The Wine Log Blog

Divergent Styles

2009-04-10T16:20:00.002-04:00

It has been bemoaned many a time that wines are becoming more homogenized as the ripe and heavily oaked approach is applied across the globe to make wines that appeal to the majority of consumer demand. This may be partly true, but there are still more interpretations of wine than there is time to drink them all – you just need to look outside the widely available options. Take the following wines for example, they couldn’t be more different.

1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial– Montecillo
Garnet colour hints at the age of this wine. Very elegant perfumed nose and a delicate, nuanced palate. Earthy, light leather and cedar, floral perfume with bright cherry and unripe strawberry notes. There are some burnt and unburnt cigar tobacco notes that are appealing. Very silky mouth feel. Wine Advocate scores this 91: “I was told that Montecillo's cellar master prefers the 1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion to the 1982. I cannot agree although the 1981 is also outstanding…Its stylish spicy, cherry perfume is impressively complex as are the red berry and kirsch-like flavors and there is enough structure to support another 6-8 years of first-class drinking.” Notes on Cellar Tracker read very similarly to mine overall, though my score is on the higher side. $80 94

2004 La Bastide Blanche – Earl Bronzo
This wine is from Bandol, a region in Southern France bordering the Mediterranean. Not a very well known region but one worth getting to know, especially if you’re looking for something different. The Mourvèdre (which has to make up at least half of the blend) is very evident and the Grenache component is coming through too. Lots of pepper and spice with a strong grapefruit rind aroma coming out with a few swirls. Raspberry and mineral/chalk (which I associate with Mourvèdre) coming through on the nose and palate. The finish is sweet and a little flabby. Becomes more monodimensional the more you drink. Reminds me of the 2004 Mas Amiel Vintage Charles DuPuy, but that was better. around $25 91

2002 Oracle Shiraz - Kilikanoon
This wine couldn’t be more different in style from the Montecillo above. Delicate or elegant are not terms I would use to describe this wine. Massive concentration with menthol, vanilla, dark chocolate, black cherry, coffee, and smoke. Long, impactful finish with some spice and kirsch to add complexity. Over-the-top, but I love it for what it is. Most tasters preferred this to the Montecillo, and no doubt all that near confection like concentration is hard not to like. Really, I think it’s more of a preference - the Montecillo is almost as good but just in a different way. around $80, $65 USD 95

Once in Awhile Wines

2009-02-28T17:16:00.003-05:00

One of my favourite things about this wine affliction I’ve developed, and I’m sure I’m not alone on this, is opening that bottle I’ve been saving for a special occasion. Good company, good food, and good wine are a combination that has made for many a memorable evening. To me, great wines always seem better when they are shared. Sure you could drink that Cheval Blanc in a Styrofoam cup at a fast-food joint, but we all know that it would be even better if we shared it with someone we cared about while munching on some tasty grub.

I would never open the following wines on a regular day, not just because I can’t afford to, but because when I bought them I didn’t just think about how good they would be, I thought about the occasion.

2003 Clio – Bodegas El Nido
Right out of the bottle the nose explodes with raspberry jam, plum, spices, some cassis, cured and smoked meat, dark vanilla, and coconut cream. The coconut cream lingers a long time, evidence of the barrel treatment. The substantial oak adds sweetness to the nose and finish, but this wine has the stuffing to carry the oak without being smothered by it. With time in the glass a Port like spice note comes out and a curious freshly squeezed orange juice element. Suave and satisfying. 70% Mourvèdre with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 96 Wine Advocate: “…creme de cassis intermixed with licorice, espresso roast, chocolate, and toasty oak. Its broad, intensely flavored, super-opulent personality offers up great fruit, plenty of glycerin, and a heady, long finish.” $57 95

2006 Amon-Ra Shiraz – Ben Glaetzer
This wine was a stunner. I decanted half the bottle and kept the rest in the bottle which turned out to be a good idea, because some of the delicate aromatics were lost after a few hours – proof that decanting doesn’t necessarily improve a wine. Very deep and engaging, a pure expression of the grape. Savoury soy sauce, Asian spices (cumin, black pepper), fruity chocolate, loads of blackberry. There is something mysterious and dark about this wine that is hard to articulate, like it’s hiding something in its depths. After 4 hours in the decanter medicinal aromas of menthol and an aroma that very strongly reminds me of a topical rub for sore muscles come out. Long finish with well structured fine tannins. 97-100 Wine Advocate: “…smoke, vanilla, pepper, Asian spices, coconut, espresso, blueberry, and chocolate. Thick, rich, layered, and complete, this monumental wine offers extraordinary intensity and length. It requires 10-15 years to fully evolve and should easily last through 2040.” $85 98

2004 Vintage Charles DuPuy – Mas Amiel
And now for something completely different. Ever heard of Maury? Unfortunately I hadn’t heard of this appellation in the region of Roussillon before this wine. It’s made from Grenache in a slightly off-dry style. Strongly reminiscent of Port but with an explosion of spices (black pepper, black tea), nuts, minerals, cured meat, grape skins, and sour cherry jam. The sweetness is balanced out by firm tannins. It becomes more like a nutty Tawny Port with time. This could stand with most Vintage Ports no problem. 93 Wine Advocate: “From Grenache planted in 1914, the 2004 Maury Vintage Charles Dupuy fills the nose and mouth with dried cherries, black raspberry preserves and cocoa, laced with vanilla, walnuts, shaved bitter chocolate, and szechuan peppercorns. This amazingly intense, penetrating, complex wine has a fine-grained tannic backbone yet vibrant forward fruit and viscous, opulent intensity, so enjoy it now or anytime over the next two decades.” $60 94

2005 Château Suduiraut
This comes from the highly touted 2005 vintage this was even better than I expected from the ratings. Amazingly penetrating nose of Sauternes smoke (botrytis), beeswax, caramel, candied pineapple, apricot and honey. Round and mouth coating with a long, long finish. Fresh acidity prevents this from being heavy or cloying. Absolutely love the nose! Not far off from the 2003 Chateau d’Yquem. Noticed some added complexity the next day with Riesling like petrol along with molasses and candied pineapple. Ratings are all over the place with this one: 92 International Wine Cellar “A powerfully fruit-driven Sauternes with superb depth, but it's almost too rich today”, 95-100 Wine Spectator prerelease “Better than 2003”, 93 Wine Spectator after release “…dried pineapple, honey, pear, caramel…”, 96 from Wine and Spirits, 18+/20 Jancis Robinson. $55 for 375mL 96

Mostly South America

2009-01-03T11:07:00.001-05:00

This tasting was based around the theme of South America. Argentina is known for its Malbecs and Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile has been recognized as having the potential for high quality for some time now, so naturally these were the most obvious groupings to structure the tasting around. For good measure a Malbec from Cahors, France was thrown in to compare with the Argentine versions. My ratings were assigned without knowing the Wine Spectator scores to avoid any bias.

Chilean Cabernet

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Domus Aurea (Viña Quebrada de Macul)
This was an elegant wine that displayed licorice candy, wine gum, thyme, red plum, and juicy raspberry character. A light barrel toast comes through in just the right proportion. This wine has a sweet edge and fine tannins, not a burly Cabernet. It reminds me of the 2005 Croix de Beaucaillou. Wine Spectator scores this 93 points: loam, mint, dark currant, fig and cigar smoke, plush texture, a beautiful rendition of cool climate Cabernet. My notes read very differently but I do agree that this is a great rendition of cool climate Cabernet. $39.99 USD 91

2005 Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon – Santa Rita
Right away the smoky effects of the barrel toast are apparent here along with green bell pepper herbaceousness which made it easy to distinguish from the Domus Aurea even when the bottles were blinded. The finish is a little tart and tannic but there is some dark fruit in the middle to hold it up. Lots of mulberry and a pure cassis aroma mingled with vanilla and that greenness. More heavy than the Domus Aurea, but the barrel toast and greenness make it less appealing to me. Wine Spectator scores this 91 points: tobacco, currant paste, loam, muscular structure, cedar, roasted vanilla. International Wine Cellar and Wine Enthusiast both score this 90. Now that I know what this costs I have to say it’s a good value. $19.95 90

2003 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon – Concha y Toro
More depth and length than the previous two Cabs. Vanilla, black fruit (blackberry and plum), sweetened cranberry, light coffee and cigar tobacco with mineral tones to keep it interesting. Very suave wine with depth and class. Not every taster was as taken by this wine as I was, in fact a comment was made that the more aggressive style of the Medalla Real was preferable - wine is after all to a large degree about personal taste. Overall though, it was agreed that this was the best Cab of the lot. Wine Spectator’s 96 point scoring also supported the group consensus: currant, cocoa powder, dark fig, blackberry, loam, cedar, tobacco, mineral and coffee, long and authoritative finish that sails on. Reading the Wine Spectator notes now it’s interesting too see how closely they compare to mine. $70 USD 94

Malbec

2003 Catena Alta Malbec- Catena Zapata
After the Cabs this was a real change of gears. The overtness of this wine appealed to a broader range of tastes. Salty, sour plum, licorice, dark fruits, mineral and a long fruity and salty finish. I’m always reminded of salty licorice candy or preserved salty sour plums when I have a good Argentine Malbec, and those characteristics were certainly evident here. 94 from Wine Spectator: flashy and seductive, blue fruits, exotic mocha and spice notes. Definitely flashy! $50-60 USD, around $60 CDN 91

2004 Le Cedre – Chateau du Cedre
A massive wine! The phrase “It’s punishing, but I like it!” was used frequently, and with good reason. This has immense grip and hefty tannins that need 5-10 years to mellow out. It is mouth puckeringly astringent on the finish but full of tobacco, light floral elements, sandalwood, and cherry cola characteristics that are very entertaining. Only with lots of time in the glass does the sour salty plum I associate with Malbec come out, compared to the Argentine versions which display this right out of the bottle. Frankly, I like this more than the more overt Argentine style because there is more structure and depth. Wine of the Night for Adam and I. 95 from Wine Spectator: “Very elegant, with concentrated flavors of dark cherry, raspberry and cassis. Massively structured, with intense dark chocolate notes and plenty of rich spiciness”. Looks like we agree. $49 95

Also had a 2004 Alta Vista Alto which was flawed. It was not the wine Wine Spectator described as, “Big and bold with tar, loam, and bittersweet cocoa…core of black currant and plum fruit…Flashy, and pulls it off.” 93. Another flop was the 2006 Montes Alpha Syrah which was not up to the 90 Toronto Star rating but not obviously flawed.

2008 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo

2008-12-19T14:38:00.003-05:00

Yet another year at the Expo. Overall I found the wines less exciting than previous years, but there were still some gems. I scored all of these before finding out what the critics’ ratings were, so you can see how my notes and ratings compare.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Clos Pegase
The alcohol came through in the nose along with the barrel toast (vanilla and charred wood). Very ripe plum, cured meat, chocolate, fruity finish, but the heat and dusty wood overwhelm at this point in time. Not as plush as I was hoping. 92 from Wine Enthusiast: ripe currant, cassis, chocolate and licorice flavors, luscious. $50.95 89

2004 Château Le Carillon
At fist whiff there is a dirty diaper like odour that dissipates with some swirling (really not as off-putting as it sounds, honest). Strawberry and cherry, dark stewed fruits, bay leaf, and mineral. Elegant and not too heavy or overdone. 92 from Toronto Life: ripe cherry, plum, leather, mocha, and anise; sweet, elegant and poised, with excellent length. $ 39.95 90

2003 Print Shiraz – Mitchelton
This wine was a nice surprise! The staff who were pouring this one had to convince me to try it, and I wasn’t expecting much as I’d never heard of it before. Rich black fruit laden nose (mulberry, blackberry) with a distinct salty savoury character that reminds me of the 2004 Astralis I had a while back (but this is a fraction of the cost). I find this salty savoury character in a lot of my favourite top end Shirazes, here it reminds me of soy sauce and a sea breeze. Very grippy finish – this will age well. Unbeknownst to me at the time Wine Spectator scored it at the same 92 points. I bought one to cellar for 5 years or so. $44.75 92

2004 Barolo Lazzarito – Vietti
Aromas of faint dried roses, red wine gums, anise, toasted bread. The typical Barolo tar note is here but it seems like a thin, weaker version. Lean and still needs some time, but not something I’ll be adding to the cellar (especially at this price). 93 Wine Advocate: dark fruit, smoke, licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak. 95 International Wine Cellar: minerals, brown spices, Cuban tobacco and menthol. I agree more with the Wine Advocate notes, but not the score based on sample I had. $120 89

2004 Château Climens
This has a nice waxy nose with caramel popcorn, honey, citrus and the mouthfeel is rich and thick with good weight and balance. Good Barsac for sure. 92 from Wine Spectator: “…apricot tart, with hints of candied lemons on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely concentration and a lemony, spicy, almost flinty aftertaste. Impressive for the vintage.” $129 (750mL) 93

2004 Alion
Alion was started by the legendary Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero in 1991. This was more New World than I was expecting with evident oak and the Tempranillo character I like so much was not at the forefront, but will probably become more evident with age. Sweet ripe cherry, cassis, faint cedar and tobacco, and a light floral element lingering in the aftertaste. 96 Wine Advocate. $80.95 91+

2005 Croix de Beaucaillou
This is the second wine of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and not a bad one at that. Light and lifted aromas of strawberry cheesecake, raspberry, and light herbs. The wine is pleasantly soft around the edges and finish. It is accessible now and should drink well in the short term. Looks like agree with Robert Parker on this, he scores it 91 as well. $57.95 91

1979 Crême de Tête – Château Gilette
It’s not often that I get to try a Sauternes that is this old, let alone aged in concrete vats. After shelling out $22 for a 1oz sample I was intrigued by what I sipped, but ultimately this is something I would not buy even if it was cheaper. Rich caramel, citrus peel, some smoke. Turns a little sour and oxidized tasting on the finish. There is a definite mineral aspect to it but not the normal vinous kind, more like water that has been stored in a clay vase. Considering how long it is stored in those concrete vats I’m sure it’s more than just suggestion that it smells and tastes of clay pot. Light amber in colour and faint floral and beeswax notes. I think I prefer my Sauternes oak aged. $195 (500ml) 90

1996 Château Calon-Ségur
This came across very green and smoky – I’m having flashbacks of Niagara. Raw bell pepper, cassis and spices, and savoury herbs. A bit lean and tannic. The finish is not that long. The oak is still strong and the amount of astringency this still has suggests that this can still age another 5-8 years. 92 from Wine Access: “The 1996 may not be as profound as I had predicted from cask, but it is an exceptional wine. Dark ruby-colored, with a complex nose of dried herbs, Asian spices, and black cherry jam intermixed with cassis, it possesses outstanding purity, and considerable tannin in the finish. This classic, medium to full-bodied, traditionally made wine improves dramatically with airing, suggesting it will have a very long life”. $167 90

Niagara Wine Tour 2008

2008-11-15T14:59:00.004-05:00

This year I revisited some wineries I’ve been to in the past as well as one winery that I haven’t tried anything from before, Fielding Estate. I was especially interested to try wines from the unusually hot and dry 2007 vintage and see how winemakers had adapted their techniques to it.

