© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

So it turns out that people who buy high-end mechanical wrist watches don’t just do it because they look cool, they are also actually interested in what’s going on the inside. Who would have guessed, right? Well, Hublot for one, which is why the luxury watchmaker ran their first ever ‘Watch Academy’ at the Hublot Boutique on New Bond Street in London last month. The talented guys from watchanish.com were on hand to witness the show and have provided us with some excellent coverage, including a very cool video. Check it out after the jump.

The Watch Academy

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

The Watch Academy (or WA for short) is exactly what it sounds like. Essentially Hublot invited a handful of its top clients to not only come and learn how some of their favourite multi-part cases and movements are put together but also to experience the process for themselves. Essentially each attendee on the night was given the opportunity to assemble a Hublot UNICO movement and case under the expert instruction of some extremely talented watchmakers.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish

As you can see in the video below though it’s not always as easy as the guys in the white coats make it look, with tiny screws and hundreds of moving parts presenting more than their fair share of challenges for participants:

The Watch Academy – London from Watch Anish on Vimeo.

One thing is for sure though, judging by those smiles it’s a heck of a lot of fun to pull apart a tiny mechanical machine and then try to figure out how on earth it all goes back together. Makes you feel like a kid again, doesn’t it? Of course if it all gets too much you can just take a break, grab yourself a drink and a canapé and settle in for a spirited chat with a fellow watch enthusiast, there’s sure to be a few of them in the room!

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

The Final Word

By all the accounts the night was a resounding success; knowledge was gained, friendships were forged and more than a couple of those tiny f$%*ng screws were lost!

© 2013 James Cole for WatchAnish

www.hublot.com

The post The Watch Academy x Hublot London (Video) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

Building on their successful pilot’s collection Zenith released two new editions of the popular Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 timepiece this year at Baselworld, both with added GMT functionality. One of the models in particular really stood out for me, the 500-piece limited edition Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron.

The Red Baron

The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 series is not a new collection for Zenith as such but there have been some pretty noticeable changes to the line-up this year. Some of you may recall last year’s collection included possibly one of the largest pilot watches we’ve seen in a long time, the 57.5 mm Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20. The only thing more impressive than the sheer physical size of that piece was the surprising level of success it enjoyed.

This year however Zenith made the decision to put the collection on a hardcore diet, reducing the case down to a far more manageable size. Gone are the former hulk-like proportions replaced instead by a significantly leaned down 48mm frame. Despite its smaller size however (relatively speaking of course) the Red Baron edition is no less intimidating on the wrist thanks to its all-black, DLC-coated titanium case and contrasting GMT markings in red on the dial.

Powered by the automatic elite dual time 693 calibre, the clean dial of the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron displays the hours and minutes, small seconds as well as a 24-hour second time-zone indicator. On the reverse side the solid case-back features a relief engraved image of the infamous Fokker Triplane Dr.1, complete with the inscription: Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 – ZENITH Flying Instruments. Completing the look is an over-stitched black leather strap with matching red highlights.

Limited to just 500 pieces the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron will retail for just under US$8,100.

The Final Word

Another very cool piece from the Swiss watchmaker and one that is far more wearable now thanks to its slimmed down proportions. If you’re not into the all-black look there is also a non-limited edition stainless model available that is well worth checking out, particularly if you’re in the market for a good quality, over-sized pilots watch and don’t want to pay IWC prices.

www.zenith-watches.com

The post Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

One of the cooler new independent brands to emerge this year at Baselworld was undoubtedly Breva, who celebrated their inception with the launch of the incredible Génie 01 timepiece. During the show I had a chance to go hands-on with the Génie 01 and to speak with the brand’s young founder, Vincent Dupontreué, about what he sees in Breva’s future. Read on for my thoughts.

The Génie 01

I have already covered the inner-workings and functionality of the Génie 01 in some detail in a previous article, which you can read here and so I won’t be going into a lot of the technical complexities in this article. For the sake of those unfamiliar with the watch though I will go as far as to say that is essentially a highly attractive, mechanical weather station for your wrist, probably unlike anything you have seen before. And, as I witnessed first-hand, it is impressively accurate.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The brain-child of company Founder Vincent Dupontreué, the Génie 01 is the result of a collaboration between the young Frenchman and industry superstar Francois Mojon and his team at Chronode. Three years in development it is arguably one of the more practical pieces of haute horology you will ever come across, and whilst it may never ‘pay for itself’ as they say, it’s weather predicting capabilities will certainly come in handy over the years.

