbucks in Kaneohe

Those same drinks at a Starbucks in Kaneohe run $1.95 for the coffee, the same as Littleton, and somewhat higher for the latte at $3.55.

A Starbucks in Waikiki

Go to a Starbucks in Waikiki (the one on Kuhio near Food Pantry) and you'll pay $2.15 for the coffee, and $3.95 for that latte. The coffee is about 10 percent higher than the Colorado price, while the latte runs just short of 20 percent more.

But what's really the bottom line here? Businesses in Waikiki pay pretty hefty rents, and the only way to recover increased costs is with increased prices and/or increased volume with at least some profit margin. The volume is surely there in Waikiki, but without having available full financial information for the businesses in question, we can't really judge if the markups are more than necessary.

Our feeling is that a 20% premium in Waikiki just might fall in line with increased costs; a 10% premium surely does. We honestly don't see these Waikiki prices as instances of gouging. While we didn't collect the numbers, we know that Starbucks and McDonald's pricing in other expensive areas, such as Manhattan in New York City, reflects costs as well. None of this seems at all unreasonable.

We were very pleasantly surprised with the outcome of our little initial study. But why, then, do tourists tell us "everything" is expensive, if the data doesn't particularly support this?

We have a theory about that, and it's got to do with our observation that Waikiki in particular doesn't have a huge amount in the way of lower-end, less expensive options, whether for dining, lodging, or entertainment. But there's enough here to fill several more columns, so we'll save the rest for subsequent entries in this series.

Reporting on O`ahu by local staff, with additional reporting from our Littleton, Colorado correspondents.

Briefly Noted

2011-03-06T00:01:00.004-10:00

We begin the month with a few photos we found interesting. Here's a couple in the "we never thought they would last that long" category.

Puka Dog, at 2301 Kuhio, is certainly an original concept--- a hot dog with a hole in the bun, in which various fillings are placed--- but we never thought it would last. As the long waiting line above shows, it really caught on and we're happy to have been wrong about this one. The Waikiki location has been open since mid-2007.

And then there's Coconut Cafe, a little further east on Kuhio. Not very appealing from the outside, you wouldn't think it would have made it either, but it's been there for years, serving a menu of very reasonably priced coffees, smoothies, salads, sandwiches, and so on. We're so impressed that we plan a full report in one of our future restaurant review columns. Can't judge a book by its cover, we suppose.

OK, we'll bite, what's so dangerous?

It's this scary-looking construction site on the east side of Seaside. We wouldn't go very far into there if we were you ... who knows what's lurking in the darkness ...

And finally, this one was taken at a fast-food restaurant outside of Waikiki, making it a little out of scope, but it's too good to pass up.

So, want to sanitize your hands there?

Did you recognize our mystery photo from last month?

It's the very nice set of three reliefs on the `Ewa side of the Miramar Hotel, except one of them is missing, spoiling the effect. We hope it gets replaced; and could you trim the bushes while you're at it?

Here's the March mystery photo. You'll have little trouble IDing this one.

That's all for now, but we'd like to extend you an invitation: if you happen to be in Waikiki and see something unique or interesting, let us know or send us a photo. We're always on the lookout.

Shopping for Books in Waikiki

2011-02-27T00:01:00.003-10:00

Hawai`i has never been known, to our knowledge, as a Mecca for book lovers in the way mainland locations such as the Boston and San Francisco areas are renowned. While there are good bookstores around the islands, it's safe to say that the tally is more like a small handful than a large grouping.

So, what then are the prospects in Waikiki for the tourist (or resident) who wants a couple of "beach" books, or maybe something more substantial, like some scholarly Hawaiiana, local fiction, tourist guides, and other varieties of reading matter?

Those prospects have varied over time, but they were never great, and as of this writing, we're only able to find a single dedicated bookstore in all of Waikiki, and that's the Borders Express in the Royal Hawaiian Center.

Borders Express used to be in the Waikiki Shopping Plaza; it was once a Waldenbooks before that chain was bought out and converted. It has since moved across the street and down the block. We'll give them credit; it's a relatively small store, but it has a nice collection of Hawaiiana, from tourist guides to books on the Hawaiian language, some very high quality histories and commentaries, and quite a lot more.