Peninsula Ridge
The wines are usually pretty solid here and reasonably priced. They are known for producing one of the better Sauvignon Blancs in Ontario so I wanted to see what they came up with for 2007.

2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Typical gooseberry and light grassy aromas with lemon and grapefruit lending a sour and bitter edge. A little thin on the palate and the sharp on the finish. A blend of three vineyards. $14.75 87

2007 AJ Lepp Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
This is from one of the three vineyards that goes in to the standard Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyard is located on the lakeshore, not the Bench. Less green and has more weight than the regular bottling, it almost reaches the tropical fruit (pineapple, passion fruit) that you would get in a good New Zealand example, no doubt a sign of the vintage. Mandarin peel and a rich nutty minerality. Slight musty notes. I’m still sticking to NZ and France for my Sauvignon Blanc, but this wasn’t bad. $18.95 89

2006 Fumé Blanc
A light butterscotch bouquet reveals the oak treatment that this Sauvignon Blanc received. There is too much raw oak (plank) in the finish, but there is some balancing done by the ripe fruit (apricot jam). Still not a treatment that I like for the varietal, and certainly not one any fans of clean herbaceous, mineral Sauvignon Blanc will appreciate either. $26.95 87

2007 Shiraz
I’m natural skeptical of using a grape that comes from a warm Mediterranean climate in Ontario. All too often Shiraz/Syrah from Niagara disappoints with under-ripe thin wines, but in 2007 it was possible to almost reach the grape’s potential (but how often will that happen?). This Shiraz had some of the volatile high notes of a cooler climate (raspberry), but surprisingly opened up quickly to show some black pepper, blueberry, and light bacon! Finish was weak, but I was surprised it had some real Shiraz character. Decent value. $14.95 88

2007 Cabernet Franc Icewine
I was surprised to see that they had managed a red icewine with the late arrival of the freeze in 2007. Apparently they had a brief window in January that was just enough. Smells like a Vidal icewine at first, you really have to dig to get any Cabernet Franc character. Strawberry jam finish with faint tobacco noticeable in the empty glass. Not cloying, but not anywhere close to the Cab Franc icewine they have produced before and the price reflects this. $34.95 for 375 mL 89

Angels Gate
The smells of ongoing fermentations were strong enough to make it difficult to really smell the wines well.

2007 Sussreserve Riesling
A little slate and lemon drop with some greenness on the finish. Yeasty (lees) mid-palate with a clean lingering lemony finish. The moderately high acid doesn’t lend itself to sipping without food. Decent value. $13.95 88

2007 Gewürztraminer
Not as floral as I was expecting, mostly spice and lychee nut. Not bitter, but not much in the way of Gewürz to distinguish it. Interesting ginger ale aftertaste. Musty fruit and more lychee nut than fruit. The 2005 was better. $15.75 87

Fielding Estate Winery
Nice eco-barn look with a well lit tasting bar thanks to the large windows. Unpretentious staff and no fermentation smells leaking in from the winery side (though you can see the vats). $2 for 3 tastings, waived with purchase.

2007 Gewürztraminer Reserve
Nice clean floral aromas (white flowers), light lychee and mild citrus. Well delineated flavours mirror the nose. There is some of the thickness you’d expect from a decent Gewürz. Not overdone or bitter; well balanced and clean. $24 90

2007 Riesling
Honey and lemon candy on the nose. This is also very clean and has a good balance of acid and ripeness (off-dry). Light minerality. $16 90

2007 Pinot Gris
This was a winner for sure, so much so that it was the only wine I bought during the outing. Light pink hue from the skin contact. Poached pear and apple skin with a floral must undertone. Not overly complex, but it was silky and mouth filling with just enough acid to offset the residual sugar. Ripe and tasty. $18 91

Malivoire
Some smells of fermentation and fruit flies in the tasting room are irritating. You can have the $5 tasting fee waived if you sign up for the customer list.

2007 Pinot Gris
Apple and light melon with lemon oil on the finish. Good weight to it like the Fielding Pinot Gris, but not as well rounded or crowd pleasing (more acid). $19.80 89

2006 Moira Vineyard Chardonnay
A little too oaky for my taste: butterscotch, with mineral, hazelnut peaking through. Vanilla cream aftertaste. Over priced. $36.80 89

2007 Gewürztraminer
This Gewürztraminer packs a walloping 14% alcohol punch thanks to the vintage and late harvest. 42 hour cold soak on the skins to extract the character from the tiny sun baked berries. Perfect varietal nose, most distinctly Gewürz of the whole day: reeks of roses and ripe lychee. Love the nose! The alcohol does come through on the palate with a little spice. Nice weight of course. Minus points only for the price and alcoholic heat. The price can be justified by the low yields though. $21.90 for 375 mL 92

2006 Pinot Noir
Too much vanilla from the oak with cloves and pine needle notes too. Phenolic, almost aggressive high notes. Astringent finish. Not a fan of this style. $26.80 86

2006 Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir
This has more Pinot character than the regular bottling: earthy beets, cherry, and the oak is more integrated. There is even a little elegance. Potential to age, but still not my idea of Pinot Noir and the price is not reflective of the quality. $42 89

2006 Gamay
Tried this one not expecting much difference from the disappointing 2005, but I was pleasantly surprised. Slight cheesiness (maybe banana skin) that blows off quickly to reveal strawberry/cherry, and some black fruit and floral elements lending depth. The oak, I’m told, was used in a more restrained fashion in 2006 which I think was a good call (this was a fault in the 2005). They also bled off some juice to concentrate flavour (the French term is saignee). There is even a distinct leathery note in the mid-palate that I liked. Reminds me of a good Beaujolais (think Morgon). I can’t believe it, but I actually liked a Gamay from Ontario! And so did the critics: “This is one of Ontario's best Gamays ever, with fragrant bing cherries, coconut and cedar notes, showing lots of depth and endless sweet-edged fruit” 90 Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star. $16.80 89

2006 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer
What a disaster. They opened two bottles, but both were similar. Sharp oxidized nose of Madeira and apple cider. Good acid and not overly sweet, but this wasn’t even remotely recognizable as Gewürztraminer. And this after the amazing 2007 Gewürztraminer. What happened here? $25.90 for 375 mL (yikes!) 74

Henry of Pelham
Same cozy cottage like, and slightly smelly basement tasting room as always.

2007 Off Dry Reserve Riesling
Nice petrol/slate, mineral and lemon. Clean and simple. Lingering lemon aftertaste. Pretty standard, nothing stands out here. $15.95 89

2006 Cabernet Franc
Barrel toast is obvious with strawberry, tobacco, and a little greenness (within reason though). Bitter finish. Once again nothing special but no real faults. Price is good. $14.25 88

2005 Reserve Baco Noir
Lots of vanilla (new oak), herbaceous, sharp raspberry, slight metallic sourdough character that will put off some tasters for sure. Not particularly interesting. Pelham is known for its Baco, but I’m not terribly fond of this vintage. $24.95 86

Note: It seems to me that Pelham, like a lot of other wineries, is a bit stuck in the past. Their wines are all pretty decent, no real faults, but that isn’t very interesting. As the bar gets raised in Niagara those that don’t push the envelope a bit and keep doing the same are going to get left behind. Their tasting room, though quaint, mirrors the wines – they both need some updating!

Funky Assemblage - Pinotage

2008-09-30T20:39:00.003-04:00

Pinotage is a cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir that was created in South Africa with the intension of making an easier to grow version of Pinot Noir. South Africa remains the main source of Pinotage globally (although there are some plantings in New Zealand). Pinotage has had its share of criticism, but now that winemakers have learned how to deal with its quirks good wines are being made on a more regular basis.

I remember my first bottle of Pinotage had me so puzzled I opened up a second bottle just to make sure what I was experiencing wasn’t the result of a spoiled bottle. Since then I’ve had a few more bottles and I still find Pinotage to be curiously funky, but not without its appeal. For those who, as I do, find enjoyment in wines that deliver unique gustatory experiences I would recommend at least giving it a try – and since most good Pinotages are decently priced you won’t have to spend a lot to do so.

The character of Pinotage has been described with terms like banana and rusty nails. I would describe the aromas/flavours of Pinotage as having elements of musty earth, funky ripe black fruits, barnyard, and a distinct bloody/ferrous sharpness that seems to dissipate with air. It would be pretty hard to mistake Pinotage for anything else. In a way it’s like the blunter, funkier bastard son of Pinot Noir.

2004 Pinotage – Môreson
I tried this interesting wine a while back with the Clos Malverne below. The nose made me do a double take: aromas of musty earth, beetroot, barnyard, and iron which soften with time in the glass. Additional elements of smoky spice, raspberry, and unripe strawberry unfold after the initial punch in the nose. This wine won Double Gold at Veritas in 2005. $18.95 85

2003 Reserve Pinotage – Clos Malverne
Very similar character to the Môreson up front but with more toasty oak and a sweeter, riper berry depth behind it. Interesting spice notes (clove and cumin would be the closest match) and black cherry. Blood red in colour to match the ferric element. Probably would benefit from some time in the cellar. Gold Medal at the 2006 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and was also named as one of the top 10 Pinotage wines of the year in 2006 by South Africa's Pinotage Association. So this is obviously a good example of what Pinotage should be, but whether you like it or not is a matter of personal taste. $17.95 86

2007 Café Culture Pinotage - KWV
The price was right so I decided to give it a try after a long break from the funk. As expected the nose is downright funky out of the bottle. The wine is really ripe, maybe overripe with an obvious lingering taste and smell of prune juice. Loads of vanilla from the oak combines with the fruit to give the impression of coffee. Has the Pinotage funk of earth, blood, and some rubber. One way to describe this wine is obscene. I think the overdone oak and ripeness actually moderates the funk here. Not my thing, but I still got a kick out of it. Gold Medal at the 2007 Michelangelo International Wine Awards. $13.95 86

The verdict: I won’t be stocking up on more Pinotage anytime soon, but when I’m I the mood for something peculiar I know what to reach for.

West Coast Cabernet Comparison

2008-09-01T16:14:00.001-04:00

There are many locations along the West Coast of North America that are well suited to growing wine grapes. California, Washington, Oregon and British Columbia all have well developed wine regions. For Cabernet Sauvignon the obvious appellation to look to on the West Coast is the Napa Valley.

An interesting Cabernet Sauvignon from B.C. showed up at the table recently and I took the opportunity to crack a bottle of the same varietal from the best Cab region on the West Coast for comparison. Both are in the same price range and from the same vintage.

2005 Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Raymond
My initial impression was that this was higher toned and less dark and plush than I was expecting for Napa (not necessarily a bad thing). Warm oak tones of vanilla and cedar with plum and cassis, but also red fruits like raspberry. Some spice and savoury elements add complexity. Vanilla, mint and fruit on the palate, maybe some spicy leather hidden in there. The heat from the 14.4% alcohol does peak out in the finish. This was quite lively and less heavy than I would expect from the producer, vintage, or region. For comparison, I rated the 2002 vintage of this wine 92 points, it was rich and reminded me of Black Forest Cake. Wine Enthusiast gave the 2002 a 90 and this wine 93: elegantly structured wine, sweet tannins, blackberries, spicy cassis, cherry pie, smoky oak. $34.95 91

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon – Mistral Estate Winery
This wine was crafted a little north of Napa in B.C.’s lush Okanagan Valley. Though I haven’t tried many wines from B.C. I was quite pleased to give this one a gulp. The nose reminds me very strongly of a wine I had in a past Tuscan wine tasting, the 2003 Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi, because of the bizarre sweet tomato nose. A great wine for ribs or wings with a sweet and spicy sauce. Slightly cooked plum. Grippy tannins firm up the finish. This wine handles its 14.5% alcohol a little better than the Raymond. Different, not bad, but the positive Cabernet character is obscured. $35 90

Tour de France

2008-06-26T20:06:00.005-04:00

After a few tastings without a set theme it was decided that the wines of France deserved a special tasting. After all, what other country has so dominated and shaped the world of wine? France is home to the most expensive and sought after examples of vinous excellence, yet there are still regions that remain relatively undiscovered by audiences outside of France with very little making it into international glasses. With so much variety and quality you could spend most of your time drinking wine from France and not get bored.

With the lure or cheaper high quality New World wines it’s easy to pass on French wines, but the more I come to appreciate les vins de France the more I realize that they offer gustatory experiences that cannot be found elsewhere. If you want to understand Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, or any of the countless varieties that originate in France, you have to try them from where they have the longest history, where they are made better because they have been grown and turned into wine for generations.

Although we covered wines from most of the major regions of France we ended up a little heavy on the Southern regions and didn’t have Champagne or Alsace as planned. In the future we’ll hopefully focus on each region individually.

Burgundy
2005 is widely regarded as one of the best vintages for Burgundy in recent times. Here we have examples from both ends of the Côte d’Or: a Chambolle-Musigny (Côte de Nuits) and Volnay (Côte de Beaune). Both are elegant more ‘feminine’ styles of Pinot.

2005 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes – Frédéric Magnien
Pleasantly perfumed with a floral spice, cherry and raspberry, earthy beetroot, and some Pinot funk (a.k.a. barnyard). Still good after 24 hours in the decanter with its sweet perfume intact and showing more black fruit. This should age nicely a few more years. 88-91 Burghound: red and blue berry, spice, earth, “…structured middle weight flavors that possess lovely detail and nuance though the finish features well integrated but notable firm tannins”. $55.95 91

2005 Volnay – Joseph Drouhin
Round and elegant, this wine has a suave mouthfeel and expressive nose with notes of cherry, wood smoke/incense, light vanilla, loam, and mild barnyard. With air a tar-like scent develops. Like the Magnien Chambolle it also has a sweet fruity perfume characteristic of Pinot Noir. The vanilla, wood smoke and high spice notes show some of the barrel’s influence. I like the interplay of the spice and sweet perfumed notes. $52.55 90

Bordeaux
The best know and most utilized varieties of the region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. The most prestigious wines are usually second only to those of Burgundy in terms of price. Although Bordeaux is primarily know for its red wine the appellation of Sauternes has carved out a reputation for making some of the best dessert wines in the world from grapes affected by botrytis.

