Dining out; just going out of the house period.
Quarantine has definitely given me time to reflect on how special an evening out really is—especially one like this. After months of watching the city go quiet from a distance, patience and diligence finally made way for Chicago to slowly reopen its doors and Blake and I to carefully venture in. The warm summer months are where this city really shines on a “normal” year, but the mandatory al-fresco dining as part of the initial relaunch of businesses had almost made it better. Well at least as romantic and European as it could possibly feel while wearing a mask and keeping a distance of a minimum of six feet. Even though it has been more than ten years since Blake and I worked in the industry, we watched and felt the sadness as countless restaurants and their staffs struggled to survive, many closing their doors after years of thriving. We also witnessed and happily participated in chefs and owners finding a new creativity in how they reach their patrons; in elaborate takeout offerings, cocktails to go, and fun pop ups that brought delight to many in an otherwise dismal and scary time. Even as I write this, the feeling washes over me. Dining out or dining in, preparing and sharing a meal, I see the communal table and join all of the guests who look forward to pulling up a chair in its community.

Chef Grant Achatz has been no exception during these months of the pandemic and is in fact showing us again how exceptional he truly is. His ability to look at a challenge as just that and then adapt, conquer and methodically execute such that no one would ever question it is what makes him so awe-inspiring (yes, I also fangirl this man). Chef Achatz’s ingenuity has taken him from bringing the best restaurant in the world to life, a three-hour long dining experiences with meals plated by tweezers and balloons made of green apple bubble gum, to putting out hands down the best takeout we have ever had. So when the stars aligned, Chicago reopened-ish, and the Alinea Group announced AIR, Blake and his trigger finger were in for the win. AIR: Alinea in Residence is a pop up of Chef Achatz’s world revered Three Michelin Star rated restaurant, Alinea, relocated to the rooftop of Morgan’s on Fulton across from his other restaurants and cocktail forward ventures: Next, Roister, St. Clair Supper Club, The Aviary, and The Office. As I look through the photos that I took that evening and relive each course, I am reminded again of how incredible it is to just pick up a restaurant of this nature and put it somewhere else in a matter of months. It takes most people years to do the same. I hope you can feel my joy through the images and descriptions as I promise you it was pouring out at every course.

THE PRE-COURSE CONCOURSE

I loved that at the moment we walked through the door we were blasted with a vanilla fog reminiscent of a high school dance. It was completely disorienting and did in fact help me to forget “place” and remind me of the importance of “experience.” After fumbling through a narrow corridor and prior to going up to the roof, we were greeted near an elevator in a private pre-course reception. The host laid out a platter consisting of a single bite of coconut, raspberry, and Szechuan peppercorn and an accompanying Absinthe sip playing well into the daze of arrival before ushering us on.

FIRST COURSE AND ITS CRISPY FRIENDS

As to be expected, we floated off the elevator and were guided to our table in a way that you know is rehearsed to perfection; a space divided by moveable walls pulled off separation disguised in intimacy. As we sat in our spot in this well-planned puzzle, it was hard to decide if you should first look up to the tented cover glowing from long linear light tubes (used in the original Alinea before its renovation) coined by Chef as his “Circus in the sky,” or the table already giving off sweet scents from the Japanese Ayu cooking on a Konro grill (and now normalized hand sanitizer accompaniment). The Ayu, or sweetfish, has a unique fruity flavor and the aroma is confusing and wonderful at the same time. The AIR service team has also adapted to their new environment, shedding the slim-fit suited attire of the Halsted location for casual wear. While not missing a beat on professionalism, their attitude exudes the shared need to just enjoy this moment. And so we do! The Ayu is removed from the grill and placed in a bowl of edible flowers, fresh cress, and sweet potato dumplings. To accompany the sweetfish, two additional “sidecars” are placed on the table: a fried frog leg in a spicy shiso mayonnaise and a crisp heart of lettuce with compressed Asian pear and a lemony herb sprig. Sweet, salty, spicy, refreshing, herbaceous and rich - land and sea all at once as they seemingly were meant to be. I would eat those frog legs every damn day. I’m lost in the food which is nothing new, and then I’m snapped back to the present as the sommelier begins to pour our initial tasting. Of course they nailed it. The first plates were paired with a 2017 Arnaud Ente Bourgogne from Burgundy. While bearing all of the notes of a perfect buttery Chardonnay, it had a crispness which presented nicely against the spectrum of flavors and textures in the first few bites offered—this coming from the girl who always grimaces at Chardonnay. I clearly need to keep my mouth shut. With only four hectares and four people working the vineyards, this wine is considered a rare find. So hard in fact that I could only find one place in the US that was selling a 2015 and no website for the vineyard as far as I can tell.

CHIM CHIM CHI-REE - LET'S DIVE INTO TWO AND THREE

I really was loving his use of edible flowers and then you throw in a little gold; it actually is hard to eat things that are this beautiful. Our next plate was saffron and salt cured scallops with marigolds, melons and a housemade Tiger’s milk of scallop, lime and lemon with gold leaf flakes all on a bed of crushed ice (a mouthful in more ways than one). As is part of his fame, everything down to the serving ware and plates are typically created as part of the overall recipe. Both the scallop shell and the prawn head of the third course were made by Chicago-based glass studio, Ignite Glass, as were many of the other pieces throughout the evening. I liken it to how Bert in Mary Poppins chalked so immersively that you literally could dive in. As we are swimming in this Achatz ocean, we glide from the luscious scallop of the second course into the velvety prawn of the third. Flavor saturated and thickened prawn stock is piped into the glass head so that you can have the joy of sucking it out and accompanied by compressed persian cucumbers, peppercorn puree, white sesame, miso, tofu, yuzu and mustard flowers. Paired with both dishes was the Kontecki “Pearls of Simplicity” Junmai Daiginjos—a light, crisp sake with notes of apples and pears.

