Generally I’m not one for bold statements but every now and then I think the occasion calls for it and so here goes; I think Peter Speake-Marin is one of the most underrated independent watch-makers in the world. I also think he is one of the most talented. Don’t believe me? Then take a closer look at the all new Speake-Marin Renaissance Tourbillon Minute-Repeater. Mesmerizing complexity, flawless finishing, this is not just a timepiece; it’s a work of art!

The Renaissance
This superb new timepiece from Speake-Marin is significant on a number of levels and, as with anything this great man does, there is always a great deal of thought behind it. According to the brand the creation of this timepiece is indicative of the intellectual journey Speake-Marin himself has embarked on to rediscover and harness the classical elements of Speake-Marin watch-making and reinterpret them to extraordinary effect.

Sounds like a lot of fancy marketing talk to help sell some watches I know but as anyone who has ever met Peter (myself included) will you tell you, this is the real deal. Peter is a profound thinker and relentless perfectionist, leading him to focus on and revisit minute details which others would simply overlook. The Renaissance Tourbillon Minute-Repeater is a celebration of this.

Speake-Marine connoisseurs will undoubtedly recognize elements of the brand’s heritage in every aspect of this new timepiece; the iconic Piccadilly case, the characteristic pleated crown, the signature Foundation hands, the intricate hand-engraving and of course the distinct Speake-Marin topping-tool motif, here in the form of the tourbillon cage. And who could tear their eyes away from the incredible open-worked dial!

The Inner Workings
The movement itself is absolutely gorgeous. Developed to Speake-Marin’s specifications by La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva it features an eye-catching 60-second tourbillon at 5 o’clock made all the more stunning by the fine finishing of its topping-tool shaped cage, with a heat-blued hand indicating seconds. There is also a highly complex minute repeater complication, activated by a slider on the case band at 9 o’clock, which chimes the hours, the quarters-hours and minutes after the quarter-hours, enabling the wearer to ‘read the time’ without actually having to look at the dial.

On the reverse side we find an equally alluring sight – a unique intricate hand-engraved design on the movement back plate. Not only is the visual effect breathtaking but it is also a testament to the creativity of Speake-Marin. It takes something that is already truly amazing and makes it exceptional but then again this is what we’ve come to expect from the man, attention to detail.

The Final Word
What really impresses me about this piece is the wow factor. There’s no doubt Speake-Marin is an amazing craftsman but over the last few years his focus has been on the development of his superb in-house movements – absolutely exceptional achievements in their own right don’t get me wrong – however this has meant that we have not seen much in the way of complications or extravagant finishing. To me the Renaissance Tourbillon is a reminder of just what this amazing watch-maker is actually capable of and why the brand deserves your attention. It’s definitely got ours.

For more information please visit the official website: www.speake-marin.com.

We have just received official confirmation that Perth-based Swiss Time Machine – Australia’s only authorized retailer for Urwerk – has just taken delivery of one of only eight UR-1001 Zeit Devices to be made available world-wide. This will be the one and only Zeit Device to be offered by the brand in Australia, so if you’re thinking about adding this incredible piece of haute horology to your collection you better act fast!

The UR-1001 Zeit Device
When I first laid eyes on a prototype of the UR-1001 on a visit to the Urwerk Atelier in Geneva in March last year my first reaction was disbelief. Not because of its unconventional size or design but rather because of its mind-blowing complexity. This was truly a horological masterpiece. By the time the Device was officially launched in August 2011 I had been able to wrap my mind around the concept somewhat but even today I still marvel at the flawless execution of such an intricate work of art.

For those not familiar with the Zeit Device please allow me a brief summation (although I really recommend you read my full article here to gain a better understanding of this incredible timepiece.) In a nutshell the UR-1001 marks the passage of time in seconds, minutes, hours, day/night, date, month, years, 100 years and all of the way to a monumental 1,000 years! Sounds straight-forward enough but take a moment to think about, 1,000 years!

