© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

At Baselworld this year exclusive luxury watchmaker De Bethune thrilled fans with the unveiling of their new DB28 Black Collection. As the name suggests the collection features all-black versions of their iconic DB28 timepieces, including the 2011 “Aiguille d’Or” winning DB28, which is presented in a beautiful matte black case, as well as the superb DB28T, which is offered in your choice of black and gold or all-black. As you can see in the pictures we got hands on with the latter piece and our lives have not really been the same since.

The DB28T

The DB28T has got to be one of the coolest looking watches going around. It’s not one of De Bethune’s most complicated pieces (and certainly not the most expensive either, relatively speaking) but it’s just got this allure about it that is impossible to resist. Anytime you see one on someone’s wrist (which is very rare by the way) you will feel compelled to just stare at it. Believe me, I’ve been there. Of course this new all-black version takes that effect and amplifies it ten-fold. We horological enthusiasts literally don’t stand a chance!

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The key element in the construction of the distinctive 42.6mm case, including De Bethune’s patented floating lugs system, is black zirconium. This unusual material, the use of which was previously limited to the dial of the DB28, offers something of a visual treat for onlookers, revealing different shades of intensity ranging from anthracite grey to intense black depending on the light and the way the model has been finished. On the wrist it is supremely comfortable thanks to the floating lugs system mentioned earlier, which allows the watch to almost mould itself to the contours of your arm, ensuring the best fit possible.

Of course it’s not just the good looks that make the DB28T so attractive, it also has the brains to match. Powered by the DB Calibre 2009, a mechanical hand-wound movement equipped with a self-regulating twin barrel and De Bethune’s lightweight silicon/titanium tourbillon, this is a serious piece of haute horology. Developed in-house the specially designed tourbillon weighs a mere 0.18 g, and sits inside a carriage that spins on its axis every 30 seconds. According to the brand this tourbillon is the lightest on the market (classic tourbillons are four times heavier) and comprises 57 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams!

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Presented on an extra supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle the DB28T Black is a must have for any serious collector. The only acceptable alternative is to get the Black Gold, complete with striking rose gold bezel. Your choice.

The Final Word

At the heart of things the DB28T Black is more or less an aesthetic reinterpretation of a flagship model and so in many cases I would just say ‘big deal, it’s the same watch just in a different color case.’ But this is De Bethune we’re talking about here. Enough said.

www.debethune.com

The post De Bethune DB28T Black Hands On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

What do you do if you are a small brand with a huge amount of potential? Well, if you’re Arnold & Son you create the world’s thinnest tourbillon timepiece – as well as swag of other incredible timepieces – and take the fight directly to the big guys, generating a whole heap of press coverage in the process. It’s a bold move to be sure but as I saw when I met with the brand at Baselworld last month, they have no intention of backing down now. Intrigued I got hands-on with the superb new UTTE timepiece to see for myself what all the fuss was about.

It’s Thin.

And I mean really thin! With an overall case thickness that measures just 8.34mm, the UTTE almost defies belief. It’s so slim and light on the wrist that you almost forget you’re wearing anything at all. It’s so thin that my mind had a real hard time coming to terms with the fact that there was a complex mechanical movement beating inside. Of course all you need to do is turn the piece over to confirm that suspicion, the beautifully decorated movement is constantly on display through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

What threw me even more than the thinness however was the size and apparent flatness of the tourbillon mechanism on show at 6 o’clock. It dominates both the front and back of the watch and is absolutely breathtaking to stare at, in part because Arnold & Son have placed it up as close against the front sapphire crystal as possible. It almost looks like you could touch it if you wanted to.

The practical benefit of this of course is that allows for additional space savings to be made however it also happens to be breathtaking to look at. You see, because there is no wasted space between the crystal and the mechanism it’s a lot easier to get up close and see all the tiny details with the naked eye. This is aided by the fact that light can get into the movement unheeded, making the UTTE a real treat to hold up and examine from various angles.

On The Wrist

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

As I mentioned before the UTTE is extremely comfortable on the wrist, so much so that you almost forget it’s there. Perfectly sized at 42mm the dial is easy to read whilst the relatively simplistic design ensures that all the attention is focused on the main attraction, the tourbillon. What I like as well is that due to the size and proximity of tourbillon to the sapphire crystal it really stands out on the wrist. It’s quite noticeable, even from a reasonable distance away, making it a watch spotter’s dream.

Two distinct versions are available, one in 18-carat red gold and the other in the more unusual material palladium. Both are extremely attractive in their own right, albeit in different ways, with evidence of the incredible attention to detail and focus on quality to be found everywhere you look. As such, I think it will come down to personal taste which one you choose, although to be honest I would happily wear either.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Each model is limited to just 50 pieces worldwide with the red gold model retailing for US$70,185 and the palladium model just US$61,075. Incredible value for money in my opinion, especially relative to what else is on the market in this segment and once again indicative of Arnold & Son’s commitment to quality and integrity.