THE CRAZY TOMATO-WATERMELON COURSE

So, this was the course that I had seen a lot of press about prior to our arrival. There was a time when I couldn’t help but research our upcoming reservations and I am quite pleased with how I have trained myself to be surprised. If you know me, you know that this is an achievement in self-discipline that I normally just. . .can’t. . .do. Who doesn’t love a trick of the eye and tongue? Here, Achatz and his team whole-roast a watermelon for at least 18 hours, the flesh cooking inside itself. That’s right—the image above of an airy paper-thin charred shell tapped to crack and remove a meaty center was just the day before a hefty green striped fruity beast. Most of its sugar evaporates and it takes on a meaty, ahi-like texture. The flesh is complimented by local tomatoes, nicoise olive puree and cilantro seeds. A reduction of the watermelon liquid, slightly sweetened, glazes the dish and leaves you doing the double take a few times over until it’s gone. This course was paired with the 2017 “Angelicall” Pinot Noir Rosé from Antica Terra. This one was very unique as its called a Rosé but really seemed more like a dark colored, light in body Pinot Noir, floral notes on the nose with cherries on the palette. Like the watermelon, it hangs with its foot in two places and you sort of love it. Currently, only available to wine members as best I can tell, this is getting added to the April Williamette trip that we had to postpone until. . .some date in the future I guess, I hope it’s soon.

WHY CAN’T ALL BBQS BE LIKE THIS COURSE

I admit that I love the artistry of fancy food, but what I crush on more is when fancy dances on the other side of the tracks gets a little dirty and all it wants is to just taste good. The next two courses were just the perfect “damn good food” break from the mind altering watermelon dish. The Alinea team collaborated with Hewn Bakery, a favorite of Blake’s and mine when we lived in Evanston. For AIR’s menu, the bakery produced laminated morning buns with marcona almonds. The buttery delicate buns made for the ideal Spanish vessel for shaved smoked iberico ham, grilled peaches, tomato and smoked mayonnaise. You literally can’t imagine a better pork slider. Paired with the 1997 Nikolaihof “Vinothek” Riesling, a highly regarded version of the style—warm baked honey apples with a palette that is quite the contrary - dry and crisp. This is one that Blake was talking about for the rest of the evening, next day and day after. I couldn’t shut up about the next course. All I can say is that GRILLED CORN ICE CREAM should be in every store, in every ice cream shop, put it everywhere so that I can have it all of the time. We each received the soft serve with a different topping; I had sherry wine gummies and a bit of shaved Australian black truffle, and Blake’s was topped with smoked bacon bits. If the meal had ended here, I would have left fulfilled and enlightened and drunk on corn ice cream. And yet, they had more in store for us by balancing the sweetness with another eye-opening Chardonnay. The 2009 Paul Pernot Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Chardonnay. As the most prestigious production of the winery, the wine sees barely used new oak and is bottled early to avoid any oakiness in flavor. It’s known to only get better with age yet maintain a very elegant and light balance. Take me back to that party that straddles the tracks anytime!

EIGHTH AND NINTH (THE ONE WHERE THEY PUT CAVIAR ON THE PEDESTAL IT DESERVES)

Golden Osetra Caviar rests in a glass walnut shell of toasted walnut custard. We are guided to remove the shell and savor the two together with the provided pearl spoon. Just when I think we had reached the pinnacle, they mention the shooter of chilled sweet onion soup resting in the base and that’s when we ascend. I really can’t tell if I am drunk on the food or wine at this point, but I don’t want to get off this train anytime soon. Luckily when we are brought back down to earth we are met with morels and truffles. Oh, and did I mention the Champagne? 2010 Pierre Peters L'Etonnant Monsieur Victor Edition MK10 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, hailing from a vineyard producing Champagne for over 100 years, and yet this particular Champagne goes against the historical single vineyard, single vintage production and is a blend of the best of their best. Extremely limited in its production, this “family” wine has labels adorned with their son Victor’s artwork. Bold for bubbles and definitely special.

TENTH - PRETTY PLATE PLEASE

Everything about this plate was just beautiful and vibrant. . .and I mean that about the food, too. Something about how it all came together was like the actual server came to life taking on its third dimension in front our eyes, and where porcelain stopped and potato started was honestly hard to tell. Peruvian inspired (another drop in the bucket list for a trip to Peru) and two-parted, this course takes wagyu to the next level. On one side of the plate is Wagyu ribeye, a potato and rice “french fry”, adorned in sauces of ribeye reduction, a yellow hot pepper emulsion called Aji Amarillo, liquified black mint paste also known as haucatay, and an apricot and mango “ketchup” with Pisco compressed charred tomatoes nestled alongside the ribeye. Emerging from the other half is a traditional skewer made of wagyu beef hearts, tongue, baby corn and artichokes drizzled in sunchoke puree and bone marrow, all set on delicate injera. The contents of the skewer were slid off into the airy flatbread and ate like a wrap. So many things going on here, so many good things! Blake’s eyes lit up when the sommelier brought over the pairing for our last savory dish of the evening. He had read about Sine Qua Non several months earlier, searched for bottles and had scored a few but the first time we were actually tasting it was at dinner this evening. It was that moment where you are both excited and a little nervous at the same time, hoping it lived up to its hype. Yes, yes it did! The 2010 Sine Qua Non “Five Shooter” Syrah was sexy as hell; brazen and forward, take no prisoners bold. Deep dark fruit and spicy pepper. We will definitely be letting this one open up a solid 24 hours before drinking it at home. Bullseye baby.

BEAUTY IS IN THE BALANCE

The AIR team definitely knew the rollercoaster they were bringing us on; and after the big flavors of the preceding course, something to calm and cool the senses was needed to help us down. As bold as everything was about the Peruvian course, the delicate counterpoint of the palette cleanser created a tension which eased us to relaxation in a truly masterful way. A rose flower pom-pom, simple strawberries and halved lychee on a bed of crushed ice were exactly what Dr. Achatz ordered.

THE ARTIST TAKES A BOW

There has to be a signature moment for a signature restaurant. I was as tickled by this presentation tonight as I was the first time we dined at Alinea and when we recreated it at home for the restaurant’s 15th anniversary takeout menu. Done table-side, sauces of all sorts, stone fruits, nuts and bits, and a sharp cheddar meringue pulverized at the end. Who doesn’t want to end a meal free of the restrictions of plates, and while they leave you with a spoon, no one is stopping you from licking the table either. Refined and freeing at the same time. And fun. The elegant and refined 1988 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes 1er Cru Supérieur seems to only add to invitation to let go and just enjoy. Honey, vanilla, and sweet melon notes to sip on as we end a most perfect night. The entire evening, the experience, the piercing in the dark cloud of a pandemic, the moments of pure joy and appreciation, are bits of treasure that I am humbled to be able to take home with me. This “Circus in the Sky” will be one in my dreams for many months to come.