Despite its inherent complexity however two things really struck me when I first got my hands on the Génie 01. First, it was really easy to use and second, and perhaps more importantly, it was really easy to read. The latter is perhaps not that surprising though when you consider that Dupontreué was already a successful entrepreneur in the fashion industry before launching Breva and so he has a healthy appreciation for the importance of aesthetics.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

This becomes even more evident as soon as you start speaking with him about the design of the Génie 01. It’s clear a lot of thought has gone into this process, everything has been done for a reason, with equal consideration given to both function and form. It was important to get things right the first time Dupontreué explained to me as this would lay the foundation for the future models and establish the design DNA of the brand. There are of course always tweaks to be made but certain elements would remain constant in all future iterations.

The dial configuration is remarkably simple for what really is quite a complex timepiece. Two semi-transparent, smoked-sapphire sub-dials are arranged in a figure-8 position across the dial, with the lower disc displaying the hours and minutes, whilst forecast weather conditions are shown on the upper disc. Small seconds are displayed just below 12 o’clock, with an altitude scale arching across the top of the dial.

As a result of the clean design and highly legible indications, reading information of the dial is a breeze and can literally be done with just a glance at the wrist. For example, in the picture below it is about 17:05, we are at a relatively standard altitude and according to the Génie 01 it’s raining outside (which it was, cats and dogs in fact.)

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The other thing that stood out for me was just how comfortable this piece is to wear. Often times owning complex pieces of haute horologerie capable of performing all sorts of mechanical feats means compromising on wearability as case shapes and sizes can quickly become ridiculous (Hublot’s LaFerrari is a good example of this.) Not so with the Génie 01, which at just under 45mm wears much like any other standard-sized wristwatch even in spite of the three dual-purpose crowns that are required to control and set all the functions. It may seem a little strange to say but this is a high-end timekeeper that you can actually wear.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Limited to just 55 pieces in white gold and 55 pieces in pink gold, the Génie 01 is offered on a hand stitched alligator strap with matching folding buckle. Pricing will be CHF 145,000 excl. taxes and shipping for the pink gold version and CHF 150,000 excl. taxes and shipping for the white gold.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The Final Word

Breva’s Génie 01 was in many ways for me a pleasant surprise. I had obviously read through all the press material prior to the show and written a detailed article on how the watch worked in theory however I wasn’t quite sure what to expect in reality. How easy would it be to use? Would it wear comfortably on the wrist? Would it be accurate? The questions went on and on. Now however I only have one question; where can I get one?

www.breva-watch.com

The post Breva Génie 01 Hands-On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

Women’s fashion is rarely practical, let alone functional. A nice pair of Louboutin pumps will assuredly hurt your feet, and the oversized LV bag which seemed like a good purchase on a rainy day, is simply too heavy. In other words, if it looks good, it probably isn’t convenient or comfortable; and if it’s convenient and comfortable, you probably wouldn’t want to be seen outside of your house wearing it. Women have become accustomed to this state of affairs. One luxury watch-maker however has refused to accept this reality of impracticality – how delightfully Swiss – and has instead built a stunning new alternative; introducing the Jade timepiece from Ulysse Nardin.

A Change Is Coming

Anyone who was as Baselworld this year will be able to tell you that a rather dramatic change is underway, a shift in perceptions if you will. It’s almost as though the Swiss watch industry woke up one morning and realized that female consumers have discerning tastes too when it comes to watches, extending far beyond the standard “does it look pretty” test. Ulysse Nardin is at the vanguard of this movement, creating a watch specifically for women that is functional, practical and innovative. Moreover, the Jade won’t ruin your manicure.

I think it’s also important to note that I’m not talking merely of some new fashion watch here. The Jade timepiece is powered by Ulysse Nardin’s first in-house designed and produced self-winding caliber for women’s watches, paying tribute to its discerning female client base. Unique in its concept, the piece is designed in such a way that it does not require you to pull the crown out in order to set the time or the date; hence your nails will maintain their pristine integrity, without the need to compromise on the complexity of your timepiece.

Ulysse Nardin Jade

11 years in the making – the forward-thinking Chai Schnyder, Chairwoman of Ulysse Nardin and wife of the late, great Rolf Schnyder  (former President and CEO of Ulysse Nardin) requested such a movement from her husband all the way back in 2002 – the in-house Caliber UN-310 movement features 41 jewels and a power reserve of 48 hours. The mechanical movement is self-winding, adding to the practicality of this visually stunning piece.

The real magic of the Calibre UN-310 however is revealed via an incorporated pusher at the four o’clock position on the watch case which is designed to change the function of the crown. Simply use the pusher to select one of three options, denoted on the dial by three precious stones – winding (Position 1); setting the date forwards and backwards (Position 2); and setting the time (Position 3) – and then you’re ready to go. Just twist the crown forwards or backwards accordingly to bring about the desired effect.

