© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

One of the surprise hits this year at Baselworld was Antoine Martin’s Slow Runner timepiece, complete with over-sized balance wheel. Mesmerizing to look at the Slow Runner has been designed to remind us all to slow down, take our time and really ourselves. After all, isn’t that what’s life is all about?

The Slow Runner

As I have discussed before in a previous article, the Slow Runner is quite possibly one of the most counter-intuitive timepieces you will come across this year. The third collection to come from this innovative watch manufacturer – co-founded by industry veteran and master watchmaker Martin Braun – the Slow Runner firmly establishes Antoine Martin as an exciting young force to be reckoned with.

I have already covered how it all works in detail in an earlier write-up, so the focus here will be instead on how it looks and feels in the flesh. The short answer is pretty damn good. Solid and substantial without being bulky on the wrist (Jenifer tried one on too and reported that it was also comfortable on her more slender wrist), the Slow Runner feels well-made and is easy to read thanks to its clean dial design.

The focus of the Slow Runner’s face is on the seconds indicator, which provides a graphical illustration of Antoine Martin’s ‘Slow Run’ approach on a large sub-dial at six o’clock. The seconds hand advances at a rate of exactly twice per second, a dead giveaway to those in the know that something is a little different about this timepiece. To the right is the time and date display, whilst a power-reserve indicator at 10 o’clock lets you keep track of the hand-wound movement’s remaining 92 hour power reserve.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Turn the piece over and you are instantly rewarded with uninterrupted views of that incredible 24mm balance wheel complete with striking blue silicium balance spring, beating at a steady rate of just 7,200 hbph or one hertz. The entire philosophy of the Slow Runner is captured in this one instant and to be honest it is difficult to look away.

Despite the relative simplicity of the movement (meaning there are no additional complications) I somehow found it absolutely mesmerizing. That’s not a complaint mind you but I must admit I did find it somewhat surprising, especially in the face of all the other incredible complications we had already witnessed that day and I think it speaks volumes about the overpowering appeal of the Slow Runner.

The 2013 Slow Runner collection is comprised of three different versions, two in stainless steel (one with a silver dial and the other black) and the third in rose gold (also with a silver dial). These are intended as entry-level pieces for Antoine Martin and really anchor the brand, so the pricing is also very reasonable at just CHF 19,500 (approx US$20,650) + taxes for the stainless steel models and CHF 34,500 (US$36,500) + taxes for the rose gold version.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The real challenge of course comes in picking your favorite. I quite liked the rose gold version however I would be just as happy with the stainless steel version with black dial.

The Final Word

Judging by the popularity of the Slow Runner collection at Baselworld I would say that Antoine Martin have another hit on their hand and one that is far more accessible to watch lovers everywhere. Of course the flipside to this is that may be difficult to get your hands on one but trust me, there well worth the wait. Besides, what’s the rush? Take your time and enjoy yourself. As they say, all good things to those who wait.

www.antoinemartin.ch

The post Antoine Martin Slow Runner Hands On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Since the launch of the original Sequential One timepiece all the way back in 2009, tiny independent watchmaker Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (aka MCT Watches) has had my attention. Determined to be different the young brand blazed its own trail, coming out with a unique jumping hour complication quite unlike anything I had seen before.

As I wrote about a few weeks ago though, in spite of this firecracker start things unfortunately went a little quiet over the intervening years, for various reasons. Now, new owners, new leadership and a talented new designer are determined to change all that, starting with Baselworld 2013. I spent some time with the brand during the fair, getting hands on with the new S110 collection and chatting with incoming CEO Francois Candolfi (formely of Audemars Piguet and Swatch Group) about his plans for the future. Suffice to say, there are some exciting times ahead.

Building the Brand

It seems the general consensus these days is that in order to classify yourself as a ‘real’ watch brand you need to have at least three distinct collections on offer. The main reason for this is that whilst the initial collection – the Sequential One in the case of MCT – launches your brand and introduces you to the world, it is the follow-up two collections that reinforce your message and really establish you as a serious contender who is likely to be around for the years to come.

MCT so far have not really gotten past this first stage, although the new S110 collection launched at Baselworld is definitely a step in the right direction. More of a range extension than a new series it nevertheless gives some insight into the brand’s longer-term strategy and more importantly puts MCT back on people’s radar. Not to mention the fact that it looks great in the flesh.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The S110 Titanium

Presented in a 45mm titanium case the futuristic looking S110 really stands apart from its predecessor thanks to updated, fresh-faced design. Everything has really been opened up on the dial, with all superfluous details stripped away. Despite the relatively simplistic monochrome styling however, the watch is striking on the wrist, really standing out a lot more than I expected. Legibility of the hour numbers has also been further enhanced (if that’s even possible) by making them slightly larger and using a different font style.