The design and construction is undeniably Urwerk and the distinct time display indications will be familiar to the brand’s faithful. Amazingly the dials, springs, satellites, carrousels and retrograde spiral spring were all manufactured in-house by Urwerk, as were most of the components in the Zeit Device’s complications and indications. Not only does this guarantee quality and precision but it also gives you a sense of just what this small Atelier is capable of.

As we mentioned at the start only eight Zeit Devices will be made available world-wide and as far as we are aware this is the only one that will ever be offered for sale in Australia through an authorized retailer. Sweetening the deal is the fact that Swiss Time Machine has also just taken delivery of another Urwerk favorite, the UR-110 Altin, limited to just 55 pieces. These incredible timepieces will also be in short supply so again, if you want one, don’t wait!

The Final Word
It’s really fantastic to see such amazing pieces of haute horology making their way down to Australia and hats off to Swiss Time Machine for pioneering the way for some of the world’s best independent watch-makers.

For more information about these two Urwerk pieces or any of the other amazing brands on offer from Swiss Time Machine please send an email to info@swisstimemachine.com.au or visit their official website www.swisstimemachine.com.au.

The Duometre à Spherotourbillon
With the creation of the Duometre à Spherotourbillon, JLC claims to have the first tourbillon that can be set accurately. Now, before we can confirm this we must understand the difference between this watch and the “stop” tourbillon from Lange & Sohne. On the Lange the seconds hand is mounted on the tourbillion and to set the seconds it is possible to stop the tourbillon and then restart it in conjunction with a time signal. JLC’s offering however, allows you to reset the separate seconds hand back to the zero position without stopping the tourbillon; an intriguing development.

One of the primary aims of creating this watch was to produce a compact watch that has the maximum number of complications and still retains a high level of readability. The tourbillon revolves in two axes and is inclined by 20 degrees from the vertical. In the circular axis it revolves once every 30 seconds, at the same time it also processes one complete cycle every 15 seconds, the higher speeds are to improve overall accuracy.

The calibre 382 has a cylindrical balance spring and a larger than usual balance wheel vibrating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The 18K pink gold case is 42mm by 14.1mm with a polished and satin-brushed finish.

The Duometre a Quartieme Lunaire 40.5
Also unveiled by the brand this year was the superb Duometre a Quartieme Lunaire, which like the Spherotourbillon features JLC’s patented Dual-Wing concept; this separates the power delivery of the time keeping elements from that used for the complications and so increases the accuracy of the watch.

Taking full advantage of this technological advancement, the Quartieme Lunaire 40.5 boasts an impressive list of complications including; hours, minutes, seconds, calendar and moon phases for both hemispheres and the startling jumping seconds moving in one sixth of a second increments.

All of this, care of the Calibre 381 movement, is packed into an 18K pink gold case 40.5 mm by 13.07mm – a truly amazing feat of watch-making.

The Final Word
The Spherotourbillon design seems to provide an interesting development in tourbillon technology which will undoubtedly be extremely popular and provide the basis for future models. This, combined with the improvements in the Master Control series will likely make for a successful 2012 for Jager-LeCoultre.

For more information please visit the official website: www.jaeger-lecoultre.com.

I have always been a big fan of Lange & Sohne, interviewing a previous CEO was one of my first professional watch jobs, so they will always have a special place in my heart. In 2012 our favorite German watch brand is making the most of its Saxony roots with artisan skills going back to the 12^th Century.

The Grande Lange 1
There are three new watches for this year; since the reformation of Lange & Sohne in 1994 the Lange 1 has been the lynchpin of the company, therefore making any change was going to be a risk.

To retain the key elements of pure elegance of the Grand Lange 1 while at the same time freshening up the overall look required a new movement – the L095.1. This enables the thickness to be reduced to 8mm down from the 11mm of the original. One big internal change is that the twin barrel has been removed and replaced by a single thinner mainspring. The new dial has a larger date window and no overlap of sub-dials results in a clean, open look.