QUICK LINKS

• BOOK A TABLE AT AIR:ALINEA IN RESIDENCE

• 2015 ARNAUD ENTE BORGOGNE FROM BURGUNDY (2017 NOT AVAILABLE)

• IGNITE GLASS STUDIO

• KONTECKI “PEARLS OF SIMPLICITY” JUNMAI DAIGINJOS

• 2017 “ANGELICALL” PINOT NOIR ROSE FROM ANTICA TERRA

• HEWN BAKERY

• 1997 NIKOLAIHOF “VINOTHEK” RIESLING

• 2009 PAUL PERNOT BIENVENUES-BATARD-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU CHARDONNAY

• 2010 PIERRE PETERS L'ETONNANT MONSIEUR VICTOR EDITION MK10 BLANC DE BLANC GRAND CRU

• 2010 SINE QUA NON “FIVE SHOOTER” SYRAH

• CHATEAU D’YQUEM SAUTERNES 1ER CRU SUPERIOR

These past few months have been a blur. I looked up one day and realized that I’d taken an unintentional hiatus from writing (although definitely not from drinking). After almost 40 days of “shelter-in-place,” I found myself drifting back to the trip that Blake and I took to Italy in October. We have been very lucky to visit Italy almost every other year since we became engaged and Blake went to get his Masters just north of Venice. Thanks to not only our love of all of the fruits of this country but also the amazing people we became friends with (more like family) and have kept in touch with over the years, the country almost feels like home. They’ve been our “travel-to” and “travel-with” buddies; and, as I sit looking out of my bedroom window and the trees still yet to bud, I am anxious to be back with them. Who knows what the future will hold and how any of our ability to travel will be affected in the future, but if you can and definitely if you have not yet—please put Italy on the top of your list. Their economy stands on tourism and now, more than ever, they will need our help to rise again. If nothing else—dive into our most recent travels and be inspired to put it in your must-dos and maybe even order a bottle or a case of wine to hold you over.

I’ll use future posts to go through the wines as we open them here at home, but in the meantime, I hope you enjoy the vistas, wine inspiration and food porn.

***Not all captions may show up on mobile devices. Check out this post on an iPad or home computer for even more details on the photos below.

First, we drank wine. . .and ate.

Our first stop was for lunch and a tasting at the most beautiful estate turned winery and ristorante, Castello di Albola, in Radda-in-Chianti. We also learned that the Zonin family lives here part of the time and so besides the cases of wine we took away, I have an additional goal to become the friends they invite to come and stay. Heck, they should just ask us to move in.

Castello Di Albola

Castello Di Albola

Castello Di Albola

Buy it here

Castello Di Albola

Traditional meal in Tuscany

The most amazing, not-too-sweet, cake traditionally made during harvest season every year. Similar recipe found here

A little sweet with our harvest cake

Wine available through winery

It smelled sooooo good! Castello Di Albola

The part where I “fan-girled” Dario Cecchini

And we ate a lot of meat! I have long been a fan of Netflix’s Chef’s Table and one episode in particular caught me by the heart-strings and the stomach. Dario Cecchini is an eighth-generation butcher whose warm “come-sit-at-table” persona was not only matched in person but magnified. Sitting in Highland Park on my sofa, during this past year, I fell in love with this man and how he reminded me of my father and grandfather and every wonderful person I have met in Italy. It’s about passion and the seemingly cultural foundation to share with others and I could go on and on. Dario’s butcher shop and restaurant upstairs Antica Macelleria Cecchini is just down a small street off of a windy pass-through Panzano, but the red and white striped facade is hard to miss. Sure enough, he’s right there working behind the counter during the day and passing out little glasses of wine as it turns to the dinner hour. There are two seatings at both lunch and dinner where you sit side by side with friends new and old in a family-style extension of what feels like Dario’s home kitchen. You will find yourself feasting on all things carne and an almost comical side of raw veggies to dip in what is referred to as Chianti Butter (lardo mixed with fennel pollen, garlic, pepper and rosemary). Wine is BYO, full bellies come free, the wheelbarrow to roll you home does not.

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

In all of his glory - I wanted to give him a hug.

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

A morning in Siena

Ristorante Tar-Tufo

Just coming off of Black Truffle season (June to September), we were lucky to still get treated to a dreamy lunch highlighting truffles, with truffles, and then truffles on top. Ristorante Tar-Tufo

Ristorante Tar-Tufo

Ristorante Tar-Tufo

Ristorante Tar-Tufo

Ristorante Tar-Tufo

And an afternoon in Montalcino

In search of fantastic Brunellos, we made our way to the town of Montalcino. The vineyards surrounding the town not too far from Siena produce this big daddy of a wine—can sit for a bit and still pack a full-bodied punch. We had to make a stop at one of Blake’s favorites, Casanova di Neri. I was so engrossed in our tasting that I only managed a photo of the exterior on our way in and the beautiful bathrooms on our way out! If you make your way into town, I highly recommend a stop at Enoteca Di Piazza for a pay as you go wine flight on a “wine card.” The owners know their Brunellos and its a great way to try all that the region has to offer (plus it’s an easy place to ship home mixed cases of the ones you love).

Casanova di Neri’s Tenuta Nuova consistently sits in the high 90s in wine reviews across the board and its Cerretalto is considered a collector’s item for many.

Aren’t they beautiful, though?

where Brunello is king and they shout it from the rooftops

Just one of the walls of wine you can sample with your wine card…and we did.

Enoteca di Piazza

One of my two favorites that I tried at the EnotecaBuy it here

My other favorite. Buy it here

In search of the great IGTs

The third day of our adventure was all about making our way to Bolgheri—the heart of the Super Tuscans/IGTs. I posted late last year on the grandaddy of them all, Sassicaia, and this was the same trip where we saw the storied tree-lined roads and saw it’s famed winery from the outside (private tastings on but crossing my fingers for next time). This is also where we trekked to see and undoubtedly fell in love with Ornellaia.