The use of jade in this piece is a gorgeous and unique addition to the styling. Not only has Jade been China’s royal gem since 3,000 BC, but the fact that it was honored as crystallized magic by the Chinese in the mid-Neolithic Age, approximately 8,000 years ago, makes it an excellent conversation starter in even the toughest of socialite crowds.

Offered in an elegant white gold or rose gold 36 mm x 39 mm case, Jade features a sprinkling of 413 diamonds, totaling approximately 1.73 carats, and more than enough sparkle. The top model of the series boasts four beautiful green jade horns that flank the bezel, and a ring of emeralds and diamonds in the setting. This is further complemented by the mother-of-pearl dial, also adorned with diamonds, and protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

The Final Word

Ulysse Nardin should be applauded for its commitment to designing and producing an in-house movement exclusively for women whilst still maintaining a strong focus on eye-catching aesthetics. The ever-expanding luxury watch market is increasingly comprised of women, who are less than content with quartz pieces or modified men’s watches and who are willing to pay a premium, just like their male counterparts.

As such I think that it is a smart business move by Ulysse Nardin to show commitment to both their female and male customer base and encourage any other brands thinking about following suit. The movement has already begun, so either get on board or get left behind.

www.ulysse-nardin.ch

The post Ulysse Nardin Jade – A Change Is Coming appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

All eyes were on Harry Winston this year at Baselworld as industry observers and punters alike tried to gauge what, if anything, the impact would be of the acquisition by the Swatch Group announced earlier this year. Naturally I too was curious, plus Harry Winston make some pretty incredible timepieces, so I made sure to get myself along for an appointment. Needless to say I was not disappointed, and really how could you be when you have something like the incredible Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour strapped to your wrist?

The Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour

Harry Winston are probably best known for their stunning jewelry, with their high-end creations adorning the wrists and necks of some of the world’s most important (and beautiful) women. That is only half the story however as the brand has also been doing some pretty interesting things with watches for a while now, going all the way back to Max Busser’s days when he first launched the Opus concept.

In the intervening years the brand has continued to expand its various collections, offering more and more complicated timepieces, with ever-increasing levels of success. One such example is the superb Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour, newly added to the Harry Winston’s extensive line-up this year.

Offered in your choice of 18k white gold (pictured) or 18k rose gold, the Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour was one of my favorite timepieces from the brand this year (excluding the Opus 13 of course, but more on that later this week.) Before I go any further though I should warn you that if you do end up adding this piece to your collection you are going to spend a lot of time staring at it (as is everyone else, friends and strangers alike.) It’s just one of those timepieces that has that real ‘wow’ factor.

The reason for this of course is largely due to the entire lower half of the dial being devoted to the incredible tourbillon mechanism. I say lower half but that is somewhat misleading really, as this section of the dial has been all but cut away completely. In its place the gorgeous tourbillon mechanism has been suspended, almost floating in space as it were and held in place only by two hand-chamfered steel bridges.

Clever design and a little bit of trickery on the part of Harry Winston makes it seem like the mechanism somehow functions completely independently from the rest of the movement however closer inspection at various angles reveals that this is not the case. The tourbillon is actually driven by a wheel geared to its outer circumference, which is all but concealed (and deliberately so) by the minute track of the dial.

Directly above the tourbillon we find the other technical and visual treat of the Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour, tucked away inconspicuously at 12 o’clock. I am of course referring to the jumping hour complication, which is shown through an aperture at the top of the dial. The focus here is on elegant simplicity, with priority given to function without compromising on form. I particularly like how the minute hand has been specifically designed so that the view of the hour window is never obstructed.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

At nearly 46mm you definitely know you’re wearing the watch but it looks so good on the wrist that I can’t imagine why you would want to hide it away under your sleeve. Plus the ergonomic design of the case and lugs means that it sits quite comfortably.

Powered by the Harry Winston’s calibre HW4401, which according to the brand required more than 1500 hours of development, the twin-barrel movement is comprised of 330 components and boasts a 110 hour power reserve. Production of the Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour will be limited, with four distinct references on offer in various quantities, two of which will be covered in diamonds (it is Harry Winston after all).

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

In terms of pricing expect a starting point somewhere close to US$200,000.

The Final Word

The Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour once again reinforces just how serious Harry Winston is about building their high-end watch business. This looks set to continue under the watchful eye of new owner Swatch Group and suggests we could have some very exciting things to look forward to in the near future.

www.harrywinston.com

The post Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour Hands-On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.