1994 Château Léoville-Barton
It was nice to have an example that has been cellared for a while. The nose is pretty expressive with sweet cassis, cured tobacco leaf, light herbs and sweet cedar. Strangely has some astringency that appears briefly on the finish before fading just as quickly as it came. The biggest let down with this wine was the abrupt finish (a quick review of the notes at Cellar Tracker revealed we were not the only ones to experience this). 90 Wine Advocate: serious, classic Bordeaux, a 30 year wine. 90 Wine Spectator: berry, chocolate, tobacco, chewy tannins. $98.20 90

2004 Château Guiraud
An okay vintage as opposed to the 2001 (excellent) and 2003 (very good), but this still had more punch than I was expecting. Gobs of beeswax, vanilla, pineapple, spice (botrytis), peach, and even a little Riesling like petrol hiding in there. Not as concentrated as the 2003 Suduiraut (below), but still good. 92 Wine Spectator: spicy, with dried apricot and lemon character. $39 92

2003 Château Suduiraut
Darker and with more body and concentration than the 2004 Guiraud. Good acidity and long finish. Beeswax and lanolin, a fine sweet smoke like element, dried pineapple (this reminded one taster of Bulk Barn bins). 93 Wine Spectator: pecan pie, dried apricot, apples, syrup, dense mouthfeel, long, powerful and spicy aftertaste. 19/20 The Wine Doctor: “Really meaty, ripe and opulently textured. Lovely substance here, fresh acidity, and stunningly precise, persistent flavours. This is divine. Of every wine at the UGCB tasting, this is the only one I would come back to for pleasure rather than reassessment”. 22/25 Wine Journal (.com): “The palate is well-defined, very elegant: poised like a ballerina on tip-toe”, “One of the best wines of 2003”. $44.65 94

Côtes du Rhône
The wines we tried were all from Southern Rhône which are quite different from those of the north due in part to the choice of grapes. In Southern Rhône Grenache takes the dominant role with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and sometimes Cinsault making it into the mix (along with a gamut of minor grapes).

2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Domaine Grand Veneur
I was very impressed by this wine which I think was at the beginning of its peak drinking window. It was impactful with very open aromas of fine spices (pepper) and garrigue with leather, blackberry, almond, cherry, and floral liquorice. Can’t mistake the origin of this wine, it has Châteauneuf-du-Pape all over it. After the tasting I found out that Wine Spectator rated this wine a mere 86 in its buying guide commenting “not complex”. Wine Advocate scored it 90. Once I calibrated my palate my initial score of 95 dropped a bit, but I still think this wine was underrated and doesn’t take into account how well it aged. $30-40 94

2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Clos Saint Jean
Straight out of the bottle it was acidic and lean but quickly deepened and opened up to a dark balanced wine. Blackberry, black cherry, complex spice nuances of garrigue and cloves, and a sanguine undertone (iron, blood). This will age well which was evident from the fact that it tasted great 3 days later showing extra nuances of pine/under brush. 93 Wine Spectator: fig, currant paste, mocha, loam, tar, licorice. 93 Wine Advocate: incense, melted licorice, blackberry, and sweet cherry, the wine is peppery, spicy, “…superb example of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that should drink well for 10-15 years”. $45.95 93+

2004 Gigondas – Château du Trignon
Lots of spicy high notes (white pepper mostly) and a bitter-sweetness that reminds me of dark chocolate (as other tasters also noted). Kind of like a spiced chocolate with Herbs de Provence and fruit. Grows on you. 91 International Wine Cellar: blackberry, cassis, lavender and graphite, long juicy finish. $27.95 89

Languedoc-Roussillon
Often overlooked, this region produces many wines on the same level as Southern Rhône but for much more agreeable prices. There are plenty of bargains to be found.

2004 Barbabelle – Marc Kreydenweiss
This biodynamic wine from the Costières de Nîmes appellation shows Grenache characteristics of spice and raspberry/cherry with some mineral. Nice balance, not overly done. I noticed some salty liquorice candy and cider/tar notes during re-evaluation the next day. There is also some Carignan and Syrah in the blend. Can’t argue with the quality to price ratio here. $12.95 90

2003 Grande Cuvée – Château de Lancyre
It’s easy to confuse this with something from the Rhône with its spice box, cherry gum, bay leaf, chalk and mineral aspects. I thought it was solid, but was missing some depth. 92 Wine Spectator: savory spiced aroma, dark plum, mocha, spice, impressive structure. $27 89

Loire
Seeing as we had enough wine on the table I chose to forgo the Loire Cabernet Franc I’m so fond of and focus on another overlooked varietal that does particularly well in the cooler climes of the region: Chenin Blanc.

2006 Vouvray Demi-Sec – Château Moncontour
This came across with an almost Riesling like minerality and a very expressive, open nose of apple, plasticine, sweetgrass, and flowers. The ripeness is balanced with a crisp acidity (i.e. those who didn’t like any sweetness in their wines were still able to appreciate this) showing evidence of a well timed harvest. One taster noted “first-aid kit” much to our amusement, but I can see where he was coming from, I just chose to call it plasticine (a modelling clay). Quite palate filling and enjoyable. $17.95 92

2003 Coteaux du Layon Saint Aubin – Domaine Cady
Very concentrated with an almost ice wine like power, but not as syrupy. Green ginger, subtle smoky wood spice, with a rich fruit compote of kumquat and apricot. A little chemical spicy note when it warms up, best served cold. Could have done with a touch more acid to liven it up. If you are so inclined, this will age well for a few years. $25.95 90

Tasting - Any Fine Wine Partie Deux

2008-05-19T17:45:00.004-04:00

This tasting had no set theme, much like the last one I posted, but by chance ended up with more of a French twist to it. The wine we were all excited to try was the 2005 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée, a great vintage, producer, and the rave reviews didn’t hurt either. The Pegau didn’t disappoint, but it certainly wasn’t the only nice wine that we had that night. Let’s get to the point, shall we?

NV Blanc de Blancs d’AΫ – Gaston Chiquet
Not a bad NV if a little simple. Loads of green apple at the fore followed by doughy yeast, sweet floral and spice notes. Clean finish, quite refreshing. Bottled 2007. Around $50 89

2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc “La Crau” – Domaine Du Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is better known for its red wines but the whites can be interesting too, like this one. Brandy flambéed pears, honey and apple with some oak evident (vanilla and a slight sappiness). It has good weight in the mouth, but is not overly complex. The 2006 is $54.95 90

2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée – Domaine du Pegau
After a three hour decant this wine still seemed a little closed so we returned to it again at the end of the tasting, and although it had improved it was obvious that this wine will require some time in the cellar to show its full potential. The first whiff carried a lot of white pepper/grains of paradise and herbs (bay leaf) with bright red fruit notes playing under the surface (mostly raspberry). More air time softened the dominance of herbs and spice allowing some chalky mineral to come out and for the fruit to deepen. Good length, but I was expecting a little longer. Great with food! If I get any it’s going into the cellar for 4 years before I even consider trying it again. 92-94 Wine Advocate: tar, roasted meats, Provencal herbs. 95 International Wine Cellar: seductive dark berry, kirsch aromas, musky garrigue, black olive, dark chocolate, blackberry, bitter cherry, licorice, tangy red berry fruit. Around $75 depending where you get it. 93+

1997 Roccato – Rocca della Macie
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese from Tuscany. I was put off by the leathery barnyard straight out of the bottle but this diminished quickly leaving faint wood, almond, dried cranberry, and floral notes. Elegant but rustic at the same time. It really grew on me the more I drank it. To my palate the Sangiovese is the dominant grape with the Cab lending some substance. Drinking well now, no need to hold this in the cellar. 92 International Wine Cellar: truffles, wet earth, leather, tobacco, anise. $56.55 91

2003 Clos Apalta – Casa Lapostolle
I wasn’t impressed with this wine. Not that it was bad, but I was expecting more for the price and reputation. It didn’t seem to be flawed in any way but it also didn’t resemble the positive reviews it’s received. Sweet tobacco, cherry, dusty tannins, sweet edged fruit, with a bit of heat on the finish. The attack is woody with some mineral in the background. Soft. My notes for the 2004 are similar with the same sweet fruit and tobacco so maybe I’m just not a fan of the style or the bottle was an underperformer. I think it’s a little of both. 94 Wine Spectator: plum, blackberry, boysenberry, mocha-infused toast, mineral and spice notes, fleshy finish has some serious grip. 94 Wine Enthusiast: deep blackberry, prune, earth and chocolate. $90 or more, less in the US 89

1998 Dominus
The long sweetish finish is the first thing that jumped out at me after a sip. Quite sophisticated with smooth smoke, raspberry, sweet vegetation, cassis and plum. The red fruit comes first with the black fruit following through, the two ends of the spectrum balance out nicely. Pretty wine. 91 Wine Spectator: earthy, elegant, refined Cabernet blend, currant, tar, black cherry, cedar, coffee, anise, sharply focused. 90 International Wine Cellar: cherry, raspberry, smoked meat, roasted tomato, earth, tobacco leaf. Price will vary greatly, around $100 93

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
As expected the tannins are velvety and easy going with less aggressive barrel toast than other vintages I’ve tried (a positive in my books). Vanilla, cookie dough, lots of milky malolactic and cassis. Suave and easy to drink but as one taster put it “not remarkable” in any particular way. The general consensus is that it good but not worth the price tag. 92 points from both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate. Around $80 90

Tasting - Any Fine Wine

2008-04-27T22:19:00.004-04:00

There was no particular theme to this tasting, just whatever we had kicking around. Some of the wines were tasted blind for fun and there were some odd wines thrown in the mix too. It turned out to be somewhat educational and a little test of our tasting skills.

Also interesting to note is how some wines that you’ve previously enjoyed by themselves can wilt when compared to other wines in a tasting (e.g. you realize how green a wine is in comparison to riper ones).

NV Brut – Piper Heidsieck
Citrus notes of lemon and lime candy, nutty cashew, leesy/toasty bouquet, slight grassy note. I’m not a connoisseur of Champagne but I was pleased with the weight and length of the finish as well as the fine bubbles. Lacks the carbonated/sulfite sharpness that sometimes affects lesser Champagnes. Reasonable price for this quality of bubbly makes it a nice standby. Rated 90 Toronto Life online: cookie, lemon custard, toast, good length. $55.20 90-91

1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
After other vintages flopped in previous tastings we were determined to find one that would show well. Considering that this vintage scored 93 and 92 points from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator respectively we thought things should play out differently this time. The barrel toasting turned off some tasters again, especially as it became more evident with air, but I think it was a touch better than the 2003. Lots of cassis and some green pepper, still has well defined fruit despite bottle aging, cigar box, and some savoury thyme/tarragon notes. Velvety and rich but lacking some complexity. $55+ USD (the 2005 is $80 at the LCBO) 91

2004 Finca Altamira Malbec – Achaval Ferrer
This wine was tasted blind and when I assigned the rating I had no idea that it had scored 95 and 98 points from Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate respectively. After assessing the wine I was sure it was a Malbec (the characteristics were so overt), but my score was low because I though the wine was a little overdone and awkward. Usually my scores are a little closer to the critics, but not in this case. Overtly fruity: salty sour preserved plum (a Malbec indicator for me), cherry, almost tutti-frutti, and blueberry pie. Very expressive aromatically almost perfumed. A little leather and straw. Obviously malo’ed with silky milk chocolate character. Love the powerful nose (one of the best things about Malbec I think) but the experience in the mouth was too fruity and cumbersome for me. $90-115 USD from online search 89-90

2005 Explorateur Barossa Valley Shiraz – The Colonial Estate
Loads of fruit, jammy, full of black olive and iodine which make the varietal hard to miss. Sweet coffee notes. Super ripe, and to me bordering on alcoholic pop, but pleasant enough if you enjoy the style. The fault for me is the lack of tannins which fail to balance the ripeness, they are too soft. 90 in Wine Spectator. 95 Wine Advocate: blockbuster, white pepper, licorice, graphite, finesse and elegance (I really don’t know where Parker got elegance from, maybe he’s had to many over the top wines). $28.80 91

2004 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Chablis – La Chablisienne
Very nutty! Overt hazelnut in nose and palate, clean mineral with light citrus. 90 from Wine Spectator, but no mention of the hazelnut in the review: “taut and steely…lemon and mineral flavours”. Interesting. $24.95 89

2006 Petalos – Descendientes de J. Palacios
This one was a wild card that we tasted blind. Didn’t have a clue as to what it was. This wine comes from a region that none of us were familiar with, Bierzo. Tutti-frutti, cherry pie, spice (white pepper), grippy phenolic smell, pencil lead, weird! 91 International Wine Cellar: cherry, minerality, rose, “this smells like a great Chambolle-Musigny” (what? maybe bad Chambolle-Musigny), raspberry, brisk acidity. $23.75 87

1998 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon – Penfolds
Strong menthol, red fruit, muted barrel toast, cassis, bitter tannins on the finish, tobacco. Almost like menthol cigarette. Interesting for the strong mint character, but a bit monodimensional. Not surprisingly, several others note mint/menthol on Cellar Tracker. 90 from Wine Advocate on release. Thoroughly overpriced, had no idea it was this expensive when I tasted it. $140-200 (depending where you get it) 90

The Red of Loire - Cabernet Franc

2008-01-14T21:20:00.000-05:00

Underappreciated
The red wines of Loire have to be some of the most overlooked of France, and I’ll admit they were overlooked by me until recently. Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Côte du Rhone garner the most attention and praise, which is evident in the pricing of wines coming from these regions and by the number of well published reviews they get. The farther you get from France the less likely anyone has heard anything about Loire; even within France Loire keeps a relatively low profile. Red wine from Loire is conspicuously absent from the North American market, where if you do see a wine from Loire it’s probably a white from Sancerre.

I think the reason the wines of Loire are so underappreciated and underrepresented internationally has a lot to do with the current preference for highly extracted, heavily oaked, super ripe, dense wines – characteristics that a wine from Loire will not have, and I hope never will. I love a rich and ripe wine, but sometimes I crave something a little different, something that shows more character unique to where it is from. Another factor working against these wines is the few who have had a wine from Loire had one that was thin and overly herbaceous leading them to avoid the wines altogether.

The most notable red wine from Loire is primarily made from Cabernet Franc (know locally as Breton) and in most cases is 100% Cabernet Franc. Up to 10% Cabernet Sauvginon is allowed but not frequently utilized. Under-ripe and over-cropped Cabernet Franc can produce aggressive green notes of vegetation, leaves, and green bell pepper – not very pleasant. But if yields are low and the conditions are right Cabernet Franc can make wines with elegance, depth, and loads of character. Violets, tobacco, fig, and strawberry are common aromas in wines made from Cabernet Franc.

