I kicked off the start of this week by taking a quick look at the new Capeland Worldtimer from Baume et Mercier, a handsome multi time-zone watch that gets the job done without breaking the bank. A number of conversations (online and offline) ensued as result and it was during one of these that someone pointed out to me that you can’t really talk about Worldtimers without bringing Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Traditionnelle Worldtime into the discussion.

After all, it is considered by many to be the standard bearer for Worldtimers thanks to its comprehensive coverage of all 37 time-zones. Fortunately for me the brand has just announced a very special edition of the Traditionnelle WorldTime, a piece unique in fact, for the 2013 Only Watch auction and so I have decided to take a closer look.

It’s A White-Out

The original Traditionnelle World Time was first launched in 2011 and as we wrote about it at length at the time (read the original article here) I won’t go into too much technical detail now. Housed in a beautiful rose gold case and designed to be as accurate as possible, the watch displays all 37 time zones (as opposed to the standard 24 generally found on Worldtimers) with the original featuring a beautifully colored map of the world at the center of the dial, with GMT+1 represented by Geneva.

For the exclusive Only Watch variation, Vacheron Constantin have done away with the colored map in favor of a gorgeous, all-white cloisonné enamel dial that depicts France and some of its surrounds. In place of Geneva, Monaco – the city where the Only Watch auction is to be held – now represents the GMT+1 timezone. To add some much needed contrast the day night ring has been finished in a striking red (white and red of course being the colors of Monaco), which really draws the eye.

It’s not just the dial however that has received the ‘white’ treatment, this is also the first (and only) Patrimony Traditionnelle WorldTime to be presented in a white metal case. Given the significance of the occasion Vacheron Constantin have chosen platinum to house their stunning creation, infinitely increasing the value and appeal to collectors, which, once again, is wonderful news for a charity auction.

The Final Word

Undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin piece unique Patrimony Traditionnelle WorldTime will prove a big hit at this year’s Only Watch auction, joining the likes of Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5004T and Claret’s X-TREM-1 ‘Pinball’ edition in raising a serious amount of money for what is really a very worthy cause.

www.vacheron-constantin.com

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© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

At Baselworld earlier this year URWERK unveiled what I can only describe as the most aggressive looking UR-110 to date, the striking UR-110PTH. Characterised by the bold use of red across the futuristic dial, this new watch is the very definition of eye-catching. Scratch a little deeper though and you will quickly discover there is more than just a new color scheme on display here.

Black Platinum

Like some of its other siblings in the UR-110 stable, the UR-110PTH is housed within an ergonomic Grade 5 titanium case, the design of which I can assure you is incredibly comfortable on the wrist. I actually spent a month wearing one earlier this year and enjoyed every minute of it. You can read that hands-on review here. However the UR-110PTH has a secret and one that makes it noticeably heavier than its peers.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

You see, the trademark reinforced bezel, which has been sand-blasted for a stunning matte finish is actually made from one of the most desirable metals of all, 950 platinum. This is of course not apparent to the casual observer as URWERK have disguised the natural sheen of the metal by expertly blackening it, a process they pioneered back in 2006 with the UR-103 Blackbird.

The end result is a very cool timepiece that really stands out on the wrist thanks to the bold contrast of the stunning red dial against the matte black platinum bezel. It won’t suit all tastes of course but those that have the confidence to pull it off will no doubt revel in all the attention it garners, especially because as a URWERK you know it has the mechanical prowess, the bite as it were, to more than back up that loud bark.

An uncased UR-110 Movement in original dress © 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The UR-110PTH will be limited to just 20 pieces worldwide and is available for order now. Of course if you’re looking for something slightly more subdued but still with all the flair and appeal of a limited edition URWERK timepiece, you could also check out the refined UR-110PT with satin-finished platinum bezel and standard color scheme.

The Final Word

Much like the vaunted UR-103 before it, the entry-level UR-110 has provided a great canvas for URWERK’s designers, allowing them to experiment with the use of bold colors and different metals to create some highly desirable timepieces. What I really like about the UR-110PTH though is the fact that it looks so different from anything that has come before it. Whilst this is certainly not the first time URWERK have done a black watch, or even a black UR-110 for that matter, the bold use of contrasting colors makes it feel like they’ve never done anything like this before, which I think is really cool. Not for the faint-hearted, the UR-110PTH is for those who like to show out in style.

www.urwerk.com

The post URWERK UR-110PTH Hands On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

I’ve written before of the importance of having a good quality world-timer in your collection, especially for the frequent traveler (or at the very least those that would like to give that impression.) Girard-Perregaux’s ww.tc worldtimer collection has traditionally featured fairly high on the list but the latest update felt a little uninspired and so I found myself searching for a possible alternative. One of the pleasantly unexpected options I found is the new Capeland Worldtimer from Baume & Mercier.

A Nice Surprise

I say unexpected because Baume & Mercier is not a brand I generally find myself looking at. Not to say there is anything wrong with their timepieces – I would happily wear several of the current models in fact – but more so because it is a bit too mainstream for my tastes. That being said the brand has done a remarkable job of repositioning itself upmarket over the last few years, with the vintage-inspired Capeland collection in particular really hitting the mark with aficionados.

The new Worldtimer is one such example. Presented in a 44m satin-brushed steel case (or 18k rose gold if you prefer), the vintage inspired off-white dial is well laid-out and easy to read. Home time is displayed in large Arabic numerals on the inner track of the dial, whilst the twenty-four time zones of the world including corresponding countries are displayed on the outer ring. To display the local time you simply need select the name of the city corresponding to the time zone where you are, and turn the 24-hour ring until the digit representing the current time is facing it. Then adjust the hands accordingly and you’re good to go.