As with the original, the S110 is extremely comfortable on the wrist due to its lightweight construction and thanks to its relatively flat profile slides under the cuff with the minimum of fuss. Although to be honest I’m not sure I could bring myself to cover that beautifully skeletonized and hand-engraved dial, which, as I’ve said previously, kind of reminds me somewhat of a computer circuit board (albeit very much in a good way).

I must admit that I was more than a little surprised at how much I liked the titanium version on the wrist, as originally I was going in thinking that the black DLC variant with red numbers was the watch for me. And whilst I am still a big fan of the black DLC model, I think I could really see myself wearing the titanium version on a daily basis.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The movement is more or less that same as the original, which I think is fine given the relatively short time-frame the new owners had to get themselves ready for Baselworld. That being said, Candolfi told (and also showed me) some of the brand’s plans for the near future and let’s just say we could have some very cool things to look forward to from this young watchmaker in the next 12 to 18 months.

What also makes the new S110 collection so attractive is the price. Starting from around CHF79,000 (US$81,000) and ranging up to CHF85,000 (US$87,300) this is quite a bit lower than the cost of the original S1 and reflects MCT’s desire to bring a broader offering to the market. The lower prices are not a reflection on quality of course but rather on the brand’s decision not to use precious metals such as white and red gold for the cases and dials.

From my point of view this makes it a very attractive option for those looking for something really different that will stand out on the wrist, whilst still offering a level of versatility and wearability not often associated with watches of this caliber (or price tag.)

The Final Word

It seems that MCT Watches are off to a great start with the new S110 collection. They have obviously been listening to the feedback from the market and their own clients and are now working towards building a more diversified offering that establishes them as a permanent member of the high-end, independent watchmaking elite. Only time will tell whether they will be successful or not but based on the initial results the future is looking bright.

www.mctwatches.com

The post MCT Watches S110 Titanium Hands On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

So it turns out that people who buy high-end mechanical wrist watches don’t just do it because they look cool, they are also actually interested in what’s going on the inside. Who would have guessed, right? Well, Hublot for one, which is why the luxury watchmaker ran their first ever ‘Watch Academy’ at the Hublot Boutique on New Bond Street in London last month. The talented guys from watchanish.com were on hand to witness the show and have provided us with some excellent coverage, including a very cool video. Check it out after the jump.

The Watch Academy

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

The Watch Academy (or WA for short) is exactly what it sounds like. Essentially Hublot invited a handful of its top clients to not only come and learn how some of their favourite multi-part cases and movements are put together but also to experience the process for themselves. Essentially each attendee on the night was given the opportunity to assemble a Hublot UNICO movement and case under the expert instruction of some extremely talented watchmakers.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish

As you can see in the video below though it’s not always as easy as the guys in the white coats make it look, with tiny screws and hundreds of moving parts presenting more than their fair share of challenges for participants:

The Watch Academy – London from Watch Anish on Vimeo.

One thing is for sure though, judging by those smiles it’s a heck of a lot of fun to pull apart a tiny mechanical machine and then try to figure out how on earth it all goes back together. Makes you feel like a kid again, doesn’t it? Of course if it all gets too much you can just take a break, grab yourself a drink and a canapé and settle in for a spirited chat with a fellow watch enthusiast, there’s sure to be a few of them in the room!

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

The Final Word

By all the accounts the night was a resounding success; knowledge was gained, friendships were forged and more than a couple of those tiny f$%*ng screws were lost!

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

www.hublot.com

The post The Watch Academy x Hublot London (Video) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

Building on their successful pilot’s collection Zenith released two new editions of the popular Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 timepiece this year at Baselworld, both with added GMT functionality. One of the models in particular really stood out for me, the 500-piece limited edition Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron.

The Red Baron

The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 series is not a new collection for Zenith as such but there have been some pretty noticeable changes to the line-up this year. Some of you may recall last year’s collection included possibly one of the largest pilot watches we’ve seen in a long time, the 57.5 mm Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20. The only thing more impressive than the sheer physical size of that piece was the surprising level of success it enjoyed.

This year however Zenith made the decision to put the collection on a hardcore diet, reducing the case down to a far more manageable size. Gone are the former hulk-like proportions replaced instead by a significantly leaned down 48mm frame. Despite its smaller size however (relatively speaking of course) the Red Baron edition is no less intimidating on the wrist thanks to its all-black, DLC-coated titanium case and contrasting GMT markings in red on the dial.

