Regular visitors to The Watch Lounge will no doubt be familiar with both the names Speake-Marin and Ming Thein. The former is an exceptionally gifted independent watchmaker whose timepieces we have featured numerous times here on the site, whilst the latter is a superbly talented photographer who’s work, funnily enough, we have also featured on the site (here and here)! Now, for the first time, we have the opportunity to present the two together, in the form of Thein’s stunning photos of the one-of-a-kind Immortality piece by Speake-Marin.

Immortality
I’m going to keep the words to a minimum for this one and let the photos tell the story (you can thank me later). By way of background however ‘Immortality’ was specially commissioned for the Asian market to commemorate the current lunar year of the dragon and is a piece unique. The stunning solid silver dial has been  hand-engraved by none other than master engraver Kees Engelbarts and features an incredibly detailed dragon.

As you can see in the photos the attention to detail is sublime, truly showcasing the exceptional talents of all involved. It really is a work of art.

Please note that all images are the copyrighted work of Ming Thein.

For more from Speake-Marin please visit their official website: www.speake-marin.com

For more of Ming Thein’s unbelievable photography please visit his official website: www.blog.mingthein.com

Featured in the video is Max Schweizer, a very well-known and highly respected watchmaker with over 30-years experience based in Sydney, Australia. His company Max Schweizer Swiss Watch Repair is a factory authorized service agent for the likes of Patek Philippe and Piaget amongst others, and Schweizer himself is also specialized and factory trained for Rolex, Chopard and IWC repairs and I can only assume it is one or several of the latter that is causing all the concern.

To be honest I am somewhat conflicted by this video. The strategist in me understands the reasoning behind the brands’ decision to bring repairs in-house, after all it makes sense on multiple levels. Not only does it allow them to ensure quality control standards are maintained it also allows them to maintain a closer relationship with the customer over the lifetime of their purchase. And let’s face it, for all the incredibly talented watchmakers/repairers out there like Max Schweizer there are just as many, if not more, who are somewhat less shall we say ‘gifted’ and who may end up doing more harm than good to your precious timepiece.

On the other hand the artisan in me is profoundly moved by this somewhat saddening evolution of the industry, a development which may well be the death knell for what is already a dying art, especially in Australia. Not to mention the fact that it will severely limit the choices available to the consumer, as Max himself points out in the video.

In the end it’s up to you to make your own decision, either way it is a very well executed video and one certainly worth watching. Of course if you would like to do more than just watch, you could visit the official Save The Time website and sign their petition…

It’s been quite some time since we featured a Hublot timepiece here on TWL but when the brand teamed up with one of our favorite characters in the industry we just couldn’t resist. And so without further ado, we give you the Skull Bang, a limited edition collector’s timepiece produced in collaboration with Chronopassion’s flamboyant owner, Mr Laurent Picciotto.

The Picciotto Factor
Picciotto’s relationship with Hublot is quite an important one, he opened the brand’s first ever boutique, in Paris in 2007 and has continued to contribute to their success in his role as somewhat of an informal ambassador for the brand. As such it seems that this collaboration has been a long-time coming.

Presented in a classic 45 mm Fusion case made of black ceramic and satin finished, the overall effect of the Skull Bang is quite subtle and yet in your face at the same time. This is in no small part thanks to the distinctive skull placed in the middle of the black dial, the latter of which has been finished with a galvanic sunburst pattern.

© Stephane de Bourgies 2012

Although the watch is all black the use of different finishes gives it plenty of character. For example the ceramic bezel has been satin finished whilst the H-shaped countersunk screws are PVD titanium. The bezel lugs are made of black composite resin and the crown is polished ceramic complete with Hublot logo.

What I really like however is that unlike some other so-called “collaborations” with brand ambassadors the Skull Bang really exhibits Picciotto’s trademark rock’n’roll style and unconventional attitude, as you can see in the picture below. In short, it’s a really cool looking timepiece.

© Stephane de Bourgies 2012

Animating the Skull Bang is a self-winding caliber HUB 1112 complete with 42-hour power reserve and date function.