Available in yellow and red gold at 31,000 euros (approx. US$39,600) and platinum for 47,000 euros (approx US$60,000).

The Lange 1 Tourbillon

Next up is the Lange 1 Tourbillon which brings together a series of different complications to create the most sophisticated Lange 1 to date. The most immediate difference between this and almost every other similar watch is that you can’t see the complexity from the front, only the back. This keeps the dial clear for the perpetual calendar; retrograde day at 9 o’clock, moon phase and seconds at seven o’clock, and the leap year indicator at six o’clock. The month ring and all of the calendar elements have to move simultaneously and this requires a lot of power. This is provided by a power reserve that builds up over the course of the month to be released at the stroke of midnight.

On this watch the main sub-dial is on the right indicating an underlying automatic movement, the L082.1.

Available for 240,000 euros (approx. US$307,000) for pink gold and platinum 270,000 euros (approx. US$345,000).

The Datograph

There are have been many column inches about the new Datograph (including our brief spiel here) but the chance to see one up close is a rare treat. The Datograph Flyback is one of the most beautiful chronograph movements ever made, slightly bigger than previous models at 41mm and 13mm thick, with the bigger indicators as before. An interesting addition is a new power reserve at the six o’clock position, subtle but a welcome addition.

Available for 69,000 euros (approx. US$88,000).

The Final Word
A strong showing from Lange & Sohne this year, the proportions and finish have been sharpened up, and the whole is much improved, an excellent 2012 selection.

For more information please visit www.alange-soehne.com.

They may only produce 2,700 watches per year but Richard Mille always manage to put on a show. This year the presentation was in 3D which is a first for me and the added dimension certainly made for an unusual experience.

So, what’s new for 2012?
Well for starters, after spending a number of years in development, the Richard Mille in-house movement CRMA1 is finally available in the RM037. All operations are available through the crown and the various actions can be selected by the pusher and indicated on the dial, winding (W), neutral (N) and seconds (S).

In fact the crown isn’t directly attached to the movement, it is decoupled by a washer and gearing improving the seals and making the crown very easy to detach – important during the repair process.

For the RM050 tourbillon split second chronograph Felipe Massa (pictured at top) they have included the newly designed RMCC1 manual wind movement. While the case shape may be familiar the material is not being a polymer case impregnated with carbon nanotubes giving it huge resistance to stress while at the same time being extremely light.

There is also another version of the Felipe Massa this year called the RM56. Remarkably the case of this piece is made entirely from sapphire. This is extremely difficult from a technical viewpoint as there is no room for error – the material is extremely hard and unyielding and therefore it has no give at all for fitting.

As you would expect the work is highly specialized and each one takes more than 1,000 hours to produce, meaning that not only will they be extremely expensive but they’ll also be extremely limited. Expect to pay 7 figures if you’re lucky enough to get your hands on one the only 5 to be made.

For those who are looking for something a little more daring, take a look at the RM052. There are many skull watches out there, most have an artistically created dials but not the RM052. Here the skull is the baseplate and the movement hangs off this supported by arms from the corners forming a skull and crossbones motif. The ruby of the tourbillon can be seen through the jaws of the skull and the entire construction is in grade 5 titanium. 21 pieces will be made in total, 15 in titanium and 6 in red or white gold depending on customer preference.

The Final Word
For a small brand Richard Mille often seems to punch above its weight, the range is beginning to mature and evolve into a truly coherent selection. True they aren’t for everyone, they’re large and masculine, but they are honest, top quality products.

For more please visit www.richardmille.com.

It was officially announced yesterday that industry heavy-weight Jean-Claude Biver has stepped down as CEO of Hublot effective from 1 January 2012 and has been succeeded by Mr. Ricardo Guadalupe, the former Managing Director of the Company and a long-time friend of Biver’s.