Here are the reasons I think more people should give Cabernet Franc from Loire a first or second look:

The best examples have a floral perfume and elegance not unlike some Burgundian wines.

They are ideal food wines because they are not overly tannic or heavy and have good acidity; instead of distracting from the food they compliment it.

The wines communicate the uniqueness of Cabernet Franc and their terroir very well.

They are very expressive aromatically.

Great value. Since they are not highly sought after the best wines still have moderate prices. You will notice that none of the wines reviewed below are over $25 and my favourite turned out to be under $14. Couly-Dutheil’s flagship wine Clos de l'Echo Crescendo regularly comes in under $50 even with the LCBO’s markup (the 2003 received 93 from Wine Spectator). It really doesn’t cost much to explore these wines.

The bottom line: intriguing wines verging on under priced that go well with a wide range of food. What’s not to like? I was sold after I tired La Coudraye from Yannick Amirault for the first time despite the fact I wasn’t expecting much. Drinking my first 2003 La Coudraye was one of my most memorable wine moments of 2007, and it kindled my passion for the region.

Appellations
The wines below come from appellations in the heart of the Loire valley which produce the best Cabernet Franc. On the north bank of the Loire River is Bourgueil with similar wines and soils as Chinon across the river which is mostly limestone and some gravel beds. Wines from Bourgueil are thought to have slightly more aging potential than those from Chinon. Yannick Amirault is regarded by many as a master in Bourgueil. Neighboring Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil which is on more sandy soil makes wines that is slightly less full bodied than those from Bourgueil. Saumur Champigny is on the south bank of the Loire next to Chinon, its soil is more chalky. Saumur Champigny regularly puts out good Cab Franc, but I found some examples to be less elegant than from elsewhere in Loire. Langlois Chateau and Clos Rougeard are names to look for in Saumur Champigny.

Vintages
2003 was a very warm year in Loire as it was through most of Europe, this allowed proper ripening of the grapes and the wines are less likely to be overly green. 2003 looked like it would be hard to top but 2005 was also warm and has been declared a vintage of a lifetime for Loire as it was in Bordeaux. Keep an eye out for 2005s which should be just making it to shelves.

Reviews
Some may disagree with the ratings I’ve assigned for these wines. I think the high marks are warranted because I found these wines so engaging. For those who might not find this style of wines as captivating I would remove a point or two. If you hate medium or light bodied wines, detest any greenness, and prefer power to elegance than give these wines a pass – more for me!

2003 ‘La Coudraye’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
This wine from Bourgueil shows off very characteristic aromas and flavours of Cabernet Franc. I usually dislike green/herbaceous or stemy notes, but here it is not overpowering or aggressive and it adds character and charm. It reminds me of dried leaves (think forest floor in autumn) with earthy clay and red fruits, mainly raspberry and figs. There is a faint metallic tinge, but it well integrated. I especially like the nose which is quite expressive and full with all the elements well defined. Not a heavy or dense wine, but it has a certain charm that has me grinning as I bury my nose in the glass. $17.95 91

2003 ‘Les Quartiers’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
Once again I am charmed with the character and poise of Yannick Amirault’s Cabernet Franc. The nose has a remarkable perfume of raspberry and sweet cigarette smoke (at least to me it does) that reminds me very strongly of the way a former girlfriend smelled when she had been smoking. There is a faint greenness. This is lighter in body than La Coudraye, making it a little too light for me, but it pairs well with a wide range of foods. Although Les Quartiers is generally considered better than La Coudraye I was not as taken by it. $23.95 89

2004 ‘La Grand Clos’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
The signature green notes of Cabernet Franc mingle with stone, bright cherry, and apple cider notes. There are some rough floral notes (violet), some spice, but to me it is a touch bretty (kind of like a horse stable). Good length and concentration but slightly off balance. $20.90 89

2005 Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil – Domaine de la Chesnaie
This has the most pronounced and enthralling nose I’ve smelt in a while, its floral character reminds me of a Pinot Noir. An amazing perfume of violet, cherry, raspberry, and smoky leaves, but what made this so special to me was the addition of a sweet musky spice that seemed to be a combination of cigar box, cinnamon, and fruit. I had my nose in the glass for a long time just savouring the fragrance. Soft unaggressive tannins. Entry to finish the wine is consistent. Nicely poised. And the price warrants buying a few more bottles I think! $13.80 92

2004 ‘Lieu-dit les Vignoles’ Saumur Champigny – Cave de Saumur (Alliance Loire)
Aromas of red plum and raspberry with noticeable dried leaves, black olive, and intriguing sandalwood incense. There is a mellow metallic edge that comes out with some time in the glass. It makes for interesting sniffing but in the mouth it is lean and the tannins are a bit rough and puckering on the finish, this can be remedied by drinking it with a meal. It is certainly not a sipping wine for most palates. There are some vegetal tinges but it is offset by the smoke and fruit and I don’t find it overpowering. Short finish with a hawthorn aftertaste that reminds me of haw flakes. $15.85 86

2004 Saumur Champigny – Domaine du Ruault
At first this is close to being weedy with light bell pepper and smoky tobacco leaf. With some time I also get bitter cocoa nibs and the green dissipates and gives way to aromas that remind me of a campfire (from the barrel toast). Red fruit, unripe fig, thyme, with minimal soft tannins. $13.85 87

2004 ‘Le Bretonnière’ Saumur Champigny – Langlois Chateau
The colour is a darker than the two previous wines from Saumur Champigny. Silky tannins and a somewhat weighty almost oily mouthfeel which pleasantly surprised me. Sweet red fruit (raspberry, strawberry), slight metallic edge to the nose, fall leaves, and campfire. With more inspection: tobacco, hints of blackberry, and a light spice note that is vaguely similar to garam masala. It’s very drinkable with a lingering light and savoury finish that is almost elegant. $17.75 90

2003 ‘La Baronnie Madeleine’ Chinon – Couly-Dutheil
Couly-Dutheil’s is considered on of the top wineries in Chinon. The herbaceousness one might associate with Cab Franc is almost non-existent in this ripe wine which partly reflects the conditions of the warm 2003 vintage. Strong raspberry, strawberry, and even some plum with spicy oak lending cedar and white pepper notes. There are undertones of leather too. Nice attack and finish. The mid-palate is light, but not in a bad way, rather the wine glides through the middle to a firm finish full of smoky, floral spice and a suggestion of dark chocolate adding some depth. Out of all the Loire reds reviewed here it is the most beefy and will benefit from a short cellaring. Great value in my opinion! $18.80 92

Le Clos Jordanne: 2005s

2007-12-29T23:12:00.002-05:00

Overall I was slightly less impressed with the 2005 vintage than I was the 2004, but found that the same high quality remained. I’m sure that with some cellaring these will come together nicely. I thought that there was a bit of sourness in the nose coming from elevated volatile acidity, but far from the point of being a flaw. Maybe this sourness was what David Lawrason was referring to in his Toronto Life blog, “…they’re youthfully nervy, bordering on sour and tannic”. I will refer to Lawrason’s scores throughout as DL score: abbreviated tasting notes. I read his notes after I had assigned my scores so it’s interesting to see where we agree or differ.

Village Reserve Chardonnay
Creamy oak, tropical fruit (pineapple), biscuit, butterscotch, hazelnut, good green apple acidity and mineral linger on the finish. With some air I smell faint lanolin. Pretty good value by Niagara standards. DL 90: very good value, pineapple, lemon, butterscotch, lemony acidity and hazelnut cream on the finish. Our notes are surprisingly close other than the green apple acidity I got that he noted as lemon. $25 89

Village Reserve Pinot Noir
A bit mushroomy at first, candied cherry, mild oak spice, watery mid-palate and finish. I noticed some red apple skin, almost like the apple cider note which I get frequently in Bourgogne. The finish is slightly short. For me the 2004 was better (I scored it 89). DL 88: black cherry-currant nose, cedar, chocolate, touch of mint, grippy, dry and sourish, very good length. Our notes couldn’t be more different (especially the length), but we scored the wine similarly. $25 87

La Petite Pinot Noir
I noticed a funky, almost cheesy, aroma that blew off with some vigorous swirling. I found it slightly floral with sweet perfumy strawberry, rhubarb, and sour cherry. As expected it was the most delicate (some might say feminine) of the lot. There are light vanilla tones which give way to a floral spiciness, somewhat like Grains of Paradise. Nice finish with lingering fruit. The 2004 was better. I think the growing conditions in 2005 did not bring out the best aspects of this vineyard. DL 88: “Nose is lifted, very spicy and savoury with ripe sour cherry (not big black cherry) and a touch of earthy beetroot character”. $35 89

Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir
Immediately I sense more depth and black fruit than the previous wines. There is a subdued gamey note, plum and black cherry, and beetroot, with a mineral core that underpins the fruit. To me it’s not particularly complex at this point but still good. Gordon Stimmell writes in the Toronto Star “This Niagara winery's pinots rival Burgundy's best. The nose shows classic beetroot, vanilla wafer and big black cherry. The vanilla-laced flavours unfold with black cherry and earthy wood smoke. Overall, rich, suffusive and delicious. 92” DL 90: cherry-raisin, plum, gentle spice, nougat, leather, chocolate, fairly tannic and blunt. Looks like my score falls right in between. $35 91

Grand Clos Pinot Noir
For me it has a silky texture and depth that clearly separates it from the other wines. I would say it’s the best of the lot. It is rounder and fuller in the mouth and as I’ve noticed before great length. Not as dark as the Claystone; the fruit is a balance of red and black. Sweet cherry, red apple/cider, savoury notes, perhaps a bit sour at the moment. The sweet perfume lingers on and saturates my senses when I exhale through my nose. Some minerality to round things up too. I noticed some barnyard while sniffing the dregs of the glass. It has the power of the Claystone with some of the sweet perfume of La Petite. DL 92: black cherry, currant, cedar, meat, mint, some chocolate, dense and elegant, outstanding length. Again our ratings are within 1 point of each other. $60 93

There was has been some debate between tasters as to whether the 2005 Claystone or the Grand Clos is better, but personally I think the Grand Clos had more depth, better texture, and the finish lasted much longer. The Grand Clos is better now and it will be even better with some time in the cellar. However, considering that the Claystone is almost half the price of the Grand Clos the quality to price ratio makes the Claystone the better buy of two.

I can’t wait to taste the 2006s from the bottle!

Le Clos Jordanne Intro: 2004s

2007-12-16T20:37:00.000-05:00

Up until I tried the wines from Clos Jordanne I was consistently unimpressed with the quality of the Pinot Noir coming from Niagara. I always thought that there was a lot of unrealized potential and couldn’t understand why so many watery, boring wines were being produced; after all, the climate and soil seem well suited to Pinot and the latitude is close that of Burgundy. I was hoping at some point someone would get serious and raise the bar, but I wasn’t expecting it anytime soon.

For me, as for most people who tried the first released vintage (2004), tasting the wines of Clos Jordanne for the first time marked a new era for Niagara wine. I was excited that someone was finally making Pinot Noir here that I actually liked, and better yet the wines had distinct terroir. From what I’ve read I think most wine critics would agree that Le Clos Jordanne has set the benchmark for the varietal in Niagara.

My favourite press quote from the first release:
“The room was buzzing—Bachelder’s rich baritone couldn’t corral us. That wine was unlike any the province had ever produced. I knew at that moment that a page in Ontario’s wine history had just turned.” The Grape’s Progress, Toronto Life, David Lawrason.
You can find the rest of the article here.

For more rave reviews.

The wine maker, Thomas Bachelder, is an enthusiastic proponent of terroir so I think it’s appropriate to start with my general impressions of the distinguishing characteristics I have noticed between the different vineyards.

The Pinot Noir Vineyards

Talon Ridge: The grapes from this vineyard comprise a majority of the Village Reserve. Not the most refined of the vineyards, but by no means poor in any way. I frequently get cherry cola, a faint floral perfume, and an underlying earthy minerality.

The Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs

La Petite Vineyard: This vineyard is a favourite of mine, although those who like bigger darker pinot may overlook it. It is the most elegant and floral with the fruit leaning toward the red spectrum.

Claystone Terrace: This vineyard is often a favourite because of its burly frame and extract leaning toward black fruits and a strong mineral backbone. Big, but with some poise.

Le Clos Jordanne: Mineral, spice and earth with well defined fruit. Almost as big and dark as the Claystone, but with more perfume. Mix of the elegance of La Petite with the brawn of Claystone.

The flagship Grand Clos

Le Grand Clos: This is a block of Le Clos Jordanne that was kept separate for its special qualities. The thing that struck me immediately in every vintage I tried was the amazing length of the finish and the velvety texture. Similar in character to Le Clos Jordanne, but with added complexity. The wine maker and numerous wine critics have also remarked on the exceptional palate persistence of this cuvee.

Not too surprisingly my impressions of the various vineyards match up very well with what other wine writers and the winemaker have noted, which goes to show that these differences are quite obvious and don’t require a wine expert to tell the difference. All the wines are vinified the same way and a mix of Pinot clones is used to remove the effects of clonal variation, so it is safe to say the unique characteristics are derived in the vineyard. This is probably one of the best examples of the affect terroir can have in Niagara.

The 2004s
Both of the Village Reserve wines tipped the scales at around 14% alcohol.

Village Reserve Chardonnay
Oak is evident (vanilla, maple syrup) but not overpowering because there is plenty of acid to balance things out. Nutty notes of pecan/cashew, citrus (grapefruit), with good weight. Not bad value when compared to other wines in the Niagara Chardonnay class. Tony Aspler gives this 4/5 stars: caramel, vanilla, orange peel, peach. $25 89

Village Reserve Pinot Noir
Not overly complex or weighty, but there is a nice minerality, structure, and concentration I have never seen in a Niagara Pinot in this price range. Toasty cracker, sour cherry, and best of all a bit of that lovely Pinot perfume I crave (floral, violets). The oak is not overdone here, only 30% new I’m told. Tony Aspler gives this 4.5/5 stars: earthy, beetroot, violet, raspberry. $25 89

In Brief -
Press reviews for the other single vineyard ($35) and Grand Clos ($60) Pinots were very positive. La Petite was scored 91 by Wine Access: lightest and most elegant of the single vineyard Pinots, floral perfume, cherry-cranberry, almost silky. I couldn’t agree more. The Claystone Terrace was rated 4.5-5/5 by Aspler: minerally, raspberry, mint, firmly structured. The Clos Jordanne rated a 90 by Wine Access: ripe cherry, moving into medium body range. Le Grand Clos was rated 93 by Wine Access: better fruit definition, “the best length I can remember from Pinot Noir in Canada or many other places”, beetroot. Gordon Stimmel of the Toronto Star also rated Le Grand Clos a 93 and proclaimed that it was the best Canadian Pinot Noir he had ever tasted. Of all the reviews I agree with David Lawrason’s (Wine Access) notes the most, our palates seem to be quite similar.