Presented on a leather strap with black PVD steel folding clasp the Skull Bang is a limited edition of just 100 pieces and as you would expect each one is available exclusively from Picciotto’s Hublot boutique at Rue Saint Honoré in Paris for the reasonable price of US$12,280.

The Final Word
When it comes to collaborations and limited edition timepieces, Hublot are undeniably king. Admittedly though they don’t always get it right, at least from a personal standpoint anyway, but in this case I think they’ve really done both the timepiece and the collaborator justice. Certainly this is not a watch that will suit all tastes but for those who like to walk a little on the wild side, this may just be the piece for you.

For more information please visit the official Hublot website: www.hublot.com

Remember the name Habring² the next time you’re in the market for a new chronograph. Maybe even write it down because, despite their reputation for quality, this small husband and wife operated Austrian brand has managed to fly pretty much under the radar. That is until now at least. After unveiling their new Doppel 2.0 Doppelchronograph earlier this year they have quickly captured the attention of aficionados everywhere and with good reason, this is one seriously slick timepiece.

The Doppelchronograph
Although the Doppel 2.0 delivers superbly in the looks department, it’s the impressive backroom mechanics that have got watch lovers everywhere reaching for their wallets and for one reason in particular. You see this timepiece features a double-chronograph mechanism, the same mechanism (albeit with some improvements) that the brand’s founder and namesake, Richard Habring, first developed for his employer IWC over twenty years ago.

Instantly recognizing the value of this invention, IWC patented the mechanism ensuring it would only feature exclusively in their timepieces, including the Pilot Doppelchronograph as well as versions of the Portuguese Chronograph amongst others. Well now that patent has expired, giving Mr. Habring the opportunity to reclaim what was once his.

Of course the real winners out of all this are us. At just 6,000 Euro the new Doppel 2.0 represents incredible value for money and the limited production numbers (estimated output is around 12 pieces per variation a year) guarantees a level of exclusivity that the big brands simply can’t offer in this price bracket.

Presented in a 42mm stainless steel case the beautifully balanced dial will be offered in your choice of grey, blue or brown with matching strap. Personally I am torn between the gray and the blue but judging by the amount of attention this timepiece is garnering I’m not sure one can afford to be too picky. Like they say, if you wait too long you might miss out altogether!

The Final Word
I know it sounds cliché but it really is wonderful to hear about these small, family-run brands succeeding in what is in reality a very competitive industry. The Doppel 2.0 demonstrates once again that you don’t have to do anything over the top to stand out, you just have to love what you do and do it well.

For more about Habring² please visit their official website: www.habring2.com or checkout their Facebook page (they could use some more likes!)

To celebrate the ‘super Moon’ – or for those who are more scientifically inclined, perigee moon – phenomenon that occurred this past weekend I thought it would be cool to take a closer look at another ‘super moon’ of sorts, the Stepan Sarpaneva Korona Moonshine.

Bold Faced
The Moonshine is an unusual timepiece in more ways than one and is arguably the most distinctive in the Sarpaneva line-up. It’s also probably the most impractical too but hey, that’s never stopped us before!

The defining feature is the over-sized moon-face that dominates 90% of the dial. An imposing sight to say the least, this particular design aesthetic ensures that this is not a timepiece that will suit all tastes. Still it does provide an interesting talking point for those bold enough to wear one, not to mention greatly magnifying the effect of that mesmerizing stare!

Around the outer edge of the dial is an hour-ring, most of which is largely hidden from view, however there is a aperture cut-out from about 4 o’clock to 7 o’clock which provides a small viewing window. Interspersed between the hours are small stars another trademark of Sarpaneva’s. Minutes are not shown in any clear format and so really telling time via the Moonshine is more of a ‘guesstimate’. I did say at the outset that this was an impractical timepiece!

What’s really cool though is that Sarpaneva has still found a way to incorporate his trademark moon-phase complication. As you can see in the video below part of the hour ring has been coated in lume, as the disc rotates around the dial the luminous section indicates the position of the moon. As far as I’m aware this is the only moon-phase complication to display this indication in such a manner.