They have a few books about Waikiki (there aren't tons of these in print, and the store stocks some representative entries).

The store isn't necessarily easy to find if you don't know about it or aren't looking for it; you're not likely to just "run into" it by accident. This may leave some visitors with the unfortunate and mistaken impression that there are no bookstores in Waikiki.

Indeed, there are no others, and it's all a bit of a sad tale. While we don't have the complete history (and please let us know if you can add some detail), we've heard there was once a Christian book store in Waikiki. There have also been some used bookstores; a man named Summers ran one on the second floor of the location below, at Ka`iulani and Kuhio, a few years back. It lasted a year or so, as we recall.

More recently the same ill-fated location (first floor this time) housed The Recycled Bookstore. It changed owners and moved to the rather unappealing location shown below on Prince Edward Street, but didn't last long there either and closed in January, 2011.

Then there was a branch of the locally-owned and operated Bestsellers Books and Records. At one time, Bestsellers had multiple O`ahu locations, with their "flagship" store downtown and even a branch at Honolulu International Airport. Their Waikiki location was in a little shopping plaza in Hilton Hawaiian Village and was called The Ohana Reading Room and Library. It opened in September, 2007 and closed in January, 2010. Bestsellers has since gone completely out of business, island-wide.

And as the saying goes, "That's all, folks."

If you're still with us, you may ask us if this is really is an issue that merits so much column space. It's a reasonable question, so please stay with us just a little longer.

Our view is that this does indeed matter, even though we'd be the first ones to admit that a hypothetical row of book stalls and shops along Kalakaua Avenue, a la the Seine in Paris, won't bring in droves of tourists seeking the latest Hawaiian history books.

But it still matters because we don't want Waikiki (and by extension, Hawai`i in general) to be viewed as a lowest-common-denominator tourist market, a sort of mindless Disneyland of popularized, inaccurate and sometimes demeaning representations of Hawai`i and Hawaiian culture. The presence of intellectually-oriented establishments, such as bookstores, goes a long way toward avoiding such an all-too easily acquired impression.

We believe, perhaps naively, that it is possible to appeal to a wide range of visitors and residents without compromise and without reducing our culture to pre-digested pap. In fact, we believe that striving for a higher intellectual level will add to our appeal, not reduce it.

The failure of one bookstore after another seems on the face of things to argue against our position. But bookstore failures are a nation-wide problem these days; even Borders itself has filed for bankruptcy and will be closing many stores (no O`ahu locations are scheduled for shuttering, but the neighbor islands stand to lose a couple of stores).

What we'd really like to see, and what we think would stand a good chance at success, is for a serious-minded Hawaiian operator, such as we see in Ward Centers at Native Books and Beautiful Things (who themselves once had a small shop at Hilton Hawaiian Village which, alas, did not sell books) take the chance with a Waikiki location. We think it would have great appeal and beneficial effect. Any takers out there?

In Search of Seafood: Blue Water Shrimp and Seafood Market

2011-02-20T00:01:00.002-10:00

Restaurant reviews generally appear on the third Sunday of each month.

This month's Waikiki restaurant review continues our series on the unexpectedly difficult search for top-quality fresh seafood eateries. We tried the Blue Water Shrimp and Seafood Market, located in the food court of Waikiki's International Marketplace, and we came away pleased. (Despite the name, it's definitely a restaurant and not a market.)

Located in a corner of the food court that used to house a pizza place, Blue Water offers a limited menu of familiar favorites. Like most food court restaurants, there's a walk-up counter where you order, pay, and then wait for your food. On our latest visit, the food court was packed, as there was a high-quality stage show going on and as with all the shows in the food court, admission was free. That's something we love to see because the tourists really appreciate a good, free show.

Blue Water dishes aren't free, but they are relatively inexpensive. We had the macadamia-crusted opakapaka which was covered with a spicy mango sauce, and came with rice, salad, a small piece of corn-on-the-cob, and a slice of pineapple.

The fish was delicious, with a crunchy crusting and a moist and tasty interior. We thought the mango sauce was a little too strong and heavy and tended to overwhelm the flavor of the fish, but we would definitely order this dish again, and it was a fine value at $12.95 for a very large serving.

We also tried one of the combos: steak and ahi.