Powered by the automatic elite dual time 693 calibre, the clean dial of the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron displays the hours and minutes, small seconds as well as a 24-hour second time-zone indicator. On the reverse side the solid case-back features a relief engraved image of the infamous Fokker Triplane Dr.1, complete with the inscription: Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 – ZENITH Flying Instruments. Completing the look is an over-stitched black leather strap with matching red highlights.

Limited to just 500 pieces the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron will retail for just under US$8,100.

The Final Word

Another very cool piece from the Swiss watchmaker and one that is far more wearable now thanks to its slimmed down proportions. If you’re not into the all-black look there is also a non-limited edition stainless model available that is well worth checking out, particularly if you’re in the market for a good quality, over-sized pilots watch and don’t want to pay IWC prices.

www.zenith-watches.com

The post Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

One of the cooler new independent brands to emerge this year at Baselworld was undoubtedly Breva, who celebrated their inception with the launch of the incredible Génie 01 timepiece. During the show I had a chance to go hands-on with the Génie 01 and to speak with the brand’s young founder, Vincent Dupontreué, about what he sees in Breva’s future. Read on for my thoughts.

The Génie 01

I have already covered the inner-workings and functionality of the Génie 01 in some detail in a previous article, which you can read here and so I won’t be going into a lot of the technical complexities in this article. For the sake of those unfamiliar with the watch though I will go as far as to say that is essentially a highly attractive, mechanical weather station for your wrist, probably unlike anything you have seen before. And, as I witnessed first-hand, it is impressively accurate.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The brain-child of company Founder Vincent Dupontreué, the Génie 01 is the result of a collaboration between the young Frenchman and industry superstar Francois Mojon and his team at Chronode. Three years in development it is arguably one of the more practical pieces of haute horology you will ever come across, and whilst it may never ‘pay for itself’ as they say, it’s weather predicting capabilities will certainly come in handy over the years.

Despite its inherent complexity however two things really struck me when I first got my hands on the Génie 01. First, it was really easy to use and second, and perhaps more importantly, it was really easy to read. The latter is perhaps not that surprising though when you consider that Dupontreué was already a successful entrepreneur in the fashion industry before launching Breva and so he has a healthy appreciation for the importance of aesthetics.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

This becomes even more evident as soon as you start speaking with him about the design of the Génie 01. It’s clear a lot of thought has gone into this process, everything has been done for a reason, with equal consideration given to both function and form. It was important to get things right the first time Dupontreué explained to me as this would lay the foundation for the future models and establish the design DNA of the brand. There are of course always tweaks to be made but certain elements would remain constant in all future iterations.

The dial configuration is remarkably simple for what really is quite a complex timepiece. Two semi-transparent, smoked-sapphire sub-dials are arranged in a figure-8 position across the dial, with the lower disc displaying the hours and minutes, whilst forecast weather conditions are shown on the upper disc. Small seconds are displayed just below 12 o’clock, with an altitude scale arching across the top of the dial.

As a result of the clean design and highly legible indications, reading information of the dial is a breeze and can literally be done with just a glance at the wrist. For example, in the picture below it is about 17:05, we are at a relatively standard altitude and according to the Génie 01 it’s raining outside (which it was, cats and dogs in fact.)

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The other thing that stood out for me was just how comfortable this piece is to wear. Often times owning complex pieces of haute horologerie capable of performing all sorts of mechanical feats means compromising on wearability as case shapes and sizes can quickly become ridiculous (Hublot’s LaFerrari is a good example of this.) Not so with the Génie 01, which at just under 45mm wears much like any other standard-sized wristwatch even in spite of the three dual-purpose crowns that are required to control and set all the functions. It may seem a little strange to say but this is a high-end timekeeper that you can actually wear.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Limited to just 55 pieces in white gold and 55 pieces in pink gold, the Génie 01 is offered on a hand stitched alligator strap with matching folding buckle. Pricing will be CHF 145,000 excl. taxes and shipping for the pink gold version and CHF 150,000 excl. taxes and shipping for the white gold.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The Final Word

Breva’s Génie 01 was in many ways for me a pleasant surprise. I had obviously read through all the press material prior to the show and written a detailed article on how the watch worked in theory however I wasn’t quite sure what to expect in reality. How easy would it be to use? Would it wear comfortably on the wrist? Would it be accurate? The questions went on and on. Now however I only have one question; where can I get one?

www.breva-watch.com

The post Breva Génie 01 Hands-On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.