Sassicaia

Enoteca San Guido

Owned by the Frescobaldi family founded by Marchese Lodovico Antinori in the early 80s. These big wine names are harvesting and bottling some truly special wines. Ornellaia Winery

Ornellaia

Ornellaia. Most famous one to try is it it namesake Ornellaia.

After all of that wine, we needed sustenance. This was a gem of a find we were recommended at Ornellaia. It did not dissapoint AT ALL. Locanda dell'Aioncino

Locanda dell'Aioncino

Locanda dell'Aioncino

Locanda dell'Aioncino

Polenta is underleveraged here in the US in my opinion. I could eat it every night.Locanda dell'Aioncino

Enjoying Florence

Our home base for most of the week was in Florence, and I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention my favorite city in Italy. It’s small enough to be easily navigable, full of architecture and history (hello Uffizi!), and the food, oh the food!

View of Florence from Piazza Michelangelo

from Piazza Michelangelo

I could have put in a thousand photos of buildings, I will least leave you with the most famous.

Smoked Negroni at the Picteau Cocktail Bar at Hotel Lungarno

What goes perfectly with a negroni, a view like this. Taken from the veranda at Hotel Lungarno. Stay there, seriously.

Locale Firenze

Locale Firenze is built in the once courtyard of a residence dating back to the 1200s. Owned by several families, this urban oasis is something to be seen and wait until you see the food.

I wish that I had gotten a photo of the cocktail menu. It comes out like a small handbook to Italian gestures and for every flick of the wrist, there is a handcrafted drink that goes with it. Pardon us if we skip the wine tonight to try as many as possible!

Almost too pretty to eat, but we did.

If you ask the host, they will give you a tour of the lower level which includes many rooms dating back to the 1200s and 1500s now used for private dining or food and drink preparation

The kind of walk home that you don’t want to end

When in Chianti, you Chianti

Several years ago, on my first trip to Florence with Blake, we found the most amazing tour guides. I feel weird even calling Christian and Azzura tour guides, they quickly became friends who just wanted to show us what they love. They own Viaggi D’Ambra and truly tailor your visit. In their wine tasting offering, I would expect to see small, family-owned operations, like Altiero, where you are treated like you belong, have meaningful conversation with the winemakers and are afforded the opportunity to appreciate what makes Tuscany so special. I’ve introduced them to several friends back in the States who have arranged and personally guided them on trips all across Italy, all whom have returned with a love of the country that you can only find if you are taken by the hand and shown by a local. They are in the process of putting up pre-planned trip options on Viator, but you can always reach out to them directly via website to set up a personalized experience.

Altiero Winery view. Home of wonderful people making very special small production Chianti Classico, Riserva, Rosso, and some new test vintages. Italy has been struck hard this year with more than COVID-19. A crippling plant bacterial disease has reduced olive oil production significantly and many families are only able to produce enough for themselves. BUT if you are ever given the chance to purchase any of the Altiero Olive Oil—DO IT—it’s the best I’ve ever had.

This is not only the view from the winery but also from Paul and Samuela’s home.

Azienda Agricola Altiero

I was too busy enjoying our hosts company and eating the homemade lunch they provided to take a photo. I especially relished in Samuela’s jams she makes off of fruits and herbs she harvests on their land.

This is not only their livelihood but clearly their love. This level of intimacy during a wine tasting cannot be replicated.

Took a quick stop into a 200 year old Butcher shop and Salumeria in Greve in Chianti. My family’s grocery stores were the first in the area of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where I grew to offer meat freshly butchered from our farm almost 100 years ago. Let’s just say we were ahead of the curve on “farm to table.”

We ended our trip with some award winning small production IGTs from I Balzini.

2012 I Balzini Black Label IGT

As we look forward with uncertainty in the coming months, add these places and people to your bucket list. If we’ve learned anything, the cliche saying “Carpe Diem” is hitting home for a lot of us. So, when you are given the chance to go somewhere new and experience something you’ve always dreamed about, taste all of the wine, truffles and olive oil that you can. Seize the day and savor it!

Quick Links

• Travel Guides, CHRISTIAN AND AZZURA @ Viaggi D’Ambra OR EMAIL

• Chianti

  • Castello DI Albola

  • Azienda AGRICOLA Altiero

  • I Balzini

• Brunello

  • Casanova Di Neri

  • Enoteca di Piazza

• IGT

  • Sassicaia

  • Ornellaia

  • Le Macchiole

• Restaurants, places to eat& drink

  • Antica Macelleria Cecchini

  • Ristorante Tar-Tufo

  • Picteau Bar at Hotel Lungarno

  • Locale Firenze

  • Loccanda Dell'Aioncino

  • Antica Macelleria Falorni

Blake had the ingenious idea for a new series of blog posts and I convinced (not that much persuasion actually involved) a few of my friends to partake in the adventure with me.

The Challenge:

1. Select three wines of the same varietal from the same region

2. One of each wine needs to fall into the categories of $15 and under, $20-$30, and under $100.

3. I also have to taste, and therefore, be blind on the purchase

The first task was to figure out a way to go and buy the wine without actually knowing what I was getting. Luckily for me, I’ve made fast friends with the manager at our favorite local wine and spirits chain, Binny’s, in Glencoe, IL. I understand that this means I have to be in the store often enough to be recognized, but let’s just chalk that up to purposes of this blog and that the same basic boss rule applies here as it did in my earlier post on how to order from a wine menu: be on a first name basis. Admittedly, Jason gave me a crazy look as I handed him my credit card and told him to bag the wine and bury the receipt in the bag so I couldn’t look; I’m pretty sure he also got into the challenge with me. He scoured the aisles and selected three IGTs from the Tuscany region. I did an earlier write-up on the granddaddy of all IGTs, Sassicaia, late last year and was excited to taste more from this rule-breaking wine category. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica and is the third classification of Italian wine after DOC and DOCG (think Chianti and Barolo). It essentially means a wine that does not follow the rules necessary to qualify for the other two categories but still yields a great product. You may also hear them referred to as “Super Tuscans.”