The movement is a modified Soprod A10 calibre, not unlike most of the pieces in the Sarpaneva collection. In this particular instance the mainplate has been modified to accommodate the unique moon-phase complication. As a finishing touch a smaller version of the infamous Sarpaneva unhappy moon face adorns the rotor.

The Moonshine is offered in a 42mm case in your choice of stainless steel or solid 18k red or white gold, whilst the star of the show – the moon-face itself – is crafted from either oxidized sterling silver or 18K gold, complete with black diamond coated skeletonized dial.

The Final Word
Not for the shrinking violets amongst us the Moonshine is a bold statement for the wrist, aptly capturing the lunacy so often associated with a full moon. Whilst I probably couldn’t see myself wearing one personally, I do find it attractive simply because it so unlike anything I have seen before. Don’t let the crazy eyes scare you off however as Sarpaneva is immensely talented and his growing collection of timepieces is definitely worth some more of your attention.

To view the full collection please visit the official website: www.sarpanevawatches.com  

Earlier today I was browsing through the on-line catalogue for the upcoming “Important Watches” auction by Swedish auction house Kaplans Auktioner. After glancing through the usual offerings of vintage Rolexes and IWCs, I was quite pleasantly surprised to discover not one but three timepieces on offer from one of the founding fathers of modern independent watchmaking, Svend Andersen!

Svend Who?
For those not in the know, Svend Andersen is arguably one of the greatest contributors to modern independent horology as we know it. Born in Denmark in 1942 he gained his watchmaking diploma at the Royal Danish Technical Institute before immigrating to Switzerland in 1963.

Despite being immensely talented he did not gain any level of notoriety until he decided to show the world what he was truly capable of by building a clock in a bottle, a feat that earned him the title “the watchmaker of the impossible.” It is also scored him a job in the complications department of Patek Philippe under Max Berney, the company’s most accomplished watchmaker and a legend in his own right.

In 1979 he set up his own workshop, spending much of his time restoring the watches in Patek Philippe’s private collection for the publication of the Huber/Banbery book, whilst also beginning to work on the development of his own timepieces. His reputation continued to grow over the years and in 1985 he co-founded the AHCI with Vincent Calabrese, an initiative that would eventually lead to the unprecedented acknowledgement of the talents of the independent watchmakers behind the invention of some of the world’s most desirable complications and timepieces.

The Watches On Offer
As I mentioned at the start there a three Svend Andersen timepieces on offer, each as distinct as the next:

Orbita Lunae

© Kaplans Auktioner 2012

First, the gorgeous Orbita Lunae, individually numbered No.6 of just 31 pieces, complete with certificate of origin signed by Andersen himself (although it is not dated). Recognised as an expert in lunar calendars, Andersen claims that the idea for this Orbita Lunae automatic came to him while designing a Jewish calendar for Alain Silberstein in 1995.

A specially designed disc featuring two gold moons and two blue circles rotates at around half the speed of the dial, compensating for the 10 days difference between the lunar and solar year. To make this possible 2 ½ days are added every 2 months for a total of 15 days a year. The adjustment of the calendar five times a year (in months of fewer that 31 days) removes the five surplus days.

© Kaplans Auktioner 2012

This particular piece comes in an 18k pink gold 38mm case and is dated at around 2001. The starting bid price is 79,000kr or about US$11,500, which I think is pretty reasonable for such a cool and unusual timepiece.

For more information on this piece please click here.

Perpetual Secular Calendar

© Kaplans Auktioner 2012

Next up is arguably the most complicated of the three timepieces on offer, the Perpetual Secular Calendar. Based on a modified ETA 2892 this is the only timepiece in the world to be able to correctly display the secular calendar, based on a 400-year cycle, without the need for adjustment by the wearer. The automatic movement has a wheel that completes one revolution every 400 years, overriding the normal leap year cycle in the years 2100, 2200 and 2300 to give their Februaries 28 days. On the reverse side of the case are the specific indications for this unique complication, including the ‘year’ indicator, which completes one full revolution ever 50 years!