Whilst it may be a bit of a stretch to suggest that this was a shock move given the extended period of time Biver has spent as the watch-maker’s head combined with his age, it is still no less a momentous occasion. A legend in the industry Biver is credited with resurrecting Hublot and transforming the brand into the powerhouse it is today, combining cutting edge technology with clever marketing strategies and a healthy dose of charisma along the way.

It’s not surprising than that many industry observers (myself included) have speculated over the years about what would happen when Biver eventually stepped down as CEO as the success of the brand has always appeared so intrinsically tied to this one, great man. Arguably though this is the best move Hublot could have made as it allows Biver to step away from his everyday responsibilities of running an international business and instead focus his attention on product and strategy development. He is after-all a marketing man at heart and there are few in the industry who can rival him in this area.

What really remains to be seen however is whether Hublot’s new CEO and senior executives are willing to take full advantage of this invaluable resource.

Whatever the future holds though we will always remember Biver for his charismatic personality, his willingness to make himself available (we interviewed him here and here) and the incredible contribution he has made to the Swiss watch-making industry.

Let’s face it, whatever your personal sentiments may be about the brand the man is, and always will be, a legend.

For more information please visit the official Hublot website: www.hublot.com

If you happen to be sharing a drink with any of your fellow watch enthusiasts anywhere around the country right now, chances are the conversation is going to turn to the upcoming SIHH 2012. Not surprising really when you consider that this is the watch show where some of coolest (and biggest) brands in the world choose to showcase their latest offerings for the new year. Don’t despair though if you haven’t had a chance to keep up with all the latest per-releases, we’ve got you covered with a selection of 5 timepieces that we think deserve your attention.

Check them out after the jump and let us know what you think in the comments section. We’re happy to take suggestions too!

Montblanc Vintage Tachydate

Showing that the vintage trend is still alive and well in the luxury watch industry Montblanc presents its classically styled Tachydate from the Villeret 1858 Collection. Featuring mono-pusher chronograph functionality and date display, the versatility of this new offering from Montblanc is a welcome surprise. Add to that stone-cold good looks and the reasonable 43.5mm case size and you have a very strong contender for your new daily wear. Be quick though as it is a Limited Edition of just 58 pieces in white gold and 58 pieces in red gold.

Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Automatic

At the complete opposite end of the scale we find the futuristic Altiplano Skeleton from Piaget, coming in at just 5.34mm thick. Although this is probably not a piece I would ever wear personally I cannot deny that I am absolutely mesmerized by the open-worked dial and the stunning view of the automatic movement which by the way is only 2.4mm thick! I still can’t decide which side I like looking more at, the front or the back!

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down Watch

Of course if you really want to impress even the most hardcore of your watch-loving friends with your knowledge of fine timepieces than all you need to do is drop the words ‘Lange & Sohne Datograph’ into the conversation. First released in 1999 this new incarnation of the Up/Down Watch (the name is in reference to the new power reserve display at 6 o’clock – don’t worry, it sounds cooler in German) features an improved 60 hour power reserve and a refined dial. A perennial favorite with collectors this is one piece that is sure to cause a bit of a stir this year.

IWC Top Gun Miramar Pilot’s Watch

Let’s face it; nothing says badass like an IWC Top Gun pilot’s watch. Make no mistake though, you better make sure you’ve got what it takes if you want to strap on the new Mirimar. At 48mm this is not a watch for the faint-hearted (or thin-wristed for that matter!) and has a decidedly military feel, from the dark grey ceramic case to the green textile strap. In short, if you’re job doesn’t require you to face danger on a daily basis than this is not the watch for you. Fear not though, as this is the year of the Pilot, so plenty more to come from one of our favorite brands!

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon

Rounding out our 5 is this exquisitely refined timepiece from Vacheron Constantin. Deceptive in its apparent simplicity this is not your average tourbillon, boasting an incredible 14-day power reserve (that’s 336 hours for those who can’t be bothered doing the math)! This is the watch for those in the know, those individuals who appreciate a highly complex timepiece without having to go to great lengths to advertise the fact.