For those looking for a more technical review of the UTTE please click here.

The Final Word

The UTTE is quite possibly one of the best pieces I saw at Baselworld this year, offering a rather unique blend of simplistic design, aesthetic beauty and cutting edge engineering and construction all coming together to make it one of the more wearable pieces of haute horology I have come across in a while. Even if it wasn’t the world’s thinnest tourbillon timepiece I still think it would be a hit, which gives you an indication of just how well-made this timepiece really is. Fortunately it is though, so if you want one, act fast.

www.arnoldandson.com

The post Arnold & Son UTTE Hands-On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

This year at Baselworld niche luxury watchmaker Hautlence introduced the fourth iteration of what has become arguably one of their most recognizable timepieces, the HL2.0. For this latest edition, named simply HL2.4, the brand has chosen to case their complex masterpiece in untouched grade 5 titanium. I was fortunate enough to score some wrist time with the HL2.4 during the show and let me tell you, she is a beauty.

The HL2.4

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The first thing you notice about the new HL2.4 is the weight, or rather lack of it. This is a pretty sizable timepiece by most standards – 50 mm x 42 mm, although it does seem to wear much smaller – and so with the gold versions you definitely know it is on your wrist. With the HL2.4 however it’s different. I’m not saying it’s going to disappear under your cuff with ease or anything like that however at just 49 grams I did find it extremely comfortable to wear.

Of course, this is not the first time Hautlence have used titanium in the construction of a HL2 timepiece. The previous release – the all-black HL2.3 – also boasted a titanium case, albeit one that had received a black DLC coating. The HL2.4 however has been designed moreso with purists in mind, those who want something on their wrist that will really stand out on those extra special occasions without becoming dated.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The overall design of the dial is somewhat monochrome, causing it to almost meld into the complex architecture of the movement. The clever but sparing use of contrasting colors where necessary however ensure that legibility is not compromised, instantly drawing the eye to the important details without being overpowering.

The in-house HL2.0 movement remains unchanged however I find it no less mesmerizing to stare at than I first did when the HL2 collection was first received a few years back. Now that the watch is lighter it’s even easier to hold it up to the light at various angles and examine the incredible architecture of the HL 2.0 movement in detail. The chains, the mobile bridge movement, the half-trailing hours, it’s all there waiting to be discovered by you.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Best of all though is the price. At CHF180,000 incl. taxes (approx. US$186,000) the HL2.4 is priced significantly lower than its elder siblings, reflecting Hautlence’s desire to create more accessible timepieces across the entire range. Production is limited to just 28 pieces in total however so if you want one I suggest you get your order in now.

The Final Word

As I have written about previously Hautlence it seems is gearing up for some pretty big things in the coming years. New ownership, much needed additional investment and clarification of direction have all given this young(ish) brand a renewed sense of optimism. They know where they want to go now, it’s just a matter of getting there.

www.hautlence.com

The post Hautlence HL2.4 Hands-On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

One of the surprise hits this year at Baselworld was Antoine Martin’s Slow Runner timepiece, complete with over-sized balance wheel. Mesmerizing to look at the Slow Runner has been designed to remind us all to slow down, take our time and really ourselves. After all, isn’t that what’s life is all about?

The Slow Runner

As I have discussed before in a previous article, the Slow Runner is quite possibly one of the most counter-intuitive timepieces you will come across this year. The third collection to come from this innovative watch manufacturer – co-founded by industry veteran and master watchmaker Martin Braun – the Slow Runner firmly establishes Antoine Martin as an exciting young force to be reckoned with.

I have already covered how it all works in detail in an earlier write-up, so the focus here will be instead on how it looks and feels in the flesh. The short answer is pretty damn good. Solid and substantial without being bulky on the wrist (Jenifer tried one on too and reported that it was also comfortable on her more slender wrist), the Slow Runner feels well-made and is easy to read thanks to its clean dial design.

The focus of the Slow Runner’s face is on the seconds indicator, which provides a graphical illustration of Antoine Martin’s ‘Slow Run’ approach on a large sub-dial at six o’clock. The seconds hand advances at a rate of exactly twice per second, a dead giveaway to those in the know that something is a little different about this timepiece. To the right is the time and date display, whilst a power-reserve indicator at 10 o’clock lets you keep track of the hand-wound movement’s remaining 92 hour power reserve.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Turn the piece over and you are instantly rewarded with uninterrupted views of that incredible 24mm balance wheel complete with striking blue silicium balance spring, beating at a steady rate of just 7,200 hbph or one hertz. The entire philosophy of the Slow Runner is captured in this one instant and to be honest it is difficult to look away.