© Kaplans Auktioner 2012

Offered here in an 18k gold 41mm case with box and papers, the starting price for the Perpetual Secular Calendar is again quite reasonable at just 89,000kr or US$13,000.

For more information on this piece please click here.

Montre à Tact (second generation)

© Kaplans Auktioner 2012

Last but not least is this distinctive second generation Montre à Tact, a piece unique complete with custom Tiger motif. The design is really something special and was inspired by a pocket-watch invented in 1798 by the great Abraham Louis Breguet, which allowed the user to discreetly ‘feel the time’ without having to rudely pull their watch out in public. In the same way Andersen’s Montre à Tact features a small window on the side of the case between the lower lugs at 6 o’clock, allowing for a clear view of the time without requiring you to turn your wrist.

© Kaplans Auktioner 2012

The 18k white gold/gold 42mm case is unusual also in the sense that it does not have a crown and so must be kept in its box on the revolving support when not worn. The Tiger on the dial has been hand-painted by an artist in Paris and the piece is dated at around 2004. Starting price is a little higher than the other two, although not prohibitively so, at 98,000kr or US$14,300.

For more information on this piece please click here.

The Final Word
It’s not often that you see vintage Svend Andersen timepieces in circulation and even rarer still that you get the opportunity to purchase one, let alone three. Personally speaking, as much as I like the Orbita Lunae my money is on the Perpetual Secular Calendar, for no other reason than the fact that it’s complete impracticality makes it undeniably cool.

The Kaplans Auktioner ‘Important Watches’ auction will take place this Saturday, 12^th of May, in Stockholm as well as on-line for overseas bidders. For more information please visit their official website: www.kaplans.se

A short while ago MB&F unveiled their fifth ever Performance Art piece – the MOONMACHINE – a mini-event that has completely obliterated any previously held perceptions I had of what the concept of ‘cool’ actually encapsulates. A HM3 Frog complete with Stepan Sarpaneva moon-face moon-phase complication? Now that is cool!

Performance Art
In the past MB&F has worked with jewelers (how could you forget the stunning JWLRYMACHINE created in conjunction with Boucheron?), watch designers (the HM2.2 by Alain Silberstein) and others to create their unique Performance Art pieces but never with another watchmaker. That is until now.

The MOONMACHINE
This latest addition – and one that is quickly becoming my favorite of the collection – is the result a highly successful collaboration with Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, and is the first ever to endow a Horological Machine with a new complication. Based on Sarpaneva’s own face the distinctive moon-face moon-phase complication has achieved almost a cult following amongst dedicated fans of the brand and can be found in one variation or another on many of his watches.

The quality of finishing is superb but what I really love about the design however is its unique ability to imbue the timepiece it adorns with a real sense of character. Even though in my mind the HM3 is already such a distinctive timepiece the effect of adding the moon-face almost makes me feel like I am discovering a new piece for the first time. I know that may sound strange or hard to believe for some of you, especially as we have already seen several iterations of the HM3 before, but I encourage you to watch the video below before you make your mind up for sure.

The slow orbit of the two moon-faces is mesmerizing and the size and openness of the rotor window lends itself marvelously well to the display of this complication. Adding an extra element to the astrological theme the winding rotor, made from a steel and 22k gold disc, has been decorated with laser-pierced stars, forming the stars and constellations visible in the northern sky. As you can see in the video above the subtle effect of its movement only serves to further enhance that sense of animation and life that the Sarpaneva moon-face brings.

The new MOONMACHINE is available in three limited editions of 18 pieces each: titanium case with white gold moon faces in a light blue sky, black titanium case with white gold moon faces in a dark blue sky and red gold case with red gold moon faces in an anthracite sky.

The Final Word
Like I said at the start, MB&F and Sarpaneva together? Now that’s cool!