Next Post: Le Clos Jordanne 2005s

Below is a picture I took of the open-top oak fermentors at Le Clos Jordanne .

2007 Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

2007-12-02T20:23:00.000-05:00

As usual the Vines Fine Wine Tasting Lounge and the Vintages booth were the really the only place to find the most coveted wines, the other exhibitors were only pouring entry level plonk. I did try some nice wines at the Germany booth, but the real draw for me was the high end stuff I would almost never buy a whole bottle of.

2003 La Chapelle Hermitage – Paul Jaboulet
Ridiculously tight at the moment, but with some vigorous swirling the nose opened up revealing ripe black, slightly raisiny fruit. I got notes of ripe plum, faint caramel, savoury black olive (typical of most big Syrah for me), cedar, burnt underbrush, maybe a bit ferric/bloody. Spicy finish, like Grains of Paradise (floral and peppery). It was very closed and tannic on the palate, but shows great potential to age. I’d give it 5 years at least. Wine Spectator 96: blackberry, boysenberry, black currant, mocha, mineral and tar. International Wine Cellar 91-95: blackberry, blueberry, licorice and camphor, along with a suggestion of exotic spices. Wine Access 95: creme de cassis, crushed flowers, truffles, and licorice. $159 94+

2003 Château d’Yquem
Wow! This was the wine of the show for me. It had been open for a day but showed no sign of fading, if anything it probably helped open it up. The nose explodes with seductively smoky beeswax, guava paste, coconut, apricot – it smells rich and fat if that’s possible. So unctuous, it coats your mouth and then infuses it with its essence. The finish goes on and on. Like a caramel candy in the aftertaste, but much better. Little citrus rind and a subtle greenness in there too Wine Spectator 98: lemon rind, vanilla cream and dried pineapple. Wine Access 94-96. $250 for 375 mL 97

2002 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz – Barossa Valley Estate
This has some fruity and medicinal elements that I enjoy: iodine, blackberry and plum. Loads of black pepper, just as the name suggests, with some black olive, floral (violets), cedar, and blueberry. Great acid, demands some hearty food to go with it. Barrel toast is evident and the pepper is a bit aggressive. This is more floral than La Chapelle, but overall it doesn’t have the same structure and balance. I think the 97 Wine Spectator rating is overly generous, especially when comparing this to La Chapelle. 90 from Wine Enthusiast. $ 99.95 92+

2003 Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland - Balthasar Ress
From a vineyard near Rüdesheimer mountain in the Rheingau this late harvest wine has great balancing acidity and distinct mineral/slate elements. Mild almond, custard, green apple, and white peach with a refreshing finish. This won gold at a competition I can’t remember (Ottawa?). $26.95 91

2003 Keyneton Estate The Euphonium – Henschke
This was initially good at first sip but for some reason became less impressive the more we drank. Lots of spicy toasty oak, cassis, black and red fruit, and thyme. The balance is nice but the finish is average. International Wine Cellar 91: fruitcake, molasses, anise and dark chocolate, smoky, musky tobacco and cured meat notes, sweet blackberry and blackcurrant flavours. I can’t say I noted most of those elements in my tasting other than the blackcurrant, sounds like he had a richer wine. $51.95 90

2004 Clos Apalta – Casa Lapostolle
This was a bit of a disappointment for me because I have wanted to try this wine for a while and expected a little more for the price and reputation. Tobacco, refined spices (cloves, cinnamon, pepper), sweet fruit (black cherry and strawberry), vanilla, and a hint of sage. Not easy to put my finger on, but it did remind me of Carmenere I’ve had before (especially that sweet fruit and tobacco aspect). 86% Carmenere with the rest being Merlot. 91 Wine Acess: pain grille, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. $96 90

1999 Brute Rosé Champagne – Pol Roger
I’m far from being an expert when it comes to champagne but I was not fond of this at all. Lemon zest, cranberry and an unpleasant sharp sulfite smell which I’m told is the style. I don’t think the small tasting portion helped either because I find I need a larger portion to evaluate sparkling wines as the carbon dioxide tends to mute the nose. Either way I thought it was poor value. 90 Wine Spectator: candied berry and lemon meringue. $88.95 85

Niagara Wine Tour 2007 Part 3

2007-11-25T21:07:00.000-05:00

I visited Daniel Lenko Estate the same day as Hidden Bench and Tawse on the second day of the tour. All three of these wineries are on the Bench west of St. Catharines away from the bustle of Niagara on the Lake. The more I tour around Niagara the more it seems that the wineries located on or near the Bench are producing the most exciting wines in Ontario.

Hidden Bench
This winery is not on the Ontario Wine Route map and the parking lot was almost empty, which is not a reflection on the wines by any means. The green barn like exterior of the tasting room is set amongst the vines of the Locust Lane Vineyard and has a secluded feel. The winery just opened its doors in May 2007, but as Stimmell noted in the Toronto Star the portfolio is aimed high in terms of quality and price. There is a tasting fee of $10 for a flight of three.

2005 Estate Chardonnay
This is a blend of grapes from Rosomel and Locust Lane Vineyards. Very clean nose with only minimal oak. Notes of coconut, pear, brown sugar, and grapefruit. Very ripe with decent concentration and a higher than normal alcohol of 14% which lends some weight to the palate. Winery notes say ‘quince’, I can agree with that. Nice balance of acid/fruit and oak. $30 90

2005 Vielles Vignes Chardonnay
This is 100% Rosomel fruit. I’m told the vines are 32 years old, hence the vielles vignes. More oak influence than the Estate Chard with apple, butter, caramel, and some floral notes (white flowers), and light hazelnut. Maybe needs some time to integrate the oak. 91 in the Toronto Star: smoky apple (it looks like we agree). $40 91

2005 Estate Pinot Noir
This Pinot comes across in a high strung, almost aggressive, manner. It lacks some elegance and concentration, which unfortunately is not uncommon of most Ontario Pinot. A lot of sweet cherry and strawberry jam, strong high notes of a spicy floral nature, and mint. Pale ruby colour looks a bit watery. Some earthy beetroot nuances. Not bad (I guess they did the best with the grapes they had), but I thought it was a little out of whack. 91 in the Toronto Star, Stimmell notes: wild strawberry, smoky beetroot, black cherry. I agree with the characterization but not the score. $35 88

2005 Terroir Caché
Too much toast for me here which accentuates the green elements and kills the nose. I’m told it is a medium+ toast. Peeking out from under the burnt wood is some nice ripe red fruit on the palate. The style reminds me of Creekside’s reds with its big smoky concentrated style. On the plus side it has a great round mouthfeel and lots of weight. The finish is sweetish with cedar notes. Not at all my favourite style, but I can’t fault it for that. Stimmell gives it 91 and notes: smoky cigar box, blackberry and cherry, long and rich. $35 89

Tawse
This biodynamic winery boasts a 6 level gravity fed design and the tasting room is open to most of the levels which means you get the sent of fermentation to accompany your experience (and the occasional fruit fly). Nicely designed, this winery is obviously marketing to a similar crowd as Hidden Bench, it also has $10/3 tasting flights.

2004 Beamsville Bench Chardonnay
Caramel, roasted nuts, and sweet biscuity bouquet with pineapple coming across in the aftertaste. Round and simple with good acid to hold up to the oak. Nice silky mouthfeel. It didn’t hold up too well after some time in the glass. $42 89

2005 Beamsville Bench Chardonnay
This ripe Chard has a whopping 14.3% alcohol which isn’t that noticeable, but does add some heft. Butterscotch, green apple, pie spice, and unfortunately a hint of green sappiness that detracts from the overall package. More oak than I’d like to see, though there is balancing acid and fruit. It is rounder than the 2004 but overall I found it kind of boring and because of the oak. I’m not sure what food I’d pair with this. $47 88

2004 Robyn’s Block Chardonnay
The oak is not dominant and the buttery aspects are balanced with clean fruit and mineral notes. I get stones, spring water/mineral water, pineapple, very faint floral elements, and interesting savoury notes. The finish is really long, always a trait of good Chardonnay. Solid wine with much more food pairing potential than the 2005 Beamsville Bench Chard. $48 92

That wraps up the Niagara tasting notes for another year or so. Overall I noticed less heavy barrel toasting than previous years, which was definitely a good thing, however most of the reds were still lack lustre for me, and those that were outstanding were too pricey. The standout wines were all Chardonnays, which to me indicates that it has a bright future here. The Chardonnay I tasted was not only good for Niagara, but for anywhere else in the world in my opinion.

This tour of Niagara got me thinking about the industry and its direction, so I will close with some of my musings. As I tasted I thought to myself that in order to up the quality and profile of wines from Niagara wine makers need to focus on what does well in the region. Niagara needs to be known for doing something well and making Cabernet Sauvignon that hasn’t ripened properly will not cut it. The same goes for varietials from Rhône or Southwest France as far as I’m concerned. I don’t care if Syrah is popular at the moment, or that Jancis Robinson thinks Lenko’s Syrah is the best Canadian wine she’s tasted. If I want great Syrah I’m looking to Southern France and Australia, as will other consumers. Producers need to focus on doing something well, for instance what comes to mind when you think of the Willamette Valley in Oregon? Pinot Noir of course. Mendoza, Argentina? Malbec. Marlborough, New Zealand? Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Napa Valley? Cabernet Sauvinon.

So what types of grapes do I think have a future in Niagara? Well, in addition to Chardonnay I will be watching out for solid examples of Cabernet Franc, Baco Noir, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Thanks to Le Clos Jordanne I will also be keeping a close eye on the development of Pinot Noir in Ontario as well, more on that later.

One last point on over pricing. With the exception of tasting tours around Niagara I don’t buy much wine from Niagara. The reason for my abstinence has more to do with pricing than lack of pride in the wines of my home province. The quality to price ratio is often not favourable and if I have to choose between spending big bucks on a lovely Barolo or a decent but over oaked smoky attempt at a Bordeaux styled wine, well I’m going to stick with the Barolo. Sure there are plenty of people willing to waste large sums of money buying these wines from the winery, but wines should not be priced by what a few select buyers are willing to pay. I think a lot of producers have made the mistake of marketing to the well-healed customer with no palate or idea what a ‘mare-lot’ is supposed to taste like. The price should be dependant on the quality. There are some wineries that are getting the point thankfully, and I hope they will not always be the minority.

Daniel Lenko Estate Winery – Niagara Wine Tour 2007 Part 2

2007-11-10T16:02:00.000-05:00

This visit was interesting enough that I thought I’d separate it out from the rest of the Niagara wine tour notes. After hearing numerous good things in the media and from family about this winery I decided to see what the fuss was all about.

This couldn’t be more the antithesis of the slick commercial operations in Niagara. Unless you’re looking for the sign you will likely drive by without noticing the place, as I have done numerous times. This winery may have been somewhat under the radar, but it has developed a loyal following and I’m sure Jancis Robinson’s review of the 2002 Syrah hasn’t hurt much (Robinson said it was the best Canadian red she has tasted). You won’t find it on the Ontario Wine Route map either since Daniel Lenko prefers to skip the steep fees and market his wines by developing a reputation and word of mouth. You can find directions to the winery on the winery website http://www.daniellenko.com/.

Lenko greeted me at the door and welcomed me in to the kitchen/tasting room despite the fact I was there before the official opening time. I enjoyed talking wine with him and his strong opinions and straight talking nature made for many laughs and insights. When asked what he thought of Gamay he responded “Not fit for human consumption… have you ever had a good Gamay from Ontario?” Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon also had their turn on the block, although he does make both he won’t be planting more anytime soon.

Lenko, who is also the viticulturalist, keeps yields to a paltry 2 tons/acre. He also owns some of the oldest vines in Niagara. Quality definitely comes before quantity here, as well as a particular marketing sense as I was to learn. My visit was refreshing and I must give kudos to Daniel for being a good host.

Some wines are only available by the case and a lot of the wines are already sold out. There is no tasting fee (as it should be).

2005 Unoaked Chardonnay
Quite fruity and the 6 moths the wine spent on the lees comes through with extra body. I’m told this wine did not undergo malo-lactic fermentation and it has a good balance of acid and fruity character. Mineral, grapefruit and slightly nutty. $19.95 88

2006 Reserve Riesling
Nice slate, peachy, lime, nice balance of mineral and acid with ripe fruit. Lots of fruit, but there is a slightly candied aspect to the fruit which makes this a little less polished (like a lollipop flavour you might find in some cheap Riesling, which I see as a slight flaw in many Rieslings from Niagara or Germany). $19.95 89

2006 White Cabernet
This was a surprise, I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cabernet Franc that had been pressed prior to fermentation, but it was nice sipping. Lots of strawberry and watermelon (don’t think I’ve tasted watermelon in a wine before). Good acid, fruity, a refreshing summer sipper. This isn’t a by-product either, it was made from the same low yield vines and pressed with this end result in mind (which Lenko figured would sell well, and not surprisingly it is). $19.95 89

2006 Viogner
I found this very nutty with some tropical fruit, but mostly pear and bitter lychee nut and spice. The mouthfeel is oily and weighty and coats the palate. I like the texture of this wine but to me the interesting flavours are offset by the bitter finish. $34.95 87

2004 Old Vines Chardonnay (American Oak)
The oak seems a bit green and aggressive, or sappy as Daniel put it. Although American oak is not his first choice Lenko wanted to make the same old vines Chard at a more accessible price than the French oak version. It does have good mouthfeel with caramel toast notes. Shame about the oak. $22.95 86

2004 Old Vines Chardonnay (French Oak)
This is more balanced than the American oak version. It is buttery and has nice vanilla aromas, but is still kind of bland to me. In other words, it’s nice but it would be hard to differentiate it from many other French oaked Chards from Niagara. $29.95 89

2002 Old Vines Chardonnay (French Oak)
For comparison Lenko poured me the 2002 to see how the flavours had integrated. And indeed this wine was more balanced and complex with buttery caramel, butterscotch, smoke, hazelnut, and golden delicious apple. I like the faint smokiness. Maybe the 2004 will come along with some time. $29.95 90

2004 Old Vines Merlot
A bit stemy and green with the barrel toast coming through stronger than I’d like. Lots of vanilla, fall leaves, fine tannins, plum and red cherry. If the barrel toast was a little less I think it would be better, but if you’re not as sensitive to burnt wood as I am you’d probably rate this wine higher. $29.95 89

2004 Cabernet Franc
There is some smoky oak, but not as much as the Merlot, slightly perfumy, sweet strawberry, tobacco leaf, and grippy tannins. Great concentration and it lacks the greenness that can plague Ontario Cab Franc. May improve with some clear time. $24.95 89+

2004 Signature Chardonnay
This was my favourite wine of the tasting. Lenko mentioned peat smoke, but I noticed this more with the Old Vines Chard. Well balanced new oak lending some vanilla with mineral, citrus, and apple notes. The mouthfeel is round and the finish is very long with persistent suave pear and apple flavours. The fruit is juicy and the length and quality of the finish make for a powerful and distinctive wine. Strangely enough the wording on the website is similar to mine “…aged in French oak for 18 months, its depth, power, viscosity and complexity are unmatched” despite Lenko having said nothing of the sort to me – after tying the wine I can say he isn’t lying. $39.95 92

Lenko definitely has a solid line up, all his wines show the ripeness or the fruit he uses (thanks to low yields all the grapes reach maturity) and almost all have a silky texture. The only disappointments were the Viogner and American oaked Old Vines Chardonnay, but overall I was impressed and without a doubt I will be keeping an eye on the Chardonnay he produces.