Despite the relative simplicity of the movement (meaning there are no additional complications) I somehow found it absolutely mesmerizing. That’s not a complaint mind you but I must admit I did find it somewhat surprising, especially in the face of all the other incredible complications we had already witnessed that day and I think it speaks volumes about the overpowering appeal of the Slow Runner.

The 2013 Slow Runner collection is comprised of three different versions, two in stainless steel (one with a silver dial and the other black) and the third in rose gold (also with a silver dial). These are intended as entry-level pieces for Antoine Martin and really anchor the brand, so the pricing is also very reasonable at just CHF 19,500 (approx US$20,650) + taxes for the stainless steel models and CHF 34,500 (US$36,500) + taxes for the rose gold version.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The real challenge of course comes in picking your favorite. I quite liked the rose gold version however I would be just as happy with the stainless steel version with black dial.

The Final Word

Judging by the popularity of the Slow Runner collection at Baselworld I would say that Antoine Martin have another hit on their hand and one that is far more accessible to watch lovers everywhere. Of course the flipside to this is that may be difficult to get your hands on one but trust me, there well worth the wait. Besides, what’s the rush? Take your time and enjoy yourself. As they say, all good things to those who wait.

www.antoinemartin.ch

The post Antoine Martin Slow Runner Hands On (Live Pics) appeared first on The Watch Lounge.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

Since the launch of the original Sequential One timepiece all the way back in 2009, tiny independent watchmaker Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (aka MCT Watches) has had my attention. Determined to be different the young brand blazed its own trail, coming out with a unique jumping hour complication quite unlike anything I had seen before.

As I wrote about a few weeks ago though, in spite of this firecracker start things unfortunately went a little quiet over the intervening years, for various reasons. Now, new owners, new leadership and a talented new designer are determined to change all that, starting with Baselworld 2013. I spent some time with the brand during the fair, getting hands on with the new S110 collection and chatting with incoming CEO Francois Candolfi (formely of Audemars Piguet and Swatch Group) about his plans for the future. Suffice to say, there are some exciting times ahead.

Building the Brand

It seems the general consensus these days is that in order to classify yourself as a ‘real’ watch brand you need to have at least three distinct collections on offer. The main reason for this is that whilst the initial collection – the Sequential One in the case of MCT – launches your brand and introduces you to the world, it is the follow-up two collections that reinforce your message and really establish you as a serious contender who is likely to be around for the years to come.

MCT so far have not really gotten past this first stage, although the new S110 collection launched at Baselworld is definitely a step in the right direction. More of a range extension than a new series it nevertheless gives some insight into the brand’s longer-term strategy and more importantly puts MCT back on people’s radar. Not to mention the fact that it looks great in the flesh.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The S110 Titanium

Presented in a 45mm titanium case the futuristic looking S110 really stands apart from its predecessor thanks to updated, fresh-faced design. Everything has really been opened up on the dial, with all superfluous details stripped away. Despite the relatively simplistic monochrome styling however, the watch is striking on the wrist, really standing out a lot more than I expected. Legibility of the hour numbers has also been further enhanced (if that’s even possible) by making them slightly larger and using a different font style.

As with the original, the S110 is extremely comfortable on the wrist due to its lightweight construction and thanks to its relatively flat profile slides under the cuff with the minimum of fuss. Although to be honest I’m not sure I could bring myself to cover that beautifully skeletonized and hand-engraved dial, which, as I’ve said previously, kind of reminds me somewhat of a computer circuit board (albeit very much in a good way).

I must admit that I was more than a little surprised at how much I liked the titanium version on the wrist, as originally I was going in thinking that the black DLC variant with red numbers was the watch for me. And whilst I am still a big fan of the black DLC model, I think I could really see myself wearing the titanium version on a daily basis.

© 2013 Adam Priscak for WatchAnish and TWL

The movement is more or less that same as the original, which I think is fine given the relatively short time-frame the new owners had to get themselves ready for Baselworld. That being said, Candolfi told (and also showed me) some of the brand’s plans for the near future and let’s just say we could have some very cool things to look forward to from this young watchmaker in the next 12 to 18 months.

What also makes the new S110 collection so attractive is the price. Starting from around CHF79,000 (US$81,000) and ranging up to CHF85,000 (US$87,300) this is quite a bit lower than the cost of the original S1 and reflects MCT’s desire to bring a broader offering to the market. The lower prices are not a reflection on quality of course but rather on the brand’s decision not to use precious metals such as white and red gold for the cases and dials.

From my point of view this makes it a very attractive option for those looking for something really different that will stand out on the wrist, whilst still offering a level of versatility and wearability not often associated with watches of this caliber (or price tag.)

The Final Word

It seems that MCT Watches are off to a great start with the new S110 collection. They have obviously been listening to the feedback from the market and their own clients and are now working towards building a more diversified offering that establishes them as a permanent member of the high-end, independent watchmaking elite. Only time will tell whether they will be successful or not but based on the initial results the future is looking bright.

www.mctwatches.com

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