For more information on this unique new collaboration please visit the official MB&F website: www.mbandf.com

Despite being centuries old the Swiss watchmaking industry is still surprisingly youthful, relatively speaking of course! Many of the brand’s rising stars are still yet to pass their 30^th birthday, making for a vibrant environment rich with creativity and youthful exuberance. In recognition of this Girard-Perregaux has launched an exciting new initiative, a print and online journal called the ‘New Face of Tradition’ aimed at the promotion and celebration of a new and exciting generation of watchmakers.

The New Face of Tradition is in fact made up of eight young Girard-Perregaux watchmakers carefully selected to usher Haute Horlogerie into the twenty-first century and beyond. Among them is Laetitia Pino, a self-confessed puzzle enthusiast who revels in putting complex things together. Listening to her talk about her first passion it’s not hard to see why she has become so talented at her second, watchmaking;

“I became fascinated with puzzles when I was very young. I would see images in books, magazines or in daily life, and in my mind, turn them into beautiful, complex puzzles. I soon discovered the whole process of fitting pieces together and giving life to an alternate world brought me inexplicable peace of mind.

This “puzzle” factor is what inspired me to go into watchmaking; I love fitting the different parts together to create a beautiful timepiece.”

© Girard-Perregaux 2012

Along with Laetitia there are seven other fascinating young watchmakers to discover, each of which I found personally quite interesting and entertaining. With the exception of some of the more notable independent watchmakers it is not often to that you get to see the faces and hear the stories of the people behind these delightful creations, and I feel that this new concept really introduces that human element so often lacking in this, at times, clinical industry.

Echoing these sentiments is Michele Sofisti, the CEO of Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) and one of the main driving forces behind this new initiative.

“Too often brands hide their talented watchmakers behind the curtains of their manufactures. We are proud of the young artists we share our passion for watchmaking with and are excited to show to the world who they are.The New Face of Tradition seeks to break away from the current image many people have of the craft. It is not an antique (and certainly not a dead) art; it is young, revitalized and constantly evolving, much like the people behind it”.

To read all about it for yourself please visit the official website: www.thenewfaceoftradition.com

If so, I want to hear from you!

Too often I hear overseas pundits claiming that the Australian market lacks the sophistication required to truly appreciate luxury watches, and even worse, that there aren’t any serious high-end collectors Down Under! Now, I know that’s not the case (heck, I’ve met more than a few of you myself already!) and so I’m on a mission to prove it to our European and North American counter-parts, but I need your help to do it.

So, here’s what I’m proposing. If you fancy yourself a bit of a collector send me an email and tell me all about it. It doesn’t matter if you have two watches or twenty, I’d love to profile you on The Watch Lounge and share your passion with the world. Obviously I will be respectful of any privacy concerns and will only publish information and images that you authorize.

Who knows, it may even cause a couple of industry execs to re-assess why their products aren’t already available in this burgeoning market!

So, what are you waiting for? Help me prove to the world once and for all that Australians not only ‘get’ high-end horology but they can also match it with the best of them when it comes to collecting!

Of course you don’t have to be Australian-based or even Australian for that matter; we don’t discriminate here at The Watch Lounge. If you love watches and you love to collect than we want to hear from you too, no matter where you live!

So go on, send me an email now!

Regular readers of The Watch Lounge will no doubt already be familiar with the work of Grieb & Benzinger. This small German-based Atelier specializes in the creation of unique timepieces powered by the restored antique movements of past master watchmakers. And so it was with great anticipation that we awaited the unveiling of the brand’s latest achievement earlier this year, known simply as the Blue Danube.

One Of A Kind
The incredible complexity involved in the construction of each piece combined with the rareness of the movements used means that the brand only creates a handful of these individual masterpieces each year. The Blue Danube for example uses a historic base movement originally made by Patek Philippe for Tiffany in about 1890 and features two main complications; a minute repeater and a split-seconds chronograph.

As you can imagine, working with a movement that is over 120 years old requires a great deal of skill, technical know-how and of course patience. Every single component must be treated and restored, with some being replaced entirely (a feat made possible thanks to the traditional watchmaking machinery amassed at the Grieb & Benzinger workshop). In fact, according to the brand, the detailed restoration of the more than 400 components of this movement required intense attention and took more than 6 months. Plus don’t forget they all had to be reassembled to form one functional unit after the extensive “special treatment” they received!