The Final Word
It promises to be another exciting year in the world of luxury timepieces and better still its only just beginning! Share your thoughts below and let us know if you think we got it right with the five above plus don’t forget to add a few suggestions of your own!

They may not know how to measure time, but they are the best at capturing it. A painter, an artist, and a designer: we talk to three up-and-coming talents to explore the relationships between art and time.

“It was not something I had considered at all. One day, I was painting a dashboard that was part of a bigger painting, and I realized I took a particular pleasure in drawing the dial, index and hands. Just to give it a try, afterwards, I painted a Monaco. Since then, I never stopped painting watches”.

Didier Vallé’s casual rendition of how he decided to become a watch painter alludes to the fact that it was simply a matter of coincidence, but I would suggest that the inherent similarities between his work and watches ensured that one day the hand of fate would intercede on his behalf; the love of precision, excellence, handcrafting, and major attention to minor details.

At just 26, Quentin Carnaille is already aspiring to follow in the footsteps of some of watch-making’s most visionary pioneers. Not a watch-maker in any sense of the word, Carnaille is a designer who sees opportunities for artistic expression in all aspects of horology. Like the incredible master watchmaker Beat Haldimann, he created a small watch that doesn’t show the time. For those looking for something slightly more practical he has created a series of horoligical cuff-links.

Although young and very much at beginning of his journey, this is one designer who seeks to think about the concepts time and how we measure it at a more intellectual level. He offered an interesting analysis of the life-cycle of time which gives an insight into his thought process: “4500 years ago, man created the sundial, which lasted 3900 years. Then, clepsydras appeared, and lasted 3300 years. Mechanical clocks were created in the XIIth century and lasted 600 ans. Pockets watches, 400 years, wrist watches, 100 years, quartz watches, a few decades, and finally some new technologies last only a few months”. That is why Carnailles has sees it as his job to stop the effects of time on watches – by deconstructing them. After all a deconstructed watch is no longer a timepiece at all and therefore can never age.

Freezing Time
Artists and watch-makers constantly walk in opposite directions: the former seek to capture the essence of time by freezing it while the latter develop incredible movements to illustrate and measure how time flies. Stéphanie Guglielmetti, artist and designer, goes to the end of both process and then merges them together: she deconstructs watches, takes their parts, and then gives them a second life through artistic mobiles.

“Watches have always been part of my life. I grew up in the Jura mountains, worked for many watch brands, but as a designer, I always felt free to re-interpret them in my own way. I like going against strictness”.

In her creations, all parts come from used movements; “They’ve already had a first life”, explains Guglielmetti. “I exposed them on a white background, as if these old black-painted parts were immersed into a life, as if the shadow of the past melt into the present. At this point, what I do is like calligraphy. I try to get rid of all parasites and intrusive elements that light carries along with itself, to focus only on pure black and white, on past and present”.

With her bright smile, her kindness and her simplicity, it’s hard to resist Stéphanie Guglielmetti’s charm. She almost sounded suprised that 70% of her creations were sold in a few days when she exhibited them in a small gallery in Paris a few months ago. But believe me, it’s only just the beginning. You can check out her latest news at http://www.stephanie-guglielmetti.com

In 2010 Devon Works – a California-based creative design lab – set chins wagging when they unveiled their new concept timepiece, the Devon Tread 1. Over-sized and unconventional in every way the Tread 1 became an overnight sensation, baffling some with its complex inner workings and wooing others with its cutting edge design.

In response to this early success, Devon announced in September of this year that it would be introducing two additional color schemes to the collection, known simply as 1E and 1F. Now, for the first time ever, the latter has found its way to Australia!

Admittedly I was a little skeptical when the Tread 1 was first announced (you can read my original article here which contains all the technical specs) but after having had the opportunity to handle a few on overseas trip and discussing them with fellow watch-lovers I was convinced.