Niagara Wine Tour 2007 – Part 1

2007-11-03T17:35:00.000-04:00

This exploration of Niagara’s wines took place over two days; the first day delved a little more into the Niagara on the Lake region since previous tasting tours have focused more on the wineries of Niagara’s Bench west of St. Catharines (mainly Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench appellations). By Niagara on the Lake I am referring to the Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara River, and Four Mile Creek appellations. Whether these specific appellation designations actually mean anything yet is up for debate. That said, I have noticed some difference in the wines mostly in relation to the vineyard’s proximity to the Escarpment or Lake.

Overall there were not many standout wines on the first day and the tasting bars were crowded with bicycle and bus tours. If you want to avoid the crowds it’s probably better to stick to the Bench on busy weekends. Reif was particularly crowded and there was a line up at the bar, which was pouring very few of their good wines, so we didn’t bother sticking around.

This is the 1st of 3 parts.

Strewn
A fairly large complex that has a restaurant and cooking school in addition to the tasting bar and shop. I’m not a fan of the layout, but at least the wine was good. $0.50 for regular level, $3 for ‘Terroir’ samples.

2005 Terroir Cabernet Franc
Nice green slightly stemy/leafy notes and tobacco, good varietal nose. Very tart and slightly watery; the lack of extract doesn’t balance the acid out. Macintosh apple, pomegranate and strawberry add character to the nose. This might be better with some food. $23 87

2001 Terroir Cabernet Franc
This is riper and more mouth filling than the 2005 with black fruits, richer tobacco leaf, light chocolate and smoke with only faint green notes. It also has less acid and is rounder than the 2005. Solid and unusually rich, but overpriced in my opinion (I’d rather spend the $ on a nice Barolo). $65 90

Lailey Vineyard
This is very close to the touristy main strip of Niagara on the Lake and a minute away from some great views of the Niagara River. The small tasting bar didn’t easily accommodate the bicycle tour hoards. $1-2 for samples.

2006 Dry Riesling
Very floral lily like aromas, green apple, and candy peach/nectarine. There is a sweet edge to the nose but this isn’t the case once you’ve taken a sip, very tart with a sharp greenness that detracts from the overall impression. $19.95 87

2005 Pinot Noir
Vanilla and a little caramel with cherry, strawberry and slightly smoky oak. There is a bit of greenery and earth too. Lacks character on the palate (watery) and the finish is astringent. May improve a bit with a year or two in the bottle. $24.95 86+

Marynissen Estates
The smell in the tasting room reminds me of a cottage and it is way too small to accommodate the tour bus mob. Not my favourite tasting room. The first sample of the Cabernet/Merlot stunk of sulphur (which the staff were oblivious to)! $0.50/sample.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Ridiculously herbaceous and green. Loaded with dill pickle, red fruit, leather, cured meat, and a pine cleaner like note. Possibly a flawed bottle, but I doubt a good bottle would be any less green. $29 78-82

2002 Cabernet/Merlot
This is herbaceous as well but at least has some ripe fruit to compensate. Plum, red fuit, nutty wood and a little meaty with sweet tannins on the finish. $14.95 87

Flat Rock Cellars
Finally we leave the crowds of Niagara on the Lake for the less crowded Bench wineries. The picturesque tasting room is perched on a hill with great views of the vineyard and Lake Ontario. Around $1/tasting.

2006 Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling
Peach, coconut, green apple with crisp mineral nose. The acidity is piercing all the way through to the finish which has a citrus (lime/grapefruit) and green mango character. The acidity is too much to enjoy sipping it by itself; I’d prefer this wine with some food. After the tasting I read Stimmell’s review in the Star, he gives it 91 and noted floral elements (which are not pronounced to me). $19.95 89

2006 Gewürztraminer
Typical lychee and faint roses with banana peel make for a pleasant nose, but the finish is very bitter (lychee nut) and the richness of good examples of this varietal is missing. Not that it was hideous, but I gulped the rest of the glass to avoid tasting it much more. $18.95 86

Malivoire
As you drive up the hill you are greeted by a steel canopied building that has a utilitarian feel about it. The winery uses a gravity fed design and the spacious tasting room has a nice view of the vats. $5 for a flight of 4-5.

2005 Chardonnay
Not oaky, nice mineral, stone fruits, apple, good mouthfeel, toast and lime marmalade. The finish is clean but a bit bitter. $22 89

2004 Moira Vineyard Chardonnay
Malolactic fermentation and more oak than the 2005 Chardonnay, but it is not overdone. Butterscotch, toast, lemon rind, limestone with a pleasantly round mouthfeel. I like the balance of oak to the acid and fruit. $36 90

2006 Gewürztraminer
Riper than Flat Rock’s version in the same year. Ripe lychee, mango and an interesting fruity black tea like nuance. There is some structure and body in the mouth finishing with a little nutty spice. This would be great with some Pad Thai. $25.80 90

2005 Gamay
This Gamay has some oak time and it shows with cloves and vanilla with some strawberry fruitiness. Interesting, but not my preference (then again very few Gamays are), as my score reflects. $16 86

2004 Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir
Good earthy beetroot and cherry Pinot character, and it even has some light Pinot perfume (violets). As good as it is on the nose the palate fell a little short, bitter and a touch acidic. David Lawrason (Wine Access) gave it 4½ stars out of 5 noting cherry-raspberry, floral notes, dried herbs, chocolate and spice. $42 88

Puddicombe Estate
The winery is only a portion of the farm and it has a rustic Ontario farm feel (think candied apples, pumpkins, and hay rides). Not a sleek modern place, but it is free of pretension and the prices that afflict more than a few wineries in Niagara.

2004 Riesling Reserve
Very nice petrol (more pronounced than any other Riesling tasted during the tour), mineral, and lemon drop. A bit candied, but it is the best value of any wine tasted from any of the wineries. $13.20 88

2004 Baco Noir Reserve
Very pungent nose of vegetation, green stems, sour preserved plum, and fruity vinegar. This wine is very ‘in you face’ as our host noted, and strangely I kind of like it for that. It certainly lacks refinement, but what a whack to the senses. Pow! It’s almost like someone toasted some fall leaves and filtered the wine thought it. It is horrendously disjointed in the mouth with sour and sweet notes and a weird savoury taste. Verging on offensive, but I love the smell (if only for its novelty). $11.20 76

Part 2 coming soon! Part 2 will cover Daniel Lenko Estates Winery.

Taste of Tuscany

2007-09-18T20:36:00.001-04:00

After the Napa tasting it was decided that we should venture into the Old World, and this proved to be a good choice. I prefer wines that have a sense of place and character, and wines from regions with a long history of viticulture tend to satisfy this preference. A lot of people gripe about the homogenization of wine thanks to the spread of modern more New World techniques, and to some degree I think this is true. On the positive side though, modern techniques have led to an improvement in the overall quality of wines produced globally. But I digress.

Tuscany is a region on the North-West coast of Italy which is produces some of the most coveted and expensive wines in the country. Our tasting focused on two Tuscan Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) appellations: starting with Chianti (the Chianti Classico sub-appellation) and ending with Brunello di Montalcino; and wines categorized as Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) which are those from a region that are of high quality but do not abide by the strict DOCG rules.

Super-Tuscans were previously labeled as inferior Vino da Tavola (table wine) since they use foreign grape varieties like Cabernet and Merlot. Eventually the IGT denomination was created to distinguish wines like Super-Tuscans that were clearly not mere table wine, but did not follow DOGC rules.

The star of Tuscany is unquestionably Sangiovese. This native grape can produce wines of amazing character, concentration and depth with lots of finesse. Brunello is a variation/clone of Sangiovese also know as Sangiovese Grosso in its home of Montalcino. To me Brunello is the ultimate expression of Sangiovese.

Where possible the professional (i.e. WA, WS) tasting notes were consulted after my notes were taken and my ratings assigned to avoid bias. I’ve listed some of the elements James Suckling or other tasters have noted so you can see how well our impressions line up.

2003 Campaccio - Terrabianca
Only about 40% of the fruit comes from Chianti Classico with the rest coming from Maremma in southern Tuscany which makes this an IGT. First whiff gives a pretty strong green grape skin note, a little barrel toast, very sweet cherry, pomegranate, and raspberry notes. Lighter body with good acid and smoky earth on the palate. This wine needs food. 90 from Wine Advocate: herbal, mentholated, toasty oak and cherry. 88 from Wine Spectator: also noted cherry. $39.95 89

2001 Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva – Antinori
This is the second time I’ve tasted this wine (the first time was at the Wine & Cheese Show), and I wasn’t fond of it then. This time around I’m still not impressed, the 92 rating from Wine Advocate is definitely too high. I wasn’t alone on this either, at least 6 other tasters found it unimpressive. However, it is smooth and has some interesting fruity olive, vanilla and earthy character (WA: vanilla, plums, cherries, tobacco, licorice). $39.95 89

2001 Il Picchio Chianti Classico Riserva – Castello di Querceto
Iodine, straw, barnyard/earthy (not like Pinot though), sweet cherry, pepper. This wine is better than the first two, but I don’t like the weird earthiness – everyone else seems to like it. 90 from Wine Spectator: black fruit, mineral. $35.65 90

Now moving on to the Super-Tuscans!

2004 Oreno - Tenuta Sette Ponti
Wow, this is a change of gears! Lower acid and silkier than any of the Chiantis of course. Very accessible now, but we all agree it has plenty of room for aging. This wine definitely went over well. Smooth black pepper, kirsch, black currant, and sweet black fruit. Very ripe plum almost to the point of prune. The oak and fruit are nicely balanced. Maybe some light citrus rind? 95 from Wine Spectator: blackberry, toasty oak, cappuccino, supervelvety tannins. Other reviews I’ve read note cassis and black fruit/plum as well. This wine is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot. $69 92+

2004 Tignanello – Antinori
This Super-Tuscan has a larger percentage of Sangiovese than the Oreno (85%) and is my preference of the two (it also has some Cabernet Franc in there too). It was one of the first Super-Tuscans (after Sassicaia) to shake up the Tuscan wine scene using grape varieties that were not permitted. Cedar, cranberry, cherry, black fruit, with more depth and acid than the Oreno. It is really well balanced in my opinion. 93 from Wine Advocate: cherries, tar, licorice. 95 from Wine Spectator: raisin, blackberry, lots of spices. 93 from Stephen Tanzer: red and black fruits, black pepper, graphite, prune, tobacco, impeccable balance. $52.95 for 375mL 93+

Everybody (around 10 people) agreed that the Tignanello was drinking better than the Oreno now, but there was some debate about which wine would be better at their peak after some time in the cellar. Is still think the Tignanello will win, but this depends on your palate I guess.

2000 Syrah Toscana – Villa Pillo
This wine was a curve ball that no one was expecting! Syrah from Italy? It was surprisingly good, especially for the price point. Unmistakeable bacon wallop, blackberry, slightly medicinal and savoury (sage, bay leaf), a little earthy. I’m thinking of Rhône more than Tuscany. Good varietal character and value. This Syrah had more bacon than any wine I’ve ever had, which was quite tasty. The 2003 vintage rated 88 points by Wine Spectator: meaty, blackberry. Wine Advocate also notes bacon fat in the 2001 vintage. $17 (USD) 92

2003 Siepi – Castello di Fonterutoli (Mazzei)
A Super-Tuscan styled blend of Merlot and Sangiovese, this wine provided some interesting ripe tomato notes along with almond, grappa, and dark ripe fruit. Quite tannic, this wine isn’t giving much now. A little pine and bay leaf with a caramel edge. The herbs and tomato make me think of fruity pasta sauce. $75 90+

2003 CastelGiocondo Lamaione – Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi
This is Merlot from the same vineyard as the Brunello we are about to taste. A little more delicate than the previous wines, but still quite robust for a Merlot. Spicy sweet plum on the palate with lots of body. Nice musty perfume of cherry and plum. I think Wine Spectator gave this a 91. $37 90

And what I was waiting for, the Brunellos!

2001 Brunello di Montalcino – Castello Banfi
This Brunello comes from a very good vintage and I was looking forward to trying it, I wasn’t disappointed. This wine is dark and sensuous with a feeling that there is something potent lurking under its polished depths. This wine reduced the chatter in the room almost immediately. There is a nutty aspect (blanched almonds), underbrush a little, unburned cigarette tobacco (sweet), and preserved fruit (like a Christmas fruit cake). Very classy with some floral and tea leaf notes that add to the enjoyment. 93 from Wine Spectator: blackberry, currant and toasted oak, big and rich. 91 Stephen Tanzer: plum cherry, cola, sassafras, menthol, insidious concentration. I think the critics over simplified and missed some of the nuances. Around $60-70 93

2000 CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino – Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi
Sweet cherry and plum, not too much wood at all. At first I get smooth almond, cranberry and rich fruity chocolate round things up nicely. It has a bit of a sweet edge to it with some piney herbs adding some balance. After some time in the glass I get a little earth and a citrus iced tea note. Garnet colour. There are definitely some similarities to the Banfi, but it doesn’t have quite as much class and depth. 92 Wine Spectator: blackberry, light vanilla, ultramodern, velvety fruit. $ 29.95 for 375 mL 92

2001 CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino – Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi
I noticed more wood and tannin in this vintage than the 2000 (above). It really wasn’t giving much like Suckling notes, quite closed. It reminds me of a dark deep woody forest with a berry bush in it. Compared to the previous two Brunellos, this one made less of an impression mostly because I didn’t like the amount of wood that was covering the Sangiovese character. Given time this will probably improve so I’m still giving it a 92 with room to improve. 94 from Wine Spectator: currant, berry, light vanilla, big and powerful. $29.95 92+

2001 Brunello di Montalcino – Conti Costanti
A slightly different feel than the other Brunellos, but different in a good way. Almond biscotti, underbrush and straw, earth and roses, dried red fruit (cherry and cranberry). Rich and balanced. It will benefit from 5 years in the cellar. The next day (stored under partial vacuum) it is even better with roses and chocolate and a touch of mineral, almond and cherry all showing through more. 93 Wine Spectator: berry, toasted oak, big juicy tannins, needs time to mellow. 92 Wine Enthusiast: spice bread, almond paste, cinnamon, fudge, orange peel with dry, dusty earth notes are amplified by a lavish, velvety structure with menthol freshness on a long, firm finish. Well, Suckling’s notes are not very detailed, but I agree with his score; I think Wine Enthusiast gives a better description (it also matches mine nicely!). $75 93+ (I think 94 with time).