The Transformation
Of course the restoration of the movement is only one part of the process. To make the Blue Danube a truly remarkable timepiece the talented craftsmen of Grieb & Benzinger have applied all their skills to completely transform this historical calibre’s aesthetic appearance.

In trademark style every single bridge has been hand-skeletonized, guilloché and rhodium-plated. The base plate has also been hand-skeletonized and hand-guilloché before being coated with blue platinum, a signature element of the brand designed to honor the famous student of Abraham-Louis Breguet, Charles Oudin, who built movements with blue base plates in the 1820s. Even the wheels have been guilloché, and the heads of all the steel screws hand-polished and classically tempered a cornflower blue over an open flame.

The dial itself has also been hand-skeletonized and features a Breguet frosted finish, a technique developed by the late master of the same name that involves using a combination of oxidation by means of an open flame as well as a special acid mixture. The practical purpose for this application is to seal the surface, thus protecting the dial from oxidation however the aesthetic effect is also quite striking as the process creates a silvery-white surface that is reminiscent of frost.

Presented in a 43mm case crafted from solid platinum, complete with navy blue alligator skin strap with platinum buckle, the Blue Danube is a one of a kind work of art and will sell to one lucky collector for somewhere in the region of US$ 450,000

The Final Word
Although I am more than familiar with the work of Grieb & Benzinger and in particular their Platinum series of one-of-a-kind pieces, it never ceases to amaze me what this small brand is capable of. The attention to detail and level of hand-finishing is simply astonishing and truly is a tribute to the supreme skill and dedication of these master craftsmen.

For more information please be sure to visit their official website: www.grieb-benzinger.com

It’s no secret that that we’re fans of De Bethune here on The Watch Lounge. I mean how could you not be with their impossible blend of complexity and sheer aesthetic beauty? So when the brand announced the release of the new DB27 Titan Hawk at Baselworld earlier this year we got excited, real excited. And so should you.

Entry-Level Excellence
Pitched as an entry-level piece for the brand, the Titan Hawk is the first creation in the new DB27 collection and at a starting price of just CHF 37,000 is pretty reasonable, by De Bethune’s standards at least. Especially when you consider that the Titan Hawk still receives all the benefits of De Bethune’s expert craftsmanship and finishing.

Designed by De Bethune’s co-founder and industry legend David Zanetta, the look and feel of the Titan Hawk is undeniably De Bethune. Although this may sound like a bit of a usual thing to say it is in fact quite important because sometimes “entry-level” pieces lack the core elements that make their more expensive siblings so desirable.

Presented in a 43mm, hand-polished grade 5 titanium case the Titan Hawk’s allure, like most pieces in the De Bethune collection, is in its contrasting simplicity. Hand-polished and flame-blued steel hands instantly draw the eye to the multi-dimensional, silver-toned grained dial, their unique style providing just the right level of distinction without being too pretentious.

The indications are only the essentials; the time and date, two of the three elements required for a perfect evening with Miss Right. The third is comfortably strapped to your wrist thanks to De Bethune’s floating lugs, which are fitted with a patented system of springs that enables the watch to adjust to the wrist and to its wearer’s movements.

On the reverse side a small sapphire display window reveals a silicon and white gold annular balance wheel, powering the brand’s latest self-winding in-house calibre. This ideally modular movement incorporates the main De Bethune technological breakthroughs, such as the self-regulating twin barrel specifically designed to eliminate friction and efficiently transmit a maximum of energy and the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system that reduces potential disturbances due to impacts to an absolute minimum and protects the balance-spring pivots.

The Final Word
According to the brand all of the above makes this latest creation the most complete calibre of its generation, which is really saying something for a watchmaker of this pedigree. Presented on an extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle, the Titan Hawk could very well be the De Bethune you have been waiting for.

For more information please visit the brand’s official website: www.debethune.com.