The ahi was coated with furikake seasoning and grilled; while the ahi was of good enough quality, it was cut rather thin and got slightly over-cooked and dry. The steak was nicely marinated, flavorful, and tender without the loss of texture commonly found in meat dipped in tenderizer (we don't think this meat was so treated). It was grilled and served in medium-thick slices, and the combo dish came with the same accompaniments as the opakapaka. Once again, the portion size was huge and a steal at $13.95.

We were also impressed with the elegant presentation, with the dishes served on large, colorful hard plastic plates instead of the styrofoam that is ubiquitous at food courts.

The menu is not large and extensive, and there is no pretension at all in the food and service at Blue Water. But we're more than pleased with a small menu of dishes that are prepared well, and if we want pretension, it's readily available elsewhere--- at about three times the price.

We only wished that the music had been a little less loud and that we would have had less trouble finding an empty table. But happy crowds are what we want to see in Waikiki, so we're not complaining!

Blue Water is definitely worth your time and money, and we recommend that you give it a try and tell us what you think.

Unexpected Neighbors

2011-02-13T00:01:00.002-10:00

O`ahu is home to some first-class institutions of higher learning, and students come from around the U.S. and around the world seeking a good education and an enjoyable experience in our beautiful and friendly state.

Of course, they need an affordable place to stay while here, and for newcomers, student housing is often the first choice, as the idea of being with a group of fellow students appeals in terms of camaraderie, convenience, and safety. Student housing is of course offered by many of the universities and colleges. Student housing is also available through commercial enterprises; a group of student housing properties is, for instance, administered by King Realty of Honolulu.

One of these properties is the `Ohi`a, on Kuhio Avenue in Waikiki. It's a nice looking building and appears to be well-maintained. Room pricing is, at least by Waikiki standards, quite moderate, and the location can't be beat; it's an easy bus ride to major schools and all the activities and attractions of Waikiki are at hand, from surfing to dining and more.

It's the "more" part that we found interesting.

The `Ohi`a is at the corner of Kuhio and Nohonani. Just `Ewa of the `Ohi`a is a J&L Hawaiian Barbecue fast food restaurant. But go one more property in the same direction, and we find ... Hawaii by Night.

And just what is Hawaii by Night? It's not a night club or a tour agency, that's for sure. Think the letter 'X' in capitals, repeated about three times, and you'll get the picture (no pun intended).

Now, we're not here to make moral judgments about "adult" entertainment; to each his own, although we don't think Hawaii by Night is helpful in enhancing the family vacation aspects of Waikiki that are so important to tourism.

But we do have some questions about such an establishment being literally next door to student housing. It's not necessarily that students need to be "sheltered" from "adult" material; they're exposed to it in many places and in many contexts. Our concern is that "adult" establishments can attract some pretty creepy people. Is this the kind of neighbor that's suitable for a student dorm? If you were the parent of a 20-year old student, would this make you think twice about the `Ohi`a?

Realistically, Hawaii by Night isn't going to move and for that matter neither is the `Ohi`a. Somewhere along the line, though, somebody didn't do their homework, and it wasn't the students.

Briefly Noted

2011-02-06T00:01:00.001-10:00

On the first Sunday of the month,

we present a few photos taken around Waikiki,

with just a brief comment.

Well, it must be safe, or they wouldn't let them do it ... er ... right?

A dramatic Lion Dance at the International Market

celebrated the Chinese New Year

A Waikiki block party marked the return of the Pro Bowl to Hawai`i;

there was the usual giant traffic jam

TheBus did a great job ferrying fans from Waikiki to the Pro Bowl game

with a large number of special buses

And finally, our mystery photo for the month:

can you guess where the photo above was taken?

Last month's mystery photo was taken in the alley that runs between Kuhio and Kalakaua on the Diamond Head side of the International Market.
Rather a strange place for part of a Banyan tree,
which can be seen on the `Ewa side of the alley.

Sunset on the Beach

2011-01-30T00:01:00.001-10:00

Sunset on the Beach was in the past one of the more popular and successful activities in Waikiki. Taking place on Queen's Beach just before and after sunset, it would typically include a variety of food vendors, entertainment by a series of local performers, and a movie shown on a giant screen supported by a very good sound system.