The morning of, I opened up all three bottles of wine giving them ample time to breath. I checked with Jason first to confirm that he recommended based on not knowing what was hiding in the bags. Even though we all went about our work days, the excitement for the “challenge” was palpable. Almost immediately after Lauren and Lacey arrived, I ushered them into the Woffice and we buckled up to drink some wine. I think the girls would agree that there was a lot of almost nervous laughter as we took our first sips. Not that any of us would judge the other, but there is a stigma around wine that price follows taste (a big reason behind even doing the brown bag challenge) and not wanting to be put in a situation where you can’t tell which one you are supposed to think is “best.” Before I get into the tasting itself, let me get onto my soap box and say that I am a firm believer that you should drink wine that you like, not that someone else tells you you should. In writing these posts and sharing what I taste, it isn’t to assume you will too; but, hopefully help you feel more confident about trying and ultimately finding new wines to enjoy. In this case, all three of us were different in our outlook on wine - Lauren and Lacey could definitely teach me a thing or two on beer! In the end, all three of us picked the same one as our favorite… the suspense, right?

Brown Bag #1 $26.99

Brown Bag #2 $89.99

Brown Bag #3 $10.99

And we chose…#3 Villa Graziella Toscana ($10.99)

We agreed on the Pupille Saffredi ($89.99) and Martin Del Nero ($26.99), for next in line. We sometimes had similar reactions to what we tasted and other times picked up completely different notes. Bottom line—we enjoyed them all thoroughly, but the Villa Graziella we all agreed was an easy drinker. We all seemed to gravitate towards it. Now to be fair, in a little post research, the Pupille Saffredi has a recommended drinking window of 2022 to 2040 which means its optimal time to drink is several more years down the road. I wasn’t able to find anything on the other two, but the drinking window is a good thing to keep in mind if you aren’t tasting blind, like we were, and usually solved by a quick google search in the store. This is, of course, just another subjective recommendation, but it can help you narrow options down when making a selection. Bottom line: yummy wine can be found at all price points and IGTs are no exception. I am already excited to do the next one. . .let me know if you have a challenge in mind!

Quick Links

• Binny’s Glencoe and follow Jason’s tasting adventures on his instagram

• Sassicaia post

• Hester & Cook home, gifts, and paper

• 2016 Fattoria Resta Martin Del Nero

• 2016 Le Pupille Saffredi

• 2018 Villa Graziella Toscano Rosso

In my line of work, dining out with customers is part of the weekly norm and nothing can be more daunting than staring down a restaurant wine list—even for me. Whether it is a single page or what appears to be a bound book of every wine on the planet, choosing a wine can be completely overwhelming and most would be quick to defer to literally anyone else at the table. Regardless of if you are out with friends, a partner or a table full of people you hope to impress (read: not completely embarrass yourself), these five easy steps from my years of waiting tables will make this part of your dining experience far less intimidating; and, at minimum, give you the confidence to at least appear as if you’ve got it completely under control.

Before even sitting down at the table, you need to know that it is the sommelier and/or restaurant’s job to create a list with a few well-known favorites but mostly to seek out unique wines that “prove” that they have gone to the care of hand-selecting pairings perfect for your dining experience. This means there is a good chance that no one other than themselves would recognize half, if not more, of what is on the menu. This is also a good reason to push yourself to not immediately go for the one wine you recognize but to lean on the team at the restaurant whose sole job it is to ensure you (and your guests) enjoy yourself. Asking for help does not mean you don’t know what you are doing, in fact, quite the opposite.

To start, you will most likely fall into two different categories: you either know exactly what type/varietal of wine want to enjoy but not the actual bottle or you are completely unsure of where to begin. If you already know the varietal you would like to enjoy, skip to Step 3.

Step 1: Introduce Yourself

The first critical tip before you even sit down, is to choose a seat where it will be easy for the server to look at the menu with you. Don’t do what I did on this particular evening and sit on the inside in the middle of a booth; this makes it near impossible to ask any questions without showing your hand. When the server or sommelier arrives, if they aren’t wearing a nametag, ask their name. Basic Boss Rule: Be on a first-name basis. Ask to see the wine list. Your server will more than likely ask you if you would like help in selecting a wine. Don’t feel rushed. Tell them you would first like to review the wine list and menu. I often use this time to start out with a cocktail so that everyone is enjoying a beverage and has time to look at the food menu.

Step 2: Gather Clues

Take into account the type of restaurant you are at: Italian, a Steakhouse, Mediterranean, etc. The wines you will find on the list typically will already lend themself to what can be appropriately paired with the meal you can expect to have. Peruse the menu and get an idea of what you might have a taste for. If with a group, ask not uncommon questions like, “What are you thinking of having for dinner?” or “What sounds good to you tonight?” You should also ask your dining partner(s) who will be having wine and if they have any preferences. This is both qualities of a friendly and gracious host, and you will also appear to be planning for appropriate pairings.

Now, with a little information in hand on what your fellow dining partners may be eating and maybe even what their favorite wines might be, you are ready to call over your server. *Remember, if you don’t have a lot to go on, that’s okay. They will help.

Step 3: Ask for Help

Start out by describing what you are looking for by providing as many clues as possible. You might say something like, “We really enjoy Pinot Noirs. What would you recommend?” or, even more specific if you saw a wine you recognized and know you enjoy on the menu by saying, “We really loved the [insert name of wine], but would like to try something new. Could you help us select something similar that we might like?” You may not know the type of varietal to select or recognize anything on their list. Instead, you can choose to start out by sharing what everyone is considering, calling out specific menu items you are planning to order or generalizing by saying something to the effect of, “We are all going to be having fish this evening,” or “A few of us will be having seafood, while others are going to have steak or pork.” It’s also possible that everyone is still debating and it’s perfectly acceptable to say, “We aren’t quite sure what we will be having this evening. What would you recommend that we would all enjoy?” Every server always has one or two favorites up their sleeve that are sure-fire crowd pleasers.