The original Devon Tread 1 which will also soon be available in Australia from Vendome Woollahra

Quite simply the Tread 1 is one of the coolest watches I have seen in a long time, sure it’s big but it’s also surprisingly comfortable on the wrist and extremely easy to read. Of course you don’t have to take my word for it, now you can go and check it out for yourself at the exclusive Sydney luxury boutique Vendome Woollahra.

You may want to move quickly though as this is the only Devon timepiece in Australia and considering that it is priced from under $20k, you can be sure it won’t be on display for long.

Please let us know if you end up buying it by the way, we’d love to see some live shots of it on your wrist on our Facebook page!

Guest contributor John Galt spent some time at London’s SalonQP watch exhibition last week-end experiencing the best of what the UK watch scene has to offer. Here’s what he had to say about the event.

In just three short years QP magazine has established their annual watch exhibition, the SalonQP, as one of the premiere events on the UK’s – and indeed Europe’s – watch calendar. This year the two-day event was hosted in the stunning Saatchi Gallery in London, a fitting venue for a truly incredible display of some of the world’s best pieces of Haute Horologerie.

SalonQP 2011
The UK only show – dedicated to the fine art of high-end watchmaking and all the artistic works that it entails – featured exhibits from a number of the major players, from Lange & Sohne to Zenith, as well as displays from a several home grown talents including the phenomenal talents of the late George Daniels to the more modern designs of Grahams London, plus talks and debates covering a range of topics including the quartz crisis and the continued resurgence of German watch-making.

From the moment you walk up to the Satchi Gallery you are struck by its sheer size and impressive presence. Yet this awestruck feeling is almost all but forgotten as soon as you step through the doors into a horological wonderland. The impressive displays containing some of the world’s best timepieces contrast starkly against the whiteness of the gallery, creating an almost surreal effect.

The first stand I came across was that of Italian jewellery and watch-maker, Bulgari. On display was their breathtaking Gerald Genta Magsonic in rose gold featuring a Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon movement complete with Westminster Chime grand and little strike on four gongs (pictured at top). Each piece takes a full year to create and finish and is presented in a special box designed to amplify the sound of the chimes. Of course to get the watch out of the box you first need to scan your finger through the fingerprint recognition software. Not bad for £535,000, although my personal favorite is the Octo Chronographe Quardi Retro jump hour in Rose Gold with leather strap.

Bremont’s first bespoke Marine clock, hand-painted by rock’n'roll legend Ronnie Wood.

Next up is Bell & Ross, showcasing a custom motorcycle complete with a watch on the tank, then on to the superb Tag Heur Mikrotimer Flying 1,000th concept which records time to a mind bending 1,000th of a second. A stop at the Harry Winston stand affords an opportunity to gawk at their unique creations which dazzle with both their complexity and their quality. Harry Winston weren’t the only ones packing some star-power however, with UK watch-maker Bremont touting their first Marine clock collaboration with rock ‘n’ roll legend Ronnie Wood – who was of course on hand to lend his support.

A welcome innovation to the show is the addition of the independents gallery, providing a dedicated platform for these high-end niche brands, from the well-established but no less awe-inspiring MB&F with their futuristic Thunderbolt to the up-and-coming Schofield Watch Company who launched their new Signalman GMT timepiece available in stainless steel or DLC which I’m sure will take off after the show if the owner and designer are anything to go by. Also on show was the exquisite Chapter One Round from Maitres du Temps, featuring a world first combination of complications: tourbillon, monopause chrono, retrograde date and GMT with 2 rolling bars for day and phase of moon.

The newly launched Scholfield Signalman – limited to just 300 pieces

Of course it’s not just about looking at finished products, although that is a very enjoyable experience in itself (believe me!) there are also a number of opportunities to learn more about the complex art of watch-making. You can take advantage of the rare opportunity to participate in a Master-class workshop run by the prestigious Jaeger-LeCoultre – creator of the Reverso timepiece among others, or watch in awe as Corum’s master watch-maker assembles the unique golden bridge movement. Montblanc’s Monique Wyssmueller was also on hand to demonstrate the art of balance springs – a key component responsible for a watch’s timing.