Sunset on the Beach started around 2001 and in its heyday had an event just about every weekend. It was sponsored by the City and County of Honolulu, and it didn't take long for Sunset to become the target of budget cuts. These were held off for a while, though the events started to decrease in frequency; then Tesoro picked up sponsorship and all was relatively well for a little while.

When the recession came, though, Sunset receded along with it, and today we mostly see just the empty screen in the photo above. There are a few events, but not many. Back in the fall, there was the premiere of the new Hawaii Five-O which drew between 3,000 and 5,000 spectators (estimates vary) but was by any measure a success and a fine event, courtesy of CBS and additional sponsorship.

On Friday evening (January 28, 2011), Sunset on the Beach returned for the first time since the fall, as part of the weekend's Pro Bowl festivities (a Waikiki block party on Saturday evening was too late to cover for this week's press time). A football-related movie, Blind Side, was shown, and there were the usual food vendors (though they subjectively seemed to be fewer in number than usual) and stage entertainment. We only took photographs during the daylight portion of the event, but as you can see the crowds were building nicely in anticipation of another excellent event.

Sunset on the Beach is a great idea and an even greater draw. Tourists, after paying Waikiki's high prices for nearly everything, have been amazed that such a great evening is offered for free (we know; we've talked to some of them). Kama`aina come from all around, and there's little that tourists like better than spending time with the locals.

Now, we can't quantify just how much tourism money a Sunset evening brings in, nor have we found any studies that can tell us. But it seems rather intuitive that the events are a genuine plus, and it seems a shame that they are down in number to just a handful per year (we don't even see any more on the schedule right now).

Bean counters are paid to count beans and focus on a quantifiable bottom line, and it's no secret that Honolulu has serious budget issues. But we've just got to believe that making Waikiki tourists happy is really important, and that has to be worthy of investment. Taking a short-sighted view won't get us out of long-term trouble. We think Sunset on the Beach should return on a regular and frequent basis, and we're confident that the returns will justify the costs.

A Vast Emptiness

2011-01-23T00:01:00.003-10:00

You'll find vacant retail space in just about any market; of course, some places are much worse than others. There was a time (back around 1990, according to our research) that vacant retail space in Waikiki was more precious than diamonds. Today, it's hardly the same; though things are coming back, the 2008 recession took its toll here as it did elsewhere.

But our purpose in today's column isn't really to provide a numerical analysis of available square feet and trends. Instead, we want to do a little show and tell and talk about what we see as the impact of vacant buildings and storefronts. Frankly, we don't see anything like a "glut" of shuttered shops, and that's a good thing; but some of what we see, equally frankly, is unattractive and potentially harmful to the tourism upon which we depend. And that's not a good thing.

Perhaps one of the worst examples is the site on Kuhio that once was home to a Jack In The Box fast food restaurant.

For a while, this was merely an empty storefront. That's bad enough; but now, boarded up with plywood, it's taken on the look of a post-riot inner city. If you're a tourist, what are you supposed to think?

Or how about this massive vacancy--- just about all of King Kalakaua Plaza, where Banana Republic and others used to be.

Although a seasonal Toys R Us Express store was here for a few weeks, otherwise the whole complex seems to have gone under. Again, how is a visitor going to react? Will they conclude that they've stumbled into some sort of abandoned downtown area instead of the tropical paradise on which they thought they were spending their hard-earned money?

At least this site, the former movie theaters on Seaside, is at long (very long) last being made into a new Ross store.

It's not much to look at right now, and it doesn't help today's tourist to know that the store will open sometime later this year, but it's a welcome step in the right direction.

But one of our "favorites" at least in terms of being an example is on Kalakaua at the very `Ewa end of Waikiki.

The "new" Prince Kuhio Pharmacy has been "coming soon" for something like a year or more, with little obvious progress, although on our last visit we saw a few workmen on the site.

There are many attractive and well-kept retail locations in Waikiki. Proximity to boarded-up or seemingly abandoned or perpetually under-construction properties has to be harmful at some level, and clearly such a situtation is unfair to the large majority of vendors and owners who do keep up appearances.

But our point is simply this: eyesores and obvious evidence of lack of prosperity are not what we're selling to tourists, who want that special Hawaiian experience and are paying well to get it. If we want them to come back, and to tell their friends and neighbors about their great experience in Waikiki, we have to do better. We urge our civic and business leaders to pay close attention to the image being portrayed.