Step 4: Point to Keep in Budget

Inevitably, your wine guru will ask what you would like to spend. Unless you are open to any bottle on the list, at any price point, look on the page that you have the menu open to and point to a wine that is in your comfort zone by saying, “I’m looking for a wine in this range.” This solves having to call out a number in front of your guests while still ensuring a bottle of wine is selected for you that you are comfortable purchasing. Keep in mind when selecting the wine and price point, the number of people you have (typically 4-5 glasses per bottle) and if you plan on having more than one.

Step 5: Enjoy

Tips for tasting and enjoying:

• The server will ask you to taste. If they pass you the cork, don’t be surprised if it smells like wine. While you will get some of the bouquet on the cork, I am usually more concerned that it is not dry. Before even tasting the wine, this is an easy way to know if air got into the bottle during aging, often referred to as “corked.” This is rare but can happen.

• If they ask if you would like the wine decanted (poured into a special carafe that helps the wine breathe) they are really telling you that it should be. It’s polite for them to ask and not demand it of you, but take this as a strong suggestion.

• If it’s a red, I would suggest having them pour it for anyone at the table who will be drinking it. Most reds will only taste better even after just having a few minutes more to open up in your glass after sitting in the bottle for years. Your server is most likely not trying to rush you; they are just doing all they can to make sure your selection will meet your liking.

• If you like it, write it down or take a photo of the label. Wine in a restaurant is usually marked up two and a half to three times wholesale costs, so you will be pleasantly surprised when you go to buy it at your local wine store. This will not only help you find a bottle you like next time at the store, but maybe when you go to open up a wine menu on your next night out, you will have another bottle in your repertoire that you recognize.

If you recall, I screwed up on Step 1 and sat in a place where I could barely hear the server, let alone ask questions. So I went with Plan B and picked a favorite that I knew everyone would enjoy. Gibson’s has a great wine list, and I was disappointed that I didn’t try something new. On the other hand, I was not at all bummed about sipping on this bottle of Abstract. This is also one of the cool labels we have on a skate deck in the Woffice.

Quick Links

• Gibson’s Italia

• 2017 Orin Swift Cellars Abstract

• Orin Swift Skate Decks

New Year’s Eve is one of my favorite nights of the year and not for the typical reasons. If I am honest, I don’t usually even make it up to midnight. Blake and I both used to wait tables and this was always the night that you had to work. We didn’t mind putting in the time after seeing what many would spend on a lavish night out where we would come home in the positive. Even after we both moved on to “day jobs,” going out seemed like unnecessary and frankly unenjoyable. Having kids gained us even more excuses as finding a babysitter on NYE is as elusive as a unicorn. We instead started a tradition of what we refer to as “Parent’s Eve;” typically held on the 30th as a staycation in the city complete with a delicious meal and sleeping in and where childcare is still achievable. Before we moved to Highland Park, this was the night I looked forward to most, but when we finally had a house big enough to entertain and lucky enough to have met the most amazing neighbors, it quickly tied with a now annual New Year’s Eve dinner we host at our home (with kids). We start early, all of our friends chip in an appetizer or dessert, kids have a pizza/movie/game bonanza in the basement, and Blake and I do the dinner and of course THE WINE. This year we were traveling up until the holiday and Blake lost his favorite sous chef and best friend to a recent move so we decided to seek out some assistance with the meal. We were incredibly lucky that Molly at Latch Catering was able to squeeze us in. She is always incredibly patient and accommodating and on this night, delivered a feast of all feasts for our family of friends. Molly also brought extra hands to serve and clean giving Blake and I real time to enjoy our friends and the wonderful meal instead of hustling around the kitchen most of the night.

I treasure this evening because it is a time that we sit with a table full of people that we are grateful to have come into our lives, we talk about nothing and everything, and we laugh a lot. I can’t say enough how special it is to have made these connections both for us as adults and for our children who are fostering their own community and network of support. It’s a big feeling and definitely worthy of a toast. Speaking of toasting, we broke into this delicious Le Reve by Domaine Carneros that I got this summer after running the Napa to Sonoma Half Marathon with my best friend (another thing to be grateful for this year).

Somewhere mid-seafood tower, we decided to turn our table into a group of accountability partners and each wrote new years resolutions on our place cards (this may have been the wine talking). We all threw them in a vase that sits in the corner of our dining area and the plan is to open them up at next year’s dinner and see how we’ve done. Personally, if I am lucky enough to have these wonderful people at my table again next year, I’ll be fulfilled. Now, a few days in and fiercely staring down 2020, I do plan to finally address the fact that I am no longer in my 20s and take my health a little more seriously, spend more time focusing on the ones I love, somehow finding and taking a breath a little more often, and I will be drinking more wine.

If I must say, we started off okay on that last goal. Here is all of the wine that we drank:

Sparkling

White

Reds

Quick Links

• Latch Catering

• 2012 Domaine Carneros Le Reve Blanc de Blancs

• NV PDC Cartizze Brut

• Failla Wines

• 2016 Casanova di Neri Irrosso

• 2016 Herman Story Casual Encounters

I am normally someone who CAN NOT wait to decorate for the holidays. Something about cuddling on the couch with the Christmas tree twinkling or coming around our block to see our house lit up with arguably cute (or tacky) illuminated lawn decor just makes me utterly happy. Thanksgiving coming so late in the month this year and traveling out of state for both holidays has made the very short 3 weeks in between seem overwhelming to get myself prepared. As Blake would say, I’ve sort of mailed it in this year. I figured the least I could do was invite some of my favorite people over to boost us into the spirit; add crafting and add wine so that we can get through the crafting.

When I first moved to Highland Park, I found the most incredible florist amidst my daily fall into the Instagram black hole. Kirbey Rogic, who owns The Flower House is a local mom with incredible talent who saw in herself what she was capable of and seized her moment. I can’t be the only one who thinks that 1-800-Flowers and the like is a bit of a racket and have often been disheartened by the cost of what turns out to be a sad display at best. Kirbey’s work is stunning, creative, and exceeds expectations (and the bill) every time. Who better to help us make front-door worthy wreaths and who else would have the patience?