Also for the first time in the UK the Fondation de le Haute Horlogerie staged an exhibition of the history of watchmaking, including rare and important pieces from both Swiss and English collections, a unique event indeed.

The Final Word
With a show like this over 2 floors there is a stand and a watch to suit everyone’s taste, be they traditional or cutting edge. No sales at the show means just friendly and knowledgeable brand representatives on hand who are more than willing to show and explain to you timepieces that you normally wouldn’t ever get to see or hold close up (at least not without the aid of a black American Express card). I personally came away from the show with significantly more knowledge of the inner workings of a timepiece and a renewed appreciation for just how much work it takes to make each of these exquisite creations.

The show runs once a year in London and for anyone with a passion for horolgy attendance is a must.

For more information please visit the official SalonQP website: www.salonqp.com

The Fall is a busy time in the watchmaking world, multiple shows, auctions, Christmas promotions and preparations for the New Year’s SIHH and Baselworld.

It can be difficult to make a big noise when you are an Independent watchmaker but through sheer determination, dedication, and masterful skill, even in these difficult economic times Peter Speake-Marin continues to produce and successfully sell some magnificent watches.

Peter’s first commercial watch, the Piccadilly, used a modified ETA movement, but when Swatch Group decided they no longer wished to sell movements to other makers, Peter decided to make his own. This essentially brought an end to the Piccadilly but launched the highly successful Marin range.

Due to the cost of development and the low volume nature of these new watches prices had to rise above the approximate 12k CHF entry price of the Piccadilly, but Peter always held on to the idea of making his watches available to a wider audience; compromises might be needed but he knew he could do it.

The new Speake-Marin “Spirit” achieves this and so much more, everything we have come to expect from a Speake-Marin is here; readable dial, strong lines and the “topping tool” logo. There are a few changes from the original Piccadilly; the hands are filled with Super LumiNova rather than blue steel, the dial is now beautifully screen printed rather than enamel, but the case is essentially the same and that’s a good thing.

As with the original Piccadilly an ETA 2422 movement has been used but is significantly altered with new German silver parts lifting it above the commonplace. Every change is made with Peter’s core values that should ensure it lasts several lifetimes.

The back of the case has the familiar, small sapphire window showing the signature “topping tool” German silver rotor. However, the markings on the back are considerably different, much more like the Marin 2, but the biggest difference is a new motto along the bottom inside edge “Fight, Love & Persevere” something perhaps to which we all should aspire.

Especially worthy of mention is the strap, this is strong, bold statement, a warm brown with contrasting white stitching and much thicker than normal. It has been available as a special order on Peter’s other watches but nice to see as the default offering here.

With a retail price of 9800CHF and a limited production run of 68 this is a serious Independent watch at an affordable price, if you have been thinking about buying one of Peter’s watches now might be a good time. Expect sales to be brisk, probably best not to wait too long to decide.

For more visit www.speake-marin.com.

Editor’s Note: For those who would like to hear more from Speake-Marin himself, Daniel Katz – the host of DanTown – will be interviewing him via Skype on November 14th at 12:30pm (EST) on www.thatchannel.com.

Last week master watch-makers Greubel Forsey unveiled their latest creation, a phenomenal new timepiece simply called the GMT. Don’t let the innocuous name or the seemingly run-of-the-mill complication fool you though – this may well be the most beautiful GMT timepiece you ever lay eyes on.

It’s A GMT, So?
Right now I’m sure some of you are thinking to yourselves “big deal, it’s just a second time-zone indication, so what?” and that would suggest to me that you are not familiar with the stunning work of Greubel Forsey – shame on you. Read this, this and this and then come back and read this article.