Powered by a self-winding mechanical movement visible through the sapphire caseback the Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer really cuts quite a dashing figure. As I mentioned before it also available in 18k rose gold however I have to say that I actually prefer it in stainless steel as I really like the touches of blue, as well as the alligator strap in matching hue.

The Final Word

The Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer is for me a classic example of something relatively simple done extremely well. A world-timer in my opinion needs to be a reliable workhorse that looks good with most things, is easy to set and read and is above all, reliable. This new timepiece ticks all those boxes and probably a few more, making it worthy of consideration for the role of ‘travel watch’ in your collection.

www.baume-et-mercier.com

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It’s Friday, the weekend is almost here and that means it’s time for something a little different. Fortunately the good people over at Parmigiani Fleurier have got us covered, unveiling their new Ovale Pantographe timepiece earlier this week complete with distinctive telescopic hands that extend and retract as they sweep the oval shaped dial.

It Looks Simple But It’s Not

One of the things I really like about the new Pantographe is how deceptively simple it looks. I have always believed that the true mark of a master craftsman is the ability to make something incredibly complex appear so effortless to make, when the reality is that they have spent months, perhaps even years toiling away to achieve the end result.

Take for example the unusually shaped hands on the dial of the Pantographe. Putting aside for the moment the fact that they need to extend and retract multiple times throughout the course of the day and night, the construction itself seems relatively straight forward, right? Well, according to Parmigiani it was actually the cutting and assembly of the telescoping hands that proved to be one of the most difficult aspects of creating the Pantographe.

In fact, in order to achieve the desired level of accuracy the brand eventually chose to use state-of-the-art laser cutting techniques, which use water and nitrogen and guarantee accuracy to the nearest 2 to 4 micron and even then it took a year of testing before they were satisfied they had it right.

The Ovale Pantographe

Judging by the end result it was worth all the hard work. Housed within a striking, fully polished oval shaped case measuring 45 x 37.6 mm by 12 mm thick, the Pantographe is available in your choice of either 18K white or rose gold. Those delicate blue PVD coated titanium hands we discussed earlier take pride of place on the face of the watch, contrasting beautifully against the silvered dial, which has been decorated with a special “Barely Grain” pattern. The applied indexes and numerals have also been given a blue PVD coating creating an eye-catching effect sure to draw its fair share of attention.

On the reverse side a sapphire case back reveals the hand wound in-house movement comprised of 267 components in total, including a cam at the center of the movement that is responsible for determining a certain length. This measurement in turn is then used to calculate the adjustment of the hand as it moves around the dial, thus ensuring accurate extension and retraction throughout the course of the day. In addition the movement features two-series coupled barrels, working together to provide a maximum power reserve of 8-days (192-hours), which can be tracked via the power reserve indicator back on the dial side.

As we’ve come to expect from Parmigiani the movement has been finished to a very high standard and includes “Côtes de Genève” decoration, perlage and hand-bevelled bridges. Finishing the look off is a supple Hermes alligator strap with ardillon buckle.

The Final Word

The Ovale Pantographe from Parmigiani Fleurier is a great option for those looking for a classic dress watch but who still want to stand out from the crowd, albeit in a slightly more subtle way. It’s not overly complex relative to some of Parmigiani’s other timepieces but it is an excellent example of high quality craftsmanship and the brand’s unrelenting commitment to excellence.

www.parmigiani.ch 

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Earlier this week I posted our first article on the 2013 edition of the Only Watch auction, taking a closer look at the highly imaginative X-TREM-1 Pinball from Christophe Claret. Today I’m turning the spotlight on my other favorite entrant this year, Patek Philippe, and their very special Ref 5004T. Although not as colorful or as playful as Claret’s entry, the unique appeal of this timepiece is bound to get collectors everywhere scrambling for their wallets, which is precisely the point of a charity auction.

Raising The Bar

Every other year a number of brands participate in the Only Watch auction and every other year the level of creativity and personalization among them varies dramatically. Some choose a slightly more lackluster approach preferring to make a few subtle aesthetic touch-ups to an existing model, while others, like Patek, work to create something that is really going to generate a lot of interest at auction and offer long-term value to the prospective buyer.

So just what does make the exclusive Ref 5004T so special? Well for a start, it’s based on a now discontinued model that was produced by the brand for approximately six years before being replaced by the Ref. 5204 in 2011. Even more significant though is the fact that the 36.7mm case is made from titanium, a first for this model and an almost unheard of occurrence at Patek Philippe. You can be sure that this is something that will never again be repeated with the Ref. 5004.

Animated by the Patek Caliber CHR 27-70 Q, the Ref. 5004T is more than just a pretty face, offering split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functionality. Although if a pretty face is what you’re after than Patek have also got you covered there, with a carbon-fiber looking dial that has actually been hewn from solid gold. The carbon fiber effect has been achieved through a special guilloche decoration, creating something that looks unique without compromising on the luxury appeal of the piece. This slightly unorthodox approach may not appeal to everyone but it certainly makes for one distinctive looking timepiece.

The Ref. 5004T will be offered on a carbon-fiber pattern embossed calf skin strap with titanium pin buckle and, I would wager, will be one of the most sought after pieces at Only Watch this year and with good reason.

The Final Word

This is not the first time Patek Philippe have created a titanium watch for Only Watch, and presumably given the popularity with collectors it won’t be the last. What does stand out for me though is the fact that the brand, arguably one of the most desirable in the luxury watch world, has actually made a real effort to create something that collectors not only want but will also be willing to pay a lot of money to acquire. After all, as cool as the watches and all the fanfare surrounding the event are, the focus here is still on raising money for critical research to help those in need. The success of this endeavor rests largely on how much effort the brands are willing to put in and so it is great to see Patek Philippe setting such an inspiring example.

www.patekphilippe.com 

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