And we did drink wine…and ate lots of cheese. Blake has belonged to the James Gang (the Tobin James wine club) for longer than I have known him and we continue to be loyal members. Located just outside of Paso Robles, Tobin James wines deliver consistently great wines at very good prices. We followed that with another go-to (i.e. we just keep ordering more) - Orin Swift’s Slander. And did I mention cheese?

QUICK LINKS:

• The Flower House

• Tobin James Cellars

• Purchase Tobin James French Camp Vineyard Zinfandel

• Orin Swift Cellars

• Purchase Orin Swift Slander

What better way to practice for Thanksgiving then to do a dry-run with good friends. We had a few things we wanted to put into use including the Traeger Grill that Blake bought when our old gas grill went caput in early spring, Blake’s grandmother’s china and Turkey platter that his mother gifted me, the Kip&Co cutlery that I obsessed over at the Milkweed Inn this summer and Blake bought me for our anniversary, and of course some of our favorite wines. We are fortunate to have friends who also love to cook and the spread was glorious.

When selecting wines for our Friendsgiving, or really for any meal, I wanted to ensure that our main course would get a chance to shine without being overpowered and that we offered a little something for everybody. For me, that means starting with a sparkling and having both white and red on hand. You know your friends best so you’ll want to think ahead for how many bottles of each to plan for. A standard red or white bottle will offer about 5 glasses per bottle (5 oz pours) and a sparkling or champagne can usually stretch to 8 glasses as you typically pour slightly less. If you are confident (like we were on Saturday) that we will go into a second bottle, open it in advance so that you aren’t having to excuse yourself from the table right when the eating and conversation is in full force. This also allows for your red wine to open up (“breath”) a little before serving.

Sparkling

I always love a little bubbles to toast as we sit down but a sparkling wine can also be a great alternate to a cocktail when people arrive and mingle. I was recently in Napa to run the Napa to Sonoma half with my best friend and some of her running pals and had brought home a few bottles of Under the Wire Zinfandel that I was eager to share with Blake. A project between two guys in their late 30s; owner and winemaker of Bedrock Wine Co., Morgan Twain-Peterson and his then friend and colleague Chris Cottrell (now a partner in Bedrock as well), this label was started just eight years ago and gives me hope that Blake and I still have time to run away and start a winery.  Easy to drink, this sparkler has just the right amount of effervescence; it was gone almost as quickly as it was opened.  Wine can be purchased directly by emailing the winery. 

White

Thanksgiving and whites bring on the challenge to find a pair for both the mild flavors of roasted (or smoked in our case) turkey and the more robust sides of caramelized sweet potatoes, stuffing, and gravy. I often fall into the category of someone who shies away from Chardonnays — fearing the overly oaky and butteriness characteristic of most traditional versions of this wine. If you are game to try one, you would not be disappointed with any of the Failla Chardonnays.  We served an elegant and crispy favorite from the Keefer Ranch Vineyard.  If we had not recently run out, we would have also looked to serve a Rose. My personal favorite is the Saintsbury Vincent Vin Gris Pinot Noir Rose.

Red

You have the same considerations in pairing when you go to select a red as you did when selecting a white. A pick for the evening can’t be too meek or overpower. We were feeling the Failla (and also because they never steer us wrong) and selected the Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir. This wine is what made us loyal Failla followers in the first place. Pinots are a great match for your Thanksgiving meal typically offering a well balanced mild fruit base with some earthy undertones.

In an honest moment, we did everything right up until the turkey cooked faster than we anticipated. I would suggest not “warming” for a few hours after its done. We were thankful for a test run! The Traeger is seriously the easiest grill and smoker we have every used—we just need to submit to it.  Recipe can be found here.

I was so excited to use Blake’s grandmothers china and my new cutlery which surprisingly were the perfect pair.  Kip & Co is no longer selling the cutlery but they still have some of the gorgeous serving pieces.

These chargers have been in constant use as a way to dress up or dress down any dinner also “tripling” as a serving platter. I also went on the hunt for napkin rings day-of Thanksgiving and found these little beauties at Crate and Barrel.  They come in a set of 3 and can be used together or separately (and they are on sale for the next two days).

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]]>Friendsgiving and What to Serve This ThursdayTasting NotesWine TastingAMANDA WOODMon, 18 Nov 2019 14:30:00 +0000https://www.thewoffice.co/grape-juice/while-the-men-are-away5d5d5bbb8eaa920001208021:5db5cf5a118b996830fb63c0:5dd1ec7be6fd5c7029712da7

. . . the women will take the kids to a waterpark in Wisconsin. Maybe not the ideal end to that proverb, but the kids and I look forward to this quick getaway to meet my sister and niece every year. November 15 is the open of rifle deer season in Michigan. I grew up in a small town in the Upper Peninsula where this time of year was like a religion for most. With so many kids absent from school; the district used to declare it a holiday. This tradition is shared by men, women and families going to their “deer camp.” Imagine minimalist cabins with bunk rooms, outhouses and maybe running water, if you are lucky, trekking out into the woods to stake out in a blind all day in frigid temperatures in hopes of a chance to get a buck. While my sisters and I made quite a few trips out to camp as kids, mostly to play while my dad would tinker, mow the lawn, or just check-in, hunting camp wasn’t going to be something I felt I missed out on.

This time of year—while my father, uncles, cousins, husband and brother-in-laws go to deer camp— my sister and I have started a tradition of meeting somewhere with our kids for a weekend away. We get some much needed family time and we celebrate my youngest son and niece’s birthdays (don’t get my dad started on why of all weeks of the year we both had kids within days of the start of deer season).

Cozily crammed into a Residence Inn in Green Bay, takeout demolished, and heavy into a game of 5 Second Rule, Jr., it was the perfect time to open up one of my favorites. I fan-girl hard on Dave Phinney, founder and winemaker at Orin Swift. He is known for the big jammy wines that I love most, and the wittiness of his bottles and labels are the kind you won’t forget. Trigger Finger is no exception, delivered in a port wine bottle with the uncle of Orin Swift’s general manager as the “Lone Ranger” featured on the label. Something about the playfulness of this kid reminds me of my dad, too —even though in the process of writing this blog I realized they look nothing alike. I’m going to chalk it up to the time period, mischievous look in all little boys eyes and that just seeing this bottle makes me smile.