Out of the Brunellos I think the Banfi and Costanti are tied for top place, but I think the Costanti will edge out the Banfi in a few years because it has a little more structure. I also tasted the two wines side by side the day after (both partially vacuum sealed) and the Costanti was clearly better; the Costanti improved where as the Banfi had lost its polish and faded.

On a side note, I found James Suckling’s tasting notes generic and by themselves they would not be very useful for finding a Brunello that suites my tastes, however his scores were a fairly good indicator I found (just don’t rely on his tasting notes to give you any idea of what the wine will taste like).

1995 Podere Casale 1o Vin Santo del Chianti – Falchini
I’ve never had a Vin Santo before, but what an appropriate way to end a tasting of Tuscany. A blend of 50% Trebbiano, and 50% Malvasia (the traditional grapes). It reminds a few tasters of freshly pressed apple juice/cider, it also has a rasiny grappa like nose with a nutty finish. Noticed it was a cloudy yellow and had some sour grape must odours (possibly a little past its prime?). Wine Access supposedly gave it a 92, although I can’t verify this. $16-20 88

A little background on Vin Santo (which literally means holy wine): it is dried on mats or hung from rafters for a few months before pressing and aged in small oak casks called caratelli. I read that Falchini still uses barrels that were used in the first vintages of Sassicaia.

And finally, the wines of the night stack up something like this:
1. 2004 Tignanello and 2001 Costanti BdM
2. 2004 Oreno and 2001 Banfi BdM

Now, I’m sure that there will be at least one taster from this evening who will disagree with the ranking of the Super-Tuscans, but this ranking was then general consensus of the room. The Banfi and Costanti will trade 1st and 2nd depending on who you talk to and when they drank it.

The biggest surprise of the night and best quality to price ratio by far goes to the 2000 Villa Pillo Syrah.

Great tasting, I can’t wait for the next one!

Napa Valley Cabs

2007-08-20T08:49:00.001-04:00

When it comes to great Cabernet Sauvignon in the New World, Napa Valley is probably the appellation most likely to cross a wine aficionado’s mind first. Ever since the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 when a Cabernet from Stags Leap (a sub-appellation of Napa Valley) bested several top Bordeaux wines, such as Haut-Brion and Mouton-Rothschild, Napa has been recognized as a home to world class Cabernet Sauvignon.

So far my experience with Napa Cabs has been fairly limited mainly due to their pricing, but also because other varietals have interested me more so far. Thanks to the generosity of fellow wine enthusiasts I was given the chance to do a really interesting taste off of some top Napa Cabs. Thanks a lot guys! As promised here are the tasting notes:

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
Caymus has developed a reputation as a top producer in Napa and this wine was a nice example of what they can do. There is a pronounced smokiness from the barrel toasting that turned off some tasters, but this dissipated somewhat with time in the decanter. The nose has smoked meat, light chocolate, and red fruits (strawberry came out with some air time). It was a little lighter on the palate than I was expecting with a smooth light texture and fine tannins. Some intriguing savory notes as well. 93 Wine Spectator and 94 Wine Enthusiast.

$84.95 90 (There was some debate as to whether this wine did not show as well due to bottle variation.)

It should be noted that none of these wines are pure Cabernet Sauvignon since they are blended with other varietals, which is not a bad thing because this helps balance the wines out. By US law producers are allowed to apply a varietal label as long as at least 75% of that varietal is used.

2002 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – Chappellet
This Cab is more fruit forward than the Caymus with raspberry, cassis, vanilla, and light caramel coffee elements. It has very fine tannins as well and is even more creamy and balanced than the Caymus. There is less barrel toast evident in this wine making for a better balance with the fruit. 92 from Wine Spectator.
Around $45 USD 91

2004 One Point Five – Shafer
‘One Point Five’ refers to the not quite second generation partnership between father and son of this family owned and run winery. Bearing the Stags Leap District designation, this Cabernet definitely left an impression long after the tasting. Full on rich fruit and vanilla nose with a silky smooth rounded palate that went on for a good while. Nicely layered with distinct caramel notes, very deep. Drinking quite well despite its youth, but it will benefit from some time in the cellar. 2% Petit Verdot. 90-92 Wine Access.
$81 93

2001 Dominus – Dominus Estates
Produced by Christian Moueix of Château Pétrus and many other notable chateaus in Bordeaux it’s not surprising that this wine reminded everyone more of something from France than Napa. It stuck out brilliantly in this tasting, and if you prefer this style over the soft luscious typical Napa Cab then it would probably be your favourite of the five. Less new oak than the others and it also had more acid, grip, and to me - character. Some warm kirsch, cassis, and lilac notes with a nice balance of wood to fruit. Only fault is the finish is slightly hot (despite it having similar alcohol content, 14.1%, its character didn’t seem to absorb the heat as well). 81% Cab Sauv, 10% Cab Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot. 95 Wine Access and 94 from Wine Enthusiast.
$120, approx. $90 USD 94

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Etude
Now I have to admit that by this point my senses were a little impaired from the overly generous pours. But I got some notes down before succumbing, they read: “good balance of toasty wood to fruit, touch of pepper, cassis, plum, a little anise which several of us noted (maybe licorice to others), ripe fruit. Even better with airing. Soft like the other Cabs (other than the Dominus), but tannins are well structured. Great length, very good complexity.” I had just enough wits about me to realize this was a really nice wine as did everyone else. I would like to try this wine again when I’m a little sharper. 94 from Wine Spectator, the tasting notes mention spicy currant, cedar, anise (we were right apparently), herb and mineral, polished texture, balanced yet firm tannins. 93 Wine Access and 93 Wine Enthusiast.
$119, $90+ USD 95

The Chappallet and Caymus placed 4th and 5th respectively for everyone. Three of us had the exact same order for our top 3, Etude, Dominus, and then Shafer.

After this tasting I can characterize Napa Cabs (with the exception of the Domnius) as typically soft, ripe, relatively low in acid, and quite plush with fine tannins. Some sweeter vanilla, caramel and chocolate notes are common. Although this style might not be to everybody’s liking I think with a little complexity added into this framework you can get some very hedonistic wine. Personally, I can’t wait to taste more Napa Cabs!

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc Redux

2007-06-29T22:12:00.000-04:00

All the wines tasted here are from Marlborough on the South Island of New Zealand which is practically synonymous with the best examples of New World Sauvignon Blanc.

2006 Sauvignon Blanc – Spy Valley
Initially there is a hint of melon which quickly gives way to potent passion fruit/ruby red grapefruit (leaning more towards passion fruit). There is also an interesting faint cumin and thyme herbaceous note which is almost sweaty, but in a good way. Zingy lime/lemon finish up with lingering grapefruit and lightly mineral backnotes. Decent value. Wine Spectator gave it a 90. $17.95 91

2005 Sauvignon Blanc – Babich
Light mineral and green apple and tangy gooseberry on the nose with faint green tomato. The nose is restrained and the wine seems to be missing some zip; perhaps this wine is past its optimum drinking window. Candied lime and herbaceous finish, but little grapefruit/passion fruit that is typical of NZ Sauvignon Blanc. Probably should have been drunk a year ago. Wine Spectator gave it a 90. $16.15 88

2006 Sauvignon Blanc – Kim Crawford
Pungent gooseberry, green peas, with a well defined herbaceousness (oregano) and a nice whiff of peach wake up the nose. There is strong passion fruit and a little bitter grapefruit toward the finish but it is well balanced by the crisp green elements. Good weight (from time on the lees I’m guessing) and a balance of sweetness and tartness. No real faults, it is quite well rounded. 92 from Wine Spectator, I agree. $19.95 92

2006 Sauvignon Blanc – Saint Clair
Strong lime, gooseberry and passion fruit with a clean mineral backbone. The mid-palate has some sweetness but it finishes on a bitter lime/grapefruit note that lingers. A green pea note comes out with some time warming up in the glass. Not as complex as the Crawford or Spy Valley but still a solid example of NZ Sauvignon Blanc. $18.95 90

The differences between these wines are actually not that great; they were consistently well made and shared similar profiles with minor variations. All had some of that passion fruit and grapefruit trait to some extent as well as green gooseberry and herbaceous notes. The differences in intensity of certain elements and their balance along with unique faint tones (e.g. of peach, melon, and cumin) were all that separated them. Although I really enjoy a good NZ Sauvignon Blanc I found this similarity became a little monotonous when I had them several days in a row.

Argentinean Malbec Continued

2007-05-28T17:14:00.000-04:00

Since my initial experiences with Malbec from Argentina were positive (see ‘Argentinean Malbec’ posting) I decided to line up another few to help me further characterize these wines. Unfortunately one of the ones I was looking forward to tasting most was spoiled (2004 Norton Reserva, 91 WS) but the remaining 3 proved more than adequate.

2004 ‘Catena’ Malbec – Bodegas Catena Zapata
Having tried the 2002 I was curious to see how this vintage would compare. This vintage also shows ample oak influence with a very open fruit forward nose of black cherry and cassis (more so than a Cabernet I found). There is some pomegranate in the finish and I also noticed some green tobacco. As is typical for a good Malbec some dark chocolate is in there too. Although there are definite similarities between the vintages, and 2004 is very expressive, it is not as polished as the 2002. My only gripe is the oak is too dominant. Give it a year or 2 to come together. $19.95 90

2005 Reserva Malbec – Finca Flinchman
Loaded with slightly salty preserved plum, strawberry, and coffee with light cherry, woody spice and mineral to round the profile it out. Most interesting is that is covers sweet, sour, salty, and bitter flavours which I don’t think I’ve noticed in a wine to this degree before. A lot of wine for the money! $12.95 91

2004 Mendoza Malbec – Achaval Ferrer
This wine took a little while to open up in the glass, but once it did it was quite impressive. It has the same sour and sweet plum as the Flinchman, but it’s not as salty. Coffee and an interesting savory herb and roasted wood note. Blackberry and strawberry jam add and impression of sweetness to this well balanced wine. This is like a deeper more structured version of the Flinchman which is why I think it will drink better in 2009. Probably the best Malbec I’ve had so far. Wine Spectator gives it a 91 also noting plum, mineral and good acidity. $24.95 92

From my notes a few less common elements seem to be present in most of the Argentinean Malbecs I’ve had: a definite sour fruit note which is unique and pleasant as well as a salty mineral like taste, chocolate/coffee notes seem to be typical also. Maybe the sour salty thing is just me (since I’ve only read a few other people’s tasting notes that mention this so far) but to me it is a fairly noticeable. These wines tend to be well extracted and expressive with lots of black and blue fruit, good acidity, and interesting flavour accents which is why I’m becoming quite fond of them.

A Sample of Vinho Verde

2007-04-14T22:52:00.000-04:00

I mentioned a while back (in ‘A Sample of Portuguese Reds’) that I would post some tasting notes on Portugal’s best known white wines from Vinho Verde.
The name ‘green wine’ might lead you to believe that all Vinho Verde is white wine (as I once did in my early years of wine exploration). In fact, Vinho Verde is an appellation in northern Portugal just west of the Douro region (know for Port) and it does produce some red wines even though its name is practically synonymous with the white wine from that region.
White wines from Vinho Verde are typically very young with bracing acidity, low alcohol, and have a slight effervescence. Aromas of green apple, citrus, and floral notes are characteristic.

2005 Quinta de Azevedo - Sogrape Vinhos
Very light and fresh aromatics: lemon rind, floral, slight herbaciousness (thyme), and light lychee nut. It has the trademark fine fizz and acid with a slightly metallic lemon/apple taste. The zippiness decreases with a little time with fresh apple and mineral lingering in the finish. I read online that it got a sliver medal at a tasting of 2005 V.Verde. Good palate cleanser and value. $11.95 91

2004 Loureiro - Quinta do Ameal
Made from100% Loureiro in the Ponte de Lima sub-appellation this wine is another good example of what Vinho Verde should be. Fresh floral citrus aromatics with green apple and mouthwatering acidity make this wine a great match for seafood or salads. Green tint and a zippy apple finish. $13.20 89

2006 Aliança - Caves Aliança
I’ve includes this wine as an example of what Vinho Verde shouldn’t be. Usually a decent wine this vintage was not very impressive (I’m not completely certain of the vintage as it was nowhere on the bottle, but had 2006 on the selo de garantia). It was boring and flat with apple and pineapple and mild citrus aromas and an unpleasant candied sweetness. Not anywhere near enough of the typical acid, quite insipid. The light fizz makes me think of this as bad pop. Not sure what happened here. $8.25 76

Another reliable Vinho Verde that is almost always available at the LCBO is from Quinta da Aveleda ($8.15), definitely a good introduction. Remember to chill your Vinho Verde well and enjoy!

2007 Toronto Wine and Cheese Show

2007-04-07T16:56:00.000-04:00

What drew me to this show was the chance to taste great wines that I wouldn’t get the chance to taste anywhere else for a reasonable price. Although I tried a few other more moderately priced wines I only took notes on the biggest and the best as this was my primary focus. These wines were not always from the most raved about vintages (often years before or after a blockbuster vintage), but they still gave me a taste of what the top wines in the world can offer. All of these wines were poured at the Classics premium tasting area.
Note: the ‘+’ after my rating denotes that the wine could score higher with some time to age.