In Search of Seafood: The Cheesecake Factory

2011-01-16T00:01:00.005-10:00

Visitors come to Waikiki with the expectation of sun, surf, sand--- and seafood. It's a given in their minds that an island in the middle of the Pacific will have fresh and delicious seafood in plentiful, if not economical, abundance. And there's a lot of logic to back up these expections. After all, early Hawaiians depended a great deal on the sea for a critical component of their food supply.

But in our modern era nothing is simple and things are not always what they seem. Despite a plethora of restaurants in Waikiki that style themselves as "seafood" establishments, finding an outstanding seafood meal at a reasonable price is anything but a sure thing. Certainly, you can go to a restaurant and order seafood. But will it meet those high expectations that being in Waikiki generate? Will it be--- objectively, rather than subjectively--- better than what you might have gotten back home in Dallas or Minneapolis or Atlanta?

That's the question we propose to investigate over the coming months. It's a question that evolved out of our own ongoing quest for outstanding seafood, and the surprising difficulties we encountered.

But this week we want to cut to the chase and present a positive result, an option that few visitors will associate with outstanding seafood: The Cheesecake Factory, on the makai side of Kalakaua, on the Diamond Head side of the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center.

Cheesecake Factory, you ask? Aren't these in most major markets on the mainland? Isn't this a chain restaurant?

The answer is "yes" to all of the above, but those answers don't begin to tell the story.

The Cheesecake Factory in Waikiki opened something like six years ago, and quickly grew into what the restaurant staff inform us is the busiest Cheesecake Factory in the world. Indeed, if you don't go at an off-hour, you could be faced with a long wait for a table, as long as several hours on a busy evening. Our last visit was at 1:30 PM on a Wednesday afternoon, and even then there was a wait of about twenty minutes.

The menu is extensive, something over 20 pages long, and filled with the usual sort of thing found at Cheesecake Factory locations everywhere. But there is a fish page in the menu, and your server will be happy to tell you about daily specials, consisting of fresh, locally-caught fish, prepared in a variety of manners.

Mahi-mahi seems to be always featured, and you can likewise order the ubiquitous macadamia-crusted version of this and other fish. There are additional choices, too; on our most recent visit, we tried mahi-mahi prepared Mediterranean style, with tomatoes, capers, and artichokes, in an olive-oil laden sauce, all served over a bed of mashed potatoes for $24.95. It was absolutely delicious, worth every cent, and the serving portion was nearly large enough for two.

We've had similar experiences on other visits. The fresh fish preparations were invariably, predictably wonderful.

Instead of our usual wasabe crusted ahi tuna, made with a crackly exterior which contrasts nicely with the ahi's solid but smooth texture, we decided this time to try the Firecracker Salmon Rolls for $10.95. These consisted of salmon wrapped in an egg roll wrapper and deep-fried, with a loop of green onion tied around them--- we imagine that's the fuse of the firecracker--- served over a bed of shredded red cabbage with a mild red chili sauce. Er ... next time we'll go back to the ahi. The idea is clever but the combination of flavors is not; the red cabbage wasn't that good and really clashed with the both fried egg roll wrappers and the salmon.

Of course, how can you not have cheesecake for dessert? We didn't see our favorite, passionfruit cheesecake, on the menu, and we were told that it isn't offered any longer. A pity; it was not only good, but it added more local flavor, something we deem a plus in restaurants that need to attract tourists. So we settled for one of the chocolate varieties instead.

Service was attentive and friendly, as it always is. When the new restaurant was launched, Cheesecake Factory brought in an experienced startup crew from the mainland. Of course, they've done a lot of local hiring, and some of the startup crew stayed on and became Hawaiian residents. But the point is, they did things right, from the very first day, and that continues on, virtually guaranteeing a great dining experience (once you've gotten a table, at least).

We're very pleased to recommend Cheesecake Factory in Waikiki to both visitors and kama`aina; we're especially pleased to recommend it as a place to get excellent, fresh seafood at a price that is probably just two-thirds or less of what you'd pay at one of the "fine dining" establishments elsewhere in the neighborhood. No, Cheesecake Factory isn't "economy" dining; not much in Waikiki really is. But it won't break the bank and most importantly, it provides great value. Do try it, if you haven't already, and let us know what you think.