For those of you who already have a healthy appreciation for the enormous talents of Mr. Greubel and Mr. Forsey you no doubt already know to expect that this is not your average GMT timepiece – and you would be right.

Creativity and innovation are the driving forces at GF coupled with an unparalleled passion for attention to detail and high quality finishing and this means that nothing the brand creates is ever just “ordinary”. It is safe to assume therefore that anything the company produces, even down to the tiniest cog, has been through years of research, development, re-working and finally perfecting before it is ever allowed to become part of a Greubel Forsey creation.

In The Zone
That is why it is so exciting whenever the brand releases something completely new, you don’t even have to see it to know it’s going to be amazing. Such is the case with the new GMT. After spending the better part of the last decade focusing on developing innovative mechanisms within the world of tourbillons, the decision was made to focus on creating a complimentary GMT indication.

Unlike other, more conventional timepieces however which generally just use an additional hand or sub-dial to display the second time-zone, the GMT features a superbly crafted rotating terrestrial globe at 8 o’clock to indicate the passage of time all over the world. Made from lightweight titanium the finishing on the tiny sphere is absolutely breathtaking.

This ‘flying’ globe – as it is referred to by the brand – is secured at just one end of its rotational axis – the South Pole – allowing it to complete one full anti-clockwise rotation every 24 hours – mimicking the Earth’s natural rotational direction. What it is really cool though is the way in which the indication has been designed to be used.

The position of the continents can be neatly cross-referenced with the 24-hour, day-and-night indicator on the equatorial chapter ring, with night – designated as 18:00 to 6:00 – indicated by the blackened half of the ring and day – 6:00 – 18:00 – indicated by the white. The window on the side of the case has also been used cleverly to let more light in to symbolize daytime on the globe and also offers the wearer additional vantage points of this fine piece of craftsmanship.

The design of the globe also means that reading it is very intuitive. No matter where you live you can quickly taken in a general overview of what is happening around the world at just a glance, meaning that you’ll never have to worry about accidentally calling an overseas business colleague at 3 o’clock in the morning – again.

Clear Indication
Having said that, Greubel Forsey realizes that their customers value their timepieces as much for their aesthetical beauty as they do for their accurate time-telling capabilities and so a 12-hour second time zone dial at 10 o’clock provides a precise indication of the time in a designated second country or city. This complementary indication can be easily adjusted using the quick-set, dual-function pusher on the case-band at 10 o’clock.

In addition to the GMT display the beautifully finished dial also offers a principal hour-minute dial at 1 o’clock, on top of which is a small seconds dial at 3 o’clock, while at 4 o’clock is a sectorial power reserve indicator. Finally, at 5 o’clock, is a 25° inclined Tourbillon 24 Secondes cage, one of Greubel Forsey’s major patented inventions, renowned for its superb chronometric virtues and reliability.

The reverse side of the GMT features a beautifully crafted ‘worldtime’ disc bearing the names of 24 cities each representing one of the different global time zones. Aligning the relevant city with the local hour on the outer chapter ring – or inner ring for cities with summer time – sets the dial-side globe in the correct position. Completing the display-back is a gleaming sun, providing a visual reference for midday on the world-time disc.

As we have come to expect from Greubel Forsey the GMT has undergone the highest level of fine finishing possible, with the full range of traditional hand-finishing techniques employed including graining, bevelling, polishing, lapping, frosting and flat black polishing. Attention to detail isn’t just important to these guys, it’s a way of life.

Estimate on price is about 510,000 Swiss Francs.

The Final Word
There’s not much more to say about this spectacular new timepiece that hasn’t already been said. It’s a given that it will be a hit with collectors and enthusiasts the world over and it just serves to re-enforce Greubel Forsey’s absolute dedication to achieving perfection in watch-making. Let’s face it, you want one. We all do.

For more information please visit the dedicated GMT microsite at http://novelty.greubelforsey.com/