2001 Château Latour
Anyone who has taken a serious interest in the wines of Bordeaux, or wine in general, will know this name’s repute instantly. 2001 didn’t get the acclaim of the 2000 vintage, but it is also priced less ridiculously as a result. I think this wine definitely has many more years ahead of it to fully develop, but it is somewhat accessible now. I get whiffs of charred oak, mulberry (some might say cassis), and surprisingly some light sour cherry – but still more on the black fruit side of the spectrum. There is a certain roundness to the character and though the tannins are very fine they still have good grip. There is a light floral element – lilac? Perhaps some mineral and black tea elements in there as well. Very long finish with plum fruit lingering. Rated 95 by both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate; 92 from International Wine Cellar. $330 94+

1995 Château Lynch-Bages
Though it’s rated as a fifth growth this has very little to do with its quality. The colour is a nice burgundy at the rim which shows its age as do the aromas of light earthy smoke and tobacco (slightly green), with a little fruity plum and cassis at first. There are also some faint meaty elements adding to the character. Light spicy plum on the finish. It was a completely different experience than the Latour (as I expected from the age and producer). 91 Wine Advocate – my notes are similar to Parker’s which is usually not the case (he seems to pick out completely different things than I do). Drink now or over the next 5 years. $175 91

2004 Astralis – Clarendon Hills
This wine blew me away; it was like nothing I’ve tried before. At first I got a pleasantly odd concentrated black olive-like fruitiness with some very nice minty/eucalyptus-like notes joining the chorus of soft vanillins (from the oak) and ripe black fruit. This is going to sound strange but there is definitely some soy sauce in the nose (I kept thinking of Asian food until I was able to put my finger on it)! Nicely spiced plum pudding towards the end. Even some roasted meat (very little). A little softer on the finish than I was expecting, which is the only thing I wasn’t too fond of, but it is so silky smooth. I’d give it another 5-10 years, but it’s quite drinkable now. Robert Parker thinks this will go over 30 years, but when it’s this good why wait that long? He gives it 96-98, once again we agree (but his notes read a little different than mine). $390 97

1999 Château D’Yquem
Being the only Château in Sauternes to garner the Premier Cru Supérieur classification this wine comes with a huge reputation. I am a budding Sauternes enthusiast so the opportunity to try the greatest of them all (even in a mediocre year) was quite a treat. Very waxy with honey and beeswax and light floral elements taking the fore and a little botrytis spice in the background, not bad, but not the complexity I was hoping for. The experience in the mouth was amazing though; rich and unctuous but light and smooth as smoke, with some suggestions of smoke in the taste profile as well. Lingering apricot and honey finish. Quite a pleasant encounter. Wine Spectator gives it a 95. $175 (for 375mL) 94

2003 Ermitage l’Ermite – M. Chapoutier
The hue is an amazing royal purple. It has a black olive note similar to the Astralis, but with more meatiness and a slightly iodine/medicinal tinge. It also has more grip with slight cherry, dark fruit, light vanilla – very pure expression, well delineated flavours. I don’t know if it’s the perfection that Parker is referring to but it is really nice. With such structure I’d like to try this wine in another 10 years. 100 from Wine Advocate. $199 95+

Vintages Burgundy Pre-Release Tasting 2007

2007-02-23T18:47:00.000-05:00

Up until now I have had very limited experience with wines from Burgundy, mostly because they are in a price range I seldom venture into. But now, for the reasonable fee (considering the amount of selection) of $95, I was able to select from a wide range of wines from all over Burgundy. The tasting was held at the Fairmount Royal York, which I think was a great venue. My only complaint is that I wish I had more than 2 ½ hours on a weekday night to get to taste all the wines I was interested in. In the end I managed to scribble 22 tasting notes down, a few I didn’t bother writing up. It would have been nice to have a few more Grand Cru Pinots on hand to try as well. Overall though, I think it was a thoroughly satisfying evening.

I’m going to break down my tasting notes by appellation since the best part of enjoying Burgundy is getting to experience the differences in the wines produced by each.

Chablis
Arguably home to the best unoaked Chardonnay in the world.

2004 Chablis Côte de Léchet Réserve - Domaine Bernard Defaix (1er Cru)
This perfumed 1er Cru has faint lychee nut, floral, stone and heavy clay elements with a great silky mouthfeel. Burghound rates it a 91 noting its round yet ‘well delineated’ flavours. $32.95 91

2004 Chablis Bougros Côte Bougerots – William Fèvre (Grand Cru)
This wine has impeccable balance and finesse displaying hazelnut, lime, and light smoke notes. Not overly oaked at all. $64.95 92

2004 Chablis Beauroy – Domaine Pommier (1er Cru)
It seems I disagree with the critics on this one, but it could be more a matter of personal taste in this instance. It is rated 90 in the Toronto Star and 91 by the Wine Advocate. It’s not bad with buttery pear and a pure minerality, but didn’t quite do it for me (especially when compared to what I tried before it). It is clean and pleasant, but doesn’t “explode from the glass” like Pierre Rovani describes in the Wine Advocate. $32.95 88

2004 Chablis Côte de Léchet – Domaine Pommier (1er Cru)
Less buttery oak than the Beauroy (above), more flinty mineral, green apple acidity and a slightly bitter nutty finish. I agree a little more with the Wine Advocate score of 91 here, but I’m not sure what “liquefied stones” taste like. This wine comes from the same vineyard as the first Chablis by Bernard Defaix. $32.95 89

2005 Chablis Le Clos – Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils (Grand Cru)
It’s lightly oaked and smokey, with hazelnut, apple and light citrus elements. It has plenty of weight giving it good mouthfeel. Nice balance. $59.95 90

2002 Chablis Bougros – Domaine de Vauroux (Grand Cru)
Thankfully this Chablis is not overly oaked and has interestingly fruity (apricot) and smoky notes. Very well balanced with great mouthfeel and acidity. $46.95 91

Côte de Beaune
It isn’t as blessed with as many Grand Crus as the Côte de Nuits (only one), but it doesn’t mean there aren’t good wines to be found. I certainly wasn’t disappointed. On average the wines of Beaune are rounder and less robust than those from Nuits.

2004 Beaune Les Vignes Franches - Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils (1er Cru)
This wine is redolent with cherry, earth and a pleasant smokiness. There is an apple cider like note on the nose to me, as well as a few green notes that I don’t like, but overall not bad. Rated 90 on Burghound ‘subtle earth…cherry infused’ – I agree. $63.95 88

2004 Beaune Bressandes - Domaine Albert Morot (1er Cru)
Some Macintosh apple, a little green, nothing that really distinguishes it from the other wines. I think it needs at least 2 years to settle. $49.95 88

2003 Beaune La Montée Rouge - Domaine de la Vougeraie (1er Cru)
It has great weight yet it almost evapourates off the tongue leaving flavours of cherry and well integrated smoky oak. After the tasting I found out that it got a 91 form the Toronto Star ‘Smokey purity’ and 91 from Wine Spectator ‘round and fleshy…like silk...black cherry’. I agree. $44.95 90

2004 Beaune Clos de la Mousse - Bouchard Père & (1er Cru)
Quite a hefty wine with plum, raspberry, blueberry and pomegranate fruit make for a heady slightly perfumed aroma (I love that Pinot perfume). I wish I could air it out and see how it develops. Not terribly complex right now but it should develop nicely in the next 3 years. Rated a 90 in the Toronto Star. $45.95 88-91 (depending on how it ages)

2004 Beaune Clos Saint-Landry - Bouchard Père & (1er Cru)
(White wine.) The oak is a little too much despite what the representative says about it being balanced (it doesn’t have enough acid to manage the oak). Golden Delicious apple notes. It’s simple (certainly not properly reflected in the price). $54.95 88

2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot - Château de Sully (1er Cru)
(White wine.) Nice toasty (not in an overly oaked way) and floral aromas, but it’s a little overdone on the sweet fruit and finishes a touch hot. With a little more balance it would be better, but who am I to say? Some tasters more familiar with Chassagne-Montrachet thought it wasn’t bad so don’t take my word alone. $74.95 88

2004 Corton Les Bressandes - Domaine Prince Florent de Merode (Grand Cru)
A little green/vegetal for me but still nice since there are solid beetroot, loam/earth, and sweet strawberry elements to carry it through. A silky mouth feel and long finish with lingering plum complete the package. If the greenness dissipated with age I would improve the score. 90 from Burghound, Meadows notes it has less mineral and more earth than usual. Price is decent for a Grand. $65.95 89+

2003 Volnay Santenots - Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils (1er Cru)
I learned that Volnay Santenots actually lies in neighbouring Meursault’s boundries, but Meursault is only allowed to make whites (by AC rules), so reds get labeled as Les Santenots. Trivia aside, this wine is has sweet cherry and plum in a ripe but still elegant package. It is elegant like the Brouillards, also from Glantenay (below), but has a bit more extract. There is a hint of sweetness, prune and heat from the warm vintage but this doesn’t detract from the overall impression. The finish is long. $59.95 91+

2004 Volnay Brouillards - Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils (1er Cru)
Rounded and loaded with Pinot perfume of cherry and beetroot. There is a balance of fruit and earth that is quite nice. It’s elegant and feminine just like I’ve heard Volnay described (perhaps a stereotype, but its true here). Quite seductive! $59.95 90

Côte de Nuits
This part of the Côte d’Or is home to the best Pinot Noir in the world. The best wines are big and of unparalleled depth. The highly coveted wines made by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti come from here (my ultimate wine goal is to try one of these some day).

2004 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes - Domaines François Labet Château de la Tour (Grand Cru)
This was one of only two Grand Cru reds available for tasting so I had high hopes for it. Unfortunately, it was probably the largest let down of the evening. I’ve since read that Clos Vougeot is one of the largest Grand Crus and can vary a lot in quality with the best producers being at the top of the slope. It smells lightly of canned vegetables and something herbaceous (to me it’s definitely dill but the guy doing the pouring didn’t think so). There is some light oak and red fruit to save this one somewhat. It has some structure for aging, so maybe this one will improve in time? The price in out of whack. $149.95 86

2002 Morey-Saint-Denis - Maison Joseph Drouhin
This is quite nice with light sandalwood and spice (cloves, licorice), followed by lower notes of cherry and earth. A slightly sweet vanilla and coffee edge complete the profile. More subdued than the Gevrey-Chambertin by Drouhin. For some reason it didn’t impact me very much, but this was later in the tasting. $55.95 88

2004 Morey-Saint-Denis Chenevery - Grands Vins de Bourgogne Alain Jeanniard (1er Cru)
A full and brawny wine that needs a few years in the cellar (it would also benefit from some time in the glass). Raspberry and red fruits. It’s good but not a standout. $69.95 89

2003 Gevrey-Chambertin - Maison Joseph Drouhin
When tasted back to back with the Morey-Saint-Denis of the same producer it comes across as fuller with more tannins, but also a little coarser. The heat of the vintage certainly shows in the riper fruit (faintly pruney, not overripe though). It is a masculine wine with a sweet edge. $60.15 89+

2004 Chambolle-Musigny Vieille Vigne - Domaine Pierre Naigeon (1er Cru)
Chambolle-Musigny is sometimes referred to as the Volnay of the Côte de Nuits, and I’d have to say that out of all the wines from the Nuits I tried it was the most Volnay like (silky, feminine). This wine was a highlight of the evening for me, it had huge weight in the mouth for a Pinot, it was silky and almost too thick and mouth coating. It coated the mouth with a perfume of earthy beets and ripe black cherry. Despite the weight it didn’t come across as off balance. Other tasters were quite impressed with this one too. $69.95 92

Côte Châlonnaise
Just south of the Côte d’Or this region has five AC villages, of which Rully is one.

2005 Rully – Maison Pierre André Château de Corton André

Definitely different than what I had all evening, it’s very ripe and a little candied (maple syrup). Peach, slight tropical fruit with some balancing acid, but not to my tastes though. $29.95 87

Bourgogne
Simple, less expensive wines from all over the region.

2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir - Domaine Parent
This wine offers good value in a field of mostly over priced wines. Perfumed with spicy plum and a little mustiness this wine had a medium body for a Pinot. If you want a taste of Burgundy but without the financial damage consider this wine. $19.95 88

2006 Year End Wines

2007-01-21T02:57:00.000-05:00

Over the 2006 Christmas season I had a few nice wines which I’ll share in this post. Nothing too over the top here, just tasty decently priced wines.

2004 'Bushvine' Grenache – Yalumba
At first I get lovely aromas of strawberry and a little raspberry with some spicy elements of vanilla bean and cloves. Nice firm tannins and a long finish with a touch of chocolate. After some time in the glass the spicy accents come out more, as well as some gamey/bacon hints. 91 from Wine Spectator. A sturdy wine for hearty meals. $19.95 90

2005 Pinot Gris – Grove Mill
This was a little riper than I would have liked, but still quite expressive. Some pear/melon that you might expect, but tropical aromas of passion fruit and ripe peach dominate the nose. There is a little spice and acid to balance it somewhat. Some people enjoyed this, but it wasn’t my preference. $19.95 87

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Raymond
Very well executed; great balance! Very ripe plum and black cherries, caramel and a hint of pepper from the barrel toasting. It reminds me of Black Forest cake. Very fine polished tannins add to the gulpability of this wine. It could stand up to Cabs that are more expensive; I would go as far as to say the 2003 Ornellaia which retails at $139.95 isn’t that much better. It was rated 90 by Wine Enthusiast, which I think is rather conservative. $31.95 92

2005 Sauvignon Blanc – Dog Point
It is very crisp and zippy with gooseberry, passion fruit, and a little orange note in there too. Exactly what you’d expect from a good NZ Sauv. Passion fruit dominates the palate with the excellent acidity begging for some food. I agree with the Wine Spectator rating of 91. $19.95 91

2003 ‘Cosecha’ Crianza – Condado de Haza
This tasty wine comes from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. It has a distinctly Spanish Old World character to it with a medicinal slightly cherry, sour plum, and cedar/sandalwood profile. Rugged tannins with woody chocolate accents add depth. International Wine Cellar gives it a 90, which is fair but the description makes it sound like something it’s not (at least to me). $24.95 89+

2004 Gewürztraminer Reserve – Pelee Island Winery
This Gewürz is clean with good weight, and a little mineral with rose petal and lychee nut on the nose. The lychee is more like longan (a fruit related to lychee) in taste with Turkish Delight candy. A good example of this varietal in Ontario. $14.95 89

2002 Cahors – Château de Haute-Serre
Rich nose of ripe red fruit, vanilla, chocolate and a hint of cedar. A very gulpable Malbec in an almost more New World style. approx. $18 89

2002 Saint-Emillion – Christian Moueix
Lighter in body than I was expecting, with sour cherry, plum, slight mineral, and a nice bay leaf accent. Healthy tannins and finish, but definitely not in the same style as the Cahors above. 4/5 from Wine Access. $11.45 for 375mL 88