Aloha Nights Block Party

2011-01-09T00:01:00.001-10:00

It was actually an Aloha Night, in the singular, but nonetheless it was an event that stood out among the many street parties that take place at times throughout the year in Waikiki. This is true even though in terms of mere size, it was a smaller event than most. But quality is surely a vital measure, and this one had quality written all over it.

The block party took place on Monday night, January 3, 2011, a week night rather than a weekend night for reasons we don't quite fathom. Events involving street closings can be pretty disruptive and traffic in Waikiki, perhaps even more than elsewhere on the island, backs up rather quickly. The venue was Kalakaua Avenue in front of DFS Galleria, so fortunately only a block or so of Kalakaua needed to be closed, rather than long stretches as for events such as the enormous Ho`olaulea that takes place in September.

The event was, in fact, sponsored by DFS Galleria Waikiki. While we've had some issues with this organization in the past, that's a story for another column; at this moment, we'd like to give them full credit and kudos for sponsoring the block party, and for doing such a good job with it.

So, what made us think it was so special? Street parties in Waikiki tend to follow a formula: there are zillions of vendors in tents, mostly selling food at prices that aren't exactly low, the rest with some sort of equally costly trinkets and tourist souvenirs; and there are various stages upon which local performers provide entertainment, generally ranging in quality from "good enough" on up.

At the DFS party, the number of vendors was relatively small; after all, you can only fit so many into a single block of Kalakaua Avenue. But these weren't just any vendors: they were the likes of Alan Wong, Roy's, and Wolfgang's Steakhouse. No, the prices weren't low, but their offerings provided top notch cuisine and great value for the money. This approach has a lot going for it.

The entertainment followed the same model; there were just a few performers on a single stage (again, there was the space limitation), but they were definitely Hawaii's A-listers. DFS brought in Jake Shimabukuro, Keola Beamer, and Raiatea Helm. (Separately, Japanese TV personality "IKKA" was present as well, and we gather she is herself quite a big name.)

As our photo(*) above shows, attendance was in the thousands. We're not so good at making crowd estimates, but the venue was packed with happy and appreciative tourists and kama`aina alike.

DFS Galleria Waikiki styles itself as a high-end shopping experience at high-end prices. We can attest that when it comes to throwing this party, they went first-class all the way, and it didn't cost a cent to enjoy the entertainment and the atmosphere. More is not always better; DFS's focused effort definitely has set a new standard.

(*) We of course kept to our practice of anonymous attendance; but this meant that unfortunately we couldn't obtain the best vantage points for photography.

The Waikiki Wanderer Welcomes You

2011-01-02T00:01:00.007-10:00

Waikiki--- it's the storied one-time playground of royalty and the wealthy, and the iconic tourist destination in Hawai`i. Millions pass through here each year, coming from every part of the globe. Twenty thousand or so call it home. And, while we've seen books and articles--- not to mention endless tour guides--- there aren't very many people writing about Waikiki on any sort of regular basis.

But we're here to do just that. Starting today, and every Sunday to come, we'll be publishing something about Waikiki. It might be a restaurant review, or highlights of a special event; it might be social or political commentary; and even historical articles and works of fiction are not out of our purview. While we do plan on regular monthly features, we'll be anxious to get your input on what you like or don't like, and we'll attempt to deliver timely, useful, and entertaining content.

One thing we are is independent. No one pays us to review their business (so don't ask). At least for the moment, we won't accept advertising. We say what we think and we're not going to compromise our ability to do so.

We are also anonymous. While we're sure it's possible to track us down if you try hard enough, in the public view we're "the Wanderer" and that's really all that we need to be.

The idea for this blog is not new, but we've taken our time in bringing it forward. We made public expression (and hence, copyright) of our title, "The Waikiki Wanderer" some years back, in anticipation of this day. Now, we have launched our little ship, and we invite you to ride along with us.

Waikiki has its landmarks and symbols that are known to just about everyone; but there are also dark corners and back alleys that are known to only a few. This week, we'll leave you with a teaser: can you identify the rather unique but equally obscure Waikiki location shown below?