Our original hunting camp in Iron River, Michigan. G. Mennon “Soapy” Williams, 41st governor of Michigan is 4th from the left. My great grandfather, Alfredo Angeli, is on the right.

Image courtesty of Jack Deo/Superior View Historic Photography

My dad as a young boy

It’s become my husband’s own tradition every year to bring this 5L of Col Di Sasso to kick off the first night of the season. Paired here with Blake’s version of camp canapes; venison summer sausage and jerky, cheese, ritz crackers and wheat thins.

Sangiovese/Cabernet Blend. Cabernet really pumps up the body, deep cherry flavors and enough spice that it held its own with the venison snacks and my cousin’s homemade hot pepper jam.

3 of the 4 grandkids on their latest trip with their dads and papa to camp “Compobello 2” - the “new” camp.

Continuing the tradition of helping…or at least riding along.

Captions visible on Tablet and Computer. (1) Angeli Hunting Camp; Our original hunting camp in Iron River Michigan. G. Mennon “Soapy” Williams 41st governor of Michigan is 4th from the left. My great grandfather, Alfredo Angeli, is on the right. (2) My dad as young boy (3) It’s become my husband’s own tradition every year to bring this 5L of Col Di Sasso to kick off the first night of the season. Paired here with Blake’s version of camp canapes; venison summer sausage and jerky, cheese, ritz crackers and wheat thins. (4) 2016 Banfi Col Di Sasso Toscana IGT; Sangiovese/Cabernet Blend. Cabernet really pumps up the body, deep cherry flavors and enough spice that it held its own with the venison snacks and my cousin’s homemade hot pepper jam. (5) 3 of the 4 grandkids on their latest trip with their dads and papa to camp “Compobello 2” - the “new” camp. (6) Continuing the tradition of helping…or at least riding along.

8:15 has finally arrived. Kids are in bed after wrapping up a glow-in-the-dark games birthday party for our seven-year-old. My sweats are on, Blake lit the fire and we are about to dive into the newest season of Atypical. It’s as good a night as any to open up a bottle of wine. Tonight we chose a 2004 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia thanks to a little help from CellarTracker: our digital database of wine that essentially tells us what to drink next. An extra special thanks to our good friend, Simone, who gave us this bottle as a wedding gift.

Proclaimed by many as the first Super Tuscan, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted his first vineyards in 1944 on land that his wife inherited in Bolgheri, Italy. He was determined to create a Bourdeaux-style wine instead of the Sangiovese-based wines, typical of the region. Mario found the perfect spot inland but raised above sea level and overlooking the Tyrennhian Sea on similar rocky soil (Sassicaia translates to ‘area of many stones) that you would find on the French region’s left bank. There he planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc—both thrived. After pairing up with the then winemaker for Antinori, Giacomo Tachis, their first commercial vintage was released in 1968. Sassicaia saw a relatively quick rise to success; and, in 1985, Robert Parker gave the winery its first 100 point rating. It consistently rates high year after year well into the 90’s, and many consider it be an investment wine. The 2015 vintage was the #1 wine on Wine Spectator and 2016 got 100 point ratings from Wine Advocate. I’ve often wondered how much politics goes into wine ratings, but I can say from my spot sipping on the sofa last night, it was superb!

A few other nuggets that I think make this wine extra special:

• Giacomo Tachis remained the winemaker until the 2007 vintage; he passed away in 2016. The winery is now run by Mario’s son, Marchese Nicoló Incisa della Rocchetta, and the winemaker is a woman by the name of Graziana Grassini (dream job).

• While Bolgheri recieved its designation (DOC) as a wine-producing region in 1983, in 2013, Sassicaia became the only wine from a single estate to have its own DOC (listed as “Bolgheri-Sassicaia DOC,” a subzone of the Bolgheri DOC).

Blake and I recently went to Bolgheri; it is every bit as beautiful as I imagined.

Tenuta San Guido is not open to the public (invite only), but you can dine at the Osteria on property.

Tenuta San Guido

Tenuta San Guido

Bolgheri’s castle. Above the entrance is the family coat of arms of the ancient noble Gherardesca family. They have owned this castle since 1200.

In the town of Bolgheri

In the town of Bolgheri

Famed cypress lined streets of Bolgheri

It all started when we (I willfully) moved us to the suburbs. The boys were getting bigger, their crap was everywhere and they needed room to move. I needed room for us both to move. You know, typical story - meet in the city, go out all the time, have kids, go out less, start talking about schools and other inevitable adult conversations, grapple with how we will miss the restaurants, the public transportation, the energy, and yet make the jump and move to the burbs. So I moved us…to a wonderful neighborhood, full of kids, with their own “park” (playground) in the back, a basement for the 8 months out of the year playing needs to happen inside in Chicago, and their elementary school just a few blocks away. And I say “I” intentionally, in that Blake was not as ready as I was. It had so many of the good things we were hoping for, but the commute was going to be twice as hard for Blake. While he goes back and forth to the airport more often than not, the hour and a half plus commute to his office in the city was a bit of a sore spot. The house had recently been renovated with the exception of one room.

And so the dream of the WOFFICE began (read wine room/office). What was once an unfinished collector of the things I didn’t know where else to put, would become the office Blake had been dreaming about. Through our shared passion for wine, several trips where we were romanced by a winery, or just a good night out, we had amassed quite a few bottles that needed a home, and Blake’s office was in the open space where the kids played. While Blake didn’t work so well with the kids in the background, he had no doubt he would be just fine in an office made of wine. So, for our 10th anniversary, I took my work home, acting as his designer and project manager to make this dream a reality. I enlisted my college roommate and amazing designer, Brooke Benfield at B2 interior designs to help me keep organized and be my sounding board, giving me great ideas on how to plan for such a small space and still fit so much in. This April, with the help of Matt and his team at Matt Ross Construction, it finally came to life. The desk acts as both a standing desk and a place to serve our friends, and the monitors double as TVs. Yes, the sofa’s name doesn’t lie; it’s a cloud. Oh, and no kids allowed.

We’